Alright so by demand and as a newcomer gift to XDA, I will show you how to open up the Acer Iconia A100 tablet and how to replace the crappy microphone they provide with it, this thread is going to have pictures and is going to need a bit of organization skills and some soldering skills , so let's start
Before beginning note: make sure to work on a towel or something soft as the tablet will be upside down, I didn't use one and I got pretty bad scratches on my protector, as you will see in the last picture.
BEFORE BEGINNING NOTE #2 YAY!: I am in no way responsible of any damage to your device, your life, your marriage, your emotions, your cream cheese bagel order at Tim Horton's that wasn't discounted 18 cents, or your cat. So do this at your OWN risk.
Before beginning note #3: This will void your warranty....DUH. But I really don't care about mine because my slogan is "I VOID WARRANTIES "
Things you will need:
1) Set of small philips screwdrivers
2) Soldering iron
3) Solder (optional, not necessary as the mics have solder on them already)
4) Something to pry the plastic open with (I used my nail but you can use a flathead screwdriver...etc)
5) Another microphone you are going to use (preferably from a webcam/ headset, as they need to be the exact size or close to the original one)
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Now let's get to work.
Acer A100, great tablet, crappy battery and crappy mic.
In the next few images, I will pry off the plastic sides of the tablet, don't worry if you feel like they bend, just run your finger across and under the pieces until you hear all the snap ins snap out.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side:
Left side:
Alright, now that all the sides are off, let's get to the screws, there are 5 screws you have to get off, in these pictures you will see where they are.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side(NO SCREWS HERE, CARRY ON)
Left side:
Well now I really don't have to say it cause it's really obvious, grab your screw driver and get to work on these screws, make sure you put them on the side after you take em' out.
NOW FOR THE FUN PART , Really opening it up, get your nail ready, or whatever you're going to use for prying the plastic apart, and start SLOWLY prying the 2 pieces apart, CAREFULLY!
And now, completely take off the back cover (Don't worry, there's nothing connected to it, it's just an antenna)
AND BEHOLD, THE INTERNALS! (and that damned battery.....)
Alright now don't get too excited (I learned this the hard way...), there's a few things you must do first, look around and get familiar where everything is, and DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CONNECTOR!(Warning: as soon as you disconnect the battery, the whole tablet will shut down COMPLETELY, so make sure you save anything you haven't saved like game progress etc...then unplug it)
Now the left side is where the good stuff is at, so ignore everything else and just go to the left side.
Notice there is 3 connectors, the Microphone connector (black), some other connector (white and black), and some other connector (yellow), all of these have to go out, and once they are out there are 2 screws holding that small chip down in place, one black and one silver, these 2 have to go out too.
First connector (white and black), just open the small black tab and pull the flat thing out, should be really easy:
Second connector (yellow), this thing just pulls off the board, just easily lift it up:
and now remove the 2 screws and put them aside:
And now really gently pull the small board out, might need some wiggling around but it'll come out, it will be obstructed because the microphone is still in its place, but just lift the microphone out, it slides right out
So I accidentally deleted the rest of this post and lost all the images, but its pretty straight forward, just desolder the microphone, solder a new one on and pop everything back into place, make sure to put the battery connector on last and close up the tablet.
Enjoy your new microphone and hope this wasn't too long, please use the thanks button if it helped you
Man, As soon as I am able to risk opening up my A100 I so want to do this. Thanks, not only for doing it but for taking the time to take pics and post it all. You Rock!
You're very welcome, I had many more pics assembling it back, but I accidentally deleted them and lost all of it haha
Hey do you think this mic might work out? or do you have a part# for the one you used, or from what model webcam you took it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement...950292?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4ab6c51954
Well I tested 3 mics from 2 webcams and one headset, the headset was the Xbox live one and it sucked crap, and the 2 Logitech webcams were Logitech V-UM14 and V-UBC40, I settled for the one from the ubc40 as it seemed better than the um14.
About the Nokia one, I don't know if it would work as there are no solder points and you gotta take into consideration the size, both my webcams and the headset and the tablet had mics that were really close in size
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk
Nice, ok I'll scour the interwebz to get one. I don't really need it for now... but I know I'll get bored one of these days and I'll give this mod a try. Thanks.
Well if you ever do it, post which mic you use and if it works or not.
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk
great job man! time to find me a mic! whoop!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium
You are very welcome, feel free to tell everyone how it goes with the new mic
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk
Mic Dimensions
Anyone have the Mic dimensions? I'm going to try and order one from Digikey while I perform a screen repair on a friends tablet in the next week or two.
Having the dimensions and what type of connection used will help select the correct one. Is it a surface mount or are wires running to it?
Thanks
THANKS
My daughter dropped hers on the power plug and the power plug was fouled inside. I was worried I would not be able to replace the power adapter and sure enough, after reading your post with picks I realized I could buy the adapter for $15 and replace it myself. Worked like a champ! Again thanks for the picks, it really answered how to take it apart.
My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks
superfaker said:
My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1
pio_masaki said:
Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply !
I bought it in november 2011 so the warranty ended
I opened the a100
I remove the battery connector then pushed the power button several times (5 to 30 seconds)
i reconnect the battery & the powersupply to see if it will charge or power on > Didn't worked
so i was desperate, thinking of destroy the **************** tablet but i reassemble it
i retried to power on with the power button.....blue led on...acer a100 is booting
it's working for now, reset the tablet ....wait n see......
This is very interesting, that you would do this, ive contemplated it but ive sooner used a headset when necessery. I have a phone now though. Im gonna loom into revamping the battery. Now thatd be a mod
Sent from a Soviet base in Indiana
So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris
airbus318 said:
So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I think there are a few screws that hold it down and a plug. So once you open it up it is pretty easy.
Thanks will attempt.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
External Mic
Perhaps a silly question, but how difficult would it be to drill a small hole in the plastic near the microphone and solder wires to the mic location? And what would the max length of wire possible? Just rough guesses, I know it's pretty hard to be specific on stuff like that. Reason is that I have mine installed in my car as a head unit and was curious if I could run wire from the tablet to a mic mounted in the roof/headliner so that I could issue voice commands in a normal volume. I'd post a pic of my install but I don't have enough posts.
What could happen if i disconnect the other connectors first instead of the battery connector?
Related
Okay, the nice people over at PDAHut kindly sent me their new HTC Universal in car mount. I have now had a couple of weeks to really put it to the test so here is my verdict and before you ask, nope, I don't work for them.
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On opening the package I was initially quite impressed. Manufactured in Germany, the finish of the plastic components were of a very good quality, no sharp edges, the texture and colour are a very close match to the Universal from O2 (the Exec). The part that grips the Universal itself is a simple spring design. The back edge has 3 small lips that over hang the device but still allow you to open and close the screen. The front is help by two more clips that are also sprung by flexing the plastic. It holds the device quite snugly and only really showed a problem when holding the Universal vertically in landscape, The weight of the Universal caused to it to creep down, spreading the two front sprung clips and allowing the back three clips to work loose. Saying that it never did fall out, even with the serious speed bumps in our street. The cradle has all the usual cut aways for standby, SD, headphones, reset, mini USB, Phone keys, speakers, volume, camera, voice and backlight keys. Even the IR and camera lens are clear. There is a small sticker fixed to the holder warning the user against opening the screen 180 degrees. I tried it and when I did the screen acted as a lever and forced the back of the Universal out of the holder. Adjustment is via twin axis swivel near the base, both with knurled thumb screws to lock it in place. After this there is a telescopic section that clicks into place as it is extended and retracted. Lastly is a full ball joint allowing you to rotate the device from portrait to landscape, again with a locking thumb screw to secure it in position. The suction base did not come off once in the 2 weeks I have used it and the all the thumb screws stayed tight. They also supplied a sticky back cup if you wanted to fix it to a textured surface.
So, overall, a lovely piece of kit and in my humble opinion well worth the money PDAhut are asking for it!
You can find the product here :-
http://www.pdahut.com/store/product.php?productid=17600
Regards, gooroo[/img]
Hi, I'm looking at getting some sort of mount for my Uni, how do you think this compares with another I was looking at at http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=9714064603&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&rd=1 ??
This one has a built in speaker and mic to enhance the onboard versions, the only downside is that the Uni stays in reverse clam position, you can't close and open normally, but I don't see that of much of a problem...
Would appreciate others opinions, esp if anyone has any of them, or similar....
Just bought one, thanks for the link, it looks great.
I bought one too
Hi, newbie here - just bought one of those units to run the TOM TOM from.
Now I have had a real strange one....
There is a little switch on the side which switches from GPS unit charging to XDA charging, trouble is after about 1/2 hour smoke started to appear from the back of the speaker mounting. Then the charging (red) light went out. I disconnected it all and let it and me cool down.
Anyway I thought the unit must have gone awol so I tried it again later and the red light comes back on but as soon as the XDA goes in the cradle (with it disconnected when I insert it) and then connect it, it still wont charge.
So today I bought a cigar lighter charger for the XDA and tried that and it also didnt charge the XDA - this was for the i-mate in an Orange store. So it looks like I need to visit the O2 shop.
I thought jeez the charging circuit has gone in the XDA, so when I got home I plugged it in to the wall charger and hey presto it worked?!?! So I am somewhat confused unless the Cigar lighter in the car is doing something bizzarre I'm stumped any thoughts?
