Develop Bugs

How to tear open the A100 and switch out the microphone module

Alright so by demand and as a newcomer gift to XDA, I will show you how to open up the Acer Iconia A100 tablet and how to replace the crappy microphone they provide with it, this thread is going to have pictures and is going to need a bit of organization skills and some soldering skills , so let's start
Before beginning note: make sure to work on a towel or something soft as the tablet will be upside down, I didn't use one and I got pretty bad scratches on my protector, as you will see in the last picture.
BEFORE BEGINNING NOTE #2 YAY!: I am in no way responsible of any damage to your device, your life, your marriage, your emotions, your cream cheese bagel order at Tim Horton's that wasn't discounted 18 cents, or your cat. So do this at your OWN risk.
Before beginning note #3: This will void your warranty....DUH. But I really don't care about mine because my slogan is "I VOID WARRANTIES "
Things you will need:
1) Set of small philips screwdrivers
2) Soldering iron
3) Solder (optional, not necessary as the mics have solder on them already)
4) Something to pry the plastic open with (I used my nail but you can use a flathead screwdriver...etc)
5) Another microphone you are going to use (preferably from a webcam/ headset, as they need to be the exact size or close to the original one)
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Now let's get to work.
Acer A100, great tablet, crappy battery and crappy mic.
In the next few images, I will pry off the plastic sides of the tablet, don't worry if you feel like they bend, just run your finger across and under the pieces until you hear all the snap ins snap out.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side:
Left side:
Alright, now that all the sides are off, let's get to the screws, there are 5 screws you have to get off, in these pictures you will see where they are.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side(NO SCREWS HERE, CARRY ON)
Left side:
Well now I really don't have to say it cause it's really obvious, grab your screw driver and get to work on these screws, make sure you put them on the side after you take em' out.
NOW FOR THE FUN PART , Really opening it up, get your nail ready, or whatever you're going to use for prying the plastic apart, and start SLOWLY prying the 2 pieces apart, CAREFULLY!
And now, completely take off the back cover (Don't worry, there's nothing connected to it, it's just an antenna)
AND BEHOLD, THE INTERNALS! (and that damned battery.....)
Alright now don't get too excited (I learned this the hard way...), there's a few things you must do first, look around and get familiar where everything is, and DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CONNECTOR!(Warning: as soon as you disconnect the battery, the whole tablet will shut down COMPLETELY, so make sure you save anything you haven't saved like game progress etc...then unplug it)
Now the left side is where the good stuff is at, so ignore everything else and just go to the left side.
Notice there is 3 connectors, the Microphone connector (black), some other connector (white and black), and some other connector (yellow), all of these have to go out, and once they are out there are 2 screws holding that small chip down in place, one black and one silver, these 2 have to go out too.
First connector (white and black), just open the small black tab and pull the flat thing out, should be really easy:
Second connector (yellow), this thing just pulls off the board, just easily lift it up:
and now remove the 2 screws and put them aside:
And now really gently pull the small board out, might need some wiggling around but it'll come out, it will be obstructed because the microphone is still in its place, but just lift the microphone out, it slides right out
So I accidentally deleted the rest of this post and lost all the images, but its pretty straight forward, just desolder the microphone, solder a new one on and pop everything back into place, make sure to put the battery connector on last and close up the tablet.
Enjoy your new microphone and hope this wasn't too long, please use the thanks button if it helped you

Man, As soon as I am able to risk opening up my A100 I so want to do this. Thanks, not only for doing it but for taking the time to take pics and post it all. You Rock!

You're very welcome, I had many more pics assembling it back, but I accidentally deleted them and lost all of it haha

Hey do you think this mic might work out? or do you have a part# for the one you used, or from what model webcam you took it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement...950292?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4ab6c51954

Well I tested 3 mics from 2 webcams and one headset, the headset was the Xbox live one and it sucked crap, and the 2 Logitech webcams were Logitech V-UM14 and V-UBC40, I settled for the one from the ubc40 as it seemed better than the um14.
About the Nokia one, I don't know if it would work as there are no solder points and you gotta take into consideration the size, both my webcams and the headset and the tablet had mics that were really close in size
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk

Nice, ok I'll scour the interwebz to get one. I don't really need it for now... but I know I'll get bored one of these days and I'll give this mod a try. Thanks.

Well if you ever do it, post which mic you use and if it works or not.
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk

great job man! time to find me a mic! whoop!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium

You are very welcome, feel free to tell everyone how it goes with the new mic
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk

Mic Dimensions
Anyone have the Mic dimensions? I'm going to try and order one from Digikey while I perform a screen repair on a friends tablet in the next week or two.
Having the dimensions and what type of connection used will help select the correct one. Is it a surface mount or are wires running to it?
Thanks

THANKS
My daughter dropped hers on the power plug and the power plug was fouled inside. I was worried I would not be able to replace the power adapter and sure enough, after reading your post with picks I realized I could buy the adapter for $15 and replace it myself. Worked like a champ! Again thanks for the picks, it really answered how to take it apart.

My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks

superfaker said:
My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1

pio_masaki said:
Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply !
I bought it in november 2011 so the warranty ended
I opened the a100
I remove the battery connector then pushed the power button several times (5 to 30 seconds)
i reconnect the battery & the powersupply to see if it will charge or power on > Didn't worked
so i was desperate, thinking of destroy the **************** tablet but i reassemble it
i retried to power on with the power button.....blue led on...acer a100 is booting
it's working for now, reset the tablet ....wait n see......

This is very interesting, that you would do this, ive contemplated it but ive sooner used a headset when necessery. I have a phone now though. Im gonna loom into revamping the battery. Now thatd be a mod
Sent from a Soviet base in Indiana

So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris

airbus318 said:
So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I think there are a few screws that hold it down and a plug. So once you open it up it is pretty easy.

Thanks will attempt.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

External Mic
Perhaps a silly question, but how difficult would it be to drill a small hole in the plastic near the microphone and solder wires to the mic location? And what would the max length of wire possible? Just rough guesses, I know it's pretty hard to be specific on stuff like that. Reason is that I have mine installed in my car as a head unit and was curious if I could run wire from the tablet to a mic mounted in the roof/headliner so that I could issue voice commands in a normal volume. I'd post a pic of my install but I don't have enough posts.

What could happen if i disconnect the other connectors first instead of the battery connector?

Replacing Microphone from motherboard

So my Epic 4g touch has a fried microphone.
I am not new on opening up phones, replacing flex cables, or lcd screens etc because it is very simple. But now this requires soldering and all that from the motherboard.
That is what I need help with, I do not just want to jump on it right away... I do not even know where the microphone is honestly.
Also to kill two birds with one stone, I need to do the same for the USB Port.

Why not just buy a epic touch with a broken LCD and make one phone out of two. Ribbon cables are one thing but soldering a tiny phone.. I have some experience soldering but I would have to feel pretty brave to do it on a phone.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda app-developers app

brooksyx said:
Why not just buy a epic touch with a broken LCD and make one phone out of two. Ribbon cables are one thing but soldering a tiny phone.. I have some experience soldering but I would have to feel pretty brave to do it on a phone.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought about that too but these prices are ridiculous. Literally a destroyed phone which looked like someone torched it with a flamethrower on ebay went up to $120. The seller claimed nothing could be tested and had bad ESN.
I'm not good at gambling.
Sent from my ADR6300 using xda app-developers app

Good news is I found the microphone. It's on the bottom on the back side of the motherboard... And it's really really tiny
Sent from my ADR6300 using xda app-developers app

eljean said:
Good news is I found the microphone. It's on the bottom on the back side of the motherboard... And it's really really tiny
Sent from my ADR6300 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
im too lazy to take mine apart to look at the motherboard right now, however looking at the pictures of the motherboard on ifixit it looks like there are only two traces running to it, and its surface mount...not sure how you would go about lifting it, as i'm assuming the amount of heat required to do so, even using a proper re-flow station (dont think a heatgun will work for this one! its a little smaller than an xbox 360 mainboard!) would negativity affect/destroy the microphone itself...furthermore I'm not at all sure how you would go about sourcing a replacement microphone... I can't imagine Samsung would be able to send you one... now that I mention samsung though, these things have a one year warranty, you may want to contact them and ask about getting it serviced from them... I know some people with emmc bricks have had success with getting repair work done directly by samsung.
the usb port is easier though, de-solder the 4 posts holding it in place, and then very carefully using your iron and something like an xacto knife very carefully lift the pins connecting it to the motherboard... scavenge a similar one from a suitable donor device, solder the posts into place and then just use your iron lightly to push the pins back into the solder left on the pads... I've not done a micro usb before but have successfully replaced several hdmi ports using this method, same thing, only smaller with fewer pins... good luck with it...

