Develop Bugs

USB not powerful enough to charge?

Anyone else having this problem. When I have my TMOUS TP2 hooked up to USB I keep getting told it's not getting enough power to charge.

Interesting. Is the USB plugged into a USB hub or straight into a computer? I can charge mine via USB when its straight into the computer. I'll try with hub a second to see if there is a difference.
Edit-
No, I cant. When plugged into a 4-port USB hub, I also cannot charge. I'm using some generic nonsense hub, dunno if a higher quality one (or one that also plugs into the wall for juice) might make a difference

Yes!
Many laptops are not powerful enough to charge the TP2. Also many hubs will divide the power between the ports.
A standard USB port will give you about 1A and the above mentioned gives you typically less than 1/2A.
Putting TP2 in standby will help if on a weak port, but that makes no sense, cause then you can use the charger.

It's directly in to my PC.. weird.

I got the "not enough power" USB warning when plugged into my laptop...but not right away -- it had been plugged in for 30-60 minutes or so.
I have not received that warning when plugged into the USB port of a full-power-desktop PC, even when plugged in for hours.
I try to remember to bring the ac adapter that came with my TP2 when I'm going to be away from home for a while so I don't have to depend on USB-power from a computer.

I charged off a 0.5A power source (the most you'll get out of a standard USB port), but the device was turned off. Took about 3.5 hours to fully charge it.
Did you have anything like wifi, gps, etc turned on at the time?

how much power is left on the phone? IIRC, if its too low, your phone will not charge through USB & you need the AC adapter.

There are "powered" and "unpowered" USB ports. The "unpowered" ones just basically carry enough current to carry signals, but not actually power a device. The "powered" ones carry enough current to charge a device.
Many laptops are "unpowered" ports, although I think that trend is changing. Most desktops I would assume are "powered".
I personally only power my phone on one of two official chargers I have, although if I'm in the car I'll use a third party adaptor there.
I don't know if the TP2 is any different than the Tilt in regards to charging, but I'd assume very similar.... Perhaps I'll have the TP2 soon, I've finally gotten ATT to let me have an early upgrade but haven't found the actual phone yet.

I have a 5v 1A car charger. When in the car if I am using Pocket Player, and my GPS program at the same time I will get the message that:
"there is not enough current to properly charge the device. Please should shut down unneeded programs." or something like that...
And sure enough, my phone will die if left like this. It won't charge, even though it shows that it is... curious.
Could it be the cable is not allowing enough current? I am using an older cable in the car, as I have my TP2 supplied cable on my computer....I am going to try swapping these 2 cables tomorrow and see what happens.

I've had my Sprint TP2 for 12 days now and experienced this problem once. I was plugged directly to my PC via the USB port. I believe my battery was at about 30% so I disconnected it and used the travel charger for awhile and plugged it back into the PC USB port. So far that's the only time it's happened.

Might be the cable!
cameraddict said:
Could it be the cable is not allowing enough current? I am using an older cable in the car, as I have my TP2 supplied cable on my computer....I am going to try swapping these 2 cables tomorrow and see what happens.
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Hello,
I had exactly the same problem and found out it WAS the USB cable - the one used couldn't offer more than 300mA to the phone, even if connected to orriginal HTC AC adapter. After changing the cable, the 1A car charger gives the same mA as the AC adapter (checked with nuePower - http://www.nuerom.com/BlogEngine/page/nuePowernueBattery.aspx)
Radu

nradu:
Thanks for the info.. I haven't driven anywhere since I posted that! I will be in the next day or so... glad to know the answer is simple.
I too, just downloaded the NuePower program. Will be installing this as well. Did you by chance have the chainfire 1% battery cab installed? If so, did you unistall it first? Wondering if there will be a conflict between the 2.

cameraddict said:
Did you by chance have the chainfire 1% battery cab installed? If so, did you unistall it first? Wondering if there will be a conflict between the 2.
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Hi,
Yes, I have chainfire's cab, I didn't uninstall it before installing NuePower (btw, I have tried once to uninstall it and after a soft reset, the 1% info was still there). the only bug I saw was when pressing the OK button in NuePower - sometimes phone hungs or runs very very slowly. Best is to use it only to test the cables and uninstall it. and don't press OK button, just minimize it with End Key or do a soft reset if handy.

