With this connections, I've sucessfully unlocked the bootloader. I'm not responsible it you break your moto360!
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To encourage more research and developments, use the donate button in the right! thanks!
Thanks for doing the hard part.
Step by step please
The first connection labeled ID? Maybe the Motorola standard 5 pin battery bypass, to power device direct from USB
ie moto factory/fastboot cable
Or something else...
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
---------- Post added at 11:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:03 PM ----------
Smokuevo said:
Step by step please
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Connect USB wires
Code:
fastboot oem unlock
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Do you lose waterproof?
tospace2006 said:
Do you lose waterproof?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You just remove a sticker to access usb connector pins, so no
replace sticker when done if you want
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
I will likely never do this, but think it's absolutely awesome that you did! Thanks!
sd_shadow said:
The first connection labeled ID? Maybe the Motorola standard 5 pin battery bypass, to power device direct from USB
ie moto factory/fastboot cable
Or something else...
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
---------- Post added at 11:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:03 PM ----------
Connect USB wires
Code:
fastboot oem unlock
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can this not be done via bluetooth debugging?
wiredout46 said:
can this not be done via bluetooth debugging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. Bluetooth doesn't work in the bootloader.
Nice work. Now we just need someone with a 3D printer to print us some little plastic "handles" we can pop some pogo pins into and run the wires to a full USB for fairly easy connecting. Hell, they might even be able to print some plugs to seal the holes as well, but there isn't much clearance when you have a band on. You know that sticker will lose it's stickiness after a few removals.
AJerman said:
Nice work. Now we just need someone with a 3D printer to print us some little plastic "handles" we can pop some pogo pins into and run the wires to a full USB for fairly easy connecting. Hell, they might even be able to print some plugs to seal the holes as well, but there isn't much clearance when you have a band on. You know that sticker will lose it's stickiness after a few removals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i was in the middle of stripping a usb cable when i realized i didnt really have a way to connect it to the watch due to lack of supplies, and i probably wont do this until that 3d printed "handles" are a thing
What is the easiest way to disassemble the watch? Would like to start monkeying around but would rather have a bit of guidance instead of risking breaking something. Great work by the way.
EDIT - Never mind, saw your instructions in the reddit thread. So freaking stoked to start tweaking.
AJerman said:
Nice work. Now we just need someone with a 3D printer to print us some little plastic "handles" we can pop some pogo pins into and run the wires to a full USB for fairly easy connecting. Hell, they might even be able to print some plugs to seal the holes as well, but there isn't much clearance when you have a band on. You know that sticker will lose it's stickiness after a few removals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, theoretically, once you unlock the BL, you might not need to hook up the cable again (unless you need to flash a system image). The main reason to unlock would be to flash recovery/system images and there are ways of flashing recovery from a booted phone. Someone would just need to make a tool like flashify for the watch.
Exactly. Once we have a custom recovery there'll be no need to keep plugging it in, the only downside will be the time it takes to copy ROMs over to the device via BT.
Tung_meister said:
Exactly. Once we have a custom recovery there'll be no need to keep plugging it in, the only downside will be the time it takes to copy ROMs over to the device via BT.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I was thinking about though. When I did the system dump it took 3-4 hours. If I have to build something once to unlock it, I'd probably rather keep using it for transfers. I suppose you could copy files at night or something while it charges if you don't want to plug it in physically again.
Honestly, a 3d printed tool would be cool, but you could use any small piece of plastic trimmed to fit and poke some pogos through it and solder wires in for a pretty easy set up. The biggest pain would be pulling the sticker and putting it back and maintaining water resistance. You may end up having to replace it with some good tape after a few times but that wouldn't be too terrible.
Awhile a go when I use to do some JTAG hacking. I used a bar style eraser and poked needles through it that would touch the pads and soldered wires on the other end. Then you would have to hold the eraser carefully. Maybe something like that would work.
Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
At first I thought it would have a wireless data transfer via its wireless charging cradle. I may sound stupid but induction data transfer would be way cooler or may be NFC. This is the main reason I dropped the order of moto360 and ordered a G Watch.
All I can say is, moto360 is not fully developer friendly. May be the next version of 360 will cover all the poor parts.
Yeah i've been trying to do some debugging and development on my watchface and i'm starting to get quite annoyed by having to wait while it sends the APK via BT.
AJerman said:
Nice work. Now we just need someone with a 3D printer to print us some little plastic "handles" we can pop some pogo pins into and run the wires to a full USB for fairly easy connecting. Hell, they might even be able to print some plugs to seal the holes as well, but there isn't much clearance when you have a band on. You know that sticker will lose it's stickiness after a few removals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
looking into using http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25 to make a connector for it... I'm not sure if the dimensions are right (I don't have my moto 360 yet) and my 3d printer isn't done yet (building one), should be pretty straightforward, probably won't even need the printer, just some plastic glued on the bottom of the pins
EDIT: after a little more messing around with dimensions (as much as I can glean from teardown pictures from I fixit https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola+Moto+360+Teardown/28891), those pogo pins are close and if they were separated from the plastic they'd work fine, a 3d printed separator would probly be necessary to keep the spacing right... I'll probably be designing the 3d printed separator piece soon, a nice piece ready to be made should be available soon
dark_samus said:
looking into using http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25 to make a connector for it... I'm not sure if the dimensions are right (I don't have my moto 360 yet) and my 3d printer isn't done yet (building one), should be pretty straightforward, probably won't even need the printer, just some plastic glued on the bottom of the pins
EDIT: after a little more messing around with dimensions (as much as I can glean from teardown pictures from I fixit https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Motorola+Moto+360+Teardown/28891), those pogo pins are close and if they were separated from the plastic they'd work fine, a 3d printed separator would probly be necessary to keep the spacing right... I'll probably be designing the 3d printed separator piece soon, a nice piece ready to be made should be available soon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was kinda thinking of making one with one of these connectors -- maybe something that you could just push into the cavity where the watch band was that would have spring-loaded pins that would kinda click in and hold the connector snug -- although it is hard to tell if there'd be enough clearance for the whole plastic part to fit or if the connector pitch is correct.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/70AAJ-4-M0G/70AAJ-4-M0GTR-ND/761020
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/70ABJ-4-M0E/70ABJ-4-M0ETR-ND/2037594
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/70ADJ-4-ML1G/70ADJ-4-ML1GTR-ND/2537943
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/009155004002016/478-4675-2-ND/1687155
The thin wires like the ones made from that Ethernet connector look like they'd slip off too easily at an inopportune moment even though the contacts are slightly recessed into the holes, although even some right angle header pins like these would be better (or at least more rigid).
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/M20-9710646/952-2372-ND/3724334
Related
I managed to put together a google sketchup model of a galaxy nexus horizontal dock with extra battery charger. It has quite a ways to go but it is a nice start. I am going to get my buddy to print these out with his reprap printer this weekend and we will see what needs to be done.
Goals:
Use pogo pins to charge nexus
auto charge extra battery
have the dock hold the phone sturdy enough
*Update 2/16
I went to my friends house to get the parts printed out and lets just say it wasn't pretty. I haven't done any 3D printing before and it showed. I got some tips on what to change to get the part to work better in the printer and I will be spending some time this weekend fixing the model. The good news with this is that the new design should be extremely easy to change for different phones and phone shapes as all I will need to do is change the part that holds the phone, the rest of the dock can be reused.
Also I finished the schematic for the battery charging circuit. I will post a full schematic as well as a board layout when i actually put it up on a computer, right now its just a sketch in my notebook. The basics of the charging circuit is a National Instruments LP3947. This chip provides battery level monitoring which will allow the battery to charge to 100% and not overcharge or overheat. As for the power supply, I haven't decided yet. It is ether going to be a 2 amp plug or a 1 amp micro USB plug. The pogo pins are only rated for around 600mah and it is recommended to charge a battery at 500mah or less so I might just stick with using a micro USB plug to keep things easy.
* Update 2/18
I had to redesign the dock from scratch because as I stated before google sketchup isn't great for 3D printing and the model I tried to print failed pretty bad. I took my friend's advice and tried to chop it up into smaller pieces. I am going to print these out in a few hours and will post results this time. As for the schematic, I will get to that when I can. Getting a new model done was more important.
As you can see in the picture the dock is in a lot more pieces. Hopefully this means I can quickly redesign each part that is needed if something doesn't come out right in the print without having to print a whole new model. Also with more pieces anyone should be able to adjust this for any phone or case. The tray that holds the phone has room for another 3-5mm of thickness. I am not sure how much room there is width wise though.
* Update 2/19
Printed out a few parts, only two came out so I will give that another go when I have time.
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Planning on mass production? Count me in for 1
Whenever I get it.working I will post instructions
If this had solid build quality I would definitely be interested. Especially in pogo pin charging capabilities.
If you decided to make one that fits with the cruzer a2 cases, Id def be in for this. Id even throw 1 in for ya if you dont already have one so you can get the stats right.
solid idea! hope you make it happen with all these delays on the official dock.
I'm very interested. Especially if it can incorporate pogo pins.
Disregard this post
jonnyg1097 said:
Disregard this post
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why should you disregard this? I am trying to design something that people have been waiting samsung to do.
iankellogg said:
Why should you disregard this? I am trying to design something that people have been waiting samsung to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They ment their post, instead of deleting their post, they edited it
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
neederishelp said:
They ment their post, instead of deleting their post, they edited it
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh okay. I have never posted any of my projects before so I am hoping people's interest in this gets me to finish this faster than I normally do.
meental said:
Planning on mass production? Count me in for 1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been thinking about this for a few days and I am a bit worried that people won't like the printed plastic finish. Since I am basically only making this for myself I am going for function over form. I only have access to a RepRap 3D printer and my own PCB etching stuff, so no nice injected plastic. If people are still interested in buying one instead of just building one from my instructions that I post when I'm done we can talk then.
Very much looking forward to this! It's similar to something I'd love to do myself but I graduated in December so I no longer have access to my school's rapid prototyping lab.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA App
wish i had access to a 3D printer!
I'm sure there will be a lot of interest for this, since Samsung bailed, regardless of form.
If your printed version works well, and there is a lot of interest, you could try this place:
http://www.protomold.com/
iankellogg said:
Oh okay. I have never posted any of my projects before so I am hoping people's interest in this gets me to finish this faster than I normally do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea sorry about that, I ment my post that I made since it isnt possible to delete my post entirely I edited it to just ignore the one i made.
I love the concept and the thin profile of it. Good luck
Does anyone know where I can find the battery connector prebuilt? If I don't have to bend metal to make those tiny little clips that would make my life a ton easier.
iankellogg said:
Does anyone know where I can find the battery connector prebuilt? If I don't have to bend metal to make those tiny little clips that would make my life a ton easier.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/cat...ular-spring-loaded/1442900?k=battery contacts
Start there. From the best measurements I can take with my handy dandy metric ruler, looks like a 2.5mm spacing (pitch) between contacts and 4 contacts. Something like this, or exactly this, would work:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/009155004541006/478-5452-1-ND/2001013
msugeek said:
Start there. From the best measurements I can take with my handy dandy metric ruler, looks like a 2.5mm spacing (pitch) between contacts and 4 contacts. Something like this, or exactly this, would work:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Spacing is 3.0mm.
msugeek said:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/cat...ular-spring-loaded/1442900?k=battery contacts
Start there. From the best measurements I can take with my handy dandy metric ruler, looks like a 2.5mm spacing (pitch) between contacts and 4 contacts. Something like this, or exactly this, would work:
http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/009155004541006/478-5452-1-ND/2001013
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey thanks a bunch! I will give these a shot (I checked the spacing on the battery and it seems to be 3mm like the other posted stated)
I didn't want to clog/hijack THIS THREAD but the pin info and idea was very helpful. After waiting and waiting and waiting for official word of a charging dock that utilizes the pogo pins on the side, I've given up hope. And lets face it if you kill the usb port on this thing "you're screwed". so I really wanted to reduce my usb port usage and utilize a feature that comes with the device.
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My material list is 8 screws, 46 gauge guitar string, a strip of 1/2" playwood that happened to be ripped down to 2 1/2" in my garage, usb cable, piece of flat 1/8" thick plastic and a tiny bit of solder. The way that I screwed/bent the piece of guitar string gives the perfect amount of spring so that when the device is set both are compressed and make contact with the side of the device.
This was very spur of the moment and took me a half hour to build. And it works brilliantly. Yes I could have spent more time on design and material type and getting proper pogo pins. But I'm lazy and intent of this thread is spark ideas in other peoples heads. So now this masterpiece lives on my nightstand and I drop my galnex in at night and wake up to a full charge in the morning without having to use the usb port.
**edit** The pic of the lockscreen is in landscape using the Team Kang AOKP rom.
good day.
THIS is what I love to see here. Ingenuity. Looks good to me. I am thinking of putting some docks together here this weekend. One for the nightstand and one for the office.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA App
VERY awesome work. I love some hacked together ingenuity for sure, haha. I've had the car and desktop dock on order from Clove since December but I think I'll be cancelling the orders fairly soon and working up something on my own.
MacGyver would be proud
Terminators run on Android
Very nice!
Love it, nice work. Like you said, you could get some cheap pogo pins off digikey, but I like the character of your design.
Going to have to try this over the weekend. What is the third pin for on the phone?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
Zane_Grey said:
Going to have to try this over the weekend. What is the third pin for on the phone?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a decent, and probably relevant, read speculating on the function of the third pin on the Nexus One: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=631508
I love this, but I got some questions I'd like answered before attempting this.
1.For those of us without guitar string, would a paper clip bent into proper shape work well too?
