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Hi, i hope this is the right forum to post my problem.
I have brought up this issue before, but would like to use the new layout to post again.
I'm still having issues with the SWC controls sending a repeat signal (3 repeats) every time one of the SWC buttons are pressed. I have tried apps like CarService and assigned a delay to the key press, but it does not seem to have any effect.
Has anyone had this issue before and how was it resolved? Is this a know issue or am i not setting it up correctly...
does this happen all the time or just during / short time after startup?
Hi @darkalex, this is a continues problem and is not affected by startup or uptime. I have kept my MCU and firmware updated with the hope that a update would fix it.
@kvantum had a similar problem with his SWC.
Posted in: Old Q&A-Thread - This Thread will be split into multiple KB-Thread soon Post #1868
"SWC and CANBUS
Ok so I've been dealing with a problem for some time, but my seller is now stumped, apparently involving an engineer at this point.
Wondering if anyone else experienced the same - I can't be the only one.
I have a KLYDE unit made for a mazda CX-5, and the SWC controls are... strange
Some buttons, when I hit them - get registered as 3 presses. So skipping a song skips 3. Hitting VOL+ increases by 3, etc. Pickup/hangup don't work.
The app for button re-mapping doesn't register any keypresses at all. CANBUS app sees me opening and closing a door. Seller confirmed I got the right decoder for my car, and all the settings are correct, including canbus type in Factory Settings.
Has anyone else experienced such behaviour?"
Oh yea, this issue drove me nuts
Seller/"engineer" couldn't figure it out. I ended up fixing it myself. The problem is with the canbus box.
To fix it you'll need to do some cable splicing.
There are 3 cables going from swc into the stereo - 2 data one return. One data for media and one for Bluetooth controls. You may have 1 data 1 return. It depends on the car.
Each button represents different resistor value. Stereo monitors this resistor value to determine if a button is pressed and which one, depending on resistance read. This is what's supposed to happen with that button learning utility in settings. You may have noticed that it's useless right now.
So, these cables are currently going into the canbus box, which interprets the resistor values and sends a command to android via serial interface, and it does send 3 signals (I monitored the serial port).
The stereo itself has the input cables necessary to interpret the resistor values itself without canbus unit.
My stereo unit has a schematic on top, and those cables are called Key1 & Key2 for data and "Steering wheel ground" for return.
In my case the data wires were just hanging loose, and steering wheel ground was connected to regular ground.
So, I had to figure out which cables to cut going into the canbus box. I happened to have a schematic for my car, but there are ways to figure it out without it. Feel free to post picture of your canbus box, one of the top and one of the cable connector, bonus if you got the full cable connector pic as well. I can help you figure it out.
So, what I've done is cut those cables away from canbus box and connected them directly to stereo. Now all buttons behave properly, and the button learning utility works as well. And since the canbus box is still connected, the door open indicator still works as well.
Also I bought a reverse camera which wouldn't turn on when in reverse gear. I managed to fix that by splicing cables as well.
I only got one picture of the actual work I did.
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I added some connectors so I could easily switch back if I had to, but I never did because everything works great now.
So, if you decide to go through with all of this, feel free to ask questions. Be as detailed as possible describing your set up if it looks different than mine, take lots of pictures, I'll try to help as much as I can.
PS Oh hey, new layout!
Thanks so much @kvantum, this is really awesome news and thanks for the explanation. I'm going to try this out on Saturday and hopefully i wouldn't have to bug you to much.
PS: I'm not able to see the picture you added, but i'm sure i'll manage.
I'll take your advise and document the mod and add to the forum later on, if successful.
I really appreciate the reply and i hope this will reach others that was struggling with this issue.
My specs for reference:
Vehicle: 2010 VW Jetta 5 1.4TSI DSG
Head Unit: KGL
Can you see the picture now?
And I have a correction to make. Looking at the image, I'm realizing that "steering wheel ground" was just going to regular ground.
So on the car end I didn't terminate that cable anywhere. On the stereo end that cable was already spliced into ground (you can see the bundle spliced under my nail in the photo above)
I can see you picture now, thanks!
I have taken some pictures of my setup, but not sure how to upload them (should i upload them somewhere and then post the link or how do you embed them?)
