Samsung Epix Screen Alignment - Upgrading, Modifying and Unlocking

I did a hard reset, and am stuck at the screen alignment. I installed Remote Screen Alignment, but it appears not to have a setting for the Epix. Also, when I run it, I get an error trying to configure the remote device.
I am wondering if I need to create a .dat file for the Epix. Does anyone know the Epix calibration settings, or some other work around for beign stuck on this screen?
Thanks!

Sorry you didn't get any response faster.
I had the same problem.
I too asked for the dat and others presets.
Guess what if those didn't work the problem is the touch screen digitizer. No way around it, you have to replace it.
It is cheap on ebay $15-19 shipped. I just finished putting it on.
Caution on taking the phone apart. It's not that easy to do so.

Do you have any tips for taking the phone apart?
My digitizer is crazy and I can't get the screen to allign. I'm ready to replace it, but a little weary about taking the phone apart so far.

andy7079 said:
Do you have any tips for taking the phone apart?
My digitizer is crazy and I can't get the screen to allign. I'm ready to replace it, but a little weary about taking the phone apart so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is no resource whatsoever on how to take the phone apart.
I just did it cold turkey. You just can't be afraid.
I took apart an i607 Blackjack before using instructional videos. I think this was a bit easier. Similar and easier.
I did not even refer to those videos again, I just went at it like no ones business. If your scared then you will probably mess up.
You obviously remove the battery tray, battery and sim card
Remove the stylus
Remove the rubber cover nub on the upper left side.
Unscrew all the visible screws. IIRC there are 3 on each side. This is probably one of the tough parts, because each screw looks to have been applied with some loctite material. You really need a proper screw driver. Philips head, but really small. You will see it. If you start stripping the screw, or strip it. START TO GET WORRIED. Because I don't know how you will get it out then. So after you removed all the screws. Do not expect the phone to come off easily.. IT WONT, its like it is still together.
You will need to use some FORCE to pry a small portion of the phone open, and when I say small I mean small because they are clipped together tight.
If you bought the digitizer from EBAY it comes with this
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That included screw driver is a torx head which is no use to you. But that yello tool is what you need to use to pry the case apart without scratching the case.
So again once you pry a small portion.. I STARTED FROM THE BOTTOM, insert that yellow tool in the opening and run it along the case and it will start to pry open the case apart.
After that, you shall see the board.. this is where my memory gets vague.
I don't think there was any other screws to be removed to remove the board, but there might have been 1.
Anyways on the left side you will see a small ribbon cable that runs through the front of the phone, that is the cable that attches to the digitizer. Unclip it and remove it. Then carefully pry the board until you see the front screen digitizer.
Now you will need to decide how you are going to remove this because it is glued on. Be careful as you will need to use force. The OEM case though IS VERY STRONG. I was flexing that b!tch and it did not crack or snap. Good quality for sure Samsung.
Once you have it removed, you will need to have new adhesive, or be ghetto and just peel apart the one from the old digitizer and reposition it for the new one.
Put the new one, attach the ribbon cable and put phone back together.
Wish I could've taken pictures while I did it, but no one ever seems to speak up about calibration problems I thought I was the only one, and I was eager to install it.

I finally got around to fixing the digitizer. Removing the screws went suprisingly well. There was another screw on the PC board that I removed. I reused the adhesive, but I had to trim some parts of it to get it flat. Overall it went pretty well.

Thank you thank you! I just replaced my i907's digitizer and thanks to your thread, it was smooth sail.
If you didn't write it here, I would certainly feared removing the digitizer with such a force, I'd fear that I'm gonna break the frame. Fortunately, Samsung made it so soft it bends almost any angle without breaking.
It helped to put the frame on the table with a digitizer down, push onto the transparent area of digitizer with fingers (starting in some corner), and slowly pull the frame upwards, away from digitizer.
I recommend this seller: http://myworld.ebay.com/e2_express/ - it was a cheapest i907 digitizer on eBay, with free international shipping for $11, and he included all tools I needed for repair. My Epix now works perfectly (well, apart from ROM, but that's a completely different story, f**k you very much, AT&T .

