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I'm looking to turn my Galaxy Note 10.1 2014 edition into a full replacement for laptop. What I would like to find in a case:
1.) Ruggedness. I'd love to be able to accidentally drop my tablet while carrying it with me to class and not have to worry about having broken such an expensive gadget.
2.) Flexible angles. My laptop can pivot to a wide variety of angles. I would love to see this for my Note tablet too.
3.) Trackpad. When my tablet is in the case I would love to be able to switch to a trackpad approach of navigating the screen.
4.) Keyboard. Moreso than a bluetooth keyboard I would love something that can get its power from the tablet itself.
5.) High quality materials. I don't want flimsy faux leather or plastic. Metals would be preferred.
Are there any products that match some or all of the things I want in a case? Money isn't really an object provided it doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
thatblokematti said:
I'm looking to turn my Galaxy Note 10.1 2014 edition into a full replacement for laptop. What I would like to find in a case:
1.) Ruggedness. I'd love to be able to accidentally drop my tablet while carrying it with me to class and not have to worry about having broken such an expensive gadget.
2.) Flexible angles. My laptop can pivot to a wide variety of angles. I would love to see this for my Note tablet too.
3.) Trackpad. When my tablet is in the case I would love to be able to switch to a trackpad approach of navigating the screen.
4.) Keyboard. Moreso than a bluetooth keyboard I would love something that can get its power from the tablet itself.
5.) High quality materials. I don't want flimsy faux leather or plastic. Metals would be preferred.
Are there any products that match some or all of the things I want in a case? Money isn't really an object provided it doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Things like having a track pad, the wide angle range, and a keyboard that gets its power from the device (usually you would want vice-versa) is probably something your only going to find with a Asus transformer pad and its keyboard dock. I don't think such a thing will ever exist for this tablet. The best you can do is a bluetooth keyboard and a bluetooth mouse.
Hey guys, I've torn down a few things on here before (it's been a while, like GNex while) and I wanted to show everyone the guts of nVidia's new hardware, the Shield TV 2017 and their new angular controller.
Disclaimer: THIS IS NOT A TEARDOWN GUIDE. If you decide to disassemble your own Shield TV and/or controller, you do so AT YOUR OWN RISK. I am a professional electronic device repair technician, I handle top of the line phones worth $800+ and $3000+ computers all day long, I KNOW WHAT I AM DOING. If you've never disassembled a TV remote, I highly advice against you opening your expensive triple figure phone/STB/tablet/computer. YOU WILL BREAK IT.
Since I remember reading threads about the original Shield TV and adding a HDD to the base model (it had the room and the bracket and the solder connections) maybe this will help some people in attempting to accomplish the same, perhaps with an m.2 drive since the 2017 base model is considerably smaller.
Shield TV 2017 pics
Shield Controller 2017 pics
The main reason I decided to do a teardown is because my 2017 controller had a sticky left D-Pad key. Turns out there was some soldering flux on the left trigger solder points that would contact the farthest edge of the plastic of the D-Pad. I used some isopropyl alcohol to clean it up and it's all better. I then felt it was necessary to teardown the Shield TV as well. I'm also hoping that someone with the Pro model of the 2017 Shield TV can enlighten me as to where the IR sensor is located, that way I can attempt to get it to work with my Logitech Harmony remote. I was not aware that the base model did NOT have the IR functionality when I purchased it.
Thoughts: Overall it looks pretty tidy. I'm not a fan of the weights added into the Shield TV. It's a set top box and will likely never move once set up. It's not uncommon for laptop manufacturers to add weights to cheaper laptops to make them feel less cheap (I'm looking at you, Toshiba) so it's nothing new. The one thing that concerns me the most is the headphone jack on the daughter board of the controller. The backside of the board solder connections have little to no solder flowing through the holes. Could be shoddy craftsmanship or a low wave-solder tank, who knows. But since it's potentially a high-wear item, it could weaken the strength of the connection and cause it to wear out prematurely. I'm impressed with it's capabilities and it has taken my then 3-device streaming setup to a single device. I even managed to get rid of my older slow and clunky Harmony 650 remote and I can do everything I need except access my TV's menu options with the Shield TV remote.