Cheers
Paul
fatman11111, what one did you get? The one with pics at the top, or the one I linked?
...the one you linked to...i'm going to contact them next week to see what can be done - if you've got one try it out to see if you get the same probs, but stand by with a fire extinguisher!!!!
XDA Exec with latest version software...
Cheers
Paul
also....I dont recall it having a mic either, the LED is red on mine - moot point....when yopu connect the speaker cable to the XDA you cut off the Mic from the phone so you have a mic for incoming calls (bit poor really).
I got mine with Tomtom 5 from website not ebay...
fatman11111 said:
I got mine with Tomtom 5 from website not ebay...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you get it? How much dosh? Cheers matey
I haven't given these guys a right to reply yet - but this was the deal....
http://www.handnav.co.uk/bundles.php?id=983
Hi gooroo,
How about getting the universal in and out of the holder, can you give some detailed info about that please.
This one seems to have it's own mic so you get "proper" hands-free without BT headset.
http://www.gpsforless.co.uk/product_details.php?id=3436&PHPSESSID=170da4d9bfffd65cb09321f0d09c5afc
sipat said:
This one seems to have it's own mic so you get "proper" hands-free without BT headset.
http://www.gpsforless.co.uk/product_details.php?id=3436&PHPSESSID=170da4d9bfffd65cb09321f0d09c5afc
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that's the one that I posted at the top, do you think it's better than the first? I'm in two minds about which one of the two to get... It's got a mic... but don't know if I like the idea of it slotting in, rubbing paintwork, scratching after a while....
Yep I was worried about the same this with the one which has the mic too.
I am actuallt considering the brodit one more so at the moment.
Yep I was worried about the same this with the one which has the mic too.
I am actuallt considering the brodit one more so at the moment.
Yep, it's very simple although takes a little practice to do it with one hand. If you look at the photo's at the top, you simply pull the two sprung catches at the bottom apart and the Universal slips down by about 10mm allowing the top clips to clear the Universal and so allowing you to simply lift it out.
Regards, Simon
returned goods
Sent the old one back today... the guys at Handnav were really responsive thouygh got a mail over the weekend with an RMA form - so I'll see what happens when i get the new one.
FD
@fatman, I assume you are referring to the active mount mentioned elsewhere in this thread and not the passive mount that I reviewed?
It seems people are making a few negative comments regarding a active mount that someone else mentioned. I would like to point out that those comments are not about the passive mount I reviewed, with which I might add I am still well happy with!
Regards, Simon
In car charging
Hi fatman11111,
I have had my XDA Exec for a few months now & have always had a problem with charging in the car, sometimes it would and others it wouldn't.
I even bought another in car charger as I thought it was faulty.
Just today I have found that if I plug my XDA in then power it up it charges. If I switch on first, it doesn't.
:roll:
I didn't want to clog/hijack THIS THREAD but the pin info and idea was very helpful. After waiting and waiting and waiting for official word of a charging dock that utilizes the pogo pins on the side, I've given up hope. And lets face it if you kill the usb port on this thing "you're screwed". so I really wanted to reduce my usb port usage and utilize a feature that comes with the device.
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My material list is 8 screws, 46 gauge guitar string, a strip of 1/2" playwood that happened to be ripped down to 2 1/2" in my garage, usb cable, piece of flat 1/8" thick plastic and a tiny bit of solder. The way that I screwed/bent the piece of guitar string gives the perfect amount of spring so that when the device is set both are compressed and make contact with the side of the device.
This was very spur of the moment and took me a half hour to build. And it works brilliantly. Yes I could have spent more time on design and material type and getting proper pogo pins. But I'm lazy and intent of this thread is spark ideas in other peoples heads. So now this masterpiece lives on my nightstand and I drop my galnex in at night and wake up to a full charge in the morning without having to use the usb port.
**edit** The pic of the lockscreen is in landscape using the Team Kang AOKP rom.
good day.
THIS is what I love to see here. Ingenuity. Looks good to me. I am thinking of putting some docks together here this weekend. One for the nightstand and one for the office.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA App
VERY awesome work. I love some hacked together ingenuity for sure, haha. I've had the car and desktop dock on order from Clove since December but I think I'll be cancelling the orders fairly soon and working up something on my own.
MacGyver would be proud
Terminators run on Android
Very nice!
Love it, nice work. Like you said, you could get some cheap pogo pins off digikey, but I like the character of your design.
Going to have to try this over the weekend. What is the third pin for on the phone?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
Zane_Grey said:
Going to have to try this over the weekend. What is the third pin for on the phone?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a decent, and probably relevant, read speculating on the function of the third pin on the Nexus One: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=631508
I love this, but I got some questions I'd like answered before attempting this.