cp320703 said:
im too lazy to take mine apart to look at the motherboard right now, however looking at the pictures of the motherboard on ifixit it looks like there are only two traces running to it, and its surface mount...not sure how you would go about lifting it, as i'm assuming the amount of heat required to do so, even using a proper re-flow station (dont think a heatgun will work for this one! its a little smaller than an xbox 360 mainboard!) would negativity affect/destroy the microphone itself...furthermore I'm not at all sure how you would go about sourcing a replacement microphone... I can't imagine Samsung would be able to send you one... now that I mention samsung though, these things have a one year warranty, you may want to contact them and ask about getting it serviced from them... I know some people with emmc bricks have had success with getting repair work done directly by samsung.
the usb port is easier though, de-solder the 4 posts holding it in place, and then very carefully using your iron and something like an xacto knife very carefully lift the pins connecting it to the motherboard... scavenge a similar one from a suitable donor device, solder the posts into place and then just use your iron lightly to push the pins back into the solder left on the pads... I've not done a micro usb before but have successfully replaced several hdmi ports using this method, same thing, only smaller with fewer pins... good luck with it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tip!
Unfortunately I have no insurance, but the way I see it is that if these guys can do it http://cellphone-repair-shop.com/samsung-microphone/ then I should be able to do it. (I really wanna do it as well not only to just fix it but to also learn something new if you understand). Also, I can use the same microphone from an AT&T Captivate which I found for $9.99 on ebay. Tomorrow I will post a picture of the motherboard and the location of the microphone.

newalker91 said:
In order to do it you'll need to use a precision heat gun to warm up the microphone, then use something like a razor blade to pop it off of the board. Regular soldering irons aren't used for this type of placement, you'll have to cold solder it in place making sure to get a good solder joint around the edge to keep it lined up perfectly with the contact points on the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. So you're telling me I can't use de-soldering wire...
Then wouldn't it be the same to heat up the razor and pop it up? Sounds barbaric but that was the first thing that popped in my head after I read your post.
And since the mic hardly has any electricity that runs through it and is so tiny would it be better to use that carbon based electrical glue?
Sent from my ADR6300 using xda app-developers app

eljean said:
Thanks for the tip!
Unfortunately I have no insurance, but the way I see it is that if these guys can do it http://cellphone-repair-shop.com/samsung-microphone/ then I should be able to do it. (I really wanna do it as well not only to just fix it but to also learn something new if you understand). Also, I can use the same microphone from an AT&T Captivate which I found for $9.99 on ebay. Tomorrow I will post a picture of the motherboard and the location of the microphone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh I totally understand why you would want to do it yourself, I had thoughts on how to do it because I do the same sort of stuff whenever possible... I think the guy that posted afterme/you had some really good thoughts as well, only thing I wanted to add is that I was not referring to any sort of insurance, but to the 1 year Samsung manufactures warranty on the parts
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda app-developers app

Pictures
Yeah I have no type of insurance at all. My phone is going for two years now...
Nevertheless here are the pictures of the microphone and motherboard
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The one circled in blue is the earpiece sound receiver I assume since it is connected to the earpiece or could be a secondary mic for the camcorder although this phone is not known to have two mics. Regardless of the fact, it remains irrelevant just wanted to point it out
The one circled red I am sure is the microphone since it is located right on the bottom where the mic hole on the phone housing is on.
As you can see it is pretty tiny. Any ideas?

Phone motherboard fixture for phone PCB repair
Relax finally, busy work recently, i saw the above comment,most of them are not a professional phone repair man, of course ,i have no other means, i just want t share a magic product with you guys, it is really a nice product.
I purchased the goods from a china team, they have shop in amazon, aliexpress, and their own WEB, but i choose the amazon, i guess you know this why.
It can support 5-8p. if you want to know more about this, you can contact me.

