Sorry if this is a duplicate thread, I searched quite a bit for a solution but only found stuff for the TP, not the TP2.
Ok, so I know with the original TP you could charge it from a computer, but it was not as fast as a wall charger unless you had the fix that allowed it to charger faster on the computer.
Well on my TP2, it really won't charge the phone, and if I am using something like wifi router that uses a lot of power, it will actually lose power while charging off my computer...
Is there a fix to bypass this so I can have my phone plugged into my computer and charge it???
make sure in your battery settings the box that says "when device is turned on, do not charge the battery when connected to the PC" is unchecked. meaning an empty box. if its checked off, uncheck it. also, this might help, when plugged up to ur computer, cut ur backlight all the way down or low. the phone will use less battery that way and will charge faster when hooked up. either way though, charging thru a pc is trickle charging, meaning its gonna b slower than wall charger anyways. i havent came across the fix u mentioned for the TP.
trickle charging is when battery is fully charged and is still pluged on charger, then charging change to trickle power charge, around 20mA+actual request of the phone. this way if you have phone/any electronic in general on charger for a month, it's still kept fully charged.
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htc have two modes of charging slow 500mA and fast 1A (1000mA)
to say to the phone that charger is fast, you need to have one pin on mini-USB connected to ground. this pin is unused by mini-usb specifications but htc is using it for this trigger.
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cut open mini usb connector on usb to mini usb cable and wire the unused PIN to power ground (get pinouts pics or use multimeter!!!!! don't guess try it)
then you still facing another problem, USB is strictly specified to not exceed 500mA (with 10% toleration) no trick to get more then this from one usb. some computers are not so precise with rules though and could give slightly over 550mA
to get 1A you need to use two usb ports in parallel. like some china made usb harddrives enclosures
get an additional USB connector and add it to your cable.
NOTE: DON'T CONNECT DATA LINES ON THIS SECOND CONNECTOR!!!!!
data = inner 2 pins
power = outer 2 pins
* you can get an USB extension cable, wire 2 power lines out of it, connect to your usb - miniusb cable... this way you still can use the other usb for other device
NOTE: this is not a standard though accepted solution. I haven't saw or heard of any burned computers cos of this but wouldn't be surprised to see one.
anyway if I had that need, I would go for it
when making this cable, be very sure 5v wire is not touching data lines!!! Test it properly before plugging to PC! I have brand new laptop now, the old one is lying with DEAD usb host below table just because I believed there have to be protection against this. There IS NOT.
NOTE: NEVER LAUGH ON MY PAINTINGS!!
Or you can buy one for $4
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Othe...medium=shoppingengine&utm_campaign=googlebase
actually NOT.
without grounding the special pin on mini USB side of the cable, mobile would charge by 500mA no matter if you put 100A charger in. or paralleling 20 USBs
Wow...I'm pretty tech savy but that was a bit confusing...so I get the gist of that, but how is it that all it takes is plugging the usb chord into the htc ac power supply will fix that? why isn't it required for all that jazz of rewiring crap on the ac adapter as well, since it comes from the same usb chord...?
eh, have mercy with that english slang we are mostly not englishers here
What you meant was, why htc AC (wall) charger charges on hi power without those tricks?
Because the connection is already made there.
That's not a hidden trick anyway. Not even trick. It's a standart feature.
HTC is, not like other manufacturers, sticking to specs and mobile would not demand more then 500mA from standart usb connection.
usb is defined to be max 500mA
if you want a connector which is based on standart (htc's usb-hub can use usb cables), and you want a fast charging without violating standarts than this was the best resolution, to use pin which is generaly unused to trigger-detect 1A charger.
But as htc didn't made computer fast-charge cables. A serious company will not release such a cable. Connecting power from two usb hosts together - I feel pain by doing it, but it proved computer stabilizators don't mind it and though I don't think it's giving really double, it's giving more then 500mA.
But here you have to "imitate" original htc AC charger by shortwiring that trigger pin the way as it is there.
hope this was your question about.
Just final note in red when making this cable, be very sure 5v wire is not touching data lines!!! Test it properly before plugging to PC! I have brand new laptop now, the old one is lying with DEAD usb host below table just because I believed there have to be protection against this. There IS NOT.
Related
Im a long time lurker, and been following alot of posts... let me just say that you guys really are geniuses...this is day 2 of having my tmobile tp2.. and i been reading your forums since yesterday morning non stop....
If you have the time im interested in this...
1- i seen a post on speeding up the time your usb charges your tp2. But didnt see the cab or the reg edit string.. if there is one... is there?
2- info for adding items, or removing "call history" from home screen? maybe replacing with more comon things like messaging...
3- any way to constantly keep a stock listed in the tf stock tab? instead of always having tgo type in the same stock?
4- i just bought tt6 for an older phone...obviously it wont work with tp2. and i dont want to pay $ for a new program. i spent it all on teh phone..
does WVGAFIX3 work? or any other programs top change res before starting TT6?
5- with out downloading or running programs.. when on homescreen, "camera" and "allpeople" are always on the bottom green bar.. can i replace them with somethign more usefull?
seriously....you guys are awesome...
Would also like to know how to speed up USB charging. Think i read somewhere you get 1000mah per hour with the charger and 500mah with USB charging.
yeah, home charger that came with the device is rated on the make as 1A, or 1000mah... and i do know that usb is 500mah.. or .5a standard..
but when using my tp2 while connected to usb, it sometimes gets a pop up message saying charge supply insufficient...
perhaps cable doesnt fit well in the phone? either way, usb charging is very slow...
USB ports on a computer cannot output more then 500Mah. this has nothing to do with the phone.
the Wall charger can only output 1000Mah, again, this has nothing to do with the phone. just the way it is.
if you wanted to charge the battery faster you could get a battery charger for Rccars. you will not get the battery to charge faster through conventional means.
FYI, the fastest you can safely charge the battery in the Tp2 is 1500Mah. (1C) or you will risk damaging the battery and limited recharge cycles.
By any chance are you sharing the same USB port with other devices through a USB hub?
not sharing any other devices on the usb port....
what you say makes sense, and i wouldnt use a charger more then 1000mah... not worth the risk...
MAYBE its all relative since working with it in hand constantly and charging usb wise...
ill actually test mine tomorrow and time how ling it takes to charge usb from 0 to 100%
just a note : current is measured in Amps or milliamps (ma) , mah is milliamp hours and refers to battery capacity. Chargers output ma , not mah.
Getting the insufficient power popup when trying to charge via USB means the computer isn't giving out enough current to the USB. Try using different USB ports... i've known some USB ports are able to give more power on the same computer... depending on what header theyre plugged into on the PC motherboard.
Try to find an original HTC Universal (Imate JasJar etc.) charger. It is rated for 1500ma. I use it once a month for my Touch HD (a somewhat higher amperage recharge can condition a weak battery but it gets pretty hot....so beware!) and I am still using my HD (9 months old) like it is new.
Regards,
Gordo
Hi Loueber,
in regards to point 4 I have used WVGAFIX3 with TT6, it basically swaps you phone to lower resolution leaving a black bar at the bottom of the display. But it does then allow older QVGA apps such ass TT6 to be run.
Hope that helps
This program should take care of you: http://www.nuerom.com/BlogEngine/page/nuePowernueBattery.aspx
without that the USB hub will only power up to 500ma, with that it'll go up to 1000ma like it would off a wall charger.
Not from USB, the wall charger offers a slightly higher voltage, and from that the phone knows it can draw down a higher amperage. The Nuerom power driver will maximize the power you can draw from USB, but it still will not draw over 500ma from USB.
Even if split the four wires from the USB charge cable, and hook power wires up to a 5.1V 1000ma wall charger, and the data wires to your computer it will STILL only draw 500ma. The phone has multiple different safety mechanisms to prevent draw of over 500ma from a USB port.
In short, the only way to charge at faster then 500ma is from a wall charger. Unless somoene hacks the power drivers for the TP2/Rhodium in a way that contravenes the built in safety mechanisms.
I used a female to female usb adapter.. usb to mini-b adapter.. and finally a Y adapter that came with a cheap (10$) SATA-to-USB hard drive enclosure.. It allows the HD to pull max current and not operate in wimpy .5A mode. This is useful for 7200rpm 2.5 inch hds.. but I digress.. One end is data+power, another is power only.. Pull the data plug and the charging light remains constant.. That tells me the TP2 is utilizing power from both sources. The same works for pulling the power-only plug.. I'm tempted to hook up the data port to the wall adapter and test out that 1.5A someone mentioned earlier..
