Develop Bugs

Sound on right ear.

Hello everyone, Im new to the Blue Angel but ever I since I discovered the o2 xda ii's I fell in love. Therefore I didn't rest until I got my hands on one. It finally arrived today (bought it on ebay). Everything seems to be working like a charm except for one thing, when I insert the qtek s110 headphones, or use a bandridge audio adapt from 2.5 to 3.5 I only have sound on the right ear. Is this device output mono only? Thanks

NOP
the default earphone for this device has both I mean Stereo sound but it has a special config... I lost them so I dont know which combination is... on ebay i saw an adapter 2.5 3 test points on the plug maybe those works but I cant find anyone that works... truth is stereo.

+ Que PPC said:
the default earphone for this device has both I mean Stereo sound but it has a special config... I lost them so I dont know which combination is... on ebay i saw an adapter 2.5 3 test points on the plug maybe those works but I cant find anyone that works... truth is stereo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you mean that is normal that I only have mono output?

It should be in stereo. Check out the plug that you have it should have four divisions on it...
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or push it a lil' bit harder maybe it's just loose.

i experienced the same, because i also have a normal cheap store bought adaptor, which only has 2 of those black rings, because, of course it was not supposed to hand through mic+stereo. additionally, most of the usual adaptors are a little to thick around the end of the plug so conflicting with the blueangel's case.
in explanation, using red_hanks picture:
the plug is devided into 4 regions in this case, which is one more, than in a normal audio out 2.5 or 3.5 because of the microphone.
if i am not mistaking (i had very little time to look this up) from left to right it is:
earth, mic, left, right
whereas on a three poled 2.5 or 3.5 it would be:
earth, left, right
which lets me come to the conclusion, that being fully plugged in, your left ear contact is, where the mic signal should go in and what you hear on the right ear, is actually the left ear signal, the right ear signal is not transmitted at all, because of the missing pole, meaning, instead of jamming it even further in, you should rather pull it out a tiny little bit, and both channels should work, or you go and buy an adaptor like the one in the picture, where there is 4 poles and then, using a normal 3-poled earphone, your earphone doesn't get in contact with the mic channel, so you probably can't make phone calls with it, but listening to music and watching tv should be fine
Chef_Tony

Well explained Chef_Tony

hell yeah!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice audio plug wiki
jejeje
BTW Red does you have already this function properly? or you dont use earphones on the BA?
I was trying a lot of adapters and none works...

I don't use the headset that came with the BA to make calls if I am driving, I use my BT headset. If I am watching movies on my BA I use an adapter same on that picture and a Pioneer earphone

so you have an adapter... does you got stereo sound? were did you bough your adapter....? men really i want one... i will pay 5 dlls for one and the shipping too.

Where can i get an adapter like this? Thanks for the explanation... People here are nicer than in the kaiser forum where they crucificate you for not knowing things from the beginning. Today, after sleeping over the issue of not being able to instal the wm6.1 I finally got it. And now Im running it with manilla and everything. I really like this BA ^^ Now all Im missing is that adaptor. Tried to find it on ebay but with no success

on kaiser M$ still develops i think well wm6.1 was ported from it... and many great developers are there so for now is a high brain thread.
here... we all supports this device the oldest but alive!! jejeje
i cant find on ebay well there is some i found two one in USA cant shipp world wide and other in china jejeje cheap at least 3dlls.

I just bought it here in a local store. Yes, stereo sound.

clarification
Zero|Cool said:
Hello everyone, Im new to the Blue Angel but ever I since I discovered the o2 xda ii's I fell in love. Therefore I didn't rest until I got my hands on one. It finally arrived today (bought it on ebay). Everything seems to be working like a charm except for one thing, when I insert the qtek s110 headphones, or use a bandridge audio adapt from 2.5 to 3.5 I only have sound on the right ear. Is this device output mono only? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
are you using the standard mic/speaker headset or just earphone without mic?

red_hanks said:
It should be in stereo. Check out the plug that you have it should have four divisions on it...
or push it a lil' bit harder maybe it's just loose.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Chef_Tony said:
i experienced the same, because i also have a normal cheap store bought adaptor, which only has 2 of those black rings, because, of course it was not supposed to hand through mic+stereo. additionally, most of the usual adaptors are a little to thick around the end of the plug so conflicting with the blueangel's case.
in explanation, using red_hanks picture:
the plug is devided into 4 regions in this case, which is one more, than in a normal audio out 2.5 or 3.5 because of the microphone.
if i am not mistaking (i had very little time to look this up) from left to right it is:
earth, mic, left, right
whereas on a three poled 2.5 or 3.5 it would be:
earth, left, right
which lets me come to the conclusion, that being fully plugged in, your left ear contact is, where the mic signal should go in and what you hear on the right ear, is actually the left ear signal, the right ear signal is not transmitted at all, because of the missing pole, meaning, instead of jamming it even further in, you should rather pull it out a tiny little bit, and both channels should work, or you go and buy an adaptor like the one in the picture, where there is 4 poles and then, using a normal 3-poled earphone, your earphone doesn't get in contact with the mic channel, so you probably can't make phone calls with it, but listening to music and watching tv should be fine
Chef_Tony
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
phezthie said:
are you using the standard mic/speaker headset or just earphone without mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if without mic but plain headset, Chef_tony is correct but, with my little knowledge in electronics, the description will be in reverse order based on and with reference to red's picture, from left to right, the latter will be the earth (ground or common) wire, ...

phezthie said:
are you using the standard mic/speaker headset or just earphone without mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello. I used the stereo+mic headset from qtek s110 and also tried with a bandridge audio adapter with some sony stereo headset.
Will this adapter work?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-5-2-5mm-to-...3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:2|39:1|240:1318
Cheers

Yes that will work but I think it will bump on top of your BA...

I will do that
i will go to a electronical shop and try all! jejeje again...
the only way to know wich one is the path... is having a multimeter a scraped headset with mic and a naked BA...

