Develop Bugs

Pumpkin unit (Klyde 6.2" RK3066) Canbus problem ..

Hi all,
I am trying to install the above into an Audi A4 which is a canbus vehicle.
I got everything plugged in and it all looked to be working fine but after 2-3 minutes the unit always switches itself off. I have noticed the Canbus adapter always gets very hot as well just before the unit switches off.
Could I have connected something incorrectly for this behaviour to occur?
Thanks

Please be more specific.
Do you have ISO connectors?
The CanBus module should be allready wired to the comnector. It was not? If no, post the wiring diagram received (maybe you feed 12 V in a 5V input?....).
În order to get help post pictures and more info.

Hi. The fitting kit I have used is the following;
http://caraudiosecurity.com/ctkau02-audi-a4-2002-2006-complete-double-din-facia-kit
The Canbus adapter is plugged in via the attachment to the ISO cable.
Let me know if you need any pictures.
Thanks

I'm sure there is no easy way to find the problem.
I would do the following :
First make sure that all pins in all connectors are firmly in their place (see below the example).
Get correct pinout data for all connectors (Car connectors, HU, the adaptor kit and the CanBus module and also the pinout for the old stereo). When searching for the car connectors pinout make sure you find the correct one (year, model, audio system type, etc).
After having all the data you should search for any mismatch (power instead of data, different voltages, etc).
I recomend this beacuase I bumped in a similar problem with my car. I have a Mazda 6 and for the same model and year the car Hu connector differs for the Bose system version and the non Bose version, and the pinout of the adapter and Hu is not taking in consideration this posibility. Therefore I had to cut and reconnect some wires.
And one more thing : when I installed my Hu, some pins slipped out of their slots inside the connectors and my CanBus module was beep-ing constantly and the Hu was not starting at all. I had to use a very thin metal rod to push them back into position (with the connectors plugged in).

Thanks for your help. It turns out a Parrot bluetooth module was installed at some point and they have a good mess with the wiring and piggubacked onto the cars wiring. I am having to use that to power the unit now as it stops it turning off after 3 minutes. My next problem is that I don't have the steering controls option available in the settings menu. Any idea why?

If you are using CanBus you do not need that menu. The Hu has two 5V out and two inputs. If you have non CanBus Swc you need to take the 5V wire, pass it through your Swc and then to the Hu Swc input (the clasic controls usses resistors with different values for each button that atenuates the 5V from the Hu in different values for each button pressed and the Hu read that value through the swv input). So if your 5V wire and Swc input is not connected, you will not have the menu available. Once connected you must first go to factory menu and define each button (see the user manual))

Marmalux said:
If you are using CanBus you do not need that menu. The Hu has two 5V out and two inputs. If you have non CanBus Swc you need to take the 5V wire, pass it through your Swc and then to the Hu Swc input (the clasic controls usses resistors with different values for each button that atenuates the 5V from the Hu in different values for each button pressed and the Hu read that value through the swv input). So if your 5V wire and Swc input is not connected, you will not have the menu available. Once connected you must first go to factory menu and define each button (see the user manual))
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I've attached some pictures to show how the unit is connected to the Canbus adapter.
Key1 5V is connected to its equivalent going to the Canbus adapter.
Key2 5V is as above
GND is as above
Do I have it correct and am I just required to correctly map the buttons now?
Thanks

Still can't get this working.
Should I reset the headunit, update MCU and software or does it look like my wiring is wrong?
Thanks

No one can help you without being there. If you do no have the skills to do it yourself you should go to a electronics service.
As I said, you have to analyze all data. You must get all pin-outs and characteristics for your car.
You must know if your Swc is resistive or Can-bus.
With the car main stereo connectors pinout you will see what you have (resistive Swc, Can-bus wires, external amp signal, etc) and theirs place in the connector.
With the Hu pinout you will know what does the Hu can provide and what pins you should use.
And in your case you have a adapter in the middle, for witch you also need the pinout to make sure that everything is routed correctly.
After you have a clear diagram for your car you must check if fizicaly everything is as it should be.
How to get the pin-outs?
The Hu pinout should be on a sticker on the Hu itself.
For the car connectors you must first decode you vin and get info like year, options, version (usualy a more detailed pinout you find if you search the old stereo pin-out by it's exact make and model).
And for the adapter you must get it from the seller or from the Internet.
You said that before you, someone made modifications to wiring; this is one more reasons to get all informations and make yourself a clear wiring diagram for you to be able to start troubleshooting.
I realy wish I could help more but I can't, and there is nobody else that can give you help without being there to see (otherwise it would allready said sommething)
Best regards!

