[TEARDOWN] Shield TV 2017 and new controller - Shield Android TV General

Hey guys, I've torn down a few things on here before (it's been a while, like GNex while) and I wanted to show everyone the guts of nVidia's new hardware, the Shield TV 2017 and their new angular controller.
Disclaimer: THIS IS NOT A TEARDOWN GUIDE. If you decide to disassemble your own Shield TV and/or controller, you do so AT YOUR OWN RISK. I am a professional electronic device repair technician, I handle top of the line phones worth $800+ and $3000+ computers all day long, I KNOW WHAT I AM DOING. If you've never disassembled a TV remote, I highly advice against you opening your expensive triple figure phone/STB/tablet/computer. YOU WILL BREAK IT.
Since I remember reading threads about the original Shield TV and adding a HDD to the base model (it had the room and the bracket and the solder connections) maybe this will help some people in attempting to accomplish the same, perhaps with an m.2 drive since the 2017 base model is considerably smaller.
Shield TV 2017 pics
Shield Controller 2017 pics
The main reason I decided to do a teardown is because my 2017 controller had a sticky left D-Pad key. Turns out there was some soldering flux on the left trigger solder points that would contact the farthest edge of the plastic of the D-Pad. I used some isopropyl alcohol to clean it up and it's all better. I then felt it was necessary to teardown the Shield TV as well. I'm also hoping that someone with the Pro model of the 2017 Shield TV can enlighten me as to where the IR sensor is located, that way I can attempt to get it to work with my Logitech Harmony remote. I was not aware that the base model did NOT have the IR functionality when I purchased it.
Thoughts: Overall it looks pretty tidy. I'm not a fan of the weights added into the Shield TV. It's a set top box and will likely never move once set up. It's not uncommon for laptop manufacturers to add weights to cheaper laptops to make them feel less cheap (I'm looking at you, Toshiba) so it's nothing new. The one thing that concerns me the most is the headphone jack on the daughter board of the controller. The backside of the board solder connections have little to no solder flowing through the holes. Could be shoddy craftsmanship or a low wave-solder tank, who knows. But since it's potentially a high-wear item, it could weaken the strength of the connection and cause it to wear out prematurely. I'm impressed with it's capabilities and it has taken my then 3-device streaming setup to a single device. I even managed to get rid of my older slow and clunky Harmony 650 remote and I can do everything I need except access my TV's menu options with the Shield TV remote.
Enjoy. If you have questions let me know. All pics were taken with my Nexus 6P.

warglock said:
Hey guys, I've torn down a few things on here before (it's been a while, like GNex while) and I wanted to show everyone the guts of nVidia's new hardware, the Shield TV 2017 and their new angular controller.
Disclaimer: THIS IS NOT A TEARDOWN GUIDE. If you decide to disassemble your own Shield TV and/or controller, you do so AT YOUR OWN RISK. I am a professional electronic device repair technician, I handle top of the line phones worth $800+ and $3000+ computers all day long, I KNOW WHAT I AM DOING. If you've never disassembled a TV remote, I highly advice against you opening your expensive triple figure phone/STB/tablet/computer. YOU WILL BREAK IT.
Since I remember reading threads about the original Shield TV and adding a HDD to the base model (it had the room and the bracket and the solder connections) maybe this will help some people in attempting to accomplish the same, perhaps with an m.2 drive since the 2017 base model is considerably smaller.
Shield TV 2017 pics
Shield Controller 2017 pics
The main reason I decided to do a teardown is because my 2017 controller had a sticky left D-Pad key. Turns out there was some soldering flux on the left trigger solder points that would contact the farthest edge of the plastic of the D-Pad. I used some isopropyl alcohol to clean it up and it's all better. I then felt it was necessary to teardown the Shield TV as well. I'm also hoping that someone with the Pro model of the 2017 Shield TV can enlighten me as to where the IR sensor is located, that way I can attempt to get it to work with my Logitech Harmony remote. I was not aware that the base model did NOT have the IR functionality when I purchased it.
Thoughts: Overall it looks pretty tidy. I'm not a fan of the weights added into the Shield TV. It's a set top box and will likely never move once set up. It's not uncommon for laptop manufacturers to add weights to cheaper laptops to make them feel less cheap (I'm looking at you, Toshiba) so it's nothing new. The one thing that concerns me the most is the headphone jack on the daughter board of the controller. The backside of the board solder connections have little to no solder flowing through the holes. Could be shoddy craftsmanship or a low wave-solder tank, who knows. But since it's potentially a high-wear item, it could weaken the strength of the connection and cause it to wear out prematurely. I'm impressed with it's capabilities and it has taken my then 3-device streaming setup to a single device. I even managed to get rid of my older slow and clunky Harmony 650 remote and I can do everything I need except access my TV's menu options with the Shield TV remote.
Enjoy. If you have questions let me know. All pics were taken with my Nexus 6P.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have teardown of the remote control? I had problem with the dpad_center, and want to rework it.
p.s. just want to take a look if that is some design problem or anything else, my dpad_center don't have response if I press it too light, even I can feel the "click"

I can see if it opens easily, but since there are no screws I'm hesitant to open the remote since I actually use it. My left D-pad key is sticky, I suspect some leftover soldering flux just like on my controller. If it's not responding at all, perhaps contacting nVidia would be your best option. If they send you a new remote and don't ask you to return the defective one, please send it to me and I can do a teardown on that.
I'll update when I get home from work.

warglock said:
I can see if it opens easily, but since there are no screws I'm hesitant to open the remote since I actually use it. My left D-pad key is sticky, I suspect some leftover soldering flux just like on my controller. If it's not responding at all, perhaps contacting nVidia would be your best option. If they send you a new remote and don't ask you to return the defective one, please send it to me and I can do a teardown on that.
I'll update when I get home from work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had try to open it today, it quite hard, there a 3~4 "hook" on each side of the front cover, and those "hook" are not at the edge, it is about 1 mm away the edge and they seems hook on the mainboard, and the mainboard screw on the back cover , and the hook is toward center. I can open the top and both side, but the bottom near the battery opening is too hard for me.
About the IR of this remote I saw a transparent bulb (should be the IR ) and another white one next to it, may be this remote can learn some IR code?
The front cover of the remote is really thin but not as easily to broken as I think.
p.s. sorry for my broken English, nVidia said I need to return the remote but currently I am out of country, it will take few months to do the RMA for me

