Develop Bugs

Opened up my One X...

Got it open no problem, using fingernails and an old mastercard.
I do not recommend anyone do this unless they are very familiar with doing similar tasks - there are a number of things that can go wrong and some very delicate connections that will break easily.
Been trying all the PWR, Vol+/- combos and plugging it into my PC via USB. Nothing happens, at all. Is this useful info? No device is seen.
Even tried a dummy SIM to push a small contact switch closed at the bottom of the SIM socket, still no effect.
I've taken some photos, and identified the various antennas if anyone is interested. I will add them shortly.
Update:
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http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1643532
Put the stuff in there bud, already similar topic. Easier for people to keep track.
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium

twistedh said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1643532
Put the stuff in there bud, already similar topic. Easier for people to keep track.
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that topic is full off, warranty crap i would read the s-off development and see if anything is in there.

i opened mine, its quite hard to initially get the screen to pop out, i wouldnt recomend using anything other than finger nails or you will damage something
after you opened it the Power button and Vol button will fall out, dont dop them!
the power button and vol button have a certain orientation, took me ages to realise that the power button only fit one way
removing the mainboard is quite hard, you have to void the warranty and there is a connector that is allmost impossible to get off(next to the battery)
oh and when you pull the mainboard up it gets disconnected from the power button ribbon, so make sure you un-glue the internal power button (pull it up) before pulling up the mainboard
so yeah its hard

Question: What's the pinhole above the headset connector for? Where do you get through that? It's a microphone or not?
Thanx!

AliceXES said:
Question: What's the pinhole above the headset connector for? Where do you get through that? It's a microphone or not?
Thanx!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the second mic, for noise cancellation.

Dave Trouser said:
It's the second mic, for noise cancellation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe it's also used for the secondary (stereo) audio channel in One X video capture.

knoxploration said:
I believe it's also used for the secondary (stereo) audio channel in One X video capture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, I forgot about that Although going by what some are saying, it doesn't record proper stereo anyway...

Dave Trouser said:
Yep, I forgot about that Although going by what some are saying, it doesn't record proper stereo anyway...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I've seen several reports of that too. Haven't tested myself though, mostly because until the stuttering / dropped frames are fixed, the video capture isn't really useful to me...

According to you is simple fot a noob replace a scratch screen?

acer73 said:
According to you is simple fot a noob replace a scratch screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's already been answered before: no. At least, not cheaply. The Gorilla cover glass is bonded in place, so replacing it will realistically involve replacing the entire screen assembly, which is a significant portion of the phone. (And good luck getting a replacement part that's not itself damaged.)

So how easy is it to replace the battery?

The Asgard said:
So how easy is it to replace the battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tricky, but possible. The average user would mess it up though. If the connector were located differently, I'd say most could do it. But the connector is on the side of the board facing the screen, so it has to be lifted off to disconnect the battery.
The one major thing that would stop people doing this safely is the small power switch connection under the board that pops off (should be manually disconnected!) when the board is raised more than about 5mm. Assuming the user gets that far and the connector ribbon is not damaged from the pulling, the user then faces the challenge of reconnecting it - and they must or the phone will not power on! It can only be done when the board is almost back in place, using some very small tweezers and quite some skill.
The battery connector itself is relatively easy, but as I mentioned in another post, it comes off differently than you might expect, which leaves room for damage if it is forced. The battery itself is glued down, so must be forced off - again a risk for the inexperienced as you could damage the battery if excessive force is used from the wrong point, or worse, you could damage the delicate ribbon cables that lie under it if you try and pry it off with something by sliding under it.
So in summary: it is possible but only if you have experience with disassembling similar devices and putting them back properly. The margin for error is thin.

acer73 said:
According to you is simple fot a noob replace a scratch screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely not. I'm not sure I'd even try that myself without having the proper service manual - there are too many things to go wrong.