I'll try it out tonight..
btw: I'm currently looking for a program to show me the power input.. So far, tbattery isn't playing nice with my 1% battery driver.
Blades said:
btw: I'm currently looking for a program to show me the power input.. So far, tbattery isn't playing nice with my 1% battery driver.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doesn't the previously mentioned nuePower control panel app do it?
There is some misconception on this.
In the USB connector at the phone, there is a pin that if grounded tells the phone to charge at a max of 1 amp. If it is floated, it charges at a max of 500ma. If you go over 500ma, you risk damaging some laptop USB ports, thus the reason for the limit when using a USB cable. The supplied charger grounds that pin and goes up to 1 amp.
So it doesn't matter if you have a 5.1 volt supply, or a 4.9 volt supply, or 1 amp available or 20 amps available. It will charge at 1 amp, or 500 ma. max depending on the charge mode pin.
The pinout that I have calls it pin B. It is the pin next to the ground.
http://www.hardwarebook.info/ExtUSB
I don't recall where I got it, but I have an inline plug that I can insert in the USB plug that has a switch. Flip that switch, and the current goes up to 1 amp from the USB port.
Theres a program called batteryinfo.exe located in \Windows. Its pretty simple.. but it does show the info I need. It does create a log file in \.. Safe to delete whenever (assuming app is closed). So far, I haven't seen anything above 1 amp.. Theres discharge current (how much mA your device is using) and charge current. They usually add up to around 1A.
This NC pin.. if this were grounded by the HTC AC adapter, wouldn't the other end (USB) of the cable have 5 pins?
I have the htc AV connector.. I'm sure that has all the necesary wires in the jacket. I don't want to cut it up yet tho..
It would probably be better to cut up a 'dongle'. I would make an rj45 connector for each row of pins. Once you have some cat5/5e/6 cable to play with, the possibilities are endless..
Any more info on this nc pin?
I have travelled to devon on Saturday and used Google maps navigation which is simply superb as u could see the traffic jams in advance (believe me there were plenty of them) I had my phone charger charging my desire but the battery drained still any idea why surely the charger should charge it or keep the power at the same level ?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Anyone surely someone must know why the car charger hasn't enough power to charge the phone when running navigation and the normal phone functions
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
I have no solution but I have the same problem. Quite frustrating.
You need a charger that outputs at least 1000mA. Most in-car chargers only output 500mA, and so the phone will discharge quicker than the charger can charge it.
Regards,
Dave
foxmeister said:
You need a charger that outputs at least 1000mA. Most in-car chargers only output 500mA, and so the phone will discharge quicker than the charger can charge it.
Regards,
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
especially with some GPS apps that consume lots of juice...
Any suggestions which are the best chargers ? Does anyone know what the new HTC dock will incorporate ?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Get a cheap USB cable extender, cut it in half and short the middle 2 pins. Don't remember what colours they are. Look on Wikipedia.
I had same problem. Not anymore. Charges properly when I plug in through the custom cable.
This is a common problem.
It bugged me sufficiently that I investigated it in detail.
The Desire, and presumably some (all?) other HTC phones, employ relatively complex charging circuitry.
When you plug a USB cable into the phone, the phone does at least two different checks to determine what type of power source you have just connected.
If you have plugged in a mains powered official HTC charger, which has a rated output of 1A, then the phone knows that it is safe to draw a maximum of 1A from that charger.
The phone will then draw enough current to power itself and, on top of that, charge the battery at the same time.
This current will typically be in the region of 800mA (0.8A) to 900mA (0.9A).
Under these conditions there is enough current to power all the functions of the phone, including WiFi, Bluetooth and GPS, as well as the usual GSM radio and the phone's other functions, as well as being able to charge the battery.
However, if the phone believes that it is connected to a power source with a lower rating such as a standard USB port, then it will limit the maximum current that it draws from that power source to between 400mA (0.4A) and 500mA (0.5A) as this is the maximum officially provided by a USB port.
In other words, the phone is intelligent enough not to overload a standard USB port but, when more power is available, it is able to use it.
