I bought the Fire stick initially to use with Kodi, which it currently is running. But I have noticed that the stick can get very slow, laggy, when navigating the fire home menu or playing games.
Even if kodi is closed there is a noticeable issue here, but i have no idea how to fix it, even if it can be fixed.
I have noticed with the sticks that sometimes they work like a champ, and other times they get really laggy. I finally just said screw it, and sold the sticks, and just went to all "boxes". That said, the FTV stick is an incredible value for what you get for the money. But if you are a heavy user, you may want to pop for the box.
If you have it plugged into a USB port on your TV or into a surge protector, change that and plug it directly into a wall outlet or a standard extension cord.
Terry T said:
If you have it plugged into a USB port on your TV or into a surge protector, change that and plug it directly into a wall outlet or a standard extension cord.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. I understand the TV seeing as it could have less current going to it and people have reported it not being capable of updating when plugged into the tv, but what would surge protector change?
I bought two sticks at different times and set them both up plugged directly into the wall, everything was fast and worked well. Then when I installed them on the TVs I bought them for, I plugged them both into surge protectors and the performance was much slower and not at all what I had seen before. I then plugged one directly into the wall and the other into a standard extension cord and both were back to the fast performance I had originally seen.
My completely unsupported speculation is that the Stick at times pulls a spike of current that surge protectors are specifically designed to prevent, so it either can't do specific operations quickly or, because it now "knows" it can't draw the spike of current, it limits itself to a lower current draw and in general operates more slowly.
The device needs a stable voltage (5v in this case as it is a USB powered device). If the voltage was to drop the stick would power off / crash.
If you feel that it's not getting enough power then it's possible that it's not getting enough amperage. For example computer USB 2 ports are limited to 500ma (which is why phones charge slower from a computer than the wall charger) what might be happening is the USB power adapter you are using doesn't provide the amperage needed for the device.
Are you using the Amazon provided adapter? Is it getting unusually hot?
Do you have any other USB power adapters that put out a higher amperage?
It's very slow in response. And using KODI, you might as well forget about it. My first one was so slow, I called amazon to complain. They sent me a replacement. That did the same. So they both got returned. Darn shame as I like KODI, using Exodus. Constant freeze up. The processor just can't handle it.
I went back to my ROKU, and just order my movies from Redbox.......
Check to see if your router has 2 channels
Changing the power supply didn't work for me. What I figured is since there is network trouble, maybe there was a connection issue. My router has the option of 2.4 ghz signal or 5. I chose 2.4 for my firestick because my smart home is on that channel. I switched up to 5ghz which has the same password and my stick was back to working flawlessly and it actually didn't make a difference when telling the remote to turn on the lights.
X82X said:
I bought the Fire stick initially to use with Kodi, which it currently is running. But I have noticed that the stick can get very slow, laggy, when navigating the fire home menu or playing games.
Even if kodi is closed there is a noticeable issue here, but i have no idea how to fix it, even if it can be fixed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Related
Since I couldn't find any solution to my problem anywhere, I thought I'd post my solution here in case someone encounters the same or similar problems.
First, the problem: When my Galaxy Nexus is connected to my TV, using the samsung mhl-to-hdmi adapter, it loses connection at times. These problems get worse when the battery is low. It seems like the charger cannot support both the HDMI and the phone at the same time.
Resolution: My TV happens to be located in an area of my appartment with particularly bad reception. It appeared to me as if the disconnects happened whenever the phone was searching for a network. When the phone is in airplane mode the disconnects no longer occur, even if wifi is active. I haven't yet checked if it is enough to just switch off 3G, but it works and I'm very happy with it.
Activate airplane mode in Settings > Wireless & Networks
If you wan't to have wifi, just turn it back on.
I will have to test this theory
I have read that with the MHL adapter it works much much better to have your phone charging at the same time.
lowandbehold said:
I have read that with the MHL adapter it works much much better to have your phone charging at the same time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The MHL adapter is supposed to charge your phone through HDMI. Not sure what you're trying to say here.
Simply Awsome Help
internot said:
Since I couldn't find any solution to my problem anywhere, I thought I'd post my solution here in case someone encounters the same or similar problems.
First, the problem: When my Galaxy Nexus is connected to my TV, using the samsung mhl-to-hdmi adapter, it loses connection at times. These problems get worse when the battery is low. It seems like the charger cannot support both the HDMI and the phone at the same time.
Resolution: My TV happens to be located in an area of my appartment with particularly bad reception. It appeared to me as if the disconnects happened whenever the phone was searching for a network. When the phone is in airplane mode the disconnects no longer occur, even if wifi is active. I haven't yet checked if it is enough to just switch off 3G, but it works and I'm very happy with it.
Activate airplane mode in Settings > Wireless & Networks
If you wan't to have wifi, just turn it back on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A Million thanks to you dude. You made my day. I would have definitely given you one strong hug if you were anywhere near me.
I bought a brand new Samsung MHL and a High Speed HDMI two days back, only to find frequent disconnection and white noise. Happened every few minutes. Tried everything and was so freakin sad that I can't tell. Searched thoughout to find a solution. No go. Neither XDA nor google had the answer.
And then finally stumbled upon this thread.
And its exactly what was happening to my galaxy SII. I was in a place of low reception where 3G strength was bad. Never thought of this to be a problem.
But finally I read, I followed, I implemented and there I am.
Extremely satisfied with my purchase and my SII. It was back up and roaring on the big screen clutter-less now.
Thanks again dude!!!
Just one thing. What do you think is the relation between the HDMI output and network strength?? Is it supposed to happen or is it a fault(H/W or S/W) ?
purebishop said:
The MHL adapter is supposed to charge your phone through HDMI. Not sure what you're trying to say here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
MHL adapters include a side port for charging your phone. When your phone is displaying itself through HDMI it drains battery faster than this 'HDMI charging'. If your MHL adapter doesn't include this, I suggest buying a new one. $7 on eBay.
lowandbehold said:
I have read that with the MHL adapter it works much much better to have your phone charging at the same time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe that for most (all?) MHL->HDMI adapters, you HAVE to plug it in.
In MHL mode, the phone is set up so that it is able to receive power (charge). The MHL->HDMI adapter needs power to run. Since it can't get power from the nexus (because the nexus is set up to receive power, not provide it), it needs to be plugged in via the side micro-usb port. So far, all the adapters I've seen/heard of are this way.
Hypothetically, I suppose that the MHL->HDMI adapter could be battery-powered or have a different plug to provide power - or it might only power itself and not the phone. I've never seen one like that, though.
purebishop said:
The MHL adapter is supposed to charge your phone through HDMI. Not sure what you're trying to say here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe you are mistaken. First off, the maximum power capable of being supplied over HDMI is 50mA - well below the charging requirements for the Nexus. Secondly, the device you're connecting the Nexus to (TV/Monitor) is a sink device which does NOT provide power (unless MHL compliant?) to the source (Nexus). Thus, most (all?) MHL adapters provide the option of connecting an external power supply to charge the device.
To the OP, thanks for this info! My friend had issues with his and this could very much be the issue, the low signal is causing too much power draw for him.
Since I live in an area with very strong signal, that would explain why I never saw it.
cwoggon said:
I believe you are mistaken. First off, the maximum power capable of being supplied over HDMI is 50mA - well below the charging requirements for the Nexus. Secondly, the device you're connecting the Nexus to (TV/Monitor) is a sink device which does NOT provide power (unless MHL compliant?) to the source (Nexus). Thus, most (all?) MHL adapters provide the option of connecting an external power supply to charge the device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't call the micro-USB portion of a MHL adapter an option, more a requirement.
mutelight said:
I wouldn't call the micro-USB portion of a MHL adapter an option, more a requirement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, yes - good point.
I just got a brand new MHL adapter and cant get it to work at all. Beginning to think I got a DOA one.
I am going to try your solution to see if it helps, but I have good reception in my house.
When I connect mine, with power attached to the adapter, I get nothing at all on my TV, and the phone does nothing either. What could be wrong?
WACOMalt said:
I just got a brand new MHL adapter and cant get it to work at all. Beginning to think I got a DOA one.
I am going to try your solution to see if it helps, but I have good reception in my house.
When I connect mine, with power attached to the adapter, I get nothing at all on my TV, and the phone does nothing either. What could be wrong?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does your TV support 1280x720 over HDMI?
Awesome! I've tested this last night and didn't get any flickering of image when using my MHL to HDMI. The flickering would happen every 30 min or so sporatically...
FYI- your phone does not get charged through HDMI cable. You need to plug in power to the MHL connector to even use it which charges it but having the screen on at all times causes the battery to slowly drain. I usually just dim my screen down as much as possible to savage what I can. The drain is very minimal ~ 2% per hour with the type of MHL cable I purchased. (Menotek Micro USB to HDMI MHL Adapter IMPROVED WITH RCP- purchased on Amazon)
I know it's an old thread, but has anyone else tried bumping the CPU minimum up to 700mhz? I am going to do this tonight, airplane mode did work for me but I am currently looking for away to get HULU and Netflix working and I need the data connection.
Thank you so much, it works. Anyway, is there a way to have data connection and mhl at the same time?
I'm having problems connecting mouse through usb on the go.. when I try to connect my phone turns off and then it takes so much time to start?? any suggestions?
Would it matter if you just turned off mobile data or do you need to go airplane mode
epic4grooted said:
Would it matter if you just turned off mobile data or do you need to go airplane mode
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try it for your self, but if you are using any of the newer ROMs with the new DDK1.9, it doesn't support MHL.
I've seen people complaining that the i747 doesn't charage when your using USB OTG. I was watching a 720p mkv movie off my wd-750gb hd and noticed my battery was going up not down. I seem to have gotten it working with the following combo: Generic USB OTG L shaped cable, D-link usb2.0 hub that I hardwired the positive 5vdc rail to the host upstream power rail and [ROM] AOKP(Jellybean) Task & Ktoonsez 9/11. I had previously modded the usb hub to work with my Atrix as it needs 5vdc on the host rail in order to activate host mode.
There are a few ways to get the charging working. I have one of these
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/usb-2-0-4-port-hub-with-splitter-cable-black-18cm-125451?item=30
and if I plug the black line in and the red line into a USB port, I get charging. It just seems to have to do with if you're on a powered hub and if the 5v rail is hot.
Now I need to get an MHL adapter.
Yeah that's my next thing to test. I have one in the mail now.
Sent from my SGH-I747 using xda premium
When I used OTG cable, stuff I plug into it get power from my i747... In theory, I can charge other devices from my i747.
However, I suppose if the device connected to the i747 via OTG actually is hot (supplies power instead of getting power), it would then charge the phone instead...
Just a theory,.... A powered hub (with it's own power supply), might be able to charge the phone and power the devices connected to it... But a non-powered hub will get power from the i747 and power devices connected to the hub from the phone's battery... Do note that some devices require a certain amount of power to switch on and actually work... the power supplied by the phone is limited, so using a hub will divide the power across the connected devices to it...
This is the most finicky phone I've had in regards to the USB cable. I've never had an issue in the past with any of the mini usb cables I have on hand, but half of them don't work on this phone. Caused me problems with odin flashing, transfering files, etc - so I wouldn't rule out the cable as a possibility for your problems. Also, if you have a higher rated charger (more amp rating on the label) you might see if you get the same behavior. Also, I find that once in a while, my phone is hot after being 'off'. When I go into battery usage I find that 'Android System' is chomping the battery up. I haven't figured out if it's rom specific or just a 'feature'. Maybe that's drawing some extra current - check your task manager when you're watching your show to see if something might be getting busy in the background.
Ozark_8125 said:
This is the most finicky phone I've had in regards to the USB cable. I've never had an issue in the past with any of the mini usb cables I have on hand, but half of them don't work on this phone. Caused me problems with odin flashing, transfering files, etc - so I wouldn't rule out the cable as a possibility for your problems. Also, if you have a higher rated charger (more amp rating on the label) you might see if you get the same behavior. Also, I find that once in a while, my phone is hot after being 'off'. When I go into battery usage I find that 'Android System' is chomping the battery up. I haven't figured out if it's rom specific or just a 'feature'. Maybe that's drawing some extra current - check your task manager when you're watching your show to see if something might be getting busy in the background.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My moto atrix was way worse for cables and chargers. At least I can over ride the 500mah draw with the sgs3. Unless it was made by moto or you crossed the d+ d- lines it refused to go into fast mode.
I'm getting rapid battery drain issues while using MHL adapter. I'm still trouble shooting, but have to experiment more. In the mean time, I was thinking maybe someone may have some suggestions.
I just transition from the HTV Evo 4G. Great phone, but it's showing its age. I have a job with a lot of dead time. With the Evo, and Cyangenmod, I would mirror the phone onto a 16" HDTV and watch Netflix, Hulu, NFL, Crackle, Plex, play games and so forth. I would also WiFi tether so I could use my tablet to do email, web browser, IM and so forth. I had the phone over clocked and used the performance gov. If had the phone connect to a charger, it would actually charge, albeit slowly back up to a fully charge This is with the screen that new shut off while pausing a media, but set to the lowest brightness.
The GN2, nowhere near the performance. If I WiFi tether and stream some media and mirror to the TV via the MHL adapter, I loose around 20% battery.per hour. I have power save on. I use my tablets power adapter with outputs 2.1mah instead of the 1 like the one that comes with GN2. I still have the screen set to lowest brightness.
From the settings menu for battery, the screen takes up the most juice. This is expected. But I also streamed content on phone while charging and it did build up a charge, albeit very slow.
I'm thinking it may be the MHL adapter itselt. I have the have USB charger connected to work. It's possible the phone doesn't put out enough power to work the MHL adapter. I'm not certain, but it's possible the MHL adapter is only doing a trickle charge. I had it plugged in, but phone screen off, and looks like it draining the battery. I want to run a longer test to confirm.
I purchase a cheap MHL from monoprice. I had to get the 11pin to 5pin adapter to use it. I'm not sure it is the MHL or the adapter that may cause issues.
In the mean time, I changed the kernals to Persus. Hoping to get better performance, or higher charging capablities. It's improved slightly, maybe 18% drain per hour. I'm just using CPU Mater, free version. I upped the CPU to 1.8ghz, but the free version does include anything for the battery. I don't really want to spend the $3 on SetCPU because I don't know if there gov has a lot towards the battery charging mods.
Any ideas or suggestions?
lovekeiiy said:
I'm getting rapid battery drain issues while using MHL adapter. I'm still trouble shooting, but have to experiment more. In the mean time, I was thinking maybe someone may have some suggestions.
I just transition from the HTV Evo 4G. Great phone, but it's showing its age. I have a job with a lot of dead time. With the Evo, and Cyangenmod, I would mirror the phone onto a 16" HDTV and watch Netflix, Hulu, NFL, Crackle, Plex, play games and so forth. I would also WiFi tether so I could use my tablet to do email, web browser, IM and so forth. I had the phone over clocked and used the performance gov. If had the phone connect to a charger, it would actually charge, albeit slowly back up to a fully charge This is with the screen that new shut off while pausing a media, but set to the lowest brightness.
The GN2, nowhere near the performance. If I WiFi tether and stream some media and mirror to the TV via the MHL adapter, I loose around 20% battery.per hour. I have power save on. I use my tablets power adapter with outputs 2.1mah instead of the 1 like the one that comes with GN2. I still have the screen set to lowest brightness.
From the settings menu for battery, the screen takes up the most juice. This is expected. But I also streamed content on phone while charging and it did build up a charge, albeit very slow.
I'm thinking it may be the MHL adapter itselt. I have the have USB charger connected to work. It's possible the phone doesn't put out enough power to work the MHL adapter. I'm not certain, but it's possible the MHL adapter is only doing a trickle charge. I had it plugged in, but phone screen off, and looks like it draining the battery. I want to run a longer test to confirm.
I purchase a cheap MHL from monoprice. I had to get the 11pin to 5pin adapter to use it. I'm not sure it is the MHL or the adapter that may cause issues.
In the mean time, I changed the kernals to Persus. Hoping to get better performance, or higher charging capablities. It's improved slightly, maybe 18% drain per hour. I'm just using CPU Mater, free version. I upped the CPU to 1.8ghz, but the free version does include anything for the battery. I don't really want to spend the $3 on SetCPU because I don't know if there gov has a lot towards the battery charging mods.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A. you are wrong, the charger that comes with our phone is 2 amps.
B. make sure you use the cable that came with the phone as it is rated for 2 amps, other cables will have too much resistance
C. it is normal for the mhl adapter to eat through your battery, maybe not as much as you are saying, but this phone uses the 11 pin mhl adapter which allows for FULL hd unlike older mhls/microhdmi ports so it is bound to murder your battery
D. I don't recommend you wirelessly tethering at the same time, my phone will eat through my battery like crazy with the screen turned off while tethering to play online games... this might be the root of your problem
Sent from my SPH-L900 using xda app-developers app
I think you're right on the cable. I tried it at home, using the charger and cable that came with the phone. Did an hour of Netflix, WiFi tethered the tablet. Battery drain...1%
I'll guess I need to get new USB cables since I like to keep extras in various locations, LOL.
Also, I miss read the chrager. I shouldn't read when I'm too tired. The good news, my tablets 2.1A charger should be only a very low risk of too much power. I was concerned with it, when I thought the charger was 1A
I realize what I'm doing is power drain, but it should be doable is the phone is on a charger. I'm not necessarily expecting it to charge back up, but I figure in the six to seven hours, a reasonable drain on the charger should be maybe 30%. This is only an assumption since I don't know how much the screen drains the battery.
lovekeiiy said:
I think you're right on the cable. I tried it at home, using the charger and cable that came with the phone. Did an hour of Netflix, WiFi tethered the tablet. Battery drain...1%
I'll guess I need to get new USB cables since I like to keep extras in various locations, LOL.
Also, I miss read the chrager. I shouldn't read when I'm too tired. The good news, my tablets 2.1A charger should be only a very low risk of too much power. I was concerned with it, when I thought the charger was 1A
I realize what I'm doing is power drain, but it should be doable is the phone is on a charger. I'm not necessarily expecting it to charge back up, but I figure in the six to seven hours, a reasonable drain on the charger should be maybe 30%. This is only an assumption since I don't know how much the screen drains the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
there is no risk of overcharging from amperage, the phone will take what it wants and not use the rest... you could have a 500 amp charger yet our phone would only use the 2 amps it's rated for. The problem comes from voltage if you have to much voltage then you overcharge.
you also fail to realize that the phone takes a lot of juice to convert it's image into a standard hdmi signal, it's the difference between you talking to yourself and you trying to make someone else understand you... the processor has to act as a graphics card, a sound card and its usual processing needs... the epic 4g touch ate just as much power per hour while on mhl yet it was only outputting 16:9 480p
as for getting more cables be careful and ensure they can handle the 2 amp drop
Sent from my SPH-L900 using xda app-developers app
Well, it seemed the biggest culprit was not the cable, but the charger. I actually brought the Samsung charger to work. I was only getting around 2% to 5% battery drain per hour. It was really low.
Unfortunately my ignorence on electricity is showing. I'm not seeing why such a dramatic difference between the Samsung and ASUS (TF700T tablet) chargers. Their readings are similar but not exact:
ASUS: Input: 100-240V 50/60Hz 0.5A, Output: 5V==2A or 15V==1.2A
Samsung: Input 100-240V 50/60Hz 0.35A, Output 5V ==2.0A
As for cables, I'm not sure where I can go to find good USB cables that work as well or better than the one that came with the phone. Usually I just go to monoprice, but that's where I got my other cables.
BlackBerry cables r usually more beefy than others since they are rated for data transfer. whenever flashing through Odin that's what I use never had a problem. assuming it's the same for charging. they usually only run like 5 bucks too
Sent from my SPH-L900 using xda app-developers app
goodpup420 said:
BlackBerry cables r usually more beefy than others since they are rated for data transfer. whenever flashing through Odin that's what I use never had a problem. assuming it's the same for charging. they usually only run like 5 bucks too
Sent from my SPH-L900 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
they might be beefy, but still have ****ty materials. it all depends on the impedance of the cable... if you have a multimeter check the resistance on the cables and compare them to the stock
Sent from my SPH-L900 using xda app-developers app
My Fire TV stick acts up when powered from the TV usb. It works fine from the AC adapter but I'd rather use the USB because it is less clutter. Will something like this solve my issue?:
amazon.com/PortaPow-Fast-Charge-Blackberry-Charging/dp/B00GC4AJOU
(can't post links yet)
bobbintb said:
My Fire TV stick acts up when powered from the TV usb. It works fine from the AC adapter but I'd rather use the USB because it is less clutter. Will something like this solve my issue?:
amazon.com/PortaPow-Fast-Charge-Blackberry-Charging/dp/B00GC4AJOU
(can't post links yet)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't hurt to try it out. As per specs it says it will charge similar to the rapid charger I believe. Give it a shot its cheap.
bobbintb said:
My Fire TV stick acts up when powered from the TV usb. It works fine from the AC adapter but I'd rather use the USB because it is less clutter. Will something like this solve my issue?:
amazon.com/PortaPow-Fast-Charge-Blackberry-Charging/dp/B00GC4AJOU
(can't post links yet)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am using an old original iphone usb charger and everything works fine
Zenroid said:
I am using an old original iphone usb charger and everything works fine
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OP (Original Poster) is trying to circumvent the use of an external power supply and use the usb service/media port of the television for less wire clutter by the outlet/powerstrip. Due to power requirements of stick and power limitations of most television usb ports, the device he references is quite interesting and I hope someone may give back some postitive feedback on it. I also would like to know on top of meeting the power requirements for the stick, does it block remote control codes from TV's being sent to the stick through hdmi. I would not go with the model that blocks data for that purpose but then again, the blocking of data model my work better for original question.
rp201 said:
OP (Original Poster) is trying to circumvent the use of an external power supply and use the usb service/media port of the television for less wire clutter by the outlet/powerstrip. Due to power requirements of stick and power limitations of most television usb ports, the device he references is quite interesting and I hope someone may give back some postitive feedback on it. I also would like to know on top of meeting the power requirements for the stick, does it block remote control codes from TV's being sent to the stick through hdmi. I would not go with the model that blocks data for that purpose but then again, the blocking of data model my work better for original question.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh yes missed the whole point I guess I would like to know as well if such device works and I got power warning from fire tv when I go to software update page other than that no such warning
rp201 said:
OP (Original Poster) is trying to circumvent the use of an external power supply and use the usb service/media port of the television for less wire clutter by the outlet/powerstrip. Due to power requirements of stick and power limitations of most television usb ports, the device he references is quite interesting and I hope someone may give back some postitive feedback on it. I also would like to know on top of meeting the power requirements for the stick, does it block remote control codes from TV's being sent to the stick through hdmi. I would not go with the model that blocks data for that purpose but then again, the blocking of data model my work better for original question.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that is correct, I am trying to about using an external power supply. Maybe I will just have to suck it up and be the guinea pig. I am just a little hesitant because I figured I would be able to find more info on it if it does work. I can't be the first person that thought of this. But in theory, it should work. The USB standard is 5 volts with varying amperes, depending on how the devices negotiate it. Well, it's a service port so I imagine it's doesn't do any sort of power negotiation and so it just supplies a low amperage. The only real concern I have is that this seems to be designed for a phone charger and may not really work in this scenario. I think I will have to check my TV USB with a multimeter and see if it is sending enough and just not negotiating. If it is not sending enough amps, I don't think this will help.
As for the CEC feature for HDMI, I don't see how this would interfere with it at all.
I believe the device posted in OPs post does the same thing as this hack seen here: http://blog.seani.am/2011/08/charge-only-microusb-cable/
Therefore you can just create your own or buy a "fast charge" cable somewhere.
If you're going to create your own cable I suggest you read other sites instructions too just to be sure you know what you're doing.
wqwrqrfq said:
I believe the device posted in OPs post does the same thing as this hack seen here: http://blog.seani.am/2011/08/charge-only-microusb-cable/
Therefore you can just create your own or buy a "fast charge" cable somewhere.
If you're going to create your own cable I suggest you read other sites instructions too just to be sure you know what you're doing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it would be wise to know how many milliamps the usb port on the tv puts out, because if the tv uses the minimum output for 2.0 then it doesnt matter what cable you use its not going to increase the milliamps to the device. The charger block for the fire tv is 3.3 amps so i would recommend you use an extension cord from the wall to behind the tv and then plug the tv and firetv charger block in so all is hidden behind the tv and the firetv has enough power
rontonomo said:
it would be wise to know how many milliamps the usb port on the tv puts out, because if the tv uses the minimum output for 2.0 then it doesnt matter what cable you use its not going to increase the milliamps to the device. The charger block for the fire tv is 3.3 amps so i would recommend you use an extension cord from the wall to behind the tv and then plug the tv and firetv charger block in so all is hidden behind the tv and the firetv has enough power
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, I thought of that a earlier. Good point. Now that I think about it that's probably the case, the TV isn't outputting enough in the first place and I don't think I can do anything about that short of taking apart the TV and altering the circuit to output more amps. Those service ports were never really meant to be used to power anything but that will probably change with more of these devices floating around.
bobbintb said:
Yea, I thought of that a earlier. Good point. Now that I think about it that's probably the case, the TV isn't outputting enough in the first place and I don't think I can do anything about that short of taking apart the TV and altering the circuit to output more amps. Those service ports were never really meant to be used to power anything but that will probably change with more of these devices floating around.
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the TV is unlikely to be putting out more than the USB 2.0 standard [email protected] (although there are a few TVs that do. and some that will do less, lol.) - which is not close to enough - when I first was setting up my stick (trying with the TV usb power) it constantly gave messages of not enough power.
like everyone else, I am also very curious about the device you linked in OP. it could work! or, it could do nothing ... or, it could blow out the TV's usb port regulators from current over-draw
I really want to know!
tarvoke said:
like everyone else, I am also very curious about the device you linked in OP. it could work! or, it could do nothing ... or, it could blow out the TV's usb port regulators from current over-draw
I really want to know!
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It is just a dumb passthrough so unless the TV is capable of outputing more amps and just isn't, it probably does nothing in this case. But I'll update if I find out for certain, but I have to pull out my mulitimeter first.
I was thinking the device was using some kind of capacitive circuitry to store voltage to maintain certain voltage levels during short drops. the more I think about it, it probably pertains to more of a thumb drive environment. Never know till you try. I hate to be a doubting thomas but it doesn't look like it's going to work. w=VxI 5watts=5voltsx1amp not sure how you going to turn a 500mA tv usbport into 1000mA. I always thought adding more circuitry adds more impedance which creates voltage drops and lowers total power throughput. if the device itself had it's own power source then... but that would defeat the purpose I keep an open mind though cause I haven't done circuitry in decades.
all the device in the OP does is tell the firetv (or any usb device) that its plugged into a charger and not a usb data device so no power is lost for data transfer. This is the same thing as hacking a usb micro charge cable by faulting the data cables so the device (in this case firetv, but could also be phones or any other usb device) thinks is only a charger plugged in not a data device so it will give all the available power (which in this case would be the max output of the tv usb port) to the charger. so if it was a device with a battery it would charge faster, but it still isnt gonna make extra power out of thin air, meaning that its most likely not goning to have anywhere enough juice to power the firetv correctly. if you want to make that device in the op yourself google how to make a fast charge cable its the same thing
You are literally "playing with fire"....standard USB ports will not supply proper current to run any unintended device or charge circuit, voids your warranty for both products, risks permanent damage up to and including risk of meltdown or fire. Short answer: DON"T DO IT, use the supplied power for it's intended use ONLY for the product it came with, unless you are looking to test your insurance policy and safety. Also anything you plug into a data capable (including HDMI) port essentially cuts the microprocessor data line and inserts an potential unknown, add inappropriate power draw and you have a recipe for disaster. 30 + years experience fixing failed circuits in consumer and industrial products.
Just a quick question about the power consumption on these sticks. I'm aware it's supposed to require 1A. Most TVs have a 0.5A USB port. Now I'm pretty sure I tested them before and got the low power message. However tonight on two different TVs, two different Fire Sticks, but using shorter leads (1x 1m and 1x ~0.1m) and both appear to work fine. Not even a lower power/incompatible charger message!
Am I missing something or harming the devices this way? My theory is the shorter leads loose less juice by the time it reaches the stick.
I have no idea about their power consumption, just wanted to add, that i plugged in my stick into the usb out of a sat receiver. When checking on updates, it gave the low power message as well. But plugged in long enough, it updated anyway (that was at the time of the stagefright vulnerabilities).
To the question: the shorter cables or with less resistivity could well be the answer. Unless, if either the tv/my sat usb out varies in peak (eg. when turning on?) or the stick is "charged" after some time.
The power brick that comes with it says it's 5 watt, 5 volt, 1.0 amp.
So any USB port that outputs constant 1 amp should work fine.
Ludacrisvp said:
The power brick that comes with it says it's 5 watt, 5 volt, 1.0 amp.
So any USB port that outputs constant 1 amp should work fine.
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That's what I was led to believe. However it works with 0.5amp w/ shorter lead - with no errors. Both a 1meter and 0.1meter have worked successfully for me.
santamanga said:
I have no idea about their power consumption, just wanted to add, that i plugged in my stick into the usb out of a sat receiver. When checking on updates, it gave the low power message as well. But plugged in long enough, it updated anyway (that was at the time of the stagefright vulnerabilities).
To the question: the shorter cables or with less resistivity could well be the answer. Unless, if either the tv/my sat usb out varies in peak (eg. when turning on?) or the stick is "charged" after some time.
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I've seen the low power message with other chargers, and even the official Amazon charger a few times, but not once message with a shorter lead on 0.5amp USB
I am running the Stick with my HDD-USB-Port at my old Samsung. No need for a separate PSU in particular