Newbie needs a little help for KLD unit

Greetings, gurus and fellow users of android head units,
I recently took the plunge and bought myself one of these head units after much browsing of the forums and trying to read up as much as I can. The exact one is shown here: https://world.taobao.com/item/528347515585.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.3Y4Xhq#detail
For those who are unable to view the link/understand Chinese, here are some quick specs:
- 10.1 inch touchscreen, 1024x600 resolution
- RK3188
- 1GB ram, 16GB storage
- Android 5.1.1
- MTCC-KLD6-V2.97 Aug 02 2016 10:35:08
Interestingly, this is only unit I've seen so far that still comes with a DVD slot, plus it comes with an external mic, which pretty much solves the issue of the crappy internal mic that many of you have experienced in the past. Also, apart from 2 USB ports that are connected to the back of the unit, there is another USB port in front, just to the right of the sd card slot and below the DVD slot.
All went well with this head unit, but there are some minor issues that I would like to ask for your help or guidance:
- 3G USB dongle is not stable - If I turn on the unit with the dongle attached first, it does not work at all. If I attach it after the unit completes booting, it sometimes will lose 3G connectivity. I have downloaded the mobile network settings app and removed all but 1 APN. Searching on the forums tell me this should pretty much be a power issue. I'm currently looking around to see if I can find a USB hub that accepts 12V DC power so I can connect to the ACC circuit and see if the issue goes away. If anyone has any other suggestions, please feel free to let me know.
- Custom firmware - I decided to try Malaysk's rom from here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=69114366&postcount=691 however, it didn't work. After updating the firmware from sd card and wiping the data/cache/etc a couple of times, all I got after rebooting the unit was a black screen and an unresponsive status bar. Booting into recovery shows me the "Block device required" message and a bunch of others that I've forgotten. Fortunately, I was able to restore via USB to a newer version of MTCC-KLD6 firmware posted here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=69206883&postcount=165 and everything still works. However, I would still like to try Malaysk's rom, and possibly in the future try 7floor's sound mod.
- Steering wheel control - According to the shop where I went to get my unit installed, my 2007 Subaru Impreza comes with only 1 wire for swc. Using the default Key Study app I was able to map the vol+, vol-, mute, mode, previous ( |< ) and next ( >| ) keys successfully. However, I noticed that sometimes, the keys would not work. Also, the unit sometimes confuses the vol+ and mute signals. Is there anything I can do to make this better?
- Screen dimming - Is there any way to dim the display brightness using the signal from the car's lights? Currently, the soft touch buttons along the left edge of the display will light up automatically when I switch on the headlights, and go dark when I turn the lights off, but the display brightness does not change. End result, I have a screen that is either too bright at night, or too dark during the day.
Many thanks in advance to all who give me suggestions and answers to my questions above. :good:

firefly_hm said:
- 3G USB dongle is not stable - If I turn on the unit with the dongle attached first, it does not work at all. If I attach it after the unit completes booting, it sometimes will lose 3G connectivity. I have downloaded the mobile network settings app and removed all but 1 APN. Searching on the forums tell me this should pretty much be a power issue. I'm currently looking around to see if I can find a USB hub that accepts 12V DC power so I can connect to the ACC circuit and see if the issue goes away. If anyone has any other suggestions, please feel free to let me know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Igave up on using a 3G modem and started using a cheap USB 3G hotspot powered from the lighter socket. The headunit connects to it through WiFi and that's it.
firefly_hm said:
- Custom firmware - I decided to try Malaysk's rom from here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=69114366&postcount=691 however, it didn't work. After updating the firmware from sd card and wiping the data/cache/etc a couple of times, all I got after rebooting the unit was a black screen and an unresponsive status bar. Booting into recovery shows me the "Block device required" message and a bunch of others that I've forgotten. Fortunately, I was able to restore via USB to a newer version of MTCC-KLD6 firmware posted here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=69206883&postcount=165 and everything still works. However, I would still like to try Malaysk's rom, and possibly in the future try 7floor's sound mod.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is with 5.1 recovery. Malaysk's latest 5.1.1 ROM from October 30 uses a 4.4 recovery and can be installed om your unit. You can also try his 4.4 ROM or @dsa8310 5.1.1 ROM
firefly_hm said:
- Steering wheel control - According to the shop where I went to get my unit installed, my 2007 Subaru Impreza comes with only 1 wire for swc. Using the default Key Study app I was able to map the vol+, vol-, mute, mode, previous ( |< ) and next ( >| ) keys successfully. However, I noticed that sometimes, the keys would not work. Also, the unit sometimes confuses the vol+ and mute signals. Is there anything I can do to make this better?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1 wire is pure nonsense. You have a resistive SWC and need 2 wires, one of which is GND. Find the SWC ground wire and make sure it's connected and you'll get rid of these issues.
firefly_hm said:
- Screen dimming - Is there any way to dim the display brightness using the signal from the car's lights? Currently, the soft touch buttons along the left edge of the display will light up automatically when I switch on the headlights, and go dark when I turn the lights off, but the display brightness does not change. End result, I have a screen that is either too bright at night, or too dark during the day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is an Xposed module that will dim the screen based on time of the day.

m00n61 said:
1 wire is pure nonsense. You have a resistive SWC and need 2 wires, one of which is GND. Find the SWC ground wire and make sure it's connected and you'll get rid of these issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed, there are 2 wires. The SWC signal wire is connected to the Key1 wire on the unit and the SWC ground is spliced together with the unit's ground. There is another Key2 wire which presumably is for other makes/models of cars that have 2 SWC signal wires. Our conclusion is that the unit is not sensitive enough to sense the differences between the mute signal and the vol+ signal. All other SWC functions are operating normally though.
Another issue that I forgot to mention earlier, for some reason the GPS apps that I'm using (Waze and Maps.Me) are unable to automatically switch to night mode display of the maps when night comes. Any ideas as to why this is happening?

firefly_hm said:
Indeed, there are 2 wires. The SWC signal wire is connected to the Key1 wire on the unit and the SWC ground is spliced together with the unit's ground. There is another Key2 wire which presumably is for other makes/models of cars that have 2 SWC signal wires. Our conclusion is that the unit is not sensitive enough to sense the differences between the mute signal and the vol+ signal. All other SWC functions are operating normally though.
Another issue that I forgot to mention earlier, for some reason the GPS apps that I'm using (Waze and Maps.Me) are unable to automatically switch to night mode display of the maps when night comes. Any ideas as to why this is happening?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your conclusion is ..., how should I put it? Not right?
Ground key2. It's a resistive matrix for **** sake. It's not a MOS-FET preamp.

m00n61 said:
Your conclusion is ..., how should I put it? Not right?
Ground key2. It's a resistive matrix for **** sake. It's not a MOS-FET preamp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was what I interpreted from your first post - SWC signal to Key1, ground to Key2. However when I tried that, the unit was totally unable to detect any SWC signal at all. On closer inspection of the wires on the unit, both Key1 and Key2 wires were marked as 5V. With SWC signal to Key1 and ground tied to unit ground, I was able to get SWC to work, albeit intermittently.

firefly_hm said:
That was what I interpreted from your first post - SWC signal to Key1, ground to Key2. However when I tried that, the unit was totally unable to detect any SWC signal at all. On closer inspection of the wires on the unit, both Key1 and Key2 wires were marked as 5V. With SWC signal to Key1 and ground tied to unit ground, I was able to get SWC to work, albeit intermittently.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking at the unit pictures it seems it has a CANBUS decoder, which explains Key1 and 2 both marked as 5V. And your car seems to have CANBUS. Not sure if Subaru also used it for SWC though, you will need the schematics. If this is the case you need to enter Factory settings (use 126 as password) and, under the Application tab select the proper CANBUS setting. But then, both wires need to be connected. I presume you did not get a proper harness but the zillions of wires as in the picture so I suggest you get the proper one for your car. It will probably be easier to get a standard ISO wiring for the unit and a ISO/car connector adapter wiring.

m00n61 said:
Looking at the unit pictures it seems it has a CANBUS decoder, which explains Key1 and 2 both marked as 5V. And your car seems to have CANBUS. Not sure if Subaru also used it for SWC though, you will need the schematics. If this is the case you need to enter Factory settings (use 126 as password) and, under the Application tab select the proper CANBUS setting. But then, both wires need to be connected. I presume you did not get a proper harness but the zillions of wires as in the picture so I suggest you get the proper one for your car. It will probably be easier to get a standard ISO wiring for the unit and a ISO/car connector adapter wiring.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've look through the service manual, the SWC controls are connected to the CAN communication system, but I'm not sure how this works. Will research this further, thanks.
In other news, I've managed to get Malaysk's latest firmware running on my unit, like you said it's due to the recovery. Many thanks for that. One thing I've noticed, the blank screen button in the status bar no longer works (The one near the return button on the right, not the screensaver button on the left). Is this normal?
Also, do you have any idea on the navigation apps map night mode issue?

