After enjoying my bravo for about 2 years. I had started facing the issue of volume down button not responsive. I had to press the volume button real hard to make it work. I was sure it is the hardware issue. I opened the HTC desire and found out that, the volume button assembly is part of the flex cable and can't be replaced in it's own.
Below is the step by step how to fix it. It worked flawlessly for me but do it at your own risk. I am not responsible for any type of consequences.
1. Remove the 4 corner screws
2. Remove the middle 2 screws.
3. take out the plate just above the mini USB socket, slowly pull it out from the top, slightly pushing it downwards.
4. take out the battery, sim card, memory card
5. remove the inner cover by pulling it out and slightly adjusting the side locks. (you can see the youtube videos on how to dismantle)
6. there is a metal piece just behind the volume buttons, pull it out slowly with the tweezers. hold it only on the metal portion, not the rubbuer.
7. once it comes out, you find two holes in the rubber on the button side. with tweezer tip, pour some petrol in the holes. I did this 3 to 4 times. now press the button around 10 to 15 times to make sure the petrol reaches below the button.
If you are lucky, you are done now.
My buttons are as good as new.
Hope it helps someone. Hit the thanks button if it helped you.
dude... Your the best. Thanks for posting. I had the same problem with both up and down wolume keys for more than a year. I took it yesterday to a service where they told me it will cost 25$. Than I said let's Google a bit... And I found your post. One little change, I didn't had any petrol but it also worked with ethil alcohol too. U saved me those money. How can I get U a beer?
Yup, worked for me too. I used rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip to help drip it there, pushed the buttons while they were wet in alcohol and voila! I even went a step forward and removed the motherboard to clean the rubber microphone shoe, phone call quality improved a lot!
picture
Hi, did you toke some pictures of the process? thanks
Thanks so much! It worked straight away...
I used this video for support: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXZqIjtFoAU
(no need to remove vibrator and all that... just go straight to the point as indicated in OP)
thanks thanks thanks again !!! really... you saved my arm (after 2 years pushing like crazy on the damn down button, I thought I'd buy the damn screwdriver & give it a try... so worth it!)
a bit simpler process
santos605 said:
Hi, did you toke some pictures of the process? thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the post and detailed steps.
It worked for me also - but I think, it can be done even simpler (less steps)
1. take out the battery cover
2. peel out the black/white label (covering the volume cable)
3. take out carefully the end of cable with button bar (see the picture)
4. clean the buttons (metal circle with the hole in the middle, there are two of these at the both ends)
5. you can try the buttons without assembling the phone.
If yes, you are almost done - just reverse the steps above. If not, try to put more petrol / alcohol...
good luck.
pujdo
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I saw this thread a while ago but I didn't had the problem with the volume button until a few weeks ago. I used a syringe with alcohol and I injected it into the holes, it was really easy to fix!!. I also found that the GPS antenna was disconnected I didn't noticed since I don't use that function but now the GPS is working fine. I think it was worth the dissasembly of my phone :good: :good:
Incredible!
For 2 years I've been struggling with my volume down button and then I noticed this post the other day and bookmarked it.
This morning I stripped the phone down and tried this using surgical spirit (all I had) and it worked!
Thanks for the advice it really is appreciated :highfive:
worked, and quite easily, thank you!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for this tip. I've been considering getting a new phone, due to the volume up button not working, but I followed this guide (substituting petrol for surgical spirit) and it worked like a charm!
It's probably worth mentioning you need a T5 torx and PH00 phillips screwdriver (had to go and buy those tiny... tiny things) but well worth it for the fix!
phone not starting now
i choosed the easy way. cleaned the buttons with alcohool (and a que tip). i got a lot of dirt off. i forgot to put the sticker back. i put the battery in.
i pressed the power button.
the phone never opened. all i had was a 4 vibrating. and then nothing. the phone is dead. i put it on usb cable (in pc), and i see the installing new device thing. but the phone was closed. no led lighting up, no screen lighting up.
l.e.
i got only 3 vibrates and the red led flickering up (on the ear speaker).
ill try a new battery (this one was half full)
put new battery (an old one). phone is starting...
WELL GUYS, YOU JUST MADE MY ****IN DAY!
PHONE WORKS, VOLUME BUTTONS WORKS!
WHERE THE HELL I SEND YOU SOME BEER?
btw, today i also removed dirt from the charging jack... a lot of it, so much that the cable didnt stay in...
thanx a lot guys!
Thank you so much, works abselutely perfect for me
Thanks!
Thanks a bunch! :good: :highfive:
Thought my buttons were done for (still felt them ' clicking' and only Volume up was partially working). Could no longer get into the recovery on boot up, which could have become been a problem.
Tried this last night with some sewing oil on my Bravo and it works perfectly now!
Had the same problem. Put some Vodka on it, works like new. Thanks guys.
thank you dudes^^
eezy fix as pujdo described, no need to disassemble the phone @ all. (at least 4 me...)
hav a nice one, cheers
scienty said:
6. there is a metal piece just behind the volume buttons, pull it out slowly with the tweezers. hold it only on the metal portion, not the rubbuer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Alright, i followed instructions, but something unpredictable happened, this
black plastic connection broke away from buttons , as you seen in pictures.
So volume UP/DOWN buttons are now not connected with the rest of flat black plastic part......
Is this black plastic actually "wire" for volume buttons? if it is, i killed my HTC Desire(bravo)
Any help is appreciated.
Related
This is the battery cover of my x1 !!
That hole is so pratical!
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Reset mod
What did you use for the donut to fill the hole you drilled out? Nice idea. Will save the battery cover clips.
BTW, are you having to reset that much?
please post dimesion specifics.
i my self had to take the battery cover several times and each time i do, i worry about the plastic on the side of the phone wearing or getting groved out. especially when several people had already complained about battery cover not staying on. i my self had no problems so far.
i think the hole is usefull especially if your trying out new untested software which tends to lock up the system. it seems that my phone mostly locks up when i cant get a good solid wi-fi connection (im way to far from the signal). i had it lock up on my several times when trying to update on the panel screen and several occasion when playing with my gps at home. ive read that the gps locking up could be caused by a bad download of the quickgps file.
I use the PHM Soft Reset - 1 click soft reset utility found here http://www.modaco.com/content/xperi...4005/pauls-must-have-free-xperia-x1-software/
Just another thought, how different is a soft-reset from turning the phone off and back on. Is it the same thing?
i havent tried a software reset but some times when my phone locks up, no buttons will work or no programs can run and so i think a software reset will not work unless the battery is taken out or the reset button pressed.
Aleemz said:
I use the PHM Soft Reset - 1 click soft reset utility found here http://www.modaco.com/content/xperi...4005/pauls-must-have-free-xperia-x1-software/
Just another thought, how different is a soft-reset from turning the phone off and back on. Is it the same thing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When windows mobile crashes you can't run a software utility to reset the phone.
Ok, the hole isn't nice to see, but it's very useful.
put a small piece of paper soaked with ink in the reset button hole. Then close the battery cover. Open the battery cover and you can see the exact point to drill.
You must use a mini-drill, like dremel
Anyway that's not an easy thing to do.
Think about it carefully before proceeding
i gave that inspiration weeks ago.
thanks for your pictures. but the hole is very big.
a one millimeter hole would look better. but then the stylus is not usable to reset
looks not great.
but a new battery cover isn`t expensive )
next time drill an 1 mm hole and use a needle/paper clip to press resetbutton
since i had gotten my x1a on 29 nov, i would say i had to do a reset of my phone a total of 5 times. i finally did this mod after tomtom 7 locked up on me and so when i had to remove that back cover i drilled out a small hole. got to say that the hole turned out great. you can almost say it could of been put there by the factory.
here is couple tips and info:
measure, measure, measure and re-measure.
check, double check, and triple check the position.
tape the back cover (i taped the back side of where the drill was going to come out thru the cover).
use a new sharp bit and start off with the smallest bit.
try and put a small little dent so the bit doesnt walk off (i used a scribe to put to mark my spot and place a small dent in it).
take your time, dont press hard where you will make a dent on the other side of it. it will take a while to drill because i think the back cover is made of stainless steel (that was kind of a shock to me cause i thought it was made of aluminum).
now i dont have to worry about damaging anything or wearing out a grove in the side of the where phone cover grabs on to.
not of the faint heart to do this mod if your still babying your phone.
