Hey all,
The ONE gets too hot... Solved :good:
The ONE charges slowly... Solved :good:
My HTC ONE was charging very VERY slowly since I got it... And it was actually discharging slowly if plugged in and using navigation in the car..
Now, I don't have the original HTC car charger and its a stupid amount to pay for that...
I've used over a dozen of cables and chargers but none of them would charge properly...
Ordered this earlier this week and it got delivered today
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321159008835&ssPageName=ADME:L:eek:C:GB:3160
Looks decent, and I would highly recommend it for anyone having charging problems with universal USB chargers.
Just tested it, I fired up Waze (which I usually use), Mobile Data, GPS, Skype in background and anything that would run in the background using as much power as it can .... Streaming Music over Bluetooth.. Screen was ON all the time with MAX brightness
My ONE slowly (really slowly) went from 53% to 54% ..:laugh::laugh:
Regarding ROM etc (if it makes any difference) , I'm running Viper One with ElementalX Kernel. 384Mhz Min and 1674 Max. Undervolted to -50mV & Fastcharge ... plus an Air Vent mounted phone holder for cooling features .. The ONE gets too hot
I can finally use the ONE as a proper nav, without having to worry about switching the screen off every now and then...
Sounds good, and in what charger you use?
Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.
Kraize said:
Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.
rancor22 said:
That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.
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Click to collapse
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
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Click to collapse
Yep, might not fry a powered USB 3.0 port but don't try this.
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
Mpro747 said:
Sounds good, and in what charger you use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
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Click to collapse
Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you guys might wanna look at this sweet babe, you will know exactly how many hours to fully charge ur HTC One :silly:
http://www.thepowerpot.com/solar-power-optimized-practical-meter
hmm interesting, but if the 24awg cable has a potential of frying your usb port, guess what this one will do
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4
Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 24AWG wire used in the cable does nothing for helping your phone charge faster, its the fact that the two data lines are shorted in the cable. This tells the device that it is connected to a dedicated charger, even if it is not, and that it can pull however much current it needs.
Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.
Vincent Law said:
Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.
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Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.
rancor22 said:
Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.
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That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.
Vincent Law said:
That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.
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Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.
rancor22 said:
Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.
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Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.
Vincent Law said:
Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.
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I am not disagreeing with you that hosts can control and meter power but it does that by assuming the end device will also follow usb spec and is listening to what it is saying. So yes what I am saying is that for a device that does not follow USB spec and does not enumerate the only current control it receives is a hardware current limit. I don't know the whole usb spec well I know battery charging specifications so if this is completely wrong can you point me to the part of the USB specifications where it says the host must limit current draw. In a perfect system the hardware current limit will change as the host specifies how much power the device is allowed to draw, but more likely the protection IC(s) are just there in the case of a short, esd, or a device that is supplying power to the host (reverse current).
Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables
bliblablub said:
Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just bought a RocketFish USB car charger and cable From BestBuy. It charges wicked fast, even when using navi and or streaming. I believe is is 10 watts and 2.1 amp output. That adapter will probably fix ya up, I used to have the same problem but not any more
Sent from my gimped not yet unlocked Verizon One
Related
I have travelled to devon on Saturday and used Google maps navigation which is simply superb as u could see the traffic jams in advance (believe me there were plenty of them) I had my phone charger charging my desire but the battery drained still any idea why surely the charger should charge it or keep the power at the same level ?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Anyone surely someone must know why the car charger hasn't enough power to charge the phone when running navigation and the normal phone functions
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
I have no solution but I have the same problem. Quite frustrating.
You need a charger that outputs at least 1000mA. Most in-car chargers only output 500mA, and so the phone will discharge quicker than the charger can charge it.
Regards,
Dave
foxmeister said:
You need a charger that outputs at least 1000mA. Most in-car chargers only output 500mA, and so the phone will discharge quicker than the charger can charge it.
Regards,
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
especially with some GPS apps that consume lots of juice...
Any suggestions which are the best chargers ? Does anyone know what the new HTC dock will incorporate ?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Get a cheap USB cable extender, cut it in half and short the middle 2 pins. Don't remember what colours they are. Look on Wikipedia.
I had same problem. Not anymore. Charges properly when I plug in through the custom cable.
This is a common problem.
It bugged me sufficiently that I investigated it in detail.
The Desire, and presumably some (all?) other HTC phones, employ relatively complex charging circuitry.
When you plug a USB cable into the phone, the phone does at least two different checks to determine what type of power source you have just connected.
If you have plugged in a mains powered official HTC charger, which has a rated output of 1A, then the phone knows that it is safe to draw a maximum of 1A from that charger.
The phone will then draw enough current to power itself and, on top of that, charge the battery at the same time.
This current will typically be in the region of 800mA (0.8A) to 900mA (0.9A).