1.For those of us without guitar string, would a paper clip bent into proper shape work well too?
2. What cable is that, that you were using just a power cord or was that usb?
3. You said it just sits on your night stand so does that mean you cant transfer data to your computer?
Also a video just going over it more or perhaps some more pics of the back there would be nice (at least for me) to see what is screwed around the screw.
jonnyg1097 said:
I love this, but I got some questions I'd like answered before attempting this.
1.For those of us without guitar string, would a paper clip bent into proper shape work well too?
2. What cable is that, that you were using just a power cord or was that usb?
3. You said it just sits on your night stand so does that mean you cant transfer data to your computer?
Also a video just going over it more or perhaps some more pics of the back there would be nice (at least for me) to see what is screwed around the screw.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. no idea, sorry. Check out the pogo pins though.
2. Thats a power cable, a usb would have a wire for data.
3. the pins don't transfer any information (well... the middle one does, but not anything useful to a pc) so transferring stuff would be impossible. (but thats what wifi is for)
This is beautiful and ugly at the same time.
One thing I would recommend is cutting out an area at the bottom of the phone so that you COULD attach a USB, OTG, or MHL cable if need-be. Perhaps that side of the dock could be shaped like a B, or notched to also allow access to the headphone port.
I would also maybe split out the power connection to a microUSB port to power MHL or other accessories. Or maybe just wire up a fullsize female USB to power another unit such as a bluetooth headset or whatever. It just would be nice to have a powered USB port just in case.
To the guy above, sure it may not look perfect but a coat of paint would spruce it up very well.
Overall A+
I might try my hand at something like this. I'm a cheap ass when it comes to buying crap for phones (since I go through them often). I have all the materials already with the exception of spare guitar strings but the paperclip idea sounds great and can be bent to size. I have some Poplar wood in my basement that would even look good with a heavy clear coat.
player911 said:
One thing I would recommend is cutting out an area at the bottom of the phone so that you COULD attach a USB, OTG, or MHL cable if need-be. Perhaps that side of the dock could be shaped like a B, or notched to also allow access to the headphone port.
I would also maybe split out the power connection to a microUSB port to power MHL or other accessories. Or maybe just wire up a fullsize female USB to power another unit such as a bluetooth headset or whatever. It just would be nice to have a powered USB port just in case.
To the guy above, sure it may not look perfect but a coat of paint would spruce it up very well.
Overall A+
I might try my hand at something like this. I'm a cheap ass when it comes to buying crap for phones (since I go through them often). I have all the materials already with the exception of spare guitar strings but the paperclip idea sounds great and can be bent to size. I have some Poplar wood in my basement that would even look good with a heavy clear coat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am thinking of attempting this as well. Except I dont have the wood to spare for this, so I am trying to look for a generic stand on ebay that would be possible to modify to fit at the least the pogo pins and at the most everything you mentioned. Because it would be a MHL adapter built in and ready to go.
Nice Job! Very creative use of guitar strings in lieu of pogo pins! I might have to try something like this...
jonnyg1097 said:
I am thinking of attempting this as well. Except I dont have the wood to spare for this, so I am trying to look for a generic stand on ebay that would be possible to modify to fit at the least the pogo pins and at the most everything you mentioned. Because it would be a MHL adapter built in and ready to go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm looking for something generic too, something that came to my mind was some kind of business card holder. Just a thought I'd throw out there.
chuckdz3 said:
I'm looking for something generic too, something that came to my mind was some kind of business card holder. Just a thought I'd throw out there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make it out of Lego blocks! Dunno how you would keep the pins in place though..
4Pr3mier said:
Make it out of Lego blocks! Dunno how you would keep the pins in place though..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DUCT TAPE! (j/k) Gorrilla glue/super glue will work if you drill a small enough of a hole.
Or even some kind of poxy to hold it there. I might have to run to the Lego Store at the Mall of America to go buy me some Legos to build me a stand!
Munchys said:
DUCT TAPE! (j/k) Gorrilla glue/super glue will work if you drill a small enough of a hole.
Or even some kind of poxy to hold it there. I might have to run to the Lego Store at the Mall of America to go buy me some Legos to build me a stand!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol! Soo tempting to make a duct tape stand HA! I so totally need to restring my guitar and I already have some new strings.... (yells at wife) HONEY WHERE'S THE DUCT TAPE!!
For those looking for generic stands, I saw some on ebay that were just acrylic kinda in an "S" shape sort of deal that looked like could hold the nexus fully and was pretty modifiable.