(Looks good. There is no German in this thread)
Guys, I'm a man that is going to buy an X1 Xperia. From your interesting conversation, it seems that X1 puts its reset button inside the battery cover? So we can't press the reset button from outside of the phone?
That's a bad design.
yeah bad design. there is a way to do a software hard reset but most of the time when the phone locks up, none of the buttons work.
*****WARNING*****
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY DO TO YOUR EXCALIBUR
PLEASE USE PRECAUTION AGAINST STATIC CHARGE
*****WARNING*****
ok after more than an hour of taking pictures and editing im finally ready to upload them and be done with this. geeze you cooks must have some patience! my hats off to ya...so here we go...hope this helps atleast one person out there to make it worth my time.
ok to start we are going to need a t6 screwdriver, a prying tool a percision phillips screwdriver. (I ADVISE YOU USE A ANTI-STATIC WRISTBAND TOO)
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so flip your dash over, remove the battery cover, take the battery out, and set off to the side. locate the rubber pieces from the picture below and remove them with your prying tool.
this next part is VERY important. note the void sticker over the top of the right screw. by opening your case you void any warrenty that may be active. just use you t6 to remove both of the screw (note they are silver)
now we only have four more screws to remove to get the back panel off, they are circled in red below, use your t6 again here. these screws are black
with all the screws out of the back panel you now need to take your prying tool and put in between the back panel and the chrome piece on the dash, if this is your first time it will be tight. dont be afraid to use a little force. (on the real tight spots is where it latches, that where you need to pry)
now comes the part i found a little different between my two dash's. the one made in china is the one i used in this guide (i have included a picture of the other one to show the differences). go ahead and remove the back panel. on my china dash the wire to the battery thing was NOT connected to the back panel and on my other dash it WAS connected to the back panel.
i didnt circle it but in the second picture you can see a wire going to the back panel and in the first picture you dont see that. in the next step you can see it nice and snug under the connector.
now locate the connection from the picture below and lift it out of the socket. easy to do just use your nail on the end and lift up.
the circled red connector below holds that cabel on, just use your nails and lift straight up on this and set it off to the side. i sat it in the spot on the back panel that it was on with my other dash
with thoes done we move on to the next spot, with again is circled in red below. use your prying tool, as pictured, to open the latch up.
here i used my nails and removed the "cable" by using the two tiny tabs on the side
the next thing we need to disconnect is below. again use your prying tool to open the latch like you did before.
once you have it open use remove the "cable" by using the circled tab
now the we almost have the mobo off. soo use the t6 to remove the screw, this is also a silver screw but, as noted, their is a difference in size.
the last thing holding the mobo on is two clips, and guess what? their pictured below...
\
i just used my nail to hold one back a little and lifted the mobo out and set it aside. ( the picture shows the "front" of it)
the antenna just lifts off, but you dont need to remove it
and this is what you should see now
were now ready to remove that chrome piece, note that the two circled "cables" go THROUGH the chrome piece.
i used the prying tool to remove the chrome piece, it came off really easy. hopefully it does the same for you
and heres a picture showing the "cables" that go through the chrome piece
set the chrome piece off to the side, and were almost done here
now its time to remove that lcd, which is so easly broken for most people. see the circled peice on the back? that grounds it out, just peel it off. and remove the lcd. i just put my hand over it and flipped the phone over. it came right out and i set it off to the side
now we can see the finish line
their are 3 screws to remove to get the keyboard pcb board off. use a percision phillips screwdriver (the one pictured in my first post is just a small phillips, it worked just fine)
set it off to the side and the keypads will just fall out if you turn the phone over
and thats it. i did not include how to remove the jogger bar, i have not done soo, no need to. if you do please take pictures to add to the guide.
please let me know what you think. i have included all the pictures in a zip file, they are a little better quality.
Thanks xDD
Now, when I find the new housing I want, I can finally do it.
phuKKah said:
Thanks xDD
Now, when I find the new housing I want, I can finally do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what kind of housing are you looking for? just the tmobile housing or htc housing?
Good post!! Just hope I never have to reference it
Very helpful post
Can you do it in reverse too please JK
stylez said:
Very helpful post
Can you do it in reverse too please JK
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its simple all you need is a hammer....lol
i figured someone would say it. hehe
skaroger867 said:
what kind of housing are you looking for? just the tmobile housing or htc housing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm actually looking for a translucent housing, kinda like what I used to do to my original Xbox.
phuKKah said:
I'm actually looking for a translucent housing, kinda like what I used to do to my original Xbox.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats right, i remember a thread on that a little while ago. if you ever find it let me know, id love to have that too. maybe a translucent black or blue one.
i just wanna remove the damn t mobile logo but dont know how to do so without scatching the case. as you can see in the first post, where i scratched it removing the logo lol
WOOOW, awesome man, this is 1 a hell of job
this should be stickied.
Great job , I'm sure this will be very handy for some people that will need to fix their phone's screen or anything else for that matter. Great post.
Please sticky
Amazing job you done here!
Hope can be sticky soon
Cheers,
thanks soo much
really thanks for a guide like this
wow thanks
now i can clean my phone
ssj3g0ku said:
wow thanks
now i can clean my phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yea i found all kinds of dust around the edges of mine, but then again i do work in a factory
Thank you !
Thanks a million for this.
Just completed replacement of LCD on two S620's I had given up for dead.
Now to look for the latest ROMs to play with ...
Sticky. 99.999% chance ill need this in the future.
thanx for the wisdom!!
peace!
I did a hard reset, and am stuck at the screen alignment. I installed Remote Screen Alignment, but it appears not to have a setting for the Epix. Also, when I run it, I get an error trying to configure the remote device.
I am wondering if I need to create a .dat file for the Epix. Does anyone know the Epix calibration settings, or some other work around for beign stuck on this screen?
Thanks!
Sorry you didn't get any response faster.
I had the same problem.
I too asked for the dat and others presets.
Guess what if those didn't work the problem is the touch screen digitizer. No way around it, you have to replace it.
It is cheap on ebay $15-19 shipped. I just finished putting it on.
Caution on taking the phone apart. It's not that easy to do so.
Do you have any tips for taking the phone apart?
My digitizer is crazy and I can't get the screen to allign. I'm ready to replace it, but a little weary about taking the phone apart so far.
andy7079 said:
Do you have any tips for taking the phone apart?
My digitizer is crazy and I can't get the screen to allign. I'm ready to replace it, but a little weary about taking the phone apart so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is no resource whatsoever on how to take the phone apart.
I just did it cold turkey. You just can't be afraid.
I took apart an i607 Blackjack before using instructional videos. I think this was a bit easier. Similar and easier.
I did not even refer to those videos again, I just went at it like no ones business. If your scared then you will probably mess up.
You obviously remove the battery tray, battery and sim card
Remove the stylus
Remove the rubber cover nub on the upper left side.
Unscrew all the visible screws. IIRC there are 3 on each side. This is probably one of the tough parts, because each screw looks to have been applied with some loctite material. You really need a proper screw driver. Philips head, but really small. You will see it. If you start stripping the screw, or strip it. START TO GET WORRIED. Because I don't know how you will get it out then. So after you removed all the screws. Do not expect the phone to come off easily.. IT WONT, its like it is still together.
You will need to use some FORCE to pry a small portion of the phone open, and when I say small I mean small because they are clipped together tight.
If you bought the digitizer from EBAY it comes with this
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That included screw driver is a torx head which is no use to you. But that yello tool is what you need to use to pry the case apart without scratching the case.
So again once you pry a small portion.. I STARTED FROM THE BOTTOM, insert that yellow tool in the opening and run it along the case and it will start to pry open the case apart.
After that, you shall see the board.. this is where my memory gets vague.
I don't think there was any other screws to be removed to remove the board, but there might have been 1.
Anyways on the left side you will see a small ribbon cable that runs through the front of the phone, that is the cable that attches to the digitizer. Unclip it and remove it. Then carefully pry the board until you see the front screen digitizer.
Now you will need to decide how you are going to remove this because it is glued on. Be careful as you will need to use force. The OEM case though IS VERY STRONG. I was flexing that b!tch and it did not crack or snap. Good quality for sure Samsung.
Once you have it removed, you will need to have new adhesive, or be ghetto and just peel apart the one from the old digitizer and reposition it for the new one.
Put the new one, attach the ribbon cable and put phone back together.
Wish I could've taken pictures while I did it, but no one ever seems to speak up about calibration problems I thought I was the only one, and I was eager to install it.
I finally got around to fixing the digitizer. Removing the screws went suprisingly well. There was another screw on the PC board that I removed. I reused the adhesive, but I had to trim some parts of it to get it flat. Overall it went pretty well.
Thank you thank you! I just replaced my i907's digitizer and thanks to your thread, it was smooth sail.
If you didn't write it here, I would certainly feared removing the digitizer with such a force, I'd fear that I'm gonna break the frame. Fortunately, Samsung made it so soft it bends almost any angle without breaking.
It helped to put the frame on the table with a digitizer down, push onto the transparent area of digitizer with fingers (starting in some corner), and slowly pull the frame upwards, away from digitizer.
I recommend this seller: http://myworld.ebay.com/e2_express/ - it was a cheapest i907 digitizer on eBay, with free international shipping for $11, and he included all tools I needed for repair. My Epix now works perfectly (well, apart from ROM, but that's a completely different story, f**k you very much, AT&T .
Replace sceen May 2010
This is actually easier and scarier than it sounds.
Six screws: four at the corners of the battery compartment, one under the rubber plug upper left, and one under the stylus. (When putting back together-be careful with the stylus screw. The stylus goes inside and so will the screw. Time to take it apart, again.)
I could not re-use the adhesive. When I was taking off the old screen, the adhesive curled up longitudinally, tried to straighten, then it balled up. My wife scrapbooks so I used her photo adhesive strips. Not as strong, probably not long term, but I needed to put the phone back together.
Putting the ribbon connector back takes patience. Be sure the "clamp" is open before you start.
If the volume rocker comes off, dammit, there is a tiny hole that fits over a tiny peg, then slide the other end into the tiny slot.
I'm impressed with the inside of my Epix. Pretty amazing how much, and how they cram it in there.
Alright so by demand and as a newcomer gift to XDA, I will show you how to open up the Acer Iconia A100 tablet and how to replace the crappy microphone they provide with it, this thread is going to have pictures and is going to need a bit of organization skills and some soldering skills , so let's start
Before beginning note: make sure to work on a towel or something soft as the tablet will be upside down, I didn't use one and I got pretty bad scratches on my protector, as you will see in the last picture.
BEFORE BEGINNING NOTE #2 YAY!: I am in no way responsible of any damage to your device, your life, your marriage, your emotions, your cream cheese bagel order at Tim Horton's that wasn't discounted 18 cents, or your cat. So do this at your OWN risk.
Before beginning note #3: This will void your warranty....DUH. But I really don't care about mine because my slogan is "I VOID WARRANTIES "
Things you will need:
1) Set of small philips screwdrivers
2) Soldering iron
3) Solder (optional, not necessary as the mics have solder on them already)
4) Something to pry the plastic open with (I used my nail but you can use a flathead screwdriver...etc)
5) Another microphone you are going to use (preferably from a webcam/ headset, as they need to be the exact size or close to the original one)
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Now let's get to work.
Acer A100, great tablet, crappy battery and crappy mic.
In the next few images, I will pry off the plastic sides of the tablet, don't worry if you feel like they bend, just run your finger across and under the pieces until you hear all the snap ins snap out.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side:
Left side:
Alright, now that all the sides are off, let's get to the screws, there are 5 screws you have to get off, in these pictures you will see where they are.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side(NO SCREWS HERE, CARRY ON)
Left side:
Well now I really don't have to say it cause it's really obvious, grab your screw driver and get to work on these screws, make sure you put them on the side after you take em' out.
NOW FOR THE FUN PART , Really opening it up, get your nail ready, or whatever you're going to use for prying the plastic apart, and start SLOWLY prying the 2 pieces apart, CAREFULLY!
And now, completely take off the back cover (Don't worry, there's nothing connected to it, it's just an antenna)
AND BEHOLD, THE INTERNALS! (and that damned battery.....)
Alright now don't get too excited (I learned this the hard way...), there's a few things you must do first, look around and get familiar where everything is, and DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CONNECTOR!(Warning: as soon as you disconnect the battery, the whole tablet will shut down COMPLETELY, so make sure you save anything you haven't saved like game progress etc...then unplug it)
Now the left side is where the good stuff is at, so ignore everything else and just go to the left side.