Under these conditions there is enough current to power all the functions of the phone, including WiFi, Bluetooth and GPS, as well as the usual GSM radio and the phone's other functions, as well as being able to charge the battery.
However, if the phone believes that it is connected to a power source with a lower rating such as a standard USB port, then it will limit the maximum current that it draws from that power source to between 400mA (0.4A) and 500mA (0.5A) as this is the maximum officially provided by a USB port.
In other words, the phone is intelligent enough not to overload a standard USB port but, when more power is available, it is able to use it.
The mechanism that HTC uses to detect a power supply capable of supplying 1A, as opposed to a USB port, is very simple indeed.
When the phone detects that an external power source has been connected, it checks to see if the two data lines of the USB connector on the bottom of the phone have been short-circuited.
If they have been short-circuited, the phone takes this to mean that a suitable power source has been connected providing a current of at least 1A.
If the data lines are not short-circuited, the phone assumes that the power is coming from a USB port or other device not capable of providing more than 500mA.
In practice, the way this has been implemented is that within the official mains powered HTC charger, the two data pins of the USB connector are shorted together.
As soon as you connect this charger to the Desire, the phone detects the short-circuit and knows that it is connected to a charger capable of supplying 1A.
This particular trick seems to be something unique to HTC rather than being a universal standard, although this is a bit of a guess on my part based on having looked at only a few other chargers.
What this means is that if you have a car charger that is rated at 1A or higher, your HTC Desire will still only draw a maximum of 500mA from this charger.
This problem is easily rectified by opening up the charger and soldering together the two centre pens of the USB connector so that the phone sees this short-circuit and realises that it can safely draw I higher current from the charger.
Unless you know what you are doing and fully understand what I have explained above, then please don't go fiddling around with your charger.
I have carried out this modification myself on a couple of non-HTC mains-powered chargers and a couple of 12V car chargers with 100% success.
I have, however, found that some 12V chargers, even though they are rated at 1A or even 1.5A do not result in the Desire drawing the expected current.
What I found was that the phone would draw only about 250mA and then, after I had shorted the data terminals within the charger, the phone would draw about 450mA but not the 850mA or so that I had expected.
I have yet to determine with certainty why this is but it appears that as the phone begins to draw current from the charger it is able to detect if there is even a relatively small dip in the voltage coming from the charger and, if so, the phone backs off on the amount of current that it draws.
I will be doing a few more tests in my electronics lab to try and get to the bottom of this and provide a more detailed analysis and, hopefully, a useful solution.
In the meantime though, I have at least solved the problem that I was having and, based on numerous forum posts, the same problem that many other people have been having with car chargers not effectively charging the Desire.
Tim
mercianary said:
Get a cheap USB cable extender, cut it in half and short the middle 2 pins. Don't remember what colours they are. Look on Wikipedia.
I had same problem. Not anymore. Charges properly when I plug in through the custom cable.
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Click to collapse
Snap!
I didn't see your post before making mine (above) but my experimentation agrees fully with what you've said.
You can do it the way you've described, by modifying a cable, or you can do it inside the charger itself.
Just make sure that the cable going to the phone has all four USB wires in it. Some of them only have the two power wires, so the phone will never detect the short circuited data lines.
Tim
If you do not want to open your car charger, you can always create a male to female adapter that shots D+ and D- on the female side like the one in the attached picture
Obviously, the charger needs to be able to provide the 1Amps that are needed. If not, it will at best shutdown in protection mode, at worst fry completely with a great chance of fire...
Interesting stuff...
I bought an official HTC car charger and noticed that the included usb cable, when plugged into a pc, does not allow data transfer, only charging.
Can anyone explain that ? Why would there be a difference in the wiring ?
They want you to buy an official USB cable I guess ? Considering any microusb cable works I'm surprised they bother
Maybe because they just put the two VCC and GND wires in there, thus saving on the cabling cost.
Ok how about this then......
I have a USB port I'm my car (to plug in music on a dongle I presume) if I use the USB lead from my charger supplied with the phone (which also works as a data cable) I get a the charging status icon on the battery bar.
So......
Is my phone charging at 1 amp on the car, and at home or am I getting 0.5 on both or something else?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
_Crusoe_ said:
Ok how about this then......
I have a USB port I'm my car (to plug in music on a dongle I presume) if I use the USB lead from my charger supplied with the phone (which also works as a data cable) I get a the charging status icon on the battery bar.
So......
Is my phone charging at 1 amp on the car, and at home or am I getting 0.5 on both or something else?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you check your battery stats by dialing *#*#4636#*#* and look at battery info, then you can see if it is charged by USB (max 500 mA) or at AC (more then 500mA)
I bought the official HTC charger, works perfectly.
thanks a lot for the explanation. I went for an uprated USB car charger but was still using normal cables to plug into it and the phone wasnt keeping up when bluetooth and GPS was on and was flat by the end of a long journey. Have tried the mod and phone is showing as plugged into AC so hopefully this is going to sort my issues.