DummyPLUG said:
I had try to open it today, it quite hard, there a 3~4 "hook" on each side of the front cover, and those "hook" are not at the edge, it is about 1 mm away the edge and they seems hook on the mainboard, and the mainboard screw on the back cover , and the hook is toward center. I can open the top and both side, but the bottom near the battery opening is too hard for me.
About the IR of this remote I saw a transparent bulb (should be the IR ) and another white one next to it, may be this remote can learn some IR code?
The front cover of the remote is really thin but not as easily to broken as I think.
p.s. sorry for my broken English, nVidia said I need to return the remote but currently I am out of country, it will take few months to do the RMA for me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The remote can learn how to turn on/off non HDMI-CEC-devices. I use it to turn on my TV (not cec capable, sadly) AND my NAD Amplifier, they turn on instantly when I switch on the shield from sleep mode.
Also it can control volume of my TV and Amp without CEC via IR, although only one of them at a time. You can train the remote the IR signals in the settings app, I think it was in the screen and sound part of the settings.

Screw size , Torx screw driver size
Hello thank you for sharing your nvidia shield adventure.
I personally appreciate the photos.
I will like to know what size screwdriver I need to open the controller. Thank you.
I have the same 2017 model.

tyokoza said:
Hello thank you for sharing your nvidia shield adventure.
I personally appreciate the photos.
I will like to know what size screwdriver I need to open the controller. Thank you.
I have the same 2017 model.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For anyone wondering, it's a T6 screwdriver.

Related

[Q] Game Controller GRIP(s) for SG2 !?

Greetings,
I'm an Android newbie and just got my Galaxy S2 last week...
Consider me being a video game-o-holic you can understand why I developed a sever case of finger spasms/reduced manual functions over the past few days
I wonder if someone tried one of these "GAME CONTROLLER GRIP / GAME PAD CONTROLLER" seen at eBay (mostly for the iPhone though...).
Is there something suitable for the SG2 as well?
Perhaps the iPhone models can be modified for the Galaxy !?
Gal
(I can't post direct links yet..sorry...)
i think one is icontrolpad, not sure who makes it but seen a few youtube vids , there's another type i forgot the name
iControlPad will work, but I don't think it can grip the SGSII (despite having a couple of sizes of side-grips). The other one is the Phonejoy, I have one, works great (although only the emulators and Gamevil titles will work with it, enough for me, but perhaps not others).
Actually - I've been looking for a more "passive" controller similar to the images I posted.
It's probably no more than "ergonomically" designed cover for the phone, hence, fully compatible with any game/app - especially in horizontal mode...
Its cheap and seem to make playing more comfortable then holding a bare phone...
BTW - looking at the "Phonejoy" ... I couldn't help myself thinking its probably feasible to utilize a more "universal" solution to work with other ,commonly available, BT controllers - perhaps with few bits of code trickery from an XDA wizard
!?!?!
Wouldn't it be cool?
Did I miss a similar existing project?
Gal
You could try this: http://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-Nintendo-SNES-controller-into-bluetooth-/
Basically, the guy took a BGP100's innards and interfaced it with an old SNES controller. Apparently it works quite well, and it seems he takes orders for building one for you.
iControlPad has a set of rubber sides coming soon that converts it into a plain Bluetooth controller without the clamps to hold a phone. SGS2-sized clamps aren't available yet.
Not quite sure what you meant by "passive" tho.
-Tj- said:
You could try this: http://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-Nintendo-SNES-controller-into-bluetooth-/
Basically, the guy took a BGP100's innards and interfaced it with an old SNES controller. Apparently it works quite well, and it seems he takes orders for building one for you.
iControlPad has a set of rubber sides coming soon that converts it into a plain Bluetooth controller without the clamps to hold a phone. SGS2-sized clamps aren't available yet.
Not quite sure what you meant by "passive" tho.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you don't mind me asking, how do you know that info about the iControlPad? Anybody here tried the iControlPad with a SGS2?
BTW I contacted the Phonejoy dealer, and apparently he is hoping to be selling a new model based on the PS3 controller (IE: with added analog sticks) early next month!
That info is available at the iControlPad website.

[Q] Magnetic fridge mount?