Replace sceen May 2010
This is actually easier and scarier than it sounds.
Six screws: four at the corners of the battery compartment, one under the rubber plug upper left, and one under the stylus. (When putting back together-be careful with the stylus screw. The stylus goes inside and so will the screw. Time to take it apart, again.)
I could not re-use the adhesive. When I was taking off the old screen, the adhesive curled up longitudinally, tried to straighten, then it balled up. My wife scrapbooks so I used her photo adhesive strips. Not as strong, probably not long term, but I needed to put the phone back together.
Putting the ribbon connector back takes patience. Be sure the "clamp" is open before you start.
If the volume rocker comes off, dammit, there is a tiny hole that fits over a tiny peg, then slide the other end into the tiny slot.
I'm impressed with the inside of my Epix. Pretty amazing how much, and how they cram it in there.

Related

my guide to take apart the excalibur (42 pics)

*****WARNING*****
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY DO TO YOUR EXCALIBUR
PLEASE USE PRECAUTION AGAINST STATIC CHARGE
*****WARNING*****
ok after more than an hour of taking pictures and editing im finally ready to upload them and be done with this. geeze you cooks must have some patience! my hats off to ya...so here we go...hope this helps atleast one person out there to make it worth my time.
ok to start we are going to need a t6 screwdriver, a prying tool a percision phillips screwdriver. (I ADVISE YOU USE A ANTI-STATIC WRISTBAND TOO)
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so flip your dash over, remove the battery cover, take the battery out, and set off to the side. locate the rubber pieces from the picture below and remove them with your prying tool.
this next part is VERY important. note the void sticker over the top of the right screw. by opening your case you void any warrenty that may be active. just use you t6 to remove both of the screw (note they are silver)
now we only have four more screws to remove to get the back panel off, they are circled in red below, use your t6 again here. these screws are black
with all the screws out of the back panel you now need to take your prying tool and put in between the back panel and the chrome piece on the dash, if this is your first time it will be tight. dont be afraid to use a little force. (on the real tight spots is where it latches, that where you need to pry)
now comes the part i found a little different between my two dash's. the one made in china is the one i used in this guide (i have included a picture of the other one to show the differences). go ahead and remove the back panel. on my china dash the wire to the battery thing was NOT connected to the back panel and on my other dash it WAS connected to the back panel.
i didnt circle it but in the second picture you can see a wire going to the back panel and in the first picture you dont see that. in the next step you can see it nice and snug under the connector.
now locate the connection from the picture below and lift it out of the socket. easy to do just use your nail on the end and lift up.
the circled red connector below holds that cabel on, just use your nails and lift straight up on this and set it off to the side. i sat it in the spot on the back panel that it was on with my other dash
with thoes done we move on to the next spot, with again is circled in red below. use your prying tool, as pictured, to open the latch up.
here i used my nails and removed the "cable" by using the two tiny tabs on the side
the next thing we need to disconnect is below. again use your prying tool to open the latch like you did before.
once you have it open use remove the "cable" by using the circled tab
now the we almost have the mobo off. soo use the t6 to remove the screw, this is also a silver screw but, as noted, their is a difference in size.
the last thing holding the mobo on is two clips, and guess what? their pictured below...
\
i just used my nail to hold one back a little and lifted the mobo out and set it aside. ( the picture shows the "front" of it)
the antenna just lifts off, but you dont need to remove it
and this is what you should see now
were now ready to remove that chrome piece, note that the two circled "cables" go THROUGH the chrome piece.
i used the prying tool to remove the chrome piece, it came off really easy. hopefully it does the same for you
and heres a picture showing the "cables" that go through the chrome piece
set the chrome piece off to the side, and were almost done here
now its time to remove that lcd, which is so easly broken for most people. see the circled peice on the back? that grounds it out, just peel it off. and remove the lcd. i just put my hand over it and flipped the phone over. it came right out and i set it off to the side
now we can see the finish line
their are 3 screws to remove to get the keyboard pcb board off. use a percision phillips screwdriver (the one pictured in my first post is just a small phillips, it worked just fine)
set it off to the side and the keypads will just fall out if you turn the phone over
and thats it. i did not include how to remove the jogger bar, i have not done soo, no need to. if you do please take pictures to add to the guide.
please let me know what you think. i have included all the pictures in a zip file, they are a little better quality.
Thanks xDD
Now, when I find the new housing I want, I can finally do it.
phuKKah said:
Thanks xDD
Now, when I find the new housing I want, I can finally do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what kind of housing are you looking for? just the tmobile housing or htc housing?
Good post!! Just hope I never have to reference it
Very helpful post
Can you do it in reverse too please JK
stylez said:
Very helpful post
Can you do it in reverse too please JK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its simple all you need is a hammer....lol
i figured someone would say it. hehe
skaroger867 said:
what kind of housing are you looking for? just the tmobile housing or htc housing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm actually looking for a translucent housing, kinda like what I used to do to my original Xbox.
phuKKah said:
I'm actually looking for a translucent housing, kinda like what I used to do to my original Xbox.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats right, i remember a thread on that a little while ago. if you ever find it let me know, id love to have that too. maybe a translucent black or blue one.
i just wanna remove the damn t mobile logo but dont know how to do so without scatching the case. as you can see in the first post, where i scratched it removing the logo lol
WOOOW, awesome man, this is 1 a hell of job
this should be stickied.
Great job , I'm sure this will be very handy for some people that will need to fix their phone's screen or anything else for that matter. Great post.
Please sticky
Amazing job you done here!
Hope can be sticky soon
Cheers,
thanks soo much
really thanks for a guide like this
wow thanks
now i can clean my phone
ssj3g0ku said:
wow thanks
now i can clean my phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yea i found all kinds of dust around the edges of mine, but then again i do work in a factory
Thank you !
Thanks a million for this.
Just completed replacement of LCD on two S620's I had given up for dead.
Now to look for the latest ROMs to play with ...
Sticky. 99.999% chance ill need this in the future.
thanx for the wisdom!!
peace!

Bad back cover quality?

I just notice of mine and two of me friends' TP2 ,
the back cover is designed so badly....
it is easily snapped off, even when i just tried to push the power button, me hand pushed the back cover in a way it would open
the snap part of the phone, that is, in the middle of each side, when the back cover snapped, it blows the size in such a way i was afraid it will break, and leave an empty spot. not so sure if this is a defect coz it also there on 2 of me friends'
so, is this a design flaw? or we were just getting bad units?
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look carefully at the dented back cover and a small gap between backcover and the unit
Hi!
i have the same problem!
my back cover "automatically" open when i do a little pressure on it, and when i close it the upper border-plastic is not at the level of the phone....mmmm
BAD HTC!!!
i wondered if it was only my problem...but probably not!
sorry for bad english, tryed to explain at my best
Hmm very strange. Mine is actually very tight, i had to apply quite a lot of force to make it go off the phone. The photo looks to me as if some of the internal holding clamps are not shifted into place when you closed the phone.
Kork said:
Hmm very strange. Mine is actually very tight, i had to apply quite a lot of force to make it go off the phone. The photo looks to me as if some of the internal holding clamps are not shifted into place when you closed the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i second that, it should be holding firm but so far i saw other 2 with exactly same problem, now 3
i had exactly the same problem...
the cover went off really easy anche the 2 sides were not in place..
the problem is in the small tooth in the lower side of the rear cover, near the usb port...
it's too tight and prevent the cover from sittin in place..
i just cut away an half millimeter from that small pieceand now the cover is in place firmly
airon11 said:
i had exactly the same problem...
the cover went off really easy anche the 2 sides were not in place..
the problem is in the small tooth in the lower side of the rear cover, near the usb port...
it's too tight and prevent the cover from sittin in place..
i just cut away an half millimeter from that small pieceand now the cover is in place firmly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
u cut it off? oh man, am i really that brave enough for this expensive phone?
how do you know its because of that small tooth anyway? is it because when you press the bottom part of the back cover it makes a squakey sound?
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5418/cimg0603mod.jpg
here is a pic of the plastic tooth i modified..
gunggu said:
u cut it off? oh man, am i really that brave enough for this expensive phone?
how do you know its because of that small tooth anyway? is it because when you press the bottom part of the back cover it makes a squakey sound?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i didn't cut off all the tooth...just a slice...to make is thinner...
i tought about that for a week and finally trying and retrying i took the cutter and did it...
i noticed that if i put in place the rear cover not sliding it, but pushing it in place from the corners, it fited right, but the bottom part could not snap in place because of that piece of plastic...
slicing it down really carefully did allowed the back cover to snap in place
the sides of the cover now are almost in place....the bump is still there but is really not noticeable now...
airon11 said:
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5418/cimg0603mod.jpg
here is a pic of the plastic tooth i modified..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks a lot for the share!!! once i gain my strength and bravery, i will also cut it myself. the photo will really help a lot!
Mine snap very tight.... actually very worried everytime when i want to open the back cover cos I have to use force to open it. Very worried I will break it, cos it is an expensive phone :>
gunggu said:
thanks a lot for the share!!! once i gain my strength and bravery, i will also cut it myself. the photo will really help a lot!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i gained the bravery lookin at htc online shop....30 euro for a spare back cover.....i decided to try...the worst thing it coul happen is that the cover is loose and i need a spare one....not a big amount of money...
Same problem with my phone.. (Poland) but I am not so brave to cut something that I bought for over 500 euros. I gave it back and waiting for the HTC replay.
Does anybody know if they are concerning it as a product failure and replacing it?
I guess as always it depends 2/3 on your negotiation skills if the manufacturer will consider whatever issue you have as a product failure. So if all you did was opening the cover for inserting a battery and sim and then closing it and it's not closing very well, you shouldn't have any trouble getting a replacement.
I don't have this problem, Mine is very tight....
Likewise, mine is nice cool too.
fadimck said:
I don't have this problem, Mine is very tight....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My cover was very tight (almost too tight...was kinda hard to get off) for the first month, but since yesterday it hasn't been fitting properly.
Kinda hard to tell what is wrong, but might have a look at the 'skimming' suggestion in the thread, although taking a knife to my phone...
Mine is tight too... I was suprised to read in the manual that you have to take the stylus out to remove the cover. No matter i was having issues at first.
Maybe it's time to start reading the damn things.
Mine was fine up until 2 days ago. Now I'm having the loose back cover issue. I cant believe I paid this much for a device and I have to consider modifying the back cover to fit properly.
After examining the inside of the battery cover (where the stylus inserts). I really don't see how not taking out the stylus would damage or bend the back cover when taking it off. Unless, you all see something I don't.
airon11 said:
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5418/cimg0603mod.jpg
here is a pic of the plastic tooth i modified..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you.
I pulled out my Drimmel tool and just barely cut a tad bit off that piece, I mean just a little bitty bit. Not too much. Now it fits a lot better than it did and it sits flush with the top of the phone like its suppose to. Don't get me wrong it could be tighter, but its not popping loose trying to get it out of its case.
Could you post a photo, maybe in good quality? I want to do same, but I am a little bit affraid... thx

