Develop Bugs

2 USB into 1 mini USB charger cable?

Anybody tried charging their phone with one of these dual USB-A to one mini USB-B Y cables? They typically come with external 2.5" drive enclosures to provide enough power for the drive. It could be cool for a fast full 1 amp charge via USB when no better charging option is handy, and certainly better than the majority of crapola mis-labled under-powered chargers out there. I just can't afford to be the guinea pig if such a cable uses proprietary pinouts and will fry the phone.

amps are pulled not pushed
Ohm's law == (Amp == Volt / resistence (Ohm) )
so your charger could be 1MegaAmps and your device would only draw as much as
volt being 5volts and the resistence would be what the charging system inside
the phone is which is also a constant
all the wallchargers we use for these devices with usb connectors got plenty more juice then .5amps usb provide

Thanks for the detail. I've never been good at sorting out volts, watts, amps, etc. Regardless, I'm not concerned about it providing too much juice, mainly that it's a proprietary non-spec cable that may use a proprietary pinout. There's a guy on PPCGeeks who successfully & briefly tried a similar cable without ill effects. Waiting on a promised in-depth test to see if it actually charges faster, etc. I'm still a bit chicken to try it as I can't afford to be phoneless right now.

Well, I went ahead & tried it. I loaded nuePowerCPL which showed just under 500 mA, same as a good quality USB cable. Interestingly, a wimpy skinny USB cable delivered only 160 mA. Maybe other PCs will yield better results, but the 2 into 1 cable offers no improvement for me.

I stumbled across a product specifically designed to charge from 2 USB ports:
http://www.ppctechs.com/HTC-Touch-P...l-Sync-USB-Power-Adapter-Y-Cable_1300-440.htm
I doubt it's any different than the portable hard drive cable I tried. I also read that some newer USB implementations can supply more than 500 mA, so those with different/newer motherboards may still benefit from this charging technique. It would be great if others could load nuePowerCPL and report their results.

Have you used 5 in 1 USB cable? The USB cable can transfer data and recharge at same time. I have never used so I am looking for the highest quality possible. Also, I would like to thank you all suggestions.

Rudegar said:
the resistence would be what the charging system inside the phone is which is also a constant
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not strictly true; at least some phones have two charging modes; slow (run from a USB port) and normal (when running from the wall). My Rhodium, for example, draws something like 2A when run from the wall charger. I understand that the wall charger has a slightly higher voltage than the 5v usually seen from a USB cable, and it is through this that the phone knows it can charge in "normal" mode.

Update: It works, just not enough of a difference to get super excited about:
http://forum.ppcgeeks.com/showthread.php?p=1664169#post1664169

CDMA Touch Pro 2 - Charge from PC/Laptop?

Sorry if this is a duplicate thread, I searched quite a bit for a solution but only found stuff for the TP, not the TP2.
Ok, so I know with the original TP you could charge it from a computer, but it was not as fast as a wall charger unless you had the fix that allowed it to charger faster on the computer.
Well on my TP2, it really won't charge the phone, and if I am using something like wifi router that uses a lot of power, it will actually lose power while charging off my computer...
Is there a fix to bypass this so I can have my phone plugged into my computer and charge it???

make sure in your battery settings the box that says "when device is turned on, do not charge the battery when connected to the PC" is unchecked. meaning an empty box. if its checked off, uncheck it. also, this might help, when plugged up to ur computer, cut ur backlight all the way down or low. the phone will use less battery that way and will charge faster when hooked up. either way though, charging thru a pc is trickle charging, meaning its gonna b slower than wall charger anyways. i havent came across the fix u mentioned for the TP.

trickle charging is when battery is fully charged and is still pluged on charger, then charging change to trickle power charge, around 20mA+actual request of the phone. this way if you have phone/any electronic in general on charger for a month, it's still kept fully charged.
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htc have two modes of charging slow 500mA and fast 1A (1000mA)
to say to the phone that charger is fast, you need to have one pin on mini-USB connected to ground. this pin is unused by mini-usb specifications but htc is using it for this trigger.
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cut open mini usb connector on usb to mini usb cable and wire the unused PIN to power ground (get pinouts pics or use multimeter!!!!! don't guess try it)
then you still facing another problem, USB is strictly specified to not exceed 500mA (with 10% toleration) no trick to get more then this from one usb. some computers are not so precise with rules though and could give slightly over 550mA
to get 1A you need to use two usb ports in parallel. like some china made usb harddrives enclosures
get an additional USB connector and add it to your cable.
NOTE: DON'T CONNECT DATA LINES ON THIS SECOND CONNECTOR!!!!!
data = inner 2 pins
power = outer 2 pins
* you can get an USB extension cable, wire 2 power lines out of it, connect to your usb - miniusb cable... this way you still can use the other usb for other device
NOTE: this is not a standard though accepted solution. I haven't saw or heard of any burned computers cos of this but wouldn't be surprised to see one.
anyway if I had that need, I would go for it
when making this cable, be very sure 5v wire is not touching data lines!!! Test it properly before plugging to PC! I have brand new laptop now, the old one is lying with DEAD usb host below table just because I believed there have to be protection against this. There IS NOT.
NOTE: NEVER LAUGH ON MY PAINTINGS!!

Or you can buy one for $4
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Othe...medium=shoppingengine&utm_campaign=googlebase

actually NOT.
without grounding the special pin on mini USB side of the cable, mobile would charge by 500mA no matter if you put 100A charger in. or paralleling 20 USBs

Wow...I'm pretty tech savy but that was a bit confusing...so I get the gist of that, but how is it that all it takes is plugging the usb chord into the htc ac power supply will fix that? why isn't it required for all that jazz of rewiring crap on the ac adapter as well, since it comes from the same usb chord...?

eh, have mercy with that english slang we are mostly not englishers here
What you meant was, why htc AC (wall) charger charges on hi power without those tricks?
Because the connection is already made there.
That's not a hidden trick anyway. Not even trick. It's a standart feature.
HTC is, not like other manufacturers, sticking to specs and mobile would not demand more then 500mA from standart usb connection.
usb is defined to be max 500mA
if you want a connector which is based on standart (htc's usb-hub can use usb cables), and you want a fast charging without violating standarts than this was the best resolution, to use pin which is generaly unused to trigger-detect 1A charger.
But as htc didn't made computer fast-charge cables. A serious company will not release such a cable. Connecting power from two usb hosts together - I feel pain by doing it, but it proved computer stabilizators don't mind it and though I don't think it's giving really double, it's giving more then 500mA.
But here you have to "imitate" original htc AC charger by shortwiring that trigger pin the way as it is there.
hope this was your question about.
Just final note in red when making this cable, be very sure 5v wire is not touching data lines!!! Test it properly before plugging to PC! I have brand new laptop now, the old one is lying with DEAD usb host below table just because I believed there have to be protection against this. There IS NOT.

[Q] Optimal charging hardware for Note III

So the note III is the first smart phone to use USB 3.0 this raises some interesting questions. First of all I’m a neophyte with electrical “stuff (to use the technical term) so I apologize if some of this is easily answered (which would be great).
1. Since USB 3.0 can draw 5 Voltsdoes this mean that the current crop of car chargers won’t charge the Note III at full speed. All the car chargers I’ve seen are 2.1 Amps (some are dual port and claim 4.2 but that’s total, not in a single port). Does this mean that we’re locked to slower charging in the car?
2. For those of us with built in DC/AC inverters, would we be better served by using that plug and a wall USB charger? If so which one, my Note III will be shipping soon, so I’m assuming that 1000mA is still the maximum (I think USB 3.0 supports 900mA).
3. Will the note III charge slower using a USB 2.0 cable even with the best inverter/car adapter
4. Do we need a “charge only” cable (like http://www.amazon.com/Specialised-Micro-USB-Cable-Charging/dp/B0088HTYUE ) to achieve the best charging speed ?
5. In the event we can't get an optimal charger will the note III charge faster with a 2.0 charge only cable vs a standard USB 2.0 (I assume so but better to ask).

The move to USB 3.0 only affects charge rates connected to a PC. 2.x is limited to 500mA while 3.x is 900mA I think. Both standards use 5V, but 2A AC chargers often run a bit higher at 5.3V. The chargers don't directly adhere to either USB spec and basically trigger fast charge the same as before, by shorting out or putting a fixed resistance between the data pins. My old HP TouchPad USB 5.3V/2A charger with 2.0 cord charges my Note 3 just as fast as the Samsung 5.3V/2A adapter with USB 3.0 cord does. If you look closely, you'll notice that the "USB 3.0" Samsung charger doesn't actually have the extra 3.0 pins, it uses a 2.0 port. That's because for pure charging devices the standard doesn't matter, only the current and voltage rating and that it shorts the data pins.
Sent from my SM-N900T using xda app-developers app