I'm getting a free Galaxy Tab 3 as a promotion from Time Warner Cable (which I assume is the 7" version based on the statement on their website that says "$199 value") and thought it would be kind of cool to use it for recipes. The idea is that I would use Pepperplate, and use Smart App Protector to keep the screen on while Pepperplate is open. The part I haven't decide on is where to put it. At this point, the most practical thing seems to be to get a case that has strong magnets fastened to the back, which could remain on the tablet at all times, and when I want to use it to cook with I could just slap it on the fridge. But I haven't been able to find any cases that seem to fit this need. Does anyone have any suggestions for this? Or suggestions for a case that may be ideal to Gorilla Glue some neodymium magnets too?
The under-the-counter mounts don't seem to be a good solution because I would like this to be portable when it needs to be. Also, I'd love to hear if anyone has any suggestions on how to implement some method of charging while it's on the fridge, though this is not too important to me and is more of a curiosity than anything else. I was thinking perhaps if the tablet is capable of wireless charging, having magnets around the edge and a wireless charging base on the fridge that would go in the center, then trying to find a way to run the cord along the edge of the fridge door. And if it has NFC (which unfortunately it looks like it may not) perhaps I could have a tag on the fridge that would trigger Pepperplate to launch.
This is all just for fun, but it would be really neat to have some sort of set up where I could just slap the tablet on the fridge and have it do its thing. The biggest priority is finding a case that would be magnetic or easily modified to be magnetic. Any input is welcome. Thanks!
Super Sam Galaxy said:
I'm getting a free Galaxy Tab 3 as a promotion from Time Warner Cable (which I assume is the 7" version based on the statement on their website that says "$199 value") and thought it would be kind of cool to use it for recipes. The idea is that I would use Pepperplate, and use Smart App Protector to keep the screen on while Pepperplate is open. The part I haven't decide on is where to put it. At this point, the most practical thing seems to be to get a case that has strong magnets fastened to the back, which could remain on the tablet at all times, and when I want to use it to cook with I could just slap it on the fridge. But I haven't been able to find any cases that seem to fit this need. Does anyone have any suggestions for this? Or suggestions for a case that may be ideal to Gorilla Glue some neodymium magnets too?
The under-the-counter mounts don't seem to be a good solution because I would like this to be portable when it needs to be. Also, I'd love to hear if anyone has any suggestions on how to implement some method of charging while it's on the fridge, though this is not too important to me and is more of a curiosity than anything else. I was thinking perhaps if the tablet is capable of wireless charging, having magnets around the edge and a wireless charging base on the fridge that would go in the center, then trying to find a way to run the cord along the edge of the fridge door. And if it has NFC (which unfortunately it looks like it may not) perhaps I could have a tag on the fridge that would trigger Pepperplate to launch.
This is all just for fun, but it would be really neat to have some sort of set up where I could just slap the tablet on the fridge and have it do its thing. The biggest priority is finding a case that would be magnetic or easily modified to be magnetic. Any input is welcome. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
here's how I would do it...
Get yourself a (or 2) cheap TPU cases. I have one called BoxWave. 5-6 bucks.... Ebay or Amazon
A semi flexible stiff rubber (TPU) case that the Tab gets fitted into..just like the supersoft silicone cases, but the TPU material is alot stiffer, but still flexible enough to get it on and off your tab easily..
then get peel and stick magnet strips for any hardware store..Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, True Value, Ace... wherever
Stick the magnets to the TPU case and let them set up for 24 hours before putting the Tab in it and putting weight on it..
if youre scared..
Gorrilia glue will work too.. remember.. it's just a cheap case and worth the sacrifice..
Then there ya go!! slip the Tab into the case and stick the Tab on the Fridge!!!
Good luck and be sure to post Pictures of your success!!
jimmbomb said:
here's how I would do it...
Get yourself a (or 2) cheap TPU cases. I have one called BoxWave. 5-6 bucks.... Ebay or Amazon
A semi flexible stiff rubber (TPU) case that the Tab gets fitted into..just like the supersoft silicone cases, but the TPU material is alot stiffer, but still flexible enough to get it on and off your tab easily..
then get peel and stick magnet strips for any hardware store..Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, True Value, Ace... wherever
Stick the magnets to the TPU case and let them set up for 24 hours before putting the Tab in it and putting weight on it..
if youre scared..
Gorrilia glue will work too.. remember.. it's just a cheap case and worth the sacrifice..
Then there ya go!! slip the Tab into the case and stick the Tab on the Fridge!!!
Good luck and be sure to post Pictures of your success!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That sounds like a fantastic way to do it. I was very uneasy about magnets because of two things: the first is that I was afraid they would separate and the other is that I thought I'd need magnets so strong they may damage the tablet. Gorilla gluing them to a case is perfect because it's strong, doesn't damage the tablet, and doesn't require ridiculously strong magnets like I'd need if I had something like a metal plate inside the tablet that the magnets would need to stick to. I wish I'd seen this post a few days ago, because as it turns out I have already started another plan, which I've already ordered the parts for, but I'm strongly considering cancelling my order to give your method a try. The one thing that makes me hesitate is that with the new plan, I've come up with a way to hide the cord, whereas I was unable to think of a way to do this when it's on the fridge.
Here's what I put together: I have a cabinet directly on the left of my stove (as opposed to the fridge which is directly to the right of it). The cabinet starts about a foot and a half off the ground and comes up to about my neck. The idea is to mount it on the cabinet door and hide the cord in the cabinet, and the specifics are as follows. There's no power source inside the cabinet, so I was going to drill an extension cord sized hole in the back base of the cabinet to slip an extension cord into. Then I'd drill another (smaller) hole in the door for the micro USB end of the charging cable. Next, I'd put the power cable together, and it consists of 3 parts. The extension cord, a USB-to-power adapter, and a micro USB to USB flat cable that I've orderd. I ordered a flat one so it can go behind the tablet without being very visible. So once I have cleared a path for the cord and put it together, I'll run the cord from the wall to the hole in the door, and staple it along the edges everywhere in between so it's not in the way. Finally, I'll mount a TPU case on the top part of the door by drilling holes and screwing it in, securing it with hex fasteners on the other side of the door. I've included a simple MS Paint rough draft of what the finished product will look like.
The idea is that it will be mounted on the door, the cords won't be visible, and it will always be connected to a power source (unless I remove it temporarily). I'm not too worried about frying the battery since there are not many instances that would require me to remove it from power so as to rely on the battery. I hate to be so OCD but visible cords are a bit of a bother to me. However, if you have any ideas as to how I may hide them with the method you mentioned I'd be happy to hear them since your method sounds far easier and less destructive, and probably an all around better option if it weren't for those pesky cords! Also, since my tablet hasn't arrived yet I can't check this for myself: (if you have the same tablet) does the Galaxy Tab 3 7.0 have NFC capabilities? I couldn't find anything saying it did, but I couldn't find anything saying it didn't either. If so, I'd put an NFC sticker on the inside of the case and create a set of tasks in Tasker so that when I put it in its home it goes into "Kitchen Mode". Anyway, thanks for all your help and suggestions, and whatever I end up doing I will definitely post a few pics to show it off!