My Key1 & Key2 wires are also hanging loose so i suppose my mod will be similar to yours. I have the plug pinouts for both the head unit and the VW EOM square plug so it should not be to difficult to find the right wire to splice.
Once i figure out how to upload the pics i'll do so (Some guidance here will be appreciated)
Just to add, my CAN BUS does not show any of the car information. No indication of doors that are open and it also does not display any radio/music info in die instrument cluster...
Is there a trick to get this working or should it be working in the first place?
With all of these features not working i'm not actually certain what the Can Bus Box does in my setup.
I don't think there's a way to upload pictures to the forum. I use my web site. If you have dropbox you can put them into your public folder and embed or link. Include your schematic/pinouts too if you want me to confirm.
Canbus box might be responsible for things like dimming trigger when you turn headlights on or reverse camera trigger when in reverse gear. It wasn't in my case, but I've heard of others with such setup. Disconnect it and see if anything stops working.
I don't know of a simple way to get the canbus box to do more than what it does. Same as I don't know how to stop it from sending 3 signals instead of 1. They programmed it, and it's not worth trying to reverse engineer it.
I am however playing around with arduino canbus shield so I can have complete control of the information sent to the stereo. That'll take a while though as it's not really my priority right now.
The CANbus (controller area network bus) is a vehicle bus standard designed to allow devices to communicate with each other without the need of a host computer.
The HU don't come with a CAN bus they have a Decoder Box that tries to interpret signals on the bus for the HU. If you are having problems with the HU not responding correctly either you have the wrong decoder, the HU is set up for the wrong decoder, or that function is not available with aftermarket decoder boxes.
Maybe Contact Rambo @joying. When I original bought my unit they didn't support factory amps. I had to use a PAC decoder. Then he told me that they figured it out and he sent me a new decoder box. After replacing the PAC, all kinds of things started showing up.
What Vehicle, HU?
I have a 2014 Mazda CX-5 with a Klyde HU
My canbus decoder actually says CX-5 on it. Interesting to hear if there's a better decoder out there, I couldn't find anything
@kvantum As you can see i also have the Key1 & Key2 wires that are not connectet. If i understand correctly i must connect the (Brown) Key1 &Key2 wires directly to the CAN + and CAN - (Green) wires on the VW Quad Socket. How do i know which wire to connect to what pin. Eg Key1 -> CAN + and Key2 -> CAN - or vice versa?
Hear are the pictures of my wiring harness, CANBUS Decoder and VW Quadlock Socket as well as the wiring diagrams for the HU and the VW OEM Socket.
Wire to enable or disable CANBUS Power ON control of the HU:
CANBUS Decoder:
Head Unit Wiring Diagram:
Loose Wires [Brake, Amp-Ctrl, Key1 &Key2]:
VW OEM PLUG:
VW OEM PLUG Wiring Diagram:
VW Plug n Play socket:
Wiring Harness:
Hi have a 2010 VW Jetta 5 1.4TSI DSG and a HuiFei/Kei Ge Le [KGL] Head Unit
Ok, bad news.
Looks like your car doesn't supply direct wires to the steering wheel controls.
In my car, I had SWC wires going directly to the stereo.
In your case, SWC send signal to CANBUS, then stereo sniffs the signals from CANBUS, with no SWC cables to the stereo.
Unfortunately, there is no easy/cheap workaround for you. Sorry
Here are some other options I can think of:
-If you don't care about radio and stock mp3 player and instead use aftermarket MP3 player, there's CarService app that's now included with Malaysk's roms. On my request @KeiserSozeyFr included an option to ignore repeated button presses up to x ms (configurable).
Also available here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=53678587&postcount=1179
This was before I was able to figure out the wiring, but I believe the option is still there. Volume will still jump in 3s though.
-Try finding another decoder, or see if SWI-X by pac-audio can do the job
-See if your steering wheel has 2 or 3 cables coming from the SWC module before hitting canbus. To see if you can use them, use a multimeter to measure resistance between those cables (disconnect them first). When pressing a button, you should see changing resistance. If this is the case, then you'll need to connect those to key1+gnd (also key2 if there are 3 cables instead of 2)
-put arduino on the serial interface between canbus decoder and stereo. You can use it to catch the signals from decoder, drop the two repeats, and send single command on to the stereo.
Maybe someone else has better suggestions, but that's what I can think of.
Ah damn, thats unfortunate. Luckily i have not made any changes to the wiring as of yet, just as well.
Thanks for all your input! Much appreciated. I have tried CarService before, but i'll give the new ROM and CS a bash. Maybe just maybe it will work.
Hopefully someone else can assist, but the arduino option sounds like a fun project to explore. Any advise regarding the arduino circuit will be more than welcome.
It's been a while since I've last programmed something...
If you do decide to go the arduino way, I can help out.
It should be fairly simple, with maybe 20 lines of code total.
You can get mini arduino board from ali/ebay for under $5
I would also recommend getting some 2/4-pin male/female connector pairs so that you can easily switch between stock/modified wiring configurations.
Arduino technically has only one serial port, but there's a software serial library that you can use to turn digital pins into more serial ports
For wiring you'll need to cut the two serial cables(TX/RX) between stereo and canbus decoder. Plus you'll need to splice into power + ground to power the arduino(it can take 12V on the VIN pin)
Then serial cables going from canbus box get hooked up to one serial port, from stereo - to another.
I have been reading up on the Arduino option and it looks like most people use this Ardruino Board:
ARD UNO REV3
http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P1424521842
and this shield:
CAN-Bus Shield Microchip MCP2515 CAN controller with MCP2551 CAN transceiver
http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P1865739722
The CAN- and CAN+ connect to the shield and then the shield connects to the ardruino board via the seriel port or pin connections ? Arduino is then connects to a pc via USB to display output and write the code. The interpreted code is then sent via the serial connection/pins to the Rx and Tx inputs on the Head Unit?
Do you by chance know at what bus speed my VW CANBUS runs?
I'm planning to visit the electronics shop on Friday, if it doesn't work out to be to expensive to build. Otherwise i'll try online shops, but will need to figure out exactly what i'll need first.
Have you managed to finish and test your Arduino setup and get it working 100%
@Hein3G I have a 2012 Jetta with a factory amp. The PAC decoder did not allow for SWC but it did turn on the factory Amp. Which is why I harassed Rambo at Joying until they figured out how to turn the Amp on through the CANbus decoder. It cost me $20 in shipping to have them send me the new decoder. It was well worth it.
In the harness they sent me the Key1 and Key2 wires went to the decoder box plug they are not loose. The only loose wires are the Blue power ant., Orange/black ext amp, and the red ACC. My decoder says:
(VW-XZM-03) 18/09/15
For Passat, Sagitar, Tigu, Golf6, Touran, Magotan, Jetta
software: V2.3A (JY)
The decoder they sent you may be the wrong one or outdated. I would contact them before doing anything complicated or expensive.
Hi all,
I am trying to install the above into an Audi A4 which is a canbus vehicle.
I got everything plugged in and it all looked to be working fine but after 2-3 minutes the unit always switches itself off. I have noticed the Canbus adapter always gets very hot as well just before the unit switches off.
Could I have connected something incorrectly for this behaviour to occur?
Thanks
Please be more specific.
Do you have ISO connectors?
The CanBus module should be allready wired to the comnector. It was not? If no, post the wiring diagram received (maybe you feed 12 V in a 5V input?....).
În order to get help post pictures and more info.
Hi. The fitting kit I have used is the following;
http://caraudiosecurity.com/ctkau02-audi-a4-2002-2006-complete-double-din-facia-kit
The Canbus adapter is plugged in via the attachment to the ISO cable.
Let me know if you need any pictures.
Thanks
I'm sure there is no easy way to find the problem.
I would do the following :
First make sure that all pins in all connectors are firmly in their place (see below the example).
Get correct pinout data for all connectors (Car connectors, HU, the adaptor kit and the CanBus module and also the pinout for the old stereo). When searching for the car connectors pinout make sure you find the correct one (year, model, audio system type, etc).
After having all the data you should search for any mismatch (power instead of data, different voltages, etc).
I recomend this beacuase I bumped in a similar problem with my car. I have a Mazda 6 and for the same model and year the car Hu connector differs for the Bose system version and the non Bose version, and the pinout of the adapter and Hu is not taking in consideration this posibility. Therefore I had to cut and reconnect some wires.
