DISCLAIMER:
- FIRST OF ALL, THIS IS 'EXPERIMENTAL'. I'M NOT SUGGESTING DOING THIS TO ANYONE.
- My device HAS NOT warranty SO I HAVE NOTHING TO LOSE (i already get a backup phone).
- If you do this YOU WILL LOSE your warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since i bought my N5X i've noticed the horrible thermal dissipation that it has. It gets warm extremely fast even with very simple tasks, and as a result of that the thermal throttling shut downs the big cluster 'aka big cores' (x2 A57 1.82 ghz) when it reaches 44 celsius degrees (on stock kernel) the performance of the device decreases because it only works with his x4 A53 cores 1.44ghz.
Change the value of the thermal throttling to a high number like ElementalX does (has 46°c by default) is not a solution for me because this device reaches that temp very fast and i am trying to keep the temperatures as low ass posible to avoid the known bootloop issue (or at least try).
This is very homemade. You just will need: LIQUID METAL THERMAL PASTE (not regular) and ALUMINIUM FOIL.
*Unfortunaley i have not many photos of the procedure, but it is not difficult.
STEPS:
We want to improve thermal cooling on the CPU chip, but it's under the ram memory.
Is the RED SQUARE:
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0) UNPLUG THE BATTERY!
1) Remove the motherboard from the device.
2) Locate the metal protection (in the picture that protection has been removed, it's above the chips). And with an anti-static tool remove the "metallic sticker" that it has on the top. Now the RAM MEMORY chip will be exposed.
3) Put a 1.5mm layer of Thermal paste on the RAM MEMORY chip.
4) Now see on the frame and search for the very bad quality thermal pad (color yellow), remove it. Put a very thin layer of thermal paste (covering the perimeter of the square)
5) Do this with the aluminium foil (something like a "heat pipe").
Now reassemble your device and notice how this improves the CPU performance (the big cluster is not at 633mhz or offline all the time) and it does not reachs temps over 50c.
STOCK FRAME (NO MODIFIED) CPU STRESS TEST - MSM_THERMAL OFF:
NON STOCK FRAME (MODIFIED) CPU STRESS TEST - MSM_THERMAL OFF:
NOTE: MSM_Thermal is shutdown in both tests to avoid interferences and see the real results (that's the reason why in the first test the phone reaches 90°c with his non modified frame).
I'm using EX Manager app by flar2 to read the CPU temperatures correctly. You can use CPU-Z too (it reads the temp well), but the Cpu stresser app temperature readings are incorrect.
Like i said in the beginning of this thread, DO NOT DO THIS if you still have your warranty period, and IF YOU DO NOT LIKE THIS, just DO NOT DO IT, i just want to share this.
thanks! I'll try it
Good tutorial=)
To anyone with the warranty still intact/covered, you can use the thermal mod to raise the throttle temperature so it does not suffer performance loss(it works really well on extreme profile)
Edit: Just noticed it now, your cpu reaches 90ºC??? Isnt there something wrong with your nexus? Never seen it hit such high temperatures. The throttle should come into play to avoid it reaching such high temperatures
migueldbr said:
Good tutorial=)
To anyone with the warranty still intact/covered, you can use the thermal mod to raise the throttle temperature so it does not suffer performance loss(it works really well on extreme profile)
Edit: Just noticed it now, your cpu reaches 90ºC??? Isnt there something wrong with your nexus? Never seen it hit such high temperatures. The throttle should come into play to avoid it reaching such high temperatures
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you!, and yes, it reachs that temperature (almost like my Nexus 5 with Snapdragon 800). I know is too much. I did both of the tests inmediatly after a reboot. and yes the phone was warm because here in my country (Argentina) we are almost in summer and the ambient temperature yesterday when i did the tests was about 35°c with an humidity of 88%.
