Develop Bugs

[MOD] Verizon GNex w/ Play Store Desktop Dock w/ Pogo Pin

So I've been wanting the landscape Desktop Dock with Pogo Pin for my Verizon Galaxy Nexus for quite some time. When they went up on the Play store for $54 I decided to take the plunge. Everywhere I read that the phone would not fit in the dock, it would slowly rise up out of the dock and lose connection with the Pogo Pins. Well, I figured it should be a pretty simple job to modify the dock so that my Verizon phone would fit in it. I wasn't wrong.
The project isn't 100% finished, but its fully functional. All I need to do now is make it look prettier, IF ANYONE KNOWS OF SOME FORM OF PAINT OR FINISHER THAT RESEMBLES SOFT-TOUCH RUBBER PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
Basically all I did was take some 220 grit sandpaper to it, then followed up with some 400 grit to smooth it out. The process took me quite a while because every time I would finish it with the 400 grit the phone would once again start sliding up and lose connection with the pins. I found that you will either need to remove quite a lot of material, or leave the surface relatively rough so that it grips the phone and holds it in place. I initially started with some 100 grit paper, but you have to be very careful as this will gouge the plastic pretty bad. You can smooth it out, but it will take a lot of work. If I did it again I'd start with some 180 grit or so for the primary material removal, then smooth it out with some 250 or 300 grit.
I left the phone all night in the dock and it did not lose connection. I have had it in the dock all morning, with some light use, and the connection hasn't been lost. I am running AOKP B37 and the phone immediately launches the clock app and begins charging when I place it in the dock. Also, the phone charges at AC rate when the dock is connected to a wall outlet. I haven't tested when connected to my PC via USB. Data transfer doesn't work over the Pogo Pins anyway so there isn't really any point to connect it to your PC. AUDIO OUT VIA A PAIR OF CHEAP PC SPEAKERS WORKS FLAWLESSLY, IT IS NOT USING BLUETOOTH.
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I initially tried sanding down only the side to the left of the pogo pins, where the bottom of the phone rests. Unfortunately this did not work, I had to remove some material down the entire length of the dock. I also found it very important to sand down the inside edges of the front ridge running along the bottom and sides. Its relatively easy to remove a decent amount of material from these sides, and will help the phone rest on the pogo pins. I also remove a good amount of material from the 'groove' where the top and bottom of the phone slide in.
Its not the prettiest thing right now, but it is functional and I think with a little more sanding and the proper paint I'll be able make it look almost like new.
If you're like me and love having a dock on your desk, don't be afraid to try this out! Its very easy and as long as you don't mind the dock looking a little scuffed.

Thanks. I was really curious how others would approach fitting their Verizon Galaxy Nexus in this dock along with their experiences doing so. Pretty simple fix. I may just try to do this myself.

Your pictures ain't working.

Hmm, pictures work fine for me on phone and desktop, can anyone see them?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

litso said:
Hmm, pictures work fine for me on phone and desktop, can anyone see them?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pictures show up on my desktop. Haven't tried on my phone.

Pictures don't work on my desktop when viewing from the forums. When I open an image in a new tab, it gives me HTTP 403: "Rate-limit exceeded That’s all we know".
When I refresh that tab, then it works.

Looks good so far. Just some tips from my experience with this kinda stuff, you need to work up to at least 2000 grit paper. This will get rid of the sanding lines. Also I wouldn't bother with the rubberized material, it's expensive and not going to match anyways. You could go with the cheap plastidip but it will surely come off after a few dozen uses of the dock.
You're definitely on the right track... I would just keep sanding off a little more material at a time until the phone fits without sliding up, then either leave or sand the whole dock and paint the whole thing.

Thanks for the tips. I'll definitely keep that in mind. My primary concern was getting it functional, which it is.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

For a soft touch-like surface you can try using spray on plasti-dip. Its a material that you may have seen for dipping tool handles in. It has a nice rubberized surface that covers well. You can get it in black (and a few more colors online) and it isn't terribly expensive. Remember, light coats always.
The actual finish that gets used for on phones and consumer products that we call soft touch is really expensive for you and I to buy. I tried getting some one time for a project and was quoted something like $90/pint. Good luck!

I ordered this dock thinking it would work with a minimal amount of Modding but the design of the dock is molded very specific to the size of the GSM phone. Your fix us encouraging but is it really worth all that work sanding down that beautiful finish? I'm thinking the dock from Samsung might just be the better choice if it ever gets off back order.

That looks pretty good so far! Great job!

Zenoran said:
I ordered this dock thinking it would work with a minimal amount of Modding but the design of the dock is molded very specific to the size of the GSM phone. Your fix us encouraging but is it really worth all that work sanding down that beautiful finish? I'm thinking the dock from Samsung might just be the better choice if it ever gets off back order.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The samsung dock for i515 would certainly be preferable, but I was tired of waiting and didn't like the $90 price tag. It was really not much work to sand it down, maybe an hour total just because I was constantly stopping and checking to see how the phone fit. I plan on touching it up a bit and making it look nicer. To be honest though, I'm the only one who ever really sees it, and whenever I see it my phone is in it so I can't even tell .

litso said:
The samsung dock for i515 would certainly be preferable, but I was tired of waiting and didn't like the $90 price tag. It was really not much work to sand it down, maybe an hour total just because I was constantly stopping and checking to see how the phone fit. I plan on touching it up a bit and making it look nicer. To be honest though, I'm the only one who ever really sees it, and whenever I see it my phone is in it so I can't even tell .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I think I'm going to try and contact Samsung to see what the deal is before I buy and mod this one. I mean we've been waiting six months now, it's ridiculous!

TLDR Answer: Rubberized Undercoating
I read this thread the other day and happened to think of a possible solution. If you are familiar with rubberized undercoating for vehicles, this may offer a similar texture to the stock finish. Basically its rubber coating in an aerosol can for preventing rust on the underside of vehicles. It probably wouldn't work too well straight from an aerosol can but if you sprayed some into a jar then thinned it out with lacquer thinner/paint thinner and either lightly brushed it on even sprayed it through an airbrush if available I bet you could get close. I'd just test it out on an old piece of metal or something first and you could even tweak the color by adding a little flat or semi gloss paint to match the stock dock color.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA

Function over form Looks great.

litso said:
The samsung dock for i515 would certainly be preferable, but I was tired of waiting and didn't like the $90 price tag. It was really not much work to sand it down, maybe an hour total just because I was constantly stopping and checking to see how the phone fit. I plan on touching it up a bit and making it look nicer. To be honest though, I'm the only one who ever really sees it, and whenever I see it my phone is in it so I can't even tell .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ya good points. I still have this dock and am tempted to just try this out instead of shipping it back to Google. Thanks very much for the post.

litso said:
IF ANYONE KNOWS OF SOME FORM OF PAINT OR FINISHER THAT RESEMBLES SOFT-TOUCH RUBBER PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might give this a go...
"Plasti Dip"
It's used a lot by car modders to give a flat black plastic look to chrome and other trim. Might work, but masking would be difficult.
Other option would be to just polish with finer grits until you match the dull plastic finish.

thanks to op for idea.
i did the same and phone stays in place. not crazy about the look but i was able to get the sanded parts fairly smooth using 400+ grit. im pretty sure if you spent enough time on it you could get it to look pretty good.
to be honest though if the i515 dock was readily available i would probably spend the extra $ for it so as not to have to expend the elbow grease

I bet using a dremel would speed up the sanding process although it wouldnt work in the curves

Awesome!
I just received my $54 dock this week and was going to hit it with the sandpaper this weekend to make room for my VZ Gnex. This post/thread is super helpful! Thanks!!!

DIY custom car dock for the Galaxy S3

So after getting my new S3 a couple weeks ago I decided I wanted a dock for my truck to be able use navigation, music, etc a little more conveniently….
I was really surprised to find out that Samsung has not made an S3 specific dock yet….
After doing some searching, I found a thread here that showed the Infuse 4G car dock worked (thanks ookba!), so I picked one up from ATT last week to play with.
While it does what I want, I couldn’t use it with my Aduro shell holster case as it does not come off easily. In addition, I couldn’t mount the dock where I wanted in my truck.
So I decided to make my own dock and mount; hopefully someone here can benefit from this. This won't win any beauty awards, but it works.
The materials I used are as follows:
1/8” black Kydex (McMaster-Carr PN 8650K112)
Cannibalized Infuse 4G dock
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Pro-Fit Toyota specific VSM G3 mount – This was sort of a mistake; I didn’t look closely enough where the mount was intended to be installed into my Tundra. The mount was made to be installed on the passenger side of the radio which is way too far away for me. So I ended up using the parts, but as the kit was $50, I probably could’ve done it cheaper if I was paying attention.
1/8 x 1.5 x 6” aluminum strip (Home Depot)
In addition, So I did not melt my expensive S3, I needed to make a replacement that I could use to form the Kydex with, once I heated it up; For that I used the Incipio case that I had first bought, but didn’t really like.
I also got some polyester casting resin and activator from an art supply house to make the form.
(Black electrical tape placed over openings to keep resin from leaking out)
After about 24 hours I had a "new" GS3! This picture shows the new resin S3 in the Incipio case...
Out of the mold. Note that the textured side of the Kydex is what contacts the phone; it almost feels soft.
Next I needed to fit the USB portion of the Infuse dock onto my cradle; In order for my S3 to slide onto the USB port, I had to mill the back of my cradle until the phone slid onto the USB smoothly. I ended up taking off nearly 1/16” from the back.
Once that was done, I cut out the center portion of the Infuse dock connector so I could fill it with epoxy and make it a bit stronger. I also had to grind down the bottom a bit to make it flat.
The scary part was actually gluing the 2 pieces to together so the USB plug lined up with the phone; For this, I had to use the actual phone and not my resin mockup…… Fortunately I did not end up gluing my phone to the dock!
Not the prettiest, but fully functional!
I did polish up the edges so they were smooth with my Dremel.
Here is the dock with the Pro-Fit Lock Plate (PN BR202-LP) secured to the back. You can also see that I molded the top of the cradle over an Exacto knife handle as a retainer for the phone.
With phone
I may cut off the tab at the top, as the phone fits in nice and snug by itself, so I don’t think it is in any danger of falling out. We’ll see…
Next, I need a mount!
I hammered on a 6” strip of 1/8” aluminum to make my mount. You can see the Tundra Pro-fit mount below it… More on that later…
Here is the mount sitting on my dash
This was an experiment, but I decided to try using some Command wall strips to secure the mount to the dash.
Command strips installed, Pro-fit mount bolted onto the end.
Mount “secured “ to the dash….
This is the mount temporarily secured where I wanted it with the owners manual as ballast.
So how did it work? It worked pretty well actually, with just a couple issues: The mount vibrated around a bit too much while driving and was a little too close to the steering wheel; however the dock itself worked well. I will probably mod the mount to stiffen it up.

Very creative !
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j288/beemer533/Custom Galaxy S3 dock/IMG_8442.jpg
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using xda premium

As far as using Command strips for adhesive.... lets say that was a waste of cash!
I parked in the sun for a couple hours and the mount dropped right off... i measured almost 180 degrees on my dash with my IR thermometer.
I'll just try some heavy duty double sided tape next.... I was hoping to get something that could be removed relatively easily.

Do you by any chance have a power drill I could borrow??? lol
Nice work! i would have ruined the case, cut off a finger or drilled through my phone if I attempted something like that! :laugh:

Beemer533 said:
As far as using Command strips for adhesive.... lets say that was a waste of cash!
I parked in the sun for a couple hours and the mount dropped right off... i measured almost 180 degrees on my dash with my IR thermometer.
I'll just try some heavy duty double sided tape next.... I was hoping to get something that could be removed relatively easily.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've used thos strips as well and they do not hold up in the heat. What I've found to work is using 3M outdoor mounting tape. It holds up to the hot Phoenix weather. Nice Tundra by the way :good:

strengthcoach4 said:
I've used thos strips as well and they do not hold up in the heat. What I've found to work is using 3M outdoor mounting tape. It holds up to the hot Phoenix weather. Nice Tundra by the way :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it holds up in Phoenix than it should work pretty well here in Syracuse... Where did you buy the 3M outdoor tape? I haven't had a chance to drop buy HD or Loews yet.
Thanks! I've been very happy with my Tundra so far. Tows and drives really well.

awesome! I am in the midst of trying something like this myself! KUDOS!!!
Thanks for posting this will crazy details! Might have to steal some of this!!

No problem! Steal away... I have a few more pictures that I didn't post; just ask if you want to see anything in more detail...

if you could show more details of how you mounted the infuse dock... heck any pics! lol

Interesting, thanks for the post!

flawedlegacy said:
if you could show more details of how you mounted the infuse dock... heck any pics! lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, I should have some more pics for that. I will update shortly....

somerandomguy1 said:
Interesting, thanks for the post!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
NP, glad to help.

UPDATE
Sooo, I did discover the downside of using Kydex.... I originally selected Kydex as my material due to its relatively low "heat forming" point...(~150)..
I am in Denver this week for work, so I brought my dock with me to use in my rental car; this afternoon I left work and when i put the phone in the dock I found one of the "wings" that holds the phone had opened up a bit.
It was 95 degrees out and I know from my measurements in my truck back home, that I was seeing 175 degrees (measured on the dash with IR)
Judging by how hot the steering wheel was, I'm guessing the interior heated up close enough to the forming temperature of Kydex that it softened up a bit..
This isn't a huge deal for me as I can just remove the dock from the mount when I'm not in the car and set it aside out of the sun.
I would like to get a material that will be more heat resistant though, which means that it will require more heat to form, which in turn means that my current resin mold won't cut it....
Looks like I will have to get some heat resistant silicon and make a mold that I can pour a liquid metal into to make a heat resistant form.
Stay tuned!

In response to previous request about how I secured the Infuse dock to my cradle; here is some additional details...
If you have the Infuse dock, this is the part that slides to insert the USB connector into the phone; I simply removed it from the dock it self. On the rear is a thin piece of plastic that just pulls out; under that you will see 4 small philips screws. Those are what holds this piece to the rest of the dock.
Once I had the screws out, I cut out the center portion so I could fill the cavity with epoxy. My original plan was to fill with epoxy to strengthen it, let harden and then secure it to my cradle with screws. I ended up just using the epoxy to secure it, so probably didn't need to fill it, but no big deal, either way would work.
THis is a close up of the back of my cradle (i think this picture was also in the original post) I took my dremel and with a sanding drum I carefully sanded out an area so the dock would fit correctly.
I spent quite a bit of time lining up the dock with my phone and sanding until it fit correctly
Here is the dock epoxied to the cradle

Beginning the journey of Wireless Charging

So I'm really missing wireless charging after having stuffed it into my GS3 and the Nexus 4 obviously having it built in. So... being that I still had 2 chargers and 2 pads left over, I've decided to begin modding the Moto X after seeing there was quite a bit of room in the bottom of the phone under the battery cover when I was replacing the woven black with a MotoMaker back. Here's the pre-fitting photos. I had to trim some of the foam away at the bottom, and still need to trace where exactly to place the wires for the charging. I'm guessing I'll have to solder directly to the back of the USB port. Where it sits will be a perfect angle, and should not interfere with NFC at all (Yay google wallet!)
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I'll be posting periodically with updates, although I don't know when I'll have more time as I have 2 infant daughters that demand much attention.

Awesome!
I've been missing qi charging as well, hopefully you get this to work.
Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk

icase81 said:
I'll be posting periodically with updates, although I don't know when I'll have more time as I have 2 infant daughters that demand much attention.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Curious to see how this goes. Even though I am quite sure the results will be positive.
Sub'd

I hope you don't abandon the idea and keep us updated. Seems like a worthy project!

Go OP! I can't wait to see success with this, so that I may be able to do this mod myself as well.

Exactly what I was hoping someone would do. Hopefully this works out and is simple enough to do. :good:

Looks awesome, OP!
On a side note - where did you get the MotoMaker back? I'd like to change my back to a custom-colored one eventually too, but I haven't been able to find any backs online.

terabyte128 said:
Looks awesome, OP!
On a side note - where did you get the MotoMaker back? I'd like to change my back to a custom-colored one eventually too, but I haven't been able to find any backs online.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can get them on ebay now. Been eyeing getting one but waiting for the wood backs.

Well this is awesome man...!!!!! :good:

Wow, god speed. I don't yet have a Moto X (still holding out for a wood back) but I'm so used to using those Palm wireless chargers on my current phone (SGS)! I have one at work and one at home on my nightstand. It's a perfect angle of inclination for my preference and the wireless charging works great. Are you having any problems putting the phone back together? I know they don't leave much room in there for something as thick as one of these chargers. And I guess if I eventually get the wood back that probably wouldn't make for an easy time getting it off :-/

I'd like to do this too, which coil receiver do you recommend?
Thanks,
Danny

dhoppy said:
I'd like to do this too, which coil receiver do you recommend?
Thanks,
Danny
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The one he is using in the images uses the Palm Touchstone charger, you can find a bunch of applicable coils on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/palm-wireless-charging I am fairly certain that this coil will only work on that Touchstone and is not compatible with QI or Powermat.
edit: I also highly recommend buying some tiny magnets (I bought 1/4" by 1/32" circular ones) instead of the metal disks that are included so you can get it to snap a lot better to the stand.

thanks

Anyone trying this should aim to have the charging coil as close to the camera as possible, the antennas are all in the lower back of the unit and you won't want to block them at all.
I have been looking at some wireless charging options myself. One of them is a small pad that should fit under most soft cases, it has a thin ribbon cable with a very low profile micro usb connector on the end. The better option is something like that but integrated internally. I haven't opened a Moto X yet to see how much space there is. What is the maximum thickness we can hope to have, is there anywhere near 1mm if we remove the silicone pad?
Everything I am looking at is Qi compatible.
I have also been studying high-res pictures of the inside of the Moto X looking for possible solder points for power, doesn't look too friendly at this point.

Steve-x said:
Anyone trying this should aim to have the charging coil as close to the camera as possible, the antennas are all in the lower back of the unit and you won't want to block them at all.
I have been looking at some wireless charging options myself. One of them is a small pad that should fit under most soft cases, it has a thin ribbon cable with a very low profile micro usb connector on the end. The better option is something like that but integrated internally. I haven't opened a Moto X yet to see how much space there is. What is the maximum thickness we can hope to have, is there anywhere near 1mm if we remove the silicone pad?
Everything I am looking at is Qi compatible.
I have also been studying high-res pictures of the inside of the Moto X looking for possible solder points for power, doesn't look too friendly at this point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is plenty of room towards the bottom and the silicone is maybe a mm in the thickest area. Insofar as blocking the antenna, I've never had issues with my sgs3 or note 2 with putting the coil over the antenna. However, with regards to solder points, you are right. This is not going to be easy without fully disassembling and finding either the microUSB solder points or the charging circuits entry points from the microUSB. I may be abandoning this if that's the case.
Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

Has anyone tried this (for the qi standard)? Thinking about giving it a shot.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universa...faultDomain_15&var&hash=item27db52d3fa&_uhb=1

the green man said:
Has anyone tried this (for the qi standard)? Thinking about giving it a shot.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universa...faultDomain_15&var&hash=item27db52d3fa&_uhb=1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That looks like it would be perfect to slip between the phone and a case, would bending it to conform to the back of the phone affect it's charging ability though? Or would it even be able to be bent?

"There is plenty of room towards the bottom and the silicone is maybe a mm in the thickest area. Insofar as blocking the antenna, I've never had issues with my sgs3 or note 2 with putting the coil over the antenna. However, with regards to solder points, you are right. This is not going to be easy without fully disassembling and finding either the microUSB solder points or the charging circuits entry points from the microUSB. I may be abandoning this if that's the case."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So how would one check to see which of the 4 prongs connected to the ribbon going to the battery are the correct +/- terminals. I've been studying over the iFixIt.com images to come up with a plan and I think if I can get a random wireless charging coil from eBay then cut that ribbon to fit into the 2 needed ports for the battery ribbon, then the only thing would be size/fitment under the back cover.

alk195 said:
That looks like it would be perfect to slip between the phone and a case, would bending it to conform to the back of the phone affect it's charging ability though? Or would it even be able to be bent?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It shouldn't matter. As long as the plug is in, and the pad is near the wireless charger.
This is kinda smart; can't believe this isn't widely known. I've never seen something like this.

alk195 said:
That looks like it would be perfect to slip between the phone and a case, would bending it to conform to the back of the phone affect it's charging ability though? Or would it even be able to be bent?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Someone has to be the guinea pig on this.. I would love to be able to slide this under a case.

Truly Wireless Charging In The Car

DONE! (kinda, still waiting on my magnets)
Behold, wireless charging in your car! No more tacky wires(well, in a way), no weird looking dock.
Items Needed for this exact project
Lexus IS300, any year, without navigation
Nexus 5 (or pretty much any other QI enabled device)
Soldering iron
Qi Charger
Lots of patience, 30 minutes to an hour of time
Small amount of soldering skills (just 2 soldering points)
A power source behind the "scenes" (panels), in this case, a GROM Audio device with a 5V output USB (female)
Micro USB cable that you are fine with leaving in the car
I think that's it.
Now, here's how I did it.
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This is a wireless charger($11 cheap one off eBay, they have tons on there, output is 1A), torn down to its bare essentials. No more plastic. With the help of a soldering iron, I desoldered the plugs from the charging area to the middle piece that has the light to fit into...
This!
Well this, my Center console vent that is in my IS (No navi )
Top View.
Bottom Views, last one with the cable plugged in.
Now, it is installed! Notice that the panel fits on top without any modifying to the panels, except for the actual charger itself.
Now how does it power up you ask?
With the help of my Grom audio device (which also gives me aux on my stock Lexus Stereo.) I left the USB plug in access in the glove compartment, just incase anything bad happens, or to not waste energy on the charger when I don't need it. Trying to figure out how to make my glove compartment less messy, but so far this is the best that I can do.
Note, no video. I will have that posted sometime, I just recorded it off an iPhone, so I will need to edit it so you get the full effect. Or not, I will probably just upload it, it will just take a few days.
Now, I want someone to do this, but even better than I did! Anything is possible!

Best of luck m8! That does sound amazing
Make sure the magnets are strong, otherwise a simple speed bump will toss away your nexus

You could try some HDD Neodymium magnets taken out of a HDD.

daniel_loft said:
You could try some HDD Neodymium magnets taken out of a HDD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Turns out the magnets I ordered are Neodymium, so I shall see how it works in a few days.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app

Bumping because it is pretty much finished.

iLikeTurtuls said:
DONE! (kinda, still waiting on my magnets)
Behold, wireless charging in your car! No more tacky wires(well, in a way), no weird looking dock.
Items Needed for this exact project
Lexus IS300, any year, without navigation
Nexus 5 (or pretty much any other QI enabled device)
Soldering iron
Qi Charger
Lots of patience, 30 minutes to an hour of time
Small amount of soldering skills (just 2 soldering points)
A power source behind the "scenes" (panels), in this case, a GROM Audio device with a 5V output USB (female)
Micro USB cable that you are fine with leaving in the car
I think that's it.
Now, here's how I did it.
This is a wireless charger($11 cheap one off eBay, they have tons on there, output is 1A), torn down to its bare essentials. No more plastic. With the help of a soldering iron, I desoldered the plugs from the charging area to the middle piece that has the light to fit into...
This!
Well this, my Center console vent that is in my IS (No navi )
Top View.
Bottom Views, last one with the cable plugged in.
Now, it is installed! Notice that the panel fits on top without any modifying to the panels, except for the actual charger itself.
Now how does it power up you ask?
With the help of my Grom audio device (which also gives me aux on my stock Lexus Stereo.) I left the USB plug in access in the glove compartment, just incase anything bad happens, or to not waste energy on the charger when I don't need it. Trying to figure out how to make my glove compartment less messy, but so far this is the best that I can do.
Note, no video. I will have that posted sometime, I just recorded it off an iPhone, so I will need to edit it so you get the full effect. Or not, I will probably just upload it, it will just take a few days.
Now, I want someone to do this, but even better than I did! Anything is possible!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pircture links are broken. Try imgur album.

Update on pics please

Andrew149 said:
Update on pics please
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I have some info to offer that may help people with this project. I did the same in the center console of my Miata, and here's a few things that may help people. First my setup.
Qi charger laying flat in center console, foam around the edges to keep the phone from moving (with a hole in the foam at the bottom, this is important). Immediately behind it I installed a fan because the phone would otherwise overheat because: I'm also running appradio unchained to an appradio head unit AND using a netgear push2tv for wireless display to the head unit.
This is a very nice setup, with a few flaws and considerations:
1. Phone likes to get hot and either barely charge or just maintain charge: the fan certainly helps, but also the phone being in a closed space with very low auto brightness helps keep this manageable
2. Must QI chargers will not accept straight vehicle voltage. My energizer pad would stop working as the voltage varied up to 14.3v when the car was running. As a result I added a simple few dollar voltage regulator inline to keep the voltage as close to 12v as possible. I should have tried to add in a delay as well since sometimes restarting tthe car will cause a momentary voltage drop big enough to confuse the charger, but it won't restart after the car does, leaving it flashing at me in error. This can also be solved by just going straight from off to start, and it doesn't happen all the time, so I'm dealing with it till I open it back up again.
Hope this helps someone