CalcProgrammer1 said:
The move to USB 3.0 only affects charge rates connected to a PC. 2.x is limited to 500mA while 3.x is 900mA I think. Both standards use 5V, but 2A AC chargers often run a bit higher at 5.3V. The chargers don't directly adhere to either USB spec and basically trigger fast charge the same as before, by shorting out or putting a fixed resistance between the data pins. My old HP TouchPad USB 5.3V/2A charger with 2.0 cord charges my Note 3 just as fast as the Samsung 5.3V/2A adapter with USB 3.0 cord does. If you look closely, you'll notice that the "USB 3.0" Samsung charger doesn't actually have the extra 3.0 pins, it uses a 2.0 port. That's because for pure charging devices the standard doesn't matter, only the current and voltage rating and that it shorts the data pins.
Sent from my SM-N900T using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the response.
So I should use a "charge only" cable, correct?

bladehawk said:
Thanks for the response.
So I should use a "charge only" cable, correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you want maximum charging out of a PC, yeah, otherwise it really doesn't matter. Also, if you use a fast charge kernel with fast charge enabled, it does the same thing by forcing the charger detection in software rather than in hardware. That said, you're still at the mercy of your USB port. USB 2.0 ports on PC's are only rated for 500mA usually and while you can overdraw from most without issue, you run the risk of overloading and at least triggering a software shutdown of the port (at worst, burning up the motherboard's power regulator for the USB 5V rail).
If you're plugging a cable into an AC adapter, it literally means nothing. All a "charge only" cable is is a USB A to micro B cable with the two data pins on the micro B side shorted together. Only the GND and +5V lines are wired through to the USB A connector which makes it only draw power, not data, and the shorting of the data pins makes it detect as an AC charger. Since the AC adapters short the data pins already, both cables look the same on the phone end when connected to an AC adapter. Same goes for a car adapter or external battery pack.
Technically, USB 2.0 and earlier, maybe 3.0 as well, are only supposed to let you draw 100mA. Devices must enumerate themselves to the controller and request the power limit be increased to 500mA. Many motherboards are pretty lenient about this so you can usually get away with plugging in a 500mA (or higher) load without telling the PC first but be aware it's breaking the specification and could be unsupported.

Some PC/laptop are BC 1.1 compatible. Meaning they can charge higher than the 450ma they usually do. I think it allows for up to 1.5a charging but don't quote me on that I forgot. I have a USB 2.0 hub that can use a wall charger and allows one device on any of the 4 ports (automatic sensing) to charge higher than usb2.0 specs. There are some hubs that allow all ports to do this. I am waiting for plufable technologies to update their 3.0 hub to do this.
sent from my sm-9005.

It is the normal case that the speed will be much slower when you charge a device such as your Note3 via USB than via DC Power Supply. USB is mainly designed for the communication. The standard charging current of many mobile phones is 1 A or higher. But the highest output current of USB cable is only 0.5 A which could not reach the source demand of a phone. Except for this, we do not recommend charging via USB because the unstable current output can easily reduce the battery life of your Note 3.

Handlewd said:
Except for this, we do not recommend charging via USB because the unstable current output can easily reduce the battery life of your Note 3.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now that's something I never thought about. I would always plug my old phone into my computer when I got to work just to keep it topped off. Though lately, I'm plugging into a powered Belkin hub, so hopefully the current is more stable.
Now that I've got a new phone, I may rethink my charging strategy.

[ALERT] TYPE-C PORT and TWO accessories FRIED

So I was charging my phone like usual. And I was slightly aware that there was a compatibility issue between QC 3.0 and Type-C.
HOWEVER, tonight at about 12amish GMT. I kept smelling a burning smell... Which I thought it was my cat. but then when I decided to charge my phone using my Lumia 950 XL charger. I discovered the port had been burnt, and the cape and phone where burning ****ing hot! I felt the type-c plug from the charge against my top-lip and I got burnt...
I'm writing this a bit panic-y as I want everyone to just know TO BE CAREFUL. I'm not sure what exactly caused this as I have looked after the phone as if its my baby. Always case and a screen protector. I have a feeling this is down to compatibility!?
Anyone with similar issues, suggestions or such?
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https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4dD-I6Fz_tNorEnRw
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4dBqVqPnnW6UgdktA
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4dAaR9KAmgBnUMaHw
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4c_KkbOCCaR4HbF3g
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4c-CX3xqnj2JjtoBA
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4c7inelDdbl20y7ug

Intraducinmista said:
So I was charging my phone like usual. And I was slightly aware that there was a compatibility issue between QC 3.0 and Type-C.
HOWEVER, tonight at about 12amish GMT. I kept smelling a burning smell... Which I thought it was my cat. but then when I decided to charge my phone using my Lumia 950 XL charger. I discovered the port had been burnt, and the cape and phone where burning ****ing hot! I felt the type-c plug from the charge against my top-lip and I got burnt...
I'm writing this a bit panic-y as I want everyone to just know TO BE CAREFUL. I'm not sure what exactly caused this as I have looked after the phone as if its my baby. Always case and a screen protector. I have a feeling this is down to compatibility!?
Anyone with similar issues, suggestions or such?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Lumia is c to c right? If so, yeah there were lots of reported issues where people used various c to c cables with a c brick (most were pixel or nexus chargers that I saw) that had the same issues you did. Think it ended up being that the 10 doesn't have the right safe checks in place to stop charging at 100%, and it just keeps trying to push 3 amps even when fully charged (could be wrong about that though)

guyverzero said:
The Lumia is c to c right? If so, yeah there were lots of reported issues where people used various c to c cables with a c brick (most were pixel or nexus chargers that I saw) that had the same issues you did. Think it ended up being that the 10 doesn't have the right safe checks in place to stop charging at 100%, and it just keeps trying to push 3 amps even when fully charged (could be wrong about that though)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mmm.. the phone was charging from almost nothing... I think I was charging it from about 20% using a zuk z1 cable plugged into my computer that was connected to a usb 3.0 port. the cable is 3.0 standard and the phone is 3.1 if I rememeber

ive just added images into the original post

guyverzero said:
Think it ended up being that the 10 doesn't have the right safe checks in place to stop charging at 100%, and it just keeps trying to push 3 amps even when fully charged (could be wrong about that though)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't Push Amps, you pull em, you Push Voltage.
The phone decides how much amps it wants to draw.
More likely missing cables inside the cable or bad quality Connector.
Was it an original Microsoft Cable from the 950 or bought afterwards?
P.S can't see the pictures. Just my bad Internet?

Haldi4803 said:
You don't Push Amps, you pull em, you Push Voltage.
The phone decides how much amps it wants to draw.
More likely missing cables inside the cable or bad quality Connector.
Was it an original Microsoft Cable from the 950 or bought afterwards?
P.S can't see the pictures. Just my bad Internet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I cant see the photos either

_-..zKiLLA..-_ said:
I cant see the photos either
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
doesn't appear the image tag correctly grabbed the microsoft drive images so i deleted the image format. Downside is you can't see them inline.. but the upside is you can click them to see em..

Read here...
..and follow the links at the bottom.

UPDATE: ok so, I've taken it back to the place I brought it from and they sent it to the repair centre (carphone warehouse). They've turned round and said tis water damage but I disagree as I do not like to keep my gadgets in places that are potential for issues. Will be taking it up with the shop. failing that, Trading Standards.
CAN SOMEONE HELP ME; does water corrosion look similar to that of corrosion caused by excessive current or connection shorting?

I had a ps4 controller do the same thing. it was cause by the cable was not 100% plugged into the controller port. it was still able to charge a bit but after awhile I noticed a burning smell... same results

Intraducinmista said:
UPDATE: ok so, I've taken it back to the place I brought it from and they sent it to the repair centre (carphone warehouse). They've turned round and said tis water damage but I disagree as I do not like to keep my gadgets in places that are potential for issues. Will be taking it up with the shop. failing that, Trading Standards.
CAN SOMEONE HELP ME; does water corrosion look similar to that of corrosion caused by excessive current or connection shorting?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would be looking for blue oxidation if it was water damage.
Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk

dottat said:
I would be looking for blue oxidation if it was water damage.
Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By any chance green oxidation would indicate electrical corrosion from shorting of the contacts?