So am I right in saying that, unless you get one which has been adapted as described above, there is no real difference between one in-car charger and another - none of them will be up to the job of keeping the phone full of jiuce whilst running GPS over a long journey.
Was thinking of shelling out for a Brodit kit, but at £50+, I'll stick with a cheap one.
Narco77 said:
Interesting stuff...
I bought an official HTC car charger and noticed that the included usb cable, when plugged into a pc, does not allow data transfer, only charging.
Can anyone explain that ? Why would there be a difference in the wiring ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the offical charger and the usb cable is fine for data transfer.
Bingo Accent said:
So am I right in saying that, unless you get one which has been adapted as described above, there is no real difference between one in-car charger and another - none of them will be up to the job of keeping the phone full of jiuce whilst running GPS over a long journey.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really.
For the "mod" to work, your charger must be able to source at least 1000mA which most can't anyway.
So you first have to find a charger that does and then, if it's not already the case, short the D+ and D- cables together.
Note that this can be done by disassembling the charger (not being sure of being able to put it back together), by using conductive glue on the USB plug itself (a bit invasive) or by using an adapter like the one I shown in my previous message (but you need to do it yourself or have someone do it for you)
I know this is mostly common knowledge but I still see many questions regarding this come up, so instead of explaining this over and over I can now link to this and flame away.
anyway...
When you charge your phone using an original HTC wall charger you phone gets all the power it needs to run itself and charge (up to 1000ma).
When you charge from any (most) other devices (this includes car chargers,non HTC wall chargers or any USB port) your phone will draw up to 500ma (the USB standard) REGARDLESS of the devices output.
The reason why the phone only draws 500ma on USB is so it does not damage any equipment by drawing more power than it can output safely (by design anything with a USB port can safely output 500ma).
The trouble is pretty much all equipment can safely output more than the USB standard of 500ma and safely charge your phone at full speed.
The phone distinguishes between an original HTC charger and other devices by whether or not the data wires are shorted (connected to each other).
How to do the charger mod.
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for anything that may happen as a result of doing this, by following these instructions you will be pushing any device you charge your phone from beyond the USB specifications, results of this may be, but not limited to your motherboard bursting into flames, you car exploding, the inventor/s of USB knocking on your door and slapping you in the face, but most probably faster charging and not a lot else.
Get yourself a short USB extender wire, male at one end, female at the other.
Cut the wire in half.
Connect the red and black wires up as they were before (or don't cut them in step 1).
On the Female side of the wire connect the green and white wires together.
On the Male side of the wire simply leave the green and white wires connected to nothing.
Insulate the ends of all of the wires with insulating tape.
Tie a knot in the wire so if the wire is pulled the knot is pulled and not the connection you made, it doesn't look pretty but the wire will last a lifetime this way.
All done, now use this wire in between your desire and whatever you want to charge from and get a full speed charge. You will lose data connectivity when using this wire.
There are other ways of doing this, for example.
Soldering together the data pins (middle 2) on the device you wish to charge from. Don't do this on your laptop...this method is intended for car chargers, wall plugs, and external USB battery packs.
Soldering together a male and female USB port and plug directly with no wire in between, this can look really good if you know what your doing.
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
ste1164 said:
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a 3rd party changer and I did this mod and it's working really great it's charging really fast
ste1164 said:
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
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Click to collapse
The original charger shorts the data pins so it doesn't matter what cable you use.
Hi,
just wanted to say thank you for the idea. For me this is really usefull in some situations at work, where I have no access to a socket, but a pc.
It charges not as fast as the AC charger, but MUCH faster, than the usual 500mah USB method.
And so does it look like:
fileden.com/files/2006/9/25/238757/charger2.jpg
fileden.com/files/2006/9/25/238757/charger1.jpg
TrTech said:
just wanted to say thank you for the idea. For me this is really usefull in some situations at work, where I have no access to a socket, but a pc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And next time, use your brain first, please.
Do you have an idea why the HTC Desire does limit the current to 500mA if it's not connected to a dedicated charger which shorts the two data pins? Ever thought about it? Ever?
Umm... yes. But please feel free to enlight me.
TrTech said:
Umm... yes. But please feel free to enlight me.
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Click to collapse
umm, and I thought the post starter already answered this question:
The reason why the phone only draws 500ma on USB is so it does not damage any equipment by drawing more power than it can output safely (by design anything with a USB port can safely output 500ma).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So in other words:
Any laptop or computer can output max. 500mA by USB specifications.
So this means:
You can have luck and your computer doesn't get damaged if more current gets requested, it just limits the current to something around 500mA.
You can have luck and your computer just shuts down the USB port and Windows reports you that a malfunction device got connected.
You can have bad luck, most often the case, especially on cheap notebooks, netbooks, computers, a fuse will prevent bigger damage and the USB port remains dead until the rest of it's computer live.