2. What cable is that, that you were using just a power cord or was that usb?
3. You said it just sits on your night stand so does that mean you cant transfer data to your computer?
Also a video just going over it more or perhaps some more pics of the back there would be nice (at least for me) to see what is screwed around the screw.
jonnyg1097 said:
I love this, but I got some questions I'd like answered before attempting this.
1.For those of us without guitar string, would a paper clip bent into proper shape work well too?
2. What cable is that, that you were using just a power cord or was that usb?
3. You said it just sits on your night stand so does that mean you cant transfer data to your computer?
Also a video just going over it more or perhaps some more pics of the back there would be nice (at least for me) to see what is screwed around the screw.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. no idea, sorry. Check out the pogo pins though.
2. Thats a power cable, a usb would have a wire for data.
3. the pins don't transfer any information (well... the middle one does, but not anything useful to a pc) so transferring stuff would be impossible. (but thats what wifi is for)
This is beautiful and ugly at the same time.
One thing I would recommend is cutting out an area at the bottom of the phone so that you COULD attach a USB, OTG, or MHL cable if need-be. Perhaps that side of the dock could be shaped like a B, or notched to also allow access to the headphone port.
I would also maybe split out the power connection to a microUSB port to power MHL or other accessories. Or maybe just wire up a fullsize female USB to power another unit such as a bluetooth headset or whatever. It just would be nice to have a powered USB port just in case.
To the guy above, sure it may not look perfect but a coat of paint would spruce it up very well.
Overall A+
I might try my hand at something like this. I'm a cheap ass when it comes to buying crap for phones (since I go through them often). I have all the materials already with the exception of spare guitar strings but the paperclip idea sounds great and can be bent to size. I have some Poplar wood in my basement that would even look good with a heavy clear coat.
player911 said:
One thing I would recommend is cutting out an area at the bottom of the phone so that you COULD attach a USB, OTG, or MHL cable if need-be. Perhaps that side of the dock could be shaped like a B, or notched to also allow access to the headphone port.
I would also maybe split out the power connection to a microUSB port to power MHL or other accessories. Or maybe just wire up a fullsize female USB to power another unit such as a bluetooth headset or whatever. It just would be nice to have a powered USB port just in case.
To the guy above, sure it may not look perfect but a coat of paint would spruce it up very well.
Overall A+
I might try my hand at something like this. I'm a cheap ass when it comes to buying crap for phones (since I go through them often). I have all the materials already with the exception of spare guitar strings but the paperclip idea sounds great and can be bent to size. I have some Poplar wood in my basement that would even look good with a heavy clear coat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am thinking of attempting this as well. Except I dont have the wood to spare for this, so I am trying to look for a generic stand on ebay that would be possible to modify to fit at the least the pogo pins and at the most everything you mentioned. Because it would be a MHL adapter built in and ready to go.
Nice Job! Very creative use of guitar strings in lieu of pogo pins! I might have to try something like this...
jonnyg1097 said:
I am thinking of attempting this as well. Except I dont have the wood to spare for this, so I am trying to look for a generic stand on ebay that would be possible to modify to fit at the least the pogo pins and at the most everything you mentioned. Because it would be a MHL adapter built in and ready to go.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm looking for something generic too, something that came to my mind was some kind of business card holder. Just a thought I'd throw out there.
chuckdz3 said:
I'm looking for something generic too, something that came to my mind was some kind of business card holder. Just a thought I'd throw out there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make it out of Lego blocks! Dunno how you would keep the pins in place though..
4Pr3mier said:
Make it out of Lego blocks! Dunno how you would keep the pins in place though..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DUCT TAPE! (j/k) Gorrilla glue/super glue will work if you drill a small enough of a hole.
Or even some kind of poxy to hold it there. I might have to run to the Lego Store at the Mall of America to go buy me some Legos to build me a stand!
Munchys said:
DUCT TAPE! (j/k) Gorrilla glue/super glue will work if you drill a small enough of a hole.
Or even some kind of poxy to hold it there. I might have to run to the Lego Store at the Mall of America to go buy me some Legos to build me a stand!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol! Soo tempting to make a duct tape stand HA! I so totally need to restring my guitar and I already have some new strings.... (yells at wife) HONEY WHERE'S THE DUCT TAPE!!
For those looking for generic stands, I saw some on ebay that were just acrylic kinda in an "S" shape sort of deal that looked like could hold the nexus fully and was pretty modifiable.
Although than running a particular rom, has anyone found a way to get the GNex in to landscape mode while on a dock? I did a quick search and didn't find anything. On my D1 I used a magnet placed in a particular spot to force it into dock mode.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA App
Alright so by demand and as a newcomer gift to XDA, I will show you how to open up the Acer Iconia A100 tablet and how to replace the crappy microphone they provide with it, this thread is going to have pictures and is going to need a bit of organization skills and some soldering skills , so let's start
Before beginning note: make sure to work on a towel or something soft as the tablet will be upside down, I didn't use one and I got pretty bad scratches on my protector, as you will see in the last picture.
BEFORE BEGINNING NOTE #2 YAY!: I am in no way responsible of any damage to your device, your life, your marriage, your emotions, your cream cheese bagel order at Tim Horton's that wasn't discounted 18 cents, or your cat. So do this at your OWN risk.
Before beginning note #3: This will void your warranty....DUH. But I really don't care about mine because my slogan is "I VOID WARRANTIES "
Things you will need:
1) Set of small philips screwdrivers
2) Soldering iron
3) Solder (optional, not necessary as the mics have solder on them already)
4) Something to pry the plastic open with (I used my nail but you can use a flathead screwdriver...etc)
5) Another microphone you are going to use (preferably from a webcam/ headset, as they need to be the exact size or close to the original one)
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Now let's get to work.
Acer A100, great tablet, crappy battery and crappy mic.
In the next few images, I will pry off the plastic sides of the tablet, don't worry if you feel like they bend, just run your finger across and under the pieces until you hear all the snap ins snap out.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side:
Left side:
Alright, now that all the sides are off, let's get to the screws, there are 5 screws you have to get off, in these pictures you will see where they are.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side(NO SCREWS HERE, CARRY ON)
Left side:
Well now I really don't have to say it cause it's really obvious, grab your screw driver and get to work on these screws, make sure you put them on the side after you take em' out.
NOW FOR THE FUN PART , Really opening it up, get your nail ready, or whatever you're going to use for prying the plastic apart, and start SLOWLY prying the 2 pieces apart, CAREFULLY!
And now, completely take off the back cover (Don't worry, there's nothing connected to it, it's just an antenna)
AND BEHOLD, THE INTERNALS! (and that damned battery.....)
Alright now don't get too excited (I learned this the hard way...), there's a few things you must do first, look around and get familiar where everything is, and DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CONNECTOR!(Warning: as soon as you disconnect the battery, the whole tablet will shut down COMPLETELY, so make sure you save anything you haven't saved like game progress etc...then unplug it)
Now the left side is where the good stuff is at, so ignore everything else and just go to the left side.
Notice there is 3 connectors, the Microphone connector (black), some other connector (white and black), and some other connector (yellow), all of these have to go out, and once they are out there are 2 screws holding that small chip down in place, one black and one silver, these 2 have to go out too.
First connector (white and black), just open the small black tab and pull the flat thing out, should be really easy:
Second connector (yellow), this thing just pulls off the board, just easily lift it up:
and now remove the 2 screws and put them aside:
And now really gently pull the small board out, might need some wiggling around but it'll come out, it will be obstructed because the microphone is still in its place, but just lift the microphone out, it slides right out
So I accidentally deleted the rest of this post and lost all the images, but its pretty straight forward, just desolder the microphone, solder a new one on and pop everything back into place, make sure to put the battery connector on last and close up the tablet.
Enjoy your new microphone and hope this wasn't too long, please use the thanks button if it helped you
Man, As soon as I am able to risk opening up my A100 I so want to do this. Thanks, not only for doing it but for taking the time to take pics and post it all. You Rock!
You're very welcome, I had many more pics assembling it back, but I accidentally deleted them and lost all of it haha
Hey do you think this mic might work out? or do you have a part# for the one you used, or from what model webcam you took it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement...950292?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4ab6c51954
Well I tested 3 mics from 2 webcams and one headset, the headset was the Xbox live one and it sucked crap, and the 2 Logitech webcams were Logitech V-UM14 and V-UBC40, I settled for the one from the ubc40 as it seemed better than the um14.
About the Nokia one, I don't know if it would work as there are no solder points and you gotta take into consideration the size, both my webcams and the headset and the tablet had mics that were really close in size
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk
Nice, ok I'll scour the interwebz to get one. I don't really need it for now... but I know I'll get bored one of these days and I'll give this mod a try. Thanks.
Well if you ever do it, post which mic you use and if it works or not.
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk
great job man! time to find me a mic! whoop!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium
You are very welcome, feel free to tell everyone how it goes with the new mic
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk
Mic Dimensions
Anyone have the Mic dimensions? I'm going to try and order one from Digikey while I perform a screen repair on a friends tablet in the next week or two.
