Pumpkin unit (Klyde 6.2" RK3066) Canbus problem ..

Pumpkin unit (Klyde 6.2" RK3066) Canbus problem .. - MTCB Android Head Units Q&A

Hi all,
I am trying to install the above into an Audi A4 which is a canbus vehicle.
I got everything plugged in and it all looked to be working fine but after 2-3 minutes the unit always switches itself off. I have noticed the Canbus adapter always gets very hot as well just before the unit switches off.
Could I have connected something incorrectly for this behaviour to occur?
Thanks

Please be more specific.
Do you have ISO connectors?
The CanBus module should be allready wired to the comnector. It was not? If no, post the wiring diagram received (maybe you feed 12 V in a 5V input?....).
În order to get help post pictures and more info.

Hi. The fitting kit I have used is the following;
http://caraudiosecurity.com/ctkau02-audi-a4-2002-2006-complete-double-din-facia-kit
The Canbus adapter is plugged in via the attachment to the ISO cable.
Let me know if you need any pictures.
Thanks

I'm sure there is no easy way to find the problem.
I would do the following :
First make sure that all pins in all connectors are firmly in their place (see below the example).
Get correct pinout data for all connectors (Car connectors, HU, the adaptor kit and the CanBus module and also the pinout for the old stereo). When searching for the car connectors pinout make sure you find the correct one (year, model, audio system type, etc).
After having all the data you should search for any mismatch (power instead of data, different voltages, etc).
I recomend this beacuase I bumped in a similar problem with my car. I have a Mazda 6 and for the same model and year the car Hu connector differs for the Bose system version and the non Bose version, and the pinout of the adapter and Hu is not taking in consideration this posibility. Therefore I had to cut and reconnect some wires.
And one more thing : when I installed my Hu, some pins slipped out of their slots inside the connectors and my CanBus module was beep-ing constantly and the Hu was not starting at all. I had to use a very thin metal rod to push them back into position (with the connectors plugged in).

Thanks for your help. It turns out a Parrot bluetooth module was installed at some point and they have a good mess with the wiring and piggubacked onto the cars wiring. I am having to use that to power the unit now as it stops it turning off after 3 minutes. My next problem is that I don't have the steering controls option available in the settings menu. Any idea why?

If you are using CanBus you do not need that menu. The Hu has two 5V out and two inputs. If you have non CanBus Swc you need to take the 5V wire, pass it through your Swc and then to the Hu Swc input (the clasic controls usses resistors with different values for each button that atenuates the 5V from the Hu in different values for each button pressed and the Hu read that value through the swv input). So if your 5V wire and Swc input is not connected, you will not have the menu available. Once connected you must first go to factory menu and define each button (see the user manual))

Marmalux said:
If you are using CanBus you do not need that menu. The Hu has two 5V out and two inputs. If you have non CanBus Swc you need to take the 5V wire, pass it through your Swc and then to the Hu Swc input (the clasic controls usses resistors with different values for each button that atenuates the 5V from the Hu in different values for each button pressed and the Hu read that value through the swv input). So if your 5V wire and Swc input is not connected, you will not have the menu available. Once connected you must first go to factory menu and define each button (see the user manual))
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I've attached some pictures to show how the unit is connected to the Canbus adapter.
Key1 5V is connected to its equivalent going to the Canbus adapter.
Key2 5V is as above
GND is as above
Do I have it correct and am I just required to correctly map the buttons now?
Thanks

Still can't get this working.
Should I reset the headunit, update MCU and software or does it look like my wiring is wrong?
Thanks

No one can help you without being there. If you do no have the skills to do it yourself you should go to a electronics service.
As I said, you have to analyze all data. You must get all pin-outs and characteristics for your car.
You must know if your Swc is resistive or Can-bus.
With the car main stereo connectors pinout you will see what you have (resistive Swc, Can-bus wires, external amp signal, etc) and theirs place in the connector.
With the Hu pinout you will know what does the Hu can provide and what pins you should use.
And in your case you have a adapter in the middle, for witch you also need the pinout to make sure that everything is routed correctly.
After you have a clear diagram for your car you must check if fizicaly everything is as it should be.
How to get the pin-outs?
The Hu pinout should be on a sticker on the Hu itself.
For the car connectors you must first decode you vin and get info like year, options, version (usualy a more detailed pinout you find if you search the old stereo pin-out by it's exact make and model).
And for the adapter you must get it from the seller or from the Internet.
You said that before you, someone made modifications to wiring; this is one more reasons to get all informations and make yourself a clear wiring diagram for you to be able to start troubleshooting.
I realy wish I could help more but I can't, and there is nobody else that can give you help without being there to see (otherwise it would allready said sommething)
Best regards!

Related

SWC command repeat issue (VW CAN-BUS)

Hi, i hope this is the right forum to post my problem.
I have brought up this issue before, but would like to use the new layout to post again.
I'm still having issues with the SWC controls sending a repeat signal (3 repeats) every time one of the SWC buttons are pressed. I have tried apps like CarService and assigned a delay to the key press, but it does not seem to have any effect.
Has anyone had this issue before and how was it resolved? Is this a know issue or am i not setting it up correctly...

does this happen all the time or just during / short time after startup?

Hi @darkalex, this is a continues problem and is not affected by startup or uptime. I have kept my MCU and firmware updated with the hope that a update would fix it.

@kvantum had a similar problem with his SWC.
Posted in: Old Q&A-Thread - This Thread will be split into multiple KB-Thread soon Post #1868
"SWC and CANBUS
Ok so I've been dealing with a problem for some time, but my seller is now stumped, apparently involving an engineer at this point.
Wondering if anyone else experienced the same - I can't be the only one.
I have a KLYDE unit made for a mazda CX-5, and the SWC controls are... strange
Some buttons, when I hit them - get registered as 3 presses. So skipping a song skips 3. Hitting VOL+ increases by 3, etc. Pickup/hangup don't work.
The app for button re-mapping doesn't register any keypresses at all. CANBUS app sees me opening and closing a door. Seller confirmed I got the right decoder for my car, and all the settings are correct, including canbus type in Factory Settings.
Has anyone else experienced such behaviour?"

Oh yea, this issue drove me nuts
Seller/"engineer" couldn't figure it out. I ended up fixing it myself. The problem is with the canbus box.
To fix it you'll need to do some cable splicing.
There are 3 cables going from swc into the stereo - 2 data one return. One data for media and one for Bluetooth controls. You may have 1 data 1 return. It depends on the car.
Each button represents different resistor value. Stereo monitors this resistor value to determine if a button is pressed and which one, depending on resistance read. This is what's supposed to happen with that button learning utility in settings. You may have noticed that it's useless right now.
So, these cables are currently going into the canbus box, which interprets the resistor values and sends a command to android via serial interface, and it does send 3 signals (I monitored the serial port).
The stereo itself has the input cables necessary to interpret the resistor values itself without canbus unit.
My stereo unit has a schematic on top, and those cables are called Key1 & Key2 for data and "Steering wheel ground" for return.
In my case the data wires were just hanging loose, and steering wheel ground was connected to regular ground.
So, I had to figure out which cables to cut going into the canbus box. I happened to have a schematic for my car, but there are ways to figure it out without it. Feel free to post picture of your canbus box, one of the top and one of the cable connector, bonus if you got the full cable connector pic as well. I can help you figure it out.
So, what I've done is cut those cables away from canbus box and connected them directly to stereo. Now all buttons behave properly, and the button learning utility works as well. And since the canbus box is still connected, the door open indicator still works as well.
Also I bought a reverse camera which wouldn't turn on when in reverse gear. I managed to fix that by splicing cables as well.
I only got one picture of the actual work I did.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I added some connectors so I could easily switch back if I had to, but I never did because everything works great now.
So, if you decide to go through with all of this, feel free to ask questions. Be as detailed as possible describing your set up if it looks different than mine, take lots of pictures, I'll try to help as much as I can.
PS Oh hey, new layout!

Thanks so much @kvantum, this is really awesome news and thanks for the explanation. I'm going to try this out on Saturday and hopefully i wouldn't have to bug you to much.
PS: I'm not able to see the picture you added, but i'm sure i'll manage.
I'll take your advise and document the mod and add to the forum later on, if successful.
I really appreciate the reply and i hope this will reach others that was struggling with this issue.
My specs for reference:
Vehicle: 2010 VW Jetta 5 1.4TSI DSG
Head Unit: KGL

Can you see the picture now?
And I have a correction to make. Looking at the image, I'm realizing that "steering wheel ground" was just going to regular ground.
So on the car end I didn't terminate that cable anywhere. On the stereo end that cable was already spliced into ground (you can see the bundle spliced under my nail in the photo above)

I can see you picture now, thanks!
I have taken some pictures of my setup, but not sure how to upload them (should i upload them somewhere and then post the link or how do you embed them?)
My Key1 & Key2 wires are also hanging loose so i suppose my mod will be similar to yours. I have the plug pinouts for both the head unit and the VW EOM square plug so it should not be to difficult to find the right wire to splice.
Once i figure out how to upload the pics i'll do so (Some guidance here will be appreciated)

Just to add, my CAN BUS does not show any of the car information. No indication of doors that are open and it also does not display any radio/music info in die instrument cluster...
Is there a trick to get this working or should it be working in the first place?
With all of these features not working i'm not actually certain what the Can Bus Box does in my setup.

I don't think there's a way to upload pictures to the forum. I use my web site. If you have dropbox you can put them into your public folder and embed or link. Include your schematic/pinouts too if you want me to confirm.
Canbus box might be responsible for things like dimming trigger when you turn headlights on or reverse camera trigger when in reverse gear. It wasn't in my case, but I've heard of others with such setup. Disconnect it and see if anything stops working.
I don't know of a simple way to get the canbus box to do more than what it does. Same as I don't know how to stop it from sending 3 signals instead of 1. They programmed it, and it's not worth trying to reverse engineer it.
I am however playing around with arduino canbus shield so I can have complete control of the information sent to the stereo. That'll take a while though as it's not really my priority right now.

The CANbus (controller area network bus) is a vehicle bus standard designed to allow devices to communicate with each other without the need of a host computer.
The HU don't come with a CAN bus they have a Decoder Box that tries to interpret signals on the bus for the HU. If you are having problems with the HU not responding correctly either you have the wrong decoder, the HU is set up for the wrong decoder, or that function is not available with aftermarket decoder boxes.
Maybe Contact Rambo @joying. When I original bought my unit they didn't support factory amps. I had to use a PAC decoder. Then he told me that they figured it out and he sent me a new decoder box. After replacing the PAC, all kinds of things started showing up.
What Vehicle, HU?

I have a 2014 Mazda CX-5 with a Klyde HU
My canbus decoder actually says CX-5 on it. Interesting to hear if there's a better decoder out there, I couldn't find anything

@kvantum As you can see i also have the Key1 & Key2 wires that are not connectet. If i understand correctly i must connect the (Brown) Key1 &Key2 wires directly to the CAN + and CAN - (Green) wires on the VW Quad Socket. How do i know which wire to connect to what pin. Eg Key1 -> CAN + and Key2 -> CAN - or vice versa?

Hear are the pictures of my wiring harness, CANBUS Decoder and VW Quadlock Socket as well as the wiring diagrams for the HU and the VW OEM Socket.
Wire to enable or disable CANBUS Power ON control of the HU:
CANBUS Decoder:
Head Unit Wiring Diagram:
Loose Wires [Brake, Amp-Ctrl, Key1 &Key2]:
VW OEM PLUG:
VW OEM PLUG Wiring Diagram:
VW Plug n Play socket:
Wiring Harness:

Hi have a 2010 VW Jetta 5 1.4TSI DSG and a HuiFei/Kei Ge Le [KGL] Head Unit

Ok, bad news.
Looks like your car doesn't supply direct wires to the steering wheel controls.
In my car, I had SWC wires going directly to the stereo.
In your case, SWC send signal to CANBUS, then stereo sniffs the signals from CANBUS, with no SWC cables to the stereo.
Unfortunately, there is no easy/cheap workaround for you. Sorry
Here are some other options I can think of:
-If you don't care about radio and stock mp3 player and instead use aftermarket MP3 player, there's CarService app that's now included with Malaysk's roms. On my request @KeiserSozeyFr included an option to ignore repeated button presses up to x ms (configurable).
Also available here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=53678587&postcount=1179
This was before I was able to figure out the wiring, but I believe the option is still there. Volume will still jump in 3s though.
-Try finding another decoder, or see if SWI-X by pac-audio can do the job
-See if your steering wheel has 2 or 3 cables coming from the SWC module before hitting canbus. To see if you can use them, use a multimeter to measure resistance between those cables (disconnect them first). When pressing a button, you should see changing resistance. If this is the case, then you'll need to connect those to key1+gnd (also key2 if there are 3 cables instead of 2)
-put arduino on the serial interface between canbus decoder and stereo. You can use it to catch the signals from decoder, drop the two repeats, and send single command on to the stereo.
Maybe someone else has better suggestions, but that's what I can think of.

Ah damn, thats unfortunate. Luckily i have not made any changes to the wiring as of yet, just as well.
Thanks for all your input! Much appreciated. I have tried CarService before, but i'll give the new ROM and CS a bash. Maybe just maybe it will work.
Hopefully someone else can assist, but the arduino option sounds like a fun project to explore. Any advise regarding the arduino circuit will be more than welcome.
It's been a while since I've last programmed something...

If you do decide to go the arduino way, I can help out.
It should be fairly simple, with maybe 20 lines of code total.
You can get mini arduino board from ali/ebay for under $5
I would also recommend getting some 2/4-pin male/female connector pairs so that you can easily switch between stock/modified wiring configurations.
Arduino technically has only one serial port, but there's a software serial library that you can use to turn digital pins into more serial ports
For wiring you'll need to cut the two serial cables(TX/RX) between stereo and canbus decoder. Plus you'll need to splice into power + ground to power the arduino(it can take 12V on the VIN pin)
Then serial cables going from canbus box get hooked up to one serial port, from stereo - to another.

I have been reading up on the Arduino option and it looks like most people use this Ardruino Board:
ARD UNO REV3
http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P1424521842
and this shield:
CAN-Bus Shield Microchip MCP2515 CAN controller with MCP2551 CAN transceiver
http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P1865739722
The CAN- and CAN+ connect to the shield and then the shield connects to the ardruino board via the seriel port or pin connections ? Arduino is then connects to a pc via USB to display output and write the code. The interpreted code is then sent via the serial connection/pins to the Rx and Tx inputs on the Head Unit?
Do you by chance know at what bus speed my VW CANBUS runs?
I'm planning to visit the electronics shop on Friday, if it doesn't work out to be to expensive to build. Otherwise i'll try online shops, but will need to figure out exactly what i'll need first.
Have you managed to finish and test your Arduino setup and get it working 100%

@Hein3G I have a 2012 Jetta with a factory amp. The PAC decoder did not allow for SWC but it did turn on the factory Amp. Which is why I harassed Rambo at Joying until they figured out how to turn the Amp on through the CANbus decoder. It cost me $20 in shipping to have them send me the new decoder. It was well worth it.
In the harness they sent me the Key1 and Key2 wires went to the decoder box plug they are not loose. The only loose wires are the Blue power ant., Orange/black ext amp, and the red ACC. My decoder says:
(VW-XZM-03) 18/09/15
For Passat, Sagitar, Tigu, Golf6, Touran, Magotan, Jetta
software: V2.3A (JY)
The decoder they sent you may be the wrong one or outdated. I would contact them before doing anything complicated or expensive.

Newbie needs a little help for KLD unit

Greetings, gurus and fellow users of android head units,
I recently took the plunge and bought myself one of these head units after much browsing of the forums and trying to read up as much as I can. The exact one is shown here: https://world.taobao.com/item/528347515585.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.3Y4Xhq#detail
For those who are unable to view the link/understand Chinese, here are some quick specs:
- 10.1 inch touchscreen, 1024x600 resolution
- RK3188
- 1GB ram, 16GB storage
- Android 5.1.1
- MTCC-KLD6-V2.97 Aug 02 2016 10:35:08
Interestingly, this is only unit I've seen so far that still comes with a DVD slot, plus it comes with an external mic, which pretty much solves the issue of the crappy internal mic that many of you have experienced in the past. Also, apart from 2 USB ports that are connected to the back of the unit, there is another USB port in front, just to the right of the sd card slot and below the DVD slot.
All went well with this head unit, but there are some minor issues that I would like to ask for your help or guidance:
- 3G USB dongle is not stable - If I turn on the unit with the dongle attached first, it does not work at all. If I attach it after the unit completes booting, it sometimes will lose 3G connectivity. I have downloaded the mobile network settings app and removed all but 1 APN. Searching on the forums tell me this should pretty much be a power issue. I'm currently looking around to see if I can find a USB hub that accepts 12V DC power so I can connect to the ACC circuit and see if the issue goes away. If anyone has any other suggestions, please feel free to let me know.
- Custom firmware - I decided to try Malaysk's rom from here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=69114366&postcount=691 however, it didn't work. After updating the firmware from sd card and wiping the data/cache/etc a couple of times, all I got after rebooting the unit was a black screen and an unresponsive status bar. Booting into recovery shows me the "Block device required" message and a bunch of others that I've forgotten. Fortunately, I was able to restore via USB to a newer version of MTCC-KLD6 firmware posted here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=69206883&postcount=165 and everything still works. However, I would still like to try Malaysk's rom, and possibly in the future try 7floor's sound mod.
- Steering wheel control - According to the shop where I went to get my unit installed, my 2007 Subaru Impreza comes with only 1 wire for swc. Using the default Key Study app I was able to map the vol+, vol-, mute, mode, previous ( |< ) and next ( >| ) keys successfully. However, I noticed that sometimes, the keys would not work. Also, the unit sometimes confuses the vol+ and mute signals. Is there anything I can do to make this better?
- Screen dimming - Is there any way to dim the display brightness using the signal from the car's lights? Currently, the soft touch buttons along the left edge of the display will light up automatically when I switch on the headlights, and go dark when I turn the lights off, but the display brightness does not change. End result, I have a screen that is either too bright at night, or too dark during the day.
Many thanks in advance to all who give me suggestions and answers to my questions above. :good:

firefly_hm said:
- 3G USB dongle is not stable - If I turn on the unit with the dongle attached first, it does not work at all. If I attach it after the unit completes booting, it sometimes will lose 3G connectivity. I have downloaded the mobile network settings app and removed all but 1 APN. Searching on the forums tell me this should pretty much be a power issue. I'm currently looking around to see if I can find a USB hub that accepts 12V DC power so I can connect to the ACC circuit and see if the issue goes away. If anyone has any other suggestions, please feel free to let me know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Igave up on using a 3G modem and started using a cheap USB 3G hotspot powered from the lighter socket. The headunit connects to it through WiFi and that's it.
firefly_hm said:
- Custom firmware - I decided to try Malaysk's rom from here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=69114366&postcount=691 however, it didn't work. After updating the firmware from sd card and wiping the data/cache/etc a couple of times, all I got after rebooting the unit was a black screen and an unresponsive status bar. Booting into recovery shows me the "Block device required" message and a bunch of others that I've forgotten. Fortunately, I was able to restore via USB to a newer version of MTCC-KLD6 firmware posted here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=69206883&postcount=165 and everything still works. However, I would still like to try Malaysk's rom, and possibly in the future try 7floor's sound mod.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is with 5.1 recovery. Malaysk's latest 5.1.1 ROM from October 30 uses a 4.4 recovery and can be installed om your unit. You can also try his 4.4 ROM or @dsa8310 5.1.1 ROM
firefly_hm said:
- Steering wheel control - According to the shop where I went to get my unit installed, my 2007 Subaru Impreza comes with only 1 wire for swc. Using the default Key Study app I was able to map the vol+, vol-, mute, mode, previous ( |< ) and next ( >| ) keys successfully. However, I noticed that sometimes, the keys would not work. Also, the unit sometimes confuses the vol+ and mute signals. Is there anything I can do to make this better?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1 wire is pure nonsense. You have a resistive SWC and need 2 wires, one of which is GND. Find the SWC ground wire and make sure it's connected and you'll get rid of these issues.
firefly_hm said:
- Screen dimming - Is there any way to dim the display brightness using the signal from the car's lights? Currently, the soft touch buttons along the left edge of the display will light up automatically when I switch on the headlights, and go dark when I turn the lights off, but the display brightness does not change. End result, I have a screen that is either too bright at night, or too dark during the day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is an Xposed module that will dim the screen based on time of the day.