Dave Trouser said:
Absolutely not. I'm not sure I'd even try that myself without having the proper service manual - there are too many things to go wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You shouldnt have done that...
Lol just kidding!
Is that a connector farther to the top from the pogo pins near the WiFi label you placed? its only one piece but could be our magic lock.
Edit: on zooming in it looks more like a screw.
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

can you had a video, opening the HOX ?

vladnosferatu said:
can you had a video, opening the HOX ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, because then people with zero skill will copy it and break their HOX and then blame me. If you can't work it out from the Chinese tear down photos, then you lack the skill needed to avoid doing damage.
Also, I don't have time to make a video anyway

just create ananonymous youtube acc, create a video and voila, let em blame you all they want. you are on the net aNd anonymous so no big deal

shadehh said:
just create ananonymous youtube acc, create a video and voila, let em blame you all they want. you are on the net aNd anonymous so no big deal
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
exactly

Mmm disassembling pr0n
Sent from my GT-P1000 using xda premium

How To Repair Samsung Captivate Glide Screen

RepairsUniverse compiled this video repair guide which walks you through taking apart your Captivate Glide, allowing you to replace the screen assembly or other internal parts. Following this guide will insure a safe and quick repair is made on your Samsung smartphone.
This guide will help you to install the following Samsung Captivate Glide part(s):
Samsung Captivate Glide LCD + Touch Screen Digitizer Replacement
Tools Required:
Safe open pry tool
Small Phillips
Heat Gun / Hair Dryer
How To Repair Samsung Captivate Glide Screen
First step is to remove the back battery cover, the battery, the sim and the memory card.
Then use Small Phillips Screwdriver and remove the 7 screws as shown at Figure 1.
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Figure 1​
Once all the screws have been removed, slide to open the device then use safe pry opening tool and start prying along all the edges to release all the clips holding the back housing in place.
Once the back housing has been totally removed use Small Phillips Screwdriver to remove the 2 remaining screws. Then use safe pry tool to release the 3 connections. Once the screws and connections are released, you can now remove the motherboard. Once the motherboard has been separated, use safe pry tool to gently lift the lower circuit board and antenna away from the rest of the device.
Figure 2​
Next step is to remove the ten (10) screws.
Once the screws had been removed, use safe pry tool and begin lifting the back plate. Once all the clips had been release, the back can then now removed as well as the keyboard.
Next, we can now need to release the slide flex cable which is adhere to the slide portion of the device. Carefully slide it through the slot and be careful not to ripped the cable.
Remove the four (4) Phillips Screws in each corner. Once removed, you can now start releasing all the clips at all four sides of the screen assembly using safe pry tool. Once release you can now remove the back plate of the device. Be careful not to damaged the slide flex ribbon cable.
Now starts releasing the main jaw connector to totally release the slide flex ribbon cable together with the speaker and the front camera. You can also release the keypad flex cable from the jaw connector.
Figure 3​
With the use of heat gun or hair dryer, begin heating the outside edges of the device for about 45 seconds to soften the held adhesive. Use quick movements when applying heat.
Once the adhesive has been warmed, use safe pry tool to begin releasing the front housing from the front assembly. Once released, the front frame comes up from the front assembly.
Use safe pry tool and gently lift the keypad flex ribbon cable from the screen assembly. The screen assembly can now be replace.
Figure 4​
Reverse the instructions above to reassemble your phone.

Thanks a ton.
Would it be possible to get less fuzzy pictures? The motherboard pretty much looks like a jumble of blobs on my end.

OK, thanks. Now we'd only need a cheap source to buy replacements.

Amazing thanx for the great info and step by step instructions with the pictures. I do not know if I would ever do this as My Big fingers have trouble with such little parts. Very courageous of you and I am glad you were able to fix your Glide.

No problem, glad you found the guide useful.

Please excuse the late reply, figured this would be the best place to ask.
I'm currently repairing my Glide, the slider is damaged and my home keys don't work. I think I've got the slider figured out. My issue is that I'm not sure what to replace to repair the home keys. I believe it's the ribbon that is connected between the screen and the digitizer. I've circled it (and arrowed it) in the image below.
imgur.com/NFCjD (No links yet, sorry.)
I think it's think because there's a slight tear in it. My biggest problem is, I don't know where the hell to find that ribbon or what it's called. Any idea? Thanks.