Although than running a particular rom, has anyone found a way to get the GNex in to landscape mode while on a dock? I did a quick search and didn't find anything. On my D1 I used a magnet placed in a particular spot to force it into dock mode.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA App
So my Epic 4g touch has a fried microphone.
I am not new on opening up phones, replacing flex cables, or lcd screens etc because it is very simple. But now this requires soldering and all that from the motherboard.
That is what I need help with, I do not just want to jump on it right away... I do not even know where the microphone is honestly.
Also to kill two birds with one stone, I need to do the same for the USB Port.
Why not just buy a epic touch with a broken LCD and make one phone out of two. Ribbon cables are one thing but soldering a tiny phone.. I have some experience soldering but I would have to feel pretty brave to do it on a phone.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda app-developers app
brooksyx said:
Why not just buy a epic touch with a broken LCD and make one phone out of two. Ribbon cables are one thing but soldering a tiny phone.. I have some experience soldering but I would have to feel pretty brave to do it on a phone.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought about that too but these prices are ridiculous. Literally a destroyed phone which looked like someone torched it with a flamethrower on ebay went up to $120. The seller claimed nothing could be tested and had bad ESN.
I'm not good at gambling.
Sent from my ADR6300 using xda app-developers app
Good news is I found the microphone. It's on the bottom on the back side of the motherboard... And it's really really tiny
Sent from my ADR6300 using xda app-developers app
eljean said:
Good news is I found the microphone. It's on the bottom on the back side of the motherboard... And it's really really tiny
Sent from my ADR6300 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
im too lazy to take mine apart to look at the motherboard right now, however looking at the pictures of the motherboard on ifixit it looks like there are only two traces running to it, and its surface mount...not sure how you would go about lifting it, as i'm assuming the amount of heat required to do so, even using a proper re-flow station (dont think a heatgun will work for this one! its a little smaller than an xbox 360 mainboard!) would negativity affect/destroy the microphone itself...furthermore I'm not at all sure how you would go about sourcing a replacement microphone... I can't imagine Samsung would be able to send you one... now that I mention samsung though, these things have a one year warranty, you may want to contact them and ask about getting it serviced from them... I know some people with emmc bricks have had success with getting repair work done directly by samsung.
the usb port is easier though, de-solder the 4 posts holding it in place, and then very carefully using your iron and something like an xacto knife very carefully lift the pins connecting it to the motherboard... scavenge a similar one from a suitable donor device, solder the posts into place and then just use your iron lightly to push the pins back into the solder left on the pads... I've not done a micro usb before but have successfully replaced several hdmi ports using this method, same thing, only smaller with fewer pins... good luck with it...
cp320703 said:
im too lazy to take mine apart to look at the motherboard right now, however looking at the pictures of the motherboard on ifixit it looks like there are only two traces running to it, and its surface mount...not sure how you would go about lifting it, as i'm assuming the amount of heat required to do so, even using a proper re-flow station (dont think a heatgun will work for this one! its a little smaller than an xbox 360 mainboard!) would negativity affect/destroy the microphone itself...furthermore I'm not at all sure how you would go about sourcing a replacement microphone... I can't imagine Samsung would be able to send you one... now that I mention samsung though, these things have a one year warranty, you may want to contact them and ask about getting it serviced from them... I know some people with emmc bricks have had success with getting repair work done directly by samsung.
the usb port is easier though, de-solder the 4 posts holding it in place, and then very carefully using your iron and something like an xacto knife very carefully lift the pins connecting it to the motherboard... scavenge a similar one from a suitable donor device, solder the posts into place and then just use your iron lightly to push the pins back into the solder left on the pads... I've not done a micro usb before but have successfully replaced several hdmi ports using this method, same thing, only smaller with fewer pins... good luck with it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tip!
Unfortunately I have no insurance, but the way I see it is that if these guys can do it http://cellphone-repair-shop.com/samsung-microphone/ then I should be able to do it. (I really wanna do it as well not only to just fix it but to also learn something new if you understand). Also, I can use the same microphone from an AT&T Captivate which I found for $9.99 on ebay. Tomorrow I will post a picture of the motherboard and the location of the microphone.
newalker91 said:
In order to do it you'll need to use a precision heat gun to warm up the microphone, then use something like a razor blade to pop it off of the board. Regular soldering irons aren't used for this type of placement, you'll have to cold solder it in place making sure to get a good solder joint around the edge to keep it lined up perfectly with the contact points on the board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. So you're telling me I can't use de-soldering wire...
Then wouldn't it be the same to heat up the razor and pop it up? Sounds barbaric but that was the first thing that popped in my head after I read your post.
And since the mic hardly has any electricity that runs through it and is so tiny would it be better to use that carbon based electrical glue?