[Q] Flickering screen problem

Hi All.
I hope that anyone will be able to assist me. I have the Note 10.1 (2014) P-605. After a month with the tablet the screen started to flicker intermittently. Is would do it for a few seconds then go away.
At first I thought it was a problem with my smart cover as it seem to be better if I take it out of the cover. I have since replaced the cover and worked without it and while it has been better it is still there.
I have rooted the tab and thus I can send it back to Samsung.
I have tried apps to disable the magnet cover and still nothing.
I have also tried other roms (Stocky and Revolution) but still have the problem.
Has anyone else have/had the problem and is there a solution to this very irritating issue
Thank you in advance

Best thing to do is reseed the display ribbon. Power off the device, remove back panel, the ribbon on the left overlapping the battery is the display ribbon.

tls. said:
Best thing to do is reseed the display ribbon. Power off the device, remove back panel, the ribbon on the left overlapping the battery is the display ribbon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is there a good manual on how to open the note? Don’t want to do any damage ?

tls. said:
Best thing to do is reseed the display ribbon. Power off the device, remove back panel, the ribbon on the left overlapping the battery is the display ribbon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is there a good manual on how to open the note? Don’t want to do any damage ?
what I am not sure of , is that it never does it in the bootloading or in recovery.

You can seperate the piece of plastic (backside) from the "silver" frame, or just seperate the silver frame from the main body/display - they are just clips, just be easy. Use a credit card or a tool seperation.
Eliminate the most obvious problem (ribbon cable), if persists maybe an underlying hardware issue. More then likely its just the ribbon cable as the mainboard is not really flush with battery which can lead to the ribbon coming loose.

LMGray said:
is there a good manual on how to open the note? Don’t want to do any damage ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=49595697

I have the exact same problem with my tab it's something that comes and goes I hope it's the ribbon and not GPU. Coz I also rooted my device and wount b able to take it back. If you guys find a solution please let me know.
Will try to reseat the ribbon tonight. Will give feedback tomorrow

No Luck
I opened my tablet last night, remove ribbon then reinserted it but no luck screen still flickers.

TheVirus1 said:
I opened my tablet last night, remove ribbon then reinserted it but no luck screen still flickers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is not good news. I wonder if anyone else has this problem or is there a way that I can send it back to Samsung?

LMGray said:
That is not good news. I wonder if anyone else has this problem or is there a way that I can send it back to Samsung?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My personal opinion I think it's not the LCD but the GPU, because my screen display artifacts like that of a dying PC GPU.

TheVirus1 said:
My personal opinion I think it's not the LCD but the GPU, because my screen display artifacts like that of a dying PC GPU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It that something I can have replaced?

I had the same problem. The display started flickering, then after I switched it off and on again, the display stayed black, although I could still hear incoming notifications. I sent it in for repair. In the repair log, they told me that a cable was replaced. Since I received it back, it has been working without any problems.
The repair was very quick here in Germany. I sent it in on a Monday and received it back the same week on Friday - that's really quick! I could also check the status online.

Its the LCD ribbon cable that is loose and its at bottom of the ribbon cable that need to "tighten up". Can put electric cable over so it wont become loose again.Might need few tries to do it correct.
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I have been getting horizontal artifacts when using hardware acceleration for videos since the 4.4 update myself. I'm thinking the update may have changed clock speeds or something.

dt33 said:
Its the LCD ribbon cable that is loose and its at bottom of the ribbon cable that need to "tighten up". Can put electric cable over so it wont become loose again.Might need few tries to do it correct.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the advice.
It does seem strange that it never happens in the boot animations. Only in android itself.
what is the best way to open the tablet without damage? The back or the front.
Thank you in advance

LMGray said:
Thank you for the advice.
It does seem strange that it never happens in the boot animations. Only in android itself.
what is the best way to open the tablet without damage? The back or the front.
Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It happens again yesterday, after the tab got lights hits/shaking etc.... past months and the screen starts to show symptons of flickering. But this time I didnt wait until it goes total black, since I know what causing the problem.
Just open the backcover with fingernails (or whatever tools needed, like creditcard but fingernails works best and fastest to open with ) and this time I just needed to remove ribbon cable from zif connector and reinsert it again. Then jsut be sure push a little at bottom of the LCD ribbon cable too. The problem went right away. :victory:

dt33 said:
It happens again yesterday, after the tab got lights hits/shaking etc.... past months and the screen starts to show symptons of flickering. But this time I didnt wait until it goes total black, since I know what causing the problem.
Just open the backcover with fingernails (or whatever tools needed, like creditcard but fingernails works best and fastest to open with ) and this time I just needed to remove ribbon cable from zif connector and reinsert it again. Then jsut be sure push a little at bottom of the LCD ribbon cable too. The problem went right away. :victory:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you
I have opened the Tablet and for two days everything is going great. Thank you all for all the help.

Bumper case advice to keep phone's screen attached

http://imgur.com/a/fe2JV
My phone has a screen problem which you can see in the image. The screen is not attached to body. When I push that side of screen with my hand it goes normal, so I think it is a adhesive problem. I need screen to stay steady because back button is hard to press in this condition.
So is there any bumper case which can hold screen attached to body so I can use it without any problem?

If nothing else, this case should hold your phone together. Other cases may work too, though it is difficult to tell if the small lip they have over the screen would be enough.

sevindi said:
http://imgur.com/a/fe2JV
My phone has a screen problem which you can see in the image. The screen is not attached to body. When I push that side of screen with my hand it goes normal, so I think it is a adhesive problem. I need screen to stay steady because back button is hard to press in this condition.
So is there any bumper case which can hold screen attached to body so I can use it without any problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you tried superglue lol

@MehStrongBadMeh
Thanks! I will look intothat case.
@parrotgeek1
I dont really want to open phone. Is there any way to use superglue without removing the screen?

Put the glue on the end of a toothpick then run it along the inside edges of the screen and phone @sevindi

sevindi said:
http://imgur.com/a/fe2JV
My phone has a screen problem which you can see in the image. The screen is not attached to body. When I push that side of screen with my hand it goes normal, so I think it is a adhesive problem. I need screen to stay steady because back button is hard to press in this condition.
So is there any bumper case which can hold screen attached to body so I can use it without any problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dang brother, that looks bad. Very sorry to see this. Can I ask is this the result of dropping the device or this happened on its own? It doesn't look like it has any damage to it, have you tried contacting hTC?
As for cases, I prefer the thinner ones.
The Spigen Thin Fit has treated me very well on my hTC M9, and then now on my hTC 10. They do a good job I think with providing a nice thin product that actually does prevent small dings and what not (my 10 is still brand new looking and has been in this case with no screen protector since release day, but everyone's use is different). Color choice I wish they had black but the gunmetal looks great.

If I may recommend this:
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Send it in with UhOh protection, get a new one

That's pretty bad.. Why haven't you RMA'd your device or at the very least contacted HTC?
As far as I can see from that picture, no clear signs of a drop either so...it should be a clear case of manufacturing defect.

Try tech 21, it has a lip around the phone. Good case too

I have seen a video about "disassembling?" on youtube. They just warmed the display up with some device, in order to reattach it. Maybe you want to have a look at such video to get an idea.
+1 for RMA before it gets wrecked fully.
Especially since i think it has some very nice degree of water resistance and dust resistance, when put together properly. You should let a professional take care of, to get the best result.

revealed said:
I have seen a video about "disassembling?" on youtube. They just warmed the display up with some device, in order to reattach it. Maybe you want to have a look at such video to get an idea.
+1 for RMA before it gets wrecked fully.
Especially since i think it has some very nice degree of water resistance and dust resistance, when put together properly. You should let a professional take care of, to get the best result.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That'll be a heat gun mate, it'll also ruin most the glue sticking it down.. Probably not a good idea to do this yourself, if someone else has changed the screen out then RMA might not be allowed. If it's just gone this way by itself then Yea RMA for sure.

dladz said:
.... Probably not a good idea to do this yourself, ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True words from this angle
I would not hesitate to send it in. I would rather send it to HTC instantly. Probably i would not even ask a forum about such

revealed said:
True words from this angle
I would not hesitate to send it in. I would rather send it to HTC instantly. Probably i would not even ask a forum about such
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thought you called me an angel for a moment there
Definitely send it in mate, if this has happened on it's own it's obviously a terrible defect, more than likely the battery has swollen, or the glue has come away or the phone has bent, or a combination of either.
Either way, not your fault and not a good sign, bearing in mind that this lump is a £600 phone! Not cheap and certainly not something i'd go dabbling with unless it was a last resort.
I stripped down a One X to do a replacement screen swap, ended up snapping a flex, and i'm a careful guy
So if you ask me send it back.