I messed up my DZ doing the hinge thing... it's fixable though I reckon. Help? lol

I got this phone on Friday (yes I know I'm dumb to have ****ed around with it etc etc, w/e). I tore the phone down to get at the spring in the hinge so that I could stretch out the spring and make it stirdy. Anyway, putting it back together I notice that one of the screw holes to fasten the PCB to the body also lines up with the hole to fasten the back of the phone to the rest of it and I accidentally put the screw to fasten down the PCB in that hole instead. Forgetting I had already put my SIM card back in the phone to test functionality, I went to take off the back just so I could move that screw over... it pulled off normally, and I noticed my SIM card was still attached to the back of the phone... along with the module that holds the SIM card in.
Anyway, if it was held down with cold solder joints I'd have just handled that already, but this is like... a PCB glued to a PCB, and I haven't dealt with this before.
Basically what it looks like is two rows of four squares, kinda like a metallic checkered pattern? (I'd take a picture but my camera is the phone) that look kinda like this:
[] [] [] []
[] [] [] []
Is there like a conductive adhesive that I can get to glue this back down? I'm really bummed out and don't wanna have to spend another bunch of cash on another phone <_<
If there is anyway you can take a picture, that would be really helpful. Are you saying the phone itself has 8 metallic pads and there are 8 spring clips or something on the SIM card holder that line up with the pads (this latter part is my assumption)?
Without being able to actually look at it, I don't think conductive adhesive would be helpful and would actually be a bad idea (since it may short the pins together once you press the two pieces together). If it is designed the way I said above (contact pins on the holder touching surface pads on the PCB), then you would actually want to use something non-conductive like super glue to reattach the holder (making sure to align the pins with the pads and that the super doesn't cover the pads---the pins must make physical contact with the pads). I'm hesitant to actually recommend doing this without actually seeing pictures of it though. I guess as a test, you can try using the phone while simply holding the SIM card holder in place to see if it works (this is once again assuming the design I stated above). If that works, you could even just use some electrical tape to hold it in place. Once you screw the back cover on again, it should press the holder down enough to ensure constant contact with the PCB (you can even add a couple layers of tape to push the holder down more if needed).
They're little copper pads... I THINK I've figured out what I need, confirmation would be good though. I did some internet hunting last night and found that there was such a thing as conductive adhesive double-sided copper tape that's actually used for this **** (and I think might have been used in the first place for this as I peeled off a little piece from each contact).
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Sorry for the picture quality, but you get the jist of it. They're definitely not cold solder joints, and I think that tape is exactly what I need.
ianmcquinn said:
If there is anyway you can take a picture, that would be really helpful. Are you saying the phone itself has 8 metallic pads and there are 8 spring clips or something on the SIM card holder that line up with the pads (this latter part is my assumption)?
Without being able to actually look at it, I don't think conductive adhesive would be helpful and would actually be a bad idea (since it may short the pins together once you press the two pieces together). If it is designed the way I said above (contact pins on the holder touching surface pads on the PCB), then you would actually want to use something non-conductive like super glue to reattach the holder (making sure to align the pins with the pads and that the super doesn't cover the pads---the pins must make physical contact with the pads). I'm hesitant to actually recommend doing this without actually seeing pictures of it though. I guess as a test, you can try using the phone while simply holding the SIM card holder in place to see if it works (this is once again assuming the design I stated above). If that works, you could even just use some electrical tape to hold it in place. Once you screw the back cover on again, it should press the holder down enough to ensure constant contact with the PCB (you can even add a couple layers of tape to push the holder down more if needed).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. So I take it on the SIM card holder side, there are simply 8 corresponding pads as well? In that case, copper tape is the way to go. Just be careful not to bridge any of the pads and that the holder is properly aligned when you stick it on. Copper tape can get really expensive, but I think the small width ones are pretty reasonable (maybe $10 or $15 a reel). Or you see if any local hobby shops would be willing to just give you a little (or perhaps check for free samples online).
Good luck!
ianmcquinn said:
Interesting. So I take it on the SIM card holder side, there are simply 8 corresponding pads as well? In that case, copper tape is the way to go. Just be careful not to bridge any of the pads and that the holder is properly aligned when you stick it on. Copper tape can get really expensive, but I think the small width ones are pretty reasonable (maybe $10 or $15 a reel). Or you see if any local hobby shops would be willing to just give you a little (or perhaps check for free samples online).
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried my luck with exchanging it... "Yeah, it just won't detect my SIM card..."
All is well in the world of Dingle
did u get them to replace the phone? or u solved the problem?
Dinglehoofis said:
I tried my luck with exchanging it... "Yeah, it just won't detect my SIM card..."
All is well in the world of Dingle
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And that is why return policies get f'ed up for the rest of us.