thepoetlives89 said:
Pircture links are broken. Try imgur album.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fixed, thank you for the idea.
compuw22c said:
Qi charger laying flat in center console, foam around the edges to keep the phone from moving (with a hole in the foam at the bottom, this is important). Immediately behind it I installed a fan because the phone would otherwise overheat because: I'm also running appradio unchained to an appradio head unit AND using a netgear push2tv for wireless display to the head unit.
This is a very nice setup, with a few flaws and considerations:
1. Phone likes to get hot and either barely charge or just maintain charge: the fan certainly helps, but also the phone being in a closed space with very low auto brightness helps keep this manageable
2. Must QI chargers will not accept straight vehicle voltage. My energizer pad would stop working as the voltage varied up to 14.3v when the car was running. As a result I added a simple few dollar voltage regulator inline to keep the voltage as close to 12v as possible. I should have tried to add in a delay as well since sometimes restarting tthe car will cause a momentary voltage drop big enough to confuse the charger, but it won't restart after the car does, leaving it flashing at me in error. This can also be solved by just going straight from off to start, and it doesn't happen all the time, so I'm dealing with it till I open it back up again.
Hope this helps someone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable that I bought from grom audio outputs 5v (does not list the Amps.) Knowing a little bit of info about car chargers and how it pretty much rushes the power to the device before calming down after a second or 2, I made sure the USB is accessible in the glove compartment, as shown in picture 10. The wiring is a little messy, but I barely had time to install the unit.
Regarding the heat, I have an iPhone that I used for music (it was cheaper for me to buy it than buying an iPod), and a stock stereo so I don't have to worry about the heat too much, but being on the dash will definitely heat it up, along with the charging itself, especially during the heat. I'll most likely be using it at night, or on long trips, mainly because I have not got magnets to hold it down. I tried the hard drive magnets, however the ones I received were too small (the said 1x3, so I assume CM but it was MM.) I have a dead hard drive, which I might use for the magnets. I am looking for a magnet thats like the size of a quarter and 1mm thin, so pretty much a magnet quarter or penny hahah. If the magnet from my HDD don't work, then back to eBay again!

[REF] USB connector pin-out

With this connections, I've sucessfully unlocked the bootloader. I'm not responsible it you break your moto360!
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To encourage more research and developments, use the donate button in the right! thanks!

Thanks for doing the hard part.

Step by step please

The first connection labeled ID? Maybe the Motorola standard 5 pin battery bypass, to power device direct from USB
ie moto factory/fastboot cable
Or something else...
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
---------- Post added at 11:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:03 PM ----------
Smokuevo said:
Step by step please
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Connect USB wires
Code:
fastboot oem unlock
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Do you lose waterproof?

tospace2006 said:
Do you lose waterproof?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You just remove a sticker to access usb connector pins, so no
replace sticker when done if you want
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

I will likely never do this, but think it's absolutely awesome that you did! Thanks!

sd_shadow said:
The first connection labeled ID? Maybe the Motorola standard 5 pin battery bypass, to power device direct from USB
ie moto factory/fastboot cable
Or something else...
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
---------- Post added at 11:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:03 PM ----------
Connect USB wires
Code:
fastboot oem unlock
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can this not be done via bluetooth debugging?

wiredout46 said:
can this not be done via bluetooth debugging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. Bluetooth doesn't work in the bootloader.

Nice work. Now we just need someone with a 3D printer to print us some little plastic "handles" we can pop some pogo pins into and run the wires to a full USB for fairly easy connecting. Hell, they might even be able to print some plugs to seal the holes as well, but there isn't much clearance when you have a band on. You know that sticker will lose it's stickiness after a few removals.

AJerman said:
Nice work. Now we just need someone with a 3D printer to print us some little plastic "handles" we can pop some pogo pins into and run the wires to a full USB for fairly easy connecting. Hell, they might even be able to print some plugs to seal the holes as well, but there isn't much clearance when you have a band on. You know that sticker will lose it's stickiness after a few removals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i was in the middle of stripping a usb cable when i realized i didnt really have a way to connect it to the watch due to lack of supplies, and i probably wont do this until that 3d printed "handles" are a thing

What is the easiest way to disassemble the watch? Would like to start monkeying around but would rather have a bit of guidance instead of risking breaking something. Great work by the way.
EDIT - Never mind, saw your instructions in the reddit thread. So freaking stoked to start tweaking.

