Develop Bugs

WTH happend to my screen???

What's up with my lCD screen? I noticed tis weird deformation on the screen with the protector REMOVED! I don't remember dropping it onto the screen or pushing it in really hard or anything. It looks like water but when I apply pressure, it doesn't spread out. Anyone?
BTW, there's no scratches, dents cracks on the screen. I always used a screen protector and I never leave it in the sun for too long.
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I guess they are air bubble, they get stuck between your screen and screen protector
Mine have a same like yours, but it's smaller

DADDYDC650 said:
What's up with my lCD screen? I noticed tis weird deformation on the screen. I don't remember dropping it onto the screen or pushing it in really hard or anything. Anyone?
BTW, there's no scratches, dents cracks on the screen. I always used a screen protector and I never leave it in the sun for too long.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that pic is with the screen protector REMOVED, correct? otherwise, its just a part of the protector that has become air tight or "sealed" to ur screen. removing and replacing the protector should work until it happens again lol.

The pic is with the protector removed sadly...

DADDYDC650 said:
The pic is with the protector removed sadly...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hhhhmmm.... doesnt sound good brotha...

uncleswoop said:
hhhhmmm.... doesnt sound good brotha...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know it's not good because the phone won't even turn on anymore. I'm wondering as to WTH it is....

DADDYDC650 said:
I know it's not good because the phone won't even turn on anymore. I'm wondering as to WTH it is....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
maybe a moisture problem. might as well take it in and see whats up if you get nothin usefull here

uncleswoop said:
maybe a moisture problem. might as well take it in and see whats up if you get nothin usefull here
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already sent it in for repairs. I hope I'm not at fault otherwise they'll charge me for the replacement phone. I never got the phone wet...

push around the edges of the screen, I had the same problem with my old diamond. having it in my pocket at work sometimes it would get a lot of pressure on on point on the screen causing this. it should spread out depending on where you press on the screen around the "bubble" thing
sometimes I had to use my stylus and drag across the bubble to try to stretch it until it dispersed. be careful not to press too hard with the stylus cause it might scratch the screen, but you'll know if your pressin too hard.

Mine has this as well. It seems after having it in my pocket over the last 6 months or so this happened. It isn't moisture but I think its just the built in plastic cover over the lcd sticking. This also happened to my original tilt. I don't think there is any way to fix it.

brent_si said:
Mine has this as well. It seems after having it in my pocket over the last 6 months or so this happened. It isn't moisture but I think its just the built in plastic cover over the lcd sticking. This also happened to my original tilt. I don't think there is any way to fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope T-Mobile doesn't get the phone running again and if they do, hopefully they don't decide to charge me for the replacement phone since I was running a custom ROM.

DADDYDC650 said:
I hope T-Mobile doesn't get the phone running again and if they do, hopefully they don't decide to charge me for the replacement phone since I was running a custom ROM.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is a "newton ring", there have been some threads on this topic. It's a defect in the LCD.
Did you flash back to T-Mobile stock before sending it back in?

stevedebi said:
It is a "newton ring", there have been some threads on this topic. It's a defect in the LCD.
Did you flash back to T-Mobile stock before sending it back in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't. It won't power back on...

Not even in bootloader? Well then Tmobile wont be able to get it back on. I've killed several phones for warranty purposes for my users. Not exactly ethical but everyone had a compelling reason... and insofar noone has come back to tell me "guess what"

devis said:
Not even in bootloader? Well then Tmobile wont be able to get it back on. I've killed several phones for warranty purposes for my users. Not exactly ethical but everyone had a compelling reason... and insofar noone has come back to tell me "guess what"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hope you are right. Thanks bud.