And one more thing : when I installed my Hu, some pins slipped out of their slots inside the connectors and my CanBus module was beep-ing constantly and the Hu was not starting at all. I had to use a very thin metal rod to push them back into position (with the connectors plugged in).
Thanks for your help. It turns out a Parrot bluetooth module was installed at some point and they have a good mess with the wiring and piggubacked onto the cars wiring. I am having to use that to power the unit now as it stops it turning off after 3 minutes. My next problem is that I don't have the steering controls option available in the settings menu. Any idea why?
If you are using CanBus you do not need that menu. The Hu has two 5V out and two inputs. If you have non CanBus Swc you need to take the 5V wire, pass it through your Swc and then to the Hu Swc input (the clasic controls usses resistors with different values for each button that atenuates the 5V from the Hu in different values for each button pressed and the Hu read that value through the swv input). So if your 5V wire and Swc input is not connected, you will not have the menu available. Once connected you must first go to factory menu and define each button (see the user manual))
Marmalux said:
If you are using CanBus you do not need that menu. The Hu has two 5V out and two inputs. If you have non CanBus Swc you need to take the 5V wire, pass it through your Swc and then to the Hu Swc input (the clasic controls usses resistors with different values for each button that atenuates the 5V from the Hu in different values for each button pressed and the Hu read that value through the swv input). So if your 5V wire and Swc input is not connected, you will not have the menu available. Once connected you must first go to factory menu and define each button (see the user manual))
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I've attached some pictures to show how the unit is connected to the Canbus adapter.
Key1 5V is connected to its equivalent going to the Canbus adapter.
Key2 5V is as above
GND is as above
Do I have it correct and am I just required to correctly map the buttons now?
Thanks
Still can't get this working.
Should I reset the headunit, update MCU and software or does it look like my wiring is wrong?
Thanks
No one can help you without being there. If you do no have the skills to do it yourself you should go to a electronics service.
As I said, you have to analyze all data. You must get all pin-outs and characteristics for your car.
You must know if your Swc is resistive or Can-bus.
With the car main stereo connectors pinout you will see what you have (resistive Swc, Can-bus wires, external amp signal, etc) and theirs place in the connector.
With the Hu pinout you will know what does the Hu can provide and what pins you should use.
And in your case you have a adapter in the middle, for witch you also need the pinout to make sure that everything is routed correctly.
After you have a clear diagram for your car you must check if fizicaly everything is as it should be.
How to get the pin-outs?
The Hu pinout should be on a sticker on the Hu itself.
For the car connectors you must first decode you vin and get info like year, options, version (usualy a more detailed pinout you find if you search the old stereo pin-out by it's exact make and model).
And for the adapter you must get it from the seller or from the Internet.
You said that before you, someone made modifications to wiring; this is one more reasons to get all informations and make yourself a clear wiring diagram for you to be able to start troubleshooting.
I realy wish I could help more but I can't, and there is nobody else that can give you help without being there to see (otherwise it would allready said sommething)
Best regards!
Hello!
I've had a wonderful Android 8 radio for two weeks now, I'm almost hapy with it.
And that makes me the steering wheel control to create.
I think it's a Witson PX5 W2-V5538.
But here are the basic data:
Model: px5 (1024x600)
Buildnumber: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 eng.hct20180514.173404 test-keys
MCU version MTCE_MX_V2.83-1
April 26, 2018
CPU 8 core
My car is a FIAT Qubo year of production 08/2016 (after the facelift)
thus a vehicle without CAN bus on the radio, all signals come in analog.
- B +
- GND
- ACC
- ILL
- SWR left
- SWR right
- SWR GRP (GND from steering wheel control)
Between SWR right (SWR left) and GND, I can clearly identify each key with an ohmmeter, but recognizes that radio no signals from the steering wheel control.
Connection took place as follows:
SWR left = K1
SWR right = K2
SWR GRP = GND
Are there solutions to solve the problem?
The manufacturer or seller does his best but it is not enough, I have now updated to another MCU version (2.9.) But unfortunately no change.
The following MCU version has been updated today:
//drive.google.com/open?id=1qELm7uG0PXPk4VVticb6z6pBKsxVc0DE
I think it's a Witson PX5 W2-V5538.