So the limit got wisely chosen. So if you want to use your USB ports in the future, too, then only use this 'trick' on wall adapters which support an output current equal or larger than 1A (1000mA), or use it only in combination with USB ports which support that high currents (most often advertised as being able to charge the Apple IPad), most often found on external USB hubs.
UpSpin said:
umm, and I thought the post starter already answered this question
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Me too. Its all written in the first post and I'm doing it on my own risk. Still wondering about your raging post.
I will update this, as soon as the first pc was fried.
TrTech said:
Me too. Its all written in the first post and I'm doing it on my own risk. Still wondering about your raging post.
I will update this, as soon as the first pc was fried.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was that 'unfriendly' because other people will do the same, because person xy said that it works. Then they fry their mainboard or notebook and complain.
I also don't understand why anyone risks damaging intentionally its computer or parts of it, especially if there's absolutely no need for it, e.g. just let it charge in USB mode, or take a small charger with you, or at least use two USB ports to separate the load.
But well, maybe some people don't have to take care of their computer.
This is an interesting thread. I have a Pebble charger and it literally takes four hours to charge my 1400mAh from ~0% to 100%, now my question is, will this damage my Pebble charger shorting the two wires to draw a greater current from the unit?
Overheating, melting and explosions are something I am looking to avoid.
I have yet to find a device that has been damaged doing this. I have personally tried this on a ps3, Xbox wii, 4 laptops 2 desktops, car radio,car charger and a sky+ box.
Kalavere said:
This is an interesting thread. I have a Pebble charger and it literally takes four hours to charge my 1400mAh from ~0% to 100%, now my question is, will this damage my Pebble charger shorting the two wires to draw a greater current from the unit?
Overheating, melting and explosions are something I am looking to avoid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try this? I too have a Pebble and would be interested to know if I have just 30 minutes to plug it in, can I charge quicker.
Also, did the guys PC blow up? He said he would come back!?!? Maybe it did and he's in hospital still Dangerous things USB ports...
thanks for this ! I go to try this
MM i have an interesting one (which i still dont get)
i have a pebble charger
with OEM HTC Micro USB charger cable
and Pebble charger
plug phone into OEM micro USB charger to phone (phone says Power AC) yeh thats right
OEM Micro USB to computer (chargin USB)
So far so good
Pebble charger OEM USB to phone (chargin USB)
Pebble Cable charger to phone ( Power AC)
why are the OEM and Pebble charger cables different?
Sorry if i am posting in the wrong area but the topics seem pretty similar to me =P
to put my 2pence in, i've just done this but slightly different than the OP method..
i bought the belkin car charger, gives 1amp, but is detected as 'USB', not 'AC' charging mode, so my phone only charges upto 500ma which isnt enough (in reality it doesnt charge when i have GPS & max screen brightness).
instead of modding a USB cable (unable to use for data) or buying extra kit (money/ordering/going out) i pulled a strand of wire from a spare mains cable i had, threaded it through the 2 center pins on the belkin charger and then twisted the wire together.
USB cable is slightly tighter in the socket now, but still removable and keeps everything nice and tidy.... and more to the point; cheap!
poor shown from belkin; 'USB charger' mode in a car! like it would ever have data connection to the 12v socket.
hope that helps someone!
USB cable to quick-charge an HTC smartphone
Check http://winhlp.com/node/855 for some more details and photos of a USB cable modification.
Does this mod change the detection of car mode
Hi,
I have just started flashing a couple of roms and noticed that when using my desire with my car charger (1amp rated) it does not charge when doing navigation. looking on battery widget I get a max 289mw on car charge and it is showing as a USB charge. Flashed back to stock and now the car charger shows up as ac connected rather than USB. This does solve the discharging on navigation issue but I would like to run Gingerbread.
my question is...
Will this mod stop the Desire detecting and automatically entering car mode when it is plugged in? Anyone done it to their car charger?
Ta
Yes
The cable modification (shorting the data lines 2 and 3, instructions at http://winhlp.com/node/855 ) will switch any HTC smartphone into AC charging mode.
But I am totally stumped as to why you can achieve AC charging mode without this mod. I know of no other way the HTC phone could detect a car USB charger. I'm tempted to ask you to repeat the test.
If anybody here has any idea, please respond. To the best of my knowledge no USB device is allowed to pull more than 0.5 A from USB power, lest the power source switch off according to the USB specification. The only exception is that the device gets positive information that it is connected to a charger that can deliver a higher current, and for HTC devices that is signalled by a shortcut between the two data lines.
Thank you. I would rather not check again I did look for a while. Reverted back to stock for now.
It is a Huawei curly lead car charger with a 1a rating. The strangest thing is that with my stock Vodafone rom it detects as AC power on battery widget but on both leedroid and RCMix it shows up as a USB charge and I get the power issue. On all three roms it detects car mode correctly (Which is good!).
