usb port repair/replacemet - Kindle Fire Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

One of my fires won't charge reliably. I am hoping to repair/resolder connections.
I found used motherboard for fifty dollars. Used board will be last resort.
Any pics or previous experience from anyone that might help.
Thanks

Before you do anything drastic, what ROM are you running?

soupmagnet said:
Before you do anything drastic, what ROM are you running?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cm ROM. Teenager sleeping with kindle plugged in. Has had charging issue for a while. I have four kindle fires, two cm7, one ICS, and one jellybean.

There was a father who had done some soder work in the usb area for his kid he was worried at one point he had made it to hot but it turned out to be ok I will search through some threads to see if I can locate his maybe it will have some insight for you...

TheKid2 said:
Cm ROM. Teenager sleeping with kindle plugged in. Has had charging issue for a while. I have four kindle fires, two cm7, one ICS, and one jellybean.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not quite sure what that means exactly.
The reason I'm wondering about which ROM the affected Kindle is running, is because the ICS and JB ROMs have had a similar charging issues from the very beginning. The latest version of the kernel was released last night with the charging issue fixed. You may want to upgrade before attempting anything like soldering on your USB connection.

Hopefully it is just the known ROM issue, which has now been fixed. I had difficulty charging my KF because the USB connector was coming loose from the mb. I had a hardware engineer attempt to re-solder it but he was not successful. The connector is very small and it is very difficult to re-solder. If it is a loose USB port, and you can get it back to stock, Amazon will replace it under warranty.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda premium

Go with the used board, but be sure that they match in serial number. The earliest releases of Kindle Fires used a different motherboad connector for the LCD, and are incompatible (found out the hard way). A good case opening kit helps keep from damaging the unit.

Motherboards are very hard to come by...

In that case, buy a unit with a broken screen on ebay. Make sure it's one that still powers on and charges (many will show the lcd working below the screen. More expensive, but you can keep the battery as a spare as well.

soupmagnet said:
I'm not quite sure what that means exactly.
The reason I'm wondering about which ROM the affected Kindle is running, is because the ICS and JB ROMs have had a similar charging issues from the very beginning. The latest version of the kernel was released last night with the charging issue fixed. You may want to upgrade before attempting anything like soldering on your USB connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Running CM7, not sure of exact rom its been on there so long.

mthous01 said:
In that case, buy a unit with a broken screen on ebay. Make sure it's one that still powers on and charges (many will show the lcd working below the screen. More expensive, but you can keep the battery as a spare as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure how to identify board revision on ebay?

Ask for revision number and/or serial number and make sure that they match. Even better, get a picture of the board so that you can see they are the same.

mthous01 said:
Ask for revision number and/or serial number and make sure that they match. Even better, get a picture of the board so that you can see they are the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it is just a kindle with a broken screen someone is trying to sell, they probably arn't willing to crack it open just to check the motherboard.

Don't buy without proper info. Buyer protection only works so well.
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

Thanks for all the replies.
It looks like if I had a nice hot air rework station I could repair it in just a few minutes. Right now just prying on charger connection to continue charging. I may just wait for it to die completely, afraid I will kill it with soldering iron.

if you make a TWRP backup and copy it to the computer, if/when you replace the motherboard (getting cheaper as the new Kindle Fire rolls out), you can copy this bac kup folder back to the new motherboard and restore. I have done this when I get a solid working JB ROM on a system, just so that I can go back to fresh quickly and easily. Also, suggest that you use Kindle Nullifire on any board bought from anywhere, as it will zero-write the internal sd card, and avoid issues more issues than you would imagine. It's worth the extra 10-15 minutes to do so.

Of Kindles and Chargers and Broken USB Ports
Kindle Battery:
Most of the inside of your Kindle is a huge battery. It requires a ‘hefty’ charger to charge it and keep it healthy.
Chargers:
While the Kindle Fire calls out for a 1.8 amp charger, I would recommend a 2.0 amp charger for the Kindle. iPad 2 chargers, 2.0 or 2.1 amp rating, with USB ports can be used with appropriate USB micro charging cables to work really well.
Many chargers are over rated and many have cheap thin wire that cannot deliver enough amperage to the kindle port and it will not "shift" into charge mode.
A Kindle will pull about 700mA from a charger, and the charger rating printing is mostly marketing and most of them do not deliver that wattage on a constant sustained level.
Charger/USB charger cable thickness:
If using USB to USB micro data cable make sure it is a thick wire cable that can push out the current from charger to kindle. Thin charger cables are conduits of squished electron flow and will not “shift into gear” the Kindle into charging mode.
Helpful hint:
If charger is not working, power down kindle and try:
Unplug charger.
Power off kindle
Plug in charger
Kindle should wake up in "charge mode"
Having fixed many Kindles lately, I am seeing charger issues, and plugging and replugging the USB cable in cause 50% of broken USB port problems.
Hope these hints will help.
A. Zubair, EE

Related

[Q] USB Wall-Socket from ThinkGeek. Will it work with my GNex?

I apologize if this is a dumb question, but I'm not exactly an electrical engineer. I was looking at buying one of these for my room: http://www.thinkgeek.com/gadgets/travelpower/e81a/ and it says it outputs at 2 amps. i notice the stock Samsung charger is 1 amp. Will I be doing any harm to my phone by using the wall outlet vs. my stock charger? Or will it detect it as a USB charger, charging it at a slower rate?
Ya it'll be fine, it says UP TO 2.1amps.
Also it says it charges all mobile phones that accept USB power.
yes it will work. I have a few of these installed in my house. Your device will only pull the amount of amps that it needs. The voltage is what you have to look out for...
it will work, but it is not up to the 2011 nec code as it doesn't have tamper resistant shutters, I would recommend this instead.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7740W-K-Combination/dp/B007NC5GI4
It works the same, is up to the latest electrical code, is cheaper and will work with a standard wallplate.
Thanks for the input everyone, I think i'm gonna spring for one (may not be the Thinkgeek one though, as the one cade80 posted and a few other's I've found are cheaper) at some point, just to cut some clutter from my bedroom a bit.
cade80 said:
it will work, but it is not up to the 2011 nec code as it doesn't have tamper resistant shutters, I would recommend this instead.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7740W-K-Combination/dp/B007NC5GI4
It works the same, is up to the latest electrical code, is cheaper and will work with a standard wallplate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Although you lose 1 standard plug, the big plus is being able to use normal faceplates with it.
cade80 said:
it will work, but it is not up to the 2011 nec code as it doesn't have tamper resistant shutters, I would recommend this instead.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7740W-K-Combination/dp/B007NC5GI4
It works the same, is up to the latest electrical code, is cheaper and will work with a standard wallplate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Be aware, this Cooper one is only 0.7A ... it won't charge an iPad 3 and is slower to charge then the OEM Samsung charger.
thepawn said:
Be aware, this Cooper one is only 0.7A ... it won't charge an iPad 3 and is slower to charge then the OEM Samsung charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good eye on that, depending on your needs this may outweigh the being up to current electrical codes.
most third party charger will not charge you samsung smartphone at full power.
to charge at full power you must shortcut middle pins.
"will not charge" - not correct, your phone reduce it
So I went ahead and decided to not spring for the ThinkGeek Charger, and instead bought one of these: http://www.lowes.com/pd_369050-6337...&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=usb&facetInfo= and just put it in a standard plug to test it to make sure it worked. Well I plugged it in and the first thing I noticed was the GNex was taking a while to recognize the plug. Finally it started Charging (USB Though) which was OK with me. Well last night I plugged it in via my Samsung Charger to a standard power strip because I hadn't gotten around to installing the RCA plate yet. Well I woke up this morning and it was on like 50% power and wasn't charging. So I was like WTF. So I brought it into work with me this morning, and now when I plug the stock Samsung charger with the stock samsung cable into the wall, no charge. I tried plugging it in to my computer, and it eventually makes connection with the computer (it's not instant like It used to be) and Android File Transfer starts, but says it can't connect to the phone. Then it charges for a few minutes, up about 1%, then stops charging. So my question is, when I plugged in my phone to the RCA charger last night, did it fry my phone? Or is my charge cable maybe bad now? I haven't tried another cable yet (everyone at work is an iPhone user and doesn't have a Micro-USB cable lying around) but I'm going to try that and hope it works. If it's not the cable, is it possible that the phone itself got damaged? If so, how could I go about removing root and wiping it to take it into the VZW store for replacement without USB to the computer?
Another new development. I plugged it into a Windows Box (I was using a Mac) and when I plug it in, it says "This Device can perform faster" and talks about plugging it into a USB 2.0 port. I'm using a 2009 Macbook Pro, it has USB 2.0. It won't mount the disk either. So i'm really beginning to wonder if the USB cable is fried.
Turns out it was a bad USB cable. Went to Best Buy and bought a generic cable and it now charges and hooks up to the computer just fine. My ADB doesn't seem to be working though for some reason, on Mac or PC...
Ok, everything is working now. ADB wasn't working because of a conflict with EasyTether on my Mac. Thanks everyone for the suggestions but I've decided to just stick with what I have now (power strip) and not deal with it.
cade80 said:
Good eye on that, depending on your needs this may outweigh the being up to current electrical codes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
some electrical codes are good some are only updated so a manufacturer can score some more money from sales
Like when the addition of ark fault breakers
zacelliott said:
Ok, everything is working now. ADB wasn't working because of a conflict with EasyTether on my Mac. Thanks everyone for the suggestions but I've decided to just stick with what I have now (power strip) and not deal with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May I recommend you return the Best Buy cable and go to monoprice.com?
I bought five cables from them that are 6 foot long. They work terrific and are higher quality looking than what you get from Best Buy.