m00n61 said:
1 wire is pure nonsense. You have a resistive SWC and need 2 wires, one of which is GND. Find the SWC ground wire and make sure it's connected and you'll get rid of these issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed, there are 2 wires. The SWC signal wire is connected to the Key1 wire on the unit and the SWC ground is spliced together with the unit's ground. There is another Key2 wire which presumably is for other makes/models of cars that have 2 SWC signal wires. Our conclusion is that the unit is not sensitive enough to sense the differences between the mute signal and the vol+ signal. All other SWC functions are operating normally though.
Another issue that I forgot to mention earlier, for some reason the GPS apps that I'm using (Waze and Maps.Me) are unable to automatically switch to night mode display of the maps when night comes. Any ideas as to why this is happening?

firefly_hm said:
Indeed, there are 2 wires. The SWC signal wire is connected to the Key1 wire on the unit and the SWC ground is spliced together with the unit's ground. There is another Key2 wire which presumably is for other makes/models of cars that have 2 SWC signal wires. Our conclusion is that the unit is not sensitive enough to sense the differences between the mute signal and the vol+ signal. All other SWC functions are operating normally though.
Another issue that I forgot to mention earlier, for some reason the GPS apps that I'm using (Waze and Maps.Me) are unable to automatically switch to night mode display of the maps when night comes. Any ideas as to why this is happening?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your conclusion is ..., how should I put it? Not right?
Ground key2. It's a resistive matrix for **** sake. It's not a MOS-FET preamp.

m00n61 said:
Your conclusion is ..., how should I put it? Not right?
Ground key2. It's a resistive matrix for **** sake. It's not a MOS-FET preamp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was what I interpreted from your first post - SWC signal to Key1, ground to Key2. However when I tried that, the unit was totally unable to detect any SWC signal at all. On closer inspection of the wires on the unit, both Key1 and Key2 wires were marked as 5V. With SWC signal to Key1 and ground tied to unit ground, I was able to get SWC to work, albeit intermittently.

firefly_hm said:
That was what I interpreted from your first post - SWC signal to Key1, ground to Key2. However when I tried that, the unit was totally unable to detect any SWC signal at all. On closer inspection of the wires on the unit, both Key1 and Key2 wires were marked as 5V. With SWC signal to Key1 and ground tied to unit ground, I was able to get SWC to work, albeit intermittently.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking at the unit pictures it seems it has a CANBUS decoder, which explains Key1 and 2 both marked as 5V. And your car seems to have CANBUS. Not sure if Subaru also used it for SWC though, you will need the schematics. If this is the case you need to enter Factory settings (use 126 as password) and, under the Application tab select the proper CANBUS setting. But then, both wires need to be connected. I presume you did not get a proper harness but the zillions of wires as in the picture so I suggest you get the proper one for your car. It will probably be easier to get a standard ISO wiring for the unit and a ISO/car connector adapter wiring.

m00n61 said:
Looking at the unit pictures it seems it has a CANBUS decoder, which explains Key1 and 2 both marked as 5V. And your car seems to have CANBUS. Not sure if Subaru also used it for SWC though, you will need the schematics. If this is the case you need to enter Factory settings (use 126 as password) and, under the Application tab select the proper CANBUS setting. But then, both wires need to be connected. I presume you did not get a proper harness but the zillions of wires as in the picture so I suggest you get the proper one for your car. It will probably be easier to get a standard ISO wiring for the unit and a ISO/car connector adapter wiring.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've look through the service manual, the SWC controls are connected to the CAN communication system, but I'm not sure how this works. Will research this further, thanks.
In other news, I've managed to get Malaysk's latest firmware running on my unit, like you said it's due to the recovery. Many thanks for that. One thing I've noticed, the blank screen button in the status bar no longer works (The one near the return button on the right, not the screensaver button on the left). Is this normal?
Also, do you have any idea on the navigation apps map night mode issue?

firefly_hm said:
I've look through the service manual, the SWC controls are connected to the CAN communication system, but I'm not sure how this works. Will research this further, thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Something like this should help
firefly_hm said:
In other news, I've managed to get Malaysk's latest firmware running on my unit, like you said it's due to the recovery. Many thanks for that. One thing I've noticed, the blank screen button in the status bar no longer works (The one near the return button on the right, not the screensaver button on the left). Is this normal?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check the mtc-status bar module in xposed (and mtc-statusbar.ini). It could be disabled
firefly_hm said:
Also, do you have any idea on the navigation apps map night mode issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea. Apart from app configuration settings - night mode may be disabled.

firefly_hm said:
That was what I interpreted from your first post - SWC signal to Key1, ground to Key2. However when I tried that, the unit was totally unable to detect any SWC signal at all. On closer inspection of the wires on the unit, both Key1 and Key2 wires were marked as 5V. With SWC signal to Key1 and ground tied to unit ground, I was able to get SWC to work, albeit intermittently.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I have seen of the MCU code itself, I don't think that Key2 is meant to be a ground reference for Key1. They are both handled the same way in the code -- as separate analog inputs. When they change and become stable, the MCU sends a message to the Android cpu. So if Key2 is being used as a reference it has to be happening on the Android side of things. Looks to me far more likely that Key2 is just used for cars with more than one resistive ladder.
If your SWC keys work but are sometimes unreliable, you might try placing a small bypass capacitor across key1 to key ground. This will smooth out the signal presented to the analog input. The best value would depend on the resistance in the ladder itself, so all you can do is try some values to see if something helps. I would start with something like a .1uF or .22uF bypass cap just because they are fast and cheap. If the value is too small it will not help, & if too large the key response time may become slow. You may also have to "teach" your HU the new key values again. Might be worth a try anyway.