The mechanism that HTC uses to detect a power supply capable of supplying 1A, as opposed to a USB port, is very simple indeed.
When the phone detects that an external power source has been connected, it checks to see if the two data lines of the USB connector on the bottom of the phone have been short-circuited.
If they have been short-circuited, the phone takes this to mean that a suitable power source has been connected providing a current of at least 1A.
If the data lines are not short-circuited, the phone assumes that the power is coming from a USB port or other device not capable of providing more than 500mA.
In practice, the way this has been implemented is that within the official mains powered HTC charger, the two data pins of the USB connector are shorted together.
As soon as you connect this charger to the Desire, the phone detects the short-circuit and knows that it is connected to a charger capable of supplying 1A.
This particular trick seems to be something unique to HTC rather than being a universal standard, although this is a bit of a guess on my part based on having looked at only a few other chargers.
What this means is that if you have a car charger that is rated at 1A or higher, your HTC Desire will still only draw a maximum of 500mA from this charger.
This problem is easily rectified by opening up the charger and soldering together the two centre pens of the USB connector so that the phone sees this short-circuit and realises that it can safely draw I higher current from the charger.
Unless you know what you are doing and fully understand what I have explained above, then please don't go fiddling around with your charger.
I have carried out this modification myself on a couple of non-HTC mains-powered chargers and a couple of 12V car chargers with 100% success.
I have, however, found that some 12V chargers, even though they are rated at 1A or even 1.5A do not result in the Desire drawing the expected current.
What I found was that the phone would draw only about 250mA and then, after I had shorted the data terminals within the charger, the phone would draw about 450mA but not the 850mA or so that I had expected.
I have yet to determine with certainty why this is but it appears that as the phone begins to draw current from the charger it is able to detect if there is even a relatively small dip in the voltage coming from the charger and, if so, the phone backs off on the amount of current that it draws.
I will be doing a few more tests in my electronics lab to try and get to the bottom of this and provide a more detailed analysis and, hopefully, a useful solution.
In the meantime though, I have at least solved the problem that I was having and, based on numerous forum posts, the same problem that many other people have been having with car chargers not effectively charging the Desire.
Tim
mercianary said:
Get a cheap USB cable extender, cut it in half and short the middle 2 pins. Don't remember what colours they are. Look on Wikipedia.
I had same problem. Not anymore. Charges properly when I plug in through the custom cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Snap!
I didn't see your post before making mine (above) but my experimentation agrees fully with what you've said.
You can do it the way you've described, by modifying a cable, or you can do it inside the charger itself.
Just make sure that the cable going to the phone has all four USB wires in it. Some of them only have the two power wires, so the phone will never detect the short circuited data lines.
Tim
If you do not want to open your car charger, you can always create a male to female adapter that shots D+ and D- on the female side like the one in the attached picture
Obviously, the charger needs to be able to provide the 1Amps that are needed. If not, it will at best shutdown in protection mode, at worst fry completely with a great chance of fire...
Interesting stuff...
I bought an official HTC car charger and noticed that the included usb cable, when plugged into a pc, does not allow data transfer, only charging.
Can anyone explain that ? Why would there be a difference in the wiring ?
They want you to buy an official USB cable I guess ? Considering any microusb cable works I'm surprised they bother
Maybe because they just put the two VCC and GND wires in there, thus saving on the cabling cost.
Ok how about this then......
I have a USB port I'm my car (to plug in music on a dongle I presume) if I use the USB lead from my charger supplied with the phone (which also works as a data cable) I get a the charging status icon on the battery bar.
So......
Is my phone charging at 1 amp on the car, and at home or am I getting 0.5 on both or something else?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
_Crusoe_ said:
Ok how about this then......
I have a USB port I'm my car (to plug in music on a dongle I presume) if I use the USB lead from my charger supplied with the phone (which also works as a data cable) I get a the charging status icon on the battery bar.
So......
Is my phone charging at 1 amp on the car, and at home or am I getting 0.5 on both or something else?