Sent from my ADR6300 using xda app-developers app
eljean said:
Thanks for the tip!
Unfortunately I have no insurance, but the way I see it is that if these guys can do it http://cellphone-repair-shop.com/samsung-microphone/ then I should be able to do it. (I really wanna do it as well not only to just fix it but to also learn something new if you understand). Also, I can use the same microphone from an AT&T Captivate which I found for $9.99 on ebay. Tomorrow I will post a picture of the motherboard and the location of the microphone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh I totally understand why you would want to do it yourself, I had thoughts on how to do it because I do the same sort of stuff whenever possible... I think the guy that posted afterme/you had some really good thoughts as well, only thing I wanted to add is that I was not referring to any sort of insurance, but to the 1 year Samsung manufactures warranty on the parts
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda app-developers app
Pictures
Yeah I have no type of insurance at all. My phone is going for two years now...
Nevertheless here are the pictures of the microphone and motherboard
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The one circled in blue is the earpiece sound receiver I assume since it is connected to the earpiece or could be a secondary mic for the camcorder although this phone is not known to have two mics. Regardless of the fact, it remains irrelevant just wanted to point it out
The one circled red I am sure is the microphone since it is located right on the bottom where the mic hole on the phone housing is on.
As you can see it is pretty tiny. Any ideas?
Phone motherboard fixture for phone PCB repair
Relax finally, busy work recently, i saw the above comment,most of them are not a professional phone repair man, of course ,i have no other means, i just want t share a magic product with you guys, it is really a nice product.
I purchased the goods from a china team, they have shop in amazon, aliexpress, and their own WEB, but i choose the amazon, i guess you know this why.
It can support 5-8p. if you want to know more about this, you can contact me.
After enjoying my bravo for about 2 years. I had started facing the issue of volume down button not responsive. I had to press the volume button real hard to make it work. I was sure it is the hardware issue. I opened the HTC desire and found out that, the volume button assembly is part of the flex cable and can't be replaced in it's own.
Below is the step by step how to fix it. It worked flawlessly for me but do it at your own risk. I am not responsible for any type of consequences.
1. Remove the 4 corner screws
2. Remove the middle 2 screws.
3. take out the plate just above the mini USB socket, slowly pull it out from the top, slightly pushing it downwards.
4. take out the battery, sim card, memory card
5. remove the inner cover by pulling it out and slightly adjusting the side locks. (you can see the youtube videos on how to dismantle)
6. there is a metal piece just behind the volume buttons, pull it out slowly with the tweezers. hold it only on the metal portion, not the rubbuer.
7. once it comes out, you find two holes in the rubber on the button side. with tweezer tip, pour some petrol in the holes. I did this 3 to 4 times. now press the button around 10 to 15 times to make sure the petrol reaches below the button.
If you are lucky, you are done now.
My buttons are as good as new.
Hope it helps someone. Hit the thanks button if it helped you.
dude... Your the best. Thanks for posting. I had the same problem with both up and down wolume keys for more than a year. I took it yesterday to a service where they told me it will cost 25$. Than I said let's Google a bit... And I found your post. One little change, I didn't had any petrol but it also worked with ethil alcohol too. U saved me those money. How can I get U a beer?
Yup, worked for me too. I used rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip to help drip it there, pushed the buttons while they were wet in alcohol and voila! I even went a step forward and removed the motherboard to clean the rubber microphone shoe, phone call quality improved a lot!
picture
Hi, did you toke some pictures of the process? thanks
Thanks so much! It worked straight away...
I used this video for support: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXZqIjtFoAU
(no need to remove vibrator and all that... just go straight to the point as indicated in OP)
thanks thanks thanks again !!! really... you saved my arm (after 2 years pushing like crazy on the damn down button, I thought I'd buy the damn screwdriver & give it a try... so worth it!)
a bit simpler process
santos605 said:
Hi, did you toke some pictures of the process? thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the post and detailed steps.
It worked for me also - but I think, it can be done even simpler (less steps)
1. take out the battery cover
2. peel out the black/white label (covering the volume cable)
3. take out carefully the end of cable with button bar (see the picture)
4. clean the buttons (metal circle with the hole in the middle, there are two of these at the both ends)
5. you can try the buttons without assembling the phone.
If yes, you are almost done - just reverse the steps above. If not, try to put more petrol / alcohol...
good luck.
pujdo
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I saw this thread a while ago but I didn't had the problem with the volume button until a few weeks ago. I used a syringe with alcohol and I injected it into the holes, it was really easy to fix!!. I also found that the GPS antenna was disconnected I didn't noticed since I don't use that function but now the GPS is working fine. I think it was worth the dissasembly of my phone :good: :good:
Incredible!