Anyway i must say that my phone within this mod ever worked between 35°c and 57°c in a "winter" day "12°c-19°c". So the thermal dissipation at least on my device is not very good, now it runs appreciably more colder and the CPU temp drop fasters.
very cool modification
I wonder how it would perform if you added holes to the back of the case above the small strip
I am curious how my google live case affects the CPU heat
While I agree with the Thermal paste\Aluminium foil combo, I'm not very comfortable about yours. Which one have you used? I only found this which has to be used only with copper heat spreaders. This is a quote from the link I posted :
"DO NOT USE ALUMINIUM COOLERS or allow Liquid Pro to come in contact with any aluminium, or other non-copper surfaces. Aluminum is not resistant against Liquid Pro and will result in damages to any aluminium surface. Aluminium will dissolve when in contact with Liquid PRO."
marioemp2k7 said:
While I agree with the Thermal paste\Aluminium foil combo, I'm not very comfortable about yours. Which one have you used? I only found this which has to be used only with copper heat spreaders. This is a quote from the link I posted :
"DO NOT USE ALUMINIUM COOLERS or allow Liquid Pro to come in contact with any aluminium, or other non-copper surfaces. Aluminum is not resistant against Liquid Pro and will result in damages to any aluminium surface. Aluminium will dissolve when in contact with Liquid PRO."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
looking at the msds for the paste, it contains gallium which does not mix well with most metals/alloys
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HKpMYJ-6go
Seems pretty cool, will post a feedback after my warranty will gone.
I just did it!
Temperature on normal use is decrease around 8 celsius that great to know that this mod is actual work!
and know that my phone is H791 and use the same mainboard as H790,there is H790 on my mainboard .
This seems cool. I wonder how it would perform with copper foil instead.
DO NOT DO THIS "MOD"!!!
marioemp2k7 said:
"do not use aluminium coolers or allow liquid pro to come in contact with any aluminium, or other non-copper surfaces. Aluminum is not resistant against liquid pro and will result in damages to any aluminium surface. Aluminium will dissolve when in contact with liquid pro."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you want to use a normal thermal compound like Kryonaut, that's fine! However, any liquid metal compound like used in the OP is VERY DANGEROUS to use with any sort of aluminium, as they will react, destroy the foil, and destroy your phone.
lazerl0rd said:
this seems cool. I wonder how it would perform with copper foil instead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Copper does not have the same reaction problem, so if you wanted to try with a copper foil, that would work, and I'd imagine it would work pretty well.
This WILL destroy people's phones, aside from the chemical reaction between liquid metal and aluminium, the liquid metal will, after very little use, dislodge and spread throughout the phone, not least under the BGA of the chip you are trying to cool.
I knew it was a stupid idea when I tried it (very carefully with copper tape and proper tools) and I was proven right within 3 days my phone was dead due to the above.
This post should be deleted.
Related
After reading about someone else trying this I decided I'd give it a go too.
I'm writing this up for anyone else with enough skill who would like to try it themselves.
Before I continue, disclaimer time
I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR DAMAGE TO YOUR PHONE, BATTERY OR SELF FROM FOLLOWING THIS GUIDE!
If you do it correctly, however, you will probably get really good battery life, if you bought a quality item.
I have chosen a claimed 3500mAh battery designed for an HTC HD7.
You can get these batteries direct from china, or alternatively (like me) you can source them through our well known friendly auction site.
I chose this battery as it is the same form factor and similar design specs as the HTC Wildfire S original battery. The only difference between them is that the battery contacts are on the wrong side of the battery (right instead of left).
So to begin, I remove the sticky film from the battery, to get to the cells inside.
If you are careful enough you could remove this film without ruining it (like I did!) but its not essential. The more important thing is to not damage the cells inside, keeping your craft knife blade flat to the battery helps prevent this.
Once you are in, the cells need to be removed from the plastic skeleton that gives the battery unit its solid shape, battery contact cutouts and battery retention notches (that keep the contact end locked in place).
I found with the battery I had bought, the two cells were connected with thin metal strips. These made it easy to realign the contact PCB (and foam pads) to the other cell (which would effectively make contact with my phones battery bay possible), the foam pad was glued into place and the contact PCB is just resting on it.
By moving the PCB and turning the plastic skeleton, the original holes for the contacts (four of them) were now on the wrong side, it was a simple case of cutting a new hole for this contact plate to show through.
When trying to retrofit the case back into the phone, I realised the notches that keep the contact end in place didnt fit correctly, this meant I had to cut away the edges on the new battery contact side for it to fit.
Once the cells were back in place in the skeleton, it was just a case of replacing the sticky-backed film and fitting a silicone case to prevent the battery from falling out!
I havent had time to test the full life of the battery, so the 3500mAh is only "claimed" and not confirmed for now.
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Those pictures are the biggest I've seen, what camera you used?
Sorry for the large pics! I just IMG linked from photobucket...
They were taken with a Nokia X-6 8Gb (the wifes).
I can confirm that the battery must be either low quality twin 1750mAh cells or high quality twin 1230mAh cells.
Voltage has ranged from a normal 3.7v to 4.2v, I've had no bad side effects from this.
Temperatures have been better than with the normal cell. It sticks at a steady 25c and 26c while charging.
I have been getting 6 days standby/very light use (two calls a day, data mostly off) and two days extremely heavy use (calling, SMS, full data incl. WiFi 802.11n unrestricted plus regular GPS use).
So all in all, a healthy increase on standard battery life. I've gotten used to the extra thickness and the silicon case holds it in very well, with no restriction on the camera lens or flash (I presumed with stretching it, it may obstruct the camera and flash).
Just thought I'd add, I've rooted and stripped back the OS and I'm getting even better battery life.
Please compress Your images to a reasonable filesize before upload with www.gimp.org e.g. Thanks
I would be worried about an overheating problem.
No over heating at all.
It still provides the same life as it did when I first hacked it.
I would never be able to go back to my original battery now.
Since updating the ROM I can control the clock speeds more effectively, giving me more than two days on heavy use (Its always being used as a hotspot for my A500 on the train and when local WiFi is crappy).
I've been able to live with the extra depth to the phone, worth the effort IMHO.
I've just taken an interim screenshot at 14 hours from 100% and will post it and the follow-up sometime after tomorrow. Gonna run it down to nothing to prove how worth it this hack really is.... well, for someone who cant afford a better/newer phone that is....
woprr said:
Please compress Your images to a reasonable filesize before upload with www.gimp.org e.g. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, will do after I've got the last screenshot as I dont want to interrupt the battery graph.
I've just taken the silicone case off and found the battery to be cold, nevermind hot.
I think its probably because of the lower drain on it. It was designed for a more powerful and feature rich phone after all....its probably only drawing 2 thirds the current that the HD7 requires at normal usage....
EDIT- Done. Photobucket allowed me to re-size online....
I think I might get round to making a more permanent back cover from my original too...
Phone screenshots attached.
This was from a standard early week usage scenario, I use my tethering on the train twice a day and when the studio's WiFi craps out or someone decides to stream. I call a few people here and there and text quite a bit.
Seems as though the major drain is the screen, I never think to turn the brightness down these days as the handset is that quick with Alquez' ROM and its OC that I'm seconds doing whatever....
forgot to click upload....duuuurrr!!
it is worth giving a try.Later will post the result
good job but LOL... that reminds me of teletubbies!
So guys,yesterday my extended battery(original Sammy 2000mAh one) came and,apart from all the other things I noticed,I noticed that there is a "gap" around the camera.What I mean is that there is space between the battery cover and the phone's back.Now,one thing I noticed was that the phone didn't get as hot anymore,probably because the plastic cover isn't in direct contact with the phone's back(where the CPU and GPU are housed) and air acts like some sort of coolant.
What I was thinking is,if we could fill that empty space(with the Honeycomb-like holes) with some thermal conductor(was thinking of thermal grease,the one we use in PC CPUs) and covering it with a little metallic...something,like thin aluminum sheets.Maybe that way,the phone's heat dissipation would be somewhat better.What do you guys think?Maybe this is all a big pile of bull**** I came into thinking,but maybe it's not bull****.
tolis626 said:
So guys,yesterday my extended battery(original Sammy 2000mAh one) came and,apart from all the other things I noticed,I noticed that there is a "gap" around the camera.What I mean is that there is space between the battery cover and the phone's back.Now,one thing I noticed was that the phone didn't get as hot anymore,probably because the plastic cover isn't in direct contact with the phone's back(where the CPU and GPU are housed) and air acts like some sort of coolant.
What I was thinking is,if we could fill that empty space(with the Honeycomb-like holes) with some thermal conductor(was thinking of thermal grease,the one we use in PC CPUs) and covering it with a little metallic...something,like thin aluminum sheets.Maybe that way,the phone's heat dissipation would be somewhat better.What do you guys think?Maybe this is all a big pile of bull**** I came into thinking,but maybe it's not bull****.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, what you're suggesting is adding some metallic plates to form some sort of heat sink. It will not work. In PCs heat sinks work because they work as a conduit for the heat and then the fan would blow at the heat sink to carry away the access heat. Unless you can fit both the fans and metallic plates into the battery case, its a no go. Drilling holes in the battery cover would however help heat dissipation though I'd imagine it wouldn't look pretty.
lambstone said:
Nope, what you're suggesting is adding some metallic plates to form some sort of heat sink. It will not work. In PCs heat sinks work because they work as a conduit for the heat and then the fan would blow at the heat sink to carry away the access heat. Unless you can fit both the fans and metallic plates into the battery case, its a no go. Drilling holes in the battery cover would however help heat dissipation though I'd imagine it wouldn't look pretty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well,I thought about the holes too,but I don't want my phone to look like it was hit by bullets.
I have to say one thing.Heat dissipation sucks when there is no metal.Although I have to admit that the new cover makes things better,it's still not perfect.
Any ideas on this are accepted.
tolis626 said:
Well,I thought about the holes too,but I don't want my phone to look like it was hit by bullets.
I have to say one thing.Heat dissipation sucks when there is no metal.Although I have to admit that the new cover makes things better,it's still not perfect.
Any ideas on this are accepted.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By the way, I was bumming about the forums and found references to this particular case.
Polar Bear Case
I know. Polar Bear... but it does look interesting as it claims to have integrated a heat sink.Seems more feasible as the heat sink is directly in contact with the environment as compared to your original idea of having the heat sink inside the cover. Then I had a thought. Why not mod the cover.
(Images are crude as they were done with paint)
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The square bits are copper plates
The copper plates are painted black for 2 reasons. Black is a better thermal absorber and radiator. In theory, it should absorb heat from the battery/phone and radiate outwards to the surroundings. The 2nd reason is that black would fit better with the case.
The little black dots you see are actually drilled holes which shows the painted black copper plates underneath.
EDIT: On 2nd thoughts, I think it might be better to source for some cheap ebay cover for this mod instead. The extended battery cover is impossible to find.
lambstone said:
By the way, I was bumming about the forums and found references to this particular case.
Polar Bear Case
I know. Polar Bear... but it does look interesting as it claims to have integrated a heat sink.Seems more feasible as the heat sink is directly in contact with the environment as compared to your original idea of having the heat sink inside the cover. Then I had a thought. Why not mod the cover.
(Images are crude as they were done with paint)
The square bits are copper plates
The copper plates are painted black for 2 reasons. Black is a better thermal absorber and radiator. In theory, it should absorb heat from the battery/phone and radiate outwards to the surroundings. The 2nd reason is that black would fit better with the case.
The little black dots you see are actually drilled holes which shows the painted black copper plates underneath.
EDIT: On 2nd thoughts, I think it might be better to source for some cheap ebay cover for this mod instead. The extended battery cover is impossible to find.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep,that seems like a possible solution.But actually kinda ruining the phone's back is bad.Or maybe not.I'll look into it when I have time.Thanks.
I'm actually looking into buying a metal bumper for my phone.Maybe I could make it so that it somehow fits.
I'm using a hybrid case. The metal backplate keeps the fone literally "chilled out"
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
maroofnayeem said:
I'm using a hybrid case. The metal backplate keeps the fone literally "chilled out"
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah,but don't these:
a)Get applied on top of the phone's normal casing like most/all cases?
b)Make the phone too bulky?
I was thinking of getting one,but if I'm going to keep the old back along with the case...I dunno.
Here we have a simple MOD to replace the thermal paste on my Shield TV.
I have not tested to see how bad or if this X1 chip throttles under a good load but I figured it couldn't hurt to replace the TIM with something better than stock. So here we Gooooooo!
Disclaimer: I hold no responsibility if you attempt this and break your device. You my friend bear all the risks.
Here we have the Guts! The Bottom was surprisingly easy to remove with only some clips holding it in place. So pry lightly from the corner and edges and be careful not to pry to hard or insert anything like a spludger as you may break tabs or crack the plastic so be easy and work your way around by hand if at all possible.
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The device does not look as glamorous on the inside as the nvidia renders suggested when it was advertised. lol
It does however show a very small, powerful device, with a lot of added weight to assist in its premium feel and or using the available vertical stand you can purchase from nVidia.
Here is the connection board. I won't have to take all this stuff out at the moment but If there is a bigger demand for it I will later as I can't find many teardowns of the shield anywhere, I had found one but it was not very detailed on the method.
Here is a small piece of tape holding the very small wires away from the heat pipe. Make sure these are clear from the pipe during and after removal as you don't want to pull on them or expose them to direct contact with the heat pipe after it's reinstall.
We start by removing the two small screws holding the fan and heat sink into place.
Sometimes the small anker will come out with the screw but it can be reseated with a little pressure.
Next, begin by removing the three spring reinforced screws applying pressure to the main X1 chip.
Now we get to see and clean the gunk they slathered on at the factory! YAY!
Use some high grade alcohol at least 70% and begin cleaning with some cotton swabs and q-tips.
Ugh!! Clean it..... Clean it real good!
Oooha Shiny!
Clean the X1 chip off carefully and try not to let the gunk flop around and get pushed into the small crevices in the top of the metal CPU lid. We don't want to insulate the heat in the chip. The best method is to soak a cotton ball in alcohol but not too much and go in for one big swipe to get the bulk of the TIM off. Then go back in with a small q-tip to get the remaining film or small pieces of leftover TIM
Now simply use your TIM of choice. I chose Gelid Extreme with a thermal conductivity of 8.5w/m-k as it had exceptional results when I did a similar cooling mod to my Nexus 6P. Apply a small rice grain sized amount to the top of the X1 chip right in the middle. Mine usually end up looking like a small grey Hershey's Kiss. Do not spread it with a card or spreader. This creates air pockets under pressure and insulates the chip from the heat pipe and will cause temperatures to go up.
Now reseat the fan in the exhaust slot first.
Then begin laying heat pipe and copper plate back onto the CPU slowly, and in a straight downward fashion. If the plate makes contact with the TIM and you have to back it out for any reason, you will need to remove and clean the TIM before reapplying because now air pockets will develope.
Screw the 3 screws on the heat pipe back in tightly
Screw the fan back in securely
Clean up and snap the bottom back on and wipe her down and boom your good to go!
To break the paste in a little make sure you heat her up good and play a graphically intense game. Just anything to get the Cuda cores churning a little. Then let her fully cool off at some point by pulling the power cable and letting it sit a little to fully cool in an off state instead of simply just sleeping. This simple full heat cycle ensures the TIM adjusts and sets correctly.
Enjoy!!!:highfive:
I really see no need to do this, but thx anyway
BTW, nice vaping unit
scaramonga said:
I really see no need to do this, but thx anyway
BTW, nice vaping unit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree this is not a mod everyone needs to do because of shields dropping dead from heat damage or anything because they don't. But I did it to mine so I figured having some pics available and such would be at least worth posting and having available. Oh and thanks it is a Mini Volt. It is a tiny little thing! Good for carrying when your just headed to the corner store and back.
What I have found to make quite a difference is to put some thermal pads over the heatsink so that it is thermally connected to the aluminum baseplate.
Do I need ink to do this properly?
Pp.
sent from my stone/stock S6e using microwave technology.
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My screen is working perfectly fine i try to test display all type video work just normal but it just flickering these rainbow / vertical line when i come close to let say smaller pixel like display shot with camera ... or picture with smaller pixel dots....
Have you found a solution? I have the same permanent vertical lines.
Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?
xfim said:
Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, good thought, I will open up the phone and check the connections.
Babakkardan said:
OK, good thought, I will open up the phone and check the connections.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know which one is it, right? The wider one on the bottom. Pry it up (use nails if you wish) and use some alcohol to clean it up.
xfim said:
Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Babakkardan said:
Have you found a solution? I have the same permanent vertical lines.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Abandoned War Place said:
My screen is working perfectly fine i try to test display all type video work just normal but it just flickering these rainbow / vertical line when i come close to let say smaller pixel like display shot with camera ... or picture with smaller pixel dots....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.
jdmst77 said:
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Baking it isnt a good idea. you might damage working things in the process. Usually the RAM chip is the main problem. Check if it is bent a bit on the edges. To test if ram is the problem, put something (aluminum foil, 1mm thermal pad...) on the chip so that it puts pressure on the disconnected areas and reconnects them.
xfim said:
Baking it isnt a good idea. you might damage working things in the process. Usually the RAM chip is the main problem. Check if it is bent a bit on the edges. To test if ram is the problem, put something (aluminum foil, 1mm thermal pad...) on the chip so that it puts pressure on the disconnected areas and reconnects them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sure, it could damage it, but it didn't. For a "completely broken" blue screened device that I purchased for $22.40 off ebay (solely for the display, to fix another device) I had nothing to lose. if it's not done right, anything can happen but I took extra precautions like folded aluminum foil in a sort of accordion like wave pattern so no points are directly sitting on the metal rack. Left ample time for the board to cool before flipping it and before reinserting it into the phone.
