Develop Bugs

Pumpkin unit (Klyde 6.2" RK3066) Canbus problem ..

Hi all,
I am trying to install the above into an Audi A4 which is a canbus vehicle.
I got everything plugged in and it all looked to be working fine but after 2-3 minutes the unit always switches itself off. I have noticed the Canbus adapter always gets very hot as well just before the unit switches off.
Could I have connected something incorrectly for this behaviour to occur?
Thanks

Please be more specific.
Do you have ISO connectors?
The CanBus module should be allready wired to the comnector. It was not? If no, post the wiring diagram received (maybe you feed 12 V in a 5V input?....).
În order to get help post pictures and more info.

Hi. The fitting kit I have used is the following;
http://caraudiosecurity.com/ctkau02-audi-a4-2002-2006-complete-double-din-facia-kit
The Canbus adapter is plugged in via the attachment to the ISO cable.
Let me know if you need any pictures.
Thanks

I'm sure there is no easy way to find the problem.
I would do the following :
First make sure that all pins in all connectors are firmly in their place (see below the example).
Get correct pinout data for all connectors (Car connectors, HU, the adaptor kit and the CanBus module and also the pinout for the old stereo). When searching for the car connectors pinout make sure you find the correct one (year, model, audio system type, etc).
After having all the data you should search for any mismatch (power instead of data, different voltages, etc).
I recomend this beacuase I bumped in a similar problem with my car. I have a Mazda 6 and for the same model and year the car Hu connector differs for the Bose system version and the non Bose version, and the pinout of the adapter and Hu is not taking in consideration this posibility. Therefore I had to cut and reconnect some wires.
And one more thing : when I installed my Hu, some pins slipped out of their slots inside the connectors and my CanBus module was beep-ing constantly and the Hu was not starting at all. I had to use a very thin metal rod to push them back into position (with the connectors plugged in).

Thanks for your help. It turns out a Parrot bluetooth module was installed at some point and they have a good mess with the wiring and piggubacked onto the cars wiring. I am having to use that to power the unit now as it stops it turning off after 3 minutes. My next problem is that I don't have the steering controls option available in the settings menu. Any idea why?

If you are using CanBus you do not need that menu. The Hu has two 5V out and two inputs. If you have non CanBus Swc you need to take the 5V wire, pass it through your Swc and then to the Hu Swc input (the clasic controls usses resistors with different values for each button that atenuates the 5V from the Hu in different values for each button pressed and the Hu read that value through the swv input). So if your 5V wire and Swc input is not connected, you will not have the menu available. Once connected you must first go to factory menu and define each button (see the user manual))

Marmalux said:
If you are using CanBus you do not need that menu. The Hu has two 5V out and two inputs. If you have non CanBus Swc you need to take the 5V wire, pass it through your Swc and then to the Hu Swc input (the clasic controls usses resistors with different values for each button that atenuates the 5V from the Hu in different values for each button pressed and the Hu read that value through the swv input). So if your 5V wire and Swc input is not connected, you will not have the menu available. Once connected you must first go to factory menu and define each button (see the user manual))
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I've attached some pictures to show how the unit is connected to the Canbus adapter.
Key1 5V is connected to its equivalent going to the Canbus adapter.
Key2 5V is as above
GND is as above
Do I have it correct and am I just required to correctly map the buttons now?
Thanks

Still can't get this working.
Should I reset the headunit, update MCU and software or does it look like my wiring is wrong?
Thanks

No one can help you without being there. If you do no have the skills to do it yourself you should go to a electronics service.
As I said, you have to analyze all data. You must get all pin-outs and characteristics for your car.
You must know if your Swc is resistive or Can-bus.
With the car main stereo connectors pinout you will see what you have (resistive Swc, Can-bus wires, external amp signal, etc) and theirs place in the connector.
With the Hu pinout you will know what does the Hu can provide and what pins you should use.
And in your case you have a adapter in the middle, for witch you also need the pinout to make sure that everything is routed correctly.
After you have a clear diagram for your car you must check if fizicaly everything is as it should be.
How to get the pin-outs?
The Hu pinout should be on a sticker on the Hu itself.
For the car connectors you must first decode you vin and get info like year, options, version (usualy a more detailed pinout you find if you search the old stereo pin-out by it's exact make and model).
And for the adapter you must get it from the seller or from the Internet.
You said that before you, someone made modifications to wiring; this is one more reasons to get all informations and make yourself a clear wiring diagram for you to be able to start troubleshooting.
I realy wish I could help more but I can't, and there is nobody else that can give you help without being there to see (otherwise it would allready said sommething)
Best regards!

Pumpkin Head unit dead by wiring fault. Any chances to recover it?

Hi,
i have a pumpkin HU (Model: RK3066, Dual Core, 800x600, KLD2 MCU) for my 2007 Audi A4
It now ran great with Malaysk root etc.
But yesterday i installed a rear view cam. After hours of routing the cable from back of my car to the front, i couldn´t wait to plug it in and try it.
But i only had the chinch input available. There was no available cable for the cam to switch on. So i had no idea where to connect the cable of rear parking lights.
On the wiring label on the head unit it says, there should be an orange cable for that.
But the only orange cable i found, already was plugged into the CAN-Bus adapter box.
So i thought, maybe it not needed to connect this cable, maybe the radio get the "switch on cam" signal from CAN bus.
But it didn´t.
It didn´t work at all (and yes, i enabled the rear-view cam in the settings.. that wasn´t the problem)
So i tried to connect my parking light cable to the pink "brake" cable, which also didn´t work.
And then i tried it with the only one left available cable. It was a white one, and since then... My head unit is dead...
Screen keeps beeing black.
No chance to turn it on again. holding Reset and Power buttons does not help either.
I know, this was very stupid! But i was so frustrated after all those hours disassembling the whole car, i just wanted to get it to work finally.
So i tried things without thinking...
(afterwards i found out, the solution would have been, to cut the orange/black cable that leads to the CAN-bus adapter and connect my parking light cable there. But now its too late)
Anyhow...
Does anyone have an idea what could be blown by this action? isn´t there any internal protection against short circuits?
Is it completely dead, or is there a simple way to bring it back to live?
thats the current status:
- I have checked all my car circuit breakers - all are OK
- if i connect the power harnees to the head unit, there is a short "beep"
- if i hold the power botton for a few seconds, there are three short "beep" "beep" "beep"
- the dvd-drive does work. So it ejects CDs without problems.
- also i can hear the fan of the head unit, once ignition is on.
but the screen keeps beeing black.
Any ideas, how i could get it to work again?
Or do i need to get a new one?
many thanks!