Havok-San said:
Please excuse the late reply, figured this would be the best place to ask.
I'm currently repairing my Glide, the slider is damaged and my home keys don't work. I think I've got the slider figured out. My issue is that I'm not sure what to replace to repair the home keys. I believe it's the ribbon that is connected between the screen and the digitizer. I've circled it (and arrowed it) in the image below.
imgur.com/NFCjD (No links yet, sorry.)
I think it's think because there's a slight tear in it. My biggest problem is, I don't know where the hell to find that ribbon or what it's called. Any idea? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe you can find the part that you need: cellphonerepairshop.com. I bought an antenna from there and they shipped the item very fast.

I have a bricked camera and am now convinced that it is a hardware problem and a camera module is only $15 online, do you have better pics of the back with the housing off so I can see the cam module before attempting this or maybe you can answer this, can the cam be replaced after the back housing is off without more disassembly ? I'm 99.9% sure i can fix it but this is my only phone for now and i'm just trying to be educated before i start, Thanx

Dido on the Camera repair
Thx for the walkthrough, my Glide got water damaged but the screen and camera have no visible damage and if I can get a used one for cheap on eBay that just has a scratched screen I will definitely try this out but would also be interested in how to interchange the Camera just in case the Camera lens is scratched as well. My phone wasn't soaked but it was in my pocket when I had to walk home in the rain and I'm pretty sure it just got wet around the battery and probably shorted the board.
I am a noob and yes i used the search and this is where it led me.

It's curious.
You have to use the dryer or something like that with the outside edges of the device in order to soften the held adhesive.
Does this mean that adhesive it's the only thing that fixes the screen to the phone body? I ask this cause I bought what seems to be a refurbished one that I'm returning right know. It looks completely new, but the screen started to come off the phone structure one week after I started to use it.
Is this due to an screen replacement, and that adhesive as the only thing to hold the screen in the device? LOL

It is possible to replace just the LCD screen for this model?

amith12 said:
It is possible to replace just the LCD screen for this model?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We highly suggest using a full screen assembly to do this repair. The lcd is bonded to the touch screen on this model.

[Q] Flickering screen problem

Hi All.
I hope that anyone will be able to assist me. I have the Note 10.1 (2014) P-605. After a month with the tablet the screen started to flicker intermittently. Is would do it for a few seconds then go away.
At first I thought it was a problem with my smart cover as it seem to be better if I take it out of the cover. I have since replaced the cover and worked without it and while it has been better it is still there.
I have rooted the tab and thus I can send it back to Samsung.
I have tried apps to disable the magnet cover and still nothing.
I have also tried other roms (Stocky and Revolution) but still have the problem.
Has anyone else have/had the problem and is there a solution to this very irritating issue
Thank you in advance

Best thing to do is reseed the display ribbon. Power off the device, remove back panel, the ribbon on the left overlapping the battery is the display ribbon.

tls. said:
Best thing to do is reseed the display ribbon. Power off the device, remove back panel, the ribbon on the left overlapping the battery is the display ribbon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is there a good manual on how to open the note? Don’t want to do any damage ?

tls. said:
Best thing to do is reseed the display ribbon. Power off the device, remove back panel, the ribbon on the left overlapping the battery is the display ribbon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is there a good manual on how to open the note? Don’t want to do any damage ?
what I am not sure of , is that it never does it in the bootloading or in recovery.

You can seperate the piece of plastic (backside) from the "silver" frame, or just seperate the silver frame from the main body/display - they are just clips, just be easy. Use a credit card or a tool seperation.
Eliminate the most obvious problem (ribbon cable), if persists maybe an underlying hardware issue. More then likely its just the ribbon cable as the mainboard is not really flush with battery which can lead to the ribbon coming loose.

LMGray said:
is there a good manual on how to open the note? Don’t want to do any damage ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=49595697

I have the exact same problem with my tab it's something that comes and goes I hope it's the ribbon and not GPU. Coz I also rooted my device and wount b able to take it back. If you guys find a solution please let me know.
Will try to reseat the ribbon tonight. Will give feedback tomorrow

No Luck
I opened my tablet last night, remove ribbon then reinserted it but no luck screen still flickers.

TheVirus1 said:
I opened my tablet last night, remove ribbon then reinserted it but no luck screen still flickers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is not good news. I wonder if anyone else has this problem or is there a way that I can send it back to Samsung?

LMGray said:
That is not good news. I wonder if anyone else has this problem or is there a way that I can send it back to Samsung?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My personal opinion I think it's not the LCD but the GPU, because my screen display artifacts like that of a dying PC GPU.

TheVirus1 said:
My personal opinion I think it's not the LCD but the GPU, because my screen display artifacts like that of a dying PC GPU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It that something I can have replaced?

I had the same problem. The display started flickering, then after I switched it off and on again, the display stayed black, although I could still hear incoming notifications. I sent it in for repair. In the repair log, they told me that a cable was replaced. Since I received it back, it has been working without any problems.
The repair was very quick here in Germany. I sent it in on a Monday and received it back the same week on Friday - that's really quick! I could also check the status online.

Its the LCD ribbon cable that is loose and its at bottom of the ribbon cable that need to "tighten up". Can put electric cable over so it wont become loose again.Might need few tries to do it correct.
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I have been getting horizontal artifacts when using hardware acceleration for videos since the 4.4 update myself. I'm thinking the update may have changed clock speeds or something.

dt33 said:
Its the LCD ribbon cable that is loose and its at bottom of the ribbon cable that need to "tighten up". Can put electric cable over so it wont become loose again.Might need few tries to do it correct.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the advice.
It does seem strange that it never happens in the boot animations. Only in android itself.
what is the best way to open the tablet without damage? The back or the front.
Thank you in advance

LMGray said:
Thank you for the advice.
It does seem strange that it never happens in the boot animations. Only in android itself.
what is the best way to open the tablet without damage? The back or the front.
Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It happens again yesterday, after the tab got lights hits/shaking etc.... past months and the screen starts to show symptons of flickering. But this time I didnt wait until it goes total black, since I know what causing the problem.
Just open the backcover with fingernails (or whatever tools needed, like creditcard but fingernails works best and fastest to open with ) and this time I just needed to remove ribbon cable from zif connector and reinsert it again. Then jsut be sure push a little at bottom of the LCD ribbon cable too. The problem went right away. :victory:

dt33 said:
It happens again yesterday, after the tab got lights hits/shaking etc.... past months and the screen starts to show symptons of flickering. But this time I didnt wait until it goes total black, since I know what causing the problem.
Just open the backcover with fingernails (or whatever tools needed, like creditcard but fingernails works best and fastest to open with ) and this time I just needed to remove ribbon cable from zif connector and reinsert it again. Then jsut be sure push a little at bottom of the LCD ribbon cable too. The problem went right away. :victory:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you
I have opened the Tablet and for two days everything is going great. Thank you all for all the help.

[MOD][THERMAL][GUTS] nVidia Shield TV 16GB Thermal Paste Replacement

Here we have a simple MOD to replace the thermal paste on my Shield TV.
I have not tested to see how bad or if this X1 chip throttles under a good load but I figured it couldn't hurt to replace the TIM with something better than stock. So here we Gooooooo!
Disclaimer: I hold no responsibility if you attempt this and break your device. You my friend bear all the risks.
Here we have the Guts! The Bottom was surprisingly easy to remove with only some clips holding it in place. So pry lightly from the corner and edges and be careful not to pry to hard or insert anything like a spludger as you may break tabs or crack the plastic so be easy and work your way around by hand if at all possible.
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The device does not look as glamorous on the inside as the nvidia renders suggested when it was advertised. lol
It does however show a very small, powerful device, with a lot of added weight to assist in its premium feel and or using the available vertical stand you can purchase from nVidia.
Here is the connection board. I won't have to take all this stuff out at the moment but If there is a bigger demand for it I will later as I can't find many teardowns of the shield anywhere, I had found one but it was not very detailed on the method.
Here is a small piece of tape holding the very small wires away from the heat pipe. Make sure these are clear from the pipe during and after removal as you don't want to pull on them or expose them to direct contact with the heat pipe after it's reinstall.
We start by removing the two small screws holding the fan and heat sink into place.
Sometimes the small anker will come out with the screw but it can be reseated with a little pressure.
Next, begin by removing the three spring reinforced screws applying pressure to the main X1 chip.
Now we get to see and clean the gunk they slathered on at the factory! YAY!
Use some high grade alcohol at least 70% and begin cleaning with some cotton swabs and q-tips.
Ugh!! Clean it..... Clean it real good!
Oooha Shiny!
Clean the X1 chip off carefully and try not to let the gunk flop around and get pushed into the small crevices in the top of the metal CPU lid. We don't want to insulate the heat in the chip. The best method is to soak a cotton ball in alcohol but not too much and go in for one big swipe to get the bulk of the TIM off. Then go back in with a small q-tip to get the remaining film or small pieces of leftover TIM
Now simply use your TIM of choice. I chose Gelid Extreme with a thermal conductivity of 8.5w/m-k as it had exceptional results when I did a similar cooling mod to my Nexus 6P. Apply a small rice grain sized amount to the top of the X1 chip right in the middle. Mine usually end up looking like a small grey Hershey's Kiss. Do not spread it with a card or spreader. This creates air pockets under pressure and insulates the chip from the heat pipe and will cause temperatures to go up.
Now reseat the fan in the exhaust slot first.
Then begin laying heat pipe and copper plate back onto the CPU slowly, and in a straight downward fashion. If the plate makes contact with the TIM and you have to back it out for any reason, you will need to remove and clean the TIM before reapplying because now air pockets will develope.
Screw the 3 screws on the heat pipe back in tightly
Screw the fan back in securely
Clean up and snap the bottom back on and wipe her down and boom your good to go!
To break the paste in a little make sure you heat her up good and play a graphically intense game. Just anything to get the Cuda cores churning a little. Then let her fully cool off at some point by pulling the power cable and letting it sit a little to fully cool in an off state instead of simply just sleeping. This simple full heat cycle ensures the TIM adjusts and sets correctly.
Enjoy!!!:highfive:

I really see no need to do this, but thx anyway
BTW, nice vaping unit

scaramonga said:
I really see no need to do this, but thx anyway
BTW, nice vaping unit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree this is not a mod everyone needs to do because of shields dropping dead from heat damage or anything because they don't. But I did it to mine so I figured having some pics available and such would be at least worth posting and having available. Oh and thanks it is a Mini Volt. It is a tiny little thing! Good for carrying when your just headed to the corner store and back.

What I have found to make quite a difference is to put some thermal pads over the heatsink so that it is thermally connected to the aluminum baseplate.

Do I need ink to do this properly?
Pp.
sent from my stone/stock S6e using microwave technology.

Screen flickering issue has resulted to a permanent green tint Tab S 8.4

I do have one of the issues where the Tab S 8.4 would suddenly flicker and shutdown. It has been restarting for months, then after several months a green tint appeared throughout the whole display. At first, the issue of the green tint would easily be solved by inserting a bit of pressure on the top area of the display, it keeps on persisting every hour and all I do is insert a bit pressure to return to its original color. Finally, after 2 days the green tint has become permanent. The display would only return to its original color if you keep on holding on the top area and applying pressure OR if I directly point the air conditioning to the tablet for it to be very cold. I don't know why the tablet would return to its original color once it gets very very cold but hopefully it could mean that the display isn't completely broken.
I would just ask if anyone here has the same problem(or other device with amoled). Hopefully you could help me shed light to my problem. The display is completely fine if you would apply some pressure. Presumably other factors could be making the display go green.

It is most likely loose connectors, like display cable and battery cable, A lot of 8.4" owners have problem with flickering screen that was caused by a bad battery connection, I suppose the display cable could come loose as well, You can find guides on youtube on how to open the 8.4" so you can check the connectors, remove and replace them and see if it makes a difference.
John.

You're not alone...
carlchan31 said:
I do have one of the issues where the Tab S 8.4 would suddenly flicker and shutdown. It has been restarting for months, then after several months a green tint appeared throughout the whole display. At first, the issue of the green tint would easily be solved by inserting a bit of pressure on the top area of the display, it keeps on persisting every hour and all I do is insert a bit pressure to return to its original color. Finally, after 2 days the green tint has become permanent. The display would only return to its original color if you keep on holding on the top area and applying pressure OR if I directly point the air conditioning to the tablet for it to be very cold. I don't know why the tablet would return to its original color once it gets very very cold but hopefully it could mean that the display isn't completely broken.
I would just ask if anyone here has the same problem(or other device with amoled). Hopefully you could help me shed light to my problem. The display is completely fine if you would apply some pressure. Presumably other factors could be making the display go green.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine is suffering the same display problem. It is not linked to the display connector, but there must be a defective connexion somewhere on the screen surface... I haven't tried to completely disassemble the thing to see what's going on after the screen connector.
Replacement display are quite expensive.... So any other solution is welcome.

Tinderbox (UK) said:
It is most likely loose connectors, like display cable and battery cable, A lot of 8.4" owners have problem with flickering screen that was caused by a bad battery connection, I suppose the display cable could come loose as well, You can find guides on youtube on how to open the 8.4" so you can check the connectors, remove and replace them and see if it makes a difference.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure if the cable of the LCD can be replaced but if there is any way I'll be really thankful

sunbowch said:
Mine is suffering the same display problem. It is not linked to the display connector, but there must be a defective connexion somewhere on the screen surface... I haven't tried to completely disassemble the thing to see what's going on after the screen connector.
Replacement display are quite expensive.... So any other solution is welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try to replace the battery with a brand new one. Do you think it would work? I was really hoping that it would be fix without replacing the LCD

carlchan31 said:
I'll try to replace the battery with a brand new one. Do you think it would work? I was really hoping that it would be fix without replacing the LCD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A bad battery or bad battery connection usually makes the screen flicker, I have never seen it make the screen change colour, I would says you have a faulty display or a loose or faulty display cable.
John.

Mine did this shortly after I bought it back in 2015. Screen was replaced under warranty, and no problems since.

i use mine as a permanent car install. when temperatures fall below zero and i start my car the screen is green or better all greys turn to a light green. as soon as the tab heats up a bit the screen behaves as normal again. dont know if this helps in any way.

I have the same problem, if someone finds a solution for this.
Please let us know tia
I am talking about a solution other than warranty or screen replacement

Found this display pin for tab s 8.4 https://www.screenfix.ie/product/sa...t700-t705-display-2x20-pin-fpc-connector-d37/
Would this work if I bring this to my local technician?

Edit: i just realised that OP's tablet is a tab s 8.4 (Facepalm)
well.. it might be related ?... the 8.4 have a strange pad too :/
--------------------------------------------
It might be high temperature related, i think.
When i was making my heatsink mod i removed a kind of rubber pad that is sitting in the back of the PCB, with no apparent function.
This pad links the PCB with the back cover, that has a thin aluminium foil (for isolation and temp dissipation, i believe)
After some minutes on, my screen started flickering like crazy with a strange color balance (it was not all green, but the colors are far from normal) after a while the tab always restarted.
Putting the pad back solved the problem.
I think that it explain the fact it get better if you make pressure on the back. probably your back cover is a bit loose, not making proper contact with that PCB.
Even that it doesn't looks like a thermal pad, it have some important function apparently... maybe a cheap workaround samsung used for a screen controller overheating issue ?
Image showing what i'm talking about:
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