firefly_hm said:
I've look through the service manual, the SWC controls are connected to the CAN communication system, but I'm not sure how this works. Will research this further, thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Something like this should help
firefly_hm said:
In other news, I've managed to get Malaysk's latest firmware running on my unit, like you said it's due to the recovery. Many thanks for that. One thing I've noticed, the blank screen button in the status bar no longer works (The one near the return button on the right, not the screensaver button on the left). Is this normal?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check the mtc-status bar module in xposed (and mtc-statusbar.ini). It could be disabled
firefly_hm said:
Also, do you have any idea on the navigation apps map night mode issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea. Apart from app configuration settings - night mode may be disabled.

firefly_hm said:
That was what I interpreted from your first post - SWC signal to Key1, ground to Key2. However when I tried that, the unit was totally unable to detect any SWC signal at all. On closer inspection of the wires on the unit, both Key1 and Key2 wires were marked as 5V. With SWC signal to Key1 and ground tied to unit ground, I was able to get SWC to work, albeit intermittently.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I have seen of the MCU code itself, I don't think that Key2 is meant to be a ground reference for Key1. They are both handled the same way in the code -- as separate analog inputs. When they change and become stable, the MCU sends a message to the Android cpu. So if Key2 is being used as a reference it has to be happening on the Android side of things. Looks to me far more likely that Key2 is just used for cars with more than one resistive ladder.
If your SWC keys work but are sometimes unreliable, you might try placing a small bypass capacitor across key1 to key ground. This will smooth out the signal presented to the analog input. The best value would depend on the resistance in the ladder itself, so all you can do is try some values to see if something helps. I would start with something like a .1uF or .22uF bypass cap just because they are fast and cheap. If the value is too small it will not help, & if too large the key response time may become slow. You may also have to "teach" your HU the new key values again. Might be worth a try anyway.

m00n61 said:
Check the mtc-status bar module in xposed (and mtc-statusbar.ini). It could be disabled
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've checked the mtc-statusbar.ini, there is no mention of this function. I'll try asking over at Malaysk's thread, but I'm afraid he might not be able to help much as well since he doesn't have a 1024x600 unit and he announced that he will be retiring.
m00n61 said:
No idea. Apart from app configuration settings - night mode may be disabled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Night mode is set to auto in the navigation apps. However, they do not switch to night mode at all. Manually setting them to night mode works, but the maps become too dark for use during the day.
dhmsjs said:
From what I have seen of the MCU code itself, I don't think that Key2 is meant to be a ground reference for Key1. They are both handled the same way in the code -- as separate analog inputs. When they change and become stable, the MCU sends a message to the Android cpu. So if Key2 is being used as a reference it has to be happening on the Android side of things. Looks to me far more likely that Key2 is just used for cars with more than one resistive ladder.
If your SWC keys work but are sometimes unreliable, you might try placing a small bypass capacitor across key1 to key ground. This will smooth out the signal presented to the analog input. The best value would depend on the resistance in the ladder itself, so all you can do is try some values to see if something helps. I would start with something like a .1uF or .22uF bypass cap just because they are fast and cheap. If the value is too small it will not help, & if too large the key response time may become slow. You may also have to "teach" your HU the new key values again. Might be worth a try anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the suggestion. Based on what I've found, the ladder for my car looks something like this:
No buttons pressed: Approx. 4.7k ohms
Mute: Approx 22 ohms
Vol+: Approx 90 ohms
Vol-: Approx 200 ohms
Mode: Approx 360 ohms
Seek >: Approx 690 ohms
Seek <: Approx 1.5k ohms
My colleague has suggested that perhaps 22 ohms is too little for the unit to sense properly and adding a resister of say 500 ohms to Key1 may solve the issue.

firefly_hm said:
Based on what I've found, the ladder for my car looks something like this:
No buttons pressed: Approx. 4.7k ohms
Mute: Approx 22 ohms
Vol+: Approx 90 ohms
Vol-: Approx 200 ohms
Mode: Approx 360 ohms
Seek >: Approx 690 ohms
Seek <: Approx 1.5k ohms
My colleague has suggested that perhaps 22 ohms is too little for the unit to sense properly and adding a resister of say 500 ohms to Key1 may solve the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
firefly_hm said:
I've look through the service manual, the SWC controls are connected to the CAN communication system, but I'm not sure how this works. Will research this further, thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your SWC is through CAN BUS then it is not a resistive ladder.
Maybe you should start here to understand how this works.

m00n61 said:
If your SWC is through CAN BUS then it is not a resistive ladder.
Maybe you should start here to understand how this works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the diagram that is shown in the service manual for my car. As you can see, it is a resistive latter, and it is also connected to CAN:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

firefly_hm said:
This is the diagram that is shown in the service manual for my car. As you can see, it is a resistive latter, and it is also connected to CAN:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The fact that both the SWC wires and the CAN BUS module connect to the audio board doesn't mean SWC is connected to CAN BUS. Anyway, have fun with your unit.

firefly_hm said:
...Thanks for the suggestion. Based on what I've found, the ladder for my car looks something like this:
No buttons pressed: Approx. 4.7k ohms
Mute: Approx 22 ohms
Vol+: Approx 90 ohms
Vol-: Approx 200 ohms
Mode: Approx 360 ohms
Seek >: Approx 690 ohms
Seek <: Approx 1.5k ohms
My colleague has suggested that perhaps 22 ohms is too little for the unit to sense properly and adding a resister of say 500 ohms to Key1 may solve the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here are some more details about the SWC algorithm that may help your colleague. This is based on what I see in the MTCB-KLD2-V2.77 MCU, but is also true in MTCC-KLD6-V2.91 as far as I have seen, so I suspect it is common to most MTCB & MTCC MCUs.
The MTCD MCU is a different processor altogether so this does not necessarily apply to those.
The A to D converter is 10 bits with a voltage range of 0 to 3.3v. Conversions are triggered every 1.1 mSec and each conversion takes about 49uSec. To accommodate a wide range of ladder impedance, the MCU sequentially applies 3 different bias currents to the ladder and reads the voltage present with each one. It adds the 3 readings together to form a composite value. Three of these composite readings are averaged together to form the final value, and to detect stability of the signal. The 3 bias levels are
With key bias 1 and 2 both off:
Key 1 input pulled up to 3.3v with 22k
Key 2 input pulled up to 3.3v with 22k
With key bias 1 on:
Add 2.2k pullup to Key 1 input
Add 2.2k pullup to Key 2 input
With key bias 2 on:
Add 470 ohm pullup to key 1 input
Add 470 ohm pullup to key 2 input

MTCD schematic

Found - MTCD Schematic. A most valuable find on russian android car audio forum and attached here.
[Android Car Audio]
The schematic corresponds to a GS Mainboard I have as a spare part. It varies to my JY board in terms of USB operation, with this board OTG is provided for.

This is ridiculously helpful, regardless of what MTCD manufacturer you have. I've had to replace MOSFET's and internally shorted caps in my KGL before, and having a general reference like this would have made the process so much quicker. Cheers!

MbTaNk16 said:
This is ridiculously helpful, regardless of what MTCD manufacturer you have. I've had to replace MOSFET's and internally shorted caps in my KGL before, and having a general reference like this would have made the process so much quicker. Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed! I was astounded to find this. Unfortunately I still wasnt able to get my PX5 board to go into maskrom for OTG flashing, but is probably something I am not doing right. Schematic is absolutely valid and is spot on for MTCD GS.
18/07 - Was able to put PX5 into OTG [LOADER] mode after modifying board.

Thanks @cupi1234

marchnz said:
Anyone with a 4pda account - can you please try and download and attach here - http://4pda.ru/forum/dl/post/9567228/MTCD++Witson-A510-2016-04-28+V01.pdf
[MTCD Witson-A510-2016-04-28+V01.pdf - 4PDA]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
witson

Hi, does somebody knows the wiring of the PB76FSAP-S, an MTCD from Ownice (C500). I am trying to connect a OTS020 tpms to port F. The OTS020 has 4 wires, +, gnd, data and something else. I want to know how the unit supplies power and wich pins are used for data.
Thanks.

747 Driver said:
Hi, does somebody knows the wiring of the PB76FSAP-S, an MTCD from Ownice (C500). I am trying to connect a OTS020 tpms to port F. The OTS020 has 4 wires, +, gnd, data and something else. I want to know how the unit supplies power and wich pins are used for data.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Ownice C500 is not an MTCD unit. Ownice dont make MTCD units, their units are of an entirely different design with totally incompatible software.

Source for Raw Audio Output?
Looking at this schematic on page 10, it appears that the section labeled 'ARM' would be the interface connector from the Android board to the MCU Board.
Following @dazza007 's and @7floor 's posts below, it looks like the raw audio output from the Android Board is available at pins 12 and 13. Without a schematic of the Android Board I can't be sure, but I assume that these should trace back to pins 12 and 13 from the WM8731 Audio Codec chip.
If I'm correct and we could harness these raw line level audio outputs it could give the people that were looking for a clean feed for DSP's and the like.
Full disclosure, I do not have one of these units yet but am looking at a GCS Apex branded unit that appears to be a MTCD KLD model per the merchant website pictures. http://www.subispeed.com/2013-crosstrek/interior/audio-stereo-upgrades/gcs-apex-android-v2-head-unit-w-gps-2013-2016-forester-crosstrek#.WgRiFFuPLIU
dazz007
https://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/mtcb-hardware-development/mtc-sound-controlling-bd37xxx-sound-t3234660
7floor
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=63520630

typos1 said:
The Ownice C500 is not an MTCD unit. Ownice dont make MTCD units, their units are of an entirely different design with totally incompatible software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please enlighten me. It says MTCD in the settings, I have a GS v 2.56 running.
What type of unit is it? According Xtrons it is a PB-76FSFAP-S. What type is it (MCT/B/C/D/E?)
Thanks

747 Driver said:
Please enlighten me. It says MTCD in the settings, I have a GS v 2.56 running.
What type of unit is it? According Xtrons it is a PB-76FSFAP-S. What type is it (MCT/B/C/D/E?)
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it says "MTCD GS" in the MCU field then you have a GS MCD unit.
Xtrons are simply resellers - they buy units from various manufacturers and then give them made up model numbers.
Ownice are an entirely different company that make entirley different units.

i have a GS PX5 Android 6.0 ( now migrated to Oreo) unit, i'd like to know if this board have USB OTG port.
I need to connect a USB/SPDIF Converter , the Matrix X-SPDIF2, and it is Android 8 certified for USB OTG port.

PX5 MX2 Unit No RESET
Hey guys,
I'm half offtopic here, but my thing has to do with the schematics / HW mod (can't open topics due to low post count..)
Just recently bought a replacement for my Opel Astra J '12 and ..
It's a MX PX5 4GB Oreo sold by Witson.
This HU is very specific, because it comes in two parts.
1. Silverbox with the MCU and sockets + 2. Display board with SD slot
My point writing here is, that it doesn't have a reset hole - Oh well yea it has, but behind it there's nothing to push
Desperate as I am, I wanna have a reset button to enter recovery and .. well - if it gets stuck, to recover.
As the silverbox will be behind the dash, my only option would be the display board, where I found two connectors having a PIN def for RST_KEY and now I need instructions how to do the cabling, as I'm not sure how to achieve the reset function.
RST_KEY + GND ?
OTG? Found a little connecter not having a corresponding plug (white 8PIN in IMG_2613)
-> Pictures
abload.de/gallery.php?key=sNOKaV7R
Would be cool if you guys help me out
BR X

Hey Xorit,
I guess you've got the v5754 unit.
The reset line won't help you for recovery, I tried the same and reset is only a hard reset.
I've soldered a cable to key1, gnd and led8v on the display part (under the back cover), put a plug on the end and placed it in the glove department.
I then made a small pcb with a tactile switch connecting key1 - gnd and a 12v led on led8v and gnd, with this you'll be able to enter recovery by holding the button until the led flashes 3 times and then stays on,
Releasing it for a second and the keep on pressing, releasing, pressing for a couple of times.
I'm not sure if you're able to flash any custom rom because the sd slot on these units is a USB converted and not a gps slot.
Btw. I flashed mine with a custom rom by extracting the board, placing it in a xtrons model and then puting it back.

Thanks for that super helpful post!
Just ordered the needed components
Yep, indeed the V5754.
Dunno why they didnt wire any of those support keys.
Thanks mate!
bunnymc said:
Hey Xorit,
I guess you've got the v5754 unit.
The reset line won't help you for recovery, I tried the same and reset is only a hard reset.
I've soldered a cable to key1, gnd and led8v on the display part (under the back cover), put a plug on the end and placed it in the glove department.
I then made a small pcb with a tactile switch connecting key1 - gnd and a 12v led on led8v and gnd, with this you'll be able to enter recovery by holding the button until the led flashes 3 times and then stays on,
Releasing it for a second and the keep on pressing, releasing, pressing for a couple of times.
I'm not sure if you're able to flash any custom rom because the sd slot on these units is a USB converted and not a gps slot.
Btw. I flashed mine with a custom rom by extracting the board, placing it in a xtrons model and then puting it back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

got it working with ur directions!
the button mutes on single press, so it might be possible that the mute button on the steering wheel will do the same..would be weird tho.
might be helpfull for those who have no reset button either!
that new button selects options on single press in recovery and activates on long press, just like the normal reset hole.
->
on the display board you have two flat flexi cable connectors (not in use), where there are pin outs for usb + led + 2 keys.
thanks again!

Hey i have one Question. It says u can Solder it directly to the SOM or with a Flexible flat Cable. I have on my Unit the SOM and this is connectet to the Bigger Board. On this Bigger board i have 2 Flat Flex Connectors. Can i use them for this method?! And if yes wich one is the Right flat connector and where to get a flexible Band cable!? Would help me much if someone helps me because i have done the USB OTG Cable mod and now i have no Recovery and no USB anymore so i can not flash anything. I tried flashing in Android an MCU update but it does not do. Downloaded all to the units internal storage.
Greetz Tom

Nice I'm glad that it did the trick for you
The mute button from your steering wheel won't work because it's connected via canbus (same as cd3/4/600 button panel).
The mute from the soldered button is just a setting in the firmware (you could change it with the steering wheel button assignment settings to whatever you want.
I also added 2 more tactile switches to the key1 line with different resistors (resistor ladder) to be able to use them as hardware buttons (e.g. Vol up/down and power) but haven't had the chance to test it yet.
Xorit said:
got it working with ur directions!
the button mutes on single press, so it might be possible that the mute button on the steering wheel will do the same..would be weird tho.
might be helpfull for those who have no reset button either!
that new button selects options on single press in recovery and activates on long press, just like the normal reset hole.
->
on the display board you have two flat flexi cable connectors (not in use), where there are pin outs for usb + led + 2 keys.
thanks again!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Still in the wrong forum !!

typos1 said:
Still in the wrong forum !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I reported - post gone.

CANBUS help with DY7098 and Peugeot 307

Hello, I'm trying to install a Zeepin DY7098 in a Peugeot 307 that have CANbus and onboard computer... I want install without lose computer funcions... I searched many many many time, in many topics and I not understand if I need a canbus box decoder or can I install direct...
MCU is LM

Please, I really need some help

totynho said:
Hello, I'm trying to install a Zeepin DY7098 in a Peugeot 307 that have CANbus and onboard computer... I want install without lose computer funcions... I searched many many many time, in many topics and I not understand if I need a canbus box decoder or can I install direct...
MCU is LM
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Zeepin DY7098 is an "universal 2DIN Head unit" i dont think canbus is an option but you can ask at your seller for it. For "full canbus" i think, you need a custom Peugeot 307 Head Unit
I found this infos on italian DME website:
"For peugeot vehicles (eg 3008/5008) that mount the on-board computer display just above the car radio (see photo below), you must purchase the kit (code KITPEU3008 / 5008) necessary to restore the information that this display - during the installation of the car radio - will be permanently removed. Warning: the information on the car radio is restored in English and it is not possible to translate it into Italian. KITPEU3008 / 5008 kit can be ordered at the time of purchase. (for eBay customers just request it when ordering)."
Articles code are for DME Peugeot Android Head unit. I think same is for your unit.

iRcKenny said:
Zeepin DY7098 is an "universal 2DIN Head unit" i dont think canbus is an option but you can ask at your seller for it. For "full canbus" i think, you need a custom Peugeot 307 Head Unit
I found this infos on italian DME website:
"For peugeot vehicles (eg 3008/5008) that mount the on-board computer display just above the car radio (see photo below), you must purchase the kit (code KITPEU3008 / 5008) necessary to restore the information that this display - during the installation of the car radio - will be permanently removed. Warning: the information on the car radio is restored in English and it is not possible to translate it into Italian. KITPEU3008 / 5008 kit can be ordered at the time of purchase. (for eBay customers just request it when ordering)."
Articles code are for DME Peugeot Android Head unit. I think same is for your unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the problem, I asked to seller and he don't know nothing about canbus... I sent message to manufactor and he sent me a canbus box from ConnectS2 CTSPG007.2 but I don't understand if is only for steering wheel control or I can use full canbus features...

totynho said:
This is the problem, I asked to seller and he don't know nothing about canbus... I sent message to manufactor and he sent me a canbus box from ConnectS2 CTSPG007.2 but I don't understand if is only for steering wheel control or I can use full canbus features...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Directly from Connects2 Ltd website (with a simple google search):
Description
Peugeot Steering Wheel Control Interface
Features & Benefits
Allows you to upgrade to an aftermarket head unit whilst maintaining use of your factory steering wheel controls
Safety: Allows you to keep your hands on the steering wheel and eyes on the road.
Plug and play, no cutting of wires required
Maintains the original features of the vehicle such as date, time and temperature display
Choose the relevant head unit connection lead according to the make of aftermarket head unit you wish to fit
For interfaces where phone buttons are supported, the following brands allow pick up/hang up in Bluetooth mode: Alpine, Clarion, Kenwood, Pioneer and Zenec. Please see icon list below to see if this interface supports phone buttons.
Please check the connections in the vehicle match the harness you are purchasing
This product has been developed through carefully documented data and research. Connects2 Ltd. cannot be held responsible for discrepancies/inconsistencies that may occur due to vehicle manufacturing changes or options, or damage that may occur in the vehicle during the installation of components. All application data is subject to change.
Simply try it and verify if it work like expected.

iRcKenny said:
Directly from Connects2 Ltd website (with a simple google search):
Description
Peugeot Steering Wheel Control Interface
Features & Benefits
Allows you to upgrade to an aftermarket head unit whilst maintaining use of your factory steering wheel controls
Safety: Allows you to keep your hands on the steering wheel and eyes on the road.
Plug and play, no cutting of wires required
Maintains the original features of the vehicle such as date, time and temperature display
Choose the relevant head unit connection lead according to the make of aftermarket head unit you wish to fit
For interfaces where phone buttons are supported, the following brands allow pick up/hang up in Bluetooth mode: Alpine, Clarion, Kenwood, Pioneer and Zenec. Please see icon list below to see if this interface supports phone buttons.
Please check the connections in the vehicle match the harness you are purchasing
This product has been developed through carefully documented data and research. Connects2 Ltd. cannot be held responsible for discrepancies/inconsistencies that may occur due to vehicle manufacturing changes or options, or damage that may occur in the vehicle during the installation of components. All application data is subject to change.
Simply try it and verify if it work like expected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I'm not expressing myself right. In internet, we can see some videos where some person control A/C on Android Headunit, can see car info like belts, lights, temperature, without use any OBDII, just with CAN connection... Is this what I'm searching understand how it works...

totynho said:
I think I'm not expressing myself right. In internet, we can see some videos where some person control A/C on Android Headunit, can see car info like belts, lights, temperature, without use any OBDII, just with CAN connection... Is this what I'm searching understand how it works...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For what i know all these functions are controlled by CANBUS decoder/box (the one specified for vehicle brand and model) connected to Head unit: you can see the doors status (open/close), check A/C functions, etc. etc. CanBus box/decoder make all the job.
Cant help anymore.

SWC and CANBUS with Seicane P5 Octacore

Hi everyone,
I am trying to get my steering wheel controls working for my 2013 Volvo XC60. I purchased a P5 unit from Seicane and updated it with HAL9K Mod V4, which made the unit very stable with no issues. The only problem I am having; which I had before the update, is that I cannot get my steering wheel controls to work. The unit came with what looked like a CANBUS connector as part of the harness, but no box. Looking at my Volvo wiring diagram, I only have one wire for steering wheel control. When I connect that wire to KEY 1 or KEY 2 and try to program a button, it randomly ask me to select a function to assign a key.
Going through the wiring, the harness creates a bridge with the wiring harness for the information screen. It bridges off three connectors to the stereo harness and the connector that looks like its for a CANBUS BOX. The three wires are 2 CANBUS lines and a line that goes to the steering wheel remote. Since my vehicle is 2013, I think that i would need a CANBUS decoder box and that the unit should have come with one. Again, if its not needed, the only thing I can think of is bridging the lines from the CANBUS lines & steering wheel control wire that pull from the vehicle directly to the head units 2 CANBUS input lines and the KEY 1.
Sorry if this is confusing. Just seeing if there is something I am missing.
Please let me know if there are any details that I did not provide that would help solve the issue. Thank you.