Develop Bugs

2 USB into 1 mini USB charger cable?

Anybody tried charging their phone with one of these dual USB-A to one mini USB-B Y cables? They typically come with external 2.5" drive enclosures to provide enough power for the drive. It could be cool for a fast full 1 amp charge via USB when no better charging option is handy, and certainly better than the majority of crapola mis-labled under-powered chargers out there. I just can't afford to be the guinea pig if such a cable uses proprietary pinouts and will fry the phone.

amps are pulled not pushed
Ohm's law == (Amp == Volt / resistence (Ohm) )
so your charger could be 1MegaAmps and your device would only draw as much as
volt being 5volts and the resistence would be what the charging system inside
the phone is which is also a constant
all the wallchargers we use for these devices with usb connectors got plenty more juice then .5amps usb provide

Thanks for the detail. I've never been good at sorting out volts, watts, amps, etc. Regardless, I'm not concerned about it providing too much juice, mainly that it's a proprietary non-spec cable that may use a proprietary pinout. There's a guy on PPCGeeks who successfully & briefly tried a similar cable without ill effects. Waiting on a promised in-depth test to see if it actually charges faster, etc. I'm still a bit chicken to try it as I can't afford to be phoneless right now.

Well, I went ahead & tried it. I loaded nuePowerCPL which showed just under 500 mA, same as a good quality USB cable. Interestingly, a wimpy skinny USB cable delivered only 160 mA. Maybe other PCs will yield better results, but the 2 into 1 cable offers no improvement for me.

I stumbled across a product specifically designed to charge from 2 USB ports:
http://www.ppctechs.com/HTC-Touch-P...l-Sync-USB-Power-Adapter-Y-Cable_1300-440.htm
I doubt it's any different than the portable hard drive cable I tried. I also read that some newer USB implementations can supply more than 500 mA, so those with different/newer motherboards may still benefit from this charging technique. It would be great if others could load nuePowerCPL and report their results.

Have you used 5 in 1 USB cable? The USB cable can transfer data and recharge at same time. I have never used so I am looking for the highest quality possible. Also, I would like to thank you all suggestions.

Rudegar said:
the resistence would be what the charging system inside the phone is which is also a constant
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not strictly true; at least some phones have two charging modes; slow (run from a USB port) and normal (when running from the wall). My Rhodium, for example, draws something like 2A when run from the wall charger. I understand that the wall charger has a slightly higher voltage than the 5v usually seen from a USB cable, and it is through this that the phone knows it can charge in "normal" mode.

Update: It works, just not enough of a difference to get super excited about:
http://forum.ppcgeeks.com/showthread.php?p=1664169#post1664169

[FAQ] Charger mod, howto USB fast charge.

I know this is mostly common knowledge but I still see many questions regarding this come up, so instead of explaining this over and over I can now link to this and flame away.
anyway...
When you charge your phone using an original HTC wall charger you phone gets all the power it needs to run itself and charge (up to 1000ma).
When you charge from any (most) other devices (this includes car chargers,non HTC wall chargers or any USB port) your phone will draw up to 500ma (the USB standard) REGARDLESS of the devices output.
The reason why the phone only draws 500ma on USB is so it does not damage any equipment by drawing more power than it can output safely (by design anything with a USB port can safely output 500ma).
The trouble is pretty much all equipment can safely output more than the USB standard of 500ma and safely charge your phone at full speed.
The phone distinguishes between an original HTC charger and other devices by whether or not the data wires are shorted (connected to each other).
How to do the charger mod.
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for anything that may happen as a result of doing this, by following these instructions you will be pushing any device you charge your phone from beyond the USB specifications, results of this may be, but not limited to your motherboard bursting into flames, you car exploding, the inventor/s of USB knocking on your door and slapping you in the face, but most probably faster charging and not a lot else.
Get yourself a short USB extender wire, male at one end, female at the other.
Cut the wire in half.
Connect the red and black wires up as they were before (or don't cut them in step 1).
On the Female side of the wire connect the green and white wires together.
On the Male side of the wire simply leave the green and white wires connected to nothing.
Insulate the ends of all of the wires with insulating tape.
Tie a knot in the wire so if the wire is pulled the knot is pulled and not the connection you made, it doesn't look pretty but the wire will last a lifetime this way.
All done, now use this wire in between your desire and whatever you want to charge from and get a full speed charge. You will lose data connectivity when using this wire.
There are other ways of doing this, for example.
Soldering together the data pins (middle 2) on the device you wish to charge from. Don't do this on your laptop...this method is intended for car chargers, wall plugs, and external USB battery packs.
Soldering together a male and female USB port and plug directly with no wire in between, this can look really good if you know what your doing.

Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?

ste1164 said:
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a 3rd party changer and I did this mod and it's working really great it's charging really fast

ste1164 said:
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The original charger shorts the data pins so it doesn't matter what cable you use.

Hi,
just wanted to say thank you for the idea. For me this is really usefull in some situations at work, where I have no access to a socket, but a pc.
It charges not as fast as the AC charger, but MUCH faster, than the usual 500mah USB method.
And so does it look like:
fileden.com/files/2006/9/25/238757/charger2.jpg
fileden.com/files/2006/9/25/238757/charger1.jpg

TrTech said:
just wanted to say thank you for the idea. For me this is really usefull in some situations at work, where I have no access to a socket, but a pc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And next time, use your brain first, please.
Do you have an idea why the HTC Desire does limit the current to 500mA if it's not connected to a dedicated charger which shorts the two data pins? Ever thought about it? Ever?

Umm... yes. But please feel free to enlight me.

TrTech said:
Umm... yes. But please feel free to enlight me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
umm, and I thought the post starter already answered this question:
The reason why the phone only draws 500ma on USB is so it does not damage any equipment by drawing more power than it can output safely (by design anything with a USB port can safely output 500ma).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So in other words:
Any laptop or computer can output max. 500mA by USB specifications.
So this means:
You can have luck and your computer doesn't get damaged if more current gets requested, it just limits the current to something around 500mA.
You can have luck and your computer just shuts down the USB port and Windows reports you that a malfunction device got connected.
You can have bad luck, most often the case, especially on cheap notebooks, netbooks, computers, a fuse will prevent bigger damage and the USB port remains dead until the rest of it's computer live.
So the limit got wisely chosen. So if you want to use your USB ports in the future, too, then only use this 'trick' on wall adapters which support an output current equal or larger than 1A (1000mA), or use it only in combination with USB ports which support that high currents (most often advertised as being able to charge the Apple IPad), most often found on external USB hubs.

UpSpin said:
umm, and I thought the post starter already answered this question
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Me too. Its all written in the first post and I'm doing it on my own risk. Still wondering about your raging post.
I will update this, as soon as the first pc was fried.

TrTech said:
Me too. Its all written in the first post and I'm doing it on my own risk. Still wondering about your raging post.
I will update this, as soon as the first pc was fried.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was that 'unfriendly' because other people will do the same, because person xy said that it works. Then they fry their mainboard or notebook and complain.
I also don't understand why anyone risks damaging intentionally its computer or parts of it, especially if there's absolutely no need for it, e.g. just let it charge in USB mode, or take a small charger with you, or at least use two USB ports to separate the load.
But well, maybe some people don't have to take care of their computer.

This is an interesting thread. I have a Pebble charger and it literally takes four hours to charge my 1400mAh from ~0% to 100%, now my question is, will this damage my Pebble charger shorting the two wires to draw a greater current from the unit?
Overheating, melting and explosions are something I am looking to avoid.

I have yet to find a device that has been damaged doing this. I have personally tried this on a ps3, Xbox wii, 4 laptops 2 desktops, car radio,car charger and a sky+ box.

Kalavere said:
This is an interesting thread. I have a Pebble charger and it literally takes four hours to charge my 1400mAh from ~0% to 100%, now my question is, will this damage my Pebble charger shorting the two wires to draw a greater current from the unit?
Overheating, melting and explosions are something I am looking to avoid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try this? I too have a Pebble and would be interested to know if I have just 30 minutes to plug it in, can I charge quicker.
Also, did the guys PC blow up? He said he would come back!?!? Maybe it did and he's in hospital still Dangerous things USB ports...

thanks for this ! I go to try this

MM i have an interesting one (which i still dont get)
i have a pebble charger
with OEM HTC Micro USB charger cable
and Pebble charger
plug phone into OEM micro USB charger to phone (phone says Power AC) yeh thats right
OEM Micro USB to computer (chargin USB)
So far so good
Pebble charger OEM USB to phone (chargin USB)
Pebble Cable charger to phone ( Power AC)
why are the OEM and Pebble charger cables different?
Sorry if i am posting in the wrong area but the topics seem pretty similar to me =P

to put my 2pence in, i've just done this but slightly different than the OP method..
i bought the belkin car charger, gives 1amp, but is detected as 'USB', not 'AC' charging mode, so my phone only charges upto 500ma which isnt enough (in reality it doesnt charge when i have GPS & max screen brightness).
instead of modding a USB cable (unable to use for data) or buying extra kit (money/ordering/going out) i pulled a strand of wire from a spare mains cable i had, threaded it through the 2 center pins on the belkin charger and then twisted the wire together.
USB cable is slightly tighter in the socket now, but still removable and keeps everything nice and tidy.... and more to the point; cheap!
poor shown from belkin; 'USB charger' mode in a car! like it would ever have data connection to the 12v socket.
hope that helps someone!

USB cable to quick-charge an HTC smartphone
Check http://winhlp.com/node/855 for some more details and photos of a USB cable modification.

Does this mod change the detection of car mode
Hi,
I have just started flashing a couple of roms and noticed that when using my desire with my car charger (1amp rated) it does not charge when doing navigation. looking on battery widget I get a max 289mw on car charge and it is showing as a USB charge. Flashed back to stock and now the car charger shows up as ac connected rather than USB. This does solve the discharging on navigation issue but I would like to run Gingerbread.
my question is...
Will this mod stop the Desire detecting and automatically entering car mode when it is plugged in? Anyone done it to their car charger?
Ta

Yes
The cable modification (shorting the data lines 2 and 3, instructions at http://winhlp.com/node/855 ) will switch any HTC smartphone into AC charging mode.
But I am totally stumped as to why you can achieve AC charging mode without this mod. I know of no other way the HTC phone could detect a car USB charger. I'm tempted to ask you to repeat the test.
If anybody here has any idea, please respond. To the best of my knowledge no USB device is allowed to pull more than 0.5 A from USB power, lest the power source switch off according to the USB specification. The only exception is that the device gets positive information that it is connected to a charger that can deliver a higher current, and for HTC devices that is signalled by a shortcut between the two data lines.

Thank you. I would rather not check again I did look for a while. Reverted back to stock for now.
It is a Huawei curly lead car charger with a 1a rating. The strangest thing is that with my stock Vodafone rom it detects as AC power on battery widget but on both leedroid and RCMix it shows up as a USB charge and I get the power issue. On all three roms it detects car mode correctly (Which is good!).
I was just wondering if the mod would also break the car mode detection?
I can't find anything on how car mode is detected!

Tablet burning out chargers?

Is it possible for the Nexus 7 to burn out chargers and cables? I've never known of a device to do this but my daughter's tablet has burned through at least chargers and cables in about the past six months. Each time the charger stops working on her tablet, it also no longer chargers any other Android device. I'm not quite sure what's going on here.

macschwag14 said:
Is it possible for the Nexus 7 to burn out chargers and cables? I've never known of a device to do this but my daughter's tablet has burned through at least chargers and cables in about the past six months. Each time the charger stops working on her tablet, it also no longer chargers any other Android device. I'm not quite sure what's going on here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A permanent N7 fault can damage poorly designed chargers but not cables. As the problem is intermittent and both cables and chargers fail, it is most likely that N7 is used while being charged. Constant bending and twisting results in a cable short circuit which also damages the charger.

Might also be a short in the mini USB connector on the tablet.
You might want to try wireless charging and avoid using the port entirely.

ssenemosewa said:
Might also be a short in the mini USB connector on the tablet
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is actually a micro USB connector - what could be occasionally shorting there? But more importantly, is it possible for a short in the connector to repeatedly burn out USB cables (the OP's question)?
Let's check it out. I experimented on the weakest USB cable I could find - from a wired mouse, which is very thin because normally it needs to carry only a few mA of power supply current. I cut a single wire strand from the red, power, multi-strand cable (#1) and connected it to a regulated 3A power supply (#2). At 2A it was slightly warm, at 3A it was warm (#3). I suppose it would burn out at 5A and let's assume that 2A is the max safe current. As the red wire has 7 strands, then the max safe current is 14A and projected burn out current is 35A.
The 2m long cable has power path resistance of around 1ohm, so the max possible current from a 5V source is only 5A - well below the safe limit. A 1m long cable, shorted at the N7 USB connector could deliver max 10A - still below the safe, really conservative 14A cable limit. And we are talking about a lousy USB cable from a wired mouse - you can double the limits for quality USB power cables.
Can you see the implications? It does not matter how powerful the charger is because the cable's internal resistance prevents it from burning out - EVER (@5V of course).
Can you imagine what 10A current could do to a shorted N7 connector? The heat and smoke would surely be reported by the OP.
Finally, the original N7 charger delivers below 2A and most cheap replacements below 1A anyway.

k23m said:
It is actually a micro USB connector
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True. My bad. Was typing quickly.
k23m said:
what could be occasionally shorting there? But more importantly, is it possible for a short in the connector to repeatedly burn out USB cables (the OP's question)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, the OP's question was "Is it possible for the Nexus 7 to burn out chargers and cables?"
Your analysis of the heating of USB cables, while interesting, isn't really applicable here. I'm betting that it's the chargers that are being overloaded and burned out. I'm also betting that the connector on the tablet is damaged and might be damaging the connector of any cable pushed into it.
k23m said:
what could be occasionally shorting there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had this exact problem with a Lenovo tablet. The pins on the connector got bent out of shape and burned up several chargers until I discovered it. I messed up the connectors on a few cables as well.
That's why I specifically searched for and purchased a tablet that offers wireless charging capability. Those Micro USB connectors are quite fragile and easy to break. The less use they get, the better.

I've charged my nexus 7 wirelessly since day one. Wireless chargers can be found for cheap, certainly cheaper than the combined cost of your burned out cables.
In my two years of owning the tablet, I've physically plugged it in maybe three times. Usually if I'm traveling and didn't feel like packing the wireless charger and opted to just use my phone charger instead.

