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I tried lordlockan's IceColdSandwich ROM, and while on it, my DHD went through a charge cycle from <5% to 100% fully charged via USB plugged to a computer USB port. To my surprise, in the first 40%(or maybe 50%) charge time, the charging current remained between 800-900ma, and this was with an HTC original USB cable. Needless to say, the charge time also greatly reduced to a little over two hours--almost the same as charging via AC.
I suppose this is the kernel's USB Fast Charge feature, and it's my first time experiencing such USB Fast Charge. On a few GB ROMs I've used, USB charge always has a charge current < 400ma. I checked various threads which have discussions on this topic, but I'm not sure what I experienced is normal. Hope someone in the know can answer my questions:
1. Does USB Fast Charge require specially mod cable, e.g. data-wires-shorted cable, or just any regular USB data cable can do with a kernel that supports this feature?
2. Someone told me that it's not safe to draw more than 500ma from a computer USB port, since USB 2.0 spec. mandates the safe charge current to be upper-bounded by 500ma. Even if larger charge current works, over time it could damage the computer USB port and even mother board. Is this true?
From what I read from various threads, the opinions are two-sided:
one view is like what I was told: do not overcharge with more than 500ma via USB 2.0 port.
But I also found many people with the opinion that it's OK to draw larger current from a computer's USB port, as long as the computer can provide it. Chad, who I believe is the original developer that came up with USB Fast Charge in the kernel, also said that it does no harm--the most one could lose is to still have slow USB charge if the computer USB port cannot provide more than 500ma charge current.
Which is true?
Thanks.
I guess it is intended for car chargers, but anyways take a look at this article: http://www.eetimes.com/design/power...B-battery-charging--it-s-harder-than-it-looks
seems like the USB PORT could offer up to 1.5A
I am not sure whether it is ClokaN or somebody else but they had mentioned that fast charging must not be used often until or unless necessity arises.
Hope this helps.
Unlikely to cause lasting harm, unlike cross posting on multiple threads.
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
Please use the Q&A Forum for questions &
Read the Forum Rules Ref Posting
Moving to Q&A
(Sorry for posting in the wrong thread.)
I'd like to summarize what clockan answered in another thread:
LorD ClockaN said:
I have a mod in kernel that no matter if you use car charger, usb cable or wall charger it charges every time like from stock wall charger.
the voltage and power is so little that it doesn't require any different cable
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Click to collapse
lord clockan said:
hchao said:
so, it's safe and ok to draw larger current than 500ma from a computer's usb 2.0 port. I've read from a few threads that people were warning against drawing large current from computer's usb port, but it seems the opposite opinion had more supports. I for one consider it illogical in thinking that drawing larger-than-spec'ed current from a usb port is harmful. After all, if it is harmful to the computer (the current provider), the computer should already have some control which prohibits from transferring larger current in the first place. If the consumer of the current is able to draw larger current than spec'ed, it should be an indication that the computer is able to handle it safely.
Anyhow, i believe that should be the answer to my second question.
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usb 2.0 can provide 1a no problem, you can also disable fast charge by adding fast charge toggle in rom control
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rakesh2002 said:
I guess it is intended for car chargers, but anyways take a look at this article: http://www.eetimes.com/design/power...B-battery-charging--it-s-harder-than-it-looks
seems like the USB PORT could offer up to 1.5A
I am not sure whether it is ClokaN or somebody else but they had mentioned that fast charging must not be used often until or unless necessity arises.
Hope this helps.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the pointer.
The 1.5A cited in that article is for the newly proposed " USB-IF Battery Charging Specification revision 1.2 (BC1.2)". I doubt there is any implementation on the market yet. However, my understanding is that pretty much most PCs and 3C devices (e.g. gaming consoles) shipped in the last few years can do USB charging at least up to 1A. (See also clockan's comment in my previous post.)
I remember once I triggered a Windows alarm popup warning me for abnormally high voltage in the USB when I used a screw driver to adjust a computer's USB port--perhaps I shorted some pins. Apparently Windows has built-in protection in monitoring USB port electricity. So, I beleieve now worrying about drawing a few hundred more mAs from a computer's USB port is unnecessary.
hchao said:
Thanks for the pointer.
The 1.5A cited in that article is for the newly proposed " USB-IF Battery Charging Specification revision 1.2 (BC1.2)". I doubt there is any implementation on the market yet. However, my understanding is that pretty much most PCs and 3C devices (e.g. gaming consoles) shipped in the last few years can do USB charging at least up to 1A. (See also clockan's comment in my previous post.)
I remember once I triggered a Windows alarm popup warning me for abnormally high voltage in the USB when I used a screw driver to adjust a computer's USB port--perhaps I shorted some pins. Apparently Windows has built-in protection in monitoring USB port electricity. So, I beleieve now worrying about drawing a few hundred more mAs from a computer's USB port is unnecessary.
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i also remember when i lost my Sony Z5 orginal charger ,decided to make a usb charging cable for my phone. as i remember it was used to be charged up very faster than ever, drawing higher current of PC USB port rising up both phone and usb cable temperature
finally nothing bad happend till i lost the phone itself as well!
One of my fires won't charge reliably. I am hoping to repair/resolder connections.
I found used motherboard for fifty dollars. Used board will be last resort.
Any pics or previous experience from anyone that might help.
Thanks
Before you do anything drastic, what ROM are you running?
soupmagnet said:
Before you do anything drastic, what ROM are you running?
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Cm ROM. Teenager sleeping with kindle plugged in. Has had charging issue for a while. I have four kindle fires, two cm7, one ICS, and one jellybean.
There was a father who had done some soder work in the usb area for his kid he was worried at one point he had made it to hot but it turned out to be ok I will search through some threads to see if I can locate his maybe it will have some insight for you...
TheKid2 said:
Cm ROM. Teenager sleeping with kindle plugged in. Has had charging issue for a while. I have four kindle fires, two cm7, one ICS, and one jellybean.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not quite sure what that means exactly.
The reason I'm wondering about which ROM the affected Kindle is running, is because the ICS and JB ROMs have had a similar charging issues from the very beginning. The latest version of the kernel was released last night with the charging issue fixed. You may want to upgrade before attempting anything like soldering on your USB connection.
Hopefully it is just the known ROM issue, which has now been fixed. I had difficulty charging my KF because the USB connector was coming loose from the mb. I had a hardware engineer attempt to re-solder it but he was not successful. The connector is very small and it is very difficult to re-solder. If it is a loose USB port, and you can get it back to stock, Amazon will replace it under warranty.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda premium
Go with the used board, but be sure that they match in serial number. The earliest releases of Kindle Fires used a different motherboad connector for the LCD, and are incompatible (found out the hard way). A good case opening kit helps keep from damaging the unit.
Motherboards are very hard to come by...
In that case, buy a unit with a broken screen on ebay. Make sure it's one that still powers on and charges (many will show the lcd working below the screen. More expensive, but you can keep the battery as a spare as well.
soupmagnet said:
I'm not quite sure what that means exactly.
The reason I'm wondering about which ROM the affected Kindle is running, is because the ICS and JB ROMs have had a similar charging issues from the very beginning. The latest version of the kernel was released last night with the charging issue fixed. You may want to upgrade before attempting anything like soldering on your USB connection.
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Click to collapse
Running CM7, not sure of exact rom its been on there so long.
mthous01 said:
In that case, buy a unit with a broken screen on ebay. Make sure it's one that still powers on and charges (many will show the lcd working below the screen. More expensive, but you can keep the battery as a spare as well.
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Click to collapse
Not sure how to identify board revision on ebay?
Ask for revision number and/or serial number and make sure that they match. Even better, get a picture of the board so that you can see they are the same.
mthous01 said:
Ask for revision number and/or serial number and make sure that they match. Even better, get a picture of the board so that you can see they are the same.
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Click to collapse
If it is just a kindle with a broken screen someone is trying to sell, they probably arn't willing to crack it open just to check the motherboard.
Don't buy without proper info. Buyer protection only works so well.
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2
Thanks for all the replies.
It looks like if I had a nice hot air rework station I could repair it in just a few minutes. Right now just prying on charger connection to continue charging. I may just wait for it to die completely, afraid I will kill it with soldering iron.
if you make a TWRP backup and copy it to the computer, if/when you replace the motherboard (getting cheaper as the new Kindle Fire rolls out), you can copy this bac kup folder back to the new motherboard and restore. I have done this when I get a solid working JB ROM on a system, just so that I can go back to fresh quickly and easily. Also, suggest that you use Kindle Nullifire on any board bought from anywhere, as it will zero-write the internal sd card, and avoid issues more issues than you would imagine. It's worth the extra 10-15 minutes to do so.
Of Kindles and Chargers and Broken USB Ports
Kindle Battery:
Most of the inside of your Kindle is a huge battery. It requires a ‘hefty’ charger to charge it and keep it healthy.
Chargers:
While the Kindle Fire calls out for a 1.8 amp charger, I would recommend a 2.0 amp charger for the Kindle. iPad 2 chargers, 2.0 or 2.1 amp rating, with USB ports can be used with appropriate USB micro charging cables to work really well.
Many chargers are over rated and many have cheap thin wire that cannot deliver enough amperage to the kindle port and it will not "shift" into charge mode.
A Kindle will pull about 700mA from a charger, and the charger rating printing is mostly marketing and most of them do not deliver that wattage on a constant sustained level.
Charger/USB charger cable thickness:
If using USB to USB micro data cable make sure it is a thick wire cable that can push out the current from charger to kindle. Thin charger cables are conduits of squished electron flow and will not “shift into gear” the Kindle into charging mode.
Helpful hint:
If charger is not working, power down kindle and try:
Unplug charger.
Power off kindle
Plug in charger
Kindle should wake up in "charge mode"
Having fixed many Kindles lately, I am seeing charger issues, and plugging and replugging the USB cable in cause 50% of broken USB port problems.
Hope these hints will help.
A. Zubair, EE
Hey all,
The ONE gets too hot... Solved :good:
The ONE charges slowly... Solved :good:
My HTC ONE was charging very VERY slowly since I got it... And it was actually discharging slowly if plugged in and using navigation in the car..
Now, I don't have the original HTC car charger and its a stupid amount to pay for that...
I've used over a dozen of cables and chargers but none of them would charge properly...
Ordered this earlier this week and it got delivered today
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321159008835&ssPageName=ADME:L:eek:C:GB:3160
Looks decent, and I would highly recommend it for anyone having charging problems with universal USB chargers.
Just tested it, I fired up Waze (which I usually use), Mobile Data, GPS, Skype in background and anything that would run in the background using as much power as it can .... Streaming Music over Bluetooth.. Screen was ON all the time with MAX brightness
My ONE slowly (really slowly) went from 53% to 54% ..:laugh::laugh:
Regarding ROM etc (if it makes any difference) , I'm running Viper One with ElementalX Kernel. 384Mhz Min and 1674 Max. Undervolted to -50mV & Fastcharge ... plus an Air Vent mounted phone holder for cooling features .. The ONE gets too hot
I can finally use the ONE as a proper nav, without having to worry about switching the screen off every now and then...
Sounds good, and in what charger you use?
Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.
Kraize said:
Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.
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Click to collapse
That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.
rancor22 said:
That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.
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Click to collapse
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
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Click to collapse
Yep, might not fry a powered USB 3.0 port but don't try this.
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
Mpro747 said:
Sounds good, and in what charger you use?
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Click to collapse
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
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Click to collapse
Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you guys might wanna look at this sweet babe, you will know exactly how many hours to fully charge ur HTC One :silly:
http://www.thepowerpot.com/solar-power-optimized-practical-meter
hmm interesting, but if the 24awg cable has a potential of frying your usb port, guess what this one will do
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4
Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 24AWG wire used in the cable does nothing for helping your phone charge faster, its the fact that the two data lines are shorted in the cable. This tells the device that it is connected to a dedicated charger, even if it is not, and that it can pull however much current it needs.
Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.
Vincent Law said:
Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.
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Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.
rancor22 said:
Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.
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Click to collapse
That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.
Vincent Law said:
That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.
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Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.
rancor22 said:
Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.
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Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.
Vincent Law said:
Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.
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Click to collapse
I am not disagreeing with you that hosts can control and meter power but it does that by assuming the end device will also follow usb spec and is listening to what it is saying. So yes what I am saying is that for a device that does not follow USB spec and does not enumerate the only current control it receives is a hardware current limit. I don't know the whole usb spec well I know battery charging specifications so if this is completely wrong can you point me to the part of the USB specifications where it says the host must limit current draw. In a perfect system the hardware current limit will change as the host specifies how much power the device is allowed to draw, but more likely the protection IC(s) are just there in the case of a short, esd, or a device that is supplying power to the host (reverse current).
Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables
bliblablub said:
Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables
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I just bought a RocketFish USB car charger and cable From BestBuy. It charges wicked fast, even when using navi and or streaming. I believe is is 10 watts and 2.1 amp output. That adapter will probably fix ya up, I used to have the same problem but not any more
Sent from my gimped not yet unlocked Verizon One
My Fire TV stick acts up when powered from the TV usb. It works fine from the AC adapter but I'd rather use the USB because it is less clutter. Will something like this solve my issue?:
amazon.com/PortaPow-Fast-Charge-Blackberry-Charging/dp/B00GC4AJOU
(can't post links yet)
bobbintb said:
My Fire TV stick acts up when powered from the TV usb. It works fine from the AC adapter but I'd rather use the USB because it is less clutter. Will something like this solve my issue?:
amazon.com/PortaPow-Fast-Charge-Blackberry-Charging/dp/B00GC4AJOU
(can't post links yet)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wouldn't hurt to try it out. As per specs it says it will charge similar to the rapid charger I believe. Give it a shot its cheap.
bobbintb said:
My Fire TV stick acts up when powered from the TV usb. It works fine from the AC adapter but I'd rather use the USB because it is less clutter. Will something like this solve my issue?:
amazon.com/PortaPow-Fast-Charge-Blackberry-Charging/dp/B00GC4AJOU
(can't post links yet)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am using an old original iphone usb charger and everything works fine
Zenroid said:
I am using an old original iphone usb charger and everything works fine
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OP (Original Poster) is trying to circumvent the use of an external power supply and use the usb service/media port of the television for less wire clutter by the outlet/powerstrip. Due to power requirements of stick and power limitations of most television usb ports, the device he references is quite interesting and I hope someone may give back some postitive feedback on it. I also would like to know on top of meeting the power requirements for the stick, does it block remote control codes from TV's being sent to the stick through hdmi. I would not go with the model that blocks data for that purpose but then again, the blocking of data model my work better for original question.
rp201 said:
OP (Original Poster) is trying to circumvent the use of an external power supply and use the usb service/media port of the television for less wire clutter by the outlet/powerstrip. Due to power requirements of stick and power limitations of most television usb ports, the device he references is quite interesting and I hope someone may give back some postitive feedback on it. I also would like to know on top of meeting the power requirements for the stick, does it block remote control codes from TV's being sent to the stick through hdmi. I would not go with the model that blocks data for that purpose but then again, the blocking of data model my work better for original question.
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Click to collapse
Oh yes missed the whole point I guess I would like to know as well if such device works and I got power warning from fire tv when I go to software update page other than that no such warning
rp201 said:
OP (Original Poster) is trying to circumvent the use of an external power supply and use the usb service/media port of the television for less wire clutter by the outlet/powerstrip. Due to power requirements of stick and power limitations of most television usb ports, the device he references is quite interesting and I hope someone may give back some postitive feedback on it. I also would like to know on top of meeting the power requirements for the stick, does it block remote control codes from TV's being sent to the stick through hdmi. I would not go with the model that blocks data for that purpose but then again, the blocking of data model my work better for original question.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that is correct, I am trying to about using an external power supply. Maybe I will just have to suck it up and be the guinea pig. I am just a little hesitant because I figured I would be able to find more info on it if it does work. I can't be the first person that thought of this. But in theory, it should work. The USB standard is 5 volts with varying amperes, depending on how the devices negotiate it. Well, it's a service port so I imagine it's doesn't do any sort of power negotiation and so it just supplies a low amperage. The only real concern I have is that this seems to be designed for a phone charger and may not really work in this scenario. I think I will have to check my TV USB with a multimeter and see if it is sending enough and just not negotiating. If it is not sending enough amps, I don't think this will help.
As for the CEC feature for HDMI, I don't see how this would interfere with it at all.
I believe the device posted in OPs post does the same thing as this hack seen here: http://blog.seani.am/2011/08/charge-only-microusb-cable/
Therefore you can just create your own or buy a "fast charge" cable somewhere.
If you're going to create your own cable I suggest you read other sites instructions too just to be sure you know what you're doing.
wqwrqrfq said:
I believe the device posted in OPs post does the same thing as this hack seen here: http://blog.seani.am/2011/08/charge-only-microusb-cable/
Therefore you can just create your own or buy a "fast charge" cable somewhere.
If you're going to create your own cable I suggest you read other sites instructions too just to be sure you know what you're doing.
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Click to collapse
it would be wise to know how many milliamps the usb port on the tv puts out, because if the tv uses the minimum output for 2.0 then it doesnt matter what cable you use its not going to increase the milliamps to the device. The charger block for the fire tv is 3.3 amps so i would recommend you use an extension cord from the wall to behind the tv and then plug the tv and firetv charger block in so all is hidden behind the tv and the firetv has enough power
rontonomo said:
it would be wise to know how many milliamps the usb port on the tv puts out, because if the tv uses the minimum output for 2.0 then it doesnt matter what cable you use its not going to increase the milliamps to the device. The charger block for the fire tv is 3.3 amps so i would recommend you use an extension cord from the wall to behind the tv and then plug the tv and firetv charger block in so all is hidden behind the tv and the firetv has enough power
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Click to collapse
Yea, I thought of that a earlier. Good point. Now that I think about it that's probably the case, the TV isn't outputting enough in the first place and I don't think I can do anything about that short of taking apart the TV and altering the circuit to output more amps. Those service ports were never really meant to be used to power anything but that will probably change with more of these devices floating around.
bobbintb said:
Yea, I thought of that a earlier. Good point. Now that I think about it that's probably the case, the TV isn't outputting enough in the first place and I don't think I can do anything about that short of taking apart the TV and altering the circuit to output more amps. Those service ports were never really meant to be used to power anything but that will probably change with more of these devices floating around.
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the TV is unlikely to be putting out more than the USB 2.0 standard [email protected] (although there are a few TVs that do. and some that will do less, lol.) - which is not close to enough - when I first was setting up my stick (trying with the TV usb power) it constantly gave messages of not enough power.
like everyone else, I am also very curious about the device you linked in OP. it could work! or, it could do nothing ... or, it could blow out the TV's usb port regulators from current over-draw
I really want to know!
tarvoke said:
like everyone else, I am also very curious about the device you linked in OP. it could work! or, it could do nothing ... or, it could blow out the TV's usb port regulators from current over-draw
I really want to know!
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It is just a dumb passthrough so unless the TV is capable of outputing more amps and just isn't, it probably does nothing in this case. But I'll update if I find out for certain, but I have to pull out my mulitimeter first.
I was thinking the device was using some kind of capacitive circuitry to store voltage to maintain certain voltage levels during short drops. the more I think about it, it probably pertains to more of a thumb drive environment. Never know till you try. I hate to be a doubting thomas but it doesn't look like it's going to work. w=VxI 5watts=5voltsx1amp not sure how you going to turn a 500mA tv usbport into 1000mA. I always thought adding more circuitry adds more impedance which creates voltage drops and lowers total power throughput. if the device itself had it's own power source then... but that would defeat the purpose I keep an open mind though cause I haven't done circuitry in decades.
all the device in the OP does is tell the firetv (or any usb device) that its plugged into a charger and not a usb data device so no power is lost for data transfer. This is the same thing as hacking a usb micro charge cable by faulting the data cables so the device (in this case firetv, but could also be phones or any other usb device) thinks is only a charger plugged in not a data device so it will give all the available power (which in this case would be the max output of the tv usb port) to the charger. so if it was a device with a battery it would charge faster, but it still isnt gonna make extra power out of thin air, meaning that its most likely not goning to have anywhere enough juice to power the firetv correctly. if you want to make that device in the op yourself google how to make a fast charge cable its the same thing
You are literally "playing with fire"....standard USB ports will not supply proper current to run any unintended device or charge circuit, voids your warranty for both products, risks permanent damage up to and including risk of meltdown or fire. Short answer: DON"T DO IT, use the supplied power for it's intended use ONLY for the product it came with, unless you are looking to test your insurance policy and safety. Also anything you plug into a data capable (including HDMI) port essentially cuts the microprocessor data line and inserts an potential unknown, add inappropriate power draw and you have a recipe for disaster. 30 + years experience fixing failed circuits in consumer and industrial products.
M:y phone is sitting in the official samsung wireless fast charger (the stand up one for the Note10+) I am also using the official cord and charger. With the phone fast charging in the holder I plug my chord Hugo 2 (an audio DAC, it doesn't charge or draw power at all) into the usb-c port and the phone reduces the charging speed from fast wireless to normal wireless. This dramatically slows the charging rate. The problem is entirely software based so I believe there is some sort of package I can disable to prevent this. The phone believes I am using the charging port to charge it or some other device but I am actually only using it to send digital data to the DAC. I have tried changing the settings for USB devices in developer options (transferring files, etc) but no luck. Thank you.
I need a fix too. Anything yet?
maybe it is just like that because it thinks it will overheat... on the lg g4 it only charged faster when it was not picked up or moved and i think screen off. well the screen was off when i used the watt meter
ike__1985 said:
M:y phone is sitting in the official samsung wireless fast charger (the stand up one for the Note10+) I am also using the official cord and charger. With the phone fast charging in the holder I plug my chord Hugo 2 (an audio DAC, it doesn't charge or draw power at all) into the usb-c port and the phone reduces the charging speed from fast wireless to normal wireless. This dramatically slows the charging rate. The problem is entirely software based so I believe there is some sort of package I can disable to prevent this. The phone believes I am using the charging port to charge it or some other device but I am actually only using it to send digital data to the DAC. I have tried changing the settings for USB devices in developer options (transferring files, etc) but no luck. Thank you.
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I spent sometime looking and I have not seen nor encountered any package you can disable to do what you want to do. Charging functions like that are gonna be android system files, and things like .dll, .sys, .cfg and etc. This excludes any form of hardware components that monitor, limit, protect and control charging.
To be honest circumventing the charging functionality on the phone is a potential recipe for disaster.. it's not fast charging for a reason. It could very well be a safety precaution to prevent damage or overheating.
When I read up on the device the DAC might be trying to draw power from the phone via the USB connection. I get the same thing when I plugin a USB-C to HDMI adapter into my phone, and the adapter is obviously drawing power. Even though one would figure it shouldn't be since it's just a little ol' adapter something, it obviously is because it does get a little warm to the touch. So I wouldn't discount the notion that the DAC is drawing power in some fashion, because the phone isn't throwing that charging message for no reason.
Try making sure the DAC is in desktop mode (or equivalent) when you use it, so the device is drawing from it's internal battery. You should contact the company that made the device and ask them for suggestions/ideas. It maybe as simple as getting a specific cable, a compatibility issue with the DAC or what you do when you plug the DAC into the phone. It may just very well be that there is no solution and this is how it will work.
scottusa2008 said:
I
spent sometime looking and I have not seen nor encountered any package you can disable to do what you want to do. Charging functions like that are gonna be android system files, and things like .dll, .sys, .cfg and etc. This excludes any form of hardware components that monitor, limit, protect and control charging.
To be honest circumventing the charging functionality on the phone is a potential recipe for disaster.. it's not fast charging for a reason. It could very well be a safety precaution to prevent damage or overheating.
When I read up on the device the DAC might be trying to draw power from the phone via the USB connection. I get the same thing when I plugin a USB-C to HDMI adapter into my phone, and the adapter is obviously drawing power. Even though one would figure it shouldn't be since it's just a little ol' adapter something, it obviously is because it does get a little warm to the touch. So I wouldn't discount the notion that the DAC is drawing power in some fashion, because the phone isn't throwing that charging message for no reason.
Try making sure the DAC is in desktop mode (or equivalent) when you use it, so the device is drawing from it's internal battery. You should contact the company that made the device and ask them for suggestions/ideas. It maybe as simple as getting a specific cable, a compatibility issue with the DAC or what you do when you plug the DAC into the phone. It may just very well be that there is no solution and this is how it will work
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Comprehensive and concise in your hypothesis. Thank you. Most likely something they took into account with any adapters. Going to do some other testing too.:highfive: