Develop Bugs

Samsung Epix Screen Alignment

I did a hard reset, and am stuck at the screen alignment. I installed Remote Screen Alignment, but it appears not to have a setting for the Epix. Also, when I run it, I get an error trying to configure the remote device.
I am wondering if I need to create a .dat file for the Epix. Does anyone know the Epix calibration settings, or some other work around for beign stuck on this screen?
Thanks!

Sorry you didn't get any response faster.
I had the same problem.
I too asked for the dat and others presets.
Guess what if those didn't work the problem is the touch screen digitizer. No way around it, you have to replace it.
It is cheap on ebay $15-19 shipped. I just finished putting it on.
Caution on taking the phone apart. It's not that easy to do so.

Do you have any tips for taking the phone apart?
My digitizer is crazy and I can't get the screen to allign. I'm ready to replace it, but a little weary about taking the phone apart so far.

andy7079 said:
Do you have any tips for taking the phone apart?
My digitizer is crazy and I can't get the screen to allign. I'm ready to replace it, but a little weary about taking the phone apart so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is no resource whatsoever on how to take the phone apart.
I just did it cold turkey. You just can't be afraid.
I took apart an i607 Blackjack before using instructional videos. I think this was a bit easier. Similar and easier.
I did not even refer to those videos again, I just went at it like no ones business. If your scared then you will probably mess up.
You obviously remove the battery tray, battery and sim card
Remove the stylus
Remove the rubber cover nub on the upper left side.
Unscrew all the visible screws. IIRC there are 3 on each side. This is probably one of the tough parts, because each screw looks to have been applied with some loctite material. You really need a proper screw driver. Philips head, but really small. You will see it. If you start stripping the screw, or strip it. START TO GET WORRIED. Because I don't know how you will get it out then. So after you removed all the screws. Do not expect the phone to come off easily.. IT WONT, its like it is still together.
You will need to use some FORCE to pry a small portion of the phone open, and when I say small I mean small because they are clipped together tight.
If you bought the digitizer from EBAY it comes with this
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That included screw driver is a torx head which is no use to you. But that yello tool is what you need to use to pry the case apart without scratching the case.
So again once you pry a small portion.. I STARTED FROM THE BOTTOM, insert that yellow tool in the opening and run it along the case and it will start to pry open the case apart.
After that, you shall see the board.. this is where my memory gets vague.
I don't think there was any other screws to be removed to remove the board, but there might have been 1.
Anyways on the left side you will see a small ribbon cable that runs through the front of the phone, that is the cable that attches to the digitizer. Unclip it and remove it. Then carefully pry the board until you see the front screen digitizer.
Now you will need to decide how you are going to remove this because it is glued on. Be careful as you will need to use force. The OEM case though IS VERY STRONG. I was flexing that b!tch and it did not crack or snap. Good quality for sure Samsung.
Once you have it removed, you will need to have new adhesive, or be ghetto and just peel apart the one from the old digitizer and reposition it for the new one.
Put the new one, attach the ribbon cable and put phone back together.
Wish I could've taken pictures while I did it, but no one ever seems to speak up about calibration problems I thought I was the only one, and I was eager to install it.

I finally got around to fixing the digitizer. Removing the screws went suprisingly well. There was another screw on the PC board that I removed. I reused the adhesive, but I had to trim some parts of it to get it flat. Overall it went pretty well.

Thank you thank you! I just replaced my i907's digitizer and thanks to your thread, it was smooth sail.
If you didn't write it here, I would certainly feared removing the digitizer with such a force, I'd fear that I'm gonna break the frame. Fortunately, Samsung made it so soft it bends almost any angle without breaking.
It helped to put the frame on the table with a digitizer down, push onto the transparent area of digitizer with fingers (starting in some corner), and slowly pull the frame upwards, away from digitizer.
I recommend this seller: http://myworld.ebay.com/e2_express/ - it was a cheapest i907 digitizer on eBay, with free international shipping for $11, and he included all tools I needed for repair. My Epix now works perfectly (well, apart from ROM, but that's a completely different story, f**k you very much, AT&T .

Replace sceen May 2010
This is actually easier and scarier than it sounds.
Six screws: four at the corners of the battery compartment, one under the rubber plug upper left, and one under the stylus. (When putting back together-be careful with the stylus screw. The stylus goes inside and so will the screw. Time to take it apart, again.)
I could not re-use the adhesive. When I was taking off the old screen, the adhesive curled up longitudinally, tried to straighten, then it balled up. My wife scrapbooks so I used her photo adhesive strips. Not as strong, probably not long term, but I needed to put the phone back together.
Putting the ribbon connector back takes patience. Be sure the "clamp" is open before you start.
If the volume rocker comes off, dammit, there is a tiny hole that fits over a tiny peg, then slide the other end into the tiny slot.
I'm impressed with the inside of my Epix. Pretty amazing how much, and how they cram it in there.

Case + Cradle? Impossible? NOT ANYMORE!

So, you have a shiny new Galaxy S3 and you know that you're prone to dropping it into caves, diving into oceans with it in your pocket, or running it over with your tank, so like any smart individual you opted to buy yourself a super protective case like Otterbox Defender or similar. Problem is now you've just taken out the possibility of placing it in a charging cradle, or some sort of desktop holding device, right? Not Anymore!
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With a few simple and cheap items, you can make yourself one that doesn't look like a 7 year old kid put it together during arts and crafts!
Here's a list of what you'll need, starting from most expensive to possibly free if your boss isn't looking
Logitech MX Revolution Mouse - you only need the charging cradle, but it'll be tough finding just the cradle without this fantastic Wiltron recommended mouse - eBay average pricing at time of posting was about $15-30 dollars for the mouse and cradle. We're going to be removing the guts of the cradle so the mouse wont be able to be charged any more after this.
USB Cable - The same one that came with your phone or an aftermarket one. Should have a good plastic head on it for stability, but the stock cable is fine too (that's what I'm using).
Tools - Drill, Screwdriver (+), Knife, Hot Glue or epoxy if you're fancy
(Optional) Expanding non-flammable foaming insulation - this is only for stability and additional weight, and is purely optional. I used it in one of the two cradles I made.
Once we've pilfered the office supply cabinet, it's time to get to work. Start by turning it over and peeling off the warning label and rubber feet. Save the little feet thingies as you'll need them later. There should be one or more screws to remove. My home cradle had 4 in a box shape, but the one I have at work only had one screw in the center. Once removed, hollow out the guts and kick them in a stylish fashion as you'll no longer need them. Seen in red below, push out that separator plate as that's what you'll be working with for drilling and gluing. Ignore the green part for now, that comes later.
You'll want to either stick the metal portion of the USB cable through a small drilled hole (or cut hole with the knife, depending on how badass you are), or if your case is substantially large, put a portion of the plastic housing around the USB head through a larger drilled (or cut) hole.
Once you've tested the seating of your phone with the position of the cable so that it will charge when seated, glue it in place in the red plate, and re-seat it into the cradle. Glue that plate in if it's loose. When the glue is dried, if you've opted to use the expanding foam, get foaming. Cut/file away excess foam, and then re-seal the bottom plate after 24 hours (so the foam is set and has stopped expanding).
Now, remember that green line in the image above? You can leave that as is, or file it down. I left it as is and it causes no ill effects. A little balancing game is required if I want to "dock" it in portrait mode, but landscape mode is fine (abet unable to charge in this fashion).
It does work though

Higher resolution photos:
http://i.imgur.com/zhrPgOo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vpAxPxt.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ooaI9w3.jpg

[Review] Oneplus Original Flip Cover

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Oneplus ONE Original Flip Cover
First Class Bicast Leather and Smooth Velvet
The exterior consists of a shock absorbent plastic layered with resistant Bicast leather, while the interior is made of soft velvet for the backside of the One to have a comfortable place to rest on. The front side will flip up effortlessly, and will fall back carefully on your One with a discrete “tap”. The attention to detail is once again manifested through the OnePlus logo carved on the bottom-right side of the front.
Automatic Unlock and Other Features
Your One will automatically unlock* as soon as you flip open the front side, for a smoother and better user experience. The volume button will be reached as easily through the flip cover as without. The same goes for the lock button. As the backside has an opening for the camera and the flash, and the front side will leave the loudspeakers unblocked, you can take beautiful images and talk to your friends while not worrying about your One.
*Requires CyanogenMod 11 version XNPH22R or higher
Additional Information
Dimensions 176.3 × 88 × 22 mm
Weight 157g
The OnePlus flip cover is specifically designed for the One, so you can rest assured that your One will be perfectly shielded against everything that a phone can be subjected to – at least almost.
Source Oneplus.net​
I am quite satisfied with this flip cover. Very good workmanship, fit perfectly into the OPO and very stylish
It is available in various colors to suit every taste​
​

Nice review!
One question: does this flip cover affect two hand use in any way?

LucaFraga said:
Nice review!
One question: does this flip cover affect two hand use in any way?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No

I found the flip cover very uncomfortable to use, especially the corners. Shouldve used softer material.
Returned it.

Miz_Buzzer said:
I found the flip cover very uncomfortable to use, especially the corners. Shouldve used softer material.
Returned it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think if they used softer materials would degrade faster...

I really like the flip case for my OPO and it's the case I use every day.
My only complaint is that the magnet seems to be too strong and will sometimes turn off the screen when the cases is fully opened. I tried lining the inside of the back of the case with duct tape to add a tiny bit of a gap between the phone and the case and it seemed to help a little bit but it still happens.

scott47 said:
I really like the flip case for my OPO and it's the case I use every day.
My only complaint is that the magnet seems to be too strong and will sometimes turn off the screen when the cases is fully opened. I tried lining the inside of the back of the case with duct tape to add a tiny bit of a gap between the phone and the case and it seemed to help a little bit but it still happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It never happened to me
The screen only turn of when I fully close the case

[MOD][THERMAL][GUTS] nVidia Shield TV 16GB Thermal Paste Replacement

Here we have a simple MOD to replace the thermal paste on my Shield TV.
I have not tested to see how bad or if this X1 chip throttles under a good load but I figured it couldn't hurt to replace the TIM with something better than stock. So here we Gooooooo!
Disclaimer: I hold no responsibility if you attempt this and break your device. You my friend bear all the risks.
Here we have the Guts! The Bottom was surprisingly easy to remove with only some clips holding it in place. So pry lightly from the corner and edges and be careful not to pry to hard or insert anything like a spludger as you may break tabs or crack the plastic so be easy and work your way around by hand if at all possible.
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The device does not look as glamorous on the inside as the nvidia renders suggested when it was advertised. lol
It does however show a very small, powerful device, with a lot of added weight to assist in its premium feel and or using the available vertical stand you can purchase from nVidia.
Here is the connection board. I won't have to take all this stuff out at the moment but If there is a bigger demand for it I will later as I can't find many teardowns of the shield anywhere, I had found one but it was not very detailed on the method.
Here is a small piece of tape holding the very small wires away from the heat pipe. Make sure these are clear from the pipe during and after removal as you don't want to pull on them or expose them to direct contact with the heat pipe after it's reinstall.
We start by removing the two small screws holding the fan and heat sink into place.
Sometimes the small anker will come out with the screw but it can be reseated with a little pressure.
Next, begin by removing the three spring reinforced screws applying pressure to the main X1 chip.
Now we get to see and clean the gunk they slathered on at the factory! YAY!
Use some high grade alcohol at least 70% and begin cleaning with some cotton swabs and q-tips.
Ugh!! Clean it..... Clean it real good!
Oooha Shiny!
Clean the X1 chip off carefully and try not to let the gunk flop around and get pushed into the small crevices in the top of the metal CPU lid. We don't want to insulate the heat in the chip. The best method is to soak a cotton ball in alcohol but not too much and go in for one big swipe to get the bulk of the TIM off. Then go back in with a small q-tip to get the remaining film or small pieces of leftover TIM
Now simply use your TIM of choice. I chose Gelid Extreme with a thermal conductivity of 8.5w/m-k as it had exceptional results when I did a similar cooling mod to my Nexus 6P. Apply a small rice grain sized amount to the top of the X1 chip right in the middle. Mine usually end up looking like a small grey Hershey's Kiss. Do not spread it with a card or spreader. This creates air pockets under pressure and insulates the chip from the heat pipe and will cause temperatures to go up.
Now reseat the fan in the exhaust slot first.
Then begin laying heat pipe and copper plate back onto the CPU slowly, and in a straight downward fashion. If the plate makes contact with the TIM and you have to back it out for any reason, you will need to remove and clean the TIM before reapplying because now air pockets will develope.
Screw the 3 screws on the heat pipe back in tightly
Screw the fan back in securely
Clean up and snap the bottom back on and wipe her down and boom your good to go!
To break the paste in a little make sure you heat her up good and play a graphically intense game. Just anything to get the Cuda cores churning a little. Then let her fully cool off at some point by pulling the power cable and letting it sit a little to fully cool in an off state instead of simply just sleeping. This simple full heat cycle ensures the TIM adjusts and sets correctly.
Enjoy!!!:highfive:

I really see no need to do this, but thx anyway
BTW, nice vaping unit

scaramonga said:
I really see no need to do this, but thx anyway
BTW, nice vaping unit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree this is not a mod everyone needs to do because of shields dropping dead from heat damage or anything because they don't. But I did it to mine so I figured having some pics available and such would be at least worth posting and having available. Oh and thanks it is a Mini Volt. It is a tiny little thing! Good for carrying when your just headed to the corner store and back.

What I have found to make quite a difference is to put some thermal pads over the heatsink so that it is thermally connected to the aluminum baseplate.

Do I need ink to do this properly?
Pp.
sent from my stone/stock S6e using microwave technology.

Battery case disassembly (EB-TN930)

Out of curiosity, boredom, and a couple touches of stupidity, I picked up one of the official Samsung battery cases for the original Note 7 to mess around with. I knew going in that it wasn't fully compatible with the FE, but I figured for $7 I might as well take a look and see if there was anything I could do to make it work.
Unfortunately, due in combination to me lacking the proper tools and Samsung's undying love for using strong adhesive to seal together 92% of all products they make, I (probably) took a couple SMDs off the logic board while disassembling the thing. At least, that's my best guess, as it now isn't recognized by my FE at all and just blinks all 4 power indicator LEDs at me. But I figured I'd at least post some pics of the disassembly for you fine folk in case someone smarter (or dumber, who knows) can figure this thing out.
If you decide to go down the disassembly route, just remember that there is a battery inside. One of the same type that made the FE's predecessor go explodey. One that'll make your day substantially worse if you manage to puncture it. Just remember that before you take your screwdriver and go Edward Stabbyhands on everything.
Not sure if this is the right section to be posting in; my apologies if it's not.
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Step 1) - Remove cover with FCC markings (hereon referred to as "FCC cover")
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This cover is held on solely by adhesive.
Grab something very small and sharp; in my case I used a small jeweler's screwdriver and a folding utility knife. Take the screwdriver and wedge it between the FCC cover and the outer plastic case. There's a hard plastic cover underneath the FCC cover, so don't be afraid of damaging anything underneath.
Using the screwdriver as a lever, pry the FCC cover up just enough to get the knife inside; from there, just cut through the adhesive holding the FCC cover to the hard plastic cover underneath. There's significantly more adhesive at the top of the case (near the camera cutout), so I'd recommend starting this procedure from the bottom of the case.
Step 2) - Undo screws
Unscrew the 9 screws seen below. Pretty self-explanatory.
Step 3) - Remove hard plastic cover underneath FCC cover
This cover is held on by a combination of adhesive (around the edges only) and plastic clips.
After unscrewing the screws, repeat step 1) for the hard plastic cover underneath the FCC cover. Since this cover is much more rigid than the FCC cover, you'll need to apply more strength than in step 1). What helped for me was basically chipping away at one edge of the cover until I made a gap large enough to insert my screwdriver into; from there I just pried the cover up enough to get one of my fingers under, after which I just ran my finger around to undo the clips.
Note that the guts of the case reside under this cover, so *be careful. Take a look at the pics at the bottom of this post for the layout of things inside before you start this step.*
I started prying up from the top right of the case; now that I know what's going on underneath I would've started anywhere along the bottom half of the case.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The three main pieces, all together:
Just the guts:
Closeup of PCB:
That's it, go knock yourselves out. I'm a bit knackered right now so lemme know if something above is unclear or if you want me to try doing something else before throwing it away.

as this hasn't been changed since the note 7, any defuncting must be software related, not battery related. Interesting tho.