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Super Sam Galaxy said:
That sounds like a fantastic way to do it. I was very uneasy about magnets because of two things: the first is that I was afraid they would separate and the other is that I thought I'd need magnets so strong they may damage the tablet. Gorilla gluing them to a case is perfect because it's strong, doesn't damage the tablet, and doesn't require ridiculously strong magnets like I'd need if I had something like a metal plate inside the tablet that the magnets would need to stick to. I wish I'd seen this post a few days ago, because as it turns out I have already started another plan, which I've already ordered the parts for, but I'm strongly considering cancelling my order to give your method a try. The one thing that makes me hesitate is that with the new plan, I've come up with a way to hide the cord, whereas I was unable to think of a way to do this when it's on the fridge.
Here's what I put together: I have a cabinet directly on the left of my stove (as opposed to the fridge which is directly to the right of it). The cabinet starts about a foot and a half off the ground and comes up to about my neck. The idea is to mount it on the cabinet door and hide the cord in the cabinet, and the specifics are as follows. There's no power source inside the cabinet, so I was going to drill an extension cord sized hole in the back base of the cabinet to slip an extension cord into. Then I'd drill another (smaller) hole in the door for the micro USB end of the charging cable. Next, I'd put the power cable together, and it consists of 3 parts. The extension cord, a USB-to-power adapter, and a micro USB to USB flat cable that I've orderd. I ordered a flat one so it can go behind the tablet without being very visible. So once I have cleared a path for the cord and put it together, I'll run the cord from the wall to the hole in the door, and staple it along the edges everywhere in between so it's not in the way. Finally, I'll mount a TPU case on the top part of the door by drilling holes and screwing it in, securing it with hex fasteners on the other side of the door. I've included a simple MS Paint rough draft of what the finished product will look like.
The idea is that it will be mounted on the door, the cords won't be visible, and it will always be connected to a power source (unless I remove it temporarily). I'm not too worried about frying the battery since there are not many instances that would require me to remove it from power so as to rely on the battery. I hate to be so OCD but visible cords are a bit of a bother to me. However, if you have any ideas as to how I may hide them with the method you mentioned I'd be happy to hear them since your method sounds far easier and less destructive, and probably an all around better option if it weren't for those pesky cords! Also, since my tablet hasn't arrived yet I can't check this for myself: (if you have the same tablet) does the Galaxy Tab 3 7.0 have NFC capabilities? I couldn't find anything saying it did, but I couldn't find anything saying it didn't either. If so, I'd put an NFC sticker on the inside of the case and create a set of tasks in Tasker so that when I put it in its home it goes into "Kitchen Mode". Anyway, thanks for all your help and suggestions, and whatever I end up doing I will definitely post a few pics to show it off!
Yes.. I can see that fastening a tpu case to the cabinet door would work out good... and hiding your cord is a neet way too... too bad that your cabinet door will have to have a huge hole it it behind the Tab...
Maybe mount the TPU closer to the edge and run the Micro USB out of the tab, and a U-turn BEHIND the cabinet door instead of thru it.. your tab will be off center from the cabinet door... but and now remember... it's stuck there. when you pull your tab out.. you'll have an empty TPU case with 4 screws hanging on your cabinet door.
Ive seen stick on magnet strips here about 1"X4".. peel and stick.... I think 4 of those on a TPU case... perfect.. cause you can snatch it off the fridge anytime. carry it away.. stick it to the stove hood..... anywhere.... screwing to a door is semi permanant.. .. Ill go so far as to suggest 2 TPU's... one magnets on the back.. and 1 screwed to the cabinet door.
Subscribe to this thread and it will notify you of replies immediately....
good luck.. keep the ideas comming...
by the way... I thought we were talking about the 8 inch tab3 not the 7,,,,, my bad... I have an 8 incher
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
jimmbomb said:
Super Sam Galaxy said:
That sounds like a fantastic way to do it. I was very uneasy about magnets because of two things: the first is that I was afraid they would separate and the other is that I thought I'd need magnets so strong they may damage the tablet. Gorilla gluing them to a case is perfect because it's strong, doesn't damage the tablet, and doesn't require ridiculously strong magnets like I'd need if I had something like a metal plate inside the tablet that the magnets would need to stick to. I wish I'd seen this post a few days ago, because as it turns out I have already started another plan, which I've already ordered the parts for, but I'm strongly considering cancelling my order to give your method a try. The one thing that makes me hesitate is that with the new plan, I've come up with a way to hide the cord, whereas I was unable to think of a way to do this when it's on the fridge.
Here's what I put together: I have a cabinet directly on the left of my stove (as opposed to the fridge which is directly to the right of it). The cabinet starts about a foot and a half off the ground and comes up to about my neck. The idea is to mount it on the cabinet door and hide the cord in the cabinet, and the specifics are as follows. There's no power source inside the cabinet, so I was going to drill an extension cord sized hole in the back base of the cabinet to slip an extension cord into. Then I'd drill another (smaller) hole in the door for the micro USB end of the charging cable. Next, I'd put the power cable together, and it consists of 3 parts. The extension cord, a USB-to-power adapter, and a micro USB to USB flat cable that I've orderd. I ordered a flat one so it can go behind the tablet without being very visible. So once I have cleared a path for the cord and put it together, I'll run the cord from the wall to the hole in the door, and staple it along the edges everywhere in between so it's not in the way. Finally, I'll mount a TPU case on the top part of the door by drilling holes and screwing it in, securing it with hex fasteners on the other side of the door. I've included a simple MS Paint rough draft of what the finished product will look like.
The idea is that it will be mounted on the door, the cords won't be visible, and it will always be connected to a power source (unless I remove it temporarily). I'm not too worried about frying the battery since there are not many instances that would require me to remove it from power so as to rely on the battery. I hate to be so OCD but visible cords are a bit of a bother to me. However, if you have any ideas as to how I may hide them with the method you mentioned I'd be happy to hear them since your method sounds far easier and less destructive, and probably an all around better option if it weren't for those pesky cords! Also, since my tablet hasn't arrived yet I can't check this for myself: (if you have the same tablet) does the Galaxy Tab 3 7.0 have NFC capabilities? I couldn't find anything saying it did, but I couldn't find anything saying it didn't either. If so, I'd put an NFC sticker on the inside of the case and create a set of tasks in Tasker so that when I put it in its home it goes into "Kitchen Mode". Anyway, thanks for all your help and suggestions, and whatever I end up doing I will definitely post a few pics to show it off!