QC3.0 cannot exists as TypeC output, also the standard is not supported by USB consortium which developed USB Power Delivery instead.
Benson Leung warned people, that type c to type c charging should be avoided.
Even HTC10 does not follow the official usb specification and uses QC so best any user can do, i using legacy USB type A to type c cable and using charger with USB A output port. Also all cables must have 56k ohm resistor, cheap one come with 11k resistor and could damage power charger or the device. Check Bensons google+, he even linked to Tronsmart chargers which were out of specification and should be avoided.

cavist said:
QC3.0 cannot exists as TypeC output, also the standard is not supported by USB consortium which developed USB Power Delivery instead.
Benson Leung warned people, that type c to type c charging should be avoided.
Even HTC10 does not follow the official usb specification and uses QC so best any user can do, i using legacy USB type A to type c cable and using charger with USB A output port. Also all cables must have 56k ohm resistor, cheap one come with 11k resistor and could damage power charger or the device. Check Bensons google+, he even linked to Tronsmart chargers which were out of specification and should be avoided.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeh, I became aware of this when the QC3.0 was released. Though, my assumption was because I'm connecting between usb type-c to the phones type-c it wouldn't charge off the QC3.0 standard.
Initially, I was using the Nokia type-C charger which came with my Lumia 950XL. It charges at 15 Watts (5V, 3.0A). I had used this the majority of the time and hadn't gone wrong. Sometimes I'd use a portable battery charge which charged at a generic 5V 2A AND a Samsung nexus 10 charger which was a usb female and charged a the same rate.
I would've assumed (also judging from the new releases by QUALCOMM) that QC3.0 phones would either charge of USB standard OR take advantage of QC. I've never used type-c to type-c charging only because I never had the capability. There is a slider in the settings menu to use USB3.1 standard but again, never used it. always done this through a usb3.0 to usb type-c cable.

HTC10 charges normaly from any standard legacy USB port like your old HTC M7 usb wall charger or notebook usb ports. QC3.0 uses data lines in usb cable to provide power and this method is not approved by the USB consortium, thats why you can not also communicate with your phone in QC3.0 mode, because there is no free lines for data left. You can either fast charge, or switch to standard usb mode and transfer files without QC3.0.
USB TypeC standard forbids strictly manouvers over the cable like QC does. For this, the newest Chromebooks and Nexus uses approved USB Power Delivery.
The "problem" was, that Qualcomm is also part of research and development of USB Power Delivery but yet, they in the same time were developing QC3.0. Was it for pure marketing purpose or to fill the gap between USB PD going live, we can not tell.
The only way now to end this confusion is to wait for Qualcomm to switch for USB PD as a successor of QC3.0 because there is really no point of two competing charging standards which one is spec certified and the other is not.

cavist said:
HTC10 charges normaly from any standard legacy USB port like your old HTC M7 usb wall charger or notebook usb ports. QC3.0 uses data lines in usb cable to provide power and this method is not approved by the USB consortium, thats why you can not also communicate with your phone in QC3.0 mode, because there is no free lines for data left. You can either fast charge, or switch to standard usb mode and transfer files without QC3.0.
USB TypeC standard forbids strictly manouvers over the cable like QC does. For this, the newest Chromebooks and Nexus uses approved USB Power Delivery.
The "problem" was, that Qualcomm is also part of research and development of USB Power Delivery but yet, they in the same time were developing QC3.0. Was it for pure marketing purpose or to fill the gap between USB PD going live, we can not tell.
The only way now to end this confusion is to wait for Qualcomm to switch for USB PD as a successor of QC3.0 because there is really no point of two competing charging standards which one is spec certified and the other is not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so would this mean I will need to set my phone to file transfer mode if I want to charge from USB?
Also, for reference, is there a way to disable quick charge 3.0 (which I assume may be present in the build.prop file OR am I thinking more noob like)

Intraducinmista said:
so would this mean I will need to set my phone to file transfer mode if I want to charge from USB?
Also, for reference, is there a way to disable quick charge 3.0 (which I assume may be present in the build.prop file OR am I thinking more noob like)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, you must understand how usb and QC3 works. I will try to explain it as simply as I can.
Legacy USB have 4 cables inside, two for data transfer, one for curent and one for ground.
If you plug your phone to the usb in notebook, you can charge and transfer data in the same time.
What QC3.0 does, it is using the data paths for providing additional power, so when you plug it to your QC3 charger, it uses all the data routes/cables in USB only for additional and faster charging, so the data connection is blocked in this mode.

Ok, just came back from Carphone Warehouse. It looks as if the phone has corroded more during the time I've given it to them and the time its taken for it too come back.
The colour of the corrosion was of a greenish hue.

cavist said:
No, you must understand how usb and QC3 works. I will try to explain it as simply as I can.
Legacy USB have 4 cables inside, two for data transfer, one for curent and one for ground.
If you plug your phone to the usb in notebook, you can charge and transfer data in the same time.
What QC3.0 does, it is using the data paths for providing additional power, so when you plug it to your QC3 charger, it uses all the data routes/cables in USB only for additional and faster charging, so the data connection is blocked in this mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm awar eof this, but my question is if it can be disabled on the phone or not.