KF won't charge

i'm using Gederom and i have FFF 1.4a, but the kindle's battery died and it is completely unresponsive even when plugged into the stock charger and to the PC. Last night i was also having some trouble getting it to charge, can anyone offer any suggestions??? the micro USB port also looks a little pushed inward in the kindle, although this could just be paranoia
mono feo0 said:
i'm using Gederom and i have FFF 1.4a, but the kindle's battery died and it is completely unresponsive even when plugged into the stock charger and to the PC. Last night i was also having some trouble getting it to charge, can anyone offer any suggestions??? the micro USB port also looks a little pushed inward in the kindle, although this could just be paranoia
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Get this, once a KF dies completely, it will not have enough power to charge!? Crazy huh? No worries, first, your PC won't charge it. You need the stock wall charger. Took mine 1 Week to come back on! Serious......you have another option, I can't remember the post, but someone here makes a custom USB cable that others will tell you to get. But like I said, wall charger, and let it sit or buy that cable. Either way its not bricked.
Sent from My Beast™
StarkCity said:
Get this, once a KF dies completely, it will not have enough power to charge!? Crazy huh? No worries, first, your PC won't charge it. You need the stock wall charger. Took mine 1 Week to come back on! Serious......you have another option, I can't remember the post, but someone here makes a custom USB cable that others will tell you to get. But like I said, wall charger, and let it sit or buy that cable. Either way its not bricked.
Sent from My Beast™
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the reply, but i think FFF 1.4A fixed that issue no? I think it might be an issue with my USB port, but i want to confirm.
mono feo0 said:
thanks for the reply, but i think FFF 1.4A fixed that issue no? I think it might be an issue with my USB port, but i want to confirm.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure, this happened to me stock, and on a aokp build. I've never been on this build so I don't believe its related. The guy who schooled me never even asked what build I was on. I was told to charge from ac, and if it didn't work to order the cable. In my case, it came back on in a few days.
Sent from My Beast™
With FFF 1.4a you should be able to charge using a regular USB cord and your computer. Just turn your KF off, plug it in and then turn it on. FFF 1.4a should detect the low battery and go into charging mode. Leave it alone for several hours and it should show a charge. If it doesn't then you may be right about the bad USB connector. I had to return one because it had a bad connector. It seems to be a common problem. I was able to get mine to charge a little bit by pressing the charger cable connector up and holding it there, but that was only a very temporary fix.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda premium
JimCo06 said:
With FFF 1.4a you should be able to charge using a regular USB cord and your computer. Just turn your KF off, plug it in and then turn it on. FFF 1.4a should detect the low battery and go into charging mode. Leave it alone for several hours and it should show a charge. If it doesn't then you may be right about the bad USB connector. I had to return one because it had a bad connector. It seems to be a common problem. I was able to get mine to charge a little bit by pressing the charger cable connector up and holding it there, but that was only a very temporary fix.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
after messing around with the charger and getting it to charge in an awkward position, it came on. turns out it is a bad USB connector, which is a big problem for me, as i live outside of the US. is there any way i can fix it?
If you are really, really good at micro soldering you might be able to reattach the connector (if it is just loose) or replace it if you can find an appropriate replacement. I was not able to find a connector that looked the same, maybe you will have better luck. The only other choice is to replace the motherboard but that may be as expensive as just getting a new Fire.
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using xda premium
thanks for the help but I have no experience at all in hardware modding.. i think i'll have to get it shipped to amazon for a replacement.

[HOW-TO] Charge a dead KF battery. LAST RESORT

This worked temporarily, but by the time we got fff and twrp on my device, the battery went completely dead. It would not power the device, and a replacement had to be bought. I do not recommend using this guide unless you have absolutely no other choice.
PLEASE READ EVERYTHING.
This a guide for how to charge your Kindle Fire's battery if you are stuck with the 5 second bootloop and you have tried everything else This is a last resort, and it works by charging the battery DIRECTLY. I recommend reading all instructions before starting.
"tried everything else" meaning:
- Trying to charge for hours using stock Kindle Fire Charger.
- Same with a non-stock 5v charger with at least 1.8 amps (Not counting ipod/ipad chargers, as I've heard they have compatibility issues with the KF. If you have nothing else, try it anyways.)
- Any other method you may have read about.
This WILL void your warranty (which happened a long time ago for most of you, anyways), and I am not to be held responsible for anything that may go wrong when following the instructions posted here. It worked for me! But it is dangerous and I cannot guarantee that this method will work for you.
PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK
Now that you understand the risks involved, let's get started.
1. Remove the back from your Kindle. For assistance:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ6xxveRJSw
Other various guides are available online. Google search is your friend.
2. Locate the large battery connector (it should have three red wires, a yellow, a blue, a white, and four blacks) and pull it from where it plugs into the board. See 4:35 in the video posted in step one.
3. Now, get the 5v, 1.8+A charger*** you tried (and failed) to charge your kindle with. NOTE: I used a 2.0A charger, which worked fine for me. Normally, higher rates than what's recommended shouldn't be an issue, but I'm not sure that this is still the case as we're charging the battery directly. Cut off the end that plugs into the device (the micro USB end. I recommend leaving enough length on the end so that you may reattach it to the charger cable if you need to). Cut open the case of the cable, being careful to not cut through the inner cables/wires. You need these! There should be one black and one red; these are the only two you need. Strip them. Now, separate one single strand from the rest for both black and red. tape off the remainders using electrical tape. You may also just cut off the extra strands, but you may regret doing so if the flimsy single strand you're using breaks and you have to start all over again with the wire.
4. You should have a 5V, 1.8+A charger with the end cut off, the black and red wires stripped, and only one strand of each exposed. NOW. Make sure your charger is not yet plugged into the wall. Plug the single black strand into the far left black port on the battery's connector (this is when viewing the kindle from the back, right side up. As shown in the the aforementioned video) and the single red strand into the far left red port on the battery connector. There are three reds; make sure you put this in the right one. When the cables are plugged in as securely as they can be and the two strands (black and red) are not touching. Double check this. Now, plug in the charger and wait. I left mine for about thirty minutes, reconnected the battery, and... POWER! Make sure to quickly connect a charger to the kindle fire via the standard charging port to let it finish charging; this just jump starts your battery. If you do not have another cable to charge your kindle with, strip the severed end of the charger and reconnect it where you initially cut it off. Make sure to cover the exposed ends with electrical tape. I do not know if it is safe to leave the device charging directly for an extended period of time. The thirty minutes was enough for me and I did not want to experiment any further than necessary.
I hope you found this helpful! Be careful and may your kindle live on!
*** When charging the battery directly, I'm assuming a 5v charger with less than 1.8A would also work, but I have not tested this. I assume you would just have to leave it charging directly a little longer to get it to a point where the battery can power the device on its own.
I`m glad you wrote this up many here make this epic fail with thier kindles and dont have the correct bootloader to rescue them from this situation. At the very least its better than nothing and then they can flash fff 1.4a and hopefully not deal with this issue again so thanks
I'm always thankful to find guides like this, so I'm glad to have an opportunity to give back and help others out a little bit.
Now that I have power, however, I'm having issues with the drivers. Oh, boy. I've tried re installing variations a million times, two different PC's, even tried the firekit multiple times (I was having this same issue before the battery died). Still stuck at fastboot... I don't think there's a single other thread I could read on here. Not sure what to do at this point, as the Kindle only shows up in the device manger under hidden devices (Unknown device!). I've read that letting the battery drain resets it so it'll show up as Kindle and you can try the drivers again, but I'm not letting my battery get that low again. Ugh, this is a pain. Rooting my kindle went fine, but of course, when I offer to help a friend with his, all hell breaks loose. And I'm going to have to buy him a new one if I can't fix it (I'm trying to get him to just take mine, but there is a single crack of significant size on the screen.
...Sorry, got really off topic for this thread.
This should be stickied. So many people making threads about the same thing. Lol.
Thank you and help?
First of all, thank you for your guide!!
I actually did this with my kindle fire HD because it was not charging at all despite everything I tried. Unfortunately for me, even the jump start did not allow my regular charger to charge the battery; however, I kept the leads on the battery for it to charge ~60% and it works just great. And if I charge it through that method again, it charges, and keeps charge perfectly...just refuses to charge via its own usb port.
This is where I need help. I need to figure out whether it really is a bad battery not charging or it's the machine's fault. I was wondering if someone can kindly measure the battery values with a volt meter? Now, I'm not asking anyone to void their warranty, but if you had the back case open for some reason, it would be wonderful to get some values - specifically the cable next to the 4 black ones (white on my KFHD 7)
Mine measured with battery into port & charger in: black (or gnd screw) - white: 2.20 v
with battery into port & charger out: black (or gnd screw) - white: 1.70 v
without battery into port & charger in: black (or gnd screw) - white: 4.20 v This suggests that the kindle should charge. But the fact that battery charges using the direct method suggests the battery is still good? This is where I need help . Thanks everyone!
please help..
lawjack said:
First of all, thank you for your guide!!
I actually did this with my kindle fire HD because it was not charging at all despite everything I tried. Unfortunately for me, even the jump start did not allow my regular charger to charge the battery; however, I kept the leads on the battery for it to charge ~60% and it works just great. And if I charge it through that method again, it charges, and keeps charge perfectly...just refuses to charge via its own usb port.
This is where I need help. I need to figure out whether it really is a bad battery not charging or it's the machine's fault. I was wondering if someone can kindly measure the battery values with a volt meter? Now, I'm not asking anyone to void their warranty, but if you had the back case open for some reason, it would be wonderful to get some values - specifically the cable next to the 4 black ones (white on my KFHD 7)
Mine measured with battery into port & charger in: black (or gnd screw) - white: 2.20 v
with battery into port & charger out: black (or gnd screw) - white: 1.70 v
without battery into port & charger in: black (or gnd screw) - white: 4.20 v This suggests that the kindle should charge. But the fact that battery charges using the direct method suggests the battery is still good? This is where I need help . Thanks everyone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm trying to do this with my HD Kindle, can you tell me, where you plug the one red wire is it the one closest to the yellow wire?, and is the black one , at the very last black wire at the end of the connector?
Please let me know, and thanks
Can you help me?
s2p2e said:
This worked temporarily, but by the time we got fff and twrp on my device, the battery went completely dead. It would not power the device, and a replacement had to be bought. I do not recommend using this guide unless you have absolutely no other choice.
PLEASE READ EVERYTHING.
This a guide for how to charge your Kindle Fire's battery if you are stuck with the 5 second bootloop and you have tried everything else This is a last resort, and it works by charging the battery DIRECTLY. I recommend reading all instructions before starting.
"tried everything else" meaning:
- Trying to charge for hours using stock Kindle Fire Charger.
- Same with a non-stock 5v charger with at least 1.8 amps (Not counting ipod/ipad chargers, as I've heard they have compatibility issues with the KF. If you have nothing else, try it anyways.)
- Any other method you may have read about.
This WILL void your warranty (which happened a long time ago for most of you, anyways), and I am not to be held responsible for anything that may go wrong when following the instructions posted here. It worked for me! But it is dangerous and I cannot guarantee that this method will work for you.
PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK
Now that you understand the risks involved, let's get started.
1. Remove the back from your Kindle. For assistance:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ6xxveRJSw
Other various guides are available online. Google search is your friend.
2. Locate the large battery connector (it should have three red wires, a yellow, a blue, a white, and four blacks) and pull it from where it plugs into the board. See 4:35 in the video posted in step one.
3. Now, get the 5v, 1.8+A charger*** you tried (and failed) to charge your kindle with. NOTE: I used a 2.0A charger, which worked fine for me. Normally, higher rates than what's recommended shouldn't be an issue, but I'm not sure that this is still the case as we're charging the battery directly. Cut off the end that plugs into the device (the micro USB end. I recommend leaving enough length on the end so that you may reattach it to the charger cable if you need to). Cut open the case of the cable, being careful to not cut through the inner cables/wires. You need these! There should be one black and one red; these are the only two you need. Strip them. Now, separate one single strand from the rest for both black and red. tape off the remainders using electrical tape. You may also just cut off the extra strands, but you may regret doing so if the flimsy single strand you're using breaks and you have to start all over again with the wire.
4. You should have a 5V, 1.8+A charger with the end cut off, the black and red wires stripped, and only one strand of each exposed. NOW. Make sure your charger is not yet plugged into the wall. Plug the single black strand into the far left black port on the battery's connector (this is when viewing the kindle from the back, right side up. As shown in the the aforementioned video) and the single red strand into the far left red port on the battery connector. There are three reds; make sure you put this in the right one. When the cables are plugged in as securely as they can be and the two strands (black and red) are not touching. Double check this. Now, plug in the charger and wait. I left mine for about thirty minutes, reconnected the battery, and... POWER! Make sure to quickly connect a charger to the kindle fire via the standard charging port to let it finish charging; this just jump starts your battery. If you do not have another cable to charge your kindle with, strip the severed end of the charger and reconnect it where you initially cut it off. Make sure to cover the exposed ends with electrical tape. I do not know if it is safe to leave the device charging directly for an extended period of time. The thirty minutes was enough for me and I did not want to experiment any further than necessary.
I hope you found this helpful! Be careful and may your kindle live on!
*** When charging the battery directly, I'm assuming a 5v charger with less than 1.8A would also work, but I have not tested this. I assume you would just have to leave it charging directly a little longer to get it to a point where the battery can power the device on its own.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm confuse where to place the strands...I'm trying to do this with my HD Kindle, can you tell me, where you plug the one red wire is it the one closest to the yellow wire?, and is the black one , at the very last black wire at the end of the connector?
Please let me know, and thanks
juna1103 said:
i'm confuse where to place the strands...I'm trying to do this with my HD Kindle, can you tell me, where you plug the one red wire is it the one closest to the yellow wire?, and is the black one , at the very last black wire at the end of the connector?
Please let me know, and thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All red's and Black's wires are same. They only put 4 black and 3 red wires to avoid short circuit.
You can choose one of them, just don't mix them.
Dead kf 5th gen
Is there a guide to charging battery this way for the Kindle fire 7" 5th generation?
There are 2 black, 2 white and 2 red wires for the battery connector. Which ones do I connect usb wires directly to?

[Q] Nexus 7 won’t charge

Hi I bought my Nexus 7 2013 used in February. It came with a 3rd party charger and usb cable. It’s worked fine since I got it and it use to charge fine. I would use different usb cables and they would all work. Within the past 2 weeks or so it has become increasingly hard to charge it. Also this started happening on the stock 4.4.4 rom with root enabled. Today I installed a custom chroma 5.1.1 rom just to see if anything changed but it’s the same result it doesn't charge. The chroma rom says it has the Franco Kernel. Not really sure what that means but the stock rom's kernal wasn't changed.
I've left it off and connected charging to the AC for hours and would turn it on and it would have not raised at all in battery charge percentage. When it’s on and I can better see the percentage in this battery app I have installed I noticed if I jiggle the cable at all it will disconnect and connect again. So it might not be making good contact. It does this with every usb cable I have tried on it. However when I don’t move it and have it charging in sleep mode it does see it as connected and it says charging in the battery monitor widget app when I wake it, but it doesn't charge stays at the same percentage or lowers.
There is sometimes where I get lucky and it starts charging but it’s becoming increasingly tougher to get that to happen. I haven’t had any luck since last night messing around with it with different cables. I've even tried charging it on my PC but it’s the same result. It says charging but it doesn't charge. However if I do connect it to the PC I can view the files on the Nexus 7 fine as long as I don’t move the Nexus 7 much. I've also tried the AC adapter on my phone to see if it works and it works fine and charges. I've tried a kindle fire 9w charger on the Nexus 7 and that doesn't charge either.
Any idea what’s the problem? If I buy the official AC charger do you think it would work? Am I better off buying a Qi wifi charger? I rather not waste money on the AC charger if there is a good possibility of it not working.
Hi,
I seem to have the same problem recently. I am running on 20150519 CM12.1 nightly right now but this problem started to occur about 2 weeks ago i.e. with an older nightly version running...
It really feels like the USB connector is broken. I have to move it the same way headphones jack has to be moved when it is broken. Have you tried more different chargers? I did but no solution.... Now I got it luckily charged to 90% and I am making a quick backup.
Do you have still warranty? I technically do but would need to get back to stock and lock the bootloader back.
I found threads on how to get back to stock via USB connection but is it possible to lock the bootloader without being able to connect USB to computer?
No unfortunately I have no warranty since its a used item. I tried the 3rd party cheap charger, amazon kindle fire charger and my phone charger on it they all don't charge. I think you can replace the USB board on it but that would require opening it up and doing the repairs yourself. I think I will just get a Qi charger and see if that works. I kinda don't want to spend money on that just to find out its my battery that doesn't work. I am not sure what the problem is since I can connect the nexus 7 to my PC and it will see it and its files fine. So I know the USB port works at least a little bit.
It's a sub-board (usb-sim-touch module) issue. I would reccommend using a wireless charger as a quick fix since the wireless charger module is located on the motherboard itself so you should be good.
I may have a few sub-boards for the 2013 lying around but i'm not sure if they're 100% okay - as in calibrated, tested and fully functional. Also, i'd need to know if yours has LTE or not.
I have a Nexus 7 2013 32gb wifi edition. Thanks for the info. I put in an order for one of those wireless chargers.
MobRookie said:
Hi, I seem to have the same problem recently.
I am running on 20150519 CM12.1 nightly right now but this problem started to occur about 2 weeks ago i.e. with an older nightly version running...
It really feels like the USB connector is broken. I have to move it the same way headphones jack has to be moved when it is broken. Have you tried more different chargers? I did but no solution.... Now I got it luckily charged to 90% and I am making a quick backup.
Do you have still warranty? I technically do but would need to get back to stock and lock the bootloader back.
I found threads on how to get back to stock via USB connection but is it possible to lock the bootloader without being able to connect USB to computer?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
eureca said:
I have a Nexus 7 2013 32gb wifi edition. Thanks for the info. I put in an order for one of those wireless chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
perhaps you did that already, but from experience i must say that in 9 out of 10 cases it's the cable and 8 out of 10 cables are mediocre as compared to how it could be. no why i say that ist because i tested something between 50 and 60 cables during the last 2 years because i had similar issues and bought a special ampere and voltmeter with with the correct usb ports to measure the flow, same device, same power source, thus as empiric as possible result most cables charged between 0.9 and 1.1 A while about 10% were half of that and only few charged at 1.5A while 3 charged at between 1.9 and 2.1A. understand me right, same device, same charger, sam place all same condition, in car, on motorbike, on wall plugs. only significant difference were the cables. so check those first before taking more costly path which then only remain workarounds.
BTW amongst the bad ones were many that came out of the box with the devices and from different oems but many samsung original cables.
what i did i painted the ends of each cable with red for bad, yellow for ok, green for good and the outstanding ones already had a color, it were the stock cables from the oneplus one which had the best charging rate. good luck

G4 Charge/USB port issues

I've had my G4 since almost launch day and within weeks the supplied USB cable stopped charging the phone. I thought it was a cable problem, but it worked fine with other devices.
I tried other cables with the G4 and these still charged it so I thought nothing more of it until charging degraded with every USB cable I own to where the phone would only charge 20-30% during an overnight charge and the phone would frequently not recognise it was plugged in at all. I contacted LG who did a repair under warranty and all was fine.
I've now had the repaired phone back for about 3 weeks and the same problems are starting up again and it's only a matter of time until I am forced to return again for a repair.
Is anyone else having similar problems? I thought I may have just had an unlucky manufacturing problem, and the LG reps confirmed that to repair my phone they basically replace all the internal circuit boards and components rather than just replacing the individual component that is faulty (in this case the USB/charging port)
Basic debugging includes asking stupid questions, so please forgive but still answer any of those
Are you using a different charger? If so, check if that one is within specifications and if you do send in for repair again, use a different charger.
Are you propping up the device at an odd/weird angle or in a dock of some sort with the cable attached?
(As they replaced the entire print, it's probably not this, just the USB-micro port bent or broken.)
You could double check the wall outlets being used, there might be some kind of electrical problem there.
Either using all kinds of fancy electical testing gadgets, or stick a USB light into the hub or charger, does it flicker?
When sending it back for repairs, did they check the stock charger as well?
Hopefully these questions help you find any logical or plausible cause.
FreezyExp said:
Basic debugging includes asking stupid questions, so please forgive but still answer any of those
Are you using a different charger? If so, check if that one is within specifications and if you do send in for repair again, use a different charger.
Are you propping up the device at an odd/weird angle or in a dock of some sort with the cable attached?
(As they replaced the entire print, it's probably not this, just the USB-micro port bent or broken.)
You could double check the wall outlets being used, there might be some kind of electrical problem there.
Either using all kinds of fancy electical testing gadgets, or stick a USB light into the hub or charger, does it flicker?
When sending it back for repairs, did they check the stock charger as well?
Hopefully these questions help you find any logical or plausible cause.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi FreezyExp,
1. I am using the standard charger that came with the phone, but this has not been repaired/replaced. I have tried other chargers too, but all the same issue.
2. No weird propping up or anything like that. If I hold my phone while it is plugged in it is constantly vibrating as the charger connects and disconnects, and if I place it on the desk to charge I have to ensure that I have at least 3-4" of cabe "on the desk" to give it enough support to make the connection.
3. Wall connection is fine and I have tried it with a range of outlets around the home, both with extension sockets used and plugged directly into the wall and there is no different. No flickering light when using a USB light either.
4. When I sent it back all they asked me to return was the main section of the handset - so no battery or rear cover, no cables or chargers etc
It does seem to be the same issue as last time, a USB connection becoming loose from the main motherboard, but it seems weird that I have had the same issue twice in the space of 4-5 months.
I've been having some sort of problem with my G4 usb port. If I plug it in to a computer, it will lose connection and get a connection again if I barely touch the end of the cord at the phone end. I've tried many different cords and different usb ports on my computer, but it still has problems.
I can't fast charge, either. When I plug it in to fast charge, it actually starts discharging even faster. I've had some extreme battery life problems, too. It drained from 100-36 the other night with everything disabled, and it's been doing that kind of thing a lot lately. I'm guessing that the charging port is what's messing up my battery life because it won't charge correctly.
Never dropped it or anything.
I got my G4 on January 24 and my USB port has also failed. I am getting a replacement from Verizon, but am concerned that a six month old phone has this issue.
I also own a G4 H815. A while ago the phone started not receiving any charge from the cable and I would have to prop it up from right under the cable's micro usb end. Thought it was because it was bent inside the port and not making connection with the cable so I had the port replaced. Now I'm experiencing the same problem and I think it might be the cable that's already gone kaput and is effing up the port itself. I took the phone to the same place to get the port replaced again and bought new cables (I lost both the original adapter and the cable, which were charging slow anyway. Now using a 2A Asus adapter which works great) and when I asked the guy at the repair shop, he says it's a chronic issue with G4 devices. I don't really understand how it would happen twice in just a few months even with a new charger port. What should I make of this? Did they replace my port with an already faulty one, cahrged me full price and now trying to sell this bogus or am I really doomed with this phone?

Categories

Resources