Can't argue with the results and people have been baking logic/motherboards for quite some time now just google it and it doesn't hurt to take extra precautions
EDIT: also after removing from the oven, I placed the board between 2 silicone trivets and lightly pressed them together to re-seat any chips/components, on the board
jdmst77 said:
sure, it could damage it, but it didn't. For a "completely broken" blue screened device that I purchased for $22.40 off ebay (solely for the display, to fix another device) I had nothing to lose. if it's not done right, anything can happen but I took extra precautions like folded aluminum foil in a sort of accordion like wave pattern so no points are directly sitting on the metal rack. Left ample time for the board to cool before flipping it and before reinserting it into the phone.
Can't argue with the results and people have been baking logic/motherboards for quite some time now just google it and it doesn't hurt to take extra precautions
EDIT: also after removing from the oven, I placed the board between 2 silicone trivets and lightly pressed them together to re-seat any chips/components, on the board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You did a good job then. Anyway, I would bake the board as a last resort. I'd try a few different things before (heating individual chips)
jdmst77 said:
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Instead if baking the board, how about putting solder paste on the connectors of the cpu & gpu and heating them with a heat gun? Will it give the same result?
---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------
xfim said:
You know which one is it, right? The wider one on the bottom. Pry it up (use nails if you wish) and use some alcohol to clean it up.
Click to expand...
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I think I'll take it to a repairman and have him diagnose it... then if necessary he can use a heat gun to reset the solders on the cpu & gpu....
Update:
I took the G3 to a repair shop, we reset the connections and did the resoldering of the gpu and cpu. But no change in the display lines. The technician deduces it is a damaged display, especially since there is a lot of heat on the CPU area on the display now.
Any other solutions I can try before changing the display?
thanks.
So I just got a One Plus 3 and it has a few scratches here and there. I'm about to order a new screen cause I don't like the few scratches it has on it. Plus since I'm about to open it I was wondering if I can apply some thermal paste on it. Has anyone do the mod yet? I know it doesn't have heating problems but just wondering.
atrix_noob said:
So I just got a One Plus 3 and it has a few scratches here and there. I'm about to order a new screen cause I don't like the few scratches it has on it. Plus since I'm about to open it I was wondering if I can apply some thermal paste on it. Has anyone do the mod yet? I know it doesn't have heating problems but just wondering.
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Haven't opened mine yet to have a good look, but from what I can see in teardown videos it doesn't seem to be a good idea. Have a look at this picture:
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Below and to the right of the camera you can see a light blue weirdly shaped thermal pad. And there's your problem, thermal pads can rarely be replaced with thermal paste. First (minor) problem is the non-rectangular shape and second (major) problem is the fact that you probably won't have enough pressure with paste. Pads tend to be a lot thicker and thus bridge the gap between a chip and heat spreader (phone's back panel in this case). While pads are not ideal thermal conductors, they're still better than paste with poor (or even no) contact.
This mod is more suitable for devices with some sort of dedicated cooling system that is tightly mounted to the chip (like heatpipes in some high-end phones). OP3/T uses just the outer housing, which is at a fixed distance.
And like you said, there are no issues with overheating here so it's probably best if you leave it like it is, it's not worth risking making it worse.
Explorer23 said:
Haven't opened mine yet to have a good look, but from what I can see in teardown videos it doesn't seem to be a good idea. Have a look at this picture:
Below and to the right of the camera you can see a light blue weirdly shaped thermal pad. And there's your problem, thermal pads can rarely be replaced with thermal paste. First (minor) problem is the non-rectangular shape and second (major) problem is the fact that you probably won't have enough pressure with paste. Pads tend to be a lot thicker and thus bridge the gap between a chip and heat spreader (phone's back panel in this case). While pads are not ideal thermal conductors, they're still better than paste with poor (or even no) contact.
This mod is more suitable for devices with some sort of dedicated cooling system that is tightly mounted to the chip (like heatpipes in some high-end phones). OP3/T uses just the outer housing, which is at a fixed distance.
And like you said, there are no issues with overheating here so it's probably best if you leave it like it is, it's not worth risking making it worse.
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Ok, was watching some videos of the teardown and completely agree with you. It's a letdown, but at least we don't have thermal problems. If we could do it it was going to be a great mod.
Ok, I may be late to the party, but I love this crazy hot-rodding stuff. Did a thermal paste mod on my old Galaxy S2 at some point for the lulz (it was half dead anyway). Didn't work, but I didn't do it right anyway.