Mine does the same thing lol
I get the same thing, i think they should make these devices use even more power.

Don't know if will help, but last night I was in my car using Live Search for GPS purposes. The battery was low on the phone, so I plugged it in. The phone told me that the source was not strong enough to charge the phone and to try shutting down some apps. I assumed that it was because the GPS was still active, although I really don't know because I didn't bother testing that theory, as I was just around the corner from my house. (No jokes about using the GPS to get home, please. )
Anyway, when I got home, I plugged into my laptop (which was running on AC power) using the cable that came with my XV6800. Note that the cable is always connected to my laptop via a cheap USB hub. I experienced no problems.

Battery Drains while playing video via MHL/HDMI connected to mains.

Hi guys,
I have a simple MHL connector (ie splits into power & hdmi), to hookup the phone to the big screen. It looks pretty decent, but even when connected to mains, (which it must have otherwise hdmi doesnt work), it loses charge while playing video.
I have tried several players (dice / mx).. all play well, but phone cant keep up with charging & playing at same time..
Am doing some tests to see how bad it draws. When I go into system details, phone shows it is charging via mains.. but it appears it cant put out enough current to charge and play..
Would make a LOT of sense to me that the LCD screen (which draws about 70% of the power) actually switched off during playback via HDMI.
anyone know if this is possible or if they can charge & play a video at the same time..
I seem to be losing about 1% battery every 2 mins.
Can someone else test so i can know if It is just a dodgy MHL I have or if they are all like this. Have tried both SD & HD video.. all quite similar results.

be aware
Use the original charger or one with 5v 1a otherwise your phone won't get enough power for example I know a BlackBerry charger has a lower output

Crabitpig said:
Use the original charger or one with 5v 1a otherwise your phone won't get enough power for example I know a BlackBerry charger has a lower output
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This was with the original charger unfortunately.

This is the same issue why I wrote that One X is unusable for in-car navigation. Basicaly what happens when under load (navigation, playing a movie, playing a game) is that battery gets into "Overheat" state (you can see this in OS Monitor for example) and stops charging.
My test for car navigation shows that power is drained by 25%/hour when plugged in and Sygic is running. Battery is in overheat state most of the time. This happens at about 50 deg.C if I remember correctly - this looks a little low so maybe they'll tweak it a little, but it doesn't solve the underlying problem really, just delays it...
So I blame crappy heatsink construction or overral internal design, this should not happen under any circumstances (and my iPhone is a marvellous example that it can be done - it is able to navigate and charge at the same time, and gets into overheat only when car ventilation is turned off and sun is shining on its' black body - my One X is white and overheats no matter what I do).
This will sooner or later be the reason why people will start returning their phones en masse...

Get 2 amps charger from eBay, see if it helps. I do have one, but only use it when I really need a quick charge in very shor time. Not advised to use as primary charger, but for powering both: phone and MHL at the same time, it might just do the trick.

schriss said:
Get 2 amps charger from eBay, see if it helps. I do have one, but only use it when I really need a quick charge in very shor time. Not advised to use as primary charger, but for powering both: phone and MHL at the same time, it might just do the trick.
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I tried this, doesn't work. The problem is not insufficient current, it's overheating.

schriss said:
Get 2 amps charger from eBay, see if it helps. I do have one, but only use it when I really need a quick charge in very shor time. Not advised to use as primary charger, but for powering both: phone and MHL at the same time, it might just do the trick.
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zvieratko said:
I tried this, doesn't work. The problem is not insufficient current, it's overheating.
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2a won't work as the phone is limited to 1a
If the battery temp is 48 or over it goes in to overheat state green and red notification.
If you are rooted you could disable two cores see if that helps.
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium

This same issue came up in the Nexus forums a while back. Evidently, AC charging requires that the USB data lines to be either shorted or have a resistor across them (forget which one). Since MHL is using those USB data lines for video, they cannot be used to signal AC charging capability, so you're stuck with the max USB draw of 500ma. That's way less than the amount of juice you're using, so you end up running the battery down. You should be able to confirm that by noting the charging mode displayed while using MHL.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using xda premium