You should have powered your rear view camera from your backup tail lights and be done with it, but too late for that.
Now two critical pieces of information are missing from your post:
1. What is the label of the unit's white cable that you connected and caused it to stop working? (All the cables coming out of the unit are labeled.)
2. What did you connect the white cable to? (+12V, ground or what?)

I should have used my brain, then nothing would have gone wrong
The cable i tried to connect is the +12V from the tail lights.
This needs to be connected with the head unit to enable the rear-view screen.
The white cable isn´t labeled, nor its shown on the wiring diagram label that is attached on my unit.
Therefore i just gave it a try, as there was no other free cable available. (i can punsch myself now, for that stupid try)
I will take a photo of this white cable and the associated pin on the connector.
Maybe someone has an idea what this is usually used for, and what could be damaged now.

Do you have similar picture? (This is the one for my unit). The sticker on top of the unit has a label for every single pin on every single port that comes out of the unit. Maybe you should look there. You can see my sticker on the very top of the picture below.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Hi,
as i am a new user, i am not allowed to post photos.
Can i send it to you via message and you post it?
would be great

Sure, but you also need to specify the exact model. It is cut from the first picture and without that it will not be possible to find a pin-out diagram of the main port. All I can see is KD-C1*****. What are the letters after that?

C-V-T said:
Sure, but you also need to specify the exact model. It is cut from the first picture and without that it will not be possible to find a pin-out diagram of the main port. All I can see is KD-C1*****. What are the letters after that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its a KD-C1214
(Model: RK3066, Dual Core, 800x600, KLD2 MCU)
my thinking is, i might burned some internal module or chip, that switches on the display.
As said, the fan is working, also i get "beeps" if i push the reset button.
But no matter, what i try, the display keeps being black.

Ok, this exact thing happens (booting with black screen) when the CAN bus box is not connected. So there is a chance that you have only burned your box. One thing you can try is to see if this white wire is directly connected through the unit to any of the wires of the CAN bus box. Just get a multi-meter, disconnect the CAN bus box and check for a direct connection between the white wire and any of the wires going into it (with the cable plugged in to the unit of course).
Otherwise I cannot tell what this white wire is - its not on any of the diagrams I could find. Maybe its worth a shot to ask Pumpkin.
This is your unit as far as I could tell: http://www.autopumpkin.com/pumpkin-best-7-pure-android-4-4-kitkat-plug-and-play-car-stereo-support-gps-can-bus-3g-wifi-obd2-for-audi-a4-2003-2008.html
Here are your pictures:
this one shows the wiring-label on my head unit:
http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31416762/DSC_4852_1.jpg.html
This one shows my cable coming from the tail-lights (+12V) http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31416770/DSC_4855.jpg.html
Here you can see all available free cable leads:
http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31416783/DSC_4858.jpg.html
And here, the pin location of those free leads:
http://www.pic-upload.de/view-31416787/DSC_4859.jpg.html

Ok, i did check those wires:
The white one does not "beep" with any cable on the (disconnected) can connector
But it does "beep" with four cables there, if the Can adapter box is connected:
With black
With green
With orange
With blue (but here only very short like every 3-5. Seconds)

Also:
There is +0,5V on this white cable, no matter if ignition is on or off, if CAN Box is disconnected.
And there is +2,2V on it, if Can box is connected + ignition is on

If it is not connected directly to any of the cables doing into the CAN bus box, it's unlikely that you have damaged the CAN bus box.
Ask the manufacturer to tell you what is the wire for.
If you cannot get it from them maybe it's a good idea to open it and see exactly where the pin of this wire leads to. The unit is built with "over the counter" standard IC chips and components.

I don't know, if this makes any sense... But this white cable leads to the IR sensor on the Front dash board...
How could this break my head unit???!?
Ok, thats too much for my brain today..

i now have attached photos of the pin of the IR sensor, where that white cable leads to.
its the lower pin of the IR-Sensor.
The middle pin of the IR-Sensor is ground.
And the upper pin is.... ?! i have no idea.
But anyhow...
Could a blown IR-Sensor prevent my head unit from booting?

Yes, this makes a lot of sense. I guess they provided the white wire so you can attach an external IR sensor.
The IR sensor itself is just a photo-cell that produces a small voltage when you shine light on it. Putting +12V across if would definitely have burned it. But it is also connected to an IC chip that interprets its signal and talks to the main CPU. My guess is the CPU halts while booting as soon as it fails to talk to it. This chip would have burned it as well, so you have to find it too. It would be connected to the IR sensor either directly or through a resistor. (Most likely its through a resistor in order to limit the current and protect the chip.) This connection (the one the white wire is connected to) would not terminate anywhere else, except in this chip. Look for a fairly small chip, not more than 20 pins, maybe fewer.
Once you find it, take a picture so the writing on it is visible. It would not be hard to get a replacement, since they are standard and are present in every device that has a remote control. If you are having trouble finding it, just open your remote and then look for a chip with the same manufacturer as the chips in the remote to narrow the search.
There is a chance you only burned the IR sensor if the current limiting resistor was high enough to handle 12 volts, but I doubt it. You can unsolder the IR sensor and try to boot without it. Also once unsoldered you can test it by shining a flashlight on it. It would produce a voltage between the pin that was connected to ground and the pin that was connected to the white wire. But again I don't see how the chip that interprets its signals would have survived a +12V on its input pin. The voltage the IR sensor produces is around 1V at best.
Also look for writings on the IR sensor. Without those I have no idea how to find a replacement. Both the IR sensor and its chip would cost cents to replace, the challenge is identifying them.
If you are having trouble finding it with a multimeter, you can always lookup the various chips on Google. For example from one of your pictures I can see that one of the chips is WM8731. A quick Google search tells me that this is your audio chip + CODEC provider: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/76/WM8731_v4.9-532414.pdf

great thanks for the help and patience so far.
here are my findings:
The IR-photodiode has some letters on it:
"CHOE" or "CHQE"
here is a picture of IR-photodiode Pins:
and through some resistors, it leads to 3 pins of this IC:
i tried to google this chip, but only got to a chinese homepage with malware warnings...

oh wait, sorry.
that was too quick....
This other end of the R21 resistor leads to like everywhere. Maybe this is some kind of common 5V supply or something??!
So the burned component could also be like everywhere else, isn´t it?!
I guess i need to find the source of this common supply.
But this could also be the main MTC. This is also somehow connected. I have highlighted this with the blue lines in the attached photo.... those blue lines lead to some pins the RK3066 MTC
My hopes are getting smaller and smaller, to be able to get it to work again...

Pedaaa said:
oh wait, sorry.
that was too quick....
This other end of the R21 resistor leads to like everywhere. Maybe this is some kind of common 5V supply or something??!
So the burned component could also be like everywhere else, isn´t it?!
I guess i need to find the source of this common supply.
But this could also be the main MTC. This is also somehow connected. I have highlighted this with the blue lines in the attached photo.... those blue lines lead to some pins the RK3066 MTC
My hopes are getting smaller and smaller, to be able to get it to work again...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a different model (KD-CO235) -- no can bus. It has a brown wire for steering wheel key sensing in place of your white wire, so it is obviously quite different. However the main board looks nearly identical and includes the same R21. My main board is marked KD-HCT-MB 2015/07/18 Rev-3.1 1535 and also uses KLD2 firmware. Here's what I have:
1) R21 is 100 ohms
2) One side of R21 connects only to one pin on the CN3 ribbon connector that goes to my 8133 CPU.
3) The other side of R21 connects to V3.3, the Vcc power source for the MCU (that's the square chip marked with "IAP").
So I think you can bet that your "common supply" is the 3.3 volts for MCU power. If your white wire really does connect to the right side of R21 as you said, then you probably fed 12 volts (at least) onto your V3.3 supply through a 100 ohm resistor. Current would have been on the order of 90mA until something gave up.
It's possible that the 3.3v regulator (on my board that is U4, above and to the right of the MCU) got fried. You might check to see whether or not you still have 3.3 volts on the left side of R21. But chances are very good that you will have to replace that main board.

Pedaaa said:
oh wait, sorry.
that was too quick....
This other end of the R21 resistor leads to like everywhere. Maybe this is some kind of common 5V supply or something??!
So the burned component could also be like everywhere else, isn´t it?!
I guess i need to find the source of this common supply.
But this could also be the main MTC. This is also somehow connected. I have highlighted this with the blue lines in the attached photo.... those blue lines lead to some pins the RK3066 MTC
My hopes are getting smaller and smaller, to be able to get it to work again...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, a couple of notes:
1. Make sure the circuit checker (beeper) on your multi-meter is not fooling you by beeping even when there is no direct connection. To be sure once it beeps, always turn in to Ohmmeter and measure the resistance, It should be no more than a 1 ohm for a direct connection.
2. Remove the IR sensor and try to boot without it.
3. Replace your IR sensor with this one (it's the most generic one I could find and it will operate both on a 3V and a 5V rail): https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10266
I could not find anything on this 5L2K7S2 or 5L2K1S2 chip. Have you tried asking Pumpkin for the schematics?
P.S. The IR sensor has 3 pins:
1 . Output (connected to the white cable)
2. Ground
3. +3V (or +5V) power.
Don't bother tracing pins 2 and 3. They are ground and power and will go to 1001 places. Only find out where pin 1 goes (the one attached to the white cable). From your pictures I can tell that you have not found where it goes. It is impossible for it to go to the IR sensor and nowhere else!

Hello guys,
thanks for that great help, but i am now giving up on it, and will just order a new one.
(Or to be honest, my girlfriend would kill me, if i would continue traceing pins all night long So i have no other chance than giving up )

I understand completely!
If you are giving up, did you try just cutting off the IR sensor?

Newbie needs a little help for KLD unit

Greetings, gurus and fellow users of android head units,
I recently took the plunge and bought myself one of these head units after much browsing of the forums and trying to read up as much as I can. The exact one is shown here: https://world.taobao.com/item/528347515585.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.3Y4Xhq#detail
For those who are unable to view the link/understand Chinese, here are some quick specs:
- 10.1 inch touchscreen, 1024x600 resolution
- RK3188
- 1GB ram, 16GB storage
- Android 5.1.1
- MTCC-KLD6-V2.97 Aug 02 2016 10:35:08
Interestingly, this is only unit I've seen so far that still comes with a DVD slot, plus it comes with an external mic, which pretty much solves the issue of the crappy internal mic that many of you have experienced in the past. Also, apart from 2 USB ports that are connected to the back of the unit, there is another USB port in front, just to the right of the sd card slot and below the DVD slot.
All went well with this head unit, but there are some minor issues that I would like to ask for your help or guidance:
- 3G USB dongle is not stable - If I turn on the unit with the dongle attached first, it does not work at all. If I attach it after the unit completes booting, it sometimes will lose 3G connectivity. I have downloaded the mobile network settings app and removed all but 1 APN. Searching on the forums tell me this should pretty much be a power issue. I'm currently looking around to see if I can find a USB hub that accepts 12V DC power so I can connect to the ACC circuit and see if the issue goes away. If anyone has any other suggestions, please feel free to let me know.
- Custom firmware - I decided to try Malaysk's rom from here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=69114366&postcount=691 however, it didn't work. After updating the firmware from sd card and wiping the data/cache/etc a couple of times, all I got after rebooting the unit was a black screen and an unresponsive status bar. Booting into recovery shows me the "Block device required" message and a bunch of others that I've forgotten. Fortunately, I was able to restore via USB to a newer version of MTCC-KLD6 firmware posted here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=69206883&postcount=165 and everything still works. However, I would still like to try Malaysk's rom, and possibly in the future try 7floor's sound mod.
- Steering wheel control - According to the shop where I went to get my unit installed, my 2007 Subaru Impreza comes with only 1 wire for swc. Using the default Key Study app I was able to map the vol+, vol-, mute, mode, previous ( |< ) and next ( >| ) keys successfully. However, I noticed that sometimes, the keys would not work. Also, the unit sometimes confuses the vol+ and mute signals. Is there anything I can do to make this better?
- Screen dimming - Is there any way to dim the display brightness using the signal from the car's lights? Currently, the soft touch buttons along the left edge of the display will light up automatically when I switch on the headlights, and go dark when I turn the lights off, but the display brightness does not change. End result, I have a screen that is either too bright at night, or too dark during the day.
Many thanks in advance to all who give me suggestions and answers to my questions above. :good:

