Develop Bugs

Samsung Epix Screen Alignment

I did a hard reset, and am stuck at the screen alignment. I installed Remote Screen Alignment, but it appears not to have a setting for the Epix. Also, when I run it, I get an error trying to configure the remote device.
I am wondering if I need to create a .dat file for the Epix. Does anyone know the Epix calibration settings, or some other work around for beign stuck on this screen?
Thanks!

Sorry you didn't get any response faster.
I had the same problem.
I too asked for the dat and others presets.
Guess what if those didn't work the problem is the touch screen digitizer. No way around it, you have to replace it.
It is cheap on ebay $15-19 shipped. I just finished putting it on.
Caution on taking the phone apart. It's not that easy to do so.

Do you have any tips for taking the phone apart?
My digitizer is crazy and I can't get the screen to allign. I'm ready to replace it, but a little weary about taking the phone apart so far.

andy7079 said:
Do you have any tips for taking the phone apart?
My digitizer is crazy and I can't get the screen to allign. I'm ready to replace it, but a little weary about taking the phone apart so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is no resource whatsoever on how to take the phone apart.
I just did it cold turkey. You just can't be afraid.
I took apart an i607 Blackjack before using instructional videos. I think this was a bit easier. Similar and easier.
I did not even refer to those videos again, I just went at it like no ones business. If your scared then you will probably mess up.
You obviously remove the battery tray, battery and sim card
Remove the stylus
Remove the rubber cover nub on the upper left side.
Unscrew all the visible screws. IIRC there are 3 on each side. This is probably one of the tough parts, because each screw looks to have been applied with some loctite material. You really need a proper screw driver. Philips head, but really small. You will see it. If you start stripping the screw, or strip it. START TO GET WORRIED. Because I don't know how you will get it out then. So after you removed all the screws. Do not expect the phone to come off easily.. IT WONT, its like it is still together.
You will need to use some FORCE to pry a small portion of the phone open, and when I say small I mean small because they are clipped together tight.
If you bought the digitizer from EBAY it comes with this
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That included screw driver is a torx head which is no use to you. But that yello tool is what you need to use to pry the case apart without scratching the case.
So again once you pry a small portion.. I STARTED FROM THE BOTTOM, insert that yellow tool in the opening and run it along the case and it will start to pry open the case apart.
After that, you shall see the board.. this is where my memory gets vague.
I don't think there was any other screws to be removed to remove the board, but there might have been 1.
Anyways on the left side you will see a small ribbon cable that runs through the front of the phone, that is the cable that attches to the digitizer. Unclip it and remove it. Then carefully pry the board until you see the front screen digitizer.
Now you will need to decide how you are going to remove this because it is glued on. Be careful as you will need to use force. The OEM case though IS VERY STRONG. I was flexing that b!tch and it did not crack or snap. Good quality for sure Samsung.
Once you have it removed, you will need to have new adhesive, or be ghetto and just peel apart the one from the old digitizer and reposition it for the new one.
Put the new one, attach the ribbon cable and put phone back together.
Wish I could've taken pictures while I did it, but no one ever seems to speak up about calibration problems I thought I was the only one, and I was eager to install it.

I finally got around to fixing the digitizer. Removing the screws went suprisingly well. There was another screw on the PC board that I removed. I reused the adhesive, but I had to trim some parts of it to get it flat. Overall it went pretty well.

Thank you thank you! I just replaced my i907's digitizer and thanks to your thread, it was smooth sail.
If you didn't write it here, I would certainly feared removing the digitizer with such a force, I'd fear that I'm gonna break the frame. Fortunately, Samsung made it so soft it bends almost any angle without breaking.
It helped to put the frame on the table with a digitizer down, push onto the transparent area of digitizer with fingers (starting in some corner), and slowly pull the frame upwards, away from digitizer.
I recommend this seller: http://myworld.ebay.com/e2_express/ - it was a cheapest i907 digitizer on eBay, with free international shipping for $11, and he included all tools I needed for repair. My Epix now works perfectly (well, apart from ROM, but that's a completely different story, f**k you very much, AT&T .

Replace sceen May 2010
This is actually easier and scarier than it sounds.
Six screws: four at the corners of the battery compartment, one under the rubber plug upper left, and one under the stylus. (When putting back together-be careful with the stylus screw. The stylus goes inside and so will the screw. Time to take it apart, again.)
I could not re-use the adhesive. When I was taking off the old screen, the adhesive curled up longitudinally, tried to straighten, then it balled up. My wife scrapbooks so I used her photo adhesive strips. Not as strong, probably not long term, but I needed to put the phone back together.
Putting the ribbon connector back takes patience. Be sure the "clamp" is open before you start.
If the volume rocker comes off, dammit, there is a tiny hole that fits over a tiny peg, then slide the other end into the tiny slot.
I'm impressed with the inside of my Epix. Pretty amazing how much, and how they cram it in there.

OEM Samsung mount drilled for camera

I recently bought the oem samsung mount for my captivate and I love it - but I really wanted to be able to shoot video while driving or on my motorcycle. Since the power plug port on the back of the mount is pretty close to the location of where the camera is, I was pretty nervous about drilling into it in case I hit a wire for the power or audio out. I still need to clean it up a little bit since it's a bit rough at the moment, but it works great! There didn't end up being any wires in the area, so everything functions the way it should (Charging is perfect, I havent tested the audio out since I don't use it, but there are no wires near the hole so I can't see any reason it wouldn't work)
Unfortunately the mount bounces around too much on my motorcycle to produce a good video, I need to work out a better way to mount the phone holder part of the mount to make it more stable. Video from the car looks pretty good though!
Anyway, just thought I would share in case other people wanted to do something like this but were afraid to hit wires or lose some functionality. Here are some quick pictures of the rough product, I'll go back and deburr the edges later today probably
Tools required:
-Drill with drill bits of various sizes up to 1/2" (most sets only go up to 3/8", which might work, not sure.. as long as you can get a dremel sanding drum in the hole it's big enough)
-Dremel with sanding drum and various other bits for finishing
- Measure to find about where the camera lens should be, drill small (1/8" or so) WITH THE SLIDE DOWN in the closed position!
- put phone in mount, check alignment of hole to camera lens. if it's not perfect don't worry, you'll have to make it bigger later anyway. Mine was too close to the edge, which is probably better than drilling too far in.
- drill the hole out with progressively bigger bits; i stepped up a few times before ending with a 1/2" drill bit. as you drill with bigger bits make sure you have a very good grip on the mount (but not hard enough to break it) because as soon as the bit breaks through it will try to rip the mount out of your hands. the trick is to hold it firm enough to keep the bit from ripping it out of your hands without holding so tight that the mount snaps when the bit breaks through.
- take a dremel with a sanding drum and recenter/enlarge the hole. If your hole isn't centered, now is the time to recenter it. when you are done with the sanding drum, make sure to wiggle and try to move the slide before the plastic cools; the heat from sanding will melt the plastic together causing the slide to lock up and not be able to open.
- all that's left to do now is deburr the edges and make it look pretty. I still havent done this yet, but I'll probably just take a smaller sanding tool on the dremel or a small file and put a little radius on the edges
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Looks good, thanks
Thanks. Like to see the finished pics too.

Can we get a step by step

Step by step? there's not much to it really..
Tools required:
-Drill with drill bits of various sizes up to 1/2" (most sets only go up to 3/8", which might work, not sure.. as long as you can get a dremel sanding drum in the hole it's big enough)
-Dremel with sanding drum and various other bits for finishing
- Measure to find about where the camera lens should be, drill small (1/8" or so) WITH THE SLIDE DOWN in the closed position!
- put phone in mount, check alignment of hole to camera lens. if it's not perfect don't worry, you'll have to make it bigger later anyway. Mine was too close to the edge, which is probably better than drilling too far in.
- drill the hole out with progressively bigger bits; i stepped up a few times before ending with a 1/2" drill bit. as you drill with bigger bits make sure you have a very good grip on the mount (but not hard enough to break it) because as soon as the bit breaks through it will try to rip the mount out of your hands. the trick is to hold it firm enough to keep the bit from ripping it out of your hands without holding so tight that the mount snaps when the bit breaks through.
- take a dremel with a sanding drum and recenter/enlarge the hole. If your hole isn't centered, now is the time to recenter it. when you are done with the sanding drum, make sure to wiggle and try to move the slide before the plastic cools; the heat from sanding will melt the plastic together causing the slide to lock up and not be able to open.
- all that's left to do now is deburr the edges and make it look pretty. I still havent done this yet, but I'll probably just take a smaller sanding tool on the dremel or a small file and put a little radius on the edges

Using extended battery's cover's extra space for better thermal behaviour

So guys,yesterday my extended battery(original Sammy 2000mAh one) came and,apart from all the other things I noticed,I noticed that there is a "gap" around the camera.What I mean is that there is space between the battery cover and the phone's back.Now,one thing I noticed was that the phone didn't get as hot anymore,probably because the plastic cover isn't in direct contact with the phone's back(where the CPU and GPU are housed) and air acts like some sort of coolant.
What I was thinking is,if we could fill that empty space(with the Honeycomb-like holes) with some thermal conductor(was thinking of thermal grease,the one we use in PC CPUs) and covering it with a little metallic...something,like thin aluminum sheets.Maybe that way,the phone's heat dissipation would be somewhat better.What do you guys think?Maybe this is all a big pile of bull**** I came into thinking,but maybe it's not bull****.

tolis626 said:
So guys,yesterday my extended battery(original Sammy 2000mAh one) came and,apart from all the other things I noticed,I noticed that there is a "gap" around the camera.What I mean is that there is space between the battery cover and the phone's back.Now,one thing I noticed was that the phone didn't get as hot anymore,probably because the plastic cover isn't in direct contact with the phone's back(where the CPU and GPU are housed) and air acts like some sort of coolant.
What I was thinking is,if we could fill that empty space(with the Honeycomb-like holes) with some thermal conductor(was thinking of thermal grease,the one we use in PC CPUs) and covering it with a little metallic...something,like thin aluminum sheets.Maybe that way,the phone's heat dissipation would be somewhat better.What do you guys think?Maybe this is all a big pile of bull**** I came into thinking,but maybe it's not bull****.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, what you're suggesting is adding some metallic plates to form some sort of heat sink. It will not work. In PCs heat sinks work because they work as a conduit for the heat and then the fan would blow at the heat sink to carry away the access heat. Unless you can fit both the fans and metallic plates into the battery case, its a no go. Drilling holes in the battery cover would however help heat dissipation though I'd imagine it wouldn't look pretty.

lambstone said:
Nope, what you're suggesting is adding some metallic plates to form some sort of heat sink. It will not work. In PCs heat sinks work because they work as a conduit for the heat and then the fan would blow at the heat sink to carry away the access heat. Unless you can fit both the fans and metallic plates into the battery case, its a no go. Drilling holes in the battery cover would however help heat dissipation though I'd imagine it wouldn't look pretty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well,I thought about the holes too,but I don't want my phone to look like it was hit by bullets.
I have to say one thing.Heat dissipation sucks when there is no metal.Although I have to admit that the new cover makes things better,it's still not perfect.
Any ideas on this are accepted.

tolis626 said:
Well,I thought about the holes too,but I don't want my phone to look like it was hit by bullets.
I have to say one thing.Heat dissipation sucks when there is no metal.Although I have to admit that the new cover makes things better,it's still not perfect.
Any ideas on this are accepted.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By the way, I was bumming about the forums and found references to this particular case.
Polar Bear Case
I know. Polar Bear... but it does look interesting as it claims to have integrated a heat sink.Seems more feasible as the heat sink is directly in contact with the environment as compared to your original idea of having the heat sink inside the cover. Then I had a thought. Why not mod the cover.
(Images are crude as they were done with paint)
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The square bits are copper plates
The copper plates are painted black for 2 reasons. Black is a better thermal absorber and radiator. In theory, it should absorb heat from the battery/phone and radiate outwards to the surroundings. The 2nd reason is that black would fit better with the case.
The little black dots you see are actually drilled holes which shows the painted black copper plates underneath.
EDIT: On 2nd thoughts, I think it might be better to source for some cheap ebay cover for this mod instead. The extended battery cover is impossible to find.

lambstone said:
By the way, I was bumming about the forums and found references to this particular case.
Polar Bear Case
I know. Polar Bear... but it does look interesting as it claims to have integrated a heat sink.Seems more feasible as the heat sink is directly in contact with the environment as compared to your original idea of having the heat sink inside the cover. Then I had a thought. Why not mod the cover.
(Images are crude as they were done with paint)
The square bits are copper plates
The copper plates are painted black for 2 reasons. Black is a better thermal absorber and radiator. In theory, it should absorb heat from the battery/phone and radiate outwards to the surroundings. The 2nd reason is that black would fit better with the case.
The little black dots you see are actually drilled holes which shows the painted black copper plates underneath.
EDIT: On 2nd thoughts, I think it might be better to source for some cheap ebay cover for this mod instead. The extended battery cover is impossible to find.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep,that seems like a possible solution.But actually kinda ruining the phone's back is bad.Or maybe not.I'll look into it when I have time.Thanks.
I'm actually looking into buying a metal bumper for my phone.Maybe I could make it so that it somehow fits.

I'm using a hybrid case. The metal backplate keeps the fone literally "chilled out"
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium

maroofnayeem said:
I'm using a hybrid case. The metal backplate keeps the fone literally "chilled out"
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah,but don't these:
a)Get applied on top of the phone's normal casing like most/all cases?
b)Make the phone too bulky?
I was thinking of getting one,but if I'm going to keep the old back along with the case...I dunno.

Easy & Quick solutions: loose battery cover and that thingy under transparent strip

Easy & Quick solutions: loose battery cover and that thingy under transparent strip
Hello, lately i had problems with loose battery cover on my Xperia S, and, thinking about getting it even more loosy by leaving that be brought me to tinkering with easy and cheap solution, and i've found revertible and easy solution for both issues.
Loose battery cover:
A tiny layer of hot glue placed here (image 1) can fix your solution. Keep in mind that too thick layer can bulge the cover a little, work quickly and press on the S(E) logo firmly after cover installation to make the layer as thin as possible. Only drawback is that the glue needs to be reapplied every time you need to change your SIM card. glue can be easily removed without leaving any trace on the phone in case of warranty service request or selling the phone... to remove the cover just use a little bit more force than you are used to.
Image 1 - Personally recommended place to put the hot glue layer:
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Loose plastic thingy covering antenna under transparent strip:
Using a gutiar pick or any similar object (definately NOT screwdrivers or any other metal tools, nails - they are too solid, too, and might damage the plastic, it's better to destroy gutiar pick than look of your treasured phone, trust me)
The picture below shows how to properly remove the thin plastic covering antenna:
Just be carefull and do not use too much force, the plastic is really thin... it might be kinda tricky but you should figure it out eventually...
after successfully removing the cover, use some glue designed to make plastic to plastic connections. (NOTE: cyanoacrylate based glues are not recommended - in case you need to put the cover off again, you will most likely destroy it... I've personally used Revell contacta glue compound designed to glue plastic models - it is firm, but the glue can be easily removed with little effort and the joint is not too superior so it will break sooner than the plastic cover)
After putting few drops of glue (the less is better) just carefully put it back in - this should be easier than removing it, just be sure to fit it properly, it's kinda PITA to put it back down... Let the glue dry and enjoy
DISCLAIMER:
Despite both methods are used and tested for one month by me, I take no responsibility for results. Basics of workmanship skills required (or at least recommended, if you are not comfy with putting your phone apart even a little, then entrust with the work somebody you believe he can get the job done, or just forget about this thread

Nice tips, although I solved the loose battery cover by placing two small bits of blu-tack on top of the two screws at the bottom left and right of the back. That has solved the issue without needing to reglue or get messy every time you need access to the SIM.