I was just wondering if the mod would also break the car mode detection?
I can't find anything on how car mode is detected!
I tried lordlockan's IceColdSandwich ROM, and while on it, my DHD went through a charge cycle from <5% to 100% fully charged via USB plugged to a computer USB port. To my surprise, in the first 40%(or maybe 50%) charge time, the charging current remained between 800-900ma, and this was with an HTC original USB cable. Needless to say, the charge time also greatly reduced to a little over two hours--almost the same as charging via AC.
I suppose this is the kernel's USB Fast Charge feature, and it's my first time experiencing such USB Fast Charge. On a few GB ROMs I've used, USB charge always has a charge current < 400ma. I checked various threads which have discussions on this topic, but I'm not sure what I experienced is normal. Hope someone in the know can answer my questions:
1. Does USB Fast Charge require specially mod cable, e.g. data-wires-shorted cable, or just any regular USB data cable can do with a kernel that supports this feature?
2. Someone told me that it's not safe to draw more than 500ma from a computer USB port, since USB 2.0 spec. mandates the safe charge current to be upper-bounded by 500ma. Even if larger charge current works, over time it could damage the computer USB port and even mother board. Is this true?
From what I read from various threads, the opinions are two-sided:
one view is like what I was told: do not overcharge with more than 500ma via USB 2.0 port.
But I also found many people with the opinion that it's OK to draw larger current from a computer's USB port, as long as the computer can provide it. Chad, who I believe is the original developer that came up with USB Fast Charge in the kernel, also said that it does no harm--the most one could lose is to still have slow USB charge if the computer USB port cannot provide more than 500ma charge current.
Which is true?
Thanks.
I guess it is intended for car chargers, but anyways take a look at this article: http://www.eetimes.com/design/power...B-battery-charging--it-s-harder-than-it-looks
seems like the USB PORT could offer up to 1.5A
I am not sure whether it is ClokaN or somebody else but they had mentioned that fast charging must not be used often until or unless necessity arises.
Hope this helps.
Unlikely to cause lasting harm, unlike cross posting on multiple threads.
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
Please use the Q&A Forum for questions &
Read the Forum Rules Ref Posting
Moving to Q&A
(Sorry for posting in the wrong thread.)
I'd like to summarize what clockan answered in another thread:
LorD ClockaN said:
I have a mod in kernel that no matter if you use car charger, usb cable or wall charger it charges every time like from stock wall charger.
the voltage and power is so little that it doesn't require any different cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lord clockan said:
hchao said:
so, it's safe and ok to draw larger current than 500ma from a computer's usb 2.0 port. I've read from a few threads that people were warning against drawing large current from computer's usb port, but it seems the opposite opinion had more supports. I for one consider it illogical in thinking that drawing larger-than-spec'ed current from a usb port is harmful. After all, if it is harmful to the computer (the current provider), the computer should already have some control which prohibits from transferring larger current in the first place. If the consumer of the current is able to draw larger current than spec'ed, it should be an indication that the computer is able to handle it safely.
Anyhow, i believe that should be the answer to my second question.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
usb 2.0 can provide 1a no problem, you can also disable fast charge by adding fast charge toggle in rom control
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
rakesh2002 said:
I guess it is intended for car chargers, but anyways take a look at this article: http://www.eetimes.com/design/power...B-battery-charging--it-s-harder-than-it-looks
seems like the USB PORT could offer up to 1.5A
I am not sure whether it is ClokaN or somebody else but they had mentioned that fast charging must not be used often until or unless necessity arises.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the pointer.
The 1.5A cited in that article is for the newly proposed " USB-IF Battery Charging Specification revision 1.2 (BC1.2)". I doubt there is any implementation on the market yet. However, my understanding is that pretty much most PCs and 3C devices (e.g. gaming consoles) shipped in the last few years can do USB charging at least up to 1A. (See also clockan's comment in my previous post.)
I remember once I triggered a Windows alarm popup warning me for abnormally high voltage in the USB when I used a screw driver to adjust a computer's USB port--perhaps I shorted some pins. Apparently Windows has built-in protection in monitoring USB port electricity. So, I beleieve now worrying about drawing a few hundred more mAs from a computer's USB port is unnecessary.
hchao said:
Thanks for the pointer.
The 1.5A cited in that article is for the newly proposed " USB-IF Battery Charging Specification revision 1.2 (BC1.2)". I doubt there is any implementation on the market yet. However, my understanding is that pretty much most PCs and 3C devices (e.g. gaming consoles) shipped in the last few years can do USB charging at least up to 1A. (See also clockan's comment in my previous post.)