[Q] MHL cable not charging

So i got an MHL cable to connect my 1X to my tv to play snes games with a bluetooth controller
It works fine, plus it looks great... BUT!
The phone says it's charging.. little red light, battery info says charging, but it looses charge as i use it.
Just finished playing a snes emulator for 30 mins. I had the phone in airplane mode, plus the screen brightness on the lowest setting.
After 30 mins it went from 85% to 72%!! plus it was really warn/hot.
Is this normal? Is it because the screen is still on on the 1X?
Does the media link thingy work better? does the screen turn off on the phone when using that?
Anyone else got an MHL cable? does your phone loose charge while using it?

Under heavy use, charging in USB mode (500mA limit) will usually still see the battery level decrease. Are you putting the auxiliary charger off a USB out from your TV/console? If so this will be the case.
I have only given my MHL adapter a quick try. Not really used it in anger yet. Can't say for sure what would happen if you used a wall charger instead of a USB one. No doubt the charge wouldn't drop, but would want to keep a very close eye on the temperature!
Are you rooted?

i think the mhl adapters (mine at least) has a maximum output, to the phone, of 500ma.
This means even if you plugin a wall charger @ 1A, then it will still only provide the phone 500ma of power max.
The rest of the power goes to actually powering the cable itself, in order to get the picture on the tv.
the reason it drains, is because the consumption of the screen/cpu is greater than the 500ma of power that the mhl adapter is providing.

Thanks for the reply.
My phone is not rooted. It's just a standard out of the box 1X.
Also, when using the MHL cable the phone was plugged into the mains charger & was still loosing charge! plus it was very warm..
Maybe i'll try to find some info about those charging dock/cradle things with the HDMI out. Maybe that be better???
lawrence750 said:
i think the mhl adapters (mine at least) has a maximum output, to the phone, of 500ma.
This means even if you plugin a wall charger @ 1A, then it will still only provide the phone 500ma of power max.
The rest of the power goes to actually powering the cable itself, in order to get the picture on the tv.
the reason it drains, is because the consumption of the screen/cpu is greater than the 500ma of power that the mhl adapter is providing.
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Ah, ok.. that makes sense really.
I did think maybe there was more power being used than coming in... shame you can't turn the screen off on the 1X.

I think you have already done the sensible thing of trying airplane mode and min screen brightness. If it still heats up doing that on USB charging, then it's unlikely a different dock/adapter would see a reduction in drain & heat. I'd save your money there.
I only asked about root in case you could try Core Control to reduce heating, but never mind there.
Only thing I found that kept my phone cool when charging under heavy use (before I rooted it), was making sure I took the case off and I rest it on a granite drinks coaster I have! Draws the heat out of the phone very efficiently!

Fast Charging USB Cable for Cars / laptop

Hey all,
The ONE gets too hot... Solved :good:
The ONE charges slowly... Solved :good:
My HTC ONE was charging very VERY slowly since I got it... And it was actually discharging slowly if plugged in and using navigation in the car..
Now, I don't have the original HTC car charger and its a stupid amount to pay for that...
I've used over a dozen of cables and chargers but none of them would charge properly...
Ordered this earlier this week and it got delivered today
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=321159008835&ssPageName=ADME:L:eek:C:GB:3160
Looks decent, and I would highly recommend it for anyone having charging problems with universal USB chargers.
Just tested it, I fired up Waze (which I usually use), Mobile Data, GPS, Skype in background and anything that would run in the background using as much power as it can .... Streaming Music over Bluetooth.. Screen was ON all the time with MAX brightness
My ONE slowly (really slowly) went from 53% to 54% ..:laugh::laugh:
Regarding ROM etc (if it makes any difference) , I'm running Viper One with ElementalX Kernel. 384Mhz Min and 1674 Max. Undervolted to -50mV & Fastcharge ... plus an Air Vent mounted phone holder for cooling features .. The ONE gets too hot
I can finally use the ONE as a proper nav, without having to worry about switching the screen off every now and then...

Sounds good, and in what charger you use?

Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.

