Develop Bugs

speed up usb charge?

Im a long time lurker, and been following alot of posts... let me just say that you guys really are geniuses...this is day 2 of having my tmobile tp2.. and i been reading your forums since yesterday morning non stop....
If you have the time im interested in this...
1- i seen a post on speeding up the time your usb charges your tp2. But didnt see the cab or the reg edit string.. if there is one... is there?
2- info for adding items, or removing "call history" from home screen? maybe replacing with more comon things like messaging...
3- any way to constantly keep a stock listed in the tf stock tab? instead of always having tgo type in the same stock?
4- i just bought tt6 for an older phone...obviously it wont work with tp2. and i dont want to pay $ for a new program. i spent it all on teh phone..
does WVGAFIX3 work? or any other programs top change res before starting TT6?
5- with out downloading or running programs.. when on homescreen, "camera" and "allpeople" are always on the bottom green bar.. can i replace them with somethign more usefull?
seriously....you guys are awesome...

Would also like to know how to speed up USB charging. Think i read somewhere you get 1000mah per hour with the charger and 500mah with USB charging.

yeah, home charger that came with the device is rated on the make as 1A, or 1000mah... and i do know that usb is 500mah.. or .5a standard..
but when using my tp2 while connected to usb, it sometimes gets a pop up message saying charge supply insufficient...
perhaps cable doesnt fit well in the phone? either way, usb charging is very slow...

USB ports on a computer cannot output more then 500Mah. this has nothing to do with the phone.
the Wall charger can only output 1000Mah, again, this has nothing to do with the phone. just the way it is.
if you wanted to charge the battery faster you could get a battery charger for Rccars. you will not get the battery to charge faster through conventional means.
FYI, the fastest you can safely charge the battery in the Tp2 is 1500Mah. (1C) or you will risk damaging the battery and limited recharge cycles.

By any chance are you sharing the same USB port with other devices through a USB hub?

not sharing any other devices on the usb port....
what you say makes sense, and i wouldnt use a charger more then 1000mah... not worth the risk...
MAYBE its all relative since working with it in hand constantly and charging usb wise...
ill actually test mine tomorrow and time how ling it takes to charge usb from 0 to 100%

just a note : current is measured in Amps or milliamps (ma) , mah is milliamp hours and refers to battery capacity. Chargers output ma , not mah.
Getting the insufficient power popup when trying to charge via USB means the computer isn't giving out enough current to the USB. Try using different USB ports... i've known some USB ports are able to give more power on the same computer... depending on what header theyre plugged into on the PC motherboard.

Try to find an original HTC Universal (Imate JasJar etc.) charger. It is rated for 1500ma. I use it once a month for my Touch HD (a somewhat higher amperage recharge can condition a weak battery but it gets pretty hot....so beware!) and I am still using my HD (9 months old) like it is new.
Regards,
Gordo

Hi Loueber,
in regards to point 4 I have used WVGAFIX3 with TT6, it basically swaps you phone to lower resolution leaving a black bar at the bottom of the display. But it does then allow older QVGA apps such ass TT6 to be run.
Hope that helps

This program should take care of you: http://www.nuerom.com/BlogEngine/page/nuePowernueBattery.aspx
without that the USB hub will only power up to 500ma, with that it'll go up to 1000ma like it would off a wall charger.

Not from USB, the wall charger offers a slightly higher voltage, and from that the phone knows it can draw down a higher amperage. The Nuerom power driver will maximize the power you can draw from USB, but it still will not draw over 500ma from USB.
Even if split the four wires from the USB charge cable, and hook power wires up to a 5.1V 1000ma wall charger, and the data wires to your computer it will STILL only draw 500ma. The phone has multiple different safety mechanisms to prevent draw of over 500ma from a USB port.
In short, the only way to charge at faster then 500ma is from a wall charger. Unless somoene hacks the power drivers for the TP2/Rhodium in a way that contravenes the built in safety mechanisms.

I used a female to female usb adapter.. usb to mini-b adapter.. and finally a Y adapter that came with a cheap (10$) SATA-to-USB hard drive enclosure.. It allows the HD to pull max current and not operate in wimpy .5A mode. This is useful for 7200rpm 2.5 inch hds.. but I digress.. One end is data+power, another is power only.. Pull the data plug and the charging light remains constant.. That tells me the TP2 is utilizing power from both sources. The same works for pulling the power-only plug.. I'm tempted to hook up the data port to the wall adapter and test out that 1.5A someone mentioned earlier..
I'll try it out tonight..
btw: I'm currently looking for a program to show me the power input.. So far, tbattery isn't playing nice with my 1% battery driver.

Blades said:
btw: I'm currently looking for a program to show me the power input.. So far, tbattery isn't playing nice with my 1% battery driver.
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Doesn't the previously mentioned nuePower control panel app do it?
There is some misconception on this.
In the USB connector at the phone, there is a pin that if grounded tells the phone to charge at a max of 1 amp. If it is floated, it charges at a max of 500ma. If you go over 500ma, you risk damaging some laptop USB ports, thus the reason for the limit when using a USB cable. The supplied charger grounds that pin and goes up to 1 amp.
So it doesn't matter if you have a 5.1 volt supply, or a 4.9 volt supply, or 1 amp available or 20 amps available. It will charge at 1 amp, or 500 ma. max depending on the charge mode pin.
The pinout that I have calls it pin B. It is the pin next to the ground.
http://www.hardwarebook.info/ExtUSB
I don't recall where I got it, but I have an inline plug that I can insert in the USB plug that has a switch. Flip that switch, and the current goes up to 1 amp from the USB port.

Theres a program called batteryinfo.exe located in \Windows. Its pretty simple.. but it does show the info I need. It does create a log file in \.. Safe to delete whenever (assuming app is closed). So far, I haven't seen anything above 1 amp.. Theres discharge current (how much mA your device is using) and charge current. They usually add up to around 1A.
This NC pin.. if this were grounded by the HTC AC adapter, wouldn't the other end (USB) of the cable have 5 pins?
I have the htc AV connector.. I'm sure that has all the necesary wires in the jacket. I don't want to cut it up yet tho..
It would probably be better to cut up a 'dongle'. I would make an rj45 connector for each row of pins. Once you have some cat5/5e/6 cable to play with, the possibilities are endless..
Any more info on this nc pin?

Which USB cables will allow "fast" charging?

I've been using a mix of old and new USB cables for charging and have noticed that some micro USBs from my Blackberry days will charge the TB but VERY slowly, even using the wall charger.
I want to order some more fast charging USB cables, but how do I identify the difference? What IS the actual difference between the cables?
Thanks!

Usb charging is normally slower than AC wall charging. Most cables are designed exactly the same but some chargers are suited for more amperage per hour. I'd recommend downloading the app -"battery monitor widget" and plugging in your charger and seeing what type of miliamp per hour rating you're getting off of that particular usb port. If the port is in front of the computer, normally those get slightly less voltage than the main ones in the back. Also If you're rooted make sure you aren't on an old outdated kernel that has trickle charge coding thats messed up. I normally get 500-800ma/h based off the AC wall chargers, and anywhere depending on what computer (Work vs Home) USB ports anywhere from like 150-350ma/h. Hope that little tidbit helps.

It is a bit complicted.
When you simply apply power, the Thunderbolt (and most micro USB phone) charges at a slow rate. I have measured this at around 350ma max on the Bolt. This is mainly because the USB port power standard on a PC is 500ma max. They need to stay under that.
By the micro USB standard, if you tie the two USB data lines (D- and D+) together, then the Thunderbolt goes into a fast charge mode. I have seen around 850ma max. You can place a piece of aluminum foil on the charger end (large USB) to short out the two center pins only and switch it to high rate.
Some cables tie the two wires together. Those are fast charge only cables that you can't used for a USB connection. Some chargers tie the two wires together. So they fast charge with any USB cable.
What gets complicated is that of course the charger needs to be capable of about 1 amp for the fast charge to work. AND, some cables use such small wire diameter, that they can't carry the high current rate. I have a couple of cheap cables that even on the fast rate, only carry around 300ma.
AND, if you have time, charge at the low rate. The battery and phone will run cooler, and the battery will last longer. My overnight charger is the lowest rate that I can get by with. But I need to use a super high rate when using the GPS on my motorcycle to keep up with the bright screen and such.