Never heard of disabling QC. I do not think that HTC will provide any tool to disable built in chipset feature.

USB cable for connecting to PC

I have a fairly old laptop, and it only has the USB A connector on it
Any idea which USB C to USB A data cable I can use to connect Moto Z Play to Windows 7 laptop?
thanks!

animefans said:
I have a fairly old laptop, and it only has the USB A connector on it
Any idea which USB C to USB A data cable I can use to connect Moto Z Play to Windows 7 laptop?
thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't received mine yet but I assume an A to micro plugged into a Micro female to C male adapter will work just fine for charge and xfers. But again, I haven't tested it yet. Both can be had for cheap on ebay.

KrisM22 said:
I haven't received mine yet but I assume an A to mini plugged into a mini to C adapter will work just fine for charge and xfers. But again, I haven't tested it yet. Both can be had for cheap on ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is my first time dealing with USB C cable, but I have read (headline mostly) that USB C cable is pretty picky, and some can even fried the device
If you don't mind, can you let me know your experience with the adapter?
Thanks!

animefans said:
This is my first time dealing with USB C cable, but I have read (headline mostly) that USB C cable is pretty picky, and some can even fried the device
If you don't mind, can you let me know your experience with the adapter?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, my first time with USB-C connector.
1. important change in my first answer - change "mini" to "micro". (I keep confusing the 2 in my speak! I have tons of "A to micro" cables lying around to charge things like my cell phones etc. So I got and ordered adapters which go micro female to C male. I have no idea if they will be problematic.
2. been lazy so finally ordered a couple cables on ebay with description "USB-C 3.1 Type C Male to 3.0 Type A Male Sync Data Charger Fast Charging Cable" - the important thing for me being the 3.0 type A. Even though realistically, I believe we are only using 4 conductors on a regular-speed power charge or data xfer. But the high speed charge probably uses more, but that's a separate cable attached to the wall wart charger.
3. as to them frying things , i googled and found many many many reports about that one incident. I actually expected more. What you could do to minimize this is eyeball connectors before you plug them in, and possibly shut phone off (and unplug charger) and plug C connector in to phone just to make sure it slides in easily. I believe the only USB connectors I have ever had problems with were very recent: micro male attached to the end of some cheap 10-20$ "endoscopes". Really had problem getting them in to my Moto G3, but no shorts.
Lightening can strike anywhere and anytime. We can just do our best to be careful!
Certainly I'll let you know my experience though I have yet to see the phone hit the post office.

KrisM22 said:
Yes, my first time with USB-C connector.
1. important change in my first answer - change "mini" to "micro". (I keep confusing the 2 in my speak! I have tons of "A to micro" cables lying around to charge things like my cell phones etc. So I got and ordered adapters which go micro female to C male. I have no idea if they will be problematic.
2. been lazy so finally ordered a couple cables on ebay with description "USB-C 3.1 Type C Male to 3.0 Type A Male Sync Data Charger Fast Charging Cable" - the important thing for me being the 3.0 type A. Even though realistically, I believe we are only using 4 conductors on a regular-speed power charge or data xfer. But the high speed charge probably uses more, but that's a separate cable attached to the wall wart charger.
3. as to them frying things , i googled and found many many many reports about that one incident. I actually expected more. What you could do to minimize this is eyeball connectors before you plug them in, and possibly shut phone off (and unplug charger) and plug C connector in to phone just to make sure it slides in easily. I believe the only USB connectors I have ever had problems with were very recent: micro male attached to the end of some cheap 10-20$ "endoscopes". Really had problem getting them in to my Moto G3, but no shorts.
Lightening can strike anywhere and anytime. We can just do our best to be careful!
Certainly I'll let you know my experience though I have yet to see the phone hit the post office.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for sharing your perspective on this topic!
I will also do my own research as well, and see what I learn
It might not be as bad as I think/perceive!

animefans said:
Thanks for sharing your perspective on this topic!
I will also do my own research as well, and see what I learn
It might not be as bad as I think/perceive!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the unit and have done a ton of plugging/un- and though I notice the connection is slightly stiff, I have noticed no problems with the USB-C.