Sent from my HTC Desire using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you check your battery stats by dialing *#*#4636#*#* and look at battery info, then you can see if it is charged by USB (max 500 mA) or at AC (more then 500mA)
I bought the official HTC charger, works perfectly.
thanks a lot for the explanation. I went for an uprated USB car charger but was still using normal cables to plug into it and the phone wasnt keeping up when bluetooth and GPS was on and was flat by the end of a long journey. Have tried the mod and phone is showing as plugged into AC so hopefully this is going to sort my issues.
So am I right in saying that, unless you get one which has been adapted as described above, there is no real difference between one in-car charger and another - none of them will be up to the job of keeping the phone full of jiuce whilst running GPS over a long journey.
Was thinking of shelling out for a Brodit kit, but at £50+, I'll stick with a cheap one.
Narco77 said:
Interesting stuff...
I bought an official HTC car charger and noticed that the included usb cable, when plugged into a pc, does not allow data transfer, only charging.
Can anyone explain that ? Why would there be a difference in the wiring ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the offical charger and the usb cable is fine for data transfer.
Bingo Accent said:
So am I right in saying that, unless you get one which has been adapted as described above, there is no real difference between one in-car charger and another - none of them will be up to the job of keeping the phone full of jiuce whilst running GPS over a long journey.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really.
For the "mod" to work, your charger must be able to source at least 1000mA which most can't anyway.
So you first have to find a charger that does and then, if it's not already the case, short the D+ and D- cables together.
Note that this can be done by disassembling the charger (not being sure of being able to put it back together), by using conductive glue on the USB plug itself (a bit invasive) or by using an adapter like the one I shown in my previous message (but you need to do it yourself or have someone do it for you)
Whenever I plug my Desire in an AC outlet, it charges ridiculously slow. I check the battery status and it says "Charging (USB)" (not AC) and USB Debugging pops up. My wall adapter says it has an output of 1000ma. Is the chord bottle-necking the charging speed or is it the adapter? I am using the chord that came with my phone but I bought a new adapter to fit my countries outlets.
Same problem. I would like a resolution to this also.
There is allready a thread concerning this issue and it has the solution your looking for.
mercianary said:
There is allready a thread concerning this issue and it has the solution your looking for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have looked on the forums and it should seem like I should get regular AC charging on my Desire. I have a 1000mah charger and I am using the USB cable that came with my phone. I am wondering why I do not. I looked at my USB (fat side) pins and they are shortened. I have included an image of my charger.
if the adaptor says it supports iPhone etc then that is why the USB debugging symbol is coming up.
because that symbol is up it will only charge at 500mA max (the phone thinks it is in a PC, it doesn't wnat toburn out the USB port).
if it is a cheap adaptor, the voltage regulator may be limited to 100mA. thats what happened with me.
either way, in my eyes you have 3 choices.
1. buy a new adaptor
2. put a new voltage regulator in the adaptor (a friend did this for me)
3. use a converter so the adaptor you have will work in your wall.
nzdcoy said:
if the adaptor says it supports iPhone etc then that is why the USB debugging symbol is coming up.
because that symbol is up it will only charge at 500mA max (the phone thinks it is in a PC, it doesn't wnat toburn out the USB port).
if it is a cheap adaptor, the voltage regulator may be limited to 100mA. thats what happened with me.
either way, in my eyes you have 3 choices.
1. buy a new adaptor
2. put a new voltage regulator in the adaptor (a friend did this for me)
3. use a converter so the adaptor you have will work in your wall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
O I didn't realize if it was branded to work with iPhone it would charge slowly. Thank you for your help. Next time I'll watch out for a "Works for the iPhoney."
Bump
I would like to know how it ended?
I have a same problem, the only difference is that i have stock HTC AC charger with separate USB cable (stock too). When plugged to AC it shows "charging(USB)". Tried different cables, same result. Tried two different AC adapters, but both were from NOKIA, same result...
This might help your slow charging issue
If the wall charger is causing your phone to charge in a USB state, the charge time will be very long compared to a normal AC charging state which I'm sure you are aware of. A cable called QuickCharge might help. It will enhance USB charging to AC charging. You can find it on Amazon by searching for 'QuickCharge'. It's the 2nd or 3rd item down.
I know this is mostly common knowledge but I still see many questions regarding this come up, so instead of explaining this over and over I can now link to this and flame away.
anyway...
When you charge your phone using an original HTC wall charger you phone gets all the power it needs to run itself and charge (up to 1000ma).
When you charge from any (most) other devices (this includes car chargers,non HTC wall chargers or any USB port) your phone will draw up to 500ma (the USB standard) REGARDLESS of the devices output.
The reason why the phone only draws 500ma on USB is so it does not damage any equipment by drawing more power than it can output safely (by design anything with a USB port can safely output 500ma).
The trouble is pretty much all equipment can safely output more than the USB standard of 500ma and safely charge your phone at full speed.
The phone distinguishes between an original HTC charger and other devices by whether or not the data wires are shorted (connected to each other).
How to do the charger mod.
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for anything that may happen as a result of doing this, by following these instructions you will be pushing any device you charge your phone from beyond the USB specifications, results of this may be, but not limited to your motherboard bursting into flames, you car exploding, the inventor/s of USB knocking on your door and slapping you in the face, but most probably faster charging and not a lot else.
Get yourself a short USB extender wire, male at one end, female at the other.
Cut the wire in half.
Connect the red and black wires up as they were before (or don't cut them in step 1).
On the Female side of the wire connect the green and white wires together.
On the Male side of the wire simply leave the green and white wires connected to nothing.
Insulate the ends of all of the wires with insulating tape.
Tie a knot in the wire so if the wire is pulled the knot is pulled and not the connection you made, it doesn't look pretty but the wire will last a lifetime this way.
All done, now use this wire in between your desire and whatever you want to charge from and get a full speed charge. You will lose data connectivity when using this wire.
There are other ways of doing this, for example.
Soldering together the data pins (middle 2) on the device you wish to charge from. Don't do this on your laptop...this method is intended for car chargers, wall plugs, and external USB battery packs.
Soldering together a male and female USB port and plug directly with no wire in between, this can look really good if you know what your doing.
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
ste1164 said:
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a 3rd party changer and I did this mod and it's working really great it's charging really fast
ste1164 said:
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The original charger shorts the data pins so it doesn't matter what cable you use.
Hi,
just wanted to say thank you for the idea. For me this is really usefull in some situations at work, where I have no access to a socket, but a pc.
It charges not as fast as the AC charger, but MUCH faster, than the usual 500mah USB method.
And so does it look like:
fileden.com/files/2006/9/25/238757/charger2.jpg
fileden.com/files/2006/9/25/238757/charger1.jpg
TrTech said:
just wanted to say thank you for the idea. For me this is really usefull in some situations at work, where I have no access to a socket, but a pc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And next time, use your brain first, please.
Do you have an idea why the HTC Desire does limit the current to 500mA if it's not connected to a dedicated charger which shorts the two data pins? Ever thought about it? Ever?
Umm... yes. But please feel free to enlight me.
TrTech said:
Umm... yes. But please feel free to enlight me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
umm, and I thought the post starter already answered this question:
The reason why the phone only draws 500ma on USB is so it does not damage any equipment by drawing more power than it can output safely (by design anything with a USB port can safely output 500ma).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So in other words:
Any laptop or computer can output max. 500mA by USB specifications.
So this means:
You can have luck and your computer doesn't get damaged if more current gets requested, it just limits the current to something around 500mA.
You can have luck and your computer just shuts down the USB port and Windows reports you that a malfunction device got connected.
You can have bad luck, most often the case, especially on cheap notebooks, netbooks, computers, a fuse will prevent bigger damage and the USB port remains dead until the rest of it's computer live.
So the limit got wisely chosen. So if you want to use your USB ports in the future, too, then only use this 'trick' on wall adapters which support an output current equal or larger than 1A (1000mA), or use it only in combination with USB ports which support that high currents (most often advertised as being able to charge the Apple IPad), most often found on external USB hubs.
UpSpin said:
umm, and I thought the post starter already answered this question
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Me too. Its all written in the first post and I'm doing it on my own risk. Still wondering about your raging post.
I will update this, as soon as the first pc was fried.
TrTech said:
Me too. Its all written in the first post and I'm doing it on my own risk. Still wondering about your raging post.
I will update this, as soon as the first pc was fried.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was that 'unfriendly' because other people will do the same, because person xy said that it works. Then they fry their mainboard or notebook and complain.
I also don't understand why anyone risks damaging intentionally its computer or parts of it, especially if there's absolutely no need for it, e.g. just let it charge in USB mode, or take a small charger with you, or at least use two USB ports to separate the load.
But well, maybe some people don't have to take care of their computer.
This is an interesting thread. I have a Pebble charger and it literally takes four hours to charge my 1400mAh from ~0% to 100%, now my question is, will this damage my Pebble charger shorting the two wires to draw a greater current from the unit?
Overheating, melting and explosions are something I am looking to avoid.
I have yet to find a device that has been damaged doing this. I have personally tried this on a ps3, Xbox wii, 4 laptops 2 desktops, car radio,car charger and a sky+ box.
Kalavere said:
This is an interesting thread. I have a Pebble charger and it literally takes four hours to charge my 1400mAh from ~0% to 100%, now my question is, will this damage my Pebble charger shorting the two wires to draw a greater current from the unit?
Overheating, melting and explosions are something I am looking to avoid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try this? I too have a Pebble and would be interested to know if I have just 30 minutes to plug it in, can I charge quicker.
Also, did the guys PC blow up? He said he would come back!?!? Maybe it did and he's in hospital still Dangerous things USB ports...
thanks for this ! I go to try this
MM i have an interesting one (which i still dont get)
i have a pebble charger
with OEM HTC Micro USB charger cable
and Pebble charger
plug phone into OEM micro USB charger to phone (phone says Power AC) yeh thats right
OEM Micro USB to computer (chargin USB)
So far so good
Pebble charger OEM USB to phone (chargin USB)
Pebble Cable charger to phone ( Power AC)
why are the OEM and Pebble charger cables different?
Sorry if i am posting in the wrong area but the topics seem pretty similar to me =P
to put my 2pence in, i've just done this but slightly different than the OP method..
i bought the belkin car charger, gives 1amp, but is detected as 'USB', not 'AC' charging mode, so my phone only charges upto 500ma which isnt enough (in reality it doesnt charge when i have GPS & max screen brightness).
instead of modding a USB cable (unable to use for data) or buying extra kit (money/ordering/going out) i pulled a strand of wire from a spare mains cable i had, threaded it through the 2 center pins on the belkin charger and then twisted the wire together.
USB cable is slightly tighter in the socket now, but still removable and keeps everything nice and tidy.... and more to the point; cheap!
poor shown from belkin; 'USB charger' mode in a car! like it would ever have data connection to the 12v socket.
hope that helps someone!
USB cable to quick-charge an HTC smartphone
Check http://winhlp.com/node/855 for some more details and photos of a USB cable modification.
Does this mod change the detection of car mode
Hi,
I have just started flashing a couple of roms and noticed that when using my desire with my car charger (1amp rated) it does not charge when doing navigation. looking on battery widget I get a max 289mw on car charge and it is showing as a USB charge. Flashed back to stock and now the car charger shows up as ac connected rather than USB. This does solve the discharging on navigation issue but I would like to run Gingerbread.
my question is...
Will this mod stop the Desire detecting and automatically entering car mode when it is plugged in? Anyone done it to their car charger?
Ta
Yes
The cable modification (shorting the data lines 2 and 3, instructions at http://winhlp.com/node/855 ) will switch any HTC smartphone into AC charging mode.
But I am totally stumped as to why you can achieve AC charging mode without this mod. I know of no other way the HTC phone could detect a car USB charger. I'm tempted to ask you to repeat the test.
If anybody here has any idea, please respond. To the best of my knowledge no USB device is allowed to pull more than 0.5 A from USB power, lest the power source switch off according to the USB specification. The only exception is that the device gets positive information that it is connected to a charger that can deliver a higher current, and for HTC devices that is signalled by a shortcut between the two data lines.
Thank you. I would rather not check again I did look for a while. Reverted back to stock for now.
It is a Huawei curly lead car charger with a 1a rating. The strangest thing is that with my stock Vodafone rom it detects as AC power on battery widget but on both leedroid and RCMix it shows up as a USB charge and I get the power issue. On all three roms it detects car mode correctly (Which is good!).
I was just wondering if the mod would also break the car mode detection?
I can't find anything on how car mode is detected!
I am considering buying this usb charging adapter cable to help speed up my charging rate at work where I don't have an AC adapter and my work computer's usb ports are conveniently placed. From what I have read, normal usb charging maxes out at 500ma, but can be increased if your usb port has more juice if you short the data wires, which will tell the phone to grab more power because it thinks it is plugged into an AC adapter.
I have found this adapter http://www.dealextreme.com/p/usb-data-charging-extension-cable-for-samsung-p1000-black-91141
it is meant for a galaxy tab, but From what I see is that it has a switch that either allows data / slow charge or allows quick charging. I have purchased a few of these already because I'm assuming it will still work with my galaxy s2.
I'll let everyone know how it goes, but does anybody see a problem with this or think I'm going to fry my phone for any reason?
Thanks.
very interesting, heck it's only $3 bucks, might as well just buy it and find out
yes, charging via USB port sucks, it's too slow at 500 mAh
if that does the magic trick, by shorting it and making it believe it's an AC then it'll be nice, and it can pull around 1000 mAh off the USB port (depending on your computer mainboard)
Id be curious to see if this actually works but i see no fault in trying it
cbutters said:
I am considering buying this usb charging adapter cable to help speed up my charging rate at work where I don't have an AC adapter and my work computer's usb ports are conveniently placed. From what I have read, normal usb charging maxes out at 500ma, but can be increased if your usb port has more juice if you short the data wires, which will tell the phone to grab more power because it thinks it is plugged into an AC adapter.
I have found this adapter http://www.dealextreme.com/p/usb-data-charging-extension-cable-for-samsung-p1000-black-91141
it is meant for a galaxy tab, but From what I see is that it has a switch that either allows data / slow charge or allows quick charging. I have purchased a few of these already because I'm assuming it will still work with my galaxy s2.
I'll let everyone know how it goes, but does anybody see a problem with this or think I'm going to fry my phone for any reason?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only the Galaxy Tablets have this limitation (they cannot be charged at all via computer usb only via their "special" wall adapter) so the adapter won't do anything for a phone. The adapter works on the tablet because what the adapter is doing is shorting 2 pins on the USB cable to fool the TABLET into thinking it is on the AC adapter "specially made" for it.
As long as you plug the phone it into a self-powered usb port (ie: a hub with a power brick) you will get max current the phone allows. The adapter will make no difference on the phone because the phone CAN charge off the PC port while the tablet cannot. It won't hurt the phone but it won't help it either.
MisterEdF said:
The adapter will make no difference on the phone because the phone CAN charge off the PC port while the tablet cannot. It won't hurt the phone but it won't help it either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info on the galaxy tab, however I disagree with you in your opinion that an adapter that shorts the data wires will not help the phone to charge quicker.
It seems either the devices or android system itself limits charging to 500ma so it does not damage the computer, the phone itself knows that it is connected via usb, and will state "Charging: USB Plugged"
If you let the phone think it is connected to an AC adapter, it will allow the battery to accept whatever amperage you throw at it, and you will see that the system states "Charging: AC Plugged"
Obviously there are two modes of charging going on here.
See this thread:
see here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=844284
Has anyone tried this yet?
I have found that using the Galaxy Tab chargers works the same way. They have a 2amp output vs the .5 amps that most blackberry chargers and USB use... It shortens the charge time significantly.
TMO SGS2, Darkside 3v8, Kernel Venom 3#5, UVLC8
Charger considerations
Hi,
I need advise for the following:
Charger A (Li-polymer battery) output : 5V, 1A
Charger B (Li-polymer battery) output : 5V, 500mA
Device input: 5V, 750mAH (Li-ion / Li-polymer)
When using Charger A, some people comment that it will limit the current of 750mAH for the device and the device's battery should be fine since both the charger and device are at 5V. However, some people comment that this will shorten the battery life of the device since it will perform a 'quick charge' using 1A.
When using Charger B, some people comment that the device will draw more current than it can deliver and causes it to heat up and reduces the charger's life. However, some people comment that Charger B will extend the battery life of the device since it performs a 'slow charge'.
I also read that USB pins on the charger denotes if the charger is a PC or a dedicated charger. If it is a PC, the device will limit the drawing current. If it is a dedicated charger, the device will draw more current to charge itself.
I am confused as to who is right and which charger should i be using.
Can someone enlighten me ?
Thank you very much.