worwig said:
It is a bit complicted.
By the micro USB standard, if you tie the two USB data lines (D- and D+) together, then the Thunderbolt goes into a fast charge mode. I have seen around 850ma max. You can place a piece of aluminum foil on the charger end (large USB) to short out the two center pins only and switch it to high rate.
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Click to collapse
I did this for my CaseMate battery backup and was able to get 800ma charging from it...
If you are just looking for a good car charger, i highly recommend the Motorola Rapid Charger from amazon, they are about $5 shipped. Those charge at the AC "Fast Charge" rate.

converting usb standard to fast-charging
Basically, the cable that came with my tablet, which allowed fast-charging, crapped out. I bought what I thought was the same cable and it still didn't work the right way. In searching through the forums, a a phrase hit me... two-pin fast charging cable. Seeing that, I took a small knife and a pair of needle-nose pliers and extracted the two inner pins( data pins) from he USB side of my cable. The cable, without the data pins, became a dedicated fast-charging cable. I have done this process with three cables so far to see if it was a fluke and every one is capable of fast-charging. I hope anybody that has been hitting the wall on this, reads this, because I was getting very frustrated with the convulated answers some people were giving to address this (especially from Munich!). Try it out, you can bury me in ashes if it doesn't work for you!!!

It's not the cable, it's the brick you're using. My nexus 7 charging brick has a higher output than my tbolt brick, so I use my n7's to charge it in a fraction of the time. Never rely on your computer's usb port to charge your device especially if it's your daily driver

Combo USB wall receptacle, 700mA or 2.1mA?

I was thinking about putting a new receptacle with USB and one outlet somewhere on my kitchen counter. Problem is the two better companies have two very different amperage's. Cooper is .7a and Leviton is 2.1a, both have two USB ports and one outlet. The charger for our E4GT is 1a and I also have a Galaxy Tab 10.1 that would need the higher amp version, but many have said to NOT use a higher amp charger than the one our phones came with, which is 1.
So what do you think? Is it really that bad for our phones/battery to charge it using a higher amp source? I know our charger cube is small but I also need it in various locations at home or at the office so having an outlet like this in my kitchen would be awesome.
I hate how slow USB charges our phones, so I assume .7 would still be kinda slow and not charge my tablet either.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7740W-K-Combination/dp/B007NC5GI4
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5630...F8&qid=1350409796&sr=1-1&keywords=leviton+usb

My vote is for the 700. It will be better for your batteries over time.

Interesting thing that I have learned is that the Leviton version only pushes the higher amps on one of the USB ports. There is no where that states how much the one that gets less does though and I have read that if you plug in a device that does not need the extra amps that USB somehow puts out less amps and it charges slower.
I need to do more investigating though.

revamper said:
My vote is for the 700. It will be better for your batteries over time.
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I agree to an extent.
I feel that it really depends on how long you keep your usb charged devices. Battery degradation may not be an issue if you upgrade often or are the type that never has anything older than the 2nd, sometimes 3rd, newest model device on the market. Also, a lot of the newer devices require higher amps to charge at a reasonable time. This transitions into charging habits. On the 0.7A charger, you may find yourself leaving devices on chargers over night potentially hours longer after fully charging. This is arguably also damaging to the battery.
Either way you go, you may find yourself with a bunch of 6' microUSB cables from devices taking forever to charge or battery degradation. :silly:

Your phone is only going to use as many amps as it can. Say a GS2 charges at 450ma USB and 650ma AC. The phone will recognize if its USB or ac and allow it to charge according to that. Its not going to charge faster on a 1a charger unless you root your phone and hack those parameters. Doing that is what will cause battery life problems, if not cause a complete failure of the battery and/or the device.. The higher you you set the charging amperage, the more likely you are to have problems.
And phones now (especially any model of GS2) have circuitry to prevent overcharging. Leaving your phone charging overnight is not going to cause any problems.
I don't know if USB wall outlets act like USB or a/c (think about a USB cable with a wall adapter) but plugging into the USB outlet and checking in the battery info in the settings menu or a battery app can tell you.
Sent from my SGH-I777

What's next wireless charger outlets?

Get the higher-amperage Leviton.
Your device will only draw the amps it needs. The GS2 will draw < 1amp. But if you have a big tablet, they can pull the full 2.1 amps.
Since you're doing a 'permanent' wall installation, you're somewhat future-proofing yourself.

Good info, thanks all. I did not know that our phone will only pull the amps it needs, so that is good to know. I may get the higher amp version because I have a Galaxy Tab 10.1 that needs higher amperage.

Car Tablet Install Not Charging Consistently.

As the title I'm having problems charging. A lot of the time the battery is discharging and requires being charged inside, where it does charge consistent and fast!
I the car I have a 10amp 5v dc/dc converter providing the power, I have the thick cable OTG from amazon, along with Amazon basic USB cable extensions, and a 4 port hub.
I've used different chargers, even dual chargers with a USB hub that had independent power, I changed the OTG cable, Heck I even changed TABLETS! From a Wi-Fi to an LTE. The only common thread is the backup camera and Timur's kernel.
Considering it charges perfectly plugged into a wall I assume it's not the kernel.
I've seen at least one other with this issue, Any ideas? I've been playing with this for months and as mentioned have changed every aspect of the install except the camera.

fr4nk1yn said:
As the title I'm having problems charging. A lot of the time the battery is discharging and requires being charged inside, where it does charge consistent and fast! I the car I have a 10amp 5v dc/dc converter providing the power, ...
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These car chargers supply perfect 5.0V while your original Asus AC charger delivers 5.2V (have a look at its specs). Believe it or not, 0.2V makes the difference, and at 5.0V your tablet will not charge reliably. I actually use a regulated PSU set higher, at 5.3V, to compensate for voltage drop on poor USB cables.
Look for 5.2V/2A car charger and use max 1m quality USB cable, no hubs.

Thanks. The charger is indeed 5.2v. Odd. What charger are you using?
This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Re...1513386282&sr=8-8&keywords=dc+to+dc+converter and it puts out 5.1v
I found it was only getting 8v-10.5v and wired it directly to the car's wiring, I was using spades previously to connct to the Aux power connector, Getting full 14.2v made no difference to the tablet's charging.
Next I removed the tablet and plugged it into a 5v/2amp wall charger using the old OTG and the old 3 foot USB extension cable. It charges consistently between 580 - 740mA. Meanwhile it went dead installed in the dash, again.

fr4nk1yn said:
This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Re...1513386282&sr=8-8&keywords=dc+to+dc+converter and it puts out 5.1v.... Meanwhile it went dead installed in the dash, again.
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Click to collapse
To diagnose this problem you will have to acquire a simple, cheap USB meter and connect it as close as possible to N7. Note on the attachment my N7, 15cm USB cable and a tester measuring 5.18V. Please post your voltage reading.

I bought a 3amp adjustable DC to DC converter.
Set the voltage to 5.3v initially, then measured at the end of my 1 meter USB extension cable. It was still 5.3 so I dropped it back to 5.2v.
Plugged the tablet in, and it's immediately discharging at 563mAh. No apparent change after some use.

Thanks @k23m for the help. This thing just deteriorated. Something pulling a huge amount of power too. Sucked a fully charged battery to 0 in a day of of running errands. And it was sluggish beyond belief. I thought the ROM might be corrupt.
So I did the battery removal mod. It's working great on the bench so it's being wired up tomorrow. Thanks again.

USB cable for connecting to PC

I have a fairly old laptop, and it only has the USB A connector on it
Any idea which USB C to USB A data cable I can use to connect Moto Z Play to Windows 7 laptop?
thanks!

animefans said:
I have a fairly old laptop, and it only has the USB A connector on it
Any idea which USB C to USB A data cable I can use to connect Moto Z Play to Windows 7 laptop?
thanks!
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I haven't received mine yet but I assume an A to micro plugged into a Micro female to C male adapter will work just fine for charge and xfers. But again, I haven't tested it yet. Both can be had for cheap on ebay.

KrisM22 said:
I haven't received mine yet but I assume an A to mini plugged into a mini to C adapter will work just fine for charge and xfers. But again, I haven't tested it yet. Both can be had for cheap on ebay.
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This is my first time dealing with USB C cable, but I have read (headline mostly) that USB C cable is pretty picky, and some can even fried the device
If you don't mind, can you let me know your experience with the adapter?
Thanks!

animefans said:
This is my first time dealing with USB C cable, but I have read (headline mostly) that USB C cable is pretty picky, and some can even fried the device
If you don't mind, can you let me know your experience with the adapter?
Thanks!
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Yes, my first time with USB-C connector.
1. important change in my first answer - change "mini" to "micro". (I keep confusing the 2 in my speak! I have tons of "A to micro" cables lying around to charge things like my cell phones etc. So I got and ordered adapters which go micro female to C male. I have no idea if they will be problematic.
2. been lazy so finally ordered a couple cables on ebay with description "USB-C 3.1 Type C Male to 3.0 Type A Male Sync Data Charger Fast Charging Cable" - the important thing for me being the 3.0 type A. Even though realistically, I believe we are only using 4 conductors on a regular-speed power charge or data xfer. But the high speed charge probably uses more, but that's a separate cable attached to the wall wart charger.
3. as to them frying things , i googled and found many many many reports about that one incident. I actually expected more. What you could do to minimize this is eyeball connectors before you plug them in, and possibly shut phone off (and unplug charger) and plug C connector in to phone just to make sure it slides in easily. I believe the only USB connectors I have ever had problems with were very recent: micro male attached to the end of some cheap 10-20$ "endoscopes". Really had problem getting them in to my Moto G3, but no shorts.
Lightening can strike anywhere and anytime. We can just do our best to be careful!
Certainly I'll let you know my experience though I have yet to see the phone hit the post office.

KrisM22 said:
Yes, my first time with USB-C connector.
1. important change in my first answer - change "mini" to "micro". (I keep confusing the 2 in my speak! I have tons of "A to micro" cables lying around to charge things like my cell phones etc. So I got and ordered adapters which go micro female to C male. I have no idea if they will be problematic.
2. been lazy so finally ordered a couple cables on ebay with description "USB-C 3.1 Type C Male to 3.0 Type A Male Sync Data Charger Fast Charging Cable" - the important thing for me being the 3.0 type A. Even though realistically, I believe we are only using 4 conductors on a regular-speed power charge or data xfer. But the high speed charge probably uses more, but that's a separate cable attached to the wall wart charger.
3. as to them frying things , i googled and found many many many reports about that one incident. I actually expected more. What you could do to minimize this is eyeball connectors before you plug them in, and possibly shut phone off (and unplug charger) and plug C connector in to phone just to make sure it slides in easily. I believe the only USB connectors I have ever had problems with were very recent: micro male attached to the end of some cheap 10-20$ "endoscopes". Really had problem getting them in to my Moto G3, but no shorts.
Lightening can strike anywhere and anytime. We can just do our best to be careful!
Certainly I'll let you know my experience though I have yet to see the phone hit the post office.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for sharing your perspective on this topic!
I will also do my own research as well, and see what I learn
It might not be as bad as I think/perceive!

animefans said:
Thanks for sharing your perspective on this topic!
I will also do my own research as well, and see what I learn
It might not be as bad as I think/perceive!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the unit and have done a ton of plugging/un- and though I notice the connection is slightly stiff, I have noticed no problems with the USB-C.

KrisM22 said:
I have the unit and have done a ton of plugging/un- and though I notice the connection is slightly stiff, I have noticed no problems with the USB-C.
Click to expand...
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I have not do very thorough reading, but from what I gather, the issue with USB-C is the potential for USB-C device (maybe 3 amps) to pull more current than the USB-A port can supply (most likely 2 amps), thus frying the USB-A port
A USB-C to USB-A cable that has 56 ohm resistor will avoid this issue by forcing the client (usb C device) to draw as much power as the host (usb A port) can supply
Here are the pages that I read on this topic
https://www.androidauthority.com/best-usb-type-c-cables-682801/
https://www.extremetech.com/computi...-and-other-usb-devices-as-quickly-as-possible
https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/how-to-find-safe-usb-type-c-cables

animefans said:
I have not do very thorough reading, but from what I gather, the issue with USB-C is the potential for USB-C device (maybe 3 amps) to pull more current than the USB-A port can supply (most likely 2 amps), thus frying the USB-A port
A USB-C to USB-A cable that has 56 ohm resistor will avoid this issue by forcing the client (usb C device) to draw as much power as the host (usb A port) can supply
Here are the pages that I read on this topic
https://www.androidauthority.com/best-usb-type-c-cables-682801/
https://www.extremetech.com/computi...-and-other-usb-devices-as-quickly-as-possible
https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/how-to-find-safe-usb-type-c-cables
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this. A close read of that indicates to me that there is going to be a ton of arguing over what is safe, and some burnt out 5v power rails in some, especially older, computers.
The mention of 56Kohm resister in cables has caused some cable sellers to advertise that, but having that, in and of itself, I believe doesn't do anything - you need load balancing circuitry in both the phone AND the charger to utilize it.
I read this quote with amusement "A good cable uses a deep-draw extrusion method that produces a Type C plug that is a single piece of metal and does not have a visible seam on one side of the plug,". My phone came with a factory Motorola hi speed charger that is rated for 5v 3a (15w), and it's C plug has just such a "bad" seam. So many people make such blanket statements that simply are not true.
I looked at one of my wall-wart chargers(this particular one is stamped Samsung) and it is rated at 5v, 0.7a (3.5w), so it's a good bet that if I plug my old A to micro to micro-to-C adapter to phone, that nothing bad will happen. Another one (Moto) rated at .8a. A 3rd one that came with my Moto G3 is rated .55a .
1)So if one goes to ebay and buys a wall wart rated at 5a and uses old cables and adapter to plug it to a Moto Z, what will happen? Dunno!
2) I have had my Moto z plugged very often to my computer with just such an arrangement and have not noticed any "fast charging".
I have a huge 850w PSU in my computer, but that does not mean that all that amperage available on the rail is permitted through the USB connection. Intel offers some ideas and I would bet that most current mobos have such limiting circuitry: I am sure older (than 10 yrs?) do not, or at least not as effective.
http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/whitepapers/power_delivery_motherboards.pdf
The phone also has smart limiting circuitry, but of course I don't know what it is.
Am I more in jeopardy with an old A to micro cable with C adapter, or a new A to C cable. Dunno. Certainly any wall wart should be from the/a phone mfgr, or rated below an amp or so. I don't know if you can make this phone fast charge for 30 min if it's rated for 3a, without an official charger. The remainder of the charge time is governed by the phone to be at a much slower rate.
With this new phone, I have yet to connect it to a wall wart other than for 5 min to the official one just to make sure it worked, and I don't recall any high speed message. It winds up getting a 100% charge just by being plugged into my computer since I am doing file transfers and the like.
As to the plugs themselves, you can run much more amperage through an A (few wide conductors) than a C (many very thin conductors).
A very great deal is being made of this one incident. It is hard for me to understand how a different cable can burn out a computer. You can run 10 amps through any cable (though it will get more than a tad warm!), but amps in a cable is not a problem. It's the governor, or lack thereof, in the source (wall wart or computer) and the target (phone or another computer). If the computer presents a short circuit to the cable, something will surely fry, but no device, these days, should ever do that.
A cable (they all are made in China, but there are many factorys there with widely varying QC), with an M stamp on it or not, is still just 4 wires in a sheath. If it is poorly made, or the connectors at the ends are poorly made or poorly attached, there will be trouble.
Okay, that's enough words for this post, but, for sure, this topic will be around forever!
EDIT: C type connectors have been in use on phones for years now. Why have we not heard of any phones destroyed???????