Here is the link to Aliexpress:
//de.aliexpress.com/item/7-HD-1024x600-Pure-Android-Autoradio-For-Fiat-Fiorino-Qubo-Citroen-Nemo-Peugeot-Bipper-DVD-GPS/32816746998.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.432a4c4dpcvFnn
Thank you!
greetings
Gerald
gerald_FS said:
Hello!
I've had a wonderful Android 8 radio for two weeks now, I'm almost hapy with it.
And that makes me the steering wheel control to create.
I think it's a Witson PX5 W2-V5538.
But here are the basic data:
Model: px5 (1024x600)
Buildnumber: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 eng.hct20180514.173404 test-keys
MCU version MTCE_MX_V2.83-1
April 26, 2018
CPU 8 core
My car is a FIAT Qubo year of production 08/2016 (after the facelift)
thus a vehicle without CAN bus on the radio, all signals come in analog.
- B +
- GND
- ACC
- ILL
- SWR left
- SWR right
- SWR GRP (GND from steering wheel control)
Between SWR right (SWR left) and GND, I can clearly identify each key with an ohmmeter, but recognizes that radio no signals from the steering wheel control.
Connection took place as follows:
SWR left = K1
SWR right = K2
SWR GRP = GND
Are there solutions to solve the problem?
The manufacturer or seller does his best but it is not enough, I have now updated to another MCU version (2.9.) But unfortunately no change.
The following MCU version has been updated today:
//drive.google.com/open?id=1qELm7uG0PXPk4VVticb6z6pBKsxVc0DE
I think it's a Witson PX5 W2-V5538.
Here is the link to Aliexpress:
//de.aliexpress.com/item/7-HD-1024x600-Pure-Android-Autoradio-For-Fiat-Fiorino-Qubo-Citroen-Nemo-Peugeot-Bipper-DVD-GPS/32816746998.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.432a4c4dpcvFnn
Thank you!
greetings
Gerald
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The HU came with a canbus unit?
Have you tried "Key Study" on Factory settings? if the SWC keys dont are under canbus controll you can intercept a program key functions here.
P.S.: Also you are wrong about resistive QUBO SWC: all FIAT cars/van after 2010 are all Canbus controlled and in your case all QUBO year 2011 > are canbus controlled, italian models not sure for german versions.
Hope that help
yes, it was a CAN bus box, but it did not work with it.
Therefore, we have the radio connected directly, awie said the ISO plug all voltages and signals directly out.
The on-board system does not even specify a radio, the "old Punto" built in 2011 was different.
According to statement FIAT and original radio manufacturers have all Qubo from year of construction 07/2016 in ISO plug no CAN bus.
From 07/2016, the Daiichi M3003 was installed as a multimedia radio and that can not do anything with CAN.
Is there a possibility to convert the resistance values into CAN telegram?
In order then to convert in a further step into a radio-suitable signal?
greetings
Gerald
gerald_FS said:
yes, it was a CAN bus box, but it did not work with it.
Therefore, we have the radio connected directly, awie said the ISO plug all voltages and signals directly out.
The on-board system does not even specify a radio, the "old Punto" built in 2011 was different.
According to statement FIAT and original radio manufacturers have all Qubo from year of construction 07/2016 in ISO plug no CAN bus.
From 07/2016, the Daiichi M3003 was installed as a multimedia radio and that can not do anything with CAN.
Is there a possibility to convert the resistance values into CAN telegram?
In order then to convert in a further step into a radio-suitable signal?
greetings
Gerald
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try connect you canbus decoder box to HU, then go to factory settings and select "NO" in canbus type menu.
Check if SWC are working.
But before doing this have you tried Key Study on Factory settings?
Also if you old radio is a Blaupunkt for sure has a canbus enabled connector (usually ausiliary connector are above the standard ISO main harness).
There in Italy a lot of car accessories shop sell SWC controll box for QUBO, Fiorino, Croma, Bravo, Punto that retain SWC, Odometric signal, PDC signals, etc etc.; they are "universal box" with a certain number of cable each one for each stereo manufacturer and one special one named "for chineses stereo".