Thanks for another tip, when i need to access my SIM card i'll try your method, I've considered it first but i was sceptical a bit about the potential results

loose back cover
I actually just rolled some normal tape on itself and stuck it on the spot where the glue is put (didn't have glue).. Works perfect as well

The tape i've tryed now is most likely using weaker glue than yours and it's not as firm as i would expect but it's quicker solution and undoubtly less messy, not to mention that it doesn't require quick manipulation... I've used standard office transparent tape... i've no access to my toolbox atm as i'm @ work, so i'll try stronger tape when i return home... thanks for your tip

Battery case disassembly (EB-TN930)

Out of curiosity, boredom, and a couple touches of stupidity, I picked up one of the official Samsung battery cases for the original Note 7 to mess around with. I knew going in that it wasn't fully compatible with the FE, but I figured for $7 I might as well take a look and see if there was anything I could do to make it work.
Unfortunately, due in combination to me lacking the proper tools and Samsung's undying love for using strong adhesive to seal together 92% of all products they make, I (probably) took a couple SMDs off the logic board while disassembling the thing. At least, that's my best guess, as it now isn't recognized by my FE at all and just blinks all 4 power indicator LEDs at me. But I figured I'd at least post some pics of the disassembly for you fine folk in case someone smarter (or dumber, who knows) can figure this thing out.
If you decide to go down the disassembly route, just remember that there is a battery inside. One of the same type that made the FE's predecessor go explodey. One that'll make your day substantially worse if you manage to puncture it. Just remember that before you take your screwdriver and go Edward Stabbyhands on everything.
Not sure if this is the right section to be posting in; my apologies if it's not.
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Step 1) - Remove cover with FCC markings (hereon referred to as "FCC cover")
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This cover is held on solely by adhesive.
Grab something very small and sharp; in my case I used a small jeweler's screwdriver and a folding utility knife. Take the screwdriver and wedge it between the FCC cover and the outer plastic case. There's a hard plastic cover underneath the FCC cover, so don't be afraid of damaging anything underneath.
Using the screwdriver as a lever, pry the FCC cover up just enough to get the knife inside; from there, just cut through the adhesive holding the FCC cover to the hard plastic cover underneath. There's significantly more adhesive at the top of the case (near the camera cutout), so I'd recommend starting this procedure from the bottom of the case.
Step 2) - Undo screws
Unscrew the 9 screws seen below. Pretty self-explanatory.
Step 3) - Remove hard plastic cover underneath FCC cover
This cover is held on by a combination of adhesive (around the edges only) and plastic clips.
After unscrewing the screws, repeat step 1) for the hard plastic cover underneath the FCC cover. Since this cover is much more rigid than the FCC cover, you'll need to apply more strength than in step 1). What helped for me was basically chipping away at one edge of the cover until I made a gap large enough to insert my screwdriver into; from there I just pried the cover up enough to get one of my fingers under, after which I just ran my finger around to undo the clips.
Note that the guts of the case reside under this cover, so *be careful. Take a look at the pics at the bottom of this post for the layout of things inside before you start this step.*
I started prying up from the top right of the case; now that I know what's going on underneath I would've started anywhere along the bottom half of the case.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The three main pieces, all together:
Just the guts:
Closeup of PCB:
That's it, go knock yourselves out. I'm a bit knackered right now so lemme know if something above is unclear or if you want me to try doing something else before throwing it away.

as this hasn't been changed since the note 7, any defuncting must be software related, not battery related. Interesting tho.