I recently bought the oem samsung mount for my captivate and I love it - but I really wanted to be able to shoot video while driving or on my motorcycle. Since the power plug port on the back of the mount is pretty close to the location of where the camera is, I was pretty nervous about drilling into it in case I hit a wire for the power or audio out. I still need to clean it up a little bit since it's a bit rough at the moment, but it works great! There didn't end up being any wires in the area, so everything functions the way it should (Charging is perfect, I havent tested the audio out since I don't use it, but there are no wires near the hole so I can't see any reason it wouldn't work)
Unfortunately the mount bounces around too much on my motorcycle to produce a good video, I need to work out a better way to mount the phone holder part of the mount to make it more stable. Video from the car looks pretty good though!
Anyway, just thought I would share in case other people wanted to do something like this but were afraid to hit wires or lose some functionality. Here are some quick pictures of the rough product, I'll go back and deburr the edges later today probably
Tools required:
-Drill with drill bits of various sizes up to 1/2" (most sets only go up to 3/8", which might work, not sure.. as long as you can get a dremel sanding drum in the hole it's big enough)
-Dremel with sanding drum and various other bits for finishing
- Measure to find about where the camera lens should be, drill small (1/8" or so) WITH THE SLIDE DOWN in the closed position!
- put phone in mount, check alignment of hole to camera lens. if it's not perfect don't worry, you'll have to make it bigger later anyway. Mine was too close to the edge, which is probably better than drilling too far in.
- drill the hole out with progressively bigger bits; i stepped up a few times before ending with a 1/2" drill bit. as you drill with bigger bits make sure you have a very good grip on the mount (but not hard enough to break it) because as soon as the bit breaks through it will try to rip the mount out of your hands. the trick is to hold it firm enough to keep the bit from ripping it out of your hands without holding so tight that the mount snaps when the bit breaks through.
- take a dremel with a sanding drum and recenter/enlarge the hole. If your hole isn't centered, now is the time to recenter it. when you are done with the sanding drum, make sure to wiggle and try to move the slide before the plastic cools; the heat from sanding will melt the plastic together causing the slide to lock up and not be able to open.
- all that's left to do now is deburr the edges and make it look pretty. I still havent done this yet, but I'll probably just take a smaller sanding tool on the dremel or a small file and put a little radius on the edges
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Looks good, thanks
Thanks. Like to see the finished pics too.
Can we get a step by step
Step by step? there's not much to it really..
Tools required:
-Drill with drill bits of various sizes up to 1/2" (most sets only go up to 3/8", which might work, not sure.. as long as you can get a dremel sanding drum in the hole it's big enough)
-Dremel with sanding drum and various other bits for finishing
- Measure to find about where the camera lens should be, drill small (1/8" or so) WITH THE SLIDE DOWN in the closed position!
- put phone in mount, check alignment of hole to camera lens. if it's not perfect don't worry, you'll have to make it bigger later anyway. Mine was too close to the edge, which is probably better than drilling too far in.
- drill the hole out with progressively bigger bits; i stepped up a few times before ending with a 1/2" drill bit. as you drill with bigger bits make sure you have a very good grip on the mount (but not hard enough to break it) because as soon as the bit breaks through it will try to rip the mount out of your hands. the trick is to hold it firm enough to keep the bit from ripping it out of your hands without holding so tight that the mount snaps when the bit breaks through.
- take a dremel with a sanding drum and recenter/enlarge the hole. If your hole isn't centered, now is the time to recenter it. when you are done with the sanding drum, make sure to wiggle and try to move the slide before the plastic cools; the heat from sanding will melt the plastic together causing the slide to lock up and not be able to open.
- all that's left to do now is deburr the edges and make it look pretty. I still havent done this yet, but I'll probably just take a smaller sanding tool on the dremel or a small file and put a little radius on the edges
Related
Hey guys! I posted on my blog a full explanation of how to do this, but I thought I'd share it with XDA. I saw another post of a guy who actually tied his lanyard to the actual phone grill and that made my teeth grind. I found 2 old lanyards around my house, one from an old camera and another one that Vodafone had given me with my iPhone 4 from over 16 months ago! I don't know why they gave me a lanyard, but oh well.
As you know the Note is a big phone! I love it but sometimes I feel like I'm going to drop it while one-handing it, so I decided to make this tiny tutorial. It's REALLY easy.
All you're going to need is the following:
A TPU case. (The two I got are located here and here off of eBay). They were cheap, so this is a really inexpensive project.
A needle
Tweezers
A lanyard
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Take your TPU case and your needle and find a good location to hang the lanyard off of. Take into consideration how you'll hold it, if you like to hold it more with either your left or right hand... I'm more of a righty for just holding my phone, so I picked the bottom right corner. Also you can do the bottom right side (as seen on my white TPU case).
Proceed to stab your TPU case Don't worry, you won't hurt it. You can just take the need towards the middle or middle bottom of the case, and push through. I found it a little hard and the needle started to stick into my finger, so I just grabbed a towel and pushed it through that way, that worked fine. You could also just put a thimble on. I currently don't have one as I just moved! So towel it was.
After pushing the need through some what, you can take it out. The next step is to take your tweezers and grab the lanyard loop with the tweezers, and try and keep it as close as possible to the sharp end, if you've got a sharp end.
With the sharp end of the tweezers find the tiny hole you made with the needle and stick it through. It'll take a little force, so don't worry.
After getting it through you're going to hold onto the end of the lanyard with your finger and then let go with the tweezers and take the tweezers out. Pull the lanyard a little and you're almost done.
Put the other side of the lanyard into the loop to make a "knot" and you're done!
Attach the other end of the lanyard if you've got one, in this case I do.
And put your phone back into the case after tightening the lanyard line.
This is how it looks with the side hole, which I personally like more. But I guess it's personal preference.
And this is how it looks when I'm holding it or using it.
The TPU case is perfect for it since it's a hard rubbery silicone and doesn't rip easily. I find it really comfortable to hold now knowing that if I do drop it, or it falls there won't be an issue. I also pull it out of my jeans this way, too. I've had it like this for a week so far and there has been no additional tearing to the TPU case so I think it's a good candidate material for it.
I am not responsible if your lanyard breaks, or you end up breaking your phone. This is just something I found useful for me, and it's a lot safer for me at least.
Good luck! Take care.
Hit thanks!!!
Kent.
Very nice!
Looks like it may yank the case off if it falls while tethered?
ericshmerick said:
Looks like it may yank the case off if it falls while tethered?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not at all! The phone is tightly placed inside the case. I have to apply a lot of pressure to get it out (not enough to break it). But any case that's loose isn't a good candidate to begin with.
The white and black TPU cases I used are not letting go. I wouldn't worry about that, at all
What if you made two holes on the side (instead of using one hole and the edge of the case as the "second hole")? It wouldn't impact the edge of the case then, so maybe it would have a tighter fit?
Just a thought, maybe it wouldn't work at all I have no case yet so I can't test.
Kind of strange that there is no lanyard attachment point on the note, really -- it's a device you could be particularly prone to dropping since it is so large/slightly hard to hold!
lodschmod said:
What if you made two holes on the side (instead of using one hole and the edge of the case as the "second hole")? It wouldn't impact the edge of the case then, so maybe it would have a tighter fit?
Just a thought, maybe it wouldn't work at all I have no case yet so I can't test.
Kind of strange that there is no lanyard attachment point on the note, really -- it's a device you could be particularly prone to dropping since it is so large/slightly hard to hold!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose it could work, but it would really depend on the space you put between the holes. I ran it over the top because it's the thickest part of the case. I'll give the two side holes a try with my least favorite case and post back! haha.
That is pretty cool. The TPU case I bought has a reinforced lanyard hole on the lower right corner (as you look at the GNote from the back) I do not use a lanyard although I have several laying around. Do you place the lanyard on your wrist every time you use the GNote? When in your pocket is the lanyard hanging out to assist with getting it out of your pocket?
planoman said:
That is pretty cool. The TPU case I bought has a reinforced lanyard hole on the lower right corner (as you look at the GNote from the back) I do not use a lanyard although I have several laying around. Do you place the lanyard on your wrist every time you use the GNote? When in your pocket is the lanyard hanging out to assist with getting it out of your pocket?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Every time? No, but it is frequently as it's also really comfortable to hold that way.
And I use it EVERY time I need to get it out of my pocket. Since the one I'm using right now is a camera lanyard, it's short. So it hides under my shirt, but with an index finger I grab it and pull it out. It's so much faster.
Kinda suprised me that capdase case didnt come with the hole already. They usually put it right above or below that red strip. That could be a better place to put the holes at as it doesnt seem so obvious that it's added on. Good guide tho
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk
Or you can just loop the lanyard through the hole (on the case) for the mic and out the hole for the stylus, without having to make any extra holes in the case.
On ebay, you can get cheapo "S" design cases that have lanyard holes, saving you the trouble. They go for around US$3-5. I have one of these (in black) and the quality and fit is surprisingly good.
Easy & Quick solutions: loose battery cover and that thingy under transparent strip
Hello, lately i had problems with loose battery cover on my Xperia S, and, thinking about getting it even more loosy by leaving that be brought me to tinkering with easy and cheap solution, and i've found revertible and easy solution for both issues.
Loose battery cover:
A tiny layer of hot glue placed here (image 1) can fix your solution. Keep in mind that too thick layer can bulge the cover a little, work quickly and press on the S(E) logo firmly after cover installation to make the layer as thin as possible. Only drawback is that the glue needs to be reapplied every time you need to change your SIM card. glue can be easily removed without leaving any trace on the phone in case of warranty service request or selling the phone... to remove the cover just use a little bit more force than you are used to.
Image 1 - Personally recommended place to put the hot glue layer:
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Loose plastic thingy covering antenna under transparent strip:
Using a gutiar pick or any similar object (definately NOT screwdrivers or any other metal tools, nails - they are too solid, too, and might damage the plastic, it's better to destroy gutiar pick than look of your treasured phone, trust me)
The picture below shows how to properly remove the thin plastic covering antenna:
Just be carefull and do not use too much force, the plastic is really thin... it might be kinda tricky but you should figure it out eventually...
after successfully removing the cover, use some glue designed to make plastic to plastic connections. (NOTE: cyanoacrylate based glues are not recommended - in case you need to put the cover off again, you will most likely destroy it... I've personally used Revell contacta glue compound designed to glue plastic models - it is firm, but the glue can be easily removed with little effort and the joint is not too superior so it will break sooner than the plastic cover)
After putting few drops of glue (the less is better) just carefully put it back in - this should be easier than removing it, just be sure to fit it properly, it's kinda PITA to put it back down... Let the glue dry and enjoy
DISCLAIMER:
Despite both methods are used and tested for one month by me, I take no responsibility for results. Basics of workmanship skills required (or at least recommended, if you are not comfy with putting your phone apart even a little, then entrust with the work somebody you believe he can get the job done, or just forget about this thread
Nice tips, although I solved the loose battery cover by placing two small bits of blu-tack on top of the two screws at the bottom left and right of the back. That has solved the issue without needing to reglue or get messy every time you need access to the SIM.
Thanks for another tip, when i need to access my SIM card i'll try your method, I've considered it first but i was sceptical a bit about the potential results
loose back cover
I actually just rolled some normal tape on itself and stuck it on the spot where the glue is put (didn't have glue).. Works perfect as well
The tape i've tryed now is most likely using weaker glue than yours and it's not as firm as i would expect but it's quicker solution and undoubtly less messy, not to mention that it doesn't require quick manipulation... I've used standard office transparent tape... i've no access to my toolbox atm as i'm @ work, so i'll try stronger tape when i return home... thanks for your tip
I was in the hobby room looking for something to experiment with to construct a DIY Tablet palm grip. I ran into an older non-LED headlamp no longer used and the light bulb lit up in my head. (No pun intended :laugh
Note: This palm grip works great for lounging around, I highly doubt its safe for watching a movie while jogging..... so if the N7 falls on the ground and breaks or if you get hit by a car, please don't come back here crying to me. Common sense is the key!!
Whats needed: Headlamp (pic below)
Or any elastic will do really. Go Snag the elastic off your underwear or use your man thong if no headlamp is avail :laugh:
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Strip the elastic off frame but do not cut it off, break plastic headlamp frame if need be. All you need is the elastic strap. Take the elastic that wraps your head .........and wrap it Kitty-corner so it barely and snugly grabs the corners of tablet/case. Strap may need adjust some. (I have not tried naked tab yet) There it is, you have a palm grip for your tablet. I am sure some headlamps vary in design, so you may have to use your imagination some. Getting an elastic strap is the main goal.
You can take it a step further and also use the small elastic strap that goes over the center of you head......Slip loop through the large elastic strap before you slip it on the corners...... and you can use it as a 3 finger, 2 finger etc quick grip.... (3rd picture below). I was thinking I may find a position liked and may have the wife sew loop onto the main strap. I may also come up with some other ideas in the next few days. Ya its fugly but functional, the beauty is it goes on and off in seconds, nothing to permanently stick to your tablet or case.
If you think its stupid or have already done this....well then good, go play somewhere else. I am just posting up a quick, easy, simple little idea. Not claiming to be a genious
See what you can come up with, refine the design and post up some pics if you have a headlamp laying around to fiddle with.
Main Elastic Strap...... Seidio Dilex case if your wondering , Top notch case by the way!!
Front view with strap barely grabbing and showing in front ( attached top left & bottom right in pic) or vice versa but I placed in this position so l can hold with left hand and still touch power and volume buttons easily if need be while hand strapped in.
Optional added top Head strap but not needed really
naturecannon said:
I was in the hobby room looking for something to experiment with to construct a DIY Tablet palm grip. I ran into an older non-LED headlamp no longer used and the light bulb lit up in my head. (No pun intended :laugh
Note: This palm grip works great for lounging around, I highly doubt its safe for watching a movie while jogging..... so if the N7 falls on the ground and breaks or if you get hit by a car, please don't come back here crying to me. Common sense is the key!!
Whats needed: Headlamp (pic below)
Or any elastic will do really. Go Snag the elastic off your underwear or use your man thong if no headlamp is avail :laugh:
Strip the elastic off frame but do not cut it off, break plastic headlamp frame if need be. All you need is the elastic strap. Take the elastic that wraps your head .........and wrap it Kitty-corner so it barely and snugly grabs the corners of tablet/case. Strap may need adjust some. (I have not tried naked tab yet) There it is, you have a palm grip for your tablet. I am sure some headlamps vary in design, so you may have to use your imagination some. Getting an elastic strap is the main goal.
You can take it a step further and also use the small elastic strap that goes over the center of you head......Slip loop through the large elastic strap before you slip it on the corners...... and you can use it as a 3 finger, 2 finger etc quick grip.... (3rd picture below). I was thinking I may find a position liked and may have the wife sew loop onto the main strap. I may also come up with some other ideas in the next few days. Ya its fugly but functional, the beauty is it goes on and off in seconds, nothing to permanently stick to your tablet or case.
If you think its stupid or have already done this....well then good, go play somewhere else. I am just posting up a quick, easy, simple little idea. Not claiming to be a genious
See what you can come up with, refine the design and post up some pics if you have a headlamp laying around to fiddle with.
Main Elastic Strap...... Seidio Dilex case if your wondering , Top notch case by the way!!
Front view with strap barely grabbing and showing in front ( attached top left & bottom right in pic) or vice versa but I placed in this position so l can hold with left hand and still touch power and volume buttons easily if need be while hand strapped in.
Optional added top Head strap but not needed really
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol i have that exact Headlamp. But that is for fishing in the dark
Ha! Brilliant. I have a couple head lamps laying around.. This would be handy for laying in bed reading after my arm goes numb from laying uncomfortably to flick the pages!
Hi everybody,
Since a moment I wanted to have an easy way to mount my smartphone (a huge Galaxy Note 2) on a gamepad for playing comfortably some games (mainly emulators), or even, transform it in a nvidia shield look a like, with the help of the awesome Limelight app.
I didn't want to buy a bluetooth controller with a built-in mount because I'm afraid that their size would be to small for my big hands, and I already have some controllers at home.
I didn't want to buy a unique holder (like GameKlip) that fits only one type of gamepad and one type of smartphone.
So final I did one myself, for quite cheap.
I like it so much that I wanted to share how I did it with you guys, so if one day somebody here wants to do something similar, it can serve as a base, or give him some ideas.
What you need :
a small universal smartphone holder (I've used this one)
at least one plastic buckle (I've gathered some from a broken backpack, or you can buy some)
some rubber band
a small right-angle plastic thing (see photos bellow)
a drill
a cutter knife
hot glue and it's pistol (or something with the same usage)
recommended : sand-paper
1) The supportRemove the remaining straps from the buckle if there are any.
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For the "right-angle plastic thing", I took a remaining accessory of one of my Swedish furniture :
Cut it with the cutter knife in order to the part to fit on the angle on the top of your controller (near where the wire is if it's a wired one).
Don't forget to cut a U shape for the controller's wire.
Drill four holes, two on the top of the piece, and two on the bottom, at each side of the hole for the wire.
Pass the rubber band through the holes and make a knot to have two loops, one a each side of the support.
Finally, glue the female part of the buckle on the back of the support, the opening pointing upward.
I've sanded a bit the plastic piece and the buckle where I planned to glue them, to be sure that the glue will work well.
2) The holderThis part is easy, simply glue the male part of the buckle on the holder, the "spiky" part pointing downward.
Again, I sanded the two pieces a bit.
When mounting the stuff on my XBox360 controller, it gives me this :
3) Perma-mount and size adaptationBecause my phone is a bit heavy, or the rubber band to elastic, the holder doesn't stay totally fixed when the phone is in place. I will probably need to double the rubber bands or something like this.
But anyway, since I didn't managed to get the XBox360 controller to work at 100% with the phone, I decided to use one of my Ouya controllers. It's bluetooth, and works already quite well. It has also a nice flat surface between the triggers on the back.
Instead of using the rubber-band based mount, I decided to directly glue a male plastic buckle on the back (I had four same buckles).
It gave me a perfectly stable removable holder !
The phone mount I've used was intended to hold phones in portrait orientation, and I couldn't fix my phone in landscape.
I've found a small rubber bouncing ball and worked it a bit with the cutter knife to fill the gab between the holder and the phone (Anything similar, like a school eraser, should do the job). Since it's rubber, it fits and grips the phone very nicely.
The best of all, I don't need to remove the protecting case to use it !
I hope that you enjoyed reading all this, and that my little tests gave you some ideas if you also want to make a cheap phone holder.
Leave a comment if you have any questions or remarks !
Best regards,
ReMix
nice idea.. :good:
Here we have a simple MOD to replace the thermal paste on my Shield TV.
I have not tested to see how bad or if this X1 chip throttles under a good load but I figured it couldn't hurt to replace the TIM with something better than stock. So here we Gooooooo!
Disclaimer: I hold no responsibility if you attempt this and break your device. You my friend bear all the risks.
Here we have the Guts! The Bottom was surprisingly easy to remove with only some clips holding it in place. So pry lightly from the corner and edges and be careful not to pry to hard or insert anything like a spludger as you may break tabs or crack the plastic so be easy and work your way around by hand if at all possible.
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The device does not look as glamorous on the inside as the nvidia renders suggested when it was advertised. lol
It does however show a very small, powerful device, with a lot of added weight to assist in its premium feel and or using the available vertical stand you can purchase from nVidia.
Here is the connection board. I won't have to take all this stuff out at the moment but If there is a bigger demand for it I will later as I can't find many teardowns of the shield anywhere, I had found one but it was not very detailed on the method.
Here is a small piece of tape holding the very small wires away from the heat pipe. Make sure these are clear from the pipe during and after removal as you don't want to pull on them or expose them to direct contact with the heat pipe after it's reinstall.
We start by removing the two small screws holding the fan and heat sink into place.
Sometimes the small anker will come out with the screw but it can be reseated with a little pressure.
Next, begin by removing the three spring reinforced screws applying pressure to the main X1 chip.
Now we get to see and clean the gunk they slathered on at the factory! YAY!
Use some high grade alcohol at least 70% and begin cleaning with some cotton swabs and q-tips.
Ugh!! Clean it..... Clean it real good!
Oooha Shiny!
Clean the X1 chip off carefully and try not to let the gunk flop around and get pushed into the small crevices in the top of the metal CPU lid. We don't want to insulate the heat in the chip. The best method is to soak a cotton ball in alcohol but not too much and go in for one big swipe to get the bulk of the TIM off. Then go back in with a small q-tip to get the remaining film or small pieces of leftover TIM
Now simply use your TIM of choice. I chose Gelid Extreme with a thermal conductivity of 8.5w/m-k as it had exceptional results when I did a similar cooling mod to my Nexus 6P. Apply a small rice grain sized amount to the top of the X1 chip right in the middle. Mine usually end up looking like a small grey Hershey's Kiss. Do not spread it with a card or spreader. This creates air pockets under pressure and insulates the chip from the heat pipe and will cause temperatures to go up.
Now reseat the fan in the exhaust slot first.
Then begin laying heat pipe and copper plate back onto the CPU slowly, and in a straight downward fashion. If the plate makes contact with the TIM and you have to back it out for any reason, you will need to remove and clean the TIM before reapplying because now air pockets will develope.
Screw the 3 screws on the heat pipe back in tightly
Screw the fan back in securely
Clean up and snap the bottom back on and wipe her down and boom your good to go!
To break the paste in a little make sure you heat her up good and play a graphically intense game. Just anything to get the Cuda cores churning a little. Then let her fully cool off at some point by pulling the power cable and letting it sit a little to fully cool in an off state instead of simply just sleeping. This simple full heat cycle ensures the TIM adjusts and sets correctly.
Enjoy!!!:highfive:
I really see no need to do this, but thx anyway
BTW, nice vaping unit
scaramonga said:
I really see no need to do this, but thx anyway
BTW, nice vaping unit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree this is not a mod everyone needs to do because of shields dropping dead from heat damage or anything because they don't. But I did it to mine so I figured having some pics available and such would be at least worth posting and having available. Oh and thanks it is a Mini Volt. It is a tiny little thing! Good for carrying when your just headed to the corner store and back.
What I have found to make quite a difference is to put some thermal pads over the heatsink so that it is thermally connected to the aluminum baseplate.
Do I need ink to do this properly?
Pp.
sent from my stone/stock S6e using microwave technology.