+ Que PPC said:
i will go to a electronical shop and try all! jejeje again...
the only way to know wich one is the path... is having a multimeter a scraped headset with mic and a naked BA...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Zero|Cool said:
Hello. I used the stereo+mic headset from qtek s110 and also tried with a bandridge audio adapter with some sony stereo headset.
Will this adapter work?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2-5-2-5mm-to-...3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:2|39:1|240:1318
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, it will (take into consideration red's observation tho )
basically, adapter's purpose is merely to reduce or to enlarge the diameter of the plug (male-female), others are designed to split the signal, (i.e. mono-stereo). In the particular case as shown in the picture, the pin setup or pole configuration remain the same so there is no doubt that it would work, otherwise, the problem is not the adapter but probably the headset or the unit itself. to determine which one, que's suggestion is in place..
Using a multimeter, set it to resistance reading or continuity test mode. put one of its probe to earth's pole/terminal of your headphone and the other probe to the left and right poles. in both instances, there must be a continuity or little resistance reading. if you are using a digital tester with buzzer that was set to continuity test mode, you will hear a continuing sound or beep. if analog tester and the same was set to resistance (1ohm to 10kohm range) you will hear a click sound in the speakers, all are indications that your headphone is perfectly well. the bad news is, if that will be the case, the culprit could be the unit...
wait....... connect the adapter to your headphone and follow the above procedures. if no reading or sound in the speaker channels (left or right), rejoice, the problem is certainly with the continuity of signal from your headphone's plug to adapter, otherwise, it is the unit that you should check...
but don't lose hope yet .. in many instances, pda's terminals and jacks including the headphone/mic jack, just like any other electronic gadgets, accumulates dirt that requires proper cleaning without which it could affect its performance that sometimes you would hear no sound at all. if that is the scenario, use a good contact cleaner like deoxite (also used in volume/potentiometers of audio amplifiers to remove annoying clicking sound or noise). spray a little and then repeatedly plug in and out the adapter into your pda jack, 3 or 4 times will do. thereafter, wait a little time to dry the cleaner before testing the unit. repeat the procedure if no positive result in you attempts.
if to no avail after performing the foregoing procedures, too bad, that's the proper time for you to worry since opening the unit and performing a hardware repair is not an easy task. you need good repair techie to do that...
BTW, the above procedures are being given under the presumption that your unit has no ROM or software problem that would affect the performance of its audio circuit.... i hope i was able to enlighten a little.. cheers and regards...

Hail to Phezthie..now we have a lawyer, electrician, IT specialist, Businessman, Talent Scout, accountant...and more to come..hehehe
Hey Phezthie, I am doing this BA Tips and tricks hope you can give me a hand? You too +Que?

red_hanks said:
Hail to Phezthie..now we have a lawyer, electrician, IT specialist, Businessman, Talent Scout, accountant...and more to come..hehehe
Hey Phezthie, I am doing this BA Tips and tricks hope you can give me a hand? You too +Que?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'll be glad to cheers bro..

Car System with NOTE

I want to make the beast (aka note) the centre of entertainment/info in my car.
The problem: My car has no aux input.
Solution: FM Transmitter.
Now I tried a few cheapo fm transmitters, and they all had horrible sound connection. The transmission was fine but something was wrong. I pretty much gave up on this idea until I tried my brother's fm transmitter. It was crystal, however it had long cables which dangled over the driver -not ideal. Also, his one was from a good company and cost $120 -yikes.
Anyways, just the other day I saw my friends set-up. All he had was this:
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Which can be bought off ebay for ~$15, or even cheaper from other sources.
It is the perfect companion, since the rigid arm holds the phone just firm enough. It cleanly connects to fm. And charges it simultaneously.
Here's one for example: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FM-Trans...Accessories&hash=item20c69cb619#ht_3654wt_905
After looking for it for many hours, I can't find a suitable one for androids.
For once, I am jelly over Apple's monopoly of its proprietary connector.
Any good solutions you guys know of?

Why would you bother, just buy radio with aux and a stand.

dawids2k8 said:
Why would you bother, just buy radio with aux and a stand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, this was your first post on xda, I'm honored.
The thing is, I'm not planning on keeping this car for too many years... so a new head-unit will be a little pointless and expensive. Another thing, there is a separate display unit which pairs with the headunit...so removing it will stuff that up (which is handy for quick time and temperature).
It plays CD's but I don't have any cd's...they're all digital media.
I know I'm not the only one with an Android phone who has this problem, so a solution is out there.
Anyways, I found these solutions on ebay:
1) Bought, tested, its useless. Cables float everywhere. Costs ~$5.
Picture: http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab314/youkeshu/youkeshu-7/AA404_5-ALL.jpg
2)Then I found this one, costs ~$11, also suffers from the same noise distortion. Again cables galore!
Picture: http://cdn1.sellerimage.com/cdn2/120802/9e/78/f4/fmt-uni023_1_cc.jpg
3) I found this. Its just like the first crappy one. This one I haven't bought and tested, it may actually work well. But again cables galore!
Picture: http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab238/ebay510/home and garden/CBA00031-1.jpg
4) Okay I found this a working solution. The seller contacted me said it doesn't have the noise problem like the other options and backs it up with a full refund. Sad part is it costs ~$45...and what makes it worse is that the cables are still hanging about but at least not as much as the solutions prior to this.
Picture: http://gomadic.us/imgs-prod/fmt/samsung-galaxy-2-car-auto-charger-fm-transmitter.jpg

I finally found a (2yo?) thread in Google where they were discussing the same thing for the original Droid.
Anyways, I found a link to it on Amazon but it was discontinued.
Luckily enough, it was "related" to another product which led me to find this:
http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-Flex...?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1339419456&sr=1-39
Same as the iPhone dock, only costs double the price. Instead of Apple connector, its a microUSB.
edit:
Hold on, found this. Same product (moreless) but $18
http://www.amazon.com/Accessory-Pow...?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1339419702&sr=1-19
edit:
Okay now its pouring in, found an even cheaper one ($13) lol.
http://www.amazon.com/GSI-Dock-Moun...-Smartphones/dp/B004006L7W/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_2

Okay, so there was more to this story than I thought. Wondering how I couldn't find any in the sea of thousands of other (mostly iphone) fm transmitters.
Anyways, back on ebay and finally found this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/17083475...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649#ht_3398wt_1270
Same as the other ones (~$20) but ships Internationally so anyone can get a hold of it.
It looks to be too small to fit the beast, and the seller hasn't responded back to my message.
But another seller has.
And no, the clamps maximum width is 80mm. We need at least 83mm, or ~90mm (comfortably) to clamp the note. But I have good news from the seller:
"But we will list another item which will fit for your Samsung NOTE,
Please come back to our shop 10 days later,or I can notice you when we list the item."
"Ok,I will let you know when we get new model.
Please don't worry,we have professional Technician?"
I'll keep this thread updated once I get my hands on it.
(ps I broke my windshield mount the other day, so hopefully 2-angry-birds-1-stone)

just to let u know, transmitters/holders that plugs into the cigarette lighter last a week max.
once the rubber that that goes into the cigarette light wears out, its all over, it wont stay up.

werks said:
just to let u know, transmitters/holders that plugs into the cigarette lighter last a week max.
once the rubber that that goes into the cigarette light wears out, its all over, it wont stay up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the input.
I'm going to try anyway and give a review. It shouldn't cost much $15-$30 so the burden wouldn't be great.
And if it does fall apart, I'm planning on modifying it so it becomes a windshield mount.
That way I can have eyes on the road, and glanceable navigation... while having music from car speakers and hands-free phone function. The Ultimate Road Warrior! xD

this is what i would do if i werent to invest in a head unit.
www.firesport.com.au, buy a 2nd hand amp for cheap.
connect the amp to speakers.
connect the note directly to amp via cheapo 3.5mm to aux cable.
sound quality will be 10x better than transmitter lol.
migrate amp to next car

werks said:
this is what i would do if i werent to invest in a head unit.
www.firesport.com.au, buy a 2nd hand amp for cheap.
connect the amp to speakers.
connect the note directly to amp via cheapo 3.5mm to aux cable.
sound quality will be 10x better than transmitter lol.
migrate amp to next car
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks.
Of course the advantage of the ebay item is that its too easy to setup and can work in literally all cars. And the unit is still purposeful even if the fm isn't transmitting (ie phone holder + charger).
And you will definitely get x10 better sound via a wired solution.
I'm tempted to try both methods, not much to lose.
For now I just have to wait and see the item description when its up and report back.

The problem is the head unit in some cars, such as mine, are built in and cannot actually be changed our it's a big job. I was still using my Nokia N8 for music duties untill last week as it has a transmitter built in, but I've just gotten a Belkin from Amazon and it's superb. Still has to be plugged into the cigarette lighter but I don't mind that.

FlamingGoat said:
The problem is the head unit in some cars, such as mine, are built in and cannot actually be changed our it's a big job. I was still using my Nokia N8 for music duties untill last week as it has a transmitter built in, but I've just gotten a Belkin from Amazon and it's superb. Still has to be plugged into the cigarette lighter but I don't mind that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're into a bit of soldering, I have successfully added aux into older cassette deck stereos and my DAB stereo clock radio.
Basically, you open up the head unit/radio, google the chip numbers, find a datasheet. Only one of them will be some kind of mixer/preamp/processing chip. Find the pins that are the input L/R and ground. Then solder a 3.5mm stereo lead in. Close it up, plug in your phone, hey presto, AUX in! And better than any FM transmitter.
On the cassette radio, I just wired in to the cassette audio input and disconnected the tape motors. On my clock radio, I added a 2 pole 2 way switch to toggle between the tuner input and my phone. Later I'll add a bluetooth input to get rid of the slight noise hum when my phone is charging.

I bought one,but broken one.

china2834 said:
I bought one,but broken one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which one?
Can you link it for us.
I got a response from another seller, and one from local. They won't be getting it.
Its been 6 days since I received the email from one seller who said they will get NOTE compatible models (hopefully 90mm wide, so NOTE with case can also fit).
So there's another 4 days until he will respond back to me with the link, and then probably a week or two until I can test it.
Getting excited!

I know you said you wouldnt be keeping this car long but imho you would be much better served changing your head unit to one with bluetooth. You can find used ones in great condition shipped on ebay for$100. Installation time is under an hour. Trust me its worth it. My head (eclipse cd5030) automatically connects to my phone as soon as i start the car. No wires, just press play. And also, it has a usb plug for charging it.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

That's a good idea.
My options seem to be:
-FM transmitter/dock
-Change head unit for Bluetooth (break the overhead display and car cpu though)
-Change head unit for AUX in (break the overhead display and car cpu though)
-Install a low-powered/cheap amplifier with an AUX in.
Here's the inside of my car (though not so new, heh):
The head unit (ie CD slot and music controls) is located in the middle of the centre-console.
The actual display for it is displayed higher up on the centre-console.
The display is also wired into the car, if the engine runs out of power for a second, it locks and needs the password. Same thing if I jump start someone.
If I can install a new head-unit without stuffing up the relay going between the display and car cpu, I'd be all set... I wished I was more experienced in this field
Anyways, I've already decided on my next car, so I better start saving now:

I may be wrong buddy but i believe that your stock equipment is set up for an optional CD changer from the factory so there will be an option for an auxiliary input..
What you need to do is call an aftermarket car audio supplier and ask about a 3rd party wiring loom, more than likely they will have a plug in solution for it..

bazrippa said:
I may be wrong buddy but i believe that your stock equipment is set up for an optional CD changer from the factory so there will be an option for an auxiliary input..
What you need to do is call an aftermarket car audio supplier and ask about a 3rd party wiring loom, more than likely they will have a plug in solution for it..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree with that,
Kangal,
Most of the car stereos have port to get AUX out behind. An audio shop can use this to get a 3.5 mm female port

A new quality brand like pioneer car stereo with aux on the front is about $45 NZ these days. Problem solved. And you never know your stereo may have line in in the back you could use.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using xda app-developers app

I have the same problem as you.
My solution requires the following equipment :
1. Jabra SB600 car hands free
2. Original Samsung car dock for Note.
You basically pair your Note with Jabra via bluetooth and the Jabra transmits the audio via FM to your car radio. Simple, clean, no wire solution. Music and calls play via your car speakers and the Jabra's DSP does a fantastic job to cut out ambient noise in a moving car.
The sound quality is decent. Probably not the very best, but bearable. And more importantly, it gets the task done without any extra wires and stuff. Consider it a trade-off between ripping out / modding your car stereo and making no changes at all.
Though the Jabra's price may be a bit steep, it is a better bet if you consider it against replacing your stereo or spending the time (and taking the risk) on modding it.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using xda app-developers app

I'm assuming that not a whole lot of people here are really into cars. I am really into modding my car and one aspect of that is audio. I love car audio and have a moderately nice system in my car. I can say that if you're looking for a good way to integrate your phone as your main source of media, then perhaps a new head unit would be a great upgrade for both your media and for your car.
Some people may be on a tight budget, and if so then the previously mentioned solutions may be the only options viable to you, but if you are willing to branch out and see what you can do with your ICE (in car entertainment), then you may find something that you might want to invest in.
So what are the options? You can use a wired fm transmitter, and as people have mentioned, you're dealing with wires and such. You also have wireless fm transmitters, which eliminates your wiring, and your results don't stray far from the wired transmitters in terms of sound quality. If you're willing to upgrade your headunit, then you have two options, single dins which is the base tier headunit. It has most, if not all, of the features your stock headunit has, and a few extras. If it is equipped with bluetooth, you can send/make calls from the headunit, but most single dins don't solve your audio needs in this way. What you want to look for is if it equipped with USB, so you can connect your phone via USB and play your music that way. Yes it does involve wiring, but there have been many ways to tie in a nice docking station for your phone to really make it appealing to many users. Double dins are almost always touchscreen type headunits and are a great way to upgrade your system. They have many more features that single dins will not have, such as GPS, movie viewing, etc. These types of headunits will follow single dins in that you will be wiring your phone via USB to source your music. I think there may be some double dins that are capable of bluetooth audio but I am not totally sure as mine does not have that feature as a 2011 model from Alpine.
W W W[dot]thebizzy[dot]com/technical_pages/thebizzy/audio/ipod2.jpg
Here is an example of how many users like to mount their phones/ipods/etc.
I will say that the benefit of a wired connection over a fm transmitted connection is that the sound quality is so much better. Music is much more crisp and clean with none of that distortion. Granted your overall sound quality will be determined by the quality of your speakers, but the differences from a USB connection and an fm transmitted connection are really noticeable.
So think about what your budget is and what you really want in your car audio system/integration. I went with a double din because the features are just spectacular. I do want to note though, that a headunit does not make your car system sound better, you need to upgrade your speakers, amps, subwoofers, etc. The main purpose for a new headunit is features. For me, I went with the double din because of benefits such as GPS, bluetooth (syncs my entire phonebook so I can just search for people whom I need to contact, shows recent call logs, auto answering for incoming calls), better interface when selecting music (it can utilize the entire interface of the ipod giving me access to movies, artists, playlists, genres, etc.), and overall ease of use.
So to conclude I'd recommend you find out what you want, and what your budget is, and start a project because my daily commute is worlds better than what it used to be because I made my upgrade happen. If you have any questions about ICE then feel free to ask.

Review of HiFimeDIY Sabre Android DAC w/lots of pics!!!

This is a review of HiFimeDIY Sabre Android DAC. http://hifimediy.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=124
As many of you probably noticed, I have been focusing a lot lately on headphones and portable DAC/Amp/DAP reviews. There is no denial, our smartphones becoming our personal entertainment center to watch tv shows and movies, to play video games, to listen to music, to stream social media, and so on. The smartphones get bigger, more powerful, and have better displays. But one thing still remains the same - the sound delivery is nowhere near a hi-fi quality. For those who are OK with a pair of $10 earbuds, this will not be an issue because you will not hear a difference. But for others who value a sound quality and have an audiophile collection of headphones - you are limited by a sub-par internal DAC which takes a raw digital audio data and converts it to analog signal delivered to headphone jack inside of your phone. This is a not a clean solution to drive a quality headphones. Fortunately, there is a number of portable mobile DACs and amplifiers. Some can connect to your micro-USB port to receive a raw digital audio data for external processing, while others can take output of your headphone jack and process it through external amplifier. Unfortunately with a combined DAC/amp device you don't have a flexibility to use a different amplifier, and driving an external amp from headphone jack will mean amplifying already processed audio signal. That's where HiFimeDIY Android DAC comes to the rescue!
I wasn't even aware of this product until someone mentioned to me in the forum with a request to review it. This Android DAC is a very compact solution of bringing your digital audio outside of your phone to be processed with an external DAC. Using PCM2706 USB receiver which accepts up to 48kHz/16bit audio and also a popular Sabre ES9023 DAC chip, you get a clean analog conversion of the extracted digital audio signal brought out to 3.5mm port. You can connect your headphones directly, but that's not the main intent of this product. Just for the purpose of using headphones without amplifier, I'm not sure if it makes sense to add another dongle to your phone. But if you want to drive your high impedance headphones from a portable amplifier or want to connect your phone to a high class audio system - this little gadget for under $30 will be a perfect solution! One thing to mention, since it doesn't have built in rechargeable battery, it will source a power from your phone, but I haven't noticed any major drain.
The analog output from this Android DAC sounds relatively clean and neutral. I tested and compared it to my Note 2 headphone output, and you can really hear a difference at higher volume where Note 2 DAC starts to saturate while Sabre is still clean. Of course, you can always go with a fully integrated solution such as I have with FiiO E18 or Beyerdynamic A200p, but that cost anywhere from $160 to $300 and more. I don't have any dedicated headphone amps to test with now (never had a need since I have all low impedance headphones), but hopefully will update my review in a near future when I get one. Overall, with HiFimeDIY Sabre Android DAC you have more flexibility and can pick your own amplifier to match your favorite set of headphones with your smartphone.
Here are the pictures.
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I use this in my car, definitely better than using the headphone out. I also have the Fiio E17, which I prefer, but it's too much hassle for my car setup.

Nice clean setup!!!

Interesting review.
Have you tried with latest KitKat roms?
When you connect you headphones, will the volume change with volume keys?
How is the sound when connected with an external amplifier? Have you tried to compare it to a good CD player?

vectron said:
As many of you probably noticed, I have been focusing a lot lately on headphones and portable DAC/Amp/DAP reviews.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I forgot to ask you where did you buy the item. I've found it on eBay.
Inviato dal mio GT-N7100 utilizzando Tapatalk

Yes, you should be able to change the volume. What it does is bypasses your phone's "dirty" DAC so the signal doesn't get converted internally (digital to analog), and rather comes out digitally through micro-usb connector to this external "clean" DAC.
Sorry, I'm all stock Android 4.4.2 on my Note 2. And you can buy it directly from their website (per link in my review) or probable ebay, though make sure it's a legitimate seller because ebay has a lot of fake stuff. I received mine directly from HiFimeDIY as a review sample.

vectron said:
Yes, you should be able to change the volume. What it does is bypasses your phone's "dirty" DAC so the signal doesn't get converted internally (digital to analog), and rather comes out digitally through micro-usb connector to this external "clean" DAC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My S4i are designed for iPhone but the middle button still works on my Android phone. However, it isn't working with my new HiFimeDIY Android DAC. I have a single-button cable for IM70 coming in the mail so I'll post my findings with that. I'll be really disappointed if I can't use controls with this since it improves the sound so much on my Moto X.