m00n61 said:
Check the mtc-status bar module in xposed (and mtc-statusbar.ini). It could be disabled
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've checked the mtc-statusbar.ini, there is no mention of this function. I'll try asking over at Malaysk's thread, but I'm afraid he might not be able to help much as well since he doesn't have a 1024x600 unit and he announced that he will be retiring.
m00n61 said:
No idea. Apart from app configuration settings - night mode may be disabled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Night mode is set to auto in the navigation apps. However, they do not switch to night mode at all. Manually setting them to night mode works, but the maps become too dark for use during the day.
dhmsjs said:
From what I have seen of the MCU code itself, I don't think that Key2 is meant to be a ground reference for Key1. They are both handled the same way in the code -- as separate analog inputs. When they change and become stable, the MCU sends a message to the Android cpu. So if Key2 is being used as a reference it has to be happening on the Android side of things. Looks to me far more likely that Key2 is just used for cars with more than one resistive ladder.
If your SWC keys work but are sometimes unreliable, you might try placing a small bypass capacitor across key1 to key ground. This will smooth out the signal presented to the analog input. The best value would depend on the resistance in the ladder itself, so all you can do is try some values to see if something helps. I would start with something like a .1uF or .22uF bypass cap just because they are fast and cheap. If the value is too small it will not help, & if too large the key response time may become slow. You may also have to "teach" your HU the new key values again. Might be worth a try anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the suggestion. Based on what I've found, the ladder for my car looks something like this:
No buttons pressed: Approx. 4.7k ohms
Mute: Approx 22 ohms
Vol+: Approx 90 ohms
Vol-: Approx 200 ohms
Mode: Approx 360 ohms
Seek >: Approx 690 ohms
Seek <: Approx 1.5k ohms
My colleague has suggested that perhaps 22 ohms is too little for the unit to sense properly and adding a resister of say 500 ohms to Key1 may solve the issue.

firefly_hm said:
Based on what I've found, the ladder for my car looks something like this:
No buttons pressed: Approx. 4.7k ohms
Mute: Approx 22 ohms
Vol+: Approx 90 ohms
Vol-: Approx 200 ohms
Mode: Approx 360 ohms
Seek >: Approx 690 ohms
Seek <: Approx 1.5k ohms
My colleague has suggested that perhaps 22 ohms is too little for the unit to sense properly and adding a resister of say 500 ohms to Key1 may solve the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
firefly_hm said:
I've look through the service manual, the SWC controls are connected to the CAN communication system, but I'm not sure how this works. Will research this further, thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your SWC is through CAN BUS then it is not a resistive ladder.
Maybe you should start here to understand how this works.

m00n61 said:
If your SWC is through CAN BUS then it is not a resistive ladder.
Maybe you should start here to understand how this works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the diagram that is shown in the service manual for my car. As you can see, it is a resistive latter, and it is also connected to CAN:
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"lightbox_next": "Next",
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"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
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firefly_hm said:
This is the diagram that is shown in the service manual for my car. As you can see, it is a resistive latter, and it is also connected to CAN:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The fact that both the SWC wires and the CAN BUS module connect to the audio board doesn't mean SWC is connected to CAN BUS. Anyway, have fun with your unit.

firefly_hm said:
...Thanks for the suggestion. Based on what I've found, the ladder for my car looks something like this:
No buttons pressed: Approx. 4.7k ohms
Mute: Approx 22 ohms
Vol+: Approx 90 ohms
Vol-: Approx 200 ohms
Mode: Approx 360 ohms
Seek >: Approx 690 ohms
Seek <: Approx 1.5k ohms
My colleague has suggested that perhaps 22 ohms is too little for the unit to sense properly and adding a resister of say 500 ohms to Key1 may solve the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here are some more details about the SWC algorithm that may help your colleague. This is based on what I see in the MTCB-KLD2-V2.77 MCU, but is also true in MTCC-KLD6-V2.91 as far as I have seen, so I suspect it is common to most MTCB & MTCC MCUs.
The MTCD MCU is a different processor altogether so this does not necessarily apply to those.
The A to D converter is 10 bits with a voltage range of 0 to 3.3v. Conversions are triggered every 1.1 mSec and each conversion takes about 49uSec. To accommodate a wide range of ladder impedance, the MCU sequentially applies 3 different bias currents to the ladder and reads the voltage present with each one. It adds the 3 readings together to form a composite value. Three of these composite readings are averaged together to form the final value, and to detect stability of the signal. The 3 bias levels are
With key bias 1 and 2 both off:
Key 1 input pulled up to 3.3v with 22k
Key 2 input pulled up to 3.3v with 22k
With key bias 1 on:
Add 2.2k pullup to Key 1 input
Add 2.2k pullup to Key 2 input
With key bias 2 on:
Add 470 ohm pullup to key 1 input
Add 470 ohm pullup to key 2 input

MTCD schematic

Found - MTCD Schematic. A most valuable find on russian android car audio forum and attached here.
[Android Car Audio]
The schematic corresponds to a GS Mainboard I have as a spare part. It varies to my JY board in terms of USB operation, with this board OTG is provided for.

This is ridiculously helpful, regardless of what MTCD manufacturer you have. I've had to replace MOSFET's and internally shorted caps in my KGL before, and having a general reference like this would have made the process so much quicker. Cheers!

MbTaNk16 said:
This is ridiculously helpful, regardless of what MTCD manufacturer you have. I've had to replace MOSFET's and internally shorted caps in my KGL before, and having a general reference like this would have made the process so much quicker. Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed! I was astounded to find this. Unfortunately I still wasnt able to get my PX5 board to go into maskrom for OTG flashing, but is probably something I am not doing right. Schematic is absolutely valid and is spot on for MTCD GS.
18/07 - Was able to put PX5 into OTG [LOADER] mode after modifying board.

Thanks @cupi1234

marchnz said:
Anyone with a 4pda account - can you please try and download and attach here - http://4pda.ru/forum/dl/post/9567228/MTCD++Witson-A510-2016-04-28+V01.pdf
[MTCD Witson-A510-2016-04-28+V01.pdf - 4PDA]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
witson

Hi, does somebody knows the wiring of the PB76FSAP-S, an MTCD from Ownice (C500). I am trying to connect a OTS020 tpms to port F. The OTS020 has 4 wires, +, gnd, data and something else. I want to know how the unit supplies power and wich pins are used for data.
Thanks.

747 Driver said:
Hi, does somebody knows the wiring of the PB76FSAP-S, an MTCD from Ownice (C500). I am trying to connect a OTS020 tpms to port F. The OTS020 has 4 wires, +, gnd, data and something else. I want to know how the unit supplies power and wich pins are used for data.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Ownice C500 is not an MTCD unit. Ownice dont make MTCD units, their units are of an entirely different design with totally incompatible software.

Source for Raw Audio Output?
Looking at this schematic on page 10, it appears that the section labeled 'ARM' would be the interface connector from the Android board to the MCU Board.
Following @dazza007 's and @7floor 's posts below, it looks like the raw audio output from the Android Board is available at pins 12 and 13. Without a schematic of the Android Board I can't be sure, but I assume that these should trace back to pins 12 and 13 from the WM8731 Audio Codec chip.
If I'm correct and we could harness these raw line level audio outputs it could give the people that were looking for a clean feed for DSP's and the like.
Full disclosure, I do not have one of these units yet but am looking at a GCS Apex branded unit that appears to be a MTCD KLD model per the merchant website pictures. http://www.subispeed.com/2013-crosstrek/interior/audio-stereo-upgrades/gcs-apex-android-v2-head-unit-w-gps-2013-2016-forester-crosstrek#.WgRiFFuPLIU
dazz007
https://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/mtcb-hardware-development/mtc-sound-controlling-bd37xxx-sound-t3234660
7floor
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=63520630

typos1 said:
The Ownice C500 is not an MTCD unit. Ownice dont make MTCD units, their units are of an entirely different design with totally incompatible software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please enlighten me. It says MTCD in the settings, I have a GS v 2.56 running.
What type of unit is it? According Xtrons it is a PB-76FSFAP-S. What type is it (MCT/B/C/D/E?)
Thanks

747 Driver said:
Please enlighten me. It says MTCD in the settings, I have a GS v 2.56 running.
What type of unit is it? According Xtrons it is a PB-76FSFAP-S. What type is it (MCT/B/C/D/E?)
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it says "MTCD GS" in the MCU field then you have a GS MCD unit.
Xtrons are simply resellers - they buy units from various manufacturers and then give them made up model numbers.
Ownice are an entirely different company that make entirley different units.

i have a GS PX5 Android 6.0 ( now migrated to Oreo) unit, i'd like to know if this board have USB OTG port.
I need to connect a USB/SPDIF Converter , the Matrix X-SPDIF2, and it is Android 8 certified for USB OTG port.

PX5 MX2 Unit No RESET
Hey guys,
I'm half offtopic here, but my thing has to do with the schematics / HW mod (can't open topics due to low post count..)
Just recently bought a replacement for my Opel Astra J '12 and ..
It's a MX PX5 4GB Oreo sold by Witson.
This HU is very specific, because it comes in two parts.
1. Silverbox with the MCU and sockets + 2. Display board with SD slot
My point writing here is, that it doesn't have a reset hole - Oh well yea it has, but behind it there's nothing to push
Desperate as I am, I wanna have a reset button to enter recovery and .. well - if it gets stuck, to recover.
As the silverbox will be behind the dash, my only option would be the display board, where I found two connectors having a PIN def for RST_KEY and now I need instructions how to do the cabling, as I'm not sure how to achieve the reset function.
RST_KEY + GND ?
OTG? Found a little connecter not having a corresponding plug (white 8PIN in IMG_2613)
-> Pictures
abload.de/gallery.php?key=sNOKaV7R
Would be cool if you guys help me out
BR X

Hey Xorit,
I guess you've got the v5754 unit.
The reset line won't help you for recovery, I tried the same and reset is only a hard reset.
I've soldered a cable to key1, gnd and led8v on the display part (under the back cover), put a plug on the end and placed it in the glove department.
I then made a small pcb with a tactile switch connecting key1 - gnd and a 12v led on led8v and gnd, with this you'll be able to enter recovery by holding the button until the led flashes 3 times and then stays on,
Releasing it for a second and the keep on pressing, releasing, pressing for a couple of times.
I'm not sure if you're able to flash any custom rom because the sd slot on these units is a USB converted and not a gps slot.
Btw. I flashed mine with a custom rom by extracting the board, placing it in a xtrons model and then puting it back.

Thanks for that super helpful post!
Just ordered the needed components
Yep, indeed the V5754.
Dunno why they didnt wire any of those support keys.
Thanks mate!
bunnymc said:
Hey Xorit,
I guess you've got the v5754 unit.
The reset line won't help you for recovery, I tried the same and reset is only a hard reset.
I've soldered a cable to key1, gnd and led8v on the display part (under the back cover), put a plug on the end and placed it in the glove department.
I then made a small pcb with a tactile switch connecting key1 - gnd and a 12v led on led8v and gnd, with this you'll be able to enter recovery by holding the button until the led flashes 3 times and then stays on,
Releasing it for a second and the keep on pressing, releasing, pressing for a couple of times.
I'm not sure if you're able to flash any custom rom because the sd slot on these units is a USB converted and not a gps slot.
Btw. I flashed mine with a custom rom by extracting the board, placing it in a xtrons model and then puting it back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

got it working with ur directions!
the button mutes on single press, so it might be possible that the mute button on the steering wheel will do the same..would be weird tho.
might be helpfull for those who have no reset button either!
that new button selects options on single press in recovery and activates on long press, just like the normal reset hole.
->
on the display board you have two flat flexi cable connectors (not in use), where there are pin outs for usb + led + 2 keys.
thanks again!

Hey i have one Question. It says u can Solder it directly to the SOM or with a Flexible flat Cable. I have on my Unit the SOM and this is connectet to the Bigger Board. On this Bigger board i have 2 Flat Flex Connectors. Can i use them for this method?! And if yes wich one is the Right flat connector and where to get a flexible Band cable!? Would help me much if someone helps me because i have done the USB OTG Cable mod and now i have no Recovery and no USB anymore so i can not flash anything. I tried flashing in Android an MCU update but it does not do. Downloaded all to the units internal storage.
Greetz Tom

Nice I'm glad that it did the trick for you
The mute button from your steering wheel won't work because it's connected via canbus (same as cd3/4/600 button panel).
The mute from the soldered button is just a setting in the firmware (you could change it with the steering wheel button assignment settings to whatever you want.
I also added 2 more tactile switches to the key1 line with different resistors (resistor ladder) to be able to use them as hardware buttons (e.g. Vol up/down and power) but haven't had the chance to test it yet.
Xorit said:
got it working with ur directions!
the button mutes on single press, so it might be possible that the mute button on the steering wheel will do the same..would be weird tho.
might be helpfull for those who have no reset button either!
that new button selects options on single press in recovery and activates on long press, just like the normal reset hole.
->
on the display board you have two flat flexi cable connectors (not in use), where there are pin outs for usb + led + 2 keys.
thanks again!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Still in the wrong forum !!

typos1 said:
Still in the wrong forum !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I reported - post gone.

PX5 - analog (resistance) based steering wheel control

Hello!
I've had a wonderful Android 8 radio for two weeks now, I'm almost hapy with it.
And that makes me the steering wheel control to create.
I think it's a Witson PX5 W2-V5538.
But here are the basic data:
Model: px5 (1024x600)
Buildnumber: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 eng.hct20180514.173404 test-keys
MCU version MTCE_MX_V2.83-1
April 26, 2018
CPU 8 core
My car is a FIAT Qubo year of production 08/2016 (after the facelift)
thus a vehicle without CAN bus on the radio, all signals come in analog.
- B +
- GND
- ACC
- ILL
- SWR left
- SWR right
- SWR GRP (GND from steering wheel control)
Between SWR right (SWR left) and GND, I can clearly identify each key with an ohmmeter, but recognizes that radio no signals from the steering wheel control.
Connection took place as follows:
SWR left = K1
SWR right = K2
SWR GRP = GND
Are there solutions to solve the problem?
The manufacturer or seller does his best but it is not enough, I have now updated to another MCU version (2.9.) But unfortunately no change.
The following MCU version has been updated today:
//drive.google.com/open?id=1qELm7uG0PXPk4VVticb6z6pBKsxVc0DE
I think it's a Witson PX5 W2-V5538.
Here is the link to Aliexpress:
//de.aliexpress.com/item/7-HD-1024x600-Pure-Android-Autoradio-For-Fiat-Fiorino-Qubo-Citroen-Nemo-Peugeot-Bipper-DVD-GPS/32816746998.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.432a4c4dpcvFnn
Thank you!
greetings
Gerald

gerald_FS said:
Hello!
I've had a wonderful Android 8 radio for two weeks now, I'm almost hapy with it.
And that makes me the steering wheel control to create.
I think it's a Witson PX5 W2-V5538.
But here are the basic data:
Model: px5 (1024x600)
Buildnumber: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 eng.hct20180514.173404 test-keys
MCU version MTCE_MX_V2.83-1
April 26, 2018
CPU 8 core
My car is a FIAT Qubo year of production 08/2016 (after the facelift)
thus a vehicle without CAN bus on the radio, all signals come in analog.
- B +
- GND
- ACC
- ILL
- SWR left
- SWR right
- SWR GRP (GND from steering wheel control)
Between SWR right (SWR left) and GND, I can clearly identify each key with an ohmmeter, but recognizes that radio no signals from the steering wheel control.
Connection took place as follows:
SWR left = K1
SWR right = K2
SWR GRP = GND
Are there solutions to solve the problem?
The manufacturer or seller does his best but it is not enough, I have now updated to another MCU version (2.9.) But unfortunately no change.
The following MCU version has been updated today:
//drive.google.com/open?id=1qELm7uG0PXPk4VVticb6z6pBKsxVc0DE
I think it's a Witson PX5 W2-V5538.
Here is the link to Aliexpress:
//de.aliexpress.com/item/7-HD-1024x600-Pure-Android-Autoradio-For-Fiat-Fiorino-Qubo-Citroen-Nemo-Peugeot-Bipper-DVD-GPS/32816746998.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.432a4c4dpcvFnn
Thank you!
greetings
Gerald
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The HU came with a canbus unit?
Have you tried "Key Study" on Factory settings? if the SWC keys dont are under canbus controll you can intercept a program key functions here.
P.S.: Also you are wrong about resistive QUBO SWC: all FIAT cars/van after 2010 are all Canbus controlled and in your case all QUBO year 2011 > are canbus controlled, italian models not sure for german versions.
Hope that help

yes, it was a CAN bus box, but it did not work with it.
Therefore, we have the radio connected directly, awie said the ISO plug all voltages and signals directly out.
The on-board system does not even specify a radio, the "old Punto" built in 2011 was different.
According to statement FIAT and original radio manufacturers have all Qubo from year of construction 07/2016 in ISO plug no CAN bus.
From 07/2016, the Daiichi M3003 was installed as a multimedia radio and that can not do anything with CAN.
Is there a possibility to convert the resistance values into CAN telegram?
In order then to convert in a further step into a radio-suitable signal?
greetings
Gerald

gerald_FS said:
yes, it was a CAN bus box, but it did not work with it.
Therefore, we have the radio connected directly, awie said the ISO plug all voltages and signals directly out.
The on-board system does not even specify a radio, the "old Punto" built in 2011 was different.
According to statement FIAT and original radio manufacturers have all Qubo from year of construction 07/2016 in ISO plug no CAN bus.
From 07/2016, the Daiichi M3003 was installed as a multimedia radio and that can not do anything with CAN.
Is there a possibility to convert the resistance values into CAN telegram?
In order then to convert in a further step into a radio-suitable signal?
greetings
Gerald
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try connect you canbus decoder box to HU, then go to factory settings and select "NO" in canbus type menu.
Check if SWC are working.
But before doing this have you tried Key Study on Factory settings?
Also if you old radio is a Blaupunkt for sure has a canbus enabled connector (usually ausiliary connector are above the standard ISO main harness).
There in Italy a lot of car accessories shop sell SWC controll box for QUBO, Fiorino, Croma, Bravo, Punto that retain SWC, Odometric signal, PDC signals, etc etc.; they are "universal box" with a certain number of cable each one for each stereo manufacturer and one special one named "for chineses stereo".
Check this link for FIAT stereos pinout: FIAT Car Radio Stereo Audio Wiring Diagram
P.S.: u need use the only one "key" cable, each one have different volgate range: Key1 or Key2; GND cable need to be connected to any GND in car like any metal part. And after the wires connection you need always use/check the Key Study on factory setting for see if is all working
P.P.S.: another manufacturer suggest this type of connection, check this PDF: Key1Key2GND_Steering wheel.pdf
Hope that help

Hello,
Thanks for the information.
The radio was installed until 07/2016 was a Blaupunkt and it supported directly the CAN-bus control.
From the model upgrade, the Turkish Daiichi M3003 was installed.
From there, the problems start for me.
Attached is my pin layout from the original radio, I currently have the new connected directly and the SWR is as clamped as described in the last description (P.P.S) of you.
At Key1 I measure a voltage of 2.9V and Key2 3.3V.
The menu item for switching off the CAN bus input, there is not in the radio, or I do not think so.

gerald_FS said:
Hello,
Thanks for the information.
The radio was installed until 07/2016 was a Blaupunkt and it supported directly the CAN-bus control.
From the model upgrade, the Turkish Daiichi M3003 was installed.
From there, the problems start for me.
Attached is my pin layout from the original radio, I currently have the new connected directly and the SWR is as clamped as described in the last description (P.P.S) of you.
At Key1 I measure a voltage of 2.9V and Key2 3.3V.
The menu item for switching off the CAN bus input, there is not in the radio, or I do not think so.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
usually +5V are expected for SWC controls, strange...
For Key Study menu and Canbus settings menu go:
HU settings, factory setting, when prompted insert 126 password then ok, on top menu tap on Key study and there try program your keys or tap on Canbus and look for your car model/manufacturer on dropdown list also try "no" options. Remember after any value modification you need fully reboot you HU.
In meantime please tell me the right model of your old car stereo, i can read the pinout from your photo. I will try to find other infos for you.
Can you post some photos of new HU connectors, harness and if present the pinout sticker (the one on first post is unreadable)?

chinaradio.pdf = connection diagram (wiring harness and pin assignment)
connectionplan1.pdf = Pin assignment RNS
pin.jpg = both the original assignment of the plug faced (RNS and car)

gerald_FS said:
chinaradio.pdf = connection diagram (wiring harness and pin assignment)
connectionplan1.pdf = Pin assignment RNS
pin.jpg = both the original assignment of the plug faced (RNS and car)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sticker photo still not working, but for what i see SWR radio pin dont have a correspondance with KEYS wires from new HU. They are "proprietary" im more convinced that you really need a canbus decoder connection/right HU settings.

I have found the following information:
chinaradio.pdf = connection diagram (wiring harness and pin assignment)
connectionplan1.pdf = Pin assignment RNS
pin.jpg = both the original assignment of the plug faced (RNS and car)
can box pinout.pdf = assignment of the CAN box
and the current MCU version 2.92. I got from the manufacturer.

Currently I have SWR right on K1 and SWR left on K2 clamped, the common Masser of the SWR I put additionally on the mass of the RNS.
The CAN box had the following connections from the vehicle
(The occupancy corresponded to the Blaupunkt layout for Fiat Qubo):
Power supply B +
CanA
CanB
to the RNA went out of the box:
ACC
K1
K2
ILL
went to the vehicle:
external amplifier 12V
and antenna 12V
I installed my RNS on a vehicle built in 2012 - everything worked immediately.

gerald_FS said:
Currently I have SWR right on K1 and SWR left on K2 clamped, the common Masser of the SWR I put additionally on the mass of the RNS.
The CAN box had the following connections from the vehicle
(The occupancy corresponded to the Blaupunkt layout for Fiat Qubo):
Power supply B +
CanA
CanB
to the RNA went out of the box:
ACC
K1
K2
ILL
went to the vehicle:
external amplifier 12V
and antenna 12V
I installed my RNS on a vehicle built in 2012 - everything worked immediately.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 2012 vehicle had the same connection of your 2016, for same i mean exactly corresponding cables?
Try set you HU with factory settings menu like i said some post above.

Deleted - answer see next post
greetings
Gerald

Hello,
The old model has a Blaupunkt radio and the correct ISO pin assignment.
In my vehicle there are the differences. we have already described it.
I have a reset to factory settings about 30 minutes ago, he does not need a PIN input and there was no change.
The voltages that I can measure correspond to CanHigh and CanLow levels .... But unfortunately you can not change the hardware.
Likewise, have ever set a resistance between K1 and GND, even that is not recognized.
As I see it, the radio definitely wants a digital signal.
greetings
Gerald

gerald_FS said:
Hello,
The old model has a Blaupunkt radio and the correct ISO pin assignment.
In my vehicle there are the differences. we have already described it.
I have a reset to factory settings about 30 minutes ago, he does not need a PIN input and there was no change.
The voltages that I can measure correspond to CanHigh and CanLow levels .... But unfortunately you can not change the hardware.
Likewise, have ever set a resistance between K1 and GND, even that is not recognized.
As I see it, the radio definitely wants a digital signal.
greetings
Gerald
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont want to be rude, but are you sure about you read?
I asked you do not perform a factory reset, but enter in unit factory settings menu and work with some of features present.
Also if you transplant the unit on an old car model and the HU is working like expected, there only 2 option:
some wires in car harness are different connected or like i said from my first post you need a canbus decoder unit for retain swc.
Now you need to choice trying my maybe working suggestions or follow your understantements or go to a professional installer and pay him for the work.
Now if there is present somebody that want help you, he's welcome!
bye

Sorry, I misunderstood something, or I wrote it wrong
I have the CAN module, re-installed in the wiring harness and there was no change.
Then I made the mistake that I have made a remnant, because I misunderstood you.
The plug in the "old" car model does not match that in my vehicle.
There are several differences:
Year of construction 2012: B +; GND; Antenna control; CanA; CanB
Year of construction 2016: B +; GND; ACC; ILL; SWR left; SWR right; SWR GRP
The radio can not be switched on in the original layout.
At the manufacturer's direction, in the first step, I have ACC; ILL; B + directly through. the CAN decoder module remains in the harness, was with GND; ACC; B + and SWR right and SWR left supplied.
The RNS works except for the steering wheel remote control.
In the further research I am here with the request and hope that there is a solution.

gerald_FS said:
Sorry, I misunderstood something, or I wrote it wrong
I have the CAN module, re-installed in the wiring harness and there was no change.
Then I made the mistake that I have made a remnant, because I misunderstood you.
The plug in the "old" car model does not match that in my vehicle.
There are several differences:
Year of construction 2012: B +; GND; Antenna control; CanA; CanB
Year of construction 2016: B +; GND; ACC; ILL; SWR left; SWR right; SWR GRP
The radio can not be switched on in the original layout.
At the manufacturer's direction, in the first step, I have ACC; ILL; B + directly through. the CAN decoder module remains in the harness, was with GND; ACC; B + and SWR right and SWR left supplied.
The RNS works except for the steering wheel remote control.
In the further research I am here with the request and hope that there is a solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check this: G.M. Production - FA004.2 - Kit recupero CAN BUS comandi al volante FIAT dal 2007

Hello, Did you figure it out by any means?

SWC and CANBUS with Seicane P5 Octacore

Hi everyone,
I am trying to get my steering wheel controls working for my 2013 Volvo XC60. I purchased a P5 unit from Seicane and updated it with HAL9K Mod V4, which made the unit very stable with no issues. The only problem I am having; which I had before the update, is that I cannot get my steering wheel controls to work. The unit came with what looked like a CANBUS connector as part of the harness, but no box. Looking at my Volvo wiring diagram, I only have one wire for steering wheel control. When I connect that wire to KEY 1 or KEY 2 and try to program a button, it randomly ask me to select a function to assign a key.
Going through the wiring, the harness creates a bridge with the wiring harness for the information screen. It bridges off three connectors to the stereo harness and the connector that looks like its for a CANBUS BOX. The three wires are 2 CANBUS lines and a line that goes to the steering wheel remote. Since my vehicle is 2013, I think that i would need a CANBUS decoder box and that the unit should have come with one. Again, if its not needed, the only thing I can think of is bridging the lines from the CANBUS lines & steering wheel control wire that pull from the vehicle directly to the head units 2 CANBUS input lines and the KEY 1.
Sorry if this is confusing. Just seeing if there is something I am missing.
Please let me know if there are any details that I did not provide that would help solve the issue. Thank you.

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