Having the dimensions and what type of connection used will help select the correct one. Is it a surface mount or are wires running to it?
Thanks
THANKS
My daughter dropped hers on the power plug and the power plug was fouled inside. I was worried I would not be able to replace the power adapter and sure enough, after reading your post with picks I realized I could buy the adapter for $15 and replace it myself. Worked like a champ! Again thanks for the picks, it really answered how to take it apart.
My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks
superfaker said:
My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1
pio_masaki said:
Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply !
I bought it in november 2011 so the warranty ended
I opened the a100
I remove the battery connector then pushed the power button several times (5 to 30 seconds)
i reconnect the battery & the powersupply to see if it will charge or power on > Didn't worked
so i was desperate, thinking of destroy the **************** tablet but i reassemble it
i retried to power on with the power button.....blue led on...acer a100 is booting
it's working for now, reset the tablet ....wait n see......
This is very interesting, that you would do this, ive contemplated it but ive sooner used a headset when necessery. I have a phone now though. Im gonna loom into revamping the battery. Now thatd be a mod
Sent from a Soviet base in Indiana
So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris
airbus318 said:
So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I think there are a few screws that hold it down and a plug. So once you open it up it is pretty easy.
Thanks will attempt.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
External Mic
Perhaps a silly question, but how difficult would it be to drill a small hole in the plastic near the microphone and solder wires to the mic location? And what would the max length of wire possible? Just rough guesses, I know it's pretty hard to be specific on stuff like that. Reason is that I have mine installed in my car as a head unit and was curious if I could run wire from the tablet to a mic mounted in the roof/headliner so that I could issue voice commands in a normal volume. I'd post a pic of my install but I don't have enough posts.
What could happen if i disconnect the other connectors first instead of the battery connector?
So I'm really missing wireless charging after having stuffed it into my GS3 and the Nexus 4 obviously having it built in. So... being that I still had 2 chargers and 2 pads left over, I've decided to begin modding the Moto X after seeing there was quite a bit of room in the bottom of the phone under the battery cover when I was replacing the woven black with a MotoMaker back. Here's the pre-fitting photos. I had to trim some of the foam away at the bottom, and still need to trace where exactly to place the wires for the charging. I'm guessing I'll have to solder directly to the back of the USB port. Where it sits will be a perfect angle, and should not interfere with NFC at all (Yay google wallet!)
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I'll be posting periodically with updates, although I don't know when I'll have more time as I have 2 infant daughters that demand much attention.
Awesome!
I've been missing qi charging as well, hopefully you get this to work.
Sent from my XT1058 using Tapatalk
icase81 said:
I'll be posting periodically with updates, although I don't know when I'll have more time as I have 2 infant daughters that demand much attention.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Curious to see how this goes. Even though I am quite sure the results will be positive.
Sub'd
I hope you don't abandon the idea and keep us updated. Seems like a worthy project!
Go OP! I can't wait to see success with this, so that I may be able to do this mod myself as well.
Exactly what I was hoping someone would do. Hopefully this works out and is simple enough to do. :good:
Looks awesome, OP!
On a side note - where did you get the MotoMaker back? I'd like to change my back to a custom-colored one eventually too, but I haven't been able to find any backs online.
terabyte128 said:
Looks awesome, OP!
On a side note - where did you get the MotoMaker back? I'd like to change my back to a custom-colored one eventually too, but I haven't been able to find any backs online.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can get them on ebay now. Been eyeing getting one but waiting for the wood backs.
Well this is awesome man...!!!!! :good:
Wow, god speed. I don't yet have a Moto X (still holding out for a wood back) but I'm so used to using those Palm wireless chargers on my current phone (SGS)! I have one at work and one at home on my nightstand. It's a perfect angle of inclination for my preference and the wireless charging works great. Are you having any problems putting the phone back together? I know they don't leave much room in there for something as thick as one of these chargers. And I guess if I eventually get the wood back that probably wouldn't make for an easy time getting it off :-/
I'd like to do this too, which coil receiver do you recommend?
Thanks,
Danny
dhoppy said:
I'd like to do this too, which coil receiver do you recommend?
Thanks,
Danny
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The one he is using in the images uses the Palm Touchstone charger, you can find a bunch of applicable coils on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/palm-wireless-charging I am fairly certain that this coil will only work on that Touchstone and is not compatible with QI or Powermat.
edit: I also highly recommend buying some tiny magnets (I bought 1/4" by 1/32" circular ones) instead of the metal disks that are included so you can get it to snap a lot better to the stand.
thanks
Anyone trying this should aim to have the charging coil as close to the camera as possible, the antennas are all in the lower back of the unit and you won't want to block them at all.