KrisM22 said:
Thanks for this. A close read of that indicates to me that there is going to be a ton of arguing over what is safe, and some burnt out 5v power rails in some, especially older, computers.
The mention of 56Kohm resister in cables has caused some cable sellers to advertise that, but having that, in and of itself, I believe doesn't do anything - you need load balancing circuitry in both the phone AND the charger to utilize it.
I read this quote with amusement "A good cable uses a deep-draw extrusion method that produces a Type C plug that is a single piece of metal and does not have a visible seam on one side of the plug,". My phone came with a factory Motorola hi speed charger that is rated for 5v 3a (15w), and it's C plug has just such a "bad" seam. So many people make such blanket statements that simply are not true.
I looked at one of my wall-wart chargers(this particular one is stamped Samsung) and it is rated at 5v, 0.7a (3.5w), so it's a good bet that if I plug my old A to micro to micro-to-C adapter to phone, that nothing bad will happen. Another one (Moto) rated at .8a. A 3rd one that came with my Moto G3 is rated .55a .
1)So if one goes to ebay and buys a wall wart rated at 5a and uses old cables and adapter to plug it to a Moto Z, what will happen? Dunno!
2) I have had my Moto z plugged very often to my computer with just such an arrangement and have not noticed any "fast charging".
I have a huge 850w PSU in my computer, but that does not mean that all that amperage available on the rail is permitted through the USB connection. Intel offers some ideas and I would bet that most current mobos have such limiting circuitry: I am sure older (than 10 yrs?) do not, or at least not as effective.
http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/whitepapers/power_delivery_motherboards.pdf
The phone also has smart limiting circuitry, but of course I don't know what it is.
Am I more in jeopardy with an old A to micro cable with C adapter, or a new A to C cable. Dunno. Certainly any wall wart should be from the/a phone mfgr, or rated below an amp or so. I don't know if you can make this phone fast charge for 30 min if it's rated for 3a, without an official charger. The remainder of the charge time is governed by the phone to be at a much slower rate.
With this new phone, I have yet to connect it to a wall wart other than for 5 min to the official one just to make sure it worked, and I don't recall any high speed message. It winds up getting a 100% charge just by being plugged into my computer since I am doing file transfers and the like.
As to the plugs themselves, you can run much more amperage through an A (few wide conductors) than a C (many very thin conductors).
A very great deal is being made of this one incident. It is hard for me to understand how a different cable can burn out a computer. You can run 10 amps through any cable (though it will get more than a tad warm!), but amps in a cable is not a problem. It's the governor, or lack thereof, in the source (wall wart or computer) and the target (phone or another computer). If the computer presents a short circuit to the cable, something will surely fry, but no device, these days, should ever do that.
A cable (they all are made in China, but there are many factorys there with widely varying QC), with an M stamp on it or not, is still just 4 wires in a sheath. If it is poorly made, or the connectors at the ends are poorly made or poorly attached, there will be trouble.
Okay, that's enough words for this post, but, for sure, this topic will be around forever!
EDIT: C type connectors have been in use on phones for years now. Why have we not heard of any phones destroyed???????
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Certainly a good read, and another perspective on this matter!
I can't argue with anything you said
I am also in no position to offer any additional opinion, since I don't know squat on this topic. My first USB C device
But you do touch on an excellent point: not a whole lot of reported issue with damage related to USB C.
As statistics goes, 1 sample is not representitive
It is a data point, and that's a fact, but you can't draw solid conclusion from 1 incident

animefans said:
Certainly a good read, and another perspective on this matter!
I can't argue with anything you said
I am also in no position to offer any additional opinion, since I don't know squat on this topic. My first USB C device
But you do touch on an excellent point: not a whole lot of reported issue with damage related to USB C.
As statistics goes, 1 sample is not representitive
It is a data point, and that's a fact, but you can't draw solid conclusion from 1 incident
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Click to collapse
On the other hand I will try to get a 4-5' cable that supposedly has 56Kohm resisters in it...

KrisM22 said:
On the other hand I will try to get a 4-5' cable that supposedly has 56Kohm resisters in it...
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For science?

animefans said:
For science?
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Actually for possible protection of my old wall warts. If I understand correctly, using a 56Kohm cable keeps current low (slow charge). I'd hate to think what my wall wart would look like it my Moto z tried to pull 3 amps out of it!!!
EDIT - It also just seems a prudent thing to do...
Do you have any preferences?
I just ordered these on ebay: "USB C Cable (2-Pack 6ft) Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable with 56k Ohm Pul"