Notice there is 3 connectors, the Microphone connector (black), some other connector (white and black), and some other connector (yellow), all of these have to go out, and once they are out there are 2 screws holding that small chip down in place, one black and one silver, these 2 have to go out too.
First connector (white and black), just open the small black tab and pull the flat thing out, should be really easy:
Second connector (yellow), this thing just pulls off the board, just easily lift it up:
and now remove the 2 screws and put them aside:
And now really gently pull the small board out, might need some wiggling around but it'll come out, it will be obstructed because the microphone is still in its place, but just lift the microphone out, it slides right out
So I accidentally deleted the rest of this post and lost all the images, but its pretty straight forward, just desolder the microphone, solder a new one on and pop everything back into place, make sure to put the battery connector on last and close up the tablet.
Enjoy your new microphone and hope this wasn't too long, please use the thanks button if it helped you
Man, As soon as I am able to risk opening up my A100 I so want to do this. Thanks, not only for doing it but for taking the time to take pics and post it all. You Rock!
You're very welcome, I had many more pics assembling it back, but I accidentally deleted them and lost all of it haha
Hey do you think this mic might work out? or do you have a part# for the one you used, or from what model webcam you took it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement...950292?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4ab6c51954
Well I tested 3 mics from 2 webcams and one headset, the headset was the Xbox live one and it sucked crap, and the 2 Logitech webcams were Logitech V-UM14 and V-UBC40, I settled for the one from the ubc40 as it seemed better than the um14.
About the Nokia one, I don't know if it would work as there are no solder points and you gotta take into consideration the size, both my webcams and the headset and the tablet had mics that were really close in size
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk
Nice, ok I'll scour the interwebz to get one. I don't really need it for now... but I know I'll get bored one of these days and I'll give this mod a try. Thanks.
Well if you ever do it, post which mic you use and if it works or not.
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk
great job man! time to find me a mic! whoop!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium
You are very welcome, feel free to tell everyone how it goes with the new mic
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk
Mic Dimensions
Anyone have the Mic dimensions? I'm going to try and order one from Digikey while I perform a screen repair on a friends tablet in the next week or two.
Having the dimensions and what type of connection used will help select the correct one. Is it a surface mount or are wires running to it?
Thanks
THANKS
My daughter dropped hers on the power plug and the power plug was fouled inside. I was worried I would not be able to replace the power adapter and sure enough, after reading your post with picks I realized I could buy the adapter for $15 and replace it myself. Worked like a champ! Again thanks for the picks, it really answered how to take it apart.
My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks
superfaker said:
My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1
pio_masaki said:
Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply !
I bought it in november 2011 so the warranty ended
I opened the a100
I remove the battery connector then pushed the power button several times (5 to 30 seconds)
i reconnect the battery & the powersupply to see if it will charge or power on > Didn't worked
so i was desperate, thinking of destroy the **************** tablet but i reassemble it
i retried to power on with the power button.....blue led on...acer a100 is booting
it's working for now, reset the tablet ....wait n see......
This is very interesting, that you would do this, ive contemplated it but ive sooner used a headset when necessery. I have a phone now though. Im gonna loom into revamping the battery. Now thatd be a mod
Sent from a Soviet base in Indiana
So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris
airbus318 said:
So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I think there are a few screws that hold it down and a plug. So once you open it up it is pretty easy.
Thanks will attempt.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
External Mic
Perhaps a silly question, but how difficult would it be to drill a small hole in the plastic near the microphone and solder wires to the mic location? And what would the max length of wire possible? Just rough guesses, I know it's pretty hard to be specific on stuff like that. Reason is that I have mine installed in my car as a head unit and was curious if I could run wire from the tablet to a mic mounted in the roof/headliner so that I could issue voice commands in a normal volume. I'd post a pic of my install but I don't have enough posts.
What could happen if i disconnect the other connectors first instead of the battery connector?
Got it open no problem, using fingernails and an old mastercard.
I do not recommend anyone do this unless they are very familiar with doing similar tasks - there are a number of things that can go wrong and some very delicate connections that will break easily.
Been trying all the PWR, Vol+/- combos and plugging it into my PC via USB. Nothing happens, at all. Is this useful info? No device is seen.
Even tried a dummy SIM to push a small contact switch closed at the bottom of the SIM socket, still no effect.
I've taken some photos, and identified the various antennas if anyone is interested. I will add them shortly.
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http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1643532
Put the stuff in there bud, already similar topic. Easier for people to keep track.
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
twistedh said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1643532
Put the stuff in there bud, already similar topic. Easier for people to keep track.
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that topic is full off, warranty crap i would read the s-off development and see if anything is in there.
i opened mine, its quite hard to initially get the screen to pop out, i wouldnt recomend using anything other than finger nails or you will damage something
after you opened it the Power button and Vol button will fall out, dont dop them!
the power button and vol button have a certain orientation, took me ages to realise that the power button only fit one way
removing the mainboard is quite hard, you have to void the warranty and there is a connector that is allmost impossible to get off(next to the battery)
oh and when you pull the mainboard up it gets disconnected from the power button ribbon, so make sure you un-glue the internal power button (pull it up) before pulling up the mainboard
so yeah its hard
Question: What's the pinhole above the headset connector for? Where do you get through that? It's a microphone or not?
Thanx!
AliceXES said:
Question: What's the pinhole above the headset connector for? Where do you get through that? It's a microphone or not?
Thanx!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the second mic, for noise cancellation.
Dave Trouser said:
It's the second mic, for noise cancellation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe it's also used for the secondary (stereo) audio channel in One X video capture.
knoxploration said:
I believe it's also used for the secondary (stereo) audio channel in One X video capture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, I forgot about that Although going by what some are saying, it doesn't record proper stereo anyway...
Dave Trouser said:
Yep, I forgot about that Although going by what some are saying, it doesn't record proper stereo anyway...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I've seen several reports of that too. Haven't tested myself though, mostly because until the stuttering / dropped frames are fixed, the video capture isn't really useful to me...
According to you is simple fot a noob replace a scratch screen?
acer73 said:
According to you is simple fot a noob replace a scratch screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's already been answered before: no. At least, not cheaply. The Gorilla cover glass is bonded in place, so replacing it will realistically involve replacing the entire screen assembly, which is a significant portion of the phone. (And good luck getting a replacement part that's not itself damaged.)
So how easy is it to replace the battery?
The Asgard said:
So how easy is it to replace the battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tricky, but possible. The average user would mess it up though. If the connector were located differently, I'd say most could do it. But the connector is on the side of the board facing the screen, so it has to be lifted off to disconnect the battery.
The one major thing that would stop people doing this safely is the small power switch connection under the board that pops off (should be manually disconnected!) when the board is raised more than about 5mm. Assuming the user gets that far and the connector ribbon is not damaged from the pulling, the user then faces the challenge of reconnecting it - and they must or the phone will not power on! It can only be done when the board is almost back in place, using some very small tweezers and quite some skill.
The battery connector itself is relatively easy, but as I mentioned in another post, it comes off differently than you might expect, which leaves room for damage if it is forced. The battery itself is glued down, so must be forced off - again a risk for the inexperienced as you could damage the battery if excessive force is used from the wrong point, or worse, you could damage the delicate ribbon cables that lie under it if you try and pry it off with something by sliding under it.
So in summary: it is possible but only if you have experience with disassembling similar devices and putting them back properly. The margin for error is thin.
acer73 said:
According to you is simple fot a noob replace a scratch screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely not. I'm not sure I'd even try that myself without having the proper service manual - there are too many things to go wrong.
Dave Trouser said:
Absolutely not. I'm not sure I'd even try that myself without having the proper service manual - there are too many things to go wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You shouldnt have done that...
Lol just kidding!
Is that a connector farther to the top from the pogo pins near the WiFi label you placed? its only one piece but could be our magic lock.
Edit: on zooming in it looks more like a screw.
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
can you had a video, opening the HOX ?
vladnosferatu said:
can you had a video, opening the HOX ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, because then people with zero skill will copy it and break their HOX and then blame me. If you can't work it out from the Chinese tear down photos, then you lack the skill needed to avoid doing damage.
Also, I don't have time to make a video anyway
just create ananonymous youtube acc, create a video and voila, let em blame you all they want. you are on the net aNd anonymous so no big deal
shadehh said:
just create ananonymous youtube acc, create a video and voila, let em blame you all they want. you are on the net aNd anonymous so no big deal
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
exactly
Mmm disassembling pr0n
Sent from my GT-P1000 using xda premium