KrisM22 said:
I have the unit and have done a ton of plugging/un- and though I notice the connection is slightly stiff, I have noticed no problems with the USB-C.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not do very thorough reading, but from what I gather, the issue with USB-C is the potential for USB-C device (maybe 3 amps) to pull more current than the USB-A port can supply (most likely 2 amps), thus frying the USB-A port
A USB-C to USB-A cable that has 56 ohm resistor will avoid this issue by forcing the client (usb C device) to draw as much power as the host (usb A port) can supply
Here are the pages that I read on this topic
https://www.androidauthority.com/best-usb-type-c-cables-682801/
https://www.extremetech.com/computi...-and-other-usb-devices-as-quickly-as-possible
https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/how-to-find-safe-usb-type-c-cables

animefans said:
I have not do very thorough reading, but from what I gather, the issue with USB-C is the potential for USB-C device (maybe 3 amps) to pull more current than the USB-A port can supply (most likely 2 amps), thus frying the USB-A port
A USB-C to USB-A cable that has 56 ohm resistor will avoid this issue by forcing the client (usb C device) to draw as much power as the host (usb A port) can supply
Here are the pages that I read on this topic
https://www.androidauthority.com/best-usb-type-c-cables-682801/
https://www.extremetech.com/computi...-and-other-usb-devices-as-quickly-as-possible
https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/how-to-find-safe-usb-type-c-cables
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this. A close read of that indicates to me that there is going to be a ton of arguing over what is safe, and some burnt out 5v power rails in some, especially older, computers.
The mention of 56Kohm resister in cables has caused some cable sellers to advertise that, but having that, in and of itself, I believe doesn't do anything - you need load balancing circuitry in both the phone AND the charger to utilize it.
I read this quote with amusement "A good cable uses a deep-draw extrusion method that produces a Type C plug that is a single piece of metal and does not have a visible seam on one side of the plug,". My phone came with a factory Motorola hi speed charger that is rated for 5v 3a (15w), and it's C plug has just such a "bad" seam. So many people make such blanket statements that simply are not true.
I looked at one of my wall-wart chargers(this particular one is stamped Samsung) and it is rated at 5v, 0.7a (3.5w), so it's a good bet that if I plug my old A to micro to micro-to-C adapter to phone, that nothing bad will happen. Another one (Moto) rated at .8a. A 3rd one that came with my Moto G3 is rated .55a .
1)So if one goes to ebay and buys a wall wart rated at 5a and uses old cables and adapter to plug it to a Moto Z, what will happen? Dunno!
2) I have had my Moto z plugged very often to my computer with just such an arrangement and have not noticed any "fast charging".
I have a huge 850w PSU in my computer, but that does not mean that all that amperage available on the rail is permitted through the USB connection. Intel offers some ideas and I would bet that most current mobos have such limiting circuitry: I am sure older (than 10 yrs?) do not, or at least not as effective.
http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/whitepapers/power_delivery_motherboards.pdf
The phone also has smart limiting circuitry, but of course I don't know what it is.
Am I more in jeopardy with an old A to micro cable with C adapter, or a new A to C cable. Dunno. Certainly any wall wart should be from the/a phone mfgr, or rated below an amp or so. I don't know if you can make this phone fast charge for 30 min if it's rated for 3a, without an official charger. The remainder of the charge time is governed by the phone to be at a much slower rate.
With this new phone, I have yet to connect it to a wall wart other than for 5 min to the official one just to make sure it worked, and I don't recall any high speed message. It winds up getting a 100% charge just by being plugged into my computer since I am doing file transfers and the like.
As to the plugs themselves, you can run much more amperage through an A (few wide conductors) than a C (many very thin conductors).
A very great deal is being made of this one incident. It is hard for me to understand how a different cable can burn out a computer. You can run 10 amps through any cable (though it will get more than a tad warm!), but amps in a cable is not a problem. It's the governor, or lack thereof, in the source (wall wart or computer) and the target (phone or another computer). If the computer presents a short circuit to the cable, something will surely fry, but no device, these days, should ever do that.
A cable (they all are made in China, but there are many factorys there with widely varying QC), with an M stamp on it or not, is still just 4 wires in a sheath. If it is poorly made, or the connectors at the ends are poorly made or poorly attached, there will be trouble.
Okay, that's enough words for this post, but, for sure, this topic will be around forever!
EDIT: C type connectors have been in use on phones for years now. Why have we not heard of any phones destroyed???????