firefly_hm said:
- 3G USB dongle is not stable - If I turn on the unit with the dongle attached first, it does not work at all. If I attach it after the unit completes booting, it sometimes will lose 3G connectivity. I have downloaded the mobile network settings app and removed all but 1 APN. Searching on the forums tell me this should pretty much be a power issue. I'm currently looking around to see if I can find a USB hub that accepts 12V DC power so I can connect to the ACC circuit and see if the issue goes away. If anyone has any other suggestions, please feel free to let me know.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Igave up on using a 3G modem and started using a cheap USB 3G hotspot powered from the lighter socket. The headunit connects to it through WiFi and that's it.
firefly_hm said:
- Custom firmware - I decided to try Malaysk's rom from here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=69114366&postcount=691 however, it didn't work. After updating the firmware from sd card and wiping the data/cache/etc a couple of times, all I got after rebooting the unit was a black screen and an unresponsive status bar. Booting into recovery shows me the "Block device required" message and a bunch of others that I've forgotten. Fortunately, I was able to restore via USB to a newer version of MTCC-KLD6 firmware posted here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=69206883&postcount=165 and everything still works. However, I would still like to try Malaysk's rom, and possibly in the future try 7floor's sound mod.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is with 5.1 recovery. Malaysk's latest 5.1.1 ROM from October 30 uses a 4.4 recovery and can be installed om your unit. You can also try his 4.4 ROM or @dsa8310 5.1.1 ROM
firefly_hm said:
- Steering wheel control - According to the shop where I went to get my unit installed, my 2007 Subaru Impreza comes with only 1 wire for swc. Using the default Key Study app I was able to map the vol+, vol-, mute, mode, previous ( |< ) and next ( >| ) keys successfully. However, I noticed that sometimes, the keys would not work. Also, the unit sometimes confuses the vol+ and mute signals. Is there anything I can do to make this better?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1 wire is pure nonsense. You have a resistive SWC and need 2 wires, one of which is GND. Find the SWC ground wire and make sure it's connected and you'll get rid of these issues.
firefly_hm said:
- Screen dimming - Is there any way to dim the display brightness using the signal from the car's lights? Currently, the soft touch buttons along the left edge of the display will light up automatically when I switch on the headlights, and go dark when I turn the lights off, but the display brightness does not change. End result, I have a screen that is either too bright at night, or too dark during the day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is an Xposed module that will dim the screen based on time of the day.

m00n61 said:
1 wire is pure nonsense. You have a resistive SWC and need 2 wires, one of which is GND. Find the SWC ground wire and make sure it's connected and you'll get rid of these issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed, there are 2 wires. The SWC signal wire is connected to the Key1 wire on the unit and the SWC ground is spliced together with the unit's ground. There is another Key2 wire which presumably is for other makes/models of cars that have 2 SWC signal wires. Our conclusion is that the unit is not sensitive enough to sense the differences between the mute signal and the vol+ signal. All other SWC functions are operating normally though.
Another issue that I forgot to mention earlier, for some reason the GPS apps that I'm using (Waze and Maps.Me) are unable to automatically switch to night mode display of the maps when night comes. Any ideas as to why this is happening?

firefly_hm said:
Indeed, there are 2 wires. The SWC signal wire is connected to the Key1 wire on the unit and the SWC ground is spliced together with the unit's ground. There is another Key2 wire which presumably is for other makes/models of cars that have 2 SWC signal wires. Our conclusion is that the unit is not sensitive enough to sense the differences between the mute signal and the vol+ signal. All other SWC functions are operating normally though.
Another issue that I forgot to mention earlier, for some reason the GPS apps that I'm using (Waze and Maps.Me) are unable to automatically switch to night mode display of the maps when night comes. Any ideas as to why this is happening?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your conclusion is ..., how should I put it? Not right?
Ground key2. It's a resistive matrix for **** sake. It's not a MOS-FET preamp.

m00n61 said:
Your conclusion is ..., how should I put it? Not right?
Ground key2. It's a resistive matrix for **** sake. It's not a MOS-FET preamp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was what I interpreted from your first post - SWC signal to Key1, ground to Key2. However when I tried that, the unit was totally unable to detect any SWC signal at all. On closer inspection of the wires on the unit, both Key1 and Key2 wires were marked as 5V. With SWC signal to Key1 and ground tied to unit ground, I was able to get SWC to work, albeit intermittently.

firefly_hm said:
That was what I interpreted from your first post - SWC signal to Key1, ground to Key2. However when I tried that, the unit was totally unable to detect any SWC signal at all. On closer inspection of the wires on the unit, both Key1 and Key2 wires were marked as 5V. With SWC signal to Key1 and ground tied to unit ground, I was able to get SWC to work, albeit intermittently.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking at the unit pictures it seems it has a CANBUS decoder, which explains Key1 and 2 both marked as 5V. And your car seems to have CANBUS. Not sure if Subaru also used it for SWC though, you will need the schematics. If this is the case you need to enter Factory settings (use 126 as password) and, under the Application tab select the proper CANBUS setting. But then, both wires need to be connected. I presume you did not get a proper harness but the zillions of wires as in the picture so I suggest you get the proper one for your car. It will probably be easier to get a standard ISO wiring for the unit and a ISO/car connector adapter wiring.

m00n61 said:
Looking at the unit pictures it seems it has a CANBUS decoder, which explains Key1 and 2 both marked as 5V. And your car seems to have CANBUS. Not sure if Subaru also used it for SWC though, you will need the schematics. If this is the case you need to enter Factory settings (use 126 as password) and, under the Application tab select the proper CANBUS setting. But then, both wires need to be connected. I presume you did not get a proper harness but the zillions of wires as in the picture so I suggest you get the proper one for your car. It will probably be easier to get a standard ISO wiring for the unit and a ISO/car connector adapter wiring.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've look through the service manual, the SWC controls are connected to the CAN communication system, but I'm not sure how this works. Will research this further, thanks.
In other news, I've managed to get Malaysk's latest firmware running on my unit, like you said it's due to the recovery. Many thanks for that. One thing I've noticed, the blank screen button in the status bar no longer works (The one near the return button on the right, not the screensaver button on the left). Is this normal?
Also, do you have any idea on the navigation apps map night mode issue?