AJerman said:
Nice work. Now we just need someone with a 3D printer to print us some little plastic "handles" we can pop some pogo pins into and run the wires to a full USB for fairly easy connecting. Hell, they might even be able to print some plugs to seal the holes as well, but there isn't much clearance when you have a band on. You know that sticker will lose it's stickiness after a few removals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, theoretically, once you unlock the BL, you might not need to hook up the cable again (unless you need to flash a system image). The main reason to unlock would be to flash recovery/system images and there are ways of flashing recovery from a booted phone. Someone would just need to make a tool like flashify for the watch.

Exactly. Once we have a custom recovery there'll be no need to keep plugging it in, the only downside will be the time it takes to copy ROMs over to the device via BT.

Tung_meister said:
Exactly. Once we have a custom recovery there'll be no need to keep plugging it in, the only downside will be the time it takes to copy ROMs over to the device via BT.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I was thinking about though. When I did the system dump it took 3-4 hours. If I have to build something once to unlock it, I'd probably rather keep using it for transfers. I suppose you could copy files at night or something while it charges if you don't want to plug it in physically again.
Honestly, a 3d printed tool would be cool, but you could use any small piece of plastic trimmed to fit and poke some pogos through it and solder wires in for a pretty easy set up. The biggest pain would be pulling the sticker and putting it back and maintaining water resistance. You may end up having to replace it with some good tape after a few times but that wouldn't be too terrible.

Awhile a go when I use to do some JTAG hacking. I used a bar style eraser and poked needles through it that would touch the pads and soldered wires on the other end. Then you would have to hold the eraser carefully. Maybe something like that would work.
Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

At first I thought it would have a wireless data transfer via its wireless charging cradle. I may sound stupid but induction data transfer would be way cooler or may be NFC. This is the main reason I dropped the order of moto360 and ordered a G Watch.
All I can say is, moto360 is not fully developer friendly. May be the next version of 360 will cover all the poor parts.

Yeah i've been trying to do some debugging and development on my watchface and i'm starting to get quite annoyed by having to wait while it sends the APK via BT.

AJerman said:
Nice work. Now we just need someone with a 3D printer to print us some little plastic "handles" we can pop some pogo pins into and run the wires to a full USB for fairly easy connecting. Hell, they might even be able to print some plugs to seal the holes as well, but there isn't much clearance when you have a band on. You know that sticker will lose it's stickiness after a few removals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
looking into using http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25 to make a connector for it... I'm not sure if the dimensions are right (I don't have my moto 360 yet) and my 3d printer isn't done yet (building one), should be pretty straightforward, probably won't even need the printer, just some plastic glued on the bottom of the pins
EDIT: after a little more messing around with dimensions (as much as I can glean from teardown pictures from I fixit https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola+Moto+360+Teardown/28891), those pogo pins are close and if they were separated from the plastic they'd work fine, a 3d printed separator would probly be necessary to keep the spacing right... I'll probably be designing the 3d printed separator piece soon, a nice piece ready to be made should be available soon

dark_samus said:
looking into using http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25 to make a connector for it... I'm not sure if the dimensions are right (I don't have my moto 360 yet) and my 3d printer isn't done yet (building one), should be pretty straightforward, probably won't even need the printer, just some plastic glued on the bottom of the pins
EDIT: after a little more messing around with dimensions (as much as I can glean from teardown pictures from I fixit https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola+Moto+360+Teardown/28891), those pogo pins are close and if they were separated from the plastic they'd work fine, a 3d printed separator would probly be necessary to keep the spacing right... I'll probably be designing the 3d printed separator piece soon, a nice piece ready to be made should be available soon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was kinda thinking of making one with one of these connectors -- maybe something that you could just push into the cavity where the watch band was that would have spring-loaded pins that would kinda click in and hold the connector snug -- although it is hard to tell if there'd be enough clearance for the whole plastic part to fit or if the connector pitch is correct.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/70AAJ-4-M0G/70AAJ-4-M0GTR-ND/761020
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/70ABJ-4-M0E/70ABJ-4-M0ETR-ND/2037594
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/70ADJ-4-ML1G/70ADJ-4-ML1GTR-ND/2537943
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/009155004002016/478-4675-2-ND/1687155
The thin wires like the ones made from that Ethernet connector look like they'd slip off too easily at an inopportune moment even though the contacts are slightly recessed into the holes, although even some right angle header pins like these would be better (or at least more rigid).
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/M20-9710646/952-2372-ND/3724334