For 2 years I've been struggling with my volume down button and then I noticed this post the other day and bookmarked it.
This morning I stripped the phone down and tried this using surgical spirit (all I had) and it worked!
Thanks for the advice it really is appreciated :highfive:
worked, and quite easily, thank you!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for this tip. I've been considering getting a new phone, due to the volume up button not working, but I followed this guide (substituting petrol for surgical spirit) and it worked like a charm!
It's probably worth mentioning you need a T5 torx and PH00 phillips screwdriver (had to go and buy those tiny... tiny things) but well worth it for the fix!
phone not starting now
i choosed the easy way. cleaned the buttons with alcohool (and a que tip). i got a lot of dirt off. i forgot to put the sticker back. i put the battery in.
i pressed the power button.
the phone never opened. all i had was a 4 vibrating. and then nothing. the phone is dead. i put it on usb cable (in pc), and i see the installing new device thing. but the phone was closed. no led lighting up, no screen lighting up.
l.e.
i got only 3 vibrates and the red led flickering up (on the ear speaker).
ill try a new battery (this one was half full)
put new battery (an old one). phone is starting...
WELL GUYS, YOU JUST MADE MY ****IN DAY!
PHONE WORKS, VOLUME BUTTONS WORKS!
WHERE THE HELL I SEND YOU SOME BEER?
btw, today i also removed dirt from the charging jack... a lot of it, so much that the cable didnt stay in...
thanx a lot guys!
Thank you so much, works abselutely perfect for me
Thanks!
Thanks a bunch! :good: :highfive:
Thought my buttons were done for (still felt them ' clicking' and only Volume up was partially working). Could no longer get into the recovery on boot up, which could have become been a problem.
Tried this last night with some sewing oil on my Bravo and it works perfectly now!
Had the same problem. Put some Vodka on it, works like new. Thanks guys.
thank you dudes^^
eezy fix as pujdo described, no need to disassemble the phone @ all. (at least 4 me...)
hav a nice one, cheers
scienty said:
6. there is a metal piece just behind the volume buttons, pull it out slowly with the tweezers. hold it only on the metal portion, not the rubbuer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright, i followed instructions, but something unpredictable happened, this
black plastic connection broke away from buttons , as you seen in pictures.
So volume UP/DOWN buttons are now not connected with the rest of flat black plastic part......
Is this black plastic actually "wire" for volume buttons? if it is, i killed my HTC Desire(bravo)
Any help is appreciated.
DONE! (kinda, still waiting on my magnets)
Behold, wireless charging in your car! No more tacky wires(well, in a way), no weird looking dock.
Items Needed for this exact project
Lexus IS300, any year, without navigation
Nexus 5 (or pretty much any other QI enabled device)
Soldering iron
Qi Charger
Lots of patience, 30 minutes to an hour of time
Small amount of soldering skills (just 2 soldering points)
A power source behind the "scenes" (panels), in this case, a GROM Audio device with a 5V output USB (female)
Micro USB cable that you are fine with leaving in the car
I think that's it.
Now, here's how I did it.
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This is a wireless charger($11 cheap one off eBay, they have tons on there, output is 1A), torn down to its bare essentials. No more plastic. With the help of a soldering iron, I desoldered the plugs from the charging area to the middle piece that has the light to fit into...
This!
Well this, my Center console vent that is in my IS (No navi )
Top View.
Bottom Views, last one with the cable plugged in.
Now, it is installed! Notice that the panel fits on top without any modifying to the panels, except for the actual charger itself.
Now how does it power up you ask?
With the help of my Grom audio device (which also gives me aux on my stock Lexus Stereo.) I left the USB plug in access in the glove compartment, just incase anything bad happens, or to not waste energy on the charger when I don't need it. Trying to figure out how to make my glove compartment less messy, but so far this is the best that I can do.
Note, no video. I will have that posted sometime, I just recorded it off an iPhone, so I will need to edit it so you get the full effect. Or not, I will probably just upload it, it will just take a few days.
Now, I want someone to do this, but even better than I did! Anything is possible!
Best of luck m8! That does sound amazing
Make sure the magnets are strong, otherwise a simple speed bump will toss away your nexus
You could try some HDD Neodymium magnets taken out of a HDD.
daniel_loft said:
You could try some HDD Neodymium magnets taken out of a HDD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turns out the magnets I ordered are Neodymium, so I shall see how it works in a few days.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app
Bumping because it is pretty much finished.
iLikeTurtuls said:
DONE! (kinda, still waiting on my magnets)
Behold, wireless charging in your car! No more tacky wires(well, in a way), no weird looking dock.