KrisM22 said:
Thanks for this. A close read of that indicates to me that there is going to be a ton of arguing over what is safe, and some burnt out 5v power rails in some, especially older, computers.
The mention of 56Kohm resister in cables has caused some cable sellers to advertise that, but having that, in and of itself, I believe doesn't do anything - you need load balancing circuitry in both the phone AND the charger to utilize it.
I read this quote with amusement "A good cable uses a deep-draw extrusion method that produces a Type C plug that is a single piece of metal and does not have a visible seam on one side of the plug,". My phone came with a factory Motorola hi speed charger that is rated for 5v 3a (15w), and it's C plug has just such a "bad" seam. So many people make such blanket statements that simply are not true.
I looked at one of my wall-wart chargers(this particular one is stamped Samsung) and it is rated at 5v, 0.7a (3.5w), so it's a good bet that if I plug my old A to micro to micro-to-C adapter to phone, that nothing bad will happen. Another one (Moto) rated at .8a. A 3rd one that came with my Moto G3 is rated .55a .
1)So if one goes to ebay and buys a wall wart rated at 5a and uses old cables and adapter to plug it to a Moto Z, what will happen? Dunno!
2) I have had my Moto z plugged very often to my computer with just such an arrangement and have not noticed any "fast charging".
I have a huge 850w PSU in my computer, but that does not mean that all that amperage available on the rail is permitted through the USB connection. Intel offers some ideas and I would bet that most current mobos have such limiting circuitry: I am sure older (than 10 yrs?) do not, or at least not as effective.
http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/whitepapers/power_delivery_motherboards.pdf
The phone also has smart limiting circuitry, but of course I don't know what it is.
Am I more in jeopardy with an old A to micro cable with C adapter, or a new A to C cable. Dunno. Certainly any wall wart should be from the/a phone mfgr, or rated below an amp or so. I don't know if you can make this phone fast charge for 30 min if it's rated for 3a, without an official charger. The remainder of the charge time is governed by the phone to be at a much slower rate.
With this new phone, I have yet to connect it to a wall wart other than for 5 min to the official one just to make sure it worked, and I don't recall any high speed message. It winds up getting a 100% charge just by being plugged into my computer since I am doing file transfers and the like.
As to the plugs themselves, you can run much more amperage through an A (few wide conductors) than a C (many very thin conductors).
A very great deal is being made of this one incident. It is hard for me to understand how a different cable can burn out a computer. You can run 10 amps through any cable (though it will get more than a tad warm!), but amps in a cable is not a problem. It's the governor, or lack thereof, in the source (wall wart or computer) and the target (phone or another computer). If the computer presents a short circuit to the cable, something will surely fry, but no device, these days, should ever do that.
A cable (they all are made in China, but there are many factorys there with widely varying QC), with an M stamp on it or not, is still just 4 wires in a sheath. If it is poorly made, or the connectors at the ends are poorly made or poorly attached, there will be trouble.
Okay, that's enough words for this post, but, for sure, this topic will be around forever!
EDIT: C type connectors have been in use on phones for years now. Why have we not heard of any phones destroyed???????
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Certainly a good read, and another perspective on this matter!
I can't argue with anything you said
I am also in no position to offer any additional opinion, since I don't know squat on this topic. My first USB C device
But you do touch on an excellent point: not a whole lot of reported issue with damage related to USB C.
As statistics goes, 1 sample is not representitive
It is a data point, and that's a fact, but you can't draw solid conclusion from 1 incident

animefans said:
Certainly a good read, and another perspective on this matter!
I can't argue with anything you said
I am also in no position to offer any additional opinion, since I don't know squat on this topic. My first USB C device
But you do touch on an excellent point: not a whole lot of reported issue with damage related to USB C.
As statistics goes, 1 sample is not representitive
It is a data point, and that's a fact, but you can't draw solid conclusion from 1 incident
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the other hand I will try to get a 4-5' cable that supposedly has 56Kohm resisters in it...

KrisM22 said:
On the other hand I will try to get a 4-5' cable that supposedly has 56Kohm resisters in it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For science?

animefans said:
For science?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually for possible protection of my old wall warts. If I understand correctly, using a 56Kohm cable keeps current low (slow charge). I'd hate to think what my wall wart would look like it my Moto z tried to pull 3 amps out of it!!!
EDIT - It also just seems a prudent thing to do...
Do you have any preferences?
I just ordered these on ebay: "USB C Cable (2-Pack 6ft) Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable with 56k Ohm Pul"