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I know this is mostly common knowledge but I still see many questions regarding this come up, so instead of explaining this over and over I can now link to this and flame away.
anyway...
When you charge your phone using an original HTC wall charger you phone gets all the power it needs to run itself and charge (up to 1000ma).
When you charge from any (most) other devices (this includes car chargers,non HTC wall chargers or any USB port) your phone will draw up to 500ma (the USB standard) REGARDLESS of the devices output.
The reason why the phone only draws 500ma on USB is so it does not damage any equipment by drawing more power than it can output safely (by design anything with a USB port can safely output 500ma).
The trouble is pretty much all equipment can safely output more than the USB standard of 500ma and safely charge your phone at full speed.
The phone distinguishes between an original HTC charger and other devices by whether or not the data wires are shorted (connected to each other).
How to do the charger mod.
Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for anything that may happen as a result of doing this, by following these instructions you will be pushing any device you charge your phone from beyond the USB specifications, results of this may be, but not limited to your motherboard bursting into flames, you car exploding, the inventor/s of USB knocking on your door and slapping you in the face, but most probably faster charging and not a lot else.
Get yourself a short USB extender wire, male at one end, female at the other.
Cut the wire in half.
Connect the red and black wires up as they were before (or don't cut them in step 1).
On the Female side of the wire connect the green and white wires together.
On the Male side of the wire simply leave the green and white wires connected to nothing.
Insulate the ends of all of the wires with insulating tape.
Tie a knot in the wire so if the wire is pulled the knot is pulled and not the connection you made, it doesn't look pretty but the wire will last a lifetime this way.
All done, now use this wire in between your desire and whatever you want to charge from and get a full speed charge. You will lose data connectivity when using this wire.
There are other ways of doing this, for example.
Soldering together the data pins (middle 2) on the device you wish to charge from. Don't do this on your laptop...this method is intended for car chargers, wall plugs, and external USB battery packs.
Soldering together a male and female USB port and plug directly with no wire in between, this can look really good if you know what your doing.
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
ste1164 said:
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a 3rd party changer and I did this mod and it's working really great it's charging really fast
ste1164 said:
Great guide! Just a quick question I have a 3rd party USB cable but an official htc wall plug. Will my desire still get 1000mA? Or will it only get 500 because of the 3rd party charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The original charger shorts the data pins so it doesn't matter what cable you use.
Hi,
just wanted to say thank you for the idea. For me this is really usefull in some situations at work, where I have no access to a socket, but a pc.
It charges not as fast as the AC charger, but MUCH faster, than the usual 500mah USB method.
And so does it look like:
fileden.com/files/2006/9/25/238757/charger2.jpg
fileden.com/files/2006/9/25/238757/charger1.jpg
TrTech said:
just wanted to say thank you for the idea. For me this is really usefull in some situations at work, where I have no access to a socket, but a pc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And next time, use your brain first, please.
Do you have an idea why the HTC Desire does limit the current to 500mA if it's not connected to a dedicated charger which shorts the two data pins? Ever thought about it? Ever?
Umm... yes. But please feel free to enlight me.
TrTech said:
Umm... yes. But please feel free to enlight me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
umm, and I thought the post starter already answered this question:
The reason why the phone only draws 500ma on USB is so it does not damage any equipment by drawing more power than it can output safely (by design anything with a USB port can safely output 500ma).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So in other words:
Any laptop or computer can output max. 500mA by USB specifications.
So this means:
You can have luck and your computer doesn't get damaged if more current gets requested, it just limits the current to something around 500mA.
You can have luck and your computer just shuts down the USB port and Windows reports you that a malfunction device got connected.
You can have bad luck, most often the case, especially on cheap notebooks, netbooks, computers, a fuse will prevent bigger damage and the USB port remains dead until the rest of it's computer live.
So the limit got wisely chosen. So if you want to use your USB ports in the future, too, then only use this 'trick' on wall adapters which support an output current equal or larger than 1A (1000mA), or use it only in combination with USB ports which support that high currents (most often advertised as being able to charge the Apple IPad), most often found on external USB hubs.
UpSpin said:
umm, and I thought the post starter already answered this question
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Me too. Its all written in the first post and I'm doing it on my own risk. Still wondering about your raging post.
I will update this, as soon as the first pc was fried.
TrTech said:
Me too. Its all written in the first post and I'm doing it on my own risk. Still wondering about your raging post.
I will update this, as soon as the first pc was fried.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was that 'unfriendly' because other people will do the same, because person xy said that it works. Then they fry their mainboard or notebook and complain.