Just Send it back
Send your phone back. i had an bubble like that on my touch pro2 for about two month and finally it cause my touch screen to stop working. The Tp2 has a screen protector over it touch sensor to protect it, when the screen protector cave in, like it did in the pic it would cause the touch sensor to go off recognizing it as someone touching the screen... and since the TP2 not multi you won't be able to use your phone. i basically had to lift the protector up to hint send.... but the funny part is the TP2 won't work without it so u can't just take it off. its like the protector have nerve in it that only the tp2 can recognize

BeEazy10 said:
Send your phone back. i had an bubble like that on my touch pro2 for about two month and finally it cause my touch screen to stop working. The Tp2 has a screen protector over it touch sensor to protect it, when the screen protector cave in, like it did in the pic it would cause the touch sensor to go off recognizing it as someone touching the screen... and since the TP2 not multi you won't be able to use your phone. i basically had to lift the protector up to hint send.... but the funny part is the TP2 won't work without it so u can't just take it off. its like the protector have nerve in it that only the tp2 can recognize
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm getting the replacement phone today. I'm hoping T-Mobile won't be able to turn my phone on in time to notice that I was running a custom ROM. Don't want to be charged for the replacement....

DADDYDC650 said:
I'm getting the replacement phone today. I'm hoping T-Mobile won't be able to turn my phone on in time to notice that I was running a custom ROM. Don't want to be charged for the replacement....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
oh no thats not good at all man, but im sure they won't be able to turn it on, I know from experience .

BeEazy10 said:
oh no thats not good at all man, but im sure they won't be able to turn it on, I know from experience .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LoL! Nice!

How to tear open the A100 and switch out the microphone module

Alright so by demand and as a newcomer gift to XDA, I will show you how to open up the Acer Iconia A100 tablet and how to replace the crappy microphone they provide with it, this thread is going to have pictures and is going to need a bit of organization skills and some soldering skills , so let's start
Before beginning note: make sure to work on a towel or something soft as the tablet will be upside down, I didn't use one and I got pretty bad scratches on my protector, as you will see in the last picture.
BEFORE BEGINNING NOTE #2 YAY!: I am in no way responsible of any damage to your device, your life, your marriage, your emotions, your cream cheese bagel order at Tim Horton's that wasn't discounted 18 cents, or your cat. So do this at your OWN risk.
Before beginning note #3: This will void your warranty....DUH. But I really don't care about mine because my slogan is "I VOID WARRANTIES "
Things you will need:
1) Set of small philips screwdrivers
2) Soldering iron
3) Solder (optional, not necessary as the mics have solder on them already)
4) Something to pry the plastic open with (I used my nail but you can use a flathead screwdriver...etc)
5) Another microphone you are going to use (preferably from a webcam/ headset, as they need to be the exact size or close to the original one)
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Now let's get to work.
Acer A100, great tablet, crappy battery and crappy mic.
In the next few images, I will pry off the plastic sides of the tablet, don't worry if you feel like they bend, just run your finger across and under the pieces until you hear all the snap ins snap out.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side:
Left side:
Alright, now that all the sides are off, let's get to the screws, there are 5 screws you have to get off, in these pictures you will see where they are.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side(NO SCREWS HERE, CARRY ON)
Left side:
Well now I really don't have to say it cause it's really obvious, grab your screw driver and get to work on these screws, make sure you put them on the side after you take em' out.
NOW FOR THE FUN PART , Really opening it up, get your nail ready, or whatever you're going to use for prying the plastic apart, and start SLOWLY prying the 2 pieces apart, CAREFULLY!
And now, completely take off the back cover (Don't worry, there's nothing connected to it, it's just an antenna)
AND BEHOLD, THE INTERNALS! (and that damned battery.....)
Alright now don't get too excited (I learned this the hard way...), there's a few things you must do first, look around and get familiar where everything is, and DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CONNECTOR!(Warning: as soon as you disconnect the battery, the whole tablet will shut down COMPLETELY, so make sure you save anything you haven't saved like game progress etc...then unplug it)
Now the left side is where the good stuff is at, so ignore everything else and just go to the left side.
Notice there is 3 connectors, the Microphone connector (black), some other connector (white and black), and some other connector (yellow), all of these have to go out, and once they are out there are 2 screws holding that small chip down in place, one black and one silver, these 2 have to go out too.
First connector (white and black), just open the small black tab and pull the flat thing out, should be really easy:
Second connector (yellow), this thing just pulls off the board, just easily lift it up:
and now remove the 2 screws and put them aside:
And now really gently pull the small board out, might need some wiggling around but it'll come out, it will be obstructed because the microphone is still in its place, but just lift the microphone out, it slides right out
So I accidentally deleted the rest of this post and lost all the images, but its pretty straight forward, just desolder the microphone, solder a new one on and pop everything back into place, make sure to put the battery connector on last and close up the tablet.
Enjoy your new microphone and hope this wasn't too long, please use the thanks button if it helped you

Man, As soon as I am able to risk opening up my A100 I so want to do this. Thanks, not only for doing it but for taking the time to take pics and post it all. You Rock!

You're very welcome, I had many more pics assembling it back, but I accidentally deleted them and lost all of it haha

Hey do you think this mic might work out? or do you have a part# for the one you used, or from what model webcam you took it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement...950292?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4ab6c51954

Well I tested 3 mics from 2 webcams and one headset, the headset was the Xbox live one and it sucked crap, and the 2 Logitech webcams were Logitech V-UM14 and V-UBC40, I settled for the one from the ubc40 as it seemed better than the um14.
About the Nokia one, I don't know if it would work as there are no solder points and you gotta take into consideration the size, both my webcams and the headset and the tablet had mics that were really close in size
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk

Nice, ok I'll scour the interwebz to get one. I don't really need it for now... but I know I'll get bored one of these days and I'll give this mod a try. Thanks.

Well if you ever do it, post which mic you use and if it works or not.
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk

great job man! time to find me a mic! whoop!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium

You are very welcome, feel free to tell everyone how it goes with the new mic
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk

Mic Dimensions
Anyone have the Mic dimensions? I'm going to try and order one from Digikey while I perform a screen repair on a friends tablet in the next week or two.
Having the dimensions and what type of connection used will help select the correct one. Is it a surface mount or are wires running to it?
Thanks

THANKS
My daughter dropped hers on the power plug and the power plug was fouled inside. I was worried I would not be able to replace the power adapter and sure enough, after reading your post with picks I realized I could buy the adapter for $15 and replace it myself. Worked like a champ! Again thanks for the picks, it really answered how to take it apart.

My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks

superfaker said:
My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1

pio_masaki said:
Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply !
I bought it in november 2011 so the warranty ended
I opened the a100
I remove the battery connector then pushed the power button several times (5 to 30 seconds)
i reconnect the battery & the powersupply to see if it will charge or power on > Didn't worked
so i was desperate, thinking of destroy the **************** tablet but i reassemble it
i retried to power on with the power button.....blue led on...acer a100 is booting
it's working for now, reset the tablet ....wait n see......

This is very interesting, that you would do this, ive contemplated it but ive sooner used a headset when necessery. I have a phone now though. Im gonna loom into revamping the battery. Now thatd be a mod
Sent from a Soviet base in Indiana

So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris

airbus318 said:
So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I think there are a few screws that hold it down and a plug. So once you open it up it is pretty easy.

Thanks will attempt.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

External Mic
Perhaps a silly question, but how difficult would it be to drill a small hole in the plastic near the microphone and solder wires to the mic location? And what would the max length of wire possible? Just rough guesses, I know it's pretty hard to be specific on stuff like that. Reason is that I have mine installed in my car as a head unit and was curious if I could run wire from the tablet to a mic mounted in the roof/headliner so that I could issue voice commands in a normal volume. I'd post a pic of my install but I don't have enough posts.

What could happen if i disconnect the other connectors first instead of the battery connector?

Opened up my One X...

Got it open no problem, using fingernails and an old mastercard.
I do not recommend anyone do this unless they are very familiar with doing similar tasks - there are a number of things that can go wrong and some very delicate connections that will break easily.
Been trying all the PWR, Vol+/- combos and plugging it into my PC via USB. Nothing happens, at all. Is this useful info? No device is seen.
Even tried a dummy SIM to push a small contact switch closed at the bottom of the SIM socket, still no effect.
I've taken some photos, and identified the various antennas if anyone is interested. I will add them shortly.
Update:
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http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1643532
Put the stuff in there bud, already similar topic. Easier for people to keep track.
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium

twistedh said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1643532
Put the stuff in there bud, already similar topic. Easier for people to keep track.
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that topic is full off, warranty crap i would read the s-off development and see if anything is in there.

i opened mine, its quite hard to initially get the screen to pop out, i wouldnt recomend using anything other than finger nails or you will damage something
after you opened it the Power button and Vol button will fall out, dont dop them!
the power button and vol button have a certain orientation, took me ages to realise that the power button only fit one way
removing the mainboard is quite hard, you have to void the warranty and there is a connector that is allmost impossible to get off(next to the battery)
oh and when you pull the mainboard up it gets disconnected from the power button ribbon, so make sure you un-glue the internal power button (pull it up) before pulling up the mainboard
so yeah its hard

Question: What's the pinhole above the headset connector for? Where do you get through that? It's a microphone or not?
Thanx!

AliceXES said:
Question: What's the pinhole above the headset connector for? Where do you get through that? It's a microphone or not?
Thanx!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the second mic, for noise cancellation.

Dave Trouser said:
It's the second mic, for noise cancellation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe it's also used for the secondary (stereo) audio channel in One X video capture.

knoxploration said:
I believe it's also used for the secondary (stereo) audio channel in One X video capture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, I forgot about that Although going by what some are saying, it doesn't record proper stereo anyway...

Dave Trouser said:
Yep, I forgot about that Although going by what some are saying, it doesn't record proper stereo anyway...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I've seen several reports of that too. Haven't tested myself though, mostly because until the stuttering / dropped frames are fixed, the video capture isn't really useful to me...

According to you is simple fot a noob replace a scratch screen?

acer73 said:
According to you is simple fot a noob replace a scratch screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's already been answered before: no. At least, not cheaply. The Gorilla cover glass is bonded in place, so replacing it will realistically involve replacing the entire screen assembly, which is a significant portion of the phone. (And good luck getting a replacement part that's not itself damaged.)

So how easy is it to replace the battery?

The Asgard said:
So how easy is it to replace the battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tricky, but possible. The average user would mess it up though. If the connector were located differently, I'd say most could do it. But the connector is on the side of the board facing the screen, so it has to be lifted off to disconnect the battery.
The one major thing that would stop people doing this safely is the small power switch connection under the board that pops off (should be manually disconnected!) when the board is raised more than about 5mm. Assuming the user gets that far and the connector ribbon is not damaged from the pulling, the user then faces the challenge of reconnecting it - and they must or the phone will not power on! It can only be done when the board is almost back in place, using some very small tweezers and quite some skill.
The battery connector itself is relatively easy, but as I mentioned in another post, it comes off differently than you might expect, which leaves room for damage if it is forced. The battery itself is glued down, so must be forced off - again a risk for the inexperienced as you could damage the battery if excessive force is used from the wrong point, or worse, you could damage the delicate ribbon cables that lie under it if you try and pry it off with something by sliding under it.
So in summary: it is possible but only if you have experience with disassembling similar devices and putting them back properly. The margin for error is thin.

acer73 said:
According to you is simple fot a noob replace a scratch screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely not. I'm not sure I'd even try that myself without having the proper service manual - there are too many things to go wrong.

Dave Trouser said:
Absolutely not. I'm not sure I'd even try that myself without having the proper service manual - there are too many things to go wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You shouldnt have done that...
Lol just kidding!
Is that a connector farther to the top from the pogo pins near the WiFi label you placed? its only one piece but could be our magic lock.
Edit: on zooming in it looks more like a screw.
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

can you had a video, opening the HOX ?

vladnosferatu said:
can you had a video, opening the HOX ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, because then people with zero skill will copy it and break their HOX and then blame me. If you can't work it out from the Chinese tear down photos, then you lack the skill needed to avoid doing damage.
Also, I don't have time to make a video anyway

just create ananonymous youtube acc, create a video and voila, let em blame you all they want. you are on the net aNd anonymous so no big deal

shadehh said:
just create ananonymous youtube acc, create a video and voila, let em blame you all they want. you are on the net aNd anonymous so no big deal
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
exactly

Mmm disassembling pr0n
Sent from my GT-P1000 using xda premium

Screen flickering issue has resulted to a permanent green tint Tab S 8.4

I do have one of the issues where the Tab S 8.4 would suddenly flicker and shutdown. It has been restarting for months, then after several months a green tint appeared throughout the whole display. At first, the issue of the green tint would easily be solved by inserting a bit of pressure on the top area of the display, it keeps on persisting every hour and all I do is insert a bit pressure to return to its original color. Finally, after 2 days the green tint has become permanent. The display would only return to its original color if you keep on holding on the top area and applying pressure OR if I directly point the air conditioning to the tablet for it to be very cold. I don't know why the tablet would return to its original color once it gets very very cold but hopefully it could mean that the display isn't completely broken.
I would just ask if anyone here has the same problem(or other device with amoled). Hopefully you could help me shed light to my problem. The display is completely fine if you would apply some pressure. Presumably other factors could be making the display go green.

It is most likely loose connectors, like display cable and battery cable, A lot of 8.4" owners have problem with flickering screen that was caused by a bad battery connection, I suppose the display cable could come loose as well, You can find guides on youtube on how to open the 8.4" so you can check the connectors, remove and replace them and see if it makes a difference.
John.

You're not alone...
carlchan31 said:
I do have one of the issues where the Tab S 8.4 would suddenly flicker and shutdown. It has been restarting for months, then after several months a green tint appeared throughout the whole display. At first, the issue of the green tint would easily be solved by inserting a bit of pressure on the top area of the display, it keeps on persisting every hour and all I do is insert a bit pressure to return to its original color. Finally, after 2 days the green tint has become permanent. The display would only return to its original color if you keep on holding on the top area and applying pressure OR if I directly point the air conditioning to the tablet for it to be very cold. I don't know why the tablet would return to its original color once it gets very very cold but hopefully it could mean that the display isn't completely broken.
I would just ask if anyone here has the same problem(or other device with amoled). Hopefully you could help me shed light to my problem. The display is completely fine if you would apply some pressure. Presumably other factors could be making the display go green.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine is suffering the same display problem. It is not linked to the display connector, but there must be a defective connexion somewhere on the screen surface... I haven't tried to completely disassemble the thing to see what's going on after the screen connector.
Replacement display are quite expensive.... So any other solution is welcome.

Tinderbox (UK) said:
It is most likely loose connectors, like display cable and battery cable, A lot of 8.4" owners have problem with flickering screen that was caused by a bad battery connection, I suppose the display cable could come loose as well, You can find guides on youtube on how to open the 8.4" so you can check the connectors, remove and replace them and see if it makes a difference.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure if the cable of the LCD can be replaced but if there is any way I'll be really thankful

sunbowch said:
Mine is suffering the same display problem. It is not linked to the display connector, but there must be a defective connexion somewhere on the screen surface... I haven't tried to completely disassemble the thing to see what's going on after the screen connector.
Replacement display are quite expensive.... So any other solution is welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try to replace the battery with a brand new one. Do you think it would work? I was really hoping that it would be fix without replacing the LCD

carlchan31 said:
I'll try to replace the battery with a brand new one. Do you think it would work? I was really hoping that it would be fix without replacing the LCD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A bad battery or bad battery connection usually makes the screen flicker, I have never seen it make the screen change colour, I would says you have a faulty display or a loose or faulty display cable.
John.

Mine did this shortly after I bought it back in 2015. Screen was replaced under warranty, and no problems since.

i use mine as a permanent car install. when temperatures fall below zero and i start my car the screen is green or better all greys turn to a light green. as soon as the tab heats up a bit the screen behaves as normal again. dont know if this helps in any way.

I have the same problem, if someone finds a solution for this.
Please let us know tia
I am talking about a solution other than warranty or screen replacement

Found this display pin for tab s 8.4 https://www.screenfix.ie/product/sa...t700-t705-display-2x20-pin-fpc-connector-d37/
Would this work if I bring this to my local technician?

Edit: i just realised that OP's tablet is a tab s 8.4 (Facepalm)
well.. it might be related ?... the 8.4 have a strange pad too :/
--------------------------------------------
It might be high temperature related, i think.
When i was making my heatsink mod i removed a kind of rubber pad that is sitting in the back of the PCB, with no apparent function.
This pad links the PCB with the back cover, that has a thin aluminium foil (for isolation and temp dissipation, i believe)
After some minutes on, my screen started flickering like crazy with a strange color balance (it was not all green, but the colors are far from normal) after a while the tab always restarted.
Putting the pad back solved the problem.
I think that it explain the fact it get better if you make pressure on the back. probably your back cover is a bit loose, not making proper contact with that PCB.
Even that it doesn't looks like a thermal pad, it have some important function apparently... maybe a cheap workaround samsung used for a screen controller overheating issue ?
Image showing what i'm talking about:
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[HELP] Screen Freak Out When Display Small Line Of Pixel / Vertical

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My screen is working perfectly fine i try to test display all type video work just normal but it just flickering these rainbow / vertical line when i come close to let say smaller pixel like display shot with camera ... or picture with smaller pixel dots....

Have you found a solution? I have the same permanent vertical lines.

Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?

xfim said:
Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?
Click to expand...
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OK, good thought, I will open up the phone and check the connections.

Babakkardan said:
OK, good thought, I will open up the phone and check the connections.
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You know which one is it, right? The wider one on the bottom. Pry it up (use nails if you wish) and use some alcohol to clean it up.

xfim said:
Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?
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Babakkardan said:
Have you found a solution? I have the same permanent vertical lines.
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Abandoned War Place said:
My screen is working perfectly fine i try to test display all type video work just normal but it just flickering these rainbow / vertical line when i come close to let say smaller pixel like display shot with camera ... or picture with smaller pixel dots....
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This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.

jdmst77 said:
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.
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Click to collapse
Baking it isnt a good idea. you might damage working things in the process. Usually the RAM chip is the main problem. Check if it is bent a bit on the edges. To test if ram is the problem, put something (aluminum foil, 1mm thermal pad...) on the chip so that it puts pressure on the disconnected areas and reconnects them.

xfim said:
Baking it isnt a good idea. you might damage working things in the process. Usually the RAM chip is the main problem. Check if it is bent a bit on the edges. To test if ram is the problem, put something (aluminum foil, 1mm thermal pad...) on the chip so that it puts pressure on the disconnected areas and reconnects them.
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sure, it could damage it, but it didn't. For a "completely broken" blue screened device that I purchased for $22.40 off ebay (solely for the display, to fix another device) I had nothing to lose. if it's not done right, anything can happen but I took extra precautions like folded aluminum foil in a sort of accordion like wave pattern so no points are directly sitting on the metal rack. Left ample time for the board to cool before flipping it and before reinserting it into the phone.
Can't argue with the results and people have been baking logic/motherboards for quite some time now just google it and it doesn't hurt to take extra precautions
EDIT: also after removing from the oven, I placed the board between 2 silicone trivets and lightly pressed them together to re-seat any chips/components, on the board

jdmst77 said:
sure, it could damage it, but it didn't. For a "completely broken" blue screened device that I purchased for $22.40 off ebay (solely for the display, to fix another device) I had nothing to lose. if it's not done right, anything can happen but I took extra precautions like folded aluminum foil in a sort of accordion like wave pattern so no points are directly sitting on the metal rack. Left ample time for the board to cool before flipping it and before reinserting it into the phone.
Can't argue with the results and people have been baking logic/motherboards for quite some time now just google it and it doesn't hurt to take extra precautions
EDIT: also after removing from the oven, I placed the board between 2 silicone trivets and lightly pressed them together to re-seat any chips/components, on the board
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You did a good job then. Anyway, I would bake the board as a last resort. I'd try a few different things before (heating individual chips)

jdmst77 said:
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Instead if baking the board, how about putting solder paste on the connectors of the cpu & gpu and heating them with a heat gun? Will it give the same result?
---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------
xfim said:
You know which one is it, right? The wider one on the bottom. Pry it up (use nails if you wish) and use some alcohol to clean it up.
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I think I'll take it to a repairman and have him diagnose it... then if necessary he can use a heat gun to reset the solders on the cpu & gpu....
Update:
I took the G3 to a repair shop, we reset the connections and did the resoldering of the gpu and cpu. But no change in the display lines. The technician deduces it is a damaged display, especially since there is a lot of heat on the CPU area on the display now.
Any other solutions I can try before changing the display?
thanks.