I have been looking at some wireless charging options myself. One of them is a small pad that should fit under most soft cases, it has a thin ribbon cable with a very low profile micro usb connector on the end. The better option is something like that but integrated internally. I haven't opened a Moto X yet to see how much space there is. What is the maximum thickness we can hope to have, is there anywhere near 1mm if we remove the silicone pad?
Everything I am looking at is Qi compatible.
I have also been studying high-res pictures of the inside of the Moto X looking for possible solder points for power, doesn't look too friendly at this point.
Steve-x said:
Anyone trying this should aim to have the charging coil as close to the camera as possible, the antennas are all in the lower back of the unit and you won't want to block them at all.
I have been looking at some wireless charging options myself. One of them is a small pad that should fit under most soft cases, it has a thin ribbon cable with a very low profile micro usb connector on the end. The better option is something like that but integrated internally. I haven't opened a Moto X yet to see how much space there is. What is the maximum thickness we can hope to have, is there anywhere near 1mm if we remove the silicone pad?
Everything I am looking at is Qi compatible.
I have also been studying high-res pictures of the inside of the Moto X looking for possible solder points for power, doesn't look too friendly at this point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is plenty of room towards the bottom and the silicone is maybe a mm in the thickest area. Insofar as blocking the antenna, I've never had issues with my sgs3 or note 2 with putting the coil over the antenna. However, with regards to solder points, you are right. This is not going to be easy without fully disassembling and finding either the microUSB solder points or the charging circuits entry points from the microUSB. I may be abandoning this if that's the case.
Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
Has anyone tried this (for the qi standard)? Thinking about giving it a shot.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universa...faultDomain_15&var&hash=item27db52d3fa&_uhb=1
the green man said:
Has anyone tried this (for the qi standard)? Thinking about giving it a shot.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universa...faultDomain_15&var&hash=item27db52d3fa&_uhb=1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That looks like it would be perfect to slip between the phone and a case, would bending it to conform to the back of the phone affect it's charging ability though? Or would it even be able to be bent?
"There is plenty of room towards the bottom and the silicone is maybe a mm in the thickest area. Insofar as blocking the antenna, I've never had issues with my sgs3 or note 2 with putting the coil over the antenna. However, with regards to solder points, you are right. This is not going to be easy without fully disassembling and finding either the microUSB solder points or the charging circuits entry points from the microUSB. I may be abandoning this if that's the case."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So how would one check to see which of the 4 prongs connected to the ribbon going to the battery are the correct +/- terminals. I've been studying over the iFixIt.com images to come up with a plan and I think if I can get a random wireless charging coil from eBay then cut that ribbon to fit into the 2 needed ports for the battery ribbon, then the only thing would be size/fitment under the back cover.
alk195 said:
That looks like it would be perfect to slip between the phone and a case, would bending it to conform to the back of the phone affect it's charging ability though? Or would it even be able to be bent?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It shouldn't matter. As long as the plug is in, and the pad is near the wireless charger.
This is kinda smart; can't believe this isn't widely known. I've never seen something like this.
alk195 said:
That looks like it would be perfect to slip between the phone and a case, would bending it to conform to the back of the phone affect it's charging ability though? Or would it even be able to be bent?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Someone has to be the guinea pig on this.. I would love to be able to slide this under a case.
Hello all, just got my parents the Moto G for Christmas and I went ahead and got them this car dock. It's super strong! The circular metal plate that comes with the dock is thin enough to slip in between the back cover and the battery. All I did was add a drop of super glue to keep it from moving around. Obviously it won't charge, you'll need to buy a standard car adapter, but for $25, I'm very impressed!
http://www.amazon.com/Cradle-less-Q...387844653&sr=1-1&keywords=iMagnet+Cradle-less
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That's interesting, wonder if the magnet affects battery life/reception or not.
Sent from my Moto G using XDA premium 4 mobile app
techguyone said:
That's interesting, wonder if the magnet affects battery life/reception or not.
Sent from my Moto G using XDA premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think so. I use a Nexus 5 with a LG Qi charger with some glued in neodymium magnets and I haven't had a problem with charging, reception, or battery. Of course that doesn't have a metal plate behind it. But with the Moto G, the metal plate wouldn't be touching the phone (presumably where the antennas lie), only the plastic back cover
Sadly the UK amazon & eBay don't seem to have any, I'll have to see if the US Amazon ship to UK
Sent from my Moto G using XDA premium 4 mobile app
I use a "wonder holder" her in the UK, same premise strong magnet, metal plate (although wonder holder's is smaller and neater)
Costs £5 from any petrol station pretty much. Seen them everywhere.
Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
I'm planning to make my own one (already bought all the needed parts, just gotta wait for them to arrive).
Is there a way to get the phone to go into car mode when docked with these?
dannyfritz said:
Is there a way to get the phone to go into car mode when docked with these?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tasker has magnetic field trigger that can be used in this scenario.
miklosbard said:
Tasker has magnetic field trigger that can be used in this scenario.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think that will work. There is a magnet placed in the phone too.
at least it works with my MotoG. You just have to specify a range of values that triggers the car mode (with and without the 'trigger_magnet'.
Sent from my MotoG
dannyfritz said:
I don't think that will work. There is a magnet placed in the phone too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the magnets used for the holder are much stronger than the one inside so it should work, but I haven't yet tested it myself
Sent from my phone
miklosbard said:
the magnets used for the holder are much stronger than the one inside so it should work, but I haven't yet tested it myself
Sent from my phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the thing you put inside the phone is actually just metal. The dock is magnetic. It works just how you described.
The dock is great.
glad you are happy I created a home made version of it, but haven't finished the part that gets into the car
Sent from my phone
miklosbard said:
glad you are happy I created a home made version of it, but haven't finished the part that gets into the car
Sent from my phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let us know, how your home made solution worked. Spending some $25 on a cradle is a bit too much for me...
Another thing is, does the navigation app shows the north direction properly with this type of magnetic dock?
suhridkhan said:
Let us know, how your home made solution worked. Spending some $25 on a cradle is a bit too much for me...
Another thing is, does the navigation app shows the north direction properly with this type of magnetic dock?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
actually I already tested it without the car. (put the magnets freely on a big steel plate, small layer of a used balloon rubber over them for traction. On the phone I only put a small layer of steel behind the cover, that's all.
during the test I just tapped the phones to the rubberized magnets and started to move the big steel plate in every direction with increasing force. It did hold even with putting so much force that could throw the phone like 20 meters.
Now I just need my car back from the shop so I can fit the holder to its final place.
If you are interested I can check for the exact type of magnets and provide screenshots about the final product
Sent from my phone
miklosbard said:
actually I already tested it without the car. (put the magnets freely on a big steel plate, small layer of a used balloon rubber over them for traction. On the phone I only put a small layer of steel behind the cover, that's all.
during the test I just tapped the phones to the rubberized magnets and started to move the big steel plate in every direction with increasing force. It did hold even with putting so much force that could throw the phone like 20 meters.
Now I just need my car back from the shop so I can fit the holder to its final place.
If you are interested I can check for the exact type of magnets and provide screenshots about the final product
Sent from my phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Much appreciated the info. Please let me know the type of magnet you bought. If it's online, please share the link with us.
Could you test the GPS with the magnet connected, if it shows the north properly?
Any Neodymium magnet will do.
Here's the one i bought : http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Edit:
You can even salvage an old/used/broken Harddrive as it contains two of them.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Pulling-apart-a-desktop-hard-drive-to-get-rare-ear/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Reusing-Old-Hard-Drive-Magnets/
Kameo said:
Any Neodymium magnet will do.
Here's the one i bought : http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Edit:
You can even salvage an old/used/broken Harddrive as it contains two of them.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Pulling-apart-a-desktop-hard-drive-to-get-rare-ear/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Reusing-Old-Hard-Drive-Magnets/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the magnets found in hard drives are just too weak to hold the phone during driving.
(I will test the compass tomorrow as I have my magnets at work right now)
Sent from my phone
I'm not sure about it.
I've seen a video where a guy test the magnet's strength with a whole bunch of keys which looks heavier than a phone.
You've got classes for those magnets, cheapest ones are usually N35, some of the strongest are N48. So basically if you put several N35 (like i'll do with my previous order) you'll end with strong ones.
Kameo said:
I'm not sure about it.
I've seen a video where a guy test the magnet's strength with a whole bunch of keys which looks heavier than a phone.
You've got classes for those magnets, cheapest ones are usually N35, some of the strongest are N48. So basically if you put several N35 (like i'll do with my previous order) you'll end with strong ones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
magnet size matters, and if you find a neodymium one in a hard drive it will be tiny like hell, otherwise it would kill it. Also don't forget that here we have the back panel between the magnets and the steel part and that requires much more force to hold the phone from this 'far'
Sent from my phone
---------- Post added at 04:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:47 PM ----------
these little parts are cut from a 1mm wide steel disk so they fit in the little holes in the back without adding bulk to the phone. As the holder part I used two 20x5mm round N35 magnets next to each other, one facing upside-down so they create a stronger loop. On them I put some rubber coating for traction (cut from party balloons).
Sent from my phone