Check this link for FIAT stereos pinout: FIAT Car Radio Stereo Audio Wiring Diagram
P.S.: u need use the only one "key" cable, each one have different volgate range: Key1 or Key2; GND cable need to be connected to any GND in car like any metal part. And after the wires connection you need always use/check the Key Study on factory setting for see if is all working
P.P.S.: another manufacturer suggest this type of connection, check this PDF: Key1Key2GND_Steering wheel.pdf
Hope that help
Hello,
Thanks for the information.
The radio was installed until 07/2016 was a Blaupunkt and it supported directly the CAN-bus control.
From the model upgrade, the Turkish Daiichi M3003 was installed.
From there, the problems start for me.
Attached is my pin layout from the original radio, I currently have the new connected directly and the SWR is as clamped as described in the last description (P.P.S) of you.
At Key1 I measure a voltage of 2.9V and Key2 3.3V.
The menu item for switching off the CAN bus input, there is not in the radio, or I do not think so.
gerald_FS said:
Hello,
Thanks for the information.
The radio was installed until 07/2016 was a Blaupunkt and it supported directly the CAN-bus control.
From the model upgrade, the Turkish Daiichi M3003 was installed.
From there, the problems start for me.
Attached is my pin layout from the original radio, I currently have the new connected directly and the SWR is as clamped as described in the last description (P.P.S) of you.
At Key1 I measure a voltage of 2.9V and Key2 3.3V.
The menu item for switching off the CAN bus input, there is not in the radio, or I do not think so.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
usually +5V are expected for SWC controls, strange...
For Key Study menu and Canbus settings menu go:
HU settings, factory setting, when prompted insert 126 password then ok, on top menu tap on Key study and there try program your keys or tap on Canbus and look for your car model/manufacturer on dropdown list also try "no" options. Remember after any value modification you need fully reboot you HU.
In meantime please tell me the right model of your old car stereo, i can read the pinout from your photo. I will try to find other infos for you.
Can you post some photos of new HU connectors, harness and if present the pinout sticker (the one on first post is unreadable)?
chinaradio.pdf = connection diagram (wiring harness and pin assignment)
connectionplan1.pdf = Pin assignment RNS
pin.jpg = both the original assignment of the plug faced (RNS and car)
gerald_FS said:
chinaradio.pdf = connection diagram (wiring harness and pin assignment)
connectionplan1.pdf = Pin assignment RNS
pin.jpg = both the original assignment of the plug faced (RNS and car)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sticker photo still not working, but for what i see SWR radio pin dont have a correspondance with KEYS wires from new HU. They are "proprietary" im more convinced that you really need a canbus decoder connection/right HU settings.
I have found the following information:
chinaradio.pdf = connection diagram (wiring harness and pin assignment)
connectionplan1.pdf = Pin assignment RNS
pin.jpg = both the original assignment of the plug faced (RNS and car)
can box pinout.pdf = assignment of the CAN box
and the current MCU version 2.92. I got from the manufacturer.
Currently I have SWR right on K1 and SWR left on K2 clamped, the common Masser of the SWR I put additionally on the mass of the RNS.
The CAN box had the following connections from the vehicle
(The occupancy corresponded to the Blaupunkt layout for Fiat Qubo):
Power supply B +
CanA
CanB
to the RNA went out of the box:
ACC
K1
K2
ILL
went to the vehicle:
external amplifier 12V
and antenna 12V
I installed my RNS on a vehicle built in 2012 - everything worked immediately.
gerald_FS said:
Currently I have SWR right on K1 and SWR left on K2 clamped, the common Masser of the SWR I put additionally on the mass of the RNS.
The CAN box had the following connections from the vehicle
(The occupancy corresponded to the Blaupunkt layout for Fiat Qubo):
Power supply B +
CanA
CanB
to the RNA went out of the box:
ACC
K1
K2
ILL
went to the vehicle:
external amplifier 12V
and antenna 12V
I installed my RNS on a vehicle built in 2012 - everything worked immediately.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 2012 vehicle had the same connection of your 2016, for same i mean exactly corresponding cables?
Try set you HU with factory settings menu like i said some post above.
Deleted - answer see next post
greetings
Gerald
Hello,
The old model has a Blaupunkt radio and the correct ISO pin assignment.
In my vehicle there are the differences. we have already described it.
I have a reset to factory settings about 30 minutes ago, he does not need a PIN input and there was no change.
The voltages that I can measure correspond to CanHigh and CanLow levels .... But unfortunately you can not change the hardware.
Likewise, have ever set a resistance between K1 and GND, even that is not recognized.
As I see it, the radio definitely wants a digital signal.
greetings
Gerald
gerald_FS said:
Hello,
The old model has a Blaupunkt radio and the correct ISO pin assignment.
In my vehicle there are the differences. we have already described it.
I have a reset to factory settings about 30 minutes ago, he does not need a PIN input and there was no change.
The voltages that I can measure correspond to CanHigh and CanLow levels .... But unfortunately you can not change the hardware.
Likewise, have ever set a resistance between K1 and GND, even that is not recognized.
As I see it, the radio definitely wants a digital signal.
greetings
Gerald
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont want to be rude, but are you sure about you read?
I asked you do not perform a factory reset, but enter in unit factory settings menu and work with some of features present.
Also if you transplant the unit on an old car model and the HU is working like expected, there only 2 option:
some wires in car harness are different connected or like i said from my first post you need a canbus decoder unit for retain swc.
Now you need to choice trying my maybe working suggestions or follow your understantements or go to a professional installer and pay him for the work.
Now if there is present somebody that want help you, he's welcome!
bye
Sorry, I misunderstood something, or I wrote it wrong
I have the CAN module, re-installed in the wiring harness and there was no change.
Then I made the mistake that I have made a remnant, because I misunderstood you.
The plug in the "old" car model does not match that in my vehicle.
There are several differences:
Year of construction 2012: B +; GND; Antenna control; CanA; CanB
Year of construction 2016: B +; GND; ACC; ILL; SWR left; SWR right; SWR GRP
The radio can not be switched on in the original layout.
At the manufacturer's direction, in the first step, I have ACC; ILL; B + directly through. the CAN decoder module remains in the harness, was with GND; ACC; B + and SWR right and SWR left supplied.
The RNS works except for the steering wheel remote control.
In the further research I am here with the request and hope that there is a solution.
gerald_FS said:
Sorry, I misunderstood something, or I wrote it wrong
I have the CAN module, re-installed in the wiring harness and there was no change.
Then I made the mistake that I have made a remnant, because I misunderstood you.
The plug in the "old" car model does not match that in my vehicle.
There are several differences:
Year of construction 2012: B +; GND; Antenna control; CanA; CanB
Year of construction 2016: B +; GND; ACC; ILL; SWR left; SWR right; SWR GRP
The radio can not be switched on in the original layout.
At the manufacturer's direction, in the first step, I have ACC; ILL; B + directly through. the CAN decoder module remains in the harness, was with GND; ACC; B + and SWR right and SWR left supplied.
The RNS works except for the steering wheel remote control.
In the further research I am here with the request and hope that there is a solution.
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Click to collapse
Check this: G.M. Production - FA004.2 - Kit recupero CAN BUS comandi al volante FIAT dal 2007
Hello, Did you figure it out by any means?
My truck is a bit older so I didn't have any factory steering wheel controls.
With my previous pioneer units I was able to use an aftermarket steering wheel control that had a 3.5mm jack that plugged into every other radio I've had over the years. But my new PX6 unit doesn't have a 3.5mm jack....
Is there a specific wires on the Dasaita units that need to be connected to my 3.5mm wires? I can chop the end off if needed but I honestly have no idea what wires do what.
Am I wise to purchase different steering wheel controls?
For what it's worth, I was using this before with my other stereo https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/ASWC-1
What kind of " aftermarket steering wheel control" do you have ?
I think you can use it by connecting the "tip" of the jack to SWC (Key) of navigation, and the ground of the jack to the ground wire of navigation ...
I have a Seicane headunit and it has inputs for CAN HI and CAN low. If I connect these straight to the Canbus could I pull the OBDII data from the car? or is a CANBUS decoder required? I don't need it for steering wheel controls or anything else. I would just like to see some OBDII data.
Head unit is a PX5 4gb+32gb
If you're talking about the 2 pins on the harness connector that goes to the car those 2 wires go to another smaller connector that plugs into the CANbus decoder. So yes you need a CANbus decoder but those ELM327 OBDII dongles are dirt cheap.