firefly_hm said:
I've look through the service manual, the SWC controls are connected to the CAN communication system, but I'm not sure how this works. Will research this further, thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Something like this should help
firefly_hm said:
In other news, I've managed to get Malaysk's latest firmware running on my unit, like you said it's due to the recovery. Many thanks for that. One thing I've noticed, the blank screen button in the status bar no longer works (The one near the return button on the right, not the screensaver button on the left). Is this normal?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check the mtc-status bar module in xposed (and mtc-statusbar.ini). It could be disabled
firefly_hm said:
Also, do you have any idea on the navigation apps map night mode issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea. Apart from app configuration settings - night mode may be disabled.

firefly_hm said:
That was what I interpreted from your first post - SWC signal to Key1, ground to Key2. However when I tried that, the unit was totally unable to detect any SWC signal at all. On closer inspection of the wires on the unit, both Key1 and Key2 wires were marked as 5V. With SWC signal to Key1 and ground tied to unit ground, I was able to get SWC to work, albeit intermittently.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I have seen of the MCU code itself, I don't think that Key2 is meant to be a ground reference for Key1. They are both handled the same way in the code -- as separate analog inputs. When they change and become stable, the MCU sends a message to the Android cpu. So if Key2 is being used as a reference it has to be happening on the Android side of things. Looks to me far more likely that Key2 is just used for cars with more than one resistive ladder.
If your SWC keys work but are sometimes unreliable, you might try placing a small bypass capacitor across key1 to key ground. This will smooth out the signal presented to the analog input. The best value would depend on the resistance in the ladder itself, so all you can do is try some values to see if something helps. I would start with something like a .1uF or .22uF bypass cap just because they are fast and cheap. If the value is too small it will not help, & if too large the key response time may become slow. You may also have to "teach" your HU the new key values again. Might be worth a try anyway.

m00n61 said:
Check the mtc-status bar module in xposed (and mtc-statusbar.ini). It could be disabled
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've checked the mtc-statusbar.ini, there is no mention of this function. I'll try asking over at Malaysk's thread, but I'm afraid he might not be able to help much as well since he doesn't have a 1024x600 unit and he announced that he will be retiring.
m00n61 said:
No idea. Apart from app configuration settings - night mode may be disabled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Night mode is set to auto in the navigation apps. However, they do not switch to night mode at all. Manually setting them to night mode works, but the maps become too dark for use during the day.
dhmsjs said:
From what I have seen of the MCU code itself, I don't think that Key2 is meant to be a ground reference for Key1. They are both handled the same way in the code -- as separate analog inputs. When they change and become stable, the MCU sends a message to the Android cpu. So if Key2 is being used as a reference it has to be happening on the Android side of things. Looks to me far more likely that Key2 is just used for cars with more than one resistive ladder.
If your SWC keys work but are sometimes unreliable, you might try placing a small bypass capacitor across key1 to key ground. This will smooth out the signal presented to the analog input. The best value would depend on the resistance in the ladder itself, so all you can do is try some values to see if something helps. I would start with something like a .1uF or .22uF bypass cap just because they are fast and cheap. If the value is too small it will not help, & if too large the key response time may become slow. You may also have to "teach" your HU the new key values again. Might be worth a try anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the suggestion. Based on what I've found, the ladder for my car looks something like this:
No buttons pressed: Approx. 4.7k ohms
Mute: Approx 22 ohms
Vol+: Approx 90 ohms
Vol-: Approx 200 ohms
Mode: Approx 360 ohms
Seek >: Approx 690 ohms
Seek <: Approx 1.5k ohms
My colleague has suggested that perhaps 22 ohms is too little for the unit to sense properly and adding a resister of say 500 ohms to Key1 may solve the issue.

firefly_hm said:
Based on what I've found, the ladder for my car looks something like this:
No buttons pressed: Approx. 4.7k ohms
Mute: Approx 22 ohms
Vol+: Approx 90 ohms
Vol-: Approx 200 ohms
Mode: Approx 360 ohms
Seek >: Approx 690 ohms
Seek <: Approx 1.5k ohms
My colleague has suggested that perhaps 22 ohms is too little for the unit to sense properly and adding a resister of say 500 ohms to Key1 may solve the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
firefly_hm said:
I've look through the service manual, the SWC controls are connected to the CAN communication system, but I'm not sure how this works. Will research this further, thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your SWC is through CAN BUS then it is not a resistive ladder.
Maybe you should start here to understand how this works.

m00n61 said:
If your SWC is through CAN BUS then it is not a resistive ladder.
Maybe you should start here to understand how this works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the diagram that is shown in the service manual for my car. As you can see, it is a resistive latter, and it is also connected to CAN:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

firefly_hm said:
This is the diagram that is shown in the service manual for my car. As you can see, it is a resistive latter, and it is also connected to CAN:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The fact that both the SWC wires and the CAN BUS module connect to the audio board doesn't mean SWC is connected to CAN BUS. Anyway, have fun with your unit.

firefly_hm said:
...Thanks for the suggestion. Based on what I've found, the ladder for my car looks something like this:
No buttons pressed: Approx. 4.7k ohms
Mute: Approx 22 ohms
Vol+: Approx 90 ohms
Vol-: Approx 200 ohms
Mode: Approx 360 ohms
Seek >: Approx 690 ohms
Seek <: Approx 1.5k ohms
My colleague has suggested that perhaps 22 ohms is too little for the unit to sense properly and adding a resister of say 500 ohms to Key1 may solve the issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here are some more details about the SWC algorithm that may help your colleague. This is based on what I see in the MTCB-KLD2-V2.77 MCU, but is also true in MTCC-KLD6-V2.91 as far as I have seen, so I suspect it is common to most MTCB & MTCC MCUs.
The MTCD MCU is a different processor altogether so this does not necessarily apply to those.
The A to D converter is 10 bits with a voltage range of 0 to 3.3v. Conversions are triggered every 1.1 mSec and each conversion takes about 49uSec. To accommodate a wide range of ladder impedance, the MCU sequentially applies 3 different bias currents to the ladder and reads the voltage present with each one. It adds the 3 readings together to form a composite value. Three of these composite readings are averaged together to form the final value, and to detect stability of the signal. The 3 bias levels are
With key bias 1 and 2 both off:
Key 1 input pulled up to 3.3v with 22k
Key 2 input pulled up to 3.3v with 22k
With key bias 1 on:
Add 2.2k pullup to Key 1 input
Add 2.2k pullup to Key 2 input
With key bias 2 on:
Add 470 ohm pullup to key 1 input
Add 470 ohm pullup to key 2 input

Dasaita PX5 4GB - No audio/rear cam

Hello fellows!
First of all, pardon my noobness. It's my first time trying to replace a head unit.
I recently bought the Dasaita TDA7850 PX5 4GB to replace my stock media/GPS on a 2012 Hyundai Elantra Limited. According to Dasaita representative, I would also need the canbus adapter (link below) and I'm trying to put everything together now.
Since there is no detailed instruction about what connect where, I'm trying by best. So far, I'm facing two problems:
1. No sound, none, not even the click sound during screen touch.
2. Rear camera doesn't come up (it's the stock one, no extra camera used)
Besides that, radio, gps, bluetooth, wheel controls, all seem to work properly (the radio at least "see" the stations, since there is no sound coming out for anything)
Do you guys have any tutorial or FAQ or something I could check to see what I'm doing wrong?
Regards,
d00b
Head Unit: ebay /itm/263983125509
Adapter: ebay /itm/263674998319

This video is in spanish but maybe can help you, just use translated subs on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cg0KgJxFOFA

d00b2020 said:
Hello fellows!
First of all, pardon my noobness. It's my first time trying to replace a head unit.
I recently bought the Dasaita TDA7850 PX5 4GB to replace my stock media/GPS on a 2012 Hyundai Elantra Limited. According to Dasaita representative, I would also need the canbus adapter (link below) and I'm trying to put everything together now.
Since there is no detailed instruction about what connect where, I'm trying by best. So far, I'm facing two problems:
1. No sound, none, not even the click sound during screen touch.
2. Rear camera doesn't come up (it's the stock one, no extra camera used)
Besides that, radio, gps, bluetooth, wheel controls, all seem to work properly (the radio at least "see" the stations, since there is no sound coming out for anything)
Do you guys have any tutorial or FAQ or something I could check to see what I'm doing wrong?
Regards,
d00b
Head Unit: ebay /itm/263983125509
Adapter: ebay /itm/263674998319
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check if your canbus adapter is correctly selected on factory settings.
Do you have some enhanced stock audio system/amplifier (like Bose on mazdas)?
Remember that factory settings will ask a password: 126
Enviado desde mi SM-G950F mediante Tapatalk

Hey Guys, thanks for your tips. Sorry 'bout the late response. I only have the time to work on this during weekends.
These are my feedback up to now:
jerrymh said:
This video is in spanish but maybe can help you, just use translated subs on youtube.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I've seen this video for a while. I speak Portuguese so Spanish is not a huge problem.
The problem with the way the connections are done on this video is that the guy has a slightly different cable from mine.
Theirs has 2 Video cables:
Code:
(CABLES) (UNIT)
AUX VID IN <--> CAM OUT
AUX R <--> AUX R
AUX L <--> AUX L
---
CAM VIN <--> CAM VIN (not on radio, comes from other part of the cable blob)
In my cables, the part that plugs into the radio is the same, but the set of cables coming from CANBUS adapter only has CAM VIN, AUX VIN, AUX L IN, AUX R IN.
I already tried to connect CAM VIN from radio plug into CAM VIN from CANBUS adapter, an also CAM VIN on AUX VID, but none of the combinations worked.
Also, my CANBUS has TWO connectors and not only one as his. I'm not sure why but I already tried to connect the plugs on both sites (they are from different sizes) concurrently and one at a time. The wheel controls only works when I connect the cable on the bottom of the canbus (using the label upside as a reference of up/down). The connector on top doesn't seem to interfere.
I'll add bellow the images from what I got and how I'm trying to connect.
ikerg said:
Check if your canbus adapter is correctly selected on factory settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. According to Dasaita representative, the CANBUS config should be set to option 15-HUYNDAI/KIA. In fact, only after setting it this way the wheel controls started to work. But still no sound or read cam.
ikerg said:
Do you have some enhanced stock audio system/amplifier (like Bose on mazdas)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, in fact the car has a stock amp that I wasn't aware of. It's not a branded one like Bose or so, but it's there, on the right side of the trunk. I was able to spot it opening the cover that gives us access to the rear lights.
And, knowing that, I promptly changed the Factory Settings to consider an Amp (it was set to Auto). Still didn't make any difference. Should I wire something differently in case of an Amp?
These are the set of cables that came with the Dasaita HU:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
These are my installation mess:
This is the amp I found on the rear trunk
I appreciate any additional help you guys are able to provide!
Regards,
d00B

d00b2020 said:
Hey Guys, thanks for your tips. Sorry 'bout the late response. I only have the time to work on this during weekends.
These are my feedback up to now:
Yes, I've seen this video for a while. I speak Portuguese so Spanish is not a huge problem.
The problem with the way the connections are done on this video is that the guy has a slightly different cable from mine.
Theirs has 2 Video cables:
Code:
(CABLES) (UNIT)
AUX VID IN <--> CAM OUT
AUX R <--> AUX R
AUX L <--> AUX L
---
CAM VIN <--> CAM VIN (not on radio, comes from other part of the cable blob)
In my cables, the part that plugs into the radio is the same, but the set of cables coming from CANBUS adapter only has CAM VIN, AUX VIN, AUX L IN, AUX R IN.
I already tried to connect CAM VIN from radio plug into CAM VIN from CANBUS adapter, an also CAM VIN on AUX VID, but none of the combinations worked.
Also, my CANBUS has TWO connectors and not only one as his. I'm not sure why but I already tried to connect the plugs on both sites (they are from different sizes) concurrently and one at a time. The wheel controls only works when I connect the cable on the bottom of the canbus (using the label upside as a reference of up/down). The connector on top doesn't seem to interfere.
I'll add bellow the images from what I got and how I'm trying to connect.
Yes. According to Dasaita representative, the CANBUS config should be set to option 15-HUYNDAI/KIA. In fact, only after setting it this way the wheel controls started to work. But still no sound or read cam.
Yes, in fact the car has a stock amp that I wasn't aware of. It's not a branded one like Bose or so, but it's there, on the right side of the trunk. I was able to spot it opening the cover that gives us access to the rear lights.
And, knowing that, I promptly changed the Factory Settings to consider an Amp (it was set to Auto). Still didn't make any difference. Should I wire something differently in case of an Amp?
These are the set of cables that came with the Dasaita HU:
These are my installation mess:
This is the amp I found on the rear trunk
I appreciate any additional help you guys are able to provide!
Regards,
d00B
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe the canbus is not for your car, What car is it.
I Have a CX5, my conectionr are VIN----VIN, a gues it is bad named by the chinese worker.

jerrymh said:
Maybe the canbus is not for your car, What car is it.
I Have a CX5, my conectionr are VIN----VIN, a gues it is bad named by the chinese worker.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!
Mine is an Elantra 2012 Limited. I just found the complete diagram for the head unit and sent to Dasaita. Let's see if they confirm their CANBUS is not that compatible with this trim. I'll post here their response.
In the mean time, if anyone has some experience with this head unit replacement, please share!
Just for reference:
https :// hemanual . beac . info/avn_head_unit_components_and_components_location-2062.html
Regards,
d00b

jerrymh said:
This video is in spanish but maybe can help you, just use translated subs on youtube.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
(As a new member, I guess I can't include the video link in my quote, but see the previous post)
This video was incredibly helpful! I spent the better part of a day trying to figure out why I wasn't getting sound out of my android head unit (I have a Dasaita 9" unit for a 2015 Mazda 6). My kit came with RCA audio cables that plug in to the head unit (and another set of FR, FL, RR, RL RCA cables on the harness) that I did NOT need to use - in the video, he throws them aside. Mazda also offers a Bose audio system (which I do not have), so not sure if those are useful in that case.

darkody said:
(As a new member, I guess I can't include the video link in my quote, but see the previous post)
This video was incredibly helpful! I spent the better part of a day trying to figure out why I wasn't getting sound out of my android head unit (I have a Dasaita 9" unit for a 2015 Mazda 6). My kit came with RCA audio cables that plug in to the head unit (and another set of FR, FL, RR, RL RCA cables on the harness) that I did NOT need to use - in the video, he throws them aside. Mazda also offers a Bose audio system (which I do not have), so not sure if those are useful in that case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My cx-5 comes with Bose Audio, it does not need the FR, FL, RR, RL RCA cables, all are managed by the canbus unit that comes with the Dasaita.

Muy cx5 has no Bose and it does not use as well such rca connectors....all audio signals are directly controlled by canbus
Enviado desde mi SM-G975F mediante Tapatalk

Microphone noise problem with Dasaita Android Radio

Hello! I've got a 2018 Toyota Auris (yes, i know, in the USA is named Corolla). I changed the radio for a Dasaita PX6 radio with DSP and Android 10.
[**Link to the radio**](https://es.aliexpress.com/item/33011976959.html)
It came with an external Microphone but they don't allow you to use the OEM microphone wich was... honestly perfect. This is what the radio came with:
[**Image of the radio with all the accesories**]
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The microphone connects via 3.5mm Mini Jack. I tested it and I turned the microphone amplification to +10db because if i had it lower, NOBODY CAN HEAR ME. So... +10db, ok.
The audio quality in calls was so horrific that I thought... well maybe is this ****ty microphone, lets try another one. So I bought the Sony ECM-CS3:
[**Sony ECM-CS3 (beautiful)**]
I connected it with the same settings (remember, less than +10db means nobody can hear me), and... I still had the same Issue. The microphone audio is distorted as hell. I tested it by recording a call with my girlfriend. I'm the dude... and i can't even understand myself. The worst part is in the middle, when I am driving in the highway (min. 8 aprox):
[**Sound proof**] (https://freesound.org/s/573025/)
I though about trying to Isolate the microphone with foam because my actual setup is this:
It has foam underneath for vibrations, but the actual microphone has no foam around. I'll test it later but for me it looks more like a software issue.
What do you think? Any idea of how to improve the sound quality? I found this post in a Tacoma forum where **a guy found a way to use the OEM microphone from Toyota in an Android Unit**. But I am scared of not being compatible with the Corollas:
[**Link to his adapter**](https://tombit.com/product/3rd-gen-toyota-tacoma-mic-adapter-atc-ato-fuse-type/)
[**Link to the forum post**](https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-tacoma-oem-mic-adapter.714665/)
Oh! I made a video (in Spanish, sorry. But **it has English subs!**) showing the whole setup of the radio where you can see everything better:
[**Radio Setup**](
)

You have to use the dasaita mic. Other mics don't have the same impedance.
As for quality... maybe your mic or mic input is defective? I use the dasaita mic (and android phone) with no issues.

Bob_Sanders said:
You have to use the dasaita mic. Other mics don't have the same impedance.
As for quality... maybe your mic or mic input is defective? I use the dasaita mic (and android phone) with no issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean the internal one or the external that came inside the box?

The external. I have never tried the internal

I have a 2015 Corolla ZRE181R. I managed the built in mic to work on my Dasaita PX6 MAX10-CP (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001566063752.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2d8f7fdcmptC4w). The trim panel bit I bought from Joying a while back - allows your Corolla (Pre-2017) to take a 200x100 toyota universal unit. Also canbus cables is CB004 so you need to get it from a different listing and not the listing for the toyota universal unit.
But before I got this to work, I ended up blowing a little SPDT switch on the board and that shorted the mic input to ground and I could not even use my front panel mic. My temporary solution was replacing the analog SPDT switch (marked with MIAKI) with a 1kiloohm resistor (across the common and normally closed connection). My brother knows how to do SMD soldering/de-soldering so he helped me on that one (with a little fee). MTKNAVI (the seller on aliexpress) was kind enough to tell me which part I needed to fix the board with once I found where the fault was.
It should be the same unit as yours with a different front panel - just a heads up but all these units are quite generic and even the mainboard uses an STM32 microcontroller and the PX6 board is removable.
Attached is what I worked out - try at your own risk. It may allow you to reuse the amplified mic on the harness and it will sound "OK" but I still have to put this through a road test... If someone comes round to selling this for cheap in a kit - send me a free sample. A decoupling capacitor is recommended for when you wire the buck converter to your cigarette lighter connections. The ground strap for the wiring shield is separate - it never gets connected to the microphone but prevents the wiring from picking up noise.
If you need to read up wiring diagrams get them from toyota-tech.eu or any reliable source which is official or even google can help.
Remember the Dasaita supplied mic (even on the front panel) is around 1kiloohm resistance - anything that is much lower impedance may blow up something on the board and you will need help then. Also cannot confirm if the powered mic will not blow the spdt switch again if I replace it and put in a resistance on the input mic. Someone please see if there is perhaps a protection circuit to add on the mic. Any amplified mic will go boom
Your thoughts?

@nxdesign WOW! I was think of trying something similar in my CHR, great job, man! So I basically need to power the factory mic and run a 1k resistor before plugging it's output into the Dasaita, right?

@nxdesign That's it! Tomorrow I'm doing it! Got a 1k + 5k variable resistor so I can tune the attenuating resistance between 1k and 6k.

I wouldn't use a switching regulator, use a linear 7805.
The "protector" is a capacitor connected directly to the head unit mic+/input. 0.1uf should be fine.

Update: It works!
I left the resistance set to the maximum it can do, which is total 5.6Kohm.
For anyone reading this, if you have the same 2018 Toyota CHR + JBL model, you need to take 12V power from somewhere else, as it's not present in F80 pin 3. I just used the Front Camera power cable from the Dasaita unit, but you can splice any ACC power.
Before plugging in, I checked on an oscilloscope and voltage that I put at mic input to Dasaita was +/- about 30mV. Seems high compared to a passive mic, but it seems to clip only if I purposely talk loud close to the mic in the roof. I'll see if I need to increase the resistance more
@nxdesign your schematic works, thanks a lot! And I confirm I didn't fry anything. When I plugged the jack in the unit, it was still using the internal mic and it was working fine. After a reboot, it started using the car microphone.
@marchnz If you're talking about the buck converter, it's a LM2596. What you wrote is above my current understanding of electronics.

@RPG0 Your setup looks clean but once you are happy with it then do remember to wrap in some wiring harness tape so it's not just wires all over the place and the wires don't get damaged over time. Your regulator needs some kind of enclosure or tape up with kapton tape to prevent any shorts and the like. I used the cigarette lighter connector - you can easily crimp a tap-off if you need ACC. There is also ACC going to the unit - it's the red or yellow wire in the harness that dasaita provides. I reused a power supply for one of these crappy mirror units my dad had in his car - it turned out to inject the least noise from what I had on hand. Once you find the perfect resistance for this I might just do the same for my setup.
@marchnz LM7805 works by wasting the energy to reach that specific voltage (e.g. 5V). Higher the gap between the input and the output - the more heat dissipated. If the upstream is noisy it may not be good enough to filter out the noise at specific frequencies. Some switch mode power supplies have really come a long way and with a switching regulator you really need to massage it to make it smooth. It's the easiest option for most people out there. Even using the LM7805 after a good switching regulator that would be better - you avoid overloading your linear regulator and you killed a lot of the input noise in the switching regulator. If you have a good idea on how to obtain nice stable noise free voltage then we would like to hear it.
I ordered a Daisata 12V to 6V supply intended for original Toyota reversing cameras from the Daisata official store to see if this is something to recommend for the microphone amp power supply. When it arrives and I manage to upgrade the harness with it then I will keep you posted on it. I would assume this what the original Toyota unit would do - with a 6V rail to power the mic and the reversing camera.
I managed to use to use 2 overkill spdt relays to switch video the other day so I can look at the rearview cam when not reversing the car. AV IN does support AHD 720p (no surprise there). Also, I have a nice aftermarket parking sensor setup that outputs to the Canbus to show up on the Daisata screen fooling the unit into thinking I have a parking clearance ecu when I reverse.

@nxdesign I think the current 5.6K is close to perfection.
It was a bit too loud and seemed to clip, but I went into factory settings and set the mic gain to 0 (it was 12 before). Now its still loud enough but also very clear, sounds like talking on the phone.

@nxdesign, 7805/linear vs switched mode/buck - is not about "modern", I suggest using a linear regulator to keep switching regulator noise OUT of the head unit or at least adequately decoupled. Vehicle supply noise you refer to are of low frequency component, while switching is high frequency, so you move the problem either UP or out of the audio spectrum, but it's still there, you just don't hear it. Not good for your head unit though.
I really don't need a lecture in powersupply design, and since you've mentioned that you're buying an aliexpress camera DC regulator, you'll likely be buying a linear regulator - and probably of basic level of electronics.
None of the circuit ideas listed above consider switching noise, nor do they DC block or Noise block / decouple the mic signal to the headunit.
I've had working Toyota factor mic for a couple of years now, creating a similar but properly decoupled and filtered solution a couple of years back.
Finally: decouple the signal to the headunit with a 0.1uF capacitor.

@marchnz I did test a decoupling capacitor on the mic input and it did not improve anything for me. But your consideration is valid and I will add it back when I can. I do decouple off where the power supply gets its 12v and 100nf ceramic is the right capacitor to use. The head unit USB socket 5V was too noisy - any idea why that is and if normal? Will try LM7805 too when I have the chance but right now my setup seems to work fine.
This is what I ordered but my impression is this is just another switching power supply... I'll post pics when I get it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000340322513.html

@marchnz I just did the same thing for the factory mic on my Juke. That one also needs 5V power, if anyone finds this, but only one signal wire.
This time I followed your advice and put a 0.2uF capacitor in series with a 10Kohm resistance because I saw the Juke has mic signal around the 2V area, so it needed DC removal for sure. It works fine.
I think you are both right and wrong about the need of a capacitor.
The CHR factory mic has mic+ and mic- wires which indicate to me there is no DC so no cap needed for DC removal. Unlike the Juke that has only one mic signal back and it's at 2V +/- 0.5V or so.
Used an oscilloscope to confirm and indeed with a cap this went down to AC level.
...Or I might be completely wrong, but both worked for my cars
Edit: Microphone was clipping in fact, changed resistor to 120Kohm, now it's fine. This is for the Juke, with a "Tesla style" unit

@RPG0 could you, please, draw a simple schematic of your wiring? I have done the same wiring on my Nissan and a Pioneer Multimedia source without capacitor and resistance and I get a lot of noise in the mic signal, so I will try adding resistance and capacitor.

A simple em272 did perfectly the job, I set this one at the genuine mic position in a qashqai j11. Mic setting is 5 but I'm going to lower it...