I also don't understand why anyone risks damaging intentionally its computer or parts of it, especially if there's absolutely no need for it, e.g. just let it charge in USB mode, or take a small charger with you, or at least use two USB ports to separate the load.
But well, maybe some people don't have to take care of their computer.
This is an interesting thread. I have a Pebble charger and it literally takes four hours to charge my 1400mAh from ~0% to 100%, now my question is, will this damage my Pebble charger shorting the two wires to draw a greater current from the unit?
Overheating, melting and explosions are something I am looking to avoid.
I have yet to find a device that has been damaged doing this. I have personally tried this on a ps3, Xbox wii, 4 laptops 2 desktops, car radio,car charger and a sky+ box.
Kalavere said:
This is an interesting thread. I have a Pebble charger and it literally takes four hours to charge my 1400mAh from ~0% to 100%, now my question is, will this damage my Pebble charger shorting the two wires to draw a greater current from the unit?
Overheating, melting and explosions are something I am looking to avoid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you try this? I too have a Pebble and would be interested to know if I have just 30 minutes to plug it in, can I charge quicker.
Also, did the guys PC blow up? He said he would come back!?!? Maybe it did and he's in hospital still Dangerous things USB ports...
thanks for this ! I go to try this
MM i have an interesting one (which i still dont get)
i have a pebble charger
with OEM HTC Micro USB charger cable
and Pebble charger
plug phone into OEM micro USB charger to phone (phone says Power AC) yeh thats right
OEM Micro USB to computer (chargin USB)
So far so good
Pebble charger OEM USB to phone (chargin USB)
Pebble Cable charger to phone ( Power AC)
why are the OEM and Pebble charger cables different?
Sorry if i am posting in the wrong area but the topics seem pretty similar to me =P
to put my 2pence in, i've just done this but slightly different than the OP method..
i bought the belkin car charger, gives 1amp, but is detected as 'USB', not 'AC' charging mode, so my phone only charges upto 500ma which isnt enough (in reality it doesnt charge when i have GPS & max screen brightness).
instead of modding a USB cable (unable to use for data) or buying extra kit (money/ordering/going out) i pulled a strand of wire from a spare mains cable i had, threaded it through the 2 center pins on the belkin charger and then twisted the wire together.
USB cable is slightly tighter in the socket now, but still removable and keeps everything nice and tidy.... and more to the point; cheap!
poor shown from belkin; 'USB charger' mode in a car! like it would ever have data connection to the 12v socket.
hope that helps someone!
USB cable to quick-charge an HTC smartphone
Check http://winhlp.com/node/855 for some more details and photos of a USB cable modification.
Does this mod change the detection of car mode
Hi,
I have just started flashing a couple of roms and noticed that when using my desire with my car charger (1amp rated) it does not charge when doing navigation. looking on battery widget I get a max 289mw on car charge and it is showing as a USB charge. Flashed back to stock and now the car charger shows up as ac connected rather than USB. This does solve the discharging on navigation issue but I would like to run Gingerbread.
my question is...
Will this mod stop the Desire detecting and automatically entering car mode when it is plugged in? Anyone done it to their car charger?
Ta
Yes
The cable modification (shorting the data lines 2 and 3, instructions at http://winhlp.com/node/855 ) will switch any HTC smartphone into AC charging mode.
But I am totally stumped as to why you can achieve AC charging mode without this mod. I know of no other way the HTC phone could detect a car USB charger. I'm tempted to ask you to repeat the test.
If anybody here has any idea, please respond. To the best of my knowledge no USB device is allowed to pull more than 0.5 A from USB power, lest the power source switch off according to the USB specification. The only exception is that the device gets positive information that it is connected to a charger that can deliver a higher current, and for HTC devices that is signalled by a shortcut between the two data lines.
Thank you. I would rather not check again I did look for a while. Reverted back to stock for now.
It is a Huawei curly lead car charger with a 1a rating. The strangest thing is that with my stock Vodafone rom it detects as AC power on battery widget but on both leedroid and RCMix it shows up as a USB charge and I get the power issue. On all three roms it detects car mode correctly (Which is good!).
I was just wondering if the mod would also break the car mode detection?
I can't find anything on how car mode is detected!
What is the best solution for quick charging the Galaxy Nexus in an automobile?
I have started to use 12-220 volt converter so I can use wall chargers.
I have bought a few of the low profile car usb chargers but they were never recognized as an AC charge. Come to find out, it was the USB cable. I bought a usb charging cable from Amazon last week and it goes in the USB charger and the phone does not think it is a USB charge. I have not timed it but it is recognized the same as the wall charger.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYBCAY
ellisz said:
I have bought a few of the low profile car usb chargers but they were never recognized as an AC charge. Come to find out, it was the USB cable. I bought a usb charging cable from Amazon last week and it goes in the USB charger and the phone does not think it is a USB charge. I have not timed it but it is recognized the same as the wall charger.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYBCAY
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 .. this solution has been working great for me, as well.
I've been getting 2.1A car chargers (look for ones for the iPad), most of the ones I had prior to this were 700mA or so and they can't keep up with my 1A phones. Be careful of dual port chargers advertising 2A, they may only be 1A each and may be "optimistic" about that rating. And don't worry about getting one rated for too much current, the Galaxy Nexus won't pull more than an amp no matter what the charger rating.
Some really good solutions here and thank you all for the help.
I'd really hate to use an inventer in my car just to maintain a clean install, so that really isnt an option for me.
Was really hoping to be able to use a off the shelf car charger with the correct pins to trick the GNexus into thinking that it was charging from a USB port, but the above solution should work well with using a socket USB charger.
I've never run into a car adapter that looks like a USB port, including the VZW charger with a spare port or the cheap 2.1A chargers I got from Amazon. My guess is that a charger not built correctly and leaving the data pins open only supports ~500mA anyway. Even if that's not the case I have a moral objection toward buying a cable to fix a design flaw in another cheap product - but that's just me
Grant H said:
Some really good solutions here and thank you all for the help.
I'd really hate to use an inventer in my car just to maintain a clean install, so that really isnt an option for me.
Was really hoping to be able to use a off the shelf car charger with the correct pins to trick the GNexus into thinking that it was charging from a USB port, but the above solution should work well with using a socket USB charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got a charger similar to http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/USB-Car-...ccessories&hash=item4ab18358f4#ht_1638wt_1392
All I had to do was undo the screws at the top, put a bit of solder between the middle usb pins, and my phone recognises it as a AC source rather than USB.
There has got to be a standard car charger on the market with the middle usb pins already soldiered!
I found this on Amazon which advertises itself as a rapid charging device.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q9CA
Grant H said:
What is the best solution for quick charging the Galaxy Nexus in an automobile?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make sure the charger has the IC (rapid) chip. I use this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Vehicle-Adapter-micro-USB-Charger/dp/B000S5Q9CA
I've heard that Motorola one mentioned a lot as a good one.
The nice thing about having the low-profile usb plug is (a) it is low profile, (b) I can use it to charge other devices. The charge-only cable is only about $4, so I had no issues buying it to work with this to charge as an AC charge over a USB charge.
Grant H said:
There has got to be a standard car charger on the market with the middle usb pins already soldiered!
I found this on Amazon which advertises itself as a rapid charging device.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q9CA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this one and it charges just like it does from the home outlet and its says "AC" charging. I bought another 8 for family and friends and they all love it.
I think I've figured out the disconnect, I've run into chargers that appear as a USB host which limits the charging to 500mA on previous phones I've had.
You guys are concerned about USB vs. AC charging mode. Of the chargers I've got, this one lists as AC while the rest as USB. However, the fact that the other chargers all work just fine keeping up with GPS+streaming music indicates that the USB vs. AC really has no bearing on the charge current delivered. I'd stay away from charge-only cables just because they'll get mixed in with your standard USB cables and you'll knock yourself out wondering why they don't work. On the other hand, if you really want AC in your battery info order the one I linked.
I keep it in my car... i think I've heard on other threads that USB charging doesn't keep up with GPS (for Directions). Any verify?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA App
TheKaz said:
I keep it in my car... i think I've heard on other threads that USB charging doesn't keep up with GPS (for Directions). Any verify?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's much more important is the rating on the power source. The GN can pull up to 1000mA, if your charger is only rated for 800mA (like many car chargers) it doesn't matter if it's in AC mode.
jdbower said:
What's much more important is the rating on the power source. The GN can pull up to 1000mA, if your charger is only rated for 800mA (like many car chargers) it doesn't matter if it's in AC mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
makes sense.. the one I use has dual usb (1.0 and 2.1)
You went and gave me a project for the weekend, and once again science prevails over anecdotal evidence. I took each of my 5 chargers and hooked them up to a 12V power supply that measures current. I then recorded whether the charger reported AC or USB, for the ones with USB I modified a right-angle adapter to short out the data pins, and I measured the current. The contenders:
Verizon Wireless Dual Charger
XTG Dual Port Charger
Griffen Powerjolt Dual USB Charger
Griffen Portjolt Micro
CostMad Dual USB Charger
The VZW model was USB out the external port as I had tested before, however AC out the built-in cable which I hadn't bothered to test. It pulled 0.25A @12V via the USB port and 0.59A via the cable. Hmmm... A hole develops in my previous observation. While I had used this on a long car trip with no issues, it was via the built-in cable.
The XTG was new, I hadn't used it before as it's in the car I rarely drive. It reported USB and 0.22A. With the adapter to make it report AC it pulled 0.48A.
The pattern was set. I had expected the Griffen adapters to be built more appropriately but the dual charger reported 0.22A without the adapter and 0.42A with. I had used this without losing charge in the past so this was surprising to me, but it's possible I just wasn't drawing as much current because the screen was dimmer or something.
The compact Griffen adapter (which is great for a laptop bag, BTW) pulled 0.21A and 0.47A respectively.
The cheap CostMad adapter was the only one that performed well out of the box, both reporting AC and pulled 0.57A.
In theory, a perfect adapter should pull 0.42A. Anything more is waste, anything less means it's not keeping up. I have doubts about the Griffen 2x allowing for a full amp, but the VZW and CostMad chargers are pretty lossy. What's even worse is that I'm pretty sure the VZW charger is rated for 800mA (but I can't find an actual spec on it) which would mean that it pulled the most power for the least current. Not that this really matters unless you've got an electric car.
Sorry for misleading you earlier, I should have checked the other port of the known-good VZW charger and probably doublechecked the numbers on my other "known good" charger. Still hating cables that work for charging but not for data, I ended up modifying each of the chargers to short the middle pins (except for the VZW one). If I didn't have the soldering iron for this, I probably would have gone for some of these instead.
Grant H said:
There has got to be a standard car charger on the market with the middle usb pins already soldiered!
I found this on Amazon which advertises itself as a rapid charging device.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q9CA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
CyberPunk7t9 said:
Make sure the charger has the IC (rapid) chip. I use this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Vehicle-Adapter-micro-USB-Charger/dp/B000S5Q9CA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using the same one and it works perfect. Charges even when GPS navigation is running.
Make sure you select Amazon as the seller though. I heard there are a lot of fake ones.
Grant H said:
There has got to be a standard car charger on the market with the middle usb pins already soldiered!
I found this on Amazon which advertises itself as a rapid charging device.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q9CA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 to those recommending this one. I have this exact model and it does indeed charge at the "AC" rate, about twice as fast as the "USB" rate.
TheKaz said:
I keep it in my car... i think I've heard on other threads that USB charging doesn't keep up with GPS (for Directions). Any verify?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Motorola one will charge even when using GPS. I have a friend I bought one for that uses his GPS all day and loves the Motorola charger.
I recently bought this cable here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/20095042399...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
It wasn't untill now when I got it that I saw that it said in the description that it charged slower, but why? It shouldn't make any difference? Is it higher resistance?
It has nothing to do with length, but rather with them using thin wires designed for PC usb port. USB port on your laptop or computer is designed for a max 500mA output current. A lot of manufactures make cables for that spec, intended for data transfer from your computer. Others make fancy noodle shaped cables and use thin wires in there as well. New phones like Note 2/3 use 2A at full speed charging. More current - thicker wire. You need something like 24AWG thickness, and hardly anybody company selling usb cables advertise that. But you can get it from monoprice.com - just search for 24AWG. Those can handle up to 3A with a derating down to 2A. In general, thinner wires - more resistance, higher heat and loss, slower charging speed.
vectron said:
It has nothing to do with length, but rather with them using thin wires designed for PC usb port. USB port on your laptop or computer is designed for a max 500mA output current. A lot of manufactures make cables for that spec, intended for data transfer from your computer. Others make fancy noodle shaped cables and use thin wires in there as well. New phones like Note 2/3 use 2A at full speed charging. More current - thicker wire. You need something like 24AWG thickness, and hardly anybody company selling usb cables advertise that. But you can get it from monoprice.com - just search for 24AWG. Those can handle up to 3A with a derating down to 2A. In general, thinner wires - more resistance, higher heat and loss, slower charging speed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay then! Then a flat slim cable shouldn't be any good for charging at all.
Gonna order this instead: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PortaPow-Hi...ories_MobilePhoneChargers&hash=item4ac6919243
baxtex said:
Okay then! Then a flat slim cable shouldn't be any good for charging at all.
Gonna order this instead: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PortaPow-Hi...ories_MobilePhoneChargers&hash=item4ac6919243
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perfect choice
I usually get monoprice cables: http://www.monoprice.com/products/search.asp?keyword=24AWG+usb but not sure if its available for UK delivery.
i think longer or shorter the charger cable did not make different change
at my experience it's about the original of the charger.i mean original for similiar phone
urama said:
i think longer or shorter the charger cable did not make different change
at my experience it's about the original of the charger.i mean original for similiar phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i have a PALM original charger for Pre with a original cable which work fine but the charger could not charge my Pre when i use another cable bought from ebay.
the cable is the problem.
i dont think so
Weird (as in: this should not happen by any rational explanation).
I do bought a longer flat cable to use the phone at night while charging.
I sometimes use it to charge during the day.
And I "feel" that charging takes roughly the same BUT the batter drains faster with the flat cable.
I know I know.. that probably is just my imagination
I bought Blitzwolf 3A USB-C cable which I am using in my car with Android Auto & my HTC 10.
While I am switching to 1+3t I am thinking if I can still use same cable for Android Auto+charging in car
Any ideas?
The cable should be fine, but it will be trickle charge. Only the dash chargers provide quick charging.
I got this one for $6 on Amazon and it's Benson approved. I also brought a few Otium adapters, which sell a pair for $7 and of course Benson approved. They are so small, so I just have them all over the place. One in a bag, one in the bedroom, one in the car, and one in the office. If anyone found a good Benson approved USB-C cables that sell in packs with at least one 6ft, please share.
I bought a pack of these: https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Adapter-Type-C-MacBook-Google/dp/B01ANLA6OU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1480436320&sr=8-5&keywords=usb+b+to+c+adapter which work ok and I didn't have to buy all new cables, at least for now. I will eventually get a new cable though.
GiSS88 said:
I bought a pack of these: https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Adapter-Type-C-MacBook-Google/dp/B01ANLA6OU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1480436320&sr=8-5&keywords=usb+b+to+c+adapter which work ok and I didn't have to buy all new cables, at least for now. I will eventually get a new cable though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These allowed you to trickle-charge via standard microUSB, correct? I have a 3T on the way, and I don't look forward to being chained to one charging cable.
donalgodon said:
These allowed you to trickle-charge via standard microUSB, correct? I have a 3T on the way, and I don't look forward to being chained to one charging cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, they work fine. Description states it also has a 56kOhm resistor to prevent damage, but I don't really have any way of testing. I generally only use it as a backup at this point.
GiSS88 said:
Yes, they work fine. Description states it also has a 56kOhm resistor to prevent damage, but I don't really have any way of testing. I generally only use it as a backup at this point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had a Oneplus One and the only thing that broke on it was the charging cable, so being tied to one cable gives me pause.
Always go for high-quality well known and reviewed usb-c cable's. As dash charge uses 4 Amps+ you will definitely need a high gauge cable (thicker copper wires) to safely carry that amount of current. Tell tail signs of cheap cables are obviously slow charging but the worse case is a buildup of heat and short out of the cables. Braided also tend to have higher wear and fraying resistance. I went for one of these Anker PowerLine+ USB-C to USB
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01GN0M6NE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O6jwyb6S54SRJ
LMcR92 said:
Always go for high-quality well known and reviewed usb-c cable's. As dash charge uses 4 Amps+ you will definitely need a high gauge cable (thicker copper wires) to safely carry that amount of current. Tell tail signs of cheap cables are obviously slow charging but the worse case is a buildup of heat and short out of the cables. Braided also tend to have higher wear and fraying resistance. I went for one of these Anker PowerLine+ USB-C to USB
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01GN0M6NE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O6jwyb6S54SRJ
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I just got one of these but Dash charging doesn't work. Might buy an extra from oneplus and reverse engineer and make my own.
I did discover the 1+3T slurps 1.5A (voltage drops to 4.6V)out of my desktop-PC USB2.0 socket when no data-connection is provided, and nicely reduces the current to 495 mA when connected to USB.
This with original dash-cable and Legion meter. I did not try for long though, as my mainboard is only rated for 1A.
From a good high current (IKEA) 3 x 2.1 A adapter it also takes 1.5A, with no voltage drop. So it looks to me that the phone is charging with 1.5A unless a dashcharger is directly connected, or reduced to 0.5 A when connected to USB.
When connected through my Legion meter, it will charge with 1.5A even if connected to a dash-charger.
From the cable-tables, you can select AWG 23 for 4.7A, AWG 27 for 1.7A and AWG 32 for 0.53A, so there is quite a difference
donalgodon said:
I had a Oneplus One and the only thing that broke on it was the charging cable, so being tied to one cable gives me pause.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you want to be able to quick charge you will be tied down to the stock cable. I have an abundance of USB-C cables that I used to use with my Nexus 5X (charged at 2.3A on average) and none of those cable come close to charging the OP3T at 4A. I usually get around 1.4A when using 3rd party cables.
Gor this one in AliExpress, dash working and fast delivery to Spain https://es.aliexpress.com/item/100-...-Flash-Charging-USB-Wire-For/32708785156.html
I bought this before 3 months https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ori...32695530105.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.nTY2Iz support dash
Also seeing about 1.5a while using high quality cables and powerful charger...tested using Ampere. Just glad that this is my first android phone that I don't need to charge throughout the day.
Previous phones: mytouch4g, s2, note 3, note 4, note 5.... Never really put the 6p through its paces.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
I have a fairly old laptop, and it only has the USB A connector on it
Any idea which USB C to USB A data cable I can use to connect Moto Z Play to Windows 7 laptop?
thanks!
animefans said:
I have a fairly old laptop, and it only has the USB A connector on it
Any idea which USB C to USB A data cable I can use to connect Moto Z Play to Windows 7 laptop?
thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't received mine yet but I assume an A to micro plugged into a Micro female to C male adapter will work just fine for charge and xfers. But again, I haven't tested it yet. Both can be had for cheap on ebay.
KrisM22 said:
I haven't received mine yet but I assume an A to mini plugged into a mini to C adapter will work just fine for charge and xfers. But again, I haven't tested it yet. Both can be had for cheap on ebay.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is my first time dealing with USB C cable, but I have read (headline mostly) that USB C cable is pretty picky, and some can even fried the device
If you don't mind, can you let me know your experience with the adapter?
Thanks!
animefans said:
This is my first time dealing with USB C cable, but I have read (headline mostly) that USB C cable is pretty picky, and some can even fried the device
If you don't mind, can you let me know your experience with the adapter?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, my first time with USB-C connector.
1. important change in my first answer - change "mini" to "micro". (I keep confusing the 2 in my speak! I have tons of "A to micro" cables lying around to charge things like my cell phones etc. So I got and ordered adapters which go micro female to C male. I have no idea if they will be problematic.
2. been lazy so finally ordered a couple cables on ebay with description "USB-C 3.1 Type C Male to 3.0 Type A Male Sync Data Charger Fast Charging Cable" - the important thing for me being the 3.0 type A. Even though realistically, I believe we are only using 4 conductors on a regular-speed power charge or data xfer. But the high speed charge probably uses more, but that's a separate cable attached to the wall wart charger.
3. as to them frying things , i googled and found many many many reports about that one incident. I actually expected more. What you could do to minimize this is eyeball connectors before you plug them in, and possibly shut phone off (and unplug charger) and plug C connector in to phone just to make sure it slides in easily. I believe the only USB connectors I have ever had problems with were very recent: micro male attached to the end of some cheap 10-20$ "endoscopes". Really had problem getting them in to my Moto G3, but no shorts.
Lightening can strike anywhere and anytime. We can just do our best to be careful!
Certainly I'll let you know my experience though I have yet to see the phone hit the post office.
KrisM22 said:
Yes, my first time with USB-C connector.
1. important change in my first answer - change "mini" to "micro". (I keep confusing the 2 in my speak! I have tons of "A to micro" cables lying around to charge things like my cell phones etc. So I got and ordered adapters which go micro female to C male. I have no idea if they will be problematic.
2. been lazy so finally ordered a couple cables on ebay with description "USB-C 3.1 Type C Male to 3.0 Type A Male Sync Data Charger Fast Charging Cable" - the important thing for me being the 3.0 type A. Even though realistically, I believe we are only using 4 conductors on a regular-speed power charge or data xfer. But the high speed charge probably uses more, but that's a separate cable attached to the wall wart charger.
3. as to them frying things , i googled and found many many many reports about that one incident. I actually expected more. What you could do to minimize this is eyeball connectors before you plug them in, and possibly shut phone off (and unplug charger) and plug C connector in to phone just to make sure it slides in easily. I believe the only USB connectors I have ever had problems with were very recent: micro male attached to the end of some cheap 10-20$ "endoscopes". Really had problem getting them in to my Moto G3, but no shorts.
Lightening can strike anywhere and anytime. We can just do our best to be careful!
Certainly I'll let you know my experience though I have yet to see the phone hit the post office.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for sharing your perspective on this topic!
I will also do my own research as well, and see what I learn
It might not be as bad as I think/perceive!
animefans said:
Thanks for sharing your perspective on this topic!
I will also do my own research as well, and see what I learn
It might not be as bad as I think/perceive!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the unit and have done a ton of plugging/un- and though I notice the connection is slightly stiff, I have noticed no problems with the USB-C.
KrisM22 said:
I have the unit and have done a ton of plugging/un- and though I notice the connection is slightly stiff, I have noticed no problems with the USB-C.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not do very thorough reading, but from what I gather, the issue with USB-C is the potential for USB-C device (maybe 3 amps) to pull more current than the USB-A port can supply (most likely 2 amps), thus frying the USB-A port
A USB-C to USB-A cable that has 56 ohm resistor will avoid this issue by forcing the client (usb C device) to draw as much power as the host (usb A port) can supply
Here are the pages that I read on this topic
https://www.androidauthority.com/best-usb-type-c-cables-682801/
https://www.extremetech.com/computi...-and-other-usb-devices-as-quickly-as-possible
https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/how-to-find-safe-usb-type-c-cables
animefans said:
I have not do very thorough reading, but from what I gather, the issue with USB-C is the potential for USB-C device (maybe 3 amps) to pull more current than the USB-A port can supply (most likely 2 amps), thus frying the USB-A port
A USB-C to USB-A cable that has 56 ohm resistor will avoid this issue by forcing the client (usb C device) to draw as much power as the host (usb A port) can supply
Here are the pages that I read on this topic
https://www.androidauthority.com/best-usb-type-c-cables-682801/
https://www.extremetech.com/computi...-and-other-usb-devices-as-quickly-as-possible
https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/how-to-find-safe-usb-type-c-cables
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for this. A close read of that indicates to me that there is going to be a ton of arguing over what is safe, and some burnt out 5v power rails in some, especially older, computers.
The mention of 56Kohm resister in cables has caused some cable sellers to advertise that, but having that, in and of itself, I believe doesn't do anything - you need load balancing circuitry in both the phone AND the charger to utilize it.
I read this quote with amusement "A good cable uses a deep-draw extrusion method that produces a Type C plug that is a single piece of metal and does not have a visible seam on one side of the plug,". My phone came with a factory Motorola hi speed charger that is rated for 5v 3a (15w), and it's C plug has just such a "bad" seam. So many people make such blanket statements that simply are not true.
I looked at one of my wall-wart chargers(this particular one is stamped Samsung) and it is rated at 5v, 0.7a (3.5w), so it's a good bet that if I plug my old A to micro to micro-to-C adapter to phone, that nothing bad will happen. Another one (Moto) rated at .8a. A 3rd one that came with my Moto G3 is rated .55a .
1)So if one goes to ebay and buys a wall wart rated at 5a and uses old cables and adapter to plug it to a Moto Z, what will happen? Dunno!
2) I have had my Moto z plugged very often to my computer with just such an arrangement and have not noticed any "fast charging".
I have a huge 850w PSU in my computer, but that does not mean that all that amperage available on the rail is permitted through the USB connection. Intel offers some ideas and I would bet that most current mobos have such limiting circuitry: I am sure older (than 10 yrs?) do not, or at least not as effective.
http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/whitepapers/power_delivery_motherboards.pdf
The phone also has smart limiting circuitry, but of course I don't know what it is.
Am I more in jeopardy with an old A to micro cable with C adapter, or a new A to C cable. Dunno. Certainly any wall wart should be from the/a phone mfgr, or rated below an amp or so. I don't know if you can make this phone fast charge for 30 min if it's rated for 3a, without an official charger. The remainder of the charge time is governed by the phone to be at a much slower rate.
With this new phone, I have yet to connect it to a wall wart other than for 5 min to the official one just to make sure it worked, and I don't recall any high speed message. It winds up getting a 100% charge just by being plugged into my computer since I am doing file transfers and the like.
As to the plugs themselves, you can run much more amperage through an A (few wide conductors) than a C (many very thin conductors).
A very great deal is being made of this one incident. It is hard for me to understand how a different cable can burn out a computer. You can run 10 amps through any cable (though it will get more than a tad warm!), but amps in a cable is not a problem. It's the governor, or lack thereof, in the source (wall wart or computer) and the target (phone or another computer). If the computer presents a short circuit to the cable, something will surely fry, but no device, these days, should ever do that.
A cable (they all are made in China, but there are many factorys there with widely varying QC), with an M stamp on it or not, is still just 4 wires in a sheath. If it is poorly made, or the connectors at the ends are poorly made or poorly attached, there will be trouble.
Okay, that's enough words for this post, but, for sure, this topic will be around forever!
EDIT: C type connectors have been in use on phones for years now. Why have we not heard of any phones destroyed???????
KrisM22 said:
Thanks for this. A close read of that indicates to me that there is going to be a ton of arguing over what is safe, and some burnt out 5v power rails in some, especially older, computers.
The mention of 56Kohm resister in cables has caused some cable sellers to advertise that, but having that, in and of itself, I believe doesn't do anything - you need load balancing circuitry in both the phone AND the charger to utilize it.
I read this quote with amusement "A good cable uses a deep-draw extrusion method that produces a Type C plug that is a single piece of metal and does not have a visible seam on one side of the plug,". My phone came with a factory Motorola hi speed charger that is rated for 5v 3a (15w), and it's C plug has just such a "bad" seam. So many people make such blanket statements that simply are not true.
I looked at one of my wall-wart chargers(this particular one is stamped Samsung) and it is rated at 5v, 0.7a (3.5w), so it's a good bet that if I plug my old A to micro to micro-to-C adapter to phone, that nothing bad will happen. Another one (Moto) rated at .8a. A 3rd one that came with my Moto G3 is rated .55a .
1)So if one goes to ebay and buys a wall wart rated at 5a and uses old cables and adapter to plug it to a Moto Z, what will happen? Dunno!
2) I have had my Moto z plugged very often to my computer with just such an arrangement and have not noticed any "fast charging".
I have a huge 850w PSU in my computer, but that does not mean that all that amperage available on the rail is permitted through the USB connection. Intel offers some ideas and I would bet that most current mobos have such limiting circuitry: I am sure older (than 10 yrs?) do not, or at least not as effective.
http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/whitepapers/power_delivery_motherboards.pdf
The phone also has smart limiting circuitry, but of course I don't know what it is.
Am I more in jeopardy with an old A to micro cable with C adapter, or a new A to C cable. Dunno. Certainly any wall wart should be from the/a phone mfgr, or rated below an amp or so. I don't know if you can make this phone fast charge for 30 min if it's rated for 3a, without an official charger. The remainder of the charge time is governed by the phone to be at a much slower rate.
With this new phone, I have yet to connect it to a wall wart other than for 5 min to the official one just to make sure it worked, and I don't recall any high speed message. It winds up getting a 100% charge just by being plugged into my computer since I am doing file transfers and the like.
As to the plugs themselves, you can run much more amperage through an A (few wide conductors) than a C (many very thin conductors).
A very great deal is being made of this one incident. It is hard for me to understand how a different cable can burn out a computer. You can run 10 amps through any cable (though it will get more than a tad warm!), but amps in a cable is not a problem. It's the governor, or lack thereof, in the source (wall wart or computer) and the target (phone or another computer). If the computer presents a short circuit to the cable, something will surely fry, but no device, these days, should ever do that.
A cable (they all are made in China, but there are many factorys there with widely varying QC), with an M stamp on it or not, is still just 4 wires in a sheath. If it is poorly made, or the connectors at the ends are poorly made or poorly attached, there will be trouble.
Okay, that's enough words for this post, but, for sure, this topic will be around forever!
EDIT: C type connectors have been in use on phones for years now. Why have we not heard of any phones destroyed???????
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Certainly a good read, and another perspective on this matter!
I can't argue with anything you said
I am also in no position to offer any additional opinion, since I don't know squat on this topic. My first USB C device
But you do touch on an excellent point: not a whole lot of reported issue with damage related to USB C.
As statistics goes, 1 sample is not representitive
It is a data point, and that's a fact, but you can't draw solid conclusion from 1 incident
animefans said:
Certainly a good read, and another perspective on this matter!
I can't argue with anything you said
I am also in no position to offer any additional opinion, since I don't know squat on this topic. My first USB C device
But you do touch on an excellent point: not a whole lot of reported issue with damage related to USB C.
As statistics goes, 1 sample is not representitive
It is a data point, and that's a fact, but you can't draw solid conclusion from 1 incident
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the other hand I will try to get a 4-5' cable that supposedly has 56Kohm resisters in it...
KrisM22 said:
On the other hand I will try to get a 4-5' cable that supposedly has 56Kohm resisters in it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For science?
animefans said:
For science?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually for possible protection of my old wall warts. If I understand correctly, using a 56Kohm cable keeps current low (slow charge). I'd hate to think what my wall wart would look like it my Moto z tried to pull 3 amps out of it!!!
EDIT - It also just seems a prudent thing to do...
Do you have any preferences?
I just ordered these on ebay: "USB C Cable (2-Pack 6ft) Anker PowerLine USB C to USB 3.0 Cable with 56k Ohm Pul"