Yes.. I can see that fastening a tpu case to the cabinet door would work out good... and hiding your cord is a neet way too... too bad that your cabinet door will have to have a huge hole it it behind the Tab...
Maybe mount the TPU closer to the edge and run the Micro USB out of the tab, and a U-turn BEHIND the cabinet door instead of thru it.. your tab will be off center from the cabinet door... but and now remember... it's stuck there. when you pull your tab out.. you'll have an empty TPU case with 4 screws hanging on your cabinet door.
Ive seen stick on magnet strips here about 1"X4".. peel and stick.... I think 4 of those on a TPU case... perfect.. cause you can snatch it off the fridge anytime. carry it away.. stick it to the stove hood..... anywhere.... screwing to a door is semi permanant.. .. Ill go so far as to suggest 2 TPU's... one magnets on the back.. and 1 screwed to the cabinet door.
Subscribe to this thread and it will notify you of replies immediately....
good luck.. keep the ideas comming...
by the way... I thought we were talking about the 8 inch tab3 not the 7,,,,, my bad... I have an 8 incher
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do like the fact that your way doesn't involve destroying parts of my kitchen! I'm thinking now that if I find a way to fasten the USB cable to the fridge in a semi-permanent manner it may not be so bad... The cord is white, like the fridge, and with it being flat it may be less noticeable. I wonder how it would hold up with the door being open and closed, as in whether or not it would slide/fall from the repeated movement... This is going to be a tougher decision than I initially thought! At least there's time to figure it out, the tablet won't be here for like 2 months.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ill get me some stick on magnets soon and stick them to my TPU and test it out.
Ill post the results..
How come yours wont come in for 2 months? and are you getting the 7" or the 8"
Ive seen the tab3 -7"incher at Best Buy last weekend for only 49$$ but they want you to contract up on a data plan..
WEAK!!!!... I pull my ATT go phone sim out of my phone and jam it into my 315 and BAM!!! an 8" Galaxy phone with data, mms, and voice calls!!!
good luck
jimmbomb said:
ill get me some stick on magnets soon and stick them to my TPU and test it out.
Ill post the results..
How come yours wont come in for 2 months? and are you getting the 7" or the 8"
Ive seen the tab3 -7"incher at Best Buy last weekend for only 49$$ but they want you to contract up on a data plan..
WEAK!!!!... I pull my ATT go phone sim out of my phone and jam it into my 315 and BAM!!! an 8" Galaxy phone with data, mms, and voice calls!!!
good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please do post results! Sorry I didn't see the reply again, I did subscribe to the thread but I must have missed the email... now it's been a while! Anyway, the 2 month period is just one of the hoops TWC makes you go through to get something free. It will be the 7 inch tablet. I am actually on the phone with them now trying to get them to honor their agreement and it's like pulling teeth. But they are either going to give me a tablet or I'm not going to pay my bill for the next 3 months to make up the difference and I'll buy my own damn tablet! Anyway, I intend to post photos when it's done. I've got everything set up, I just need a table to go in the TPU case.
UPDATE: Just got off the phone with TWC after an hour and 36 minutes, and they told me that they are going to "pass my details to the correct department" and I'd get a call within "3-4 days". Funny, as I pointed out, that was the same thing they told me 8 days ago, after another equally long phone conversation. Anyway, to sum it up they are giving me a credit equal in value to the tablet and I'm debating between the Galaxy Tab 3 (7 inch), which was what the promotion originally offered, or the 2013 Nexus 7. The Nexus has gotten great reviews, is there anything about the Galaxy Tab that you'd recommend over the Nexus? I know I'm kind of getting off track here but I'm just curious.
Super Sam Galaxy said:
Please do post results! Sorry I didn't see the reply again, I did subscribe to the thread but I must have missed the email... now it's been a while! Anyway, the 2 month period is just one of the hoops TWC makes you go through to get something free. It will be the 7 inch tablet. I am actually on the phone with them now trying to get them to honor their agreement and it's like pulling teeth. But they are either going to give me a tablet or I'm not going to pay my bill for the next 3 months to make up the difference and I'll buy my own damn tablet! Anyway, I intend to post photos when it's done. I've got everything set up, I just need a table to go in the TPU case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well... after you vacated the thread, I figured you lost interest or just decided to drill holes in your cabinet door..
So, I didnt get any magnets.. BUT I will get them this weekend.. maybe tomorrow... Id like to shoot a video of it stuck to the fridge while opening anf closing... how to post it though??
jimmbomb said:
well... after you vacated the thread, I figured you lost interest or just decided to drill holes in your cabinet door..
So, I didnt get any magnets.. BUT I will get them this weekend.. maybe tomorrow... Id like to shoot a video of it stuck to the fridge while opening anf closing... how to post it though??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps upload to Youtube and send a link? Anyway, don't worry about it if it's a bother, but if you get a chance I'd be interested to see. I'll try to keep up with the thread better!
jimmbomb said:
well... after you vacated the thread, I figured you lost interest or just decided to drill holes in your cabinet door..
So, I didnt get any magnets.. BUT I will get them this weekend.. maybe tomorrow... Id like to shoot a video of it stuck to the fridge while opening anf closing... how to post it though??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also, here's a photo of the finished product (pending insertion of tablet). Let me know what you think.
Super Sam Galaxy said:
Also, here's a photo of the finished product (pending insertion of tablet). Let me know what you think.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well that looks pretty cool, now that sits right in the middle of your cabinet door? How did you mount the case to the door, I don't see any screws on the backside of the case that went through the cabinet door with I'm guessing nuts on the other side..I will look for the magnets today at to hardware stores on the way home from work
jimmbomb said:
well that looks pretty cool, now that sits right in the middle of your cabinet door? How did you mount the case to the door, I don't see any screws on the backside of the case that went through the cabinet door with I'm guessing nuts on the other side..I will look for the magnets today at to hardware stores on the way home from work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! It's actually a flip-cover case, so the screws are in the cover part, which is flipped over behind it. then I drilled a small hole for the micro USB cable and ran that along the edge of the inside of the cabinet. Now that I'm debating getting a Nexus 7 instead (TWC just gave me a credit to my account in the amount of the tablet, so I have up to $200 to go toward any tablet I want at this point) I'm considering using a wireless charging pad so all I have to do is place the tablet in the case, though not sure if that would work through a case. Still playing with ideas, and if I do the Nexus 7 then I'll need a new case, but thankfully, they're cheap!
Super Sam Galaxy said:
Thanks! It's actually a flip-cover case, so the screws are in the cover part, which is flipped over behind it. then I drilled a small hole for the micro USB cable and ran that along the edge of the inside of the cabinet. Now that I'm debating getting a Nexus 7 instead (TWC just gave me a credit to my account in the amount of the tablet, so I have up to $200 to go toward any tablet I want at this point) I'm considering using a wireless charging pad so all I have to do is place the tablet in the case, though not sure if that would work through a case. Still playing with ideas, and if I do the Nexus 7 then I'll need a new case, but thankfully, they're cheap!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok... lets try this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jD25aOvicI&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Now, my fridge finish is textured and not smooth. Kind of like a course orange peel,
So I think the grip was not as strong as if it were a smooth surface. If I were to keep this, I would go with a 1 inch wide magnet instead of a half inch which was $1.59 for 30 inches X 1/2".
Good luck!
jimmbomb said:
Ok... lets try this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jD25aOvicI&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Now, my fridge finish is textured and not smooth. Kind of like a course orange peel,
So I think the grip was not as strong as if it were a smooth surface. If I were to keep this, I would go with a 1 inch wide magnet instead of a half inch which was $1.59 for 30 inches X 1/2".
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks great! When you say the grip isn't as strong, I'm wondering, did it slide at all when you opened and shut the door? I didn't see any movement the first time you shut the fridge door and it didn't seem to be in a noticeably different location so I couldn't tell if it did, but that's my primary concern with the magnet method, so if it stays in place then that looks like a perfect solution.
On another topic, what app are you using for the dialer? As I understand it (correct me if I'm wrong), the tablet itself does not come with a dialer, and that was something I was planning on looking into down the road - particularly one that can be used with Google Voice. So my questions are 1) what is the name of the app and 2) does it allow Google Voice capabilities? I know that Google Voice is going to disable third party apps that use its service in a few months, but in the mean time it would be cool to use it to make calls.
Anyway, thanks for taking the time to make the video, and I really like how you have it set up.
Super Sam Galaxy said:
Looks great! When you say the grip isn't as strong, I'm wondering, did it slide at all when you opened and shut the door? I didn't see any movement the first time you shut the fridge door and it didn't seem to be in a noticeably different location so I couldn't tell if it did, but that's my primary concern with the magnet method, so if it stays in place then that looks like a perfect solution.
On another topic, what app are you using for the dialer? As I understand it (correct me if I'm wrong), the tablet itself does not come with a dialer, and that was something I was planning on looking into down the road - particularly one that can be used with Google Voice. So my questions are 1) what is the name of the app and 2) does it allow Google Voice capabilities? I know that Google Voice is going to disable third party apps that use its service in a few months, but in the mean time it would be cool to use it to make calls.
Anyway, thanks for taking the time to make the video, and I really like how you have it set up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like I said that my fridge has a textured finish, so the mags were not getting a solid grip.
It DID stay up there. I even shut the fridge door hard once to test it, but, I'm suspicious, so IF,
IF, I were to do this set up on MY fridge, I would double up on the mag area. & yes, It did NOT move when I had it, just that I wouldnt do it full time without doubling up on the mag area..
My SM-T315 8" Tab came with the Samsung dialer installed.. ya see... It's actually an 8 inch galaxy phone.
Does everything the phones do just in a larger screen.
It has a sim card slot... I take the sim out of my smaller phone (ATT) and slide the sim into the tab 3 8" and BAM!!! The tab is now my phone...
Phone , data plan, mms, everything now comes to the tab with my same number. No need for google voice.
it cost a bit more than the wifi only ones sold at the brick and mortars here in the USA, but, I like the phone and mms features.
good luck
Good luck..
jimmbomb said:
Like I said that my fridge has a textured finish, so the mags were not getting a solid grip.
It DID stay up there. I even shut the fridge door hard once to test it, but, I'm suspicious, so IF,
IF, I were to do this set up on MY fridge, I would double up on the mag area. & yes, It did NOT move when I had it, just that I wouldnt do it full time without doubling up on the mag area..
My SM-T315 8" Tab came with the Samsung dialer installed.. ya see... It's actually an 8 inch galaxy phone.
Does everything the phones do just in a larger screen.
It has a sim card slot... I take the sim out of my smaller phone (ATT) and slide the sim into the tab 3 8" and BAM!!! The tab is now my phone...
Phone , data plan, mms, everything now comes to the tab with my same number. No need for google voice.
it cost a bit more than the wifi only ones sold at the brick and mortars here in the USA, but, I like the phone and mms features.
good luck
Good luck..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's nice that it works as a phone out of the box. I use Google Voice as my primary number, which is a pain sometimes, but I like the fact that I can answer it from my mobile, my home phone and my computer, and when I call out from any of those it also shows the Google Voice number on caller ID to the person I'm calling (for the home phone, this is through Ooma Telo). Wish I could have the tablet work the same way in case it's closer when the phone rings. Did you have to order that through a special online service, or can you find that version on Amazon?
Super Sam Galaxy said:
That's nice that it works as a phone out of the box. I use Google Voice as my primary number, which is a pain sometimes, but I like the fact that I can answer it from my mobile, my home phone and my computer, and when I call out from any of those it also shows the Google Voice number on caller ID to the person I'm calling (for the home phone, this is through Ooma Telo). Wish I could have the tablet work the same way in case it's closer when the phone rings. Did you have to order that through a special online service, or can you find that version on Amazon?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe not Amazon.. I know they had the 311 which is the same but NON-LTE.... E bay has a bunch..
I got mine and all my international stuff from Negri Electronics. They operate in Las Vegas. Very good store and after the sale customer relations.
good luck deciding now.
jimmbomb said:
Maybe not Amazon.. I know they had the 311 which is the same but NON-LTE.... E bay has a bunch..
I got mine and all my international stuff from Negri Electronics. They operate in Las Vegas. Very good store and after the sale customer relations.
good luck deciding now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!
The nexus is a newer version of android but the galaxy has a SD card slot. A big plus in my mind.
Sent from my SM-T210 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Latheman said:
The nexus is a newer version of android but the galaxy has a SD card slot. A big plus in my mind.
Sent from my SM-T210 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree that removable storage is nice, but I wouldn't say it's a deal breaker for me because of the fact that I can get something like a Meenova to easily add more storage if I need to. At this point I'm leaning toward the Nexus because for this purpose, wireless charging capability seems more beneficial than removable storage simply due to the fact that it would be cool to not have a cord showing when it's mounted, and to not have to plug it/unplug it every time I want to take it down for a bit. Of course, the flip side is that instead of seeing a cord, I'd see the Meenova sticking out of it, but that doesn't seem as bad since I probably wouldn't need to have one in there all the time. Either way, I do appreciate the suggestion and I will certainly take into account the capability for removable storage when making my choice. Thanks!

Bear Motion Bluetooth Keyboard Case for Kindle HDX 7" review / impressions

Just received this afternoon (before Christmas, yeah!)
This is the "Bear Motion Premium Folio Leather Case with Detachable Keyboard" Purchased at $21.99 (Amazon Link) (Wait, they just sold out?)
The box is a very plain white box with orange highlights that bears (no pun intended) no brand name, just "Bluetooth Keyboard case" (for Kindle Fire HDX7)
Strangely, my box appears to have been opened, and the microUSB cable was left stuffed on top of the flap, but the device appears to be untouched. (Maybe it's for testing? Bear Motion claims they test every device)
Instructions (a tiny CD-jewelcase insert sized brochure) states that you should leave it charging for a couple hours. Their USB cord is a bit short, so I used my Kindle microUSB cable for charging.
The keyboard is just attached via magnet to the case, and is detachable, pretty firmly. I separated it to charge while I studied the case.
The case itself is made of "leather" and has a nice "foamy" backing that makes it somewhat spongy. I was momentarily flummoxed by how to insert my HDX, then I realized I have to open the hook-and-loop flap, slide the thing in from the bottom, then try to fit the flap back in to secure the HDX.
The case has nice big openings for the volume and the power button, as well as rear holes for the stereo speakers. It has a "jackstand" that pops out, but it does not have multiple angles. However, it appears to have metal backing instead of plastic that can break.
I inspected for broken stitches and such and cannot detect any at a cursory inspection.
Keyboard... looks quite generic. It is a basic keyboard, really squished together to fit on a 7 inch platform. I am a touch typist (85WPM) and I cannot touch type on that keyboard at all. None of the keys are in their proper positions, but then you don't really expect to touch type on this, do you? This is for the two-finger typists who need to enter more than usual text but don't want to touch the screen. I suspect those with the 8.9 inch version of this may have more luck. They also have versions for various Samsung devices and iPads.
Key feel is "meh". Tiny keys, tiny travel. Can't swear to durability as I've had it for less than 24 hours. Pairing per instructions is painless. Turn on Bluetooth and sync, turn keyboard on, and hit sync on keyboard... Tap, enter a code supplied by HDX, and voila, I am paired.
This is not a laptop replacement nor is it meant to be. It's a convenience keyboard that can help you enter more text than onscreen keyboard while you're on the go. If you want a BETTER Bluetooth keyboard, and don't care about the case, well, go buy a Microsoft Mobile Sculpt KB for $23.40. If you want to carry your keyboard with you... this is not a bad choice.
I'll check it out.

My Sony SW2 is dead

... Lasted about 3 months.
I was washing something in the sink with my SW2 on. I used a small amount of common household cleaner containing a bleach.
A few hours later, my watch was blank, and would not turn on. It would also not charge (As indicated by a USB test meter that showed little or no current when the watch was connected.)
I took it apart, and here are the results:
There is a rubber cover at the top left of the device (seen after removing the watch module from the plastic frame). This cover was mostly deteriorated. Likely from previous wear/sweat/washing, not this episode. I am not sure what the rubber cover is, but I guess there is a sensor there (pressure sensor?)
There is no seal on the plastic frame. Water/chemicals/sweat/dirt that gets between the frame and the watch module will stay against the rubber part.
The watch always fit poorly in the frame. It was very easy to remove.
Water, possibly containing dilute bleach entered either from either the deteriorated rubber cover, or the USB port (The USB port cover was properly closed, although it is not particularly soft, and not a material that is likely to form a good seal.)
The a small amount of water seems to have accumulated in the corner of the PC board, near a small square chip that I assume is power management. Some SMT discrete components in that area were affected by the water/chemicals, and were totally oxidized or gone.
Conclusion:
Obviously, I should have removed my watch before using the cleaner.
Simply press-fitting the watch into the plastic frame is not an adequate way to make something like this. Even US$20 Casio watches are built better than this.
The device is not adequately waterproof. A better seal for the USB port should have been used. Even better would be to use a waterproof charging system. Sony already has their magnetic charging port, which is waterproof and un-covered on my Sony Xperia Z2. Why they did not use this port on the SW2, I have no idea.
The SW2 is definitely not up to the build quality I expect from Sony.
Replacement:
The watch seems un-harmed except for the damage to the main board. Very little water (less than a drop) entered the watch. It would be very easily to replace the main board if I ever find one. I am sure there are plenty of SW2's out there with cracked screens, and perfectly good MB's. Perhaps I will find one at a good price.
I certainly do not plan to buy a new SW2 or a SW3. IMHO, the Sony Smart Watch 3 does not provide any compelling advantage over the Android Wear competition.
For the near term, I intend to buy a cheap Smart Band such as the Vidonn X6: http://vidonnx6.com/
I am waiting to see availability and prices of the Huawei Smart Watch. http://consumer.huawei.com/minisite/worldwide/huawei-watch/
I really like the look and features of this Android Wear device, and I actually trust that Huawei's build quality will be better than Sony's. I was very happy with my Huawei Honor 2. It still works fine, and still looks pretty good too. If it had NFC, I would probably still be using it as my main phone.
If either the Huawei is too expensive/never released/etc., or I find a black metal band Moto 360 at a good price, I'll get the Moto 360.
Sorry, and Good-Bye. I really like the features and battery life of the SW2. I wish I still had mine, which is to say that I wish the build quality had been better. I really wish I could have stayed with Sony for my wearable.
Yes, bad quality for the SW2 Seem also bad build quality and waterproof issue for the SW3....
But.... Rather my sw2 to my lg-r (or G). Wear has very poor UI and any action is really complicated
Do you still have the watch? Or any luck finding parts?
I need to repair mine and would be interested in buying it.
Update on my saga (since gtdRR did ask)....
I cleaned up my bench, and put the pieces of my old watch in the original plastic box it came in. AFAIK, it is complete, but I cannot promise that.
If you need the screen, it is in good shape (no water intrusion)... 1 small scratch center top -- about 1-2mm -- not into the actual screen area. Perhaps other very light scratches, but overall very good. PM me if you are interested, but frankly I'll charge you more for the hassle of shipping than the guts are probably worth. I normally sell old stuff/parts like this cash and carry at local Hamfests, so I don't generally ship stuff.
I bought the Vidonn X6. It really is pretty good for $30. Well over 1 week between charges, and the messaging part does work. The software (band firmware as well as the phone app) is pretty buggy as one would expect from such a device, but it works. It's not really a smart watch replacement since there are no apps, and the screen is not visible in any bright light (not just direct sunlight) but I am definitely happy with what I got for $30.
I'd trust it to survive knocking my wrist against something, dropping it, or dunking it in water more than the Sony SW2.
The Huawei Watch is out now (OK, pre-order), but the version I want (Black SS) is $100 more than the base model, plus they want to charge me sales tax.
I'll probably still go that route, but the price is making me hesitate.
PM sent.
Thanks
I still like my SW2
I have also an LG-G and a LG-R. I just found a second hand SW3 metal for 130€. SW3 has an advantage over the others Wear Watch -> his Transflective Screen like the SW2. All other are OLED or LCD IPS and act like a torch in the night at your wrist Not natural to have a screen always light up in your wrist. You can look at your SW3 watch even outdoor with full sun but not with other wear watch. And SW3 has also better battery life than other wear watch.

keyboard cover - can it be flipped over?

The new S4 is marketed as to use with a keyboard, preferably the original samsung keyboard cover. In multiple reviews I've read you can use this cover in only one position. What I would like to know is if you can flip the keyboard completely over (360 degrees) as I would do intuitively when using it as a drawing block using the S Pen.
Wondering that too, I've pre-ordered so will get the keyboard cover free a few weeks after I get the device, so potentially it'll be unprotected during that time. I'll probably buy a case from Amazon (seen one for around £6) to see me through.
From what I saw in store, yes the keyboard can flip over behind the device.
Though I did find this interesting on the Tab S3 the little 1/3 flap behind the tablet secured to the back side of the device automatically, pretty well to hold it in place if you flipped the keyboard over behind the screen. The S4 did not, and there was a little extra slop in the case because of this. Course it might be the security device holding it down but its just something I noticed.
Well, yes and no. It can but backwards. It would have been nice if it was able to fold back with the tablet's back against the keyboard but it actually flips over so that the keys are at the bottom and the tablet is at the top. I'm unsure if this does damage to the keys but its not optimal.
Silly question but...
why not just use the otg cable, plug in your logitech module, and use your logitech keyboard and mouse? For the rare times I need a keyboard, that's what I do. Then the tablet is still easily used as you always would, flip, landscape, etc.
just a thought.
AsItLies said:
Silly question but...
why not just use the otg cable, plug in your logitech module, and use your logitech keyboard and mouse? For the rare times I need a keyboard, that's what I do. Then the tablet is still easily used as you always would, flip, landscape, etc.
just a thought.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a silly question because many folks will use this as a traditional portable tablet as well as an occassional desktop machine. When you are out and about with your expensive tablet, you need a case to protect it from accidents, but this case also needs to be convenient. Leather wallet / folio cases are ideal for this, but (most) obviously don't feature a keyboard. Given how slippery this tablet is, with its all glass rear, I'm guessing that accidents may be relatively frequent!
So the OPs original question is pefectly valid. What is the likely durability of the keyboard when folded right over and sat on the users lap, for example, playing Pokemon on a bus? Perhaps, maybe, the keyboard case is an expensive gimmick and a standard leather wallet case would be a much better option (if such a thing actually exists yet)? The real leather case on my Galaxy NotePro 12.2 has served me extremely well over the years.
Yemble said:
That is a silly question because many folks will use this as a traditional portable tablet as well as an occassional desktop machine. When you are out and about with your expensive tablet, you need a case to protect it from accidents, but this case also needs to be convenient. Leather wallet / folio cases are ideal for this, but obviously don't feature a keyboard. Given how slippery this tablet is, with its all glass rear, I'm guessing that accidents may be relatively frequent!
So the OPs original question is pefectly valid. What is the likely durability of the keyboard when folded right over and sat on the users lap, for example, playing Pokemon on a bus? Perhaps, maybe, the keyboard case is an expensive gimmick and a standard leather wallet case would be a much better option (if such a thing actually exists yet)? The leather case on my Galaxy NotePro 12.2 has served me extremely well over the years.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Who said the OP question wasn't valid? Who said not to use a case?
I'm merely suggesting an alternative for those of us who don't play "Pokemon on a bus", for example.
AsItLies said:
Who said the OP question wasn't valid? Who said not to use a case?
I'm merely suggesting an alternative for those of us who don't play "Pokemon on a bus", for example.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Personally, I never play Pokemon, however, my daughter does on her commute to work... and the Tab S4 is her tablet Cables and peripherals are totally impractical in this particular usage case. Everyone has different requirements. Anyway, her "free" keyboard case has just been delivered today, so I'll check it out tonight.
Yemble said:
Everyone has different requirements. .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you for making my point.
AsItLies said:
thank you for making my point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are welcome.
However, this is an interesting point for discussion, as to how folk plan to make use of their new investment. From what I can work out from my daughter, at home it will be docked into a Cable Matters USB-C hub and used to stream movies over an Ethernet LAN connection, to her HDMI TV, amongst numerous other things. At work, she will use it as a desktop with the keyboard case and a bluetooth mouse. I've already described her commute.
If it were mine, I'd be using it as a passenger navigation device, along with AlpineQuest and a full set of OSGB maps, which is what I currently do with my aging NotePro.
Now that I've received the keyboard case I can confirm that the case can be flipped in such a way that the keyboard faces up, into the rear of the case when using as a traditional tablet. In this mode, the footprint of the tablet extends along a long edge by 38mm, which is due to the way the "fold" works.
Alternatively, it can be flipped with the keyboard facing down, which only extends the footprint by 10mm along the same edge.
First impressions are that it adds a fair bit of weight to the tablet, mainly due to good build quality. The case is pretty solid, but not padded, so it may not be great at absorbing shocks, say from a drop! The keyboard is compact, but has a reasonable feel. Note, that the pen is essential for using the keyboard with DeX as there is no trackpad.
Is it worth the RRP? Err, no, however, as a pre-order "freebe", I've got no grounds to complain.

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