Items Needed for this exact project
Lexus IS300, any year, without navigation
Nexus 5 (or pretty much any other QI enabled device)
Soldering iron
Qi Charger
Lots of patience, 30 minutes to an hour of time
Small amount of soldering skills (just 2 soldering points)
A power source behind the "scenes" (panels), in this case, a GROM Audio device with a 5V output USB (female)
Micro USB cable that you are fine with leaving in the car
I think that's it.
Now, here's how I did it.
This is a wireless charger($11 cheap one off eBay, they have tons on there, output is 1A), torn down to its bare essentials. No more plastic. With the help of a soldering iron, I desoldered the plugs from the charging area to the middle piece that has the light to fit into...
This!
Well this, my Center console vent that is in my IS (No navi )
Top View.
Bottom Views, last one with the cable plugged in.
Now, it is installed! Notice that the panel fits on top without any modifying to the panels, except for the actual charger itself.
Now how does it power up you ask?
With the help of my Grom audio device (which also gives me aux on my stock Lexus Stereo.) I left the USB plug in access in the glove compartment, just incase anything bad happens, or to not waste energy on the charger when I don't need it. Trying to figure out how to make my glove compartment less messy, but so far this is the best that I can do.
Note, no video. I will have that posted sometime, I just recorded it off an iPhone, so I will need to edit it so you get the full effect. Or not, I will probably just upload it, it will just take a few days.
Now, I want someone to do this, but even better than I did! Anything is possible!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pircture links are broken. Try imgur album.
Update on pics please
Andrew149 said:
Update on pics please
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I have some info to offer that may help people with this project. I did the same in the center console of my Miata, and here's a few things that may help people. First my setup.
Qi charger laying flat in center console, foam around the edges to keep the phone from moving (with a hole in the foam at the bottom, this is important). Immediately behind it I installed a fan because the phone would otherwise overheat because: I'm also running appradio unchained to an appradio head unit AND using a netgear push2tv for wireless display to the head unit.
This is a very nice setup, with a few flaws and considerations:
1. Phone likes to get hot and either barely charge or just maintain charge: the fan certainly helps, but also the phone being in a closed space with very low auto brightness helps keep this manageable
2. Must QI chargers will not accept straight vehicle voltage. My energizer pad would stop working as the voltage varied up to 14.3v when the car was running. As a result I added a simple few dollar voltage regulator inline to keep the voltage as close to 12v as possible. I should have tried to add in a delay as well since sometimes restarting tthe car will cause a momentary voltage drop big enough to confuse the charger, but it won't restart after the car does, leaving it flashing at me in error. This can also be solved by just going straight from off to start, and it doesn't happen all the time, so I'm dealing with it till I open it back up again.
Hope this helps someone
thepoetlives89 said:
Pircture links are broken. Try imgur album.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fixed, thank you for the idea.
compuw22c said:
Qi charger laying flat in center console, foam around the edges to keep the phone from moving (with a hole in the foam at the bottom, this is important). Immediately behind it I installed a fan because the phone would otherwise overheat because: I'm also running appradio unchained to an appradio head unit AND using a netgear push2tv for wireless display to the head unit.
This is a very nice setup, with a few flaws and considerations:
1. Phone likes to get hot and either barely charge or just maintain charge: the fan certainly helps, but also the phone being in a closed space with very low auto brightness helps keep this manageable
2. Must QI chargers will not accept straight vehicle voltage. My energizer pad would stop working as the voltage varied up to 14.3v when the car was running. As a result I added a simple few dollar voltage regulator inline to keep the voltage as close to 12v as possible. I should have tried to add in a delay as well since sometimes restarting tthe car will cause a momentary voltage drop big enough to confuse the charger, but it won't restart after the car does, leaving it flashing at me in error. This can also be solved by just going straight from off to start, and it doesn't happen all the time, so I'm dealing with it till I open it back up again.
Hope this helps someone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable that I bought from grom audio outputs 5v (does not list the Amps.) Knowing a little bit of info about car chargers and how it pretty much rushes the power to the device before calming down after a second or 2, I made sure the USB is accessible in the glove compartment, as shown in picture 10. The wiring is a little messy, but I barely had time to install the unit.
Regarding the heat, I have an iPhone that I used for music (it was cheaper for me to buy it than buying an iPod), and a stock stereo so I don't have to worry about the heat too much, but being on the dash will definitely heat it up, along with the charging itself, especially during the heat. I'll most likely be using it at night, or on long trips, mainly because I have not got magnets to hold it down. I tried the hard drive magnets, however the ones I received were too small (the said 1x3, so I assume CM but it was MM.) I have a dead hard drive, which I might use for the magnets. I am looking for a magnet thats like the size of a quarter and 1mm thin, so pretty much a magnet quarter or penny hahah. If the magnet from my HDD don't work, then back to eBay again!