Now, for the OP3. If you still want to go on with it, yes, paste isn't gonna work. Although I think that there is a metal heatspreader beneath the thermal pad and there's paste between that and the CPU, removing it would be a pain in the butt, but you probably could replace the thermal paste there (I recommend Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, Gelid GC Extreme or Arctic MX4 because that's what I've been using on my PCs for years without issues and they are some of the best in the market). What you could surely try is replacing the pad with a Fujipoly pad. These god damn things have thermal conductivity ratings close to or surpassing even the best thermal pastes and aren't even in the same league as normal thermal pads (Normal would be in the 1-4W/mk, these things rate over 10W/mk). Still, paste is better due to thickness, but that's beside the point here as it's useless.
Am I suggesting you do it? No, it'd be stupid. Will I shed a manly tear if you do it? Hell yes I will.
Best of luck mate! :highfive:
tolis626 said:
Ok, I may be late to the party, but I love this crazy hot-rodding stuff. Did a thermal paste mod on my old Galaxy S2 at some point for the lulz (it was half dead anyway). Didn't work, but I didn't do it right anyway.
Now, for the OP3. If you still want to go on with it, yes, paste isn't gonna work. Although I think that there is a metal heatspreader beneath the thermal pad and there's paste between that and the CPU, removing it would be a pain in the butt, but you probably could replace the thermal paste there (I recommend Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, Gelid GC Extreme or Arctic MX4 because that's what I've been using on my PCs for years without issues and they are some of the best in the market). What you could surely try is replacing the pad with a Fujipoly pad. These god damn things have thermal conductivity ratings close to or surpassing even the best thermal pastes and aren't even in the same league as normal thermal pads (Normal would be in the 1-4W/mk, these things rate over 10W/mk). Still, paste is better due to thickness, but that's beside the point here as it's useless.
Am I suggesting you do it? No, it'd be stupid. Will I shed a manly tear if you do it? Hell yes I will.
Best of luck mate! :highfive:
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Thanks for the heads up haha, I'll probably will check anyways since I'm about to open it in a few weeks when I get the money to buy the screen. Since you mentioned the Fujipoly Pad I'll probably check it out. I already have the thermal take paste TG-7 that I bought a couple of days ago and it's rated 3.3W/MK so that should do the trick. I want to be able to do all at once and run some test before and after the mod so it should be interesting if everything goes right.
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Been wanting to do this mod have you guys seen linus tech tips adding liquid metal thermal paste on razer phones no Thermal throttling whatsoever.
Wish someone would post procedures on these oneplus 3/3T
Oh and theres this also new thermal pads featured on linus tech tips that has an insane heat transfer almost same as liquid metal..
My one plus 3T is kinda suffering from thermal throttling since i live in the philippines where ambient temp is almost 40C
NO don't do it lol. phone's ihs or lid ain't meant to be delid...they are solder or glue heavily to the pcb, forcibly pulling could potentially wreak some of your sensors and component. Even if you do pull it off, you have no way to fixed them back, those are done by machinery at the factory, that's why shops always just swap the motherboard instead of repairing individual die. if you glue it back with glue, you made the temps worst off.
now, if you're talking about linus's mod, he basically paste it on the cover and along the heatsink(which op3 doesn't have!), razer phone could do that because you can separate the screen and the body, op3's screen is glue to the plastic chassis, and there are no layer of plastic like razer to separate the paste. if you apply paste in it, the paste WILL flow around your device due to no pressure, getting on the battery, camera, connection point, ect.
what you can do, what i personally tried is using thermal pads as suggested above. make sure you get a thin one as you don't wanna put pressure in your phone. and for me, i don't really feel any improvement even after the mod, you might as well lay the phone on a cold surface lol.
TL;DR: APPLY A THICK THERMAL PASTE ON ANY METAL SURFACE IN THE PHONE THEN PUT THERMAL PADS ON THE PASTE. SWING THE PHONE AROUND AND PRAY.
Woyld there be any other mod for our 1+ 3T ?
Thermal throttling is a serious issue for us who lives in tropical country
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
atrix_noob said:
So I just got a One Plus 3 and it has a few scratches here and there. I'm about to order a new screen cause I don't like the few scratches it has on it. Plus since I'm about to open it I was wondering if I can apply some thermal paste on it. Has anyone do the mod yet? I know it doesn't have heating problems but just wondering.
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Did you replaced your screen? Mine got shattered yesterday.