Kraize said:
Yet again, I must explain that cables do not differ if they are similar quality wise. All certified cables should be 24+ AWG btw. Don't be fooled by things like "fast charging." It mostly depends on the charger you're using. (Unless of course, you bought a crappy cable). Also should add that a 4 pin vs a 5 pin cable also creates a difference in charging time.
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That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.

rancor22 said:
That cable shorts the data lines to trick the phone into thinking it is connecting to a compatible charger. Any charger that supply 5V and >=1A should be fine with that cable. I would NEVER use the cable on a computer as the phone will try to pull as much as if it was on a wall charger some where around 750mA - 1A.
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Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.

Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
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Yep, might not fry a powered USB 3.0 port but don't try this.

Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
Mpro747 said:
Sounds good, and in what charger you use?
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A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
Kraize said:
Which in turn would probably fry all your usb ports.
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Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
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you guys might wanna look at this sweet babe, you will know exactly how many hours to fully charge ur HTC One :silly:
http://www.thepowerpot.com/solar-power-optimized-practical-meter

hmm interesting, but if the 24awg cable has a potential of frying your usb port, guess what this one will do
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4

Neelesh35 said:
Many people (inc me) do not know that there are 24 AWG cable, and would use a stupid standard micro usb cable in to charge the phone in vain ...
A standard USB port mounted on Cig lighter socket. It does the job right now
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The 24AWG wire used in the cable does nothing for helping your phone charge faster, its the fact that the two data lines are shorted in the cable. This tells the device that it is connected to a dedicated charger, even if it is not, and that it can pull however much current it needs.

Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.

Vincent Law said:
Why would you buy a cable for this? Get the right charger in the first place and you wouldn't have this issue. Actual proper phone chargers already short the data pins (in fact, I'm surprised you found one that doesn't). Now you have a cable that cannot be used for anything other than charging.
Also, to whoever said this would fry USB ports: no, it wouldn't. Even with shorted data pins, the host machine still won't put any more power out than it is specified to. In fact, this means that using this cable, connected to a computer, would result in it charging SLOWER than if you allowed the phone to negotiate with the computer for faster charging.
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Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.

rancor22 said:
Actual computers don't do a good job of limiting current they assume the device will satay within USB spec.
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That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.

Vincent Law said:
That couldn't be further from the truth. Windows even keeps track of the actual loads (it'll tell you when your USB host reports it cannot provide more power). The host decides how much power to provide the device anyway, it's not up to the device. If the device asks for 50 amps, the PC isn't going to try and serve that up. That would be insane and dangerous.
What it WILL do is start with an initial very low current (like 20mA IIRC). The device has its USB client chip powered by this, and uses it to negotiate. The device will then request however much current it needs. However, USB 2.0 spec states that the maximum is 500mA. The device can request more, but it by no means may expect to receive it. The PC may respond and say that it will only serve the maximum. Often it will respond by saying it will provide as much as it is capable (for some laptops and such, this could be as low as 500-600mA). The device must then deal with what it is given (it can use less, but it CANNOT draw more). Note that host devices can actually provide as little as 100mA if available power is limited.
However, many PCs nowadays are designed for charging, and provide over a full amp. They will do so during negotiation. If you use a charge only cable, you're gambling that the PC will go into a high current (AKA "take as much as we can offer") mode. Not all will do so. Some will follow the actual spec, and force the device into a lower power (100mA max, IIRC) current state, leaving you with basically no charging capability.
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Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.

rancor22 said:
Windows keeps a record of what devices have requested, not what they are currently drawing. When you use the cable you are bypassing all if this( the software/embedded enumeration and negotiation for power) and then you are just relying on the hardware current limits. In an inexpensive system and possible even expensive ones the hardware probably only as one current limit if it has one at all. Lets say the USB protection IC as a current limit of 1A. A device that is connected with the charging cable is just going to pull current as if its hooked up to a wall adapter for this example let just say the phone draws 900mA. The dangerous part about this is that the computer has no idea this is going on, if the device doesn't enumerate the computer will never know its drawing current unless it trips an overcurrent limit.
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Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.

Vincent Law said:
Your entire post runs on the assumption that the USB host, for some reason, would have no way of controlling its power output other than an overcurrent limiter. Not only is this NOT what the USB spec states, but it's also so hilariously dangerous that if it were true, you'd be hearing about it all the time. It'd mean you could create a device that instantly pulls maximum current from the system, frying any system without an adequate overcurrent limiter.
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I am not disagreeing with you that hosts can control and meter power but it does that by assuming the end device will also follow usb spec and is listening to what it is saying. So yes what I am saying is that for a device that does not follow USB spec and does not enumerate the only current control it receives is a hardware current limit. I don't know the whole usb spec well I know battery charging specifications so if this is completely wrong can you point me to the part of the USB specifications where it says the host must limit current draw. In a perfect system the hardware current limit will change as the host specifies how much power the device is allowed to draw, but more likely the protection IC(s) are just there in the case of a short, esd, or a device that is supplying power to the host (reverse current).

Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables

bliblablub said:
Bought a HTC CC-C200 some time ago for my HTC Desire where it did a nice job. Now with the One I encounter the problem that it discharges when being used (navi, scanning, ...).
Is there any newer original car charging cable that I can use? I do not want any 3rd party china cables
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I just bought a RocketFish USB car charger and cable From BestBuy. It charges wicked fast, even when using navi and or streaming. I believe is is 10 watts and 2.1 amp output. That adapter will probably fix ya up, I used to have the same problem but not any more
Sent from my gimped not yet unlocked Verizon One

Car Tablet Install Not Charging Consistently.

As the title I'm having problems charging. A lot of the time the battery is discharging and requires being charged inside, where it does charge consistent and fast!
I the car I have a 10amp 5v dc/dc converter providing the power, I have the thick cable OTG from amazon, along with Amazon basic USB cable extensions, and a 4 port hub.
I've used different chargers, even dual chargers with a USB hub that had independent power, I changed the OTG cable, Heck I even changed TABLETS! From a Wi-Fi to an LTE. The only common thread is the backup camera and Timur's kernel.
Considering it charges perfectly plugged into a wall I assume it's not the kernel.
I've seen at least one other with this issue, Any ideas? I've been playing with this for months and as mentioned have changed every aspect of the install except the camera.

fr4nk1yn said:
As the title I'm having problems charging. A lot of the time the battery is discharging and requires being charged inside, where it does charge consistent and fast! I the car I have a 10amp 5v dc/dc converter providing the power, ...
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Click to collapse
These car chargers supply perfect 5.0V while your original Asus AC charger delivers 5.2V (have a look at its specs). Believe it or not, 0.2V makes the difference, and at 5.0V your tablet will not charge reliably. I actually use a regulated PSU set higher, at 5.3V, to compensate for voltage drop on poor USB cables.
Look for 5.2V/2A car charger and use max 1m quality USB cable, no hubs.

Thanks. The charger is indeed 5.2v. Odd. What charger are you using?
This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Re...1513386282&sr=8-8&keywords=dc+to+dc+converter and it puts out 5.1v
I found it was only getting 8v-10.5v and wired it directly to the car's wiring, I was using spades previously to connct to the Aux power connector, Getting full 14.2v made no difference to the tablet's charging.
Next I removed the tablet and plugged it into a 5v/2amp wall charger using the old OTG and the old 3 foot USB extension cable. It charges consistently between 580 - 740mA. Meanwhile it went dead installed in the dash, again.

fr4nk1yn said:
This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Re...1513386282&sr=8-8&keywords=dc+to+dc+converter and it puts out 5.1v.... Meanwhile it went dead installed in the dash, again.
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To diagnose this problem you will have to acquire a simple, cheap USB meter and connect it as close as possible to N7. Note on the attachment my N7, 15cm USB cable and a tester measuring 5.18V. Please post your voltage reading.

I bought a 3amp adjustable DC to DC converter.
Set the voltage to 5.3v initially, then measured at the end of my 1 meter USB extension cable. It was still 5.3 so I dropped it back to 5.2v.
Plugged the tablet in, and it's immediately discharging at 563mAh. No apparent change after some use.

Thanks @k23m for the help. This thing just deteriorated. Something pulling a huge amount of power too. Sucked a fully charged battery to 0 in a day of of running errands. And it was sluggish beyond belief. I thought the ROM might be corrupt.
So I did the battery removal mod. It's working great on the bench so it's being wired up tomorrow. Thanks again.