dladz said:
Thought you called me an angel for a moment there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh sorry, this is lack of english skill. I thought in my mother language while translating. I was already told to better stop this. Anyhow, intentionally i wanted to agree on your point of view.
Yeah, better do not void the warranty by manually trying to repair it.

revealed said:
Oh sorry, this is lack of english skill. I thought in my mother language while translating. I was already told to better stop this. Anyhow, intentionally i wanted to agree on your point of view.
Yeah, better do not void the warranty by manually trying to repair it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No you did write the correct word, it was just on first sight i THOUGHT you said something.
Lol it's cool, nevermind.

[HELP] Screen Freak Out When Display Small Line Of Pixel / Vertical

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My screen is working perfectly fine i try to test display all type video work just normal but it just flickering these rainbow / vertical line when i come close to let say smaller pixel like display shot with camera ... or picture with smaller pixel dots....

Have you found a solution? I have the same permanent vertical lines.

Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?

xfim said:
Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, good thought, I will open up the phone and check the connections.

Babakkardan said:
OK, good thought, I will open up the phone and check the connections.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know which one is it, right? The wider one on the bottom. Pry it up (use nails if you wish) and use some alcohol to clean it up.

xfim said:
Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Babakkardan said:
Have you found a solution? I have the same permanent vertical lines.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Abandoned War Place said:
My screen is working perfectly fine i try to test display all type video work just normal but it just flickering these rainbow / vertical line when i come close to let say smaller pixel like display shot with camera ... or picture with smaller pixel dots....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.

jdmst77 said:
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Baking it isnt a good idea. you might damage working things in the process. Usually the RAM chip is the main problem. Check if it is bent a bit on the edges. To test if ram is the problem, put something (aluminum foil, 1mm thermal pad...) on the chip so that it puts pressure on the disconnected areas and reconnects them.

xfim said:
Baking it isnt a good idea. you might damage working things in the process. Usually the RAM chip is the main problem. Check if it is bent a bit on the edges. To test if ram is the problem, put something (aluminum foil, 1mm thermal pad...) on the chip so that it puts pressure on the disconnected areas and reconnects them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sure, it could damage it, but it didn't. For a "completely broken" blue screened device that I purchased for $22.40 off ebay (solely for the display, to fix another device) I had nothing to lose. if it's not done right, anything can happen but I took extra precautions like folded aluminum foil in a sort of accordion like wave pattern so no points are directly sitting on the metal rack. Left ample time for the board to cool before flipping it and before reinserting it into the phone.
Can't argue with the results and people have been baking logic/motherboards for quite some time now just google it and it doesn't hurt to take extra precautions
EDIT: also after removing from the oven, I placed the board between 2 silicone trivets and lightly pressed them together to re-seat any chips/components, on the board

jdmst77 said:
sure, it could damage it, but it didn't. For a "completely broken" blue screened device that I purchased for $22.40 off ebay (solely for the display, to fix another device) I had nothing to lose. if it's not done right, anything can happen but I took extra precautions like folded aluminum foil in a sort of accordion like wave pattern so no points are directly sitting on the metal rack. Left ample time for the board to cool before flipping it and before reinserting it into the phone.
Can't argue with the results and people have been baking logic/motherboards for quite some time now just google it and it doesn't hurt to take extra precautions
EDIT: also after removing from the oven, I placed the board between 2 silicone trivets and lightly pressed them together to re-seat any chips/components, on the board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You did a good job then. Anyway, I would bake the board as a last resort. I'd try a few different things before (heating individual chips)

jdmst77 said:
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Instead if baking the board, how about putting solder paste on the connectors of the cpu & gpu and heating them with a heat gun? Will it give the same result?
---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------
xfim said:
You know which one is it, right? The wider one on the bottom. Pry it up (use nails if you wish) and use some alcohol to clean it up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I'll take it to a repairman and have him diagnose it... then if necessary he can use a heat gun to reset the solders on the cpu & gpu....
Update:
I took the G3 to a repair shop, we reset the connections and did the resoldering of the gpu and cpu. But no change in the display lines. The technician deduces it is a damaged display, especially since there is a lot of heat on the CPU area on the display now.
Any other solutions I can try before changing the display?
thanks.