Develop Bugs

My Evo Speaker Back-lit mods and More!

Hey guys,
Thought I might post about my HTC EVO Back-lit speaker mod and other things done to my phone physically.
My Blog does show it best:
http://doesitpew.blogspot.com/2011/03/htc-evo-4g-mods-beyond-stock-and-one-of.html
However, here are the Pics of the Speaker Mod!
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You can see that now my phone has a Back-lit Speaker port! This is made using a PCB using a simple Resistor/LED serial connection. For those without aa thicker cover, this is still possible because the LED circuit is the same size as the speaker port (though it will muffle with a normal back) or you can put it in the back area of the headphone port.
My reason for this is I am a girl, so I put my phone in my purse when moving about. DO YOU KNOW HOW IMPOSSIBLE IT IS TO FIND YOUR PHONE IN A DARK PURSE? This solves that without being too bright. Also, do not worry as it uses almost no battery and will continue to shine, even if the phone does not have enough voltage to run as this needs only 2.0v to have full illumination! Also, doe not violate the warranty as you do not have to crack open the phone to install, just wrap the wire around the spring loaded battery connections! To connect, just use the FAR RIGHT AND FAR LEFT of the 4 pins, otherwise your phone will get very angry with you and will not charge. Tape is used to diffuse the light.
The red is the base plastic of the phone (used to be covered with black rubberized paint). This has been initially removed by using the back of a razor blade and then finished with plastic polish using a dremel.
Finally finished off with a $7 shipped eBay extended battery with cover.

Nice work!
Sent from my hand with XDA Premium installed

ok, but why in the hell would you need a backlit speaker? edit: i see now that i read your whole post.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA Premium App

Its cosmetic and slightly functional. great for those of us with shallow pockets and dark couches!

Kinda cool. Checked out your blog. Some nice engineering and creativity on there. Love the Link and Kirby post-it art.

Niiiiiiiiice !!!!!
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App

Childofthehorn said:
Hey guys,
Thought I might post about my HTC EVO Back-lit speaker mod and other things done to my phone physically.
My Blog does show it best:
http://doesitpew.blogspot.com/2011/03/htc-evo-4g-mods-beyond-stock-and-one-of.html
However, here are the Pics of the Speaker Mod!
You can see that now my phone has a Back-lit Speaker port! This is made using a PCB using a simple Resistor/LED serial connection. For those without aa thicker cover, this is still possible because the LED circuit is the same size as the speaker port (though it will muffle with a normal back) or you can put it in the back area of the headphone port.
My reason for this is I am a girl, so I put my phone in my purse when moving about. DO YOU KNOW HOW IMPOSSIBLE IT IS TO FIND YOUR PHONE IN A DARK PURSE? This solves that without being too bright. Also, do not worry as it uses almost no battery and will continue to shine, even if the phone does not have enough voltage to run as this needs only 2.0v to have full illumination! Also, doe not violate the warranty as you do not have to crack open the phone to install, just wrap the wire around the spring loaded battery connections! To connect, just use the FAR RIGHT AND FAR LEFT of the 4 pins, otherwise your phone will get very angry with you and will not charge. Tape is used to diffuse the light.
The red is the base plastic of the phone (used to be covered with black rubberized paint). This has been initially removed by using the back of a razor blade and then finished with plastic polish using a dremel.
Finally finished off with a $7 shipped eBay extended battery with cover.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i notice u have one of those ebay batteries. how is it working for u?

Cheap Battery that does a good extra two and a half above stock out of the box. great deal

you're my kinda girl ;]

Cool mod.
Use your handy dandy DMM to check polarity & voltages?

On the battery or the LED?
Basically, the battery will keep the phone on from a peak of 4.2V and low of about 3.3-3.4 depending on what your setup is. Now, where the led is hooked up is after the battery charging circuit that brings down the voltage to 4.0-4.2V from 5V (again depending on if you have 002 hardware or later versions). That means that this battery will essentially show the same brightness from 3-4Volts and my choice of resistor for this was 103ohm as it was not too bright, but bright enough. The light will show down to 2V with decent brightness, at the limits of the discharge circuitry in your battery (stock cuts itself, the chinese ones do not and do allow overcharging).
You do not need a DMM or Scope for this (even though I love my DSO Nano V2, always in my purse for when I need it!)

BTW: Here is the cheapest on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...921654&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_2524wt_998
Shipping was MUCH faster than listed, arrived in less than a week!

Childofthehorn said:
BTW: Here is the cheapest on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...921654&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_2524wt_998
Shipping was MUCH faster than listed, arrived in less than a week!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You said you are getting 2 hours above stock... how many hours are we talking because usage varies from user to user. Just curious.

Mostly data usage. I am a data user more than talk. This means web-surfing and internet connected games/apps.

Childofthehorn said:
Mostly data usage. I am a data user more than talk. This means web-surfing and internet connected games/apps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
right, but what i mean is what did you get stock (now is stock +2hrs). So, I understand you are getting increased battery life but I am still wondering what you are getting, on avg.
Thnx!

Nicely done.

I likey! I have some extra SMD's laying around from when I changed the lights on the dash of my car to all be one color. I have to take my phone apart anyway to change my cracked digitizer and replace the exterior housing, so I may just do this in the process.
Thanks for the info!

Childofthehorn said:
You do not need a DMM or Scope for this (even though I love my DSO Nano V2, always in my purse for when I need it!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Nanos are very cool

Ordered my e bay battery a few days ago. Once it arrives I will be doing this.
Sent from my PC36100 using XDA App

Do you notice a difference in battery life?

Using extended battery's cover's extra space for better thermal behaviour

So guys,yesterday my extended battery(original Sammy 2000mAh one) came and,apart from all the other things I noticed,I noticed that there is a "gap" around the camera.What I mean is that there is space between the battery cover and the phone's back.Now,one thing I noticed was that the phone didn't get as hot anymore,probably because the plastic cover isn't in direct contact with the phone's back(where the CPU and GPU are housed) and air acts like some sort of coolant.
What I was thinking is,if we could fill that empty space(with the Honeycomb-like holes) with some thermal conductor(was thinking of thermal grease,the one we use in PC CPUs) and covering it with a little metallic...something,like thin aluminum sheets.Maybe that way,the phone's heat dissipation would be somewhat better.What do you guys think?Maybe this is all a big pile of bull**** I came into thinking,but maybe it's not bull****.

tolis626 said:
So guys,yesterday my extended battery(original Sammy 2000mAh one) came and,apart from all the other things I noticed,I noticed that there is a "gap" around the camera.What I mean is that there is space between the battery cover and the phone's back.Now,one thing I noticed was that the phone didn't get as hot anymore,probably because the plastic cover isn't in direct contact with the phone's back(where the CPU and GPU are housed) and air acts like some sort of coolant.
What I was thinking is,if we could fill that empty space(with the Honeycomb-like holes) with some thermal conductor(was thinking of thermal grease,the one we use in PC CPUs) and covering it with a little metallic...something,like thin aluminum sheets.Maybe that way,the phone's heat dissipation would be somewhat better.What do you guys think?Maybe this is all a big pile of bull**** I came into thinking,but maybe it's not bull****.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, what you're suggesting is adding some metallic plates to form some sort of heat sink. It will not work. In PCs heat sinks work because they work as a conduit for the heat and then the fan would blow at the heat sink to carry away the access heat. Unless you can fit both the fans and metallic plates into the battery case, its a no go. Drilling holes in the battery cover would however help heat dissipation though I'd imagine it wouldn't look pretty.

lambstone said:
Nope, what you're suggesting is adding some metallic plates to form some sort of heat sink. It will not work. In PCs heat sinks work because they work as a conduit for the heat and then the fan would blow at the heat sink to carry away the access heat. Unless you can fit both the fans and metallic plates into the battery case, its a no go. Drilling holes in the battery cover would however help heat dissipation though I'd imagine it wouldn't look pretty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well,I thought about the holes too,but I don't want my phone to look like it was hit by bullets.
I have to say one thing.Heat dissipation sucks when there is no metal.Although I have to admit that the new cover makes things better,it's still not perfect.
Any ideas on this are accepted.

tolis626 said:
Well,I thought about the holes too,but I don't want my phone to look like it was hit by bullets.
I have to say one thing.Heat dissipation sucks when there is no metal.Although I have to admit that the new cover makes things better,it's still not perfect.
Any ideas on this are accepted.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By the way, I was bumming about the forums and found references to this particular case.
Polar Bear Case
I know. Polar Bear... but it does look interesting as it claims to have integrated a heat sink.Seems more feasible as the heat sink is directly in contact with the environment as compared to your original idea of having the heat sink inside the cover. Then I had a thought. Why not mod the cover.
(Images are crude as they were done with paint)
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The square bits are copper plates
The copper plates are painted black for 2 reasons. Black is a better thermal absorber and radiator. In theory, it should absorb heat from the battery/phone and radiate outwards to the surroundings. The 2nd reason is that black would fit better with the case.
The little black dots you see are actually drilled holes which shows the painted black copper plates underneath.
EDIT: On 2nd thoughts, I think it might be better to source for some cheap ebay cover for this mod instead. The extended battery cover is impossible to find.

lambstone said:
By the way, I was bumming about the forums and found references to this particular case.
Polar Bear Case
I know. Polar Bear... but it does look interesting as it claims to have integrated a heat sink.Seems more feasible as the heat sink is directly in contact with the environment as compared to your original idea of having the heat sink inside the cover. Then I had a thought. Why not mod the cover.
(Images are crude as they were done with paint)
The square bits are copper plates
The copper plates are painted black for 2 reasons. Black is a better thermal absorber and radiator. In theory, it should absorb heat from the battery/phone and radiate outwards to the surroundings. The 2nd reason is that black would fit better with the case.
The little black dots you see are actually drilled holes which shows the painted black copper plates underneath.
EDIT: On 2nd thoughts, I think it might be better to source for some cheap ebay cover for this mod instead. The extended battery cover is impossible to find.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep,that seems like a possible solution.But actually kinda ruining the phone's back is bad.Or maybe not.I'll look into it when I have time.Thanks.
I'm actually looking into buying a metal bumper for my phone.Maybe I could make it so that it somehow fits.

I'm using a hybrid case. The metal backplate keeps the fone literally "chilled out"
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium

maroofnayeem said:
I'm using a hybrid case. The metal backplate keeps the fone literally "chilled out"
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah,but don't these:
a)Get applied on top of the phone's normal casing like most/all cases?
b)Make the phone too bulky?
I was thinking of getting one,but if I'm going to keep the old back along with the case...I dunno.

[MOD][THERMAL][GUTS] nVidia Shield TV 16GB Thermal Paste Replacement

Here we have a simple MOD to replace the thermal paste on my Shield TV.
I have not tested to see how bad or if this X1 chip throttles under a good load but I figured it couldn't hurt to replace the TIM with something better than stock. So here we Gooooooo!
Disclaimer: I hold no responsibility if you attempt this and break your device. You my friend bear all the risks.
Here we have the Guts! The Bottom was surprisingly easy to remove with only some clips holding it in place. So pry lightly from the corner and edges and be careful not to pry to hard or insert anything like a spludger as you may break tabs or crack the plastic so be easy and work your way around by hand if at all possible.
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The device does not look as glamorous on the inside as the nvidia renders suggested when it was advertised. lol
It does however show a very small, powerful device, with a lot of added weight to assist in its premium feel and or using the available vertical stand you can purchase from nVidia.
Here is the connection board. I won't have to take all this stuff out at the moment but If there is a bigger demand for it I will later as I can't find many teardowns of the shield anywhere, I had found one but it was not very detailed on the method.
Here is a small piece of tape holding the very small wires away from the heat pipe. Make sure these are clear from the pipe during and after removal as you don't want to pull on them or expose them to direct contact with the heat pipe after it's reinstall.
We start by removing the two small screws holding the fan and heat sink into place.
Sometimes the small anker will come out with the screw but it can be reseated with a little pressure.
Next, begin by removing the three spring reinforced screws applying pressure to the main X1 chip.
Now we get to see and clean the gunk they slathered on at the factory! YAY!
Use some high grade alcohol at least 70% and begin cleaning with some cotton swabs and q-tips.
Ugh!! Clean it..... Clean it real good!
Oooha Shiny!
Clean the X1 chip off carefully and try not to let the gunk flop around and get pushed into the small crevices in the top of the metal CPU lid. We don't want to insulate the heat in the chip. The best method is to soak a cotton ball in alcohol but not too much and go in for one big swipe to get the bulk of the TIM off. Then go back in with a small q-tip to get the remaining film or small pieces of leftover TIM
Now simply use your TIM of choice. I chose Gelid Extreme with a thermal conductivity of 8.5w/m-k as it had exceptional results when I did a similar cooling mod to my Nexus 6P. Apply a small rice grain sized amount to the top of the X1 chip right in the middle. Mine usually end up looking like a small grey Hershey's Kiss. Do not spread it with a card or spreader. This creates air pockets under pressure and insulates the chip from the heat pipe and will cause temperatures to go up.
Now reseat the fan in the exhaust slot first.
Then begin laying heat pipe and copper plate back onto the CPU slowly, and in a straight downward fashion. If the plate makes contact with the TIM and you have to back it out for any reason, you will need to remove and clean the TIM before reapplying because now air pockets will develope.
Screw the 3 screws on the heat pipe back in tightly
Screw the fan back in securely
Clean up and snap the bottom back on and wipe her down and boom your good to go!
To break the paste in a little make sure you heat her up good and play a graphically intense game. Just anything to get the Cuda cores churning a little. Then let her fully cool off at some point by pulling the power cable and letting it sit a little to fully cool in an off state instead of simply just sleeping. This simple full heat cycle ensures the TIM adjusts and sets correctly.
Enjoy!!!:highfive:

I really see no need to do this, but thx anyway
BTW, nice vaping unit

scaramonga said:
I really see no need to do this, but thx anyway
BTW, nice vaping unit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree this is not a mod everyone needs to do because of shields dropping dead from heat damage or anything because they don't. But I did it to mine so I figured having some pics available and such would be at least worth posting and having available. Oh and thanks it is a Mini Volt. It is a tiny little thing! Good for carrying when your just headed to the corner store and back.

What I have found to make quite a difference is to put some thermal pads over the heatsink so that it is thermally connected to the aluminum baseplate.

Do I need ink to do this properly?
Pp.
sent from my stone/stock S6e using microwave technology.

Experimental "home-made" modding for heat dissipation

DISCLAIMER:
- FIRST OF ALL, THIS IS 'EXPERIMENTAL'. I'M NOT SUGGESTING DOING THIS TO ANYONE.
- My device HAS NOT warranty SO I HAVE NOTHING TO LOSE (i already get a backup phone).
- If you do this YOU WILL LOSE your warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since i bought my N5X i've noticed the horrible thermal dissipation that it has. It gets warm extremely fast even with very simple tasks, and as a result of that the thermal throttling shut downs the big cluster 'aka big cores' (x2 A57 1.82 ghz) when it reaches 44 celsius degrees (on stock kernel) the performance of the device decreases because it only works with his x4 A53 cores 1.44ghz.
Change the value of the thermal throttling to a high number like ElementalX does (has 46°c by default) is not a solution for me because this device reaches that temp very fast and i am trying to keep the temperatures as low ass posible to avoid the known bootloop issue (or at least try).
This is very homemade. You just will need: LIQUID METAL THERMAL PASTE (not regular) and ALUMINIUM FOIL.
*Unfortunaley i have not many photos of the procedure, but it is not difficult.
STEPS:
We want to improve thermal cooling on the CPU chip, but it's under the ram memory.
Is the RED SQUARE:
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0) UNPLUG THE BATTERY!
1) Remove the motherboard from the device.
2) Locate the metal protection (in the picture that protection has been removed, it's above the chips). And with an anti-static tool remove the "metallic sticker" that it has on the top. Now the RAM MEMORY chip will be exposed.
3) Put a 1.5mm layer of Thermal paste on the RAM MEMORY chip.
4) Now see on the frame and search for the very bad quality thermal pad (color yellow), remove it. Put a very thin layer of thermal paste (covering the perimeter of the square)
5) Do this with the aluminium foil (something like a "heat pipe").
Now reassemble your device and notice how this improves the CPU performance (the big cluster is not at 633mhz or offline all the time) and it does not reachs temps over 50c.
STOCK FRAME (NO MODIFIED) CPU STRESS TEST - MSM_THERMAL OFF:
NON STOCK FRAME (MODIFIED) CPU STRESS TEST - MSM_THERMAL OFF:
NOTE: MSM_Thermal is shutdown in both tests to avoid interferences and see the real results (that's the reason why in the first test the phone reaches 90°c with his non modified frame).
I'm using EX Manager app by flar2 to read the CPU temperatures correctly. You can use CPU-Z too (it reads the temp well), but the Cpu stresser app temperature readings are incorrect.
Like i said in the beginning of this thread, DO NOT DO THIS if you still have your warranty period, and IF YOU DO NOT LIKE THIS, just DO NOT DO IT, i just want to share this.

thanks! I'll try it

Good tutorial=)
To anyone with the warranty still intact/covered, you can use the thermal mod to raise the throttle temperature so it does not suffer performance loss(it works really well on extreme profile)
Edit: Just noticed it now, your cpu reaches 90ºC??? Isnt there something wrong with your nexus? Never seen it hit such high temperatures. The throttle should come into play to avoid it reaching such high temperatures

migueldbr said:
Good tutorial=)
To anyone with the warranty still intact/covered, you can use the thermal mod to raise the throttle temperature so it does not suffer performance loss(it works really well on extreme profile)
Edit: Just noticed it now, your cpu reaches 90ºC??? Isnt there something wrong with your nexus? Never seen it hit such high temperatures. The throttle should come into play to avoid it reaching such high temperatures
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you!, and yes, it reachs that temperature (almost like my Nexus 5 with Snapdragon 800). I know is too much. I did both of the tests inmediatly after a reboot. and yes the phone was warm because here in my country (Argentina) we are almost in summer and the ambient temperature yesterday when i did the tests was about 35°c with an humidity of 88%.
Anyway i must say that my phone within this mod ever worked between 35°c and 57°c in a "winter" day "12°c-19°c". So the thermal dissipation at least on my device is not very good, now it runs appreciably more colder and the CPU temp drop fasters.

very cool modification
I wonder how it would perform if you added holes to the back of the case above the small strip
I am curious how my google live case affects the CPU heat

While I agree with the Thermal paste\Aluminium foil combo, I'm not very comfortable about yours. Which one have you used? I only found this which has to be used only with copper heat spreaders. This is a quote from the link I posted :
"DO NOT USE ALUMINIUM COOLERS or allow Liquid Pro to come in contact with any aluminium, or other non-copper surfaces. Aluminum is not resistant against Liquid Pro and will result in damages to any aluminium surface. Aluminium will dissolve when in contact with Liquid PRO."

marioemp2k7 said:
While I agree with the Thermal paste\Aluminium foil combo, I'm not very comfortable about yours. Which one have you used? I only found this which has to be used only with copper heat spreaders. This is a quote from the link I posted :
"DO NOT USE ALUMINIUM COOLERS or allow Liquid Pro to come in contact with any aluminium, or other non-copper surfaces. Aluminum is not resistant against Liquid Pro and will result in damages to any aluminium surface. Aluminium will dissolve when in contact with Liquid PRO."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
looking at the msds for the paste, it contains gallium which does not mix well with most metals/alloys
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HKpMYJ-6go

Seems pretty cool, will post a feedback after my warranty will gone.

I just did it!
Temperature on normal use is decrease around 8 celsius that great to know that this mod is actual work!
and know that my phone is H791 and use the same mainboard as H790,there is H790 on my mainboard .

This seems cool. I wonder how it would perform with copper foil instead.

DO NOT DO THIS "MOD"!!!
marioemp2k7 said:
"do not use aluminium coolers or allow liquid pro to come in contact with any aluminium, or other non-copper surfaces. Aluminum is not resistant against liquid pro and will result in damages to any aluminium surface. Aluminium will dissolve when in contact with liquid pro."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you want to use a normal thermal compound like Kryonaut, that's fine! However, any liquid metal compound like used in the OP is VERY DANGEROUS to use with any sort of aluminium, as they will react, destroy the foil, and destroy your phone.
lazerl0rd said:
this seems cool. I wonder how it would perform with copper foil instead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Copper does not have the same reaction problem, so if you wanted to try with a copper foil, that would work, and I'd imagine it would work pretty well.

This WILL destroy people's phones, aside from the chemical reaction between liquid metal and aluminium, the liquid metal will, after very little use, dislodge and spread throughout the phone, not least under the BGA of the chip you are trying to cool.
I knew it was a stupid idea when I tried it (very carefully with copper tape and proper tools) and I was proven right within 3 days my phone was dead due to the above.
This post should be deleted.

[HELP] Screen Freak Out When Display Small Line Of Pixel / Vertical

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My screen is working perfectly fine i try to test display all type video work just normal but it just flickering these rainbow / vertical line when i come close to let say smaller pixel like display shot with camera ... or picture with smaller pixel dots....

Have you found a solution? I have the same permanent vertical lines.

Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?

xfim said:
Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, good thought, I will open up the phone and check the connections.

Babakkardan said:
OK, good thought, I will open up the phone and check the connections.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know which one is it, right? The wider one on the bottom. Pry it up (use nails if you wish) and use some alcohol to clean it up.

xfim said:
Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Babakkardan said:
Have you found a solution? I have the same permanent vertical lines.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Abandoned War Place said:
My screen is working perfectly fine i try to test display all type video work just normal but it just flickering these rainbow / vertical line when i come close to let say smaller pixel like display shot with camera ... or picture with smaller pixel dots....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.

jdmst77 said:
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Baking it isnt a good idea. you might damage working things in the process. Usually the RAM chip is the main problem. Check if it is bent a bit on the edges. To test if ram is the problem, put something (aluminum foil, 1mm thermal pad...) on the chip so that it puts pressure on the disconnected areas and reconnects them.

xfim said:
Baking it isnt a good idea. you might damage working things in the process. Usually the RAM chip is the main problem. Check if it is bent a bit on the edges. To test if ram is the problem, put something (aluminum foil, 1mm thermal pad...) on the chip so that it puts pressure on the disconnected areas and reconnects them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sure, it could damage it, but it didn't. For a "completely broken" blue screened device that I purchased for $22.40 off ebay (solely for the display, to fix another device) I had nothing to lose. if it's not done right, anything can happen but I took extra precautions like folded aluminum foil in a sort of accordion like wave pattern so no points are directly sitting on the metal rack. Left ample time for the board to cool before flipping it and before reinserting it into the phone.
Can't argue with the results and people have been baking logic/motherboards for quite some time now just google it and it doesn't hurt to take extra precautions
EDIT: also after removing from the oven, I placed the board between 2 silicone trivets and lightly pressed them together to re-seat any chips/components, on the board

jdmst77 said:
sure, it could damage it, but it didn't. For a "completely broken" blue screened device that I purchased for $22.40 off ebay (solely for the display, to fix another device) I had nothing to lose. if it's not done right, anything can happen but I took extra precautions like folded aluminum foil in a sort of accordion like wave pattern so no points are directly sitting on the metal rack. Left ample time for the board to cool before flipping it and before reinserting it into the phone.
Can't argue with the results and people have been baking logic/motherboards for quite some time now just google it and it doesn't hurt to take extra precautions
EDIT: also after removing from the oven, I placed the board between 2 silicone trivets and lightly pressed them together to re-seat any chips/components, on the board
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Click to collapse
You did a good job then. Anyway, I would bake the board as a last resort. I'd try a few different things before (heating individual chips)

jdmst77 said:
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.
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Click to collapse
Instead if baking the board, how about putting solder paste on the connectors of the cpu & gpu and heating them with a heat gun? Will it give the same result?
---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------
xfim said:
You know which one is it, right? The wider one on the bottom. Pry it up (use nails if you wish) and use some alcohol to clean it up.
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I think I'll take it to a repairman and have him diagnose it... then if necessary he can use a heat gun to reset the solders on the cpu & gpu....
Update:
I took the G3 to a repair shop, we reset the connections and did the resoldering of the gpu and cpu. But no change in the display lines. The technician deduces it is a damaged display, especially since there is a lot of heat on the CPU area on the display now.
Any other solutions I can try before changing the display?
thanks.