Develop Bugs

App to force full speed charging?

There's an app (Nook Charger Control) for the Nook Color that allows it to charge at full speed from any USB supply as long as the special cable is used. It's especially useful for a USB host (PC or Kelly Wu-compatible platform) that needs to communicate at the same time.
Is there something similar for the Kindle Fire? The Fire doesn't even need a special cable, so it would be nice to be able to have it charge at full speed from any USB supply. I have an adapter to work around the issue but it's another item to carry and it blocks communications.

it shoud be kernel and hashcode didnt included this in his kernel
Sent From my Kindle Fire
gedemes 27 april cm9+Hash's 28 april kernel

1) Kernel developers are busy getting our charger driver to just plain work.
2) This feature is dangerous and can easily cause permanent hardware damage, not a good idea to implement it in a kernel or use it. I have enough blown USB ports due to flaky devices that didn't follow the USB standard thank you very much.

Entropy512 said:
1) Kernel developers are busy getting our charger driver to just plain work.
2) This feature is dangerous and can easily cause permanent hardware damage, not a good idea to implement it in a kernel or use it. I have enough blown USB ports due to flaky devices that didn't follow the USB standard thank you very much.
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I have used Nook Charger Control on my Nook Color a lot of times and never had any issues with it. Maybe put the app/setting in the same category as the overclocking/performance settings so an uninformed user doesn't tweak it.

charging and USB OTG/Host

I've seen people complaining that the i747 doesn't charage when your using USB OTG. I was watching a 720p mkv movie off my wd-750gb hd and noticed my battery was going up not down. I seem to have gotten it working with the following combo: Generic USB OTG L shaped cable, D-link usb2.0 hub that I hardwired the positive 5vdc rail to the host upstream power rail and [ROM] AOKP(Jellybean) Task & Ktoonsez 9/11. I had previously modded the usb hub to work with my Atrix as it needs 5vdc on the host rail in order to activate host mode.

There are a few ways to get the charging working. I have one of these
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/usb-2-0-4-port-hub-with-splitter-cable-black-18cm-125451?item=30
and if I plug the black line in and the red line into a USB port, I get charging. It just seems to have to do with if you're on a powered hub and if the 5v rail is hot.
Now I need to get an MHL adapter.

Yeah that's my next thing to test. I have one in the mail now.
Sent from my SGH-I747 using xda premium

When I used OTG cable, stuff I plug into it get power from my i747... In theory, I can charge other devices from my i747.
However, I suppose if the device connected to the i747 via OTG actually is hot (supplies power instead of getting power), it would then charge the phone instead...
Just a theory,.... A powered hub (with it's own power supply), might be able to charge the phone and power the devices connected to it... But a non-powered hub will get power from the i747 and power devices connected to the hub from the phone's battery... Do note that some devices require a certain amount of power to switch on and actually work... the power supplied by the phone is limited, so using a hub will divide the power across the connected devices to it...

This is the most finicky phone I've had in regards to the USB cable. I've never had an issue in the past with any of the mini usb cables I have on hand, but half of them don't work on this phone. Caused me problems with odin flashing, transfering files, etc - so I wouldn't rule out the cable as a possibility for your problems. Also, if you have a higher rated charger (more amp rating on the label) you might see if you get the same behavior. Also, I find that once in a while, my phone is hot after being 'off'. When I go into battery usage I find that 'Android System' is chomping the battery up. I haven't figured out if it's rom specific or just a 'feature'. Maybe that's drawing some extra current - check your task manager when you're watching your show to see if something might be getting busy in the background.

Ozark_8125 said:
This is the most finicky phone I've had in regards to the USB cable. I've never had an issue in the past with any of the mini usb cables I have on hand, but half of them don't work on this phone. Caused me problems with odin flashing, transfering files, etc - so I wouldn't rule out the cable as a possibility for your problems. Also, if you have a higher rated charger (more amp rating on the label) you might see if you get the same behavior. Also, I find that once in a while, my phone is hot after being 'off'. When I go into battery usage I find that 'Android System' is chomping the battery up. I haven't figured out if it's rom specific or just a 'feature'. Maybe that's drawing some extra current - check your task manager when you're watching your show to see if something might be getting busy in the background.
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My moto atrix was way worse for cables and chargers. At least I can over ride the 500mah draw with the sgs3. Unless it was made by moto or you crossed the d+ d- lines it refused to go into fast mode.

Fast Charging USB Cable for Cars / laptop

Hey all,
The ONE gets too hot... Solved :good:
The ONE charges slowly... Solved :good:
My HTC ONE was charging very VERY slowly since I got it... And it was actually discharging slowly if plugged in and using navigation in the car..
Now, I don't have the original HTC car charger and its a stupid amount to pay for that...
I've used over a dozen of cables and chargers but none of them would charge properly...
Ordered this earlier this week and it got delivered today
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321159008835&ssPageName=ADME:L:eek:C:GB:3160
Looks decent, and I would highly recommend it for anyone having charging problems with universal USB chargers.
Just tested it, I fired up Waze (which I usually use), Mobile Data, GPS, Skype in background and anything that would run in the background using as much power as it can .... Streaming Music over Bluetooth.. Screen was ON all the time with MAX brightness
My ONE slowly (really slowly) went from 53% to 54% ..:laugh::laugh:
Regarding ROM etc (if it makes any difference) , I'm running Viper One with ElementalX Kernel. 384Mhz Min and 1674 Max. Undervolted to -50mV & Fastcharge ... plus an Air Vent mounted phone holder for cooling features .. The ONE gets too hot
I can finally use the ONE as a proper nav, without having to worry about switching the screen off every now and then...

Sounds good, and in what charger you use?

Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.

Kraize said:
Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.
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That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.

rancor22 said:
That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.
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Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.

Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
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Yep, might not fry a powered USB 3.0 port but don't try this.

Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
Mpro747 said:
Sounds good, and in what charger you use?
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A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
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Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
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you guys might wanna look at this sweet babe, you will know exactly how many hours to fully charge ur HTC One :silly:
http://www.thepowerpot.com/solar-power-optimized-practical-meter

hmm interesting, but if the 24awg cable has a potential of frying your usb port, guess what this one will do
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4

Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
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The 24AWG wire used in the cable does nothing for helping your phone charge faster, its the fact that the two data lines are shorted in the cable. This tells the device that it is connected to a dedicated charger, even if it is not, and that it can pull however much current it needs.

Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.

Vincent Law said:
Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.
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Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.

rancor22 said:
Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.
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That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.

Vincent Law said:
That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.
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Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.

rancor22 said:
Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.
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Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.

Vincent Law said:
Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.
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I am not disagreeing with you that hosts can control and meter power but it does that by assuming the end device will also follow usb spec and is listening to what it is saying. So yes what I am saying is that for a device that does not follow USB spec and does not enumerate the only current control it receives is a hardware current limit. I don't know the whole usb spec well I know battery charging specifications so if this is completely wrong can you point me to the part of the USB specifications where it says the host must limit current draw. In a perfect system the hardware current limit will change as the host specifies how much power the device is allowed to draw, but more likely the protection IC(s) are just there in the case of a short, esd, or a device that is supplying power to the host (reverse current).

Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables

bliblablub said:
Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables
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I just bought a RocketFish USB car charger and cable From BestBuy. It charges wicked fast, even when using navi and or streaming. I believe is is 10 watts and 2.1 amp output. That adapter will probably fix ya up, I used to have the same problem but not any more
Sent from my gimped not yet unlocked Verizon One

Very slow Fire Stick

I bought the Fire stick initially to use with Kodi, which it currently is running. But I have noticed that the stick can get very slow, laggy, when navigating the fire home menu or playing games.
Even if kodi is closed there is a noticeable issue here, but i have no idea how to fix it, even if it can be fixed.

I have noticed with the sticks that sometimes they work like a champ, and other times they get really laggy. I finally just said screw it, and sold the sticks, and just went to all "boxes". That said, the FTV stick is an incredible value for what you get for the money. But if you are a heavy user, you may want to pop for the box.

If you have it plugged into a USB port on your TV or into a surge protector, change that and plug it directly into a wall outlet or a standard extension cord.

Terry T said:
If you have it plugged into a USB port on your TV or into a surge protector, change that and plug it directly into a wall outlet or a standard extension cord.
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Interesting. I understand the TV seeing as it could have less current going to it and people have reported it not being capable of updating when plugged into the tv, but what would surge protector change?

I bought two sticks at different times and set them both up plugged directly into the wall, everything was fast and worked well. Then when I installed them on the TVs I bought them for, I plugged them both into surge protectors and the performance was much slower and not at all what I had seen before. I then plugged one directly into the wall and the other into a standard extension cord and both were back to the fast performance I had originally seen.
My completely unsupported speculation is that the Stick at times pulls a spike of current that surge protectors are specifically designed to prevent, so it either can't do specific operations quickly or, because it now "knows" it can't draw the spike of current, it limits itself to a lower current draw and in general operates more slowly.

The device needs a stable voltage (5v in this case as it is a USB powered device). If the voltage was to drop the stick would power off / crash.
If you feel that it's not getting enough power then it's possible that it's not getting enough amperage. For example computer USB 2 ports are limited to 500ma (which is why phones charge slower from a computer than the wall charger) what might be happening is the USB power adapter you are using doesn't provide the amperage needed for the device.
Are you using the Amazon provided adapter? Is it getting unusually hot?
Do you have any other USB power adapters that put out a higher amperage?

It's very slow in response. And using KODI, you might as well forget about it. My first one was so slow, I called amazon to complain. They sent me a replacement. That did the same. So they both got returned. Darn shame as I like KODI, using Exodus. Constant freeze up. The processor just can't handle it.
I went back to my ROKU, and just order my movies from Redbox.......

Check to see if your router has 2 channels
Changing the power supply didn't work for me. What I figured is since there is network trouble, maybe there was a connection issue. My router has the option of 2.4 ghz signal or 5. I chose 2.4 for my firestick because my smart home is on that channel. I switched up to 5ghz which has the same password and my stick was back to working flawlessly and it actually didn't make a difference when telling the remote to turn on the lights.
X82X said:
I bought the Fire stick initially to use with Kodi, which it currently is running. But I have noticed that the stick can get very slow, laggy, when navigating the fire home menu or playing games.
Even if kodi is closed there is a noticeable issue here, but i have no idea how to fix it, even if it can be fixed.
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Click to collapse

What package do I need to enable fast wireless charging while using a USB DAC?

M:y phone is sitting in the official samsung wireless fast charger (the stand up one for the Note10+) I am also using the official cord and charger. With the phone fast charging in the holder I plug my chord Hugo 2 (an audio DAC, it doesn't charge or draw power at all) into the usb-c port and the phone reduces the charging speed from fast wireless to normal wireless. This dramatically slows the charging rate. The problem is entirely software based so I believe there is some sort of package I can disable to prevent this. The phone believes I am using the charging port to charge it or some other device but I am actually only using it to send digital data to the DAC. I have tried changing the settings for USB devices in developer options (transferring files, etc) but no luck. Thank you.

I need a fix too. Anything yet?

maybe it is just like that because it thinks it will overheat... on the lg g4 it only charged faster when it was not picked up or moved and i think screen off. well the screen was off when i used the watt meter

ike__1985 said:
M:y phone is sitting in the official samsung wireless fast charger (the stand up one for the Note10+) I am also using the official cord and charger. With the phone fast charging in the holder I plug my chord Hugo 2 (an audio DAC, it doesn't charge or draw power at all) into the usb-c port and the phone reduces the charging speed from fast wireless to normal wireless. This dramatically slows the charging rate. The problem is entirely software based so I believe there is some sort of package I can disable to prevent this. The phone believes I am using the charging port to charge it or some other device but I am actually only using it to send digital data to the DAC. I have tried changing the settings for USB devices in developer options (transferring files, etc) but no luck. Thank you.
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I spent sometime looking and I have not seen nor encountered any package you can disable to do what you want to do. Charging functions like that are gonna be android system files, and things like .dll, .sys, .cfg and etc. This excludes any form of hardware components that monitor, limit, protect and control charging.
To be honest circumventing the charging functionality on the phone is a potential recipe for disaster.. it's not fast charging for a reason. It could very well be a safety precaution to prevent damage or overheating.
When I read up on the device the DAC might be trying to draw power from the phone via the USB connection. I get the same thing when I plugin a USB-C to HDMI adapter into my phone, and the adapter is obviously drawing power. Even though one would figure it shouldn't be since it's just a little ol' adapter something, it obviously is because it does get a little warm to the touch. So I wouldn't discount the notion that the DAC is drawing power in some fashion, because the phone isn't throwing that charging message for no reason.
Try making sure the DAC is in desktop mode (or equivalent) when you use it, so the device is drawing from it's internal battery. You should contact the company that made the device and ask them for suggestions/ideas. It maybe as simple as getting a specific cable, a compatibility issue with the DAC or what you do when you plug the DAC into the phone. It may just very well be that there is no solution and this is how it will work.

scottusa2008 said:
I
spent sometime looking and I have not seen nor encountered any package you can disable to do what you want to do. Charging functions like that are gonna be android system files, and things like .dll, .sys, .cfg and etc. This excludes any form of hardware components that monitor, limit, protect and control charging.
To be honest circumventing the charging functionality on the phone is a potential recipe for disaster.. it's not fast charging for a reason. It could very well be a safety precaution to prevent damage or overheating.
When I read up on the device the DAC might be trying to draw power from the phone via the USB connection. I get the same thing when I plugin a USB-C to HDMI adapter into my phone, and the adapter is obviously drawing power. Even though one would figure it shouldn't be since it's just a little ol' adapter something, it obviously is because it does get a little warm to the touch. So I wouldn't discount the notion that the DAC is drawing power in some fashion, because the phone isn't throwing that charging message for no reason.
Try making sure the DAC is in desktop mode (or equivalent) when you use it, so the device is drawing from it's internal battery. You should contact the company that made the device and ask them for suggestions/ideas. It maybe as simple as getting a specific cable, a compatibility issue with the DAC or what you do when you plug the DAC into the phone. It may just very well be that there is no solution and this is how it will work
.
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Comprehensive and concise in your hypothesis. Thank you. Most likely something they took into account with any adapters. Going to do some other testing too.:highfive: