Develop Bugs

USB not powerful enough to charge?

Anyone else having this problem. When I have my TMOUS TP2 hooked up to USB I keep getting told it's not getting enough power to charge.

Interesting. Is the USB plugged into a USB hub or straight into a computer? I can charge mine via USB when its straight into the computer. I'll try with hub a second to see if there is a difference.
Edit-
No, I cant. When plugged into a 4-port USB hub, I also cannot charge. I'm using some generic nonsense hub, dunno if a higher quality one (or one that also plugs into the wall for juice) might make a difference

Yes!
Many laptops are not powerful enough to charge the TP2. Also many hubs will divide the power between the ports.
A standard USB port will give you about 1A and the above mentioned gives you typically less than 1/2A.
Putting TP2 in standby will help if on a weak port, but that makes no sense, cause then you can use the charger.

It's directly in to my PC.. weird.

I got the "not enough power" USB warning when plugged into my laptop...but not right away -- it had been plugged in for 30-60 minutes or so.
I have not received that warning when plugged into the USB port of a full-power-desktop PC, even when plugged in for hours.
I try to remember to bring the ac adapter that came with my TP2 when I'm going to be away from home for a while so I don't have to depend on USB-power from a computer.

I charged off a 0.5A power source (the most you'll get out of a standard USB port), but the device was turned off. Took about 3.5 hours to fully charge it.
Did you have anything like wifi, gps, etc turned on at the time?

how much power is left on the phone? IIRC, if its too low, your phone will not charge through USB & you need the AC adapter.

There are "powered" and "unpowered" USB ports. The "unpowered" ones just basically carry enough current to carry signals, but not actually power a device. The "powered" ones carry enough current to charge a device.
Many laptops are "unpowered" ports, although I think that trend is changing. Most desktops I would assume are "powered".
I personally only power my phone on one of two official chargers I have, although if I'm in the car I'll use a third party adaptor there.
I don't know if the TP2 is any different than the Tilt in regards to charging, but I'd assume very similar.... Perhaps I'll have the TP2 soon, I've finally gotten ATT to let me have an early upgrade but haven't found the actual phone yet.

I have a 5v 1A car charger. When in the car if I am using Pocket Player, and my GPS program at the same time I will get the message that:
"there is not enough current to properly charge the device. Please should shut down unneeded programs." or something like that...
And sure enough, my phone will die if left like this. It won't charge, even though it shows that it is... curious.
Could it be the cable is not allowing enough current? I am using an older cable in the car, as I have my TP2 supplied cable on my computer....I am going to try swapping these 2 cables tomorrow and see what happens.

I've had my Sprint TP2 for 12 days now and experienced this problem once. I was plugged directly to my PC via the USB port. I believe my battery was at about 30% so I disconnected it and used the travel charger for awhile and plugged it back into the PC USB port. So far that's the only time it's happened.

Might be the cable!
cameraddict said:
Could it be the cable is not allowing enough current? I am using an older cable in the car, as I have my TP2 supplied cable on my computer....I am going to try swapping these 2 cables tomorrow and see what happens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
I had exactly the same problem and found out it WAS the USB cable - the one used couldn't offer more than 300mA to the phone, even if connected to orriginal HTC AC adapter. After changing the cable, the 1A car charger gives the same mA as the AC adapter (checked with nuePower - http://www.nuerom.com/BlogEngine/page/nuePowernueBattery.aspx)
Radu

nradu:
Thanks for the info.. I haven't driven anywhere since I posted that! I will be in the next day or so... glad to know the answer is simple.
I too, just downloaded the NuePower program. Will be installing this as well. Did you by chance have the chainfire 1% battery cab installed? If so, did you unistall it first? Wondering if there will be a conflict between the 2.

cameraddict said:
Did you by chance have the chainfire 1% battery cab installed? If so, did you unistall it first? Wondering if there will be a conflict between the 2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Yes, I have chainfire's cab, I didn't uninstall it before installing NuePower (btw, I have tried once to uninstall it and after a soft reset, the 1% info was still there). the only bug I saw was when pressing the OK button in NuePower - sometimes phone hungs or runs very very slowly. Best is to use it only to test the cables and uninstall it. and don't press OK button, just minimize it with End Key or do a soft reset if handy.

Mine does the same thing lol
I get the same thing, i think they should make these devices use even more power.

Don't know if will help, but last night I was in my car using Live Search for GPS purposes. The battery was low on the phone, so I plugged it in. The phone told me that the source was not strong enough to charge the phone and to try shutting down some apps. I assumed that it was because the GPS was still active, although I really don't know because I didn't bother testing that theory, as I was just around the corner from my house. (No jokes about using the GPS to get home, please. )
Anyway, when I got home, I plugged into my laptop (which was running on AC power) using the cable that came with my XV6800. Note that the cable is always connected to my laptop via a cheap USB hub. I experienced no problems.

CDMA Touch Pro 2 - Charge from PC/Laptop?

Sorry if this is a duplicate thread, I searched quite a bit for a solution but only found stuff for the TP, not the TP2.
Ok, so I know with the original TP you could charge it from a computer, but it was not as fast as a wall charger unless you had the fix that allowed it to charger faster on the computer.
Well on my TP2, it really won't charge the phone, and if I am using something like wifi router that uses a lot of power, it will actually lose power while charging off my computer...
Is there a fix to bypass this so I can have my phone plugged into my computer and charge it???

make sure in your battery settings the box that says "when device is turned on, do not charge the battery when connected to the PC" is unchecked. meaning an empty box. if its checked off, uncheck it. also, this might help, when plugged up to ur computer, cut ur backlight all the way down or low. the phone will use less battery that way and will charge faster when hooked up. either way though, charging thru a pc is trickle charging, meaning its gonna b slower than wall charger anyways. i havent came across the fix u mentioned for the TP.

trickle charging is when battery is fully charged and is still pluged on charger, then charging change to trickle power charge, around 20mA+actual request of the phone. this way if you have phone/any electronic in general on charger for a month, it's still kept fully charged.
---
htc have two modes of charging slow 500mA and fast 1A (1000mA)
to say to the phone that charger is fast, you need to have one pin on mini-USB connected to ground. this pin is unused by mini-usb specifications but htc is using it for this trigger.
---
cut open mini usb connector on usb to mini usb cable and wire the unused PIN to power ground (get pinouts pics or use multimeter!!!!! don't guess try it)
then you still facing another problem, USB is strictly specified to not exceed 500mA (with 10% toleration) no trick to get more then this from one usb. some computers are not so precise with rules though and could give slightly over 550mA
to get 1A you need to use two usb ports in parallel. like some china made usb harddrives enclosures
get an additional USB connector and add it to your cable.
NOTE: DON'T CONNECT DATA LINES ON THIS SECOND CONNECTOR!!!!!
data = inner 2 pins
power = outer 2 pins
* you can get an USB extension cable, wire 2 power lines out of it, connect to your usb - miniusb cable... this way you still can use the other usb for other device
NOTE: this is not a standard though accepted solution. I haven't saw or heard of any burned computers cos of this but wouldn't be surprised to see one.
anyway if I had that need, I would go for it
when making this cable, be very sure 5v wire is not touching data lines!!! Test it properly before plugging to PC! I have brand new laptop now, the old one is lying with DEAD usb host below table just because I believed there have to be protection against this. There IS NOT.
NOTE: NEVER LAUGH ON MY PAINTINGS!!

Or you can buy one for $4
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Othe...medium=shoppingengine&utm_campaign=googlebase

actually NOT.
without grounding the special pin on mini USB side of the cable, mobile would charge by 500mA no matter if you put 100A charger in. or paralleling 20 USBs

Wow...I'm pretty tech savy but that was a bit confusing...so I get the gist of that, but how is it that all it takes is plugging the usb chord into the htc ac power supply will fix that? why isn't it required for all that jazz of rewiring crap on the ac adapter as well, since it comes from the same usb chord...?

eh, have mercy with that english slang we are mostly not englishers here
What you meant was, why htc AC (wall) charger charges on hi power without those tricks?
Because the connection is already made there.
That's not a hidden trick anyway. Not even trick. It's a standart feature.
HTC is, not like other manufacturers, sticking to specs and mobile would not demand more then 500mA from standart usb connection.
usb is defined to be max 500mA
if you want a connector which is based on standart (htc's usb-hub can use usb cables), and you want a fast charging without violating standarts than this was the best resolution, to use pin which is generaly unused to trigger-detect 1A charger.
But as htc didn't made computer fast-charge cables. A serious company will not release such a cable. Connecting power from two usb hosts together - I feel pain by doing it, but it proved computer stabilizators don't mind it and though I don't think it's giving really double, it's giving more then 500mA.
But here you have to "imitate" original htc AC charger by shortwiring that trigger pin the way as it is there.
hope this was your question about.
Just final note in red when making this cable, be very sure 5v wire is not touching data lines!!! Test it properly before plugging to PC! I have brand new laptop now, the old one is lying with DEAD usb host below table just because I believed there have to be protection against this. There IS NOT.

[Q] Looking for App / Widget

Hey there...
Has anyone come across an app or a widget that can show you the actual current draw from the charger?
I have about 4 different car chargers that don't seem to be up to the job and I would like to see if they're actually putting out enough juice... or, more importantly, is the phone getting enough juice...
Something that could show what the phone is using vs how much it's getting would be even better...

The only info you can get in the incoming current is the phone telling you USB (0.5a) or AC. Type *#*#info#*#* in dialer to see this info. I think its under general.
More to the point the charger probably isn't the problem.
The phone will draw up to 1a when connected to an official AC charger. Otherwise it will draw up to 0.5amp (USB).
USB standard is 0.5amp the phone needs about 0.7amp to charge when switched on. If you were to plug your phone into your laptop USB port and your phone tried to pull 1amp it 'could' fry parts of your laptop because it is only designed for 0.5amp. To stop this the phone will only charge at 0.5amp when attached to an unknown charger.
To make the phone charge properly we need to make the phone think its plugged into an original charger.
To do this simply short the data pins.
This can be done one of 2 ways.
Crack open the charger and short the 2 middle pins.
Or
Get a USB wire extender. Cut it in half and splice the data wires together. Look on Wikipedia for the colours, I don't remember.
I like the second option because you can then use it to charge from any USB port. Ie ps3 Xbox wii freeviewbox skybox laptop PC or whatever has a USB port on these days.

I have 4 chargers all rated 1A that I have "modded" and none of them seem to be able to actually charge the phone...

Get a voltimeterthingy to see how many amps it is outputting.
If none of them work maybe its your car. Could have blown a fuse. Might not even be connected of its a used car. Try the chargers in another car.
Does the phone say its charging when you plug it in and then not charge or does it just do nothing?

Phone comes up "Charging (AC)" but doesn't actually charge...

Androids built-in power monitor gathers current data and can show you the battery charge rate approximately. It does work fairly accurately by our testings in the FroYo Battery Life thread. Use apps from the market like CurrentWidget or OSMonitor (under Messages) to see instantaneous device current draw (or net charge) but you'll very likely need root access for these to work.
-----------------------------------
- Sent via my HTC Desire -

Awesome! Thanks... CurrentWidget is exactly what I was looking for

[Q] 120v/USB wall combo outlet charges everything but the galaxy S4

Today I picked up and installed two combo 120v/USB wall outlets so I can get rid of all the wall warts I currently have. The USB ports charge everything (tablet, HTC phone, Bluetooth) but the two galaxy S4's I have. Has anyone used one of the outlets before? Any ideas on why they will not charge the S4's?
The Specs for the USB side of the outlet is.
Switching Frequency Typical 140 kHz
Output Voltage Nominal 5V (+/- 10%)
Protection Current Limiting and Thermal Shutdown Protection
Output Current Constant Current Maximum 2.1A
The outlet is a Commercial Spec Grade Combination USB Charger made by Cooper Industries
Part number is TR7745 if anyone wants to look it up for any reason.
Thank you in advance for your help.

change usb cables
Try changing to a different USB cable. It's weird how often this is the problem.

What does it do when you plug it in? Does it do anything at all? Does it even act like it's connected? Does it TRY and charge but just can't keep up? I have ones by Leviton that work fine with my S4 and my fiancees iPhone/iPad.
EDIT: I just noticed if you look at the reviews on Amazon HERE it seems multiple people have had problems with the S4 and this model. One thing I noticed with most that I looked at before buying mine was that the listed current was shared between the ports, whereas the Leviton version has one port that's 2.1 amps and one that's 1 amp independent of each other. This one might be 2.1 amps shared, so anything else plugged in might not work out.

02CWRX said:
What does it do when you plug it in? Does it do anything at all? Does it even act like it's connected? Does it TRY and charge but just can't keep up? I have ones by Leviton that work fine with my S4 and my fiancees iPhone/iPad.
EDIT: I just noticed if you look at the reviews on Amazon HERE it seems multiple people have had problems with the S4 and this model. One thing I noticed with most that I looked at before buying mine was that the listed current was shared between the ports, whereas the Leviton version has one port that's 2.1 amps and one that's 1 amp independent of each other. This one might be 2.1 amps shared, so anything else plugged in might not work out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm having the same problem. It's listed as "dual 2.1A". The first second I plug it in it flashes the charging indicator, then it goes off. No charging happening whatsoever.

farkmeil said:
I'm having the same problem. It's listed as "dual 2.1A". The first second I plug it in it flashes the charging indicator, then it goes off. No charging happening whatsoever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever have any luck with the S4 problem? Does it make a difference which side you plug the USB cable into?

re: charger
olneybrandon said:
Today I picked up and installed two combo 120v/USB wall outlets so I can get rid of all the wall warts I currently have. The USB ports charge everything (tablet, HTC phone, Bluetooth) but the two galaxy S4's I have. Has anyone used one of the outlets before? Any ideas on why they will not charge the S4's?
The Specs for the USB side of the outlet is.
Switching Frequency Typical 140 kHz
Output Voltage Nominal 5V (+/- 10%)
Protection Current Limiting and Thermal Shutdown Protection
Output Current Constant Current Maximum 2.1A
The outlet is a Commercial Spec Grade Combination USB Charger made by Cooper Industries
Part number is TR7745 if anyone wants to look it up for any reason.
Thank you in advance for your help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try using a different usb cable from phone to charger,
be sure both ends have a snug fit and it should work.
I have one which is similar to yours.
Since it puts out 2.1ma just like the stock S4 wall charger
it should charge just as fast.
Good luck!

bitbang3r said:
Did you ever have any luck with the S4 problem? Does it make a difference which side you plug the USB cable into?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately no. I didn't mention before that I'm an EE, however, none of the troubleshooting steps I could think of had any effect. :crying:

Can use A Cooper USB Electric Outlet with S3 and S4
I saw this thread while trying to solve this very issue. I have the Cooper USB outlet and installed it thinking it would charge my phone and my wifes. It would charge her S3, but not my S3. She has the LTE version (SGH-I747) and I have the HSPA version (GT-I9300). Well I thought it would not charge my S3. After playing with it for a few minutes, I could get the charge light on the outlet to blink. No charging was happening as the charge light on the outlet would just blink and then stay off. On my wifes S3 I could plug it in it would start charging instantly.
After playing with my S3 and the cord (The same cord used for my wifes S3 as I had already tried numerous cords) I found I could slowly insert the micro usb end into my S3 and it would start charging. It was tricky, but after 30 minutes of wasted time, I got it to charge. I would have to ever so slowly plug it in, either at a sideways angle or at a slightly elevated angle. This was regardless of the usb cord used.
However my S3 died and I got an S4. Naturally my S4 would not charge just by plugging it in, but I tried the "slow insert" method, on both the micro USB side and the outlet side and both worked.
I am thinking there is some kind of tolerance issue surrounding the electrical connections. Sliding the USB connector in slowly at the outlet side, I beleive, would ground the connection first and then allow for charging, but this is where my knowledge of electricity starts to bad. That said it is possible to use the charge, but it is not plug and play.

I just picked up a couple of these for the kitchen to alleviate the eyesore of the wall warts and I can also confirm it charges everything I have thrown at it except my S4 (jfltezvw) =( I quickly found this post after googling it. I am currently doing some work on the phone now but I will attempt the super technical "plug it in slowly" later and see if it works =)
Has anyone had any luck with other brands? I find this REALLY odd.

just installed this same outlet, and sure enough it charges everything except the S4..."slow insert" doesn't seem to work...does anybody know of any other solutions besides not using it?

wall charger option
I also have one of these outlet/usb from cooper that will not work with my s4.
Has anyone tried to use a DUAL POWER micro USB cord (like the ones that comes with the portable hard drives) to see if that would do the trick?
unfortunately, I do not have one of these cables, or I would try it myself.
Here's what I am thinking is happening...
The S4 is equipped with a smart charger that can trickle charge after a complete charge cycle.
When first connected, the s4 starts a trickle charge while it tests the battery for the charge cycle.
The cooper is equipped with a current limiter that shares power between the two outlets.
The cooper unit sees the trickle charge, and switches to a lower current setting for the slot with the s4 plugged in. reserving current for the empty outlet.
The s4 then tries to engage a fast charge, but cant due to the lack of current, and shuts down the charge circuit.
If a dual usb cord to micro usb cable was used, both outlets would be tied to the s4, and full power would be available to the s4 at all times.
Of course, without a cable myself, this is almost all conjecture on my part, and I could be just blowing smoke up my own arse, huh?
LoVoltage
EDIT: Of course, remember that the cable you use has to have the D+ jumper to signify the 2.1 amp availability. If you don't, the cable won't work. (Most dual port usb cables have this jumper already. so does the OEM samsung cable)

Just installed one of these tonight. Specifically the Cooper TR7745/TR8245 15A/125V
I can charge my Note 2 (SGH-I317), Nexus 7 wifi, but not an Samsung Galaxy S4 (SGH-I337). Kinda weird.

Fast Charging USB Cable for Cars / laptop

Hey all,
The ONE gets too hot... Solved :good:
The ONE charges slowly... Solved :good:
My HTC ONE was charging very VERY slowly since I got it... And it was actually discharging slowly if plugged in and using navigation in the car..
Now, I don't have the original HTC car charger and its a stupid amount to pay for that...
I've used over a dozen of cables and chargers but none of them would charge properly...
Ordered this earlier this week and it got delivered today
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321159008835&ssPageName=ADME:L:eek:C:GB:3160
Looks decent, and I would highly recommend it for anyone having charging problems with universal USB chargers.
Just tested it, I fired up Waze (which I usually use), Mobile Data, GPS, Skype in background and anything that would run in the background using as much power as it can .... Streaming Music over Bluetooth.. Screen was ON all the time with MAX brightness
My ONE slowly (really slowly) went from 53% to 54% ..:laugh::laugh:
Regarding ROM etc (if it makes any difference) , I'm running Viper One with ElementalX Kernel. 384Mhz Min and 1674 Max. Undervolted to -50mV & Fastcharge ... plus an Air Vent mounted phone holder for cooling features .. The ONE gets too hot
I can finally use the ONE as a proper nav, without having to worry about switching the screen off every now and then...

Sounds good, and in what charger you use?

Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.

Kraize said:
Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.

rancor22 said:
That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.

Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, might not fry a powered USB 3.0 port but don't try this.

Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
Mpro747 said:
Sounds good, and in what charger you use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you guys might wanna look at this sweet babe, you will know exactly how many hours to fully charge ur HTC One :silly:
http://www.thepowerpot.com/solar-power-optimized-practical-meter

hmm interesting, but if the 24awg cable has a potential of frying your usb port, guess what this one will do
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4

Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 24AWG wire used in the cable does nothing for helping your phone charge faster, its the fact that the two data lines are shorted in the cable. This tells the device that it is connected to a dedicated charger, even if it is not, and that it can pull however much current it needs.

Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.

Vincent Law said:
Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.

rancor22 said:
Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.

Vincent Law said:
That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.

rancor22 said:
Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.
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Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.

Vincent Law said:
Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.
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I am not disagreeing with you that hosts can control and meter power but it does that by assuming the end device will also follow usb spec and is listening to what it is saying. So yes what I am saying is that for a device that does not follow USB spec and does not enumerate the only current control it receives is a hardware current limit. I don't know the whole usb spec well I know battery charging specifications so if this is completely wrong can you point me to the part of the USB specifications where it says the host must limit current draw. In a perfect system the hardware current limit will change as the host specifies how much power the device is allowed to draw, but more likely the protection IC(s) are just there in the case of a short, esd, or a device that is supplying power to the host (reverse current).

Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables

bliblablub said:
Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables
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I just bought a RocketFish USB car charger and cable From BestBuy. It charges wicked fast, even when using navi and or streaming. I believe is is 10 watts and 2.1 amp output. That adapter will probably fix ya up, I used to have the same problem but not any more
Sent from my gimped not yet unlocked Verizon One