I remember once I triggered a Windows alarm popup warning me for abnormally high voltage in the USB when I used a screw driver to adjust a computer's USB port--perhaps I shorted some pins. Apparently Windows has built-in protection in monitoring USB port electricity. So, I beleieve now worrying about drawing a few hundred more mAs from a computer's USB port is unnecessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i also remember when i lost my Sony Z5 orginal charger ,decided to make a usb charging cable for my phone. as i remember it was used to be charged up very faster than ever, drawing higher current of PC USB port rising up both phone and usb cable temperature
finally nothing bad happend till i lost the phone itself as well!
So I was charging my phone like usual. And I was slightly aware that there was a compatibility issue between QC 3.0 and Type-C.
HOWEVER, tonight at about 12amish GMT. I kept smelling a burning smell... Which I thought it was my cat. but then when I decided to charge my phone using my Lumia 950 XL charger. I discovered the port had been burnt, and the cape and phone where burning ****ing hot! I felt the type-c plug from the charge against my top-lip and I got burnt...
I'm writing this a bit panic-y as I want everyone to just know TO BE CAREFUL. I'm not sure what exactly caused this as I have looked after the phone as if its my baby. Always case and a screen protector. I have a feeling this is down to compatibility!?
Anyone with similar issues, suggestions or such?
{images}
https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4dEOhDELm2LCQO9qw
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4dCeGjVRobJ69E9VQ
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4dD-I6Fz_tNorEnRw
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4dBqVqPnnW6UgdktA
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4dAaR9KAmgBnUMaHw
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4c_KkbOCCaR4HbF3g
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4c-CX3xqnj2JjtoBA
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4c7inelDdbl20y7ug
Intraducinmista said:
So I was charging my phone like usual. And I was slightly aware that there was a compatibility issue between QC 3.0 and Type-C.
HOWEVER, tonight at about 12amish GMT. I kept smelling a burning smell... Which I thought it was my cat. but then when I decided to charge my phone using my Lumia 950 XL charger. I discovered the port had been burnt, and the cape and phone where burning ****ing hot! I felt the type-c plug from the charge against my top-lip and I got burnt...
I'm writing this a bit panic-y as I want everyone to just know TO BE CAREFUL. I'm not sure what exactly caused this as I have looked after the phone as if its my baby. Always case and a screen protector. I have a feeling this is down to compatibility!?
Anyone with similar issues, suggestions or such?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Lumia is c to c right? If so, yeah there were lots of reported issues where people used various c to c cables with a c brick (most were pixel or nexus chargers that I saw) that had the same issues you did. Think it ended up being that the 10 doesn't have the right safe checks in place to stop charging at 100%, and it just keeps trying to push 3 amps even when fully charged (could be wrong about that though)
guyverzero said:
The Lumia is c to c right? If so, yeah there were lots of reported issues where people used various c to c cables with a c brick (most were pixel or nexus chargers that I saw) that had the same issues you did. Think it ended up being that the 10 doesn't have the right safe checks in place to stop charging at 100%, and it just keeps trying to push 3 amps even when fully charged (could be wrong about that though)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mmm.. the phone was charging from almost nothing... I think I was charging it from about 20% using a zuk z1 cable plugged into my computer that was connected to a usb 3.0 port. the cable is 3.0 standard and the phone is 3.1 if I rememeber
ive just added images into the original post
guyverzero said:
Think it ended up being that the 10 doesn't have the right safe checks in place to stop charging at 100%, and it just keeps trying to push 3 amps even when fully charged (could be wrong about that though)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't Push Amps, you pull em, you Push Voltage.
The phone decides how much amps it wants to draw.
More likely missing cables inside the cable or bad quality Connector.
Was it an original Microsoft Cable from the 950 or bought afterwards?
P.S can't see the pictures. Just my bad Internet?
Haldi4803 said:
You don't Push Amps, you pull em, you Push Voltage.
The phone decides how much amps it wants to draw.
More likely missing cables inside the cable or bad quality Connector.
Was it an original Microsoft Cable from the 950 or bought afterwards?
P.S can't see the pictures. Just my bad Internet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I cant see the photos either
_-..zKiLLA..-_ said:
I cant see the photos either
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
doesn't appear the image tag correctly grabbed the microsoft drive images so i deleted the image format. Downside is you can't see them inline.. but the upside is you can click them to see em..
Read here...
..and follow the links at the bottom.
UPDATE: ok so, I've taken it back to the place I brought it from and they sent it to the repair centre (carphone warehouse). They've turned round and said tis water damage but I disagree as I do not like to keep my gadgets in places that are potential for issues. Will be taking it up with the shop. failing that, Trading Standards.
CAN SOMEONE HELP ME; does water corrosion look similar to that of corrosion caused by excessive current or connection shorting?
I had a ps4 controller do the same thing. it was cause by the cable was not 100% plugged into the controller port. it was still able to charge a bit but after awhile I noticed a burning smell... same results
Intraducinmista said:
UPDATE: ok so, I've taken it back to the place I brought it from and they sent it to the repair centre (carphone warehouse). They've turned round and said tis water damage but I disagree as I do not like to keep my gadgets in places that are potential for issues. Will be taking it up with the shop. failing that, Trading Standards.
CAN SOMEONE HELP ME; does water corrosion look similar to that of corrosion caused by excessive current or connection shorting?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would be looking for blue oxidation if it was water damage.
Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
dottat said:
I would be looking for blue oxidation if it was water damage.
Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By any chance green oxidation would indicate electrical corrosion from shorting of the contacts?
QC3.0 cannot exists as TypeC output, also the standard is not supported by USB consortium which developed USB Power Delivery instead.
Benson Leung warned people, that type c to type c charging should be avoided.
Even HTC10 does not follow the official usb specification and uses QC so best any user can do, i using legacy USB type A to type c cable and using charger with USB A output port. Also all cables must have 56k ohm resistor, cheap one come with 11k resistor and could damage power charger or the device. Check Bensons google+, he even linked to Tronsmart chargers which were out of specification and should be avoided.
cavist said:
QC3.0 cannot exists as TypeC output, also the standard is not supported by USB consortium which developed USB Power Delivery instead.
Benson Leung warned people, that type c to type c charging should be avoided.
Even HTC10 does not follow the official usb specification and uses QC so best any user can do, i using legacy USB type A to type c cable and using charger with USB A output port. Also all cables must have 56k ohm resistor, cheap one come with 11k resistor and could damage power charger or the device. Check Bensons google+, he even linked to Tronsmart chargers which were out of specification and should be avoided.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeh, I became aware of this when the QC3.0 was released. Though, my assumption was because I'm connecting between usb type-c to the phones type-c it wouldn't charge off the QC3.0 standard.
Initially, I was using the Nokia type-C charger which came with my Lumia 950XL. It charges at 15 Watts (5V, 3.0A). I had used this the majority of the time and hadn't gone wrong. Sometimes I'd use a portable battery charge which charged at a generic 5V 2A AND a Samsung nexus 10 charger which was a usb female and charged a the same rate.
I would've assumed (also judging from the new releases by QUALCOMM) that QC3.0 phones would either charge of USB standard OR take advantage of QC. I've never used type-c to type-c charging only because I never had the capability. There is a slider in the settings menu to use USB3.1 standard but again, never used it. always done this through a usb3.0 to usb type-c cable.
HTC10 charges normaly from any standard legacy USB port like your old HTC M7 usb wall charger or notebook usb ports. QC3.0 uses data lines in usb cable to provide power and this method is not approved by the USB consortium, thats why you can not also communicate with your phone in QC3.0 mode, because there is no free lines for data left. You can either fast charge, or switch to standard usb mode and transfer files without QC3.0.
USB TypeC standard forbids strictly manouvers over the cable like QC does. For this, the newest Chromebooks and Nexus uses approved USB Power Delivery.
The "problem" was, that Qualcomm is also part of research and development of USB Power Delivery but yet, they in the same time were developing QC3.0. Was it for pure marketing purpose or to fill the gap between USB PD going live, we can not tell.
The only way now to end this confusion is to wait for Qualcomm to switch for USB PD as a successor of QC3.0 because there is really no point of two competing charging standards which one is spec certified and the other is not.
cavist said:
HTC10 charges normaly from any standard legacy USB port like your old HTC M7 usb wall charger or notebook usb ports. QC3.0 uses data lines in usb cable to provide power and this method is not approved by the USB consortium, thats why you can not also communicate with your phone in QC3.0 mode, because there is no free lines for data left. You can either fast charge, or switch to standard usb mode and transfer files without QC3.0.
USB TypeC standard forbids strictly manouvers over the cable like QC does. For this, the newest Chromebooks and Nexus uses approved USB Power Delivery.
The "problem" was, that Qualcomm is also part of research and development of USB Power Delivery but yet, they in the same time were developing QC3.0. Was it for pure marketing purpose or to fill the gap between USB PD going live, we can not tell.
The only way now to end this confusion is to wait for Qualcomm to switch for USB PD as a successor of QC3.0 because there is really no point of two competing charging standards which one is spec certified and the other is not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so would this mean I will need to set my phone to file transfer mode if I want to charge from USB?
Also, for reference, is there a way to disable quick charge 3.0 (which I assume may be present in the build.prop file OR am I thinking more noob like)
Intraducinmista said:
so would this mean I will need to set my phone to file transfer mode if I want to charge from USB?
Also, for reference, is there a way to disable quick charge 3.0 (which I assume may be present in the build.prop file OR am I thinking more noob like)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, you must understand how usb and QC3 works. I will try to explain it as simply as I can.
Legacy USB have 4 cables inside, two for data transfer, one for curent and one for ground.
If you plug your phone to the usb in notebook, you can charge and transfer data in the same time.
What QC3.0 does, it is using the data paths for providing additional power, so when you plug it to your QC3 charger, it uses all the data routes/cables in USB only for additional and faster charging, so the data connection is blocked in this mode.
Ok, just came back from Carphone Warehouse. It looks as if the phone has corroded more during the time I've given it to them and the time its taken for it too come back.
The colour of the corrosion was of a greenish hue.
cavist said:
No, you must understand how usb and QC3 works. I will try to explain it as simply as I can.
Legacy USB have 4 cables inside, two for data transfer, one for curent and one for ground.
If you plug your phone to the usb in notebook, you can charge and transfer data in the same time.
What QC3.0 does, it is using the data paths for providing additional power, so when you plug it to your QC3 charger, it uses all the data routes/cables in USB only for additional and faster charging, so the data connection is blocked in this mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm awar eof this, but my question is if it can be disabled on the phone or not.
Never heard of disabling QC. I do not think that HTC will provide any tool to disable built in chipset feature.
M:y phone is sitting in the official samsung wireless fast charger (the stand up one for the Note10+) I am also using the official cord and charger. With the phone fast charging in the holder I plug my chord Hugo 2 (an audio DAC, it doesn't charge or draw power at all) into the usb-c port and the phone reduces the charging speed from fast wireless to normal wireless. This dramatically slows the charging rate. The problem is entirely software based so I believe there is some sort of package I can disable to prevent this. The phone believes I am using the charging port to charge it or some other device but I am actually only using it to send digital data to the DAC. I have tried changing the settings for USB devices in developer options (transferring files, etc) but no luck. Thank you.
I need a fix too. Anything yet?
maybe it is just like that because it thinks it will overheat... on the lg g4 it only charged faster when it was not picked up or moved and i think screen off. well the screen was off when i used the watt meter
ike__1985 said:
M:y phone is sitting in the official samsung wireless fast charger (the stand up one for the Note10+) I am also using the official cord and charger. With the phone fast charging in the holder I plug my chord Hugo 2 (an audio DAC, it doesn't charge or draw power at all) into the usb-c port and the phone reduces the charging speed from fast wireless to normal wireless. This dramatically slows the charging rate. The problem is entirely software based so I believe there is some sort of package I can disable to prevent this. The phone believes I am using the charging port to charge it or some other device but I am actually only using it to send digital data to the DAC. I have tried changing the settings for USB devices in developer options (transferring files, etc) but no luck. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I spent sometime looking and I have not seen nor encountered any package you can disable to do what you want to do. Charging functions like that are gonna be android system files, and things like .dll, .sys, .cfg and etc. This excludes any form of hardware components that monitor, limit, protect and control charging.
To be honest circumventing the charging functionality on the phone is a potential recipe for disaster.. it's not fast charging for a reason. It could very well be a safety precaution to prevent damage or overheating.
When I read up on the device the DAC might be trying to draw power from the phone via the USB connection. I get the same thing when I plugin a USB-C to HDMI adapter into my phone, and the adapter is obviously drawing power. Even though one would figure it shouldn't be since it's just a little ol' adapter something, it obviously is because it does get a little warm to the touch. So I wouldn't discount the notion that the DAC is drawing power in some fashion, because the phone isn't throwing that charging message for no reason.
Try making sure the DAC is in desktop mode (or equivalent) when you use it, so the device is drawing from it's internal battery. You should contact the company that made the device and ask them for suggestions/ideas. It maybe as simple as getting a specific cable, a compatibility issue with the DAC or what you do when you plug the DAC into the phone. It may just very well be that there is no solution and this is how it will work.
scottusa2008 said:
I
spent sometime looking and I have not seen nor encountered any package you can disable to do what you want to do. Charging functions like that are gonna be android system files, and things like .dll, .sys, .cfg and etc. This excludes any form of hardware components that monitor, limit, protect and control charging.
To be honest circumventing the charging functionality on the phone is a potential recipe for disaster.. it's not fast charging for a reason. It could very well be a safety precaution to prevent damage or overheating.
When I read up on the device the DAC might be trying to draw power from the phone via the USB connection. I get the same thing when I plugin a USB-C to HDMI adapter into my phone, and the adapter is obviously drawing power. Even though one would figure it shouldn't be since it's just a little ol' adapter something, it obviously is because it does get a little warm to the touch. So I wouldn't discount the notion that the DAC is drawing power in some fashion, because the phone isn't throwing that charging message for no reason.
Try making sure the DAC is in desktop mode (or equivalent) when you use it, so the device is drawing from it's internal battery. You should contact the company that made the device and ask them for suggestions/ideas. It maybe as simple as getting a specific cable, a compatibility issue with the DAC or what you do when you plug the DAC into the phone. It may just very well be that there is no solution and this is how it will work
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Comprehensive and concise in your hypothesis. Thank you. Most likely something they took into account with any adapters. Going to do some other testing too.:highfive: