Hello,
I have a Dasaita installed in my 2018 Toyota Avensis.
Unfortunately, after I put the device in reverse gear, it stays with the view of the rear camera. Dasaita has also already provided me with a new MCU version (see attachment), but unfortunately it did not help. The problem looks like this:
The reverse signal comes from the CAN BUS decoder.
Does anyone have an idea how I can solve this problem?
Does the reversing image go away when you turn the car off and back on and then return when you shift into reverse the first time?
I have a 2017 Toyota Camry which is similar to the Avensis with a PX6 SYGAV/DASAITA head unit.
Software suggestions:
Verify the Canbus options are correct for your vehicle. You can find these in Settings... Car... Factory settings.... 126
Here are the settings for my vehicle. Yours may be different. I would suggest setting the Type settting to "0 NO" as those seem to be quite specific to vehicle models with certain options. I had several check engine codes occurring with my car when Type was set to anything other than 0
You could also try setting the Canbus selection to 0 (effectively disabling the canbus adapter)
Hardware things to try:
1. Pull the ground wire from the car's battery for about a minute or so.
2. Try disconnecting the canbus adapter and then try shifting into reverse. The radio will function without the canbus adapter. This would tell you conclusively whether the reverse signal is indeed from the canbus adapter. I would not be very surprised if reverse works the same even without the canbus adapter. I know there is a reverse signal wire on the car harness on either the 24 pin connector or the 26 pin (can't remember right off which one but could find out if needed).
Maybe my suggestions will help somehow. Finally, you may have a defective canbus adapter or MCU board. Best of luck to you.
jlbooth said:
Does the reversing image go away when you turn the car off and back on and then return when you shift into reverse the first time?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. When I turn off the car and then restart it, the rearview image is still there. Only if the car was off for a longer time, the device is not at the rear view camera image after the start.
jlbooth said:
Software suggestions:
Verify the Canbus options are correct for your vehicle. You can find these in Settings... Car... Factory settings.... 126
Here are the settings for my vehicle. Yours may be different. I would suggest setting the Type settting to "0 NO" as those seem to be quite specific to vehicle models with certain options. I had several check engine codes occurring with my car when Type was set to anything other than 0
You could also try setting the Canbus selection to 0 (effectively disabling the canbus adapter)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have chosen the same CAN bus settings as you:
jlbooth said:
Hardware things to try:
1. Pull the ground wire from the car's battery for about a minute or so.
2. Try disconnecting the canbus adapter and then try shifting into reverse. The radio will function without the canbus adapter. This would tell you conclusively whether the reverse signal is indeed from the canbus adapter. I would not be very surprised if reverse works the same even without the canbus adapter. I know there is a reverse signal wire on the car harness on either the 24 pin connector or the 26 pin (can't remember right off which one but could find out if needed).
Maybe my suggestions will help somehow. Finally, you may have a defective canbus adapter or MCU board. Best of luck to you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Pull the ground wire unfortunately did not help. Especially since the reversing signal works with the original Toyota Touch 2.
2. The signal comes 100% from the CAN bus adapter. It is possible to connect the cable either to the CAN bus or to the connector from the car. Unfortunately, the reversing signal is not assigned to the car connector.
The reason I was suggesting to try running without the Canbus was to hopefully confirm or exclude it as the source of the problem. Perhaps you could get Dasaita to provide a replacement Canbus adapter and/or harness, but then again maybe you could get them to replace the whole unit. Just be advised that their tech support will do everything they possibly can to get you to give up and go away.
I doubt Toyota would rely on a software signal to trigger the reversing camera on the factory display. Hope that you are able to get this sorted out. Best of luck to you.
Thanks for your help
I unplugged the reverse signal coming from the CAN bus adapter and plugged it back in. I assume that it is the CAN bus adapter:
I wonder if you could pick up the reverse signal from somewhere else like another harness under the dash, or even run a wire from the reverse lights on the back of the car? Sounds kind of extreme and that kind of takes away from the "plug and play" idea of having the Toyota specific harness from Dasaita. What you paid for should "just work" as advertised.
This might seem like a silly question and apologies in advance, but do the reverse lights turn on and off like they should? Of course, you know, if they do, the idea of running a wire from the positive lead on one of the reverse lights to the reverse signal wire on the back of the radio might be a possible workaround for your situation. I remember my 2010 Toyota Tacoma had a lead in one of the factory harnesses under the glove box area that I tapped to get reverse signal for an aftermarket radio.
jlbooth said:
I wonder if you could pick up the reverse signal from somewhere else like another harness under the dash, or even run a wire from the reverse lights on the back of the car? Sounds kind of extreme and that kind of takes away from the "plug and play" idea of having the Toyota specific harness from Dasaita. What you paid for should "just work" as advertised.