Enjoy. If you have questions let me know. All pics were taken with my Nexus 6P.
warglock said:
Hey guys, I've torn down a few things on here before (it's been a while, like GNex while) and I wanted to show everyone the guts of nVidia's new hardware, the Shield TV 2017 and their new angular controller.
Disclaimer: THIS IS NOT A TEARDOWN GUIDE. If you decide to disassemble your own Shield TV and/or controller, you do so AT YOUR OWN RISK. I am a professional electronic device repair technician, I handle top of the line phones worth $800+ and $3000+ computers all day long, I KNOW WHAT I AM DOING. If you've never disassembled a TV remote, I highly advice against you opening your expensive triple figure phone/STB/tablet/computer. YOU WILL BREAK IT.
Since I remember reading threads about the original Shield TV and adding a HDD to the base model (it had the room and the bracket and the solder connections) maybe this will help some people in attempting to accomplish the same, perhaps with an m.2 drive since the 2017 base model is considerably smaller.
Shield TV 2017 pics
Shield Controller 2017 pics
The main reason I decided to do a teardown is because my 2017 controller had a sticky left D-Pad key. Turns out there was some soldering flux on the left trigger solder points that would contact the farthest edge of the plastic of the D-Pad. I used some isopropyl alcohol to clean it up and it's all better. I then felt it was necessary to teardown the Shield TV as well. I'm also hoping that someone with the Pro model of the 2017 Shield TV can enlighten me as to where the IR sensor is located, that way I can attempt to get it to work with my Logitech Harmony remote. I was not aware that the base model did NOT have the IR functionality when I purchased it.
Thoughts: Overall it looks pretty tidy. I'm not a fan of the weights added into the Shield TV. It's a set top box and will likely never move once set up. It's not uncommon for laptop manufacturers to add weights to cheaper laptops to make them feel less cheap (I'm looking at you, Toshiba) so it's nothing new. The one thing that concerns me the most is the headphone jack on the daughter board of the controller. The backside of the board solder connections have little to no solder flowing through the holes. Could be shoddy craftsmanship or a low wave-solder tank, who knows. But since it's potentially a high-wear item, it could weaken the strength of the connection and cause it to wear out prematurely. I'm impressed with it's capabilities and it has taken my then 3-device streaming setup to a single device. I even managed to get rid of my older slow and clunky Harmony 650 remote and I can do everything I need except access my TV's menu options with the Shield TV remote.
Enjoy. If you have questions let me know. All pics were taken with my Nexus 6P.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have teardown of the remote control? I had problem with the dpad_center, and want to rework it.
p.s. just want to take a look if that is some design problem or anything else, my dpad_center don't have response if I press it too light, even I can feel the "click"
I can see if it opens easily, but since there are no screws I'm hesitant to open the remote since I actually use it. My left D-pad key is sticky, I suspect some leftover soldering flux just like on my controller. If it's not responding at all, perhaps contacting nVidia would be your best option. If they send you a new remote and don't ask you to return the defective one, please send it to me and I can do a teardown on that.
I'll update when I get home from work.
warglock said:
I can see if it opens easily, but since there are no screws I'm hesitant to open the remote since I actually use it. My left D-pad key is sticky, I suspect some leftover soldering flux just like on my controller. If it's not responding at all, perhaps contacting nVidia would be your best option. If they send you a new remote and don't ask you to return the defective one, please send it to me and I can do a teardown on that.
I'll update when I get home from work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had try to open it today, it quite hard, there a 3~4 "hook" on each side of the front cover, and those "hook" are not at the edge, it is about 1 mm away the edge and they seems hook on the mainboard, and the mainboard screw on the back cover , and the hook is toward center. I can open the top and both side, but the bottom near the battery opening is too hard for me.
About the IR of this remote I saw a transparent bulb (should be the IR ) and another white one next to it, may be this remote can learn some IR code?
The front cover of the remote is really thin but not as easily to broken as I think.
p.s. sorry for my broken English, nVidia said I need to return the remote but currently I am out of country, it will take few months to do the RMA for me
DummyPLUG said:
I had try to open it today, it quite hard, there a 3~4 "hook" on each side of the front cover, and those "hook" are not at the edge, it is about 1 mm away the edge and they seems hook on the mainboard, and the mainboard screw on the back cover , and the hook is toward center. I can open the top and both side, but the bottom near the battery opening is too hard for me.
About the IR of this remote I saw a transparent bulb (should be the IR ) and another white one next to it, may be this remote can learn some IR code?
The front cover of the remote is really thin but not as easily to broken as I think.
p.s. sorry for my broken English, nVidia said I need to return the remote but currently I am out of country, it will take few months to do the RMA for me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The remote can learn how to turn on/off non HDMI-CEC-devices. I use it to turn on my TV (not cec capable, sadly) AND my NAD Amplifier, they turn on instantly when I switch on the shield from sleep mode.
Also it can control volume of my TV and Amp without CEC via IR, although only one of them at a time. You can train the remote the IR signals in the settings app, I think it was in the screen and sound part of the settings.
Screw size , Torx screw driver size
Hello thank you for sharing your nvidia shield adventure.
I personally appreciate the photos.
I will like to know what size screwdriver I need to open the controller. Thank you.
I have the same 2017 model.
tyokoza said:
Hello thank you for sharing your nvidia shield adventure.
I personally appreciate the photos.
I will like to know what size screwdriver I need to open the controller. Thank you.
I have the same 2017 model.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For anyone wondering, it's a T6 screwdriver.
So I've started my own Nexus 7 Tablet install for my 2014 Toyota Tacoma and thought I would create a post to show progress. I'm taking my time mostly for a lack of time, and I really want it to look good. I've been working on the interface (desktop), and found multiple ways to do it. I've had multiple looks.
I've also been working on the mount, which is nice. There seem to be two opinions on fixed or portable installs. I made my mount out of a double din dash kit. I bought some polyethylene plastic and tried to make it so the tablet sunk into the dash, but that was turning into a painful ugly mess. So I ending scrapping that and trying again. I mounted the plastic somewhat level with dash kit and then used some epoxy and bondo to smooth everything out, and painted it. I also used several different types of polyethylene with varying thickness, and mounted a phone/table mount so that it was flush with the back of the dash mount. Then I glued some foam over the top of it so it's hidden.
Next I'm working on the wiring, which seems like it's going to be the hardest part. As I work through that I'll post more.
Hello,
So originally I wanted the BETOP G1 but, the fact that the Ipega PG-9087 has buttons on the right side instead of having to use on screen ones, makes it more appealing to me.
Anyone using it with the mate 20 x?
https://www.amazon.com/IPEGA-PG9087-Wireless-Controller-Gamepad-Joystick/dp/B07CVT47BC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=mate+20+x+controller&qid=1558474696&s=electronics&sr=1-4
Thanks
shaolin95 said:
Hello,
So originally I wanted the BETOP G1 but, the fact that the Ipega PG-9087 has buttons on the right side instead of having to use on screen ones, makes it more appealing to me.
Anyone using it with the mate 20 x?
https://www.amazon.com/IPEGA-PG9087-Wireless-Controller-Gamepad-Joystick/dp/B07CVT47BC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=mate+20+x+controller&qid=1558474696&s=electronics&sr=1-4
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been looking for a telescopic bluetooth controller myself since a couple of months now, I even had my eye on the Ipega.
The issue however is that the mate 20 x is too big (174×85×8) to fit in any of these controllers except the bulky ipega 9083. The extension of the ipega 9087 is 4mm too short.
gothikserpent said:
I've been looking for a telescopic bluetooth controller myself since a couple of months now, I even had my eye on the Ipega.
The issue however is that the mate 20 x is too big (174×85×8) to fit in any of these controllers except the bulky ipega 9083. The extension of the ipega 9087 is 4mm too short.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, it was odd because they replied to an amazon member saying it would fit yet on another reply when they said the dimensions that it could work with it was clearly not big enough for the mate 20x. So I emailed them and indeed it wont work so I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IMSVVTU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So far so good.
shaolin95 said:
Yeah, it was odd because they replied to an amazon member saying it would fit yet on another reply when they said the dimensions that it could work with it was clearly not big enough for the mate 20x. So I emailed them and indeed it wont work so I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IMSVVTU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So far so good.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been using my gamesir 3gs that I already owned but i'm still waiting for telescopic gamepad that fits : https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Wi...id=1559249417&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spell&th=1
The phone does fit once you remove the top rubber grip from the mount, but given the weight of the mate 20x it can feel top heavy after long gaming sessions.
gothikserpent said:
I've been using my gamesir 3gs that I already owned but i'm still waiting for telescopic gamepad that fits : https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Wi...id=1559249417&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spell&th=1
The phone does fit once you remove the top rubber grip from the mount, but given the weight of the mate 20x it can feel top heavy after long gaming sessions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool. On mine it fits as long as I don't have any case on it
Ipega 9087 is bulky but I guess its the only option we have.
Has anyone found a telescopic controller that fits mate 20 X?
Ι don't like the fact that betop g1 is only for the left analog stick.
Thanks
I have both iPega 9083 and Betop G1 controllers. My game of choice is is Rangers of Oblivion.
- I prefer the 9083 overall for combat due to the right-side controls, but as other users have said it it bulky and takes up more space in my bag. You also can't easily reprogram buttons to cater for games with non-native support for gamepads.
- the G1 on the other hand is small, light and easy to carry around and charge (USB-C). But the lack of 2-side controls makes combat harder due to lack of tactile feedback buttons. But on the other hand, you can use it for any game with it's own in-built software to program buttons.
I finally found a Bluetooth controller that will accommodate the mate 20 x : http://glap.co.kr/en/index.php
Its the Glap controller designed in collaboration with Samsung. It can be seen in the ads for the note 10.
Though it's designed for Samsung phones, it can be used on any other android phone. Here is a video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nl30gMy9I4
The only thing holding me back is the price; starting at 80 dollars I have a hard time forking out the cash.
If anybody pulls the trigger let me know what you think.
gothikserpent said:
I finally found a Bluetooth controller that will accommodate the mate 20 x : http://glap.co.kr/en/index.php
Its the Glap controller designed in collaboration with Samsung. It can be seen in the ads for the note 10.
Though it's designed for Samsung phones, it can be used on any other android phone. Here is a video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0nl30gMy9I4
The only thing holding me back is the price; starting at 80 dollars I have a hard time forking out the cash.
If anybody pulls the trigger let me know what you think.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So it fits the 20x width? Also I dont see how I could wear the headphones so BT would be the only option for audio I suppose.
Looks really sleek though.
shaolin95 said:
So it fits the 20x width? Also I dont see how I could wear the headphones so BT would be the only option for audio I suppose.
Looks really sleek though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This gamepad supports any Android smartphone with a screen size up to 7.5 inches / 10.1mm thick so it should work with the mate 20 x even with a case on.
gothikserpent said:
This gamepad supports any Android smartphone with a screen size up to 7.5 inches / 10.1mm thick so it should work with the mate 20 x even with a case on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw the video now. In the photos it looked like there was border surrounding the phone to fit it there
shaolin95 said:
I saw the video now. In the photos it looked like there was border surrounding the phone to fit it there
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The border is only at the bottom to prevent the phone from falling.
I'm looking to buy a Mercedes ML63 AMG from 2012 and trying to find a unit that'll fit instead of the old one. Obviously MTCx one. Checked Dasaita that I know sells primarily MTCx units but they didn't seem to have one that fits the car. Any advise?