Slusho said:
My S4i are designed for iPhone but the middle button still works on my Android phone. However, it isn't working with my new HiFimeDIY Android DAC. I have a single-button cable for IM70 coming in the mail so I'll post my findings with that. I'll be really disappointed if I can't use controls with this since it improves the sound so much on my Moto X.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's NOT supposed to work. When you push remote button on your S4i or IM70, it sends a special signal to headphone jack of your phone to control the playback or call, etc. That's why those headphones connectors have TRRS connector - Tip Ring Ring Sleeve. HiFimeDIY headphone connector is TRS (Tip Ring Sleeve) so that special control signal will not be decoded back to your phone through micro-usb connection (it's lost). That connection is for AUDIO only, while your headphones send audio and data (control).

vectron said:
It's NOT supposed to work. When you push remote button on your S4i or IM70, it sends a special signal to headphone jack of your phone to control the playback or call, etc. That's why those headphones connectors have TRRS connector - Tip Ring Ring Sleeve. HiFimeDIY headphone connector is TRS (Tip Ring Sleeve) so that special control signal will not be decoded back to your phone through micro-usb connection (it's lost). That connection is for AUDIO only, while your headphones send audio and data (control).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
UGH. If I've learned one thing in my recent foray into audio equipment, it's that you have to make tradeoffs. If I want quality audio, I have to pull my phone out of my pocket every time I want to pause, change volume, or skip to the next track. How do we have hoverboards and magic pocket computers and virtual reality but we don't have this!? This is why people use iPhones. For the added features Android provides, you need to be okay with a lot of things not working or being subpar (like DACs and audio controls). Also, maybe you should have mentioned that (unless I just missed it)?

Does yours have a loose USB connection? Mine can slip out.

Slusho said:
Does yours have a loose USB connection? Mine can slip out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, it does. Stay tuned, I'm posting a review of Cozoy Astrapi in a few minutes

I'm noticing a trend. You seem to not mention negatives in your review.

Slusho said:
I'm noticing a trend. You seem to not mention negatives in your review.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Negatives come from a comparison of one product vs the other. Read my Cozoy Astrapi review, you will see negatives about HiFimeDIY If I don't like a product, I simply don't review it. If I like a product, I will describe it in details so you can make your own judgment. And sometime I get very impressed with "positives" about the product, but rest assured - if you read my reviews carefully, I point out negatives as well. Just that my format is not like other reviewers where they make a list of positives and negatives. Plus, in my opinion, a lot of negatives come from an extended use of the product after you get to know it better lol!!! Unfortunately, I have written hundreds of reviews and it will be next to impossible to come back to every review with a follow up impressions. Thus, I'm depending on you guys to ask me questions
One more thing. I'm not working for a website or a blog where they give me to review products, and I review to decide if I like it or not. I do my own research and contact companies of products that I like and want to review. That also makes a difference on a more positive outlook of my reviews

HI all
I have a hifime for android and it works great with my moto G.
I recently got a Huawei Honor 6 phone which supports OTG USB (i can plug a USB key trhough the USB port and read files like movies)
Now when i plug the hifime dac, it does'nt work. The led is green but doesn't deliver any sound...
I though the requierement was to support USB OTG only... Kind of desapointed.
Any tricks?
Thanks!
K

kalapyu said:
HI all
I have a hifime for android and it works great with my moto G.
I recently got a Huawei Honor 6 phone which supports OTG USB (i can plug a USB key trhough the USB port and read files like movies)
Now when i plug the hifime dac, it does'nt work. The led is green but doesn't deliver any sound...
I though the requierement was to support USB OTG only... Kind of desapointed.
Any tricks?
Thanks!
K
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also has to do with Android version, in case if they customized it.

So what should i do? Is there any fix ? Busybox? Firmware? Kernel ? What about cm?

kalapyu said:
So what should i do? Is there any fix ? Busybox? Firmware? Kernel ? What about cm?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would probably contact hifimediy to ask what they can recommend. Sorry
Also, try this app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.extreamsd.usbaudioplayerpro (scroll down, they have a link to a limit demo version). It has its "own" built in drivers to send audio over usb. See if this going to help.

SWC command repeat issue (VW CAN-BUS)

Hi, i hope this is the right forum to post my problem.
I have brought up this issue before, but would like to use the new layout to post again.
I'm still having issues with the SWC controls sending a repeat signal (3 repeats) every time one of the SWC buttons are pressed. I have tried apps like CarService and assigned a delay to the key press, but it does not seem to have any effect.
Has anyone had this issue before and how was it resolved? Is this a know issue or am i not setting it up correctly...

does this happen all the time or just during / short time after startup?

Hi @darkalex, this is a continues problem and is not affected by startup or uptime. I have kept my MCU and firmware updated with the hope that a update would fix it.

@kvantum had a similar problem with his SWC.
Posted in: Old Q&A-Thread - This Thread will be split into multiple KB-Thread soon Post #1868
"SWC and CANBUS
Ok so I've been dealing with a problem for some time, but my seller is now stumped, apparently involving an engineer at this point.
Wondering if anyone else experienced the same - I can't be the only one.
I have a KLYDE unit made for a mazda CX-5, and the SWC controls are... strange
Some buttons, when I hit them - get registered as 3 presses. So skipping a song skips 3. Hitting VOL+ increases by 3, etc. Pickup/hangup don't work.
The app for button re-mapping doesn't register any keypresses at all. CANBUS app sees me opening and closing a door. Seller confirmed I got the right decoder for my car, and all the settings are correct, including canbus type in Factory Settings.
Has anyone else experienced such behaviour?"

Oh yea, this issue drove me nuts
Seller/"engineer" couldn't figure it out. I ended up fixing it myself. The problem is with the canbus box.
To fix it you'll need to do some cable splicing.
There are 3 cables going from swc into the stereo - 2 data one return. One data for media and one for Bluetooth controls. You may have 1 data 1 return. It depends on the car.
Each button represents different resistor value. Stereo monitors this resistor value to determine if a button is pressed and which one, depending on resistance read. This is what's supposed to happen with that button learning utility in settings. You may have noticed that it's useless right now.
So, these cables are currently going into the canbus box, which interprets the resistor values and sends a command to android via serial interface, and it does send 3 signals (I monitored the serial port).
The stereo itself has the input cables necessary to interpret the resistor values itself without canbus unit.
My stereo unit has a schematic on top, and those cables are called Key1 & Key2 for data and "Steering wheel ground" for return.
In my case the data wires were just hanging loose, and steering wheel ground was connected to regular ground.
So, I had to figure out which cables to cut going into the canbus box. I happened to have a schematic for my car, but there are ways to figure it out without it. Feel free to post picture of your canbus box, one of the top and one of the cable connector, bonus if you got the full cable connector pic as well. I can help you figure it out.
So, what I've done is cut those cables away from canbus box and connected them directly to stereo. Now all buttons behave properly, and the button learning utility works as well. And since the canbus box is still connected, the door open indicator still works as well.
Also I bought a reverse camera which wouldn't turn on when in reverse gear. I managed to fix that by splicing cables as well.
I only got one picture of the actual work I did.
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I added some connectors so I could easily switch back if I had to, but I never did because everything works great now.
So, if you decide to go through with all of this, feel free to ask questions. Be as detailed as possible describing your set up if it looks different than mine, take lots of pictures, I'll try to help as much as I can.
PS Oh hey, new layout!

Thanks so much @kvantum, this is really awesome news and thanks for the explanation. I'm going to try this out on Saturday and hopefully i wouldn't have to bug you to much.
PS: I'm not able to see the picture you added, but i'm sure i'll manage.
I'll take your advise and document the mod and add to the forum later on, if successful.
I really appreciate the reply and i hope this will reach others that was struggling with this issue.
My specs for reference:
Vehicle: 2010 VW Jetta 5 1.4TSI DSG
Head Unit: KGL

Can you see the picture now?
And I have a correction to make. Looking at the image, I'm realizing that "steering wheel ground" was just going to regular ground.
So on the car end I didn't terminate that cable anywhere. On the stereo end that cable was already spliced into ground (you can see the bundle spliced under my nail in the photo above)

I can see you picture now, thanks!
I have taken some pictures of my setup, but not sure how to upload them (should i upload them somewhere and then post the link or how do you embed them?)
My Key1 & Key2 wires are also hanging loose so i suppose my mod will be similar to yours. I have the plug pinouts for both the head unit and the VW EOM square plug so it should not be to difficult to find the right wire to splice.
Once i figure out how to upload the pics i'll do so (Some guidance here will be appreciated)

Just to add, my CAN BUS does not show any of the car information. No indication of doors that are open and it also does not display any radio/music info in die instrument cluster...
Is there a trick to get this working or should it be working in the first place?
With all of these features not working i'm not actually certain what the Can Bus Box does in my setup.

I don't think there's a way to upload pictures to the forum. I use my web site. If you have dropbox you can put them into your public folder and embed or link. Include your schematic/pinouts too if you want me to confirm.
Canbus box might be responsible for things like dimming trigger when you turn headlights on or reverse camera trigger when in reverse gear. It wasn't in my case, but I've heard of others with such setup. Disconnect it and see if anything stops working.
I don't know of a simple way to get the canbus box to do more than what it does. Same as I don't know how to stop it from sending 3 signals instead of 1. They programmed it, and it's not worth trying to reverse engineer it.
I am however playing around with arduino canbus shield so I can have complete control of the information sent to the stereo. That'll take a while though as it's not really my priority right now.

The CANbus (controller area network bus) is a vehicle bus standard designed to allow devices to communicate with each other without the need of a host computer.
The HU don't come with a CAN bus they have a Decoder Box that tries to interpret signals on the bus for the HU. If you are having problems with the HU not responding correctly either you have the wrong decoder, the HU is set up for the wrong decoder, or that function is not available with aftermarket decoder boxes.
Maybe Contact Rambo @joying. When I original bought my unit they didn't support factory amps. I had to use a PAC decoder. Then he told me that they figured it out and he sent me a new decoder box. After replacing the PAC, all kinds of things started showing up.
What Vehicle, HU?

I have a 2014 Mazda CX-5 with a Klyde HU
My canbus decoder actually says CX-5 on it. Interesting to hear if there's a better decoder out there, I couldn't find anything

@kvantum As you can see i also have the Key1 & Key2 wires that are not connectet. If i understand correctly i must connect the (Brown) Key1 &Key2 wires directly to the CAN + and CAN - (Green) wires on the VW Quad Socket. How do i know which wire to connect to what pin. Eg Key1 -> CAN + and Key2 -> CAN - or vice versa?

Hear are the pictures of my wiring harness, CANBUS Decoder and VW Quadlock Socket as well as the wiring diagrams for the HU and the VW OEM Socket.
Wire to enable or disable CANBUS Power ON control of the HU:
CANBUS Decoder:
Head Unit Wiring Diagram:
Loose Wires [Brake, Amp-Ctrl, Key1 &Key2]:
VW OEM PLUG:
VW OEM PLUG Wiring Diagram:
VW Plug n Play socket:
Wiring Harness:

Hi have a 2010 VW Jetta 5 1.4TSI DSG and a HuiFei/Kei Ge Le [KGL] Head Unit

Ok, bad news.
Looks like your car doesn't supply direct wires to the steering wheel controls.
In my car, I had SWC wires going directly to the stereo.
In your case, SWC send signal to CANBUS, then stereo sniffs the signals from CANBUS, with no SWC cables to the stereo.
Unfortunately, there is no easy/cheap workaround for you. Sorry
Here are some other options I can think of:
-If you don't care about radio and stock mp3 player and instead use aftermarket MP3 player, there's CarService app that's now included with Malaysk's roms. On my request @KeiserSozeyFr included an option to ignore repeated button presses up to x ms (configurable).
Also available here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=53678587&postcount=1179
This was before I was able to figure out the wiring, but I believe the option is still there. Volume will still jump in 3s though.
-Try finding another decoder, or see if SWI-X by pac-audio can do the job
-See if your steering wheel has 2 or 3 cables coming from the SWC module before hitting canbus. To see if you can use them, use a multimeter to measure resistance between those cables (disconnect them first). When pressing a button, you should see changing resistance. If this is the case, then you'll need to connect those to key1+gnd (also key2 if there are 3 cables instead of 2)
-put arduino on the serial interface between canbus decoder and stereo. You can use it to catch the signals from decoder, drop the two repeats, and send single command on to the stereo.
Maybe someone else has better suggestions, but that's what I can think of.

Ah damn, thats unfortunate. Luckily i have not made any changes to the wiring as of yet, just as well.
Thanks for all your input! Much appreciated. I have tried CarService before, but i'll give the new ROM and CS a bash. Maybe just maybe it will work.
Hopefully someone else can assist, but the arduino option sounds like a fun project to explore. Any advise regarding the arduino circuit will be more than welcome.
It's been a while since I've last programmed something...

If you do decide to go the arduino way, I can help out.
It should be fairly simple, with maybe 20 lines of code total.
You can get mini arduino board from ali/ebay for under $5
I would also recommend getting some 2/4-pin male/female connector pairs so that you can easily switch between stock/modified wiring configurations.
Arduino technically has only one serial port, but there's a software serial library that you can use to turn digital pins into more serial ports
For wiring you'll need to cut the two serial cables(TX/RX) between stereo and canbus decoder. Plus you'll need to splice into power + ground to power the arduino(it can take 12V on the VIN pin)
Then serial cables going from canbus box get hooked up to one serial port, from stereo - to another.

I have been reading up on the Arduino option and it looks like most people use this Ardruino Board:
ARD UNO REV3
http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P1424521842
and this shield:
CAN-Bus Shield Microchip MCP2515 CAN controller with MCP2551 CAN transceiver
http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P1865739722
The CAN- and CAN+ connect to the shield and then the shield connects to the ardruino board via the seriel port or pin connections ? Arduino is then connects to a pc via USB to display output and write the code. The interpreted code is then sent via the serial connection/pins to the Rx and Tx inputs on the Head Unit?
Do you by chance know at what bus speed my VW CANBUS runs?
I'm planning to visit the electronics shop on Friday, if it doesn't work out to be to expensive to build. Otherwise i'll try online shops, but will need to figure out exactly what i'll need first.
Have you managed to finish and test your Arduino setup and get it working 100%

@Hein3G I have a 2012 Jetta with a factory amp. The PAC decoder did not allow for SWC but it did turn on the factory Amp. Which is why I harassed Rambo at Joying until they figured out how to turn the Amp on through the CANbus decoder. It cost me $20 in shipping to have them send me the new decoder. It was well worth it.
In the harness they sent me the Key1 and Key2 wires went to the decoder box plug they are not loose. The only loose wires are the Blue power ant., Orange/black ext amp, and the red ACC. My decoder says:
(VW-XZM-03) 18/09/15
For Passat, Sagitar, Tigu, Golf6, Touran, Magotan, Jetta
software: V2.3A (JY)
The decoder they sent you may be the wrong one or outdated. I would contact them before doing anything complicated or expensive.

Microphone noise problem with Dasaita Android Radio

Hello! I've got a 2018 Toyota Auris (yes, i know, in the USA is named Corolla). I changed the radio for a Dasaita PX6 radio with DSP and Android 10.
[**Link to the radio**](https://es.aliexpress.com/item/33011976959.html)
It came with an external Microphone but they don't allow you to use the OEM microphone wich was... honestly perfect. This is what the radio came with:
[**Image of the radio with all the accesories**]
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The microphone connects via 3.5mm Mini Jack. I tested it and I turned the microphone amplification to +10db because if i had it lower, NOBODY CAN HEAR ME. So... +10db, ok.
The audio quality in calls was so horrific that I thought... well maybe is this ****ty microphone, lets try another one. So I bought the Sony ECM-CS3:
[**Sony ECM-CS3 (beautiful)**]
I connected it with the same settings (remember, less than +10db means nobody can hear me), and... I still had the same Issue. The microphone audio is distorted as hell. I tested it by recording a call with my girlfriend. I'm the dude... and i can't even understand myself. The worst part is in the middle, when I am driving in the highway (min. 8 aprox):
[**Sound proof**] (https://freesound.org/s/573025/)
I though about trying to Isolate the microphone with foam because my actual setup is this:
It has foam underneath for vibrations, but the actual microphone has no foam around. I'll test it later but for me it looks more like a software issue.
What do you think? Any idea of how to improve the sound quality? I found this post in a Tacoma forum where **a guy found a way to use the OEM microphone from Toyota in an Android Unit**. But I am scared of not being compatible with the Corollas:
[**Link to his adapter**](https://tombit.com/product/3rd-gen-toyota-tacoma-mic-adapter-atc-ato-fuse-type/)
[**Link to the forum post**](https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-tacoma-oem-mic-adapter.714665/)
Oh! I made a video (in Spanish, sorry. But **it has English subs!**) showing the whole setup of the radio where you can see everything better:
[**Radio Setup**](
)

You have to use the dasaita mic. Other mics don't have the same impedance.
As for quality... maybe your mic or mic input is defective? I use the dasaita mic (and android phone) with no issues.

Bob_Sanders said:
You have to use the dasaita mic. Other mics don't have the same impedance.
As for quality... maybe your mic or mic input is defective? I use the dasaita mic (and android phone) with no issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean the internal one or the external that came inside the box?

The external. I have never tried the internal

I have a 2015 Corolla ZRE181R. I managed the built in mic to work on my Dasaita PX6 MAX10-CP (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001566063752.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2d8f7fdcmptC4w). The trim panel bit I bought from Joying a while back - allows your Corolla (Pre-2017) to take a 200x100 toyota universal unit. Also canbus cables is CB004 so you need to get it from a different listing and not the listing for the toyota universal unit.
But before I got this to work, I ended up blowing a little SPDT switch on the board and that shorted the mic input to ground and I could not even use my front panel mic. My temporary solution was replacing the analog SPDT switch (marked with MIAKI) with a 1kiloohm resistor (across the common and normally closed connection). My brother knows how to do SMD soldering/de-soldering so he helped me on that one (with a little fee). MTKNAVI (the seller on aliexpress) was kind enough to tell me which part I needed to fix the board with once I found where the fault was.
It should be the same unit as yours with a different front panel - just a heads up but all these units are quite generic and even the mainboard uses an STM32 microcontroller and the PX6 board is removable.
Attached is what I worked out - try at your own risk. It may allow you to reuse the amplified mic on the harness and it will sound "OK" but I still have to put this through a road test... If someone comes round to selling this for cheap in a kit - send me a free sample. A decoupling capacitor is recommended for when you wire the buck converter to your cigarette lighter connections. The ground strap for the wiring shield is separate - it never gets connected to the microphone but prevents the wiring from picking up noise.
If you need to read up wiring diagrams get them from toyota-tech.eu or any reliable source which is official or even google can help.
Remember the Dasaita supplied mic (even on the front panel) is around 1kiloohm resistance - anything that is much lower impedance may blow up something on the board and you will need help then. Also cannot confirm if the powered mic will not blow the spdt switch again if I replace it and put in a resistance on the input mic. Someone please see if there is perhaps a protection circuit to add on the mic. Any amplified mic will go boom
Your thoughts?

@nxdesign WOW! I was think of trying something similar in my CHR, great job, man! So I basically need to power the factory mic and run a 1k resistor before plugging it's output into the Dasaita, right?

@nxdesign That's it! Tomorrow I'm doing it! Got a 1k + 5k variable resistor so I can tune the attenuating resistance between 1k and 6k.

I wouldn't use a switching regulator, use a linear 7805.
The "protector" is a capacitor connected directly to the head unit mic+/input. 0.1uf should be fine.

Update: It works!
I left the resistance set to the maximum it can do, which is total 5.6Kohm.
For anyone reading this, if you have the same 2018 Toyota CHR + JBL model, you need to take 12V power from somewhere else, as it's not present in F80 pin 3. I just used the Front Camera power cable from the Dasaita unit, but you can splice any ACC power.
Before plugging in, I checked on an oscilloscope and voltage that I put at mic input to Dasaita was +/- about 30mV. Seems high compared to a passive mic, but it seems to clip only if I purposely talk loud close to the mic in the roof. I'll see if I need to increase the resistance more
@nxdesign your schematic works, thanks a lot! And I confirm I didn't fry anything. When I plugged the jack in the unit, it was still using the internal mic and it was working fine. After a reboot, it started using the car microphone.
@marchnz If you're talking about the buck converter, it's a LM2596. What you wrote is above my current understanding of electronics.

@RPG0 Your setup looks clean but once you are happy with it then do remember to wrap in some wiring harness tape so it's not just wires all over the place and the wires don't get damaged over time. Your regulator needs some kind of enclosure or tape up with kapton tape to prevent any shorts and the like. I used the cigarette lighter connector - you can easily crimp a tap-off if you need ACC. There is also ACC going to the unit - it's the red or yellow wire in the harness that dasaita provides. I reused a power supply for one of these crappy mirror units my dad had in his car - it turned out to inject the least noise from what I had on hand. Once you find the perfect resistance for this I might just do the same for my setup.
@marchnz LM7805 works by wasting the energy to reach that specific voltage (e.g. 5V). Higher the gap between the input and the output - the more heat dissipated. If the upstream is noisy it may not be good enough to filter out the noise at specific frequencies. Some switch mode power supplies have really come a long way and with a switching regulator you really need to massage it to make it smooth. It's the easiest option for most people out there. Even using the LM7805 after a good switching regulator that would be better - you avoid overloading your linear regulator and you killed a lot of the input noise in the switching regulator. If you have a good idea on how to obtain nice stable noise free voltage then we would like to hear it.
I ordered a Daisata 12V to 6V supply intended for original Toyota reversing cameras from the Daisata official store to see if this is something to recommend for the microphone amp power supply. When it arrives and I manage to upgrade the harness with it then I will keep you posted on it. I would assume this what the original Toyota unit would do - with a 6V rail to power the mic and the reversing camera.
I managed to use to use 2 overkill spdt relays to switch video the other day so I can look at the rearview cam when not reversing the car. AV IN does support AHD 720p (no surprise there). Also, I have a nice aftermarket parking sensor setup that outputs to the Canbus to show up on the Daisata screen fooling the unit into thinking I have a parking clearance ecu when I reverse.

@nxdesign I think the current 5.6K is close to perfection.
It was a bit too loud and seemed to clip, but I went into factory settings and set the mic gain to 0 (it was 12 before). Now its still loud enough but also very clear, sounds like talking on the phone.

@nxdesign, 7805/linear vs switched mode/buck - is not about "modern", I suggest using a linear regulator to keep switching regulator noise OUT of the head unit or at least adequately decoupled. Vehicle supply noise you refer to are of low frequency component, while switching is high frequency, so you move the problem either UP or out of the audio spectrum, but it's still there, you just don't hear it. Not good for your head unit though.
I really don't need a lecture in powersupply design, and since you've mentioned that you're buying an aliexpress camera DC regulator, you'll likely be buying a linear regulator - and probably of basic level of electronics.
None of the circuit ideas listed above consider switching noise, nor do they DC block or Noise block / decouple the mic signal to the headunit.
I've had working Toyota factor mic for a couple of years now, creating a similar but properly decoupled and filtered solution a couple of years back.
Finally: decouple the signal to the headunit with a 0.1uF capacitor.

@marchnz I did test a decoupling capacitor on the mic input and it did not improve anything for me. But your consideration is valid and I will add it back when I can. I do decouple off where the power supply gets its 12v and 100nf ceramic is the right capacitor to use. The head unit USB socket 5V was too noisy - any idea why that is and if normal? Will try LM7805 too when I have the chance but right now my setup seems to work fine.
This is what I ordered but my impression is this is just another switching power supply... I'll post pics when I get it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000340322513.html

@marchnz I just did the same thing for the factory mic on my Juke. That one also needs 5V power, if anyone finds this, but only one signal wire.
This time I followed your advice and put a 0.2uF capacitor in series with a 10Kohm resistance because I saw the Juke has mic signal around the 2V area, so it needed DC removal for sure. It works fine.
I think you are both right and wrong about the need of a capacitor.
The CHR factory mic has mic+ and mic- wires which indicate to me there is no DC so no cap needed for DC removal. Unlike the Juke that has only one mic signal back and it's at 2V +/- 0.5V or so.
Used an oscilloscope to confirm and indeed with a cap this went down to AC level.
...Or I might be completely wrong, but both worked for my cars
Edit: Microphone was clipping in fact, changed resistor to 120Kohm, now it's fine. This is for the Juke, with a "Tesla style" unit

@RPG0 could you, please, draw a simple schematic of your wiring? I have done the same wiring on my Nissan and a Pioneer Multimedia source without capacitor and resistance and I get a lot of noise in the mic signal, so I will try adding resistance and capacitor.

A simple em272 did perfectly the job, I set this one at the genuine mic position in a qashqai j11. Mic setting is 5 but I'm going to lower it...