[REPAIR] HTC Desire Digitiser Replacement WITH PHOTOS

Hi
A few days ago in college i was carrying my mate's Desire (in fact, he, myself and another friend there at the time all have them) and dropped it acidentally from about three or four feet. The digitiser/screen broke, shattered quite badly and i felt awful, so i offered to see how i could help in getting it replaced.
Carphone Warehouse wanted £170, we fixed it for <£30.
We decided it couldn't be too difficult to fix ourselves, and being young and inquisitive and very geeky we set about fixing the screen. The AMOLED hadn't bust, it was just the digitiser and from what we had heard it wasn't too difficult to fix. My friend Jed, not the guy who the original smashed Desire belonged to (that was James) had a bit of experience in the area so we weren't totally gung-ho about it. We knew we had to order parts so we did so from Ebay, and paid something like £1.60 for extra-speedy delivery - and then it was time to crack (s'cuse the pun) on.
We took some photos for our own interest, and i thought here would be a good place to see them so other people as enthusiastic about phones as i am could peruse them at their leisure All of the photos were captured with an HTC Desire.
UNFORTUNATELY, we didn't have the common sense to take a photo of the phone before we fixed it, so no before and after shots i'm afraid
Stuff we needed:
Screwdrivers (A small phillips and a torx 6 i think, it was really small anyway - there may have been more)
Cotton buds/pads
Isopropanol (lots)
Tweezers
All in all, it wasn't a difficult job, just one which required patience and forethought. It took Jed and myself three hours, and for unqualified teenagers i think that's about okay. Any questions, be sure to ask.
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Just a picture for size reference, we outlined the phone on my Moleskine (hipster, i know i know) so we could remember where screws went.
A close-up of the rear input (USB & Microphone) panel, with microSD and SIM slot.
Jed, removing the rear input panel type thing.
Rear input panel removed, exposing the lower PCB (which is removable).
Entire rear protection panel removed, exposing the Desire's sexy internals.
Close-up of CMOS sensor and antenna.
Unscrewing the main PCB for removal.
CMOS and antenna as above, different angle though.
CMOS sensor and antenna again from a different angle, while we're trying to remove the volume keys (which was SERIOUSLY f*cking difficult.)
Removing the rear input PCB, this was fiddly but fairly straightforward.
Another shot of the lower PCB coming out.
The furry stuff is the remnants of the glue that stuck the digitiser on, it took forever to get off.
AMOLED and touchscreen input port disconnection, which was super fiddly but easy enough.
The phone's main PCB resting on the box in which the digitiser came, for safe-keeping.
Slowly lifting the AMOLED, which was scary.
Old, cracked digitiser. You can faintly make out the damage, all of the top left side had completely shattered.
External front panel, with digitiser removed. You can make out some black furry stuff, which is the glue that held the original digitiser in place. This was the hardest part of the job as we had to make sure ALL of it came off. Isopropanol and cotton buds were needed, as well as sharp flat metal things to scrape off the glue. A LOT of Isopropanol was used.
New digitiser is laid in place and everything's re-assembled, all that's left to do is stick it in.
Final comparison shot, comparing the phone with a replaced digitiser or touch screen with one that never got hurt. Not too bad, if i do say so myself.
Wow great job!
Definitely a useful guide.
Agreed.
Awesome job!
Would you mind letting me know where you got it from and how much the digitizer cost?
mr_norris said:
Would you mind letting me know where you got it from and how much the digitizer cost?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
very interested in this as well!
nice job onthe post btw!
Nice post, always interested in how things come apart and more importantly go back together again.
Nice job!!
Nice description! I'm wondering if there is a digitizer out there that supports "real" multitouch capabilities for our Desire? Would this work (also in aspect to software needings)? Anyone knows?
The digitiser was found on eBay after a quick search for 'HTC Desire Digitiser', and we just looked for ones that mentioned they were for the Bravo, which of course was the Desire's codename. The digitiser itself cost about £25, which was pretty much the cheapest we could find - the seller was exquisite, with 100% positive feedback and hundreds of sales, they were solely selling phone parts.
£25 is really, really cheap when some people we spoke to about getting it fixed wanted over £150
What a great guide. Thanks so much!
You had a screen protector before the break?
While the digitizer supports "real" multitouch i really think it's the chip that decodes those touches that is to blame for our lack of "true" multitouch.
I'm looking at doing the same project. What did you use to stick the digitizer back? I've seen some people use super glue and some people use strong double sided tape.
Good job took me 3 hours to fix mine lol getting it back together was the hardest part great step by step tho
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
heavymetalmage said:
I'm looking at doing the same project. What did you use to stick the digitizer back? I've seen some people use super glue and some people use strong double sided tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very curious about this too (wifes shattered screen) it's the only part that I'm not confident about - one used double sided tape sliced into 2mm strips (http://tjworld.net/blog/htc-desire-tear-down#Finishing).
What did you use?
snowwhite007 said:
Good job took me 3 hours to fix mine lol getting it back together was the hardest part great step by step tho
Sent from my Desire HD using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did it last week. I ended up just using the remaining adhesive to stick it back in there. Holding fine so far!

How To Repair Samsung Captivate Glide Screen

RepairsUniverse compiled this video repair guide which walks you through taking apart your Captivate Glide, allowing you to replace the screen assembly or other internal parts. Following this guide will insure a safe and quick repair is made on your Samsung smartphone.
This guide will help you to install the following Samsung Captivate Glide part(s):
Samsung Captivate Glide LCD + Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe open pry tool
Small Phillips
Heat Gun / Hair Dryer
How To Repair Samsung Captivate Glide Screen
First step is to remove the back battery cover, the battery, the sim and the memory card.
Then use Small Phillips Screwdriver and remove the 7 screws as shown at Figure 1.
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Figure 1​
Once all the screws have been removed, slide to open the device then use safe pry opening tool and start prying along all the edges to release all the clips holding the back housing in place.
Once the back housing has been totally removed use Small Phillips Screwdriver to remove the 2 remaining screws. Then use safe pry tool to release the 3 connections. Once the screws and connections are released, you can now remove the motherboard. Once the motherboard has been separated, use safe pry tool to gently lift the lower circuit board and antenna away from the rest of the device.
Figure 2​
Next step is to remove the ten (10) screws.
Once the screws had been removed, use safe pry tool and begin lifting the back plate. Once all the clips had been release, the back can then now removed as well as the keyboard.
Next, we can now need to release the slide flex cable which is adhere to the slide portion of the device. Carefully slide it through the slot and be careful not to ripped the cable.
Remove the four (4) Phillips Screws in each corner. Once removed, you can now start releasing all the clips at all four sides of the screen assembly using safe pry tool. Once release you can now remove the back plate of the device. Be careful not to damaged the slide flex ribbon cable.
Now starts releasing the main jaw connector to totally release the slide flex ribbon cable together with the speaker and the front camera. You can also release the keypad flex cable from the jaw connector.
Figure 3​
With the use of heat gun or hair dryer, begin heating the outside edges of the device for about 45 seconds to soften the held adhesive. Use quick movements when applying heat.
Once the adhesive has been warmed, use safe pry tool to begin releasing the front housing from the front assembly. Once released, the front frame comes up from the front assembly.
Use safe pry tool and gently lift the keypad flex ribbon cable from the screen assembly. The screen assembly can now be replace.
Figure 4​
Reverse the instructions above to reassemble your phone.
Thanks a ton.
Would it be possible to get less fuzzy pictures? The motherboard pretty much looks like a jumble of blobs on my end.
OK, thanks. Now we'd only need a cheap source to buy replacements.
Amazing thanx for the great info and step by step instructions with the pictures. I do not know if I would ever do this as My Big fingers have trouble with such little parts. Very courageous of you and I am glad you were able to fix your Glide.
No problem, glad you found the guide useful.
Please excuse the late reply, figured this would be the best place to ask.
I'm currently repairing my Glide, the slider is damaged and my home keys don't work. I think I've got the slider figured out. My issue is that I'm not sure what to replace to repair the home keys. I believe it's the ribbon that is connected between the screen and the digitizer. I've circled it (and arrowed it) in the image below.
imgur.com/NFCjD (No links yet, sorry.)
I think it's think because there's a slight tear in it. My biggest problem is, I don't know where the hell to find that ribbon or what it's called. Any idea? Thanks.
Havok-San said:
Please excuse the late reply, figured this would be the best place to ask.
I'm currently repairing my Glide, the slider is damaged and my home keys don't work. I think I've got the slider figured out. My issue is that I'm not sure what to replace to repair the home keys. I believe it's the ribbon that is connected between the screen and the digitizer. I've circled it (and arrowed it) in the image below.
imgur.com/NFCjD (No links yet, sorry.)
I think it's think because there's a slight tear in it. My biggest problem is, I don't know where the hell to find that ribbon or what it's called. Any idea? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe you can find the part that you need: cellphonerepairshop.com. I bought an antenna from there and they shipped the item very fast.
I have a bricked camera and am now convinced that it is a hardware problem and a camera module is only $15 online, do you have better pics of the back with the housing off so I can see the cam module before attempting this or maybe you can answer this, can the cam be replaced after the back housing is off without more disassembly ? I'm 99.9% sure i can fix it but this is my only phone for now and i'm just trying to be educated before i start, Thanx
Dido on the Camera repair
Thx for the walkthrough, my Glide got water damaged but the screen and camera have no visible damage and if I can get a used one for cheap on eBay that just has a scratched screen I will definitely try this out but would also be interested in how to interchange the Camera just in case the Camera lens is scratched as well. My phone wasn't soaked but it was in my pocket when I had to walk home in the rain and I'm pretty sure it just got wet around the battery and probably shorted the board.
I am a noob and yes i used the search and this is where it led me.
It's curious.
You have to use the dryer or something like that with the outside edges of the device in order to soften the held adhesive.
Does this mean that adhesive it's the only thing that fixes the screen to the phone body? I ask this cause I bought what seems to be a refurbished one that I'm returning right know. It looks completely new, but the screen started to come off the phone structure one week after I started to use it.
Is this due to an screen replacement, and that adhesive as the only thing to hold the screen in the device? LOL
It is possible to replace just the LCD screen for this model?
amith12 said:
It is possible to replace just the LCD screen for this model?
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We highly suggest using a full screen assembly to do this repair. The lcd is bonded to the touch screen on this model.

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