[ALERT] TYPE-C PORT and TWO accessories FRIED

So I was charging my phone like usual. And I was slightly aware that there was a compatibility issue between QC 3.0 and Type-C.
HOWEVER, tonight at about 12amish GMT. I kept smelling a burning smell... Which I thought it was my cat. but then when I decided to charge my phone using my Lumia 950 XL charger. I discovered the port had been burnt, and the cape and phone where burning ****ing hot! I felt the type-c plug from the charge against my top-lip and I got burnt...
I'm writing this a bit panic-y as I want everyone to just know TO BE CAREFUL. I'm not sure what exactly caused this as I have looked after the phone as if its my baby. Always case and a screen protector. I have a feeling this is down to compatibility!?
Anyone with similar issues, suggestions or such?
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https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4dEOhDELm2LCQO9qw
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4dCeGjVRobJ69E9VQ
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4dD-I6Fz_tNorEnRw
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4dBqVqPnnW6UgdktA
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4dAaR9KAmgBnUMaHw
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4c_KkbOCCaR4HbF3g
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4c-CX3xqnj2JjtoBA
https://1drv.ms/i/s!ApgIOc0kRR7Sl4c7inelDdbl20y7ug

Intraducinmista said:
So I was charging my phone like usual. And I was slightly aware that there was a compatibility issue between QC 3.0 and Type-C.
HOWEVER, tonight at about 12amish GMT. I kept smelling a burning smell... Which I thought it was my cat. but then when I decided to charge my phone using my Lumia 950 XL charger. I discovered the port had been burnt, and the cape and phone where burning ****ing hot! I felt the type-c plug from the charge against my top-lip and I got burnt...
I'm writing this a bit panic-y as I want everyone to just know TO BE CAREFUL. I'm not sure what exactly caused this as I have looked after the phone as if its my baby. Always case and a screen protector. I have a feeling this is down to compatibility!?
Anyone with similar issues, suggestions or such?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Lumia is c to c right? If so, yeah there were lots of reported issues where people used various c to c cables with a c brick (most were pixel or nexus chargers that I saw) that had the same issues you did. Think it ended up being that the 10 doesn't have the right safe checks in place to stop charging at 100%, and it just keeps trying to push 3 amps even when fully charged (could be wrong about that though)

guyverzero said:
The Lumia is c to c right? If so, yeah there were lots of reported issues where people used various c to c cables with a c brick (most were pixel or nexus chargers that I saw) that had the same issues you did. Think it ended up being that the 10 doesn't have the right safe checks in place to stop charging at 100%, and it just keeps trying to push 3 amps even when fully charged (could be wrong about that though)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mmm.. the phone was charging from almost nothing... I think I was charging it from about 20% using a zuk z1 cable plugged into my computer that was connected to a usb 3.0 port. the cable is 3.0 standard and the phone is 3.1 if I rememeber

ive just added images into the original post

guyverzero said:
Think it ended up being that the 10 doesn't have the right safe checks in place to stop charging at 100%, and it just keeps trying to push 3 amps even when fully charged (could be wrong about that though)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't Push Amps, you pull em, you Push Voltage.
The phone decides how much amps it wants to draw.
More likely missing cables inside the cable or bad quality Connector.
Was it an original Microsoft Cable from the 950 or bought afterwards?
P.S can't see the pictures. Just my bad Internet?

Haldi4803 said:
You don't Push Amps, you pull em, you Push Voltage.
The phone decides how much amps it wants to draw.
More likely missing cables inside the cable or bad quality Connector.
Was it an original Microsoft Cable from the 950 or bought afterwards?
P.S can't see the pictures. Just my bad Internet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I cant see the photos either

_-..zKiLLA..-_ said:
I cant see the photos either
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
doesn't appear the image tag correctly grabbed the microsoft drive images so i deleted the image format. Downside is you can't see them inline.. but the upside is you can click them to see em..

Read here...
..and follow the links at the bottom.

UPDATE: ok so, I've taken it back to the place I brought it from and they sent it to the repair centre (carphone warehouse). They've turned round and said tis water damage but I disagree as I do not like to keep my gadgets in places that are potential for issues. Will be taking it up with the shop. failing that, Trading Standards.
CAN SOMEONE HELP ME; does water corrosion look similar to that of corrosion caused by excessive current or connection shorting?

I had a ps4 controller do the same thing. it was cause by the cable was not 100% plugged into the controller port. it was still able to charge a bit but after awhile I noticed a burning smell... same results

Intraducinmista said:
UPDATE: ok so, I've taken it back to the place I brought it from and they sent it to the repair centre (carphone warehouse). They've turned round and said tis water damage but I disagree as I do not like to keep my gadgets in places that are potential for issues. Will be taking it up with the shop. failing that, Trading Standards.
CAN SOMEONE HELP ME; does water corrosion look similar to that of corrosion caused by excessive current or connection shorting?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would be looking for blue oxidation if it was water damage.
Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk

dottat said:
I would be looking for blue oxidation if it was water damage.
Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
By any chance green oxidation would indicate electrical corrosion from shorting of the contacts?

QC3.0 cannot exists as TypeC output, also the standard is not supported by USB consortium which developed USB Power Delivery instead.
Benson Leung warned people, that type c to type c charging should be avoided.
Even HTC10 does not follow the official usb specification and uses QC so best any user can do, i using legacy USB type A to type c cable and using charger with USB A output port. Also all cables must have 56k ohm resistor, cheap one come with 11k resistor and could damage power charger or the device. Check Bensons google+, he even linked to Tronsmart chargers which were out of specification and should be avoided.

cavist said:
QC3.0 cannot exists as TypeC output, also the standard is not supported by USB consortium which developed USB Power Delivery instead.
Benson Leung warned people, that type c to type c charging should be avoided.
Even HTC10 does not follow the official usb specification and uses QC so best any user can do, i using legacy USB type A to type c cable and using charger with USB A output port. Also all cables must have 56k ohm resistor, cheap one come with 11k resistor and could damage power charger or the device. Check Bensons google+, he even linked to Tronsmart chargers which were out of specification and should be avoided.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeh, I became aware of this when the QC3.0 was released. Though, my assumption was because I'm connecting between usb type-c to the phones type-c it wouldn't charge off the QC3.0 standard.
Initially, I was using the Nokia type-C charger which came with my Lumia 950XL. It charges at 15 Watts (5V, 3.0A). I had used this the majority of the time and hadn't gone wrong. Sometimes I'd use a portable battery charge which charged at a generic 5V 2A AND a Samsung nexus 10 charger which was a usb female and charged a the same rate.
I would've assumed (also judging from the new releases by QUALCOMM) that QC3.0 phones would either charge of USB standard OR take advantage of QC. I've never used type-c to type-c charging only because I never had the capability. There is a slider in the settings menu to use USB3.1 standard but again, never used it. always done this through a usb3.0 to usb type-c cable.

HTC10 charges normaly from any standard legacy USB port like your old HTC M7 usb wall charger or notebook usb ports. QC3.0 uses data lines in usb cable to provide power and this method is not approved by the USB consortium, thats why you can not also communicate with your phone in QC3.0 mode, because there is no free lines for data left. You can either fast charge, or switch to standard usb mode and transfer files without QC3.0.
USB TypeC standard forbids strictly manouvers over the cable like QC does. For this, the newest Chromebooks and Nexus uses approved USB Power Delivery.
The "problem" was, that Qualcomm is also part of research and development of USB Power Delivery but yet, they in the same time were developing QC3.0. Was it for pure marketing purpose or to fill the gap between USB PD going live, we can not tell.
The only way now to end this confusion is to wait for Qualcomm to switch for USB PD as a successor of QC3.0 because there is really no point of two competing charging standards which one is spec certified and the other is not.

cavist said:
HTC10 charges normaly from any standard legacy USB port like your old HTC M7 usb wall charger or notebook usb ports. QC3.0 uses data lines in usb cable to provide power and this method is not approved by the USB consortium, thats why you can not also communicate with your phone in QC3.0 mode, because there is no free lines for data left. You can either fast charge, or switch to standard usb mode and transfer files without QC3.0.
USB TypeC standard forbids strictly manouvers over the cable like QC does. For this, the newest Chromebooks and Nexus uses approved USB Power Delivery.
The "problem" was, that Qualcomm is also part of research and development of USB Power Delivery but yet, they in the same time were developing QC3.0. Was it for pure marketing purpose or to fill the gap between USB PD going live, we can not tell.
The only way now to end this confusion is to wait for Qualcomm to switch for USB PD as a successor of QC3.0 because there is really no point of two competing charging standards which one is spec certified and the other is not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
so would this mean I will need to set my phone to file transfer mode if I want to charge from USB?
Also, for reference, is there a way to disable quick charge 3.0 (which I assume may be present in the build.prop file OR am I thinking more noob like)

Intraducinmista said:
so would this mean I will need to set my phone to file transfer mode if I want to charge from USB?
Also, for reference, is there a way to disable quick charge 3.0 (which I assume may be present in the build.prop file OR am I thinking more noob like)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, you must understand how usb and QC3 works. I will try to explain it as simply as I can.
Legacy USB have 4 cables inside, two for data transfer, one for curent and one for ground.
If you plug your phone to the usb in notebook, you can charge and transfer data in the same time.
What QC3.0 does, it is using the data paths for providing additional power, so when you plug it to your QC3 charger, it uses all the data routes/cables in USB only for additional and faster charging, so the data connection is blocked in this mode.

Ok, just came back from Carphone Warehouse. It looks as if the phone has corroded more during the time I've given it to them and the time its taken for it too come back.
The colour of the corrosion was of a greenish hue.

cavist said:
No, you must understand how usb and QC3 works. I will try to explain it as simply as I can.
Legacy USB have 4 cables inside, two for data transfer, one for curent and one for ground.
If you plug your phone to the usb in notebook, you can charge and transfer data in the same time.
What QC3.0 does, it is using the data paths for providing additional power, so when you plug it to your QC3 charger, it uses all the data routes/cables in USB only for additional and faster charging, so the data connection is blocked in this mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm awar eof this, but my question is if it can be disabled on the phone or not.

Never heard of disabling QC. I do not think that HTC will provide any tool to disable built in chipset feature.

Type c charging cables

Hello all. I have a quick question. I have bought a type c charging cable that has just arrived, it was sent from in my country to my location in less then 3 days. Off ebay And after purchase I read about how type c charging cables can destroy your devices if you buy a knock off, or a cheap cable or not made properly, by any means this cable was 13.00 AUD. It's 3 meters and it looks very thick and quality looks good. It is generic though. No branding.... So I'm wondering if it would be okay to just use this as a charging cable, and use the original for File transfers. I also have a Spigen cable on the way but I do not want to wait to use this one. Is there any chance that this will be okay to use?... Attaching a photo of the cable

The htc 10 doesn't use USB charging; it uses Quick Charge 3.0.
USB charging has its standards, separate from the connectors and separate from Qualcomm's standards.
Qualcomm states that QC works regardless of cable and connector. However, the htc 10 is picky about the cable and I've not found a rhyme or reason for it. I have a Type C-to- A cable that won't QC but several micro cables that will with a micro-to-C adaptor.

Basically the cable must have a 56k ohm resistor in the type c connector which tells the phone how much power to draw to prevent over current. Usually this is signified by a longer plug and the resistor should be stated in the ad if you can remember where you bought it from. From eye balling the cable you photographed it looks fine. I think it's more of an issue with Nexus phones anyway since the 10 uses a different standard in order to maintain compatibility with qc3.0.

More accurately, the resistor tells the USB-C device that it's hooked up to a legacy "device". Type C to anything being legacy. Anything but type C weren't "designed to handle" 3A of current that the USB Power Delivery can output at 5V.
So if you have a Nexus 6P or a Pixel or whatever that uses USB PD:
if you use a type C to type A cable with a 56kOhm resistor, the phone is going to know that this is a legacy device and it won't attempt to draw more than the "Default USB Power" which is 5V0.5A for USB 1.0/2.0 and 5V0.9A for USB 3.x.
But of course the device will also look past it and see what output current the charger actually advertises it is capable of and then charges at that current the charger is capable of..
But, here's the big problem.
What if you use a type C to type A cable with a 10kOhm or 22kOhm resistor?
That cable is going to tell the device that it's
a) not connected to a legacy device (56kOhm resistor would mean legacy)
b) it IS connected to 5V3A or 5V1.5A (10kOhm/22kOhm resistor respectively) output.
It's going to try and draw 3A of current if the cable has a 10kOhm resistor in there, whether or not the charger can actually output that.
Danger here is that different chargers will respond to that differently.
The charger can either fail spectacularly (read: explode, catch on fire, something bad) or it will just trigger OCP (over current) and not charge if it has the protection or it will just try and cope with it delivering as much current as it can and potentially overheat and fail in some fashion.
Imagine hooking up your Nexus 6P or Pixel to your laptop with a "bad" type C to type A cable.. Those ports are not going to be able to handle that kind of power unless they're something special sauce.
For a little bit more cohesive explanation, read this
http://www.androidauthority.com/usb-type-c-and-3-1-explained-656552/
As for our device, we don't use USB PD. Some have said that the HTC 10 is compliant with it but I don't know if that's true or not.
However we use Quick Charge. Quick Charge doesn't look for resistors, it looks for the other chip inside the charger and talks with that chip, essentially doing a digital handshake before they initiate quick charging.
That prevents the charger from outputting anything higher than 5V unless the device specifically asks for it.
So, in theory, ANY data cable should be perfectly compatible with QC.
Data cable meaning that the D+ and D-, teh data, connectors are hooked up.
QC performs the digital handshake, and subsequent voltage/current adjustments, by talking across the D+ and D- conductors.
If you have a "charge only" cable or a PortaPow "data block" adapter, it means that only the V+ and V- connectors are hooked up and as a result QC chip in your 10 can't talk to the charger to negotiate the QC.
As for why some type C to type A cables don't support quick charge. I have no freaking idea.
I've got one cheap C-A USB 3.0 cable that I bought from ebay and it's a weird cable...
First time I tried charging it was in the car with a dual port (A) QC3.0 charger. Phone said slow charge, for faster results use the original charger. Didn't try again.
With the stock charger I'm testing at the moment, I first got 1.8A (after 1A>1.3A>1.8A over a minute). Unplug and plug it the other way around I got 1.7A and then it dropped to 1.4A. Third time I plugged it in the same way I plugged it the first time and now it said slow charge.. Plug it again the same way and now it charges.
Could it be that the cable either has a 10kOhm or a 22kOhm resistor in there? Maybe. Idk. Don't have means to test it right now, but I'll probably gut the cable later and measure it when I have time.
Moral of the story: come on guys, buy good quality cables from reliable brands for charging. They're not expensive.. Aukey, Anker, PortaPow, you name it. There's a lot of them out there.
I'm personally using the PortaPow cable for charging my 10, only 1 meter length available at this moment but if you want longer or shorter lengths, message them. They'll make them if there's enough interest.
http://www.portablepowersupplies.co.uk/portapow-charge-sync-usb-c-cable/

Thankyou for your help guys I've decided to wait for the Spigen charger

lagittaja said:
Moral of the story: come on guys, buy good quality cables from reliable brands for charging. They're not expensive.. Aukey, Anker, PortaPow, you name it. There's a lot of them out there.
I'm personally using the PortaPow cable for charging my 10, only 1 meter length available at this moment but if you want longer or shorter lengths, message them. They'll make them if there's enough interest.
http://www.portablepowersupplies.co.uk/portapow-charge-sync-usb-c-cable/
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Except that these guys don't make the cable that I need (or I just haven't been able to locate one).
I need a ~6-ft/2m cable with a 90-degree-to-the-front/back elbow on the USB Type C connector like the one shown here:
...and black...no goofy colors.

I thought I knew the correct cable to purchase (I only bought this phone 5 weeks ago and I need to buy 1-2 backup charging cables.
I always bought cables from Monoprice.com (for my M8 anyway) because they were decent quality, they had 6" lengths available, they were pretty cheap, and they had goofy colors (I'll take anything to break up my day a bit).
But now I am not sure which cable is correct. Is the USB version irrelevant with the HTC QuickCharge functionality? So I can get either v2.0, v2.1, or v3.0 USB-C to USB A?? Also, I will go to another vendor if need be, but most of the cables at this website do not state a resistance—just voltage and amps.
So this would be one I might get because it seems OK...
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030319&p_id=14933&seq=1&format=2
If it isn't showing the resistance should I shop someplace else?

Vmo x said:
Thankyou for your help guys I've decided to wait for the Spigen charger
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Why do you want to wait for Spige charger which is not QuickCharge 3.0 dedicated charger like your oroginal HTC OEM charger?
Buy an Aukey QC 3.0 chargers, they are very reasonably priced and high quality. Also, BlitzWolf produces a valid Type C cables with 56k resistor. I personally use them with Aukey and HTC charger and everything is perfect and very good quality.
syntropic said:
So this would be one I might get because it seems OK...
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030319&p_id=14933&seq=1&format=2
If it isn't showing the resistance should I shop someplace else?
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Here is the list of verified and proper Type C cables. I personally recommend BlitzWolf - metal connectors, braided cables, very good and robust quality.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wJwqv3rTNmORXz-XJsQaXK1dl8I91V4-eP_sfNVNzbA/edit#gid=0

cavist said:
Here is the list of verified and proper Type C cables. I personally recommend BlitzWolf - metal connectors, braided cables, very good and robust quality.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wJwqv3rTNmORXz-XJsQaXK1dl8I91V4-eP_sfNVNzbA/edit#gid=0
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Thank you! However, can you qualify the user of the word "proper"? What aspect makes them "proper"?
Sent from my HTC 10 using XDA Labs

Proper means they all have 56k resistor, just like jesus said in the bible. So they are fully compatible with HTC10 and can be used with any QuickCharger or USB PD charger without risk of drawing too much power resulting in explosion. 56k resistor is the main key here and mr Benson, a Google engineer working on devices using USB PD specs which *need* a proper 56k resistor Type C cable, tests himself various cables using a hardware tester and posting reviews about good and bad cables.

cavist said:
Proper means they all have 56k resistor, just like jesus said in the bible. So they are fully compatible with HTC10 and can be used with any QuickCharger or USB PD charger without risk of drawing too much power resulting in explosion. 56k resistor is the main key here and mr Benson, a Google engineer working on devices using USB PD specs which *need* a proper 56k resistor Type C cable, tests himself various cables using a hardware tester and posting reviews about good and bad cables.
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Except that this all deals with USB PD charging, not Qualcomm's Quick Charge, which is its own thing.
cf. https://www.qualcomm.com/products/snapdragon/quick-charge/faq
Q6: Does it matter what type of charging cable is used with a Quick Charge adapter?
A: Quick Charge is designed to be connector- and current-independent. Quick Charge is designed to be compatible with a variety of formats, including:
USB Type-A
USB micro
USB Type-C
Proprietary connectors
Quick Charge high-voltage operation is designed to minimize charging issues associated with long or thin cables, allowing for a superior charging experience, independent of cable type or cable current capability.
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cf. http://thewirecutter.com/blog/quick-charge-usb-c/
I don't like that I can't find specifics on how QC3 works exactly since I have a cable that breaks it.

Rolo42 said:
Except that this all deals with USB PD charging, not Qualcomm's Quick Charge, which is its own thing.
cf. https://www.qualcomm.com/products/snapdragon/quick-charge/faq
cf. http://thewirecutter.com/blog/quick-charge-usb-c/
I don't like that I can't find specifics on how QC3 works exactly since I have a cable that breaks it.
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Unfortunately you did not read the big post on this page along with the article about delivering power over usb cable.
Both QC and USB PD require cable with 56k resistor to work properly. Hence the cable for Google Pixel or HTC10 is the same. Each standard deliver power in its own way over the same cable.

cavist said:
Unfortunately you did not read the big post on this page along with the article about delivering power over usb cable.
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Rather than make accusations based on assumptions, you could point out what you think I missed. I did read all the posts and links and here is what I got:
As for our device, we don't use USB PD.
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As for why some type C to type A cables don't support quick charge. I have no freaking idea.
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cavist said:
Each standard deliver power in its own way over the same cable.
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"It's own way" -- correct. USB-PD requires 56k termination for legacy device compatibility. Our devices use QC, not USB-PD.
cavist said:
Both QC and USB PD require cable with 56k resistor to work properly.
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If this is true, it goes against Qualcomm's specs that I linked that you may or may not have read for comprehension. Qualcomm states that they have no/zero/nada/nicht/nill/null/zilch cable requirements for QC. Also, QC predates USB-PD. The two have nothing to do with each other.
More from the big post I allegedly did not read:
However we use Quick Charge. Quick Charge doesn't look for resistors, it looks for the other chip inside the charger and talks with that chip, essentially doing a digital handshake before they initiate quick charging.
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Do you have an authoritative source that shows that the 56k terminator is necessary for QC3 to work on the htc 10?
I cannot find it on Qualcomm's site or htc's site. Google Pixel and Nexus 6P sites are not authoritative sources for the htc 10 or Qualcomm Quick Charge.

I did not accuse of anything, I am not a prosecutor.
99% of cables used to charge your and mine HTC are USB A (2.0)to USB C cables. The resistor is needed so you will not draw to much current via USB A connector which is not rated for 3A. Lower value resistor will force to draw to much from USB 2.0 spec connector and cable. Simple as that. So your digital handshake between chips is worth essentially nothing if they will indeed greet and meet over cable that is not rated to pass a 3A high current which will lead to fry something.
I suggest to read the discussion in comments section on Benson Leung G+ profile. Do not get me wrong, I wasted my time to go all over it and I do not see point to go back couple of articles again just to point a few most important comments by Benson. You could do the same, because it does not matter if you believe me or not. Bottom line is, you need a 56k resistor USB A to USB C cable for HTC10. Same cable which was shipped to you by HTC in the box. If you do not believe, then take a sharp razor and disassemble your cable. They're cheap so you will get yourself a brand new one very fast.
So, check your oem cable, ask Qualcomm and HTC via mail why you need a cable with 56k resistor. Simple as that.

cavist said:
99% of cables used to charge your and mine HTC are USB A (2.0)to USB C cables. The resistor is needed so you will not draw to much current via USB A connector which is not rated for 3A. Lower value resistor will force to draw to much from USB 2.0 spec connector and cable. Simple as that. So your digital handshake between chips is worth essentially nothing if they will indeed greet and meet over cable that is not rated to pass a 3A high current which will lead to fry something.
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The conclusion you drew is faulty. The pull-up resistor is needed to protect legacy equipment; it has nothing to with Quick Charge or cables/connectors being "rated for 3A" (they aren't--chargers are).
cavist said:
I suggest to read the discussion in comments section on Benson Leung G+ profile.
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I have and they are all dealing with USB charging protocols, not Quick Charge.
cavist said:
Bottom line is, you need a 56k resistor USB A to USB C cable for HTC10. Same cable which was shipped to you by HTC in the box. If you do not believe, then take a sharp razor and disassemble your cable. They're cheap so you will get yourself a brand new one very fast.
So, check your oem cable, ask Qualcomm and HTC via mail why you need a cable with 56k resistor. Simple as that.
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So, no, you do not have an authoritative source for Quick Charge cable compatibility for htc 10.
Did you read the Qualcomm link I sent? It does not require the pull-up resistor. htc FAQ only says "buy our [only one, short, overpriced] OEM cable"; htc tech support never replied to my query.

Ok, it is no use to continue this further. Everybody will do as they want and will be happy. You can recommend cables without or with any other lower resistor and I will recommend with 56k as I did before that actually are working.
Still I can wait for your cable disassembly as last proof that I am completely wrong but I think that will not change anything at all in this discussion.