This might seem like a silly question and apologies in advance, but do the reverse lights turn on and off like they should? Of course, you know, if they do, the idea of running a wire from the positive lead on one of the reverse lights to the reverse signal wire on the back of the radio might be a possible workaround for your situation. I remember my 2010 Toyota Tacoma had a lead in one of the factory harnesses under the glove box area that I tapped to get reverse signal for an aftermarket radio.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
chrisv4 said:
Thanks for your help
I unplugged the reverse signal coming from the CAN bus adapter and plugged it back in. I assume that it is the CAN bus adapter:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your CAN unit isn't working correctly. Replace or workaround with signal wire as @jlbooth has suggested.
If this is out of your area of expertise, a local electrical/electronic repairer might be best to work with.
You can get a reverse signal from your reverse light. Use that instead of the can bus signal and see what happens
Thanks to all. I have now picked up the signal from somewhere else. Now everything works.
My pleasure @chrisv4. Thank you for reporting back your success .
Hello to everyone.
I have the same problem like chrisv4. I have contacted Dasaita and told them my problem. They still going around a circle and obviously don't know what is the problem. I have Toyota CH-R 2018, led lights. When I am switching to reverse, the screen is switching to reverse camera, but after swithcing to neutral (for example), the camera doesn't want to turn off. If I disconnected the cable like member chrisv4, the screen switched, but after putting the wire together, the reverse camera screen is went back again. I dont know, where the problem is, because on some youtube video, the people don't have a problem with factory camera. It seem that the camera is not grounded or somethink like that.
Do you have some ideas what it could be?
Thank you so much for your suggestion. I am also waiting for Dasaita engineer satement.
PatrikRilian said:
Ciao a tutti.
Ho lo stesso problema di chrisv4. Ho contattato Dasaita e gli ho spiegato il mio problema. Stanno ancora girando in cerchio e ovviamente non sanno qual è il problema. Ho Toyota CH-R 2018, luci a led. Quando si passa alla retromarcia, lo schermo passa alla telecamera per la retromarcia, ma dopo essere passati alla posizione neutra (ad esempio), la telecamera non si spegne. Se ho scollegato il cavo come il membro chrisv4, lo schermo è cambiato, ma dopo aver unito il cavo, lo schermo della telecamera inversa viene ripristinato. Non so dove sia il problema, perché su alcuni video di YouTube, le persone non hanno problemi con la fotocamera di fabbrica. Sembra che la fotocamera non sia collegata a terra o qualcosa del genere.
Hai qualche idea su cosa potrebbe essere?
Grazie mille per il tuo suggerimento. Sto anche aspettando il commento dell'ingegnere Dasaita.
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Click to collapse
Hello,
I have the same machine and the exact same problem, were you able to solve with Dasaita? what kind of solution did they propose to you?
i am trying to contact them
thank you
MarCern said:
Hello,
I have the same machine and the exact same problem, were you able to solve with Dasaita? what kind of solution did they propose to you?
i am trying to contact them
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey,
sorry for late reply, but Dasaita "engineers" were not able to solve the problem. They sent me many Can bus adapters, but it did not solve the problem. I don't know where the problem is. They still talked me to cut the wire etc., change can bus etc. I am not mechanic, but I think that in the inner car software there must be something to change it.
Related
Can anyone tell me which GPS receiver I should get to plug into my o2/XDA1 car kit?
Thanks in advance.
Any serial gps will wire to the kit as far as I know, I dont think you can "plug" a gps into it, it will use com 1 so make sure under settings/connections that the beams box is unchecked.
Does that mean I'll have to butcher an existing receiver in order to make it connect? I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that... :?
It seems strange that the car kit has a connector for GPS and yet there doesn't seem to be a dedicated receiver that just plugs straight in.
OK, next question then - in the absence of a dedicated receiver, what receiver would you recommend, bearing in mind I have to hack it to make it fit?
Thanks.
Get a cheap haicom SERIAL gps or any other serial gps that has the wiring diagram, here is a link for Haicom gps to xda car kit.
http://www.vanhemert.biz/Car_Kit_GPS_Connection.htm
http://www.vanhemert.biz/XDA.htm
Okey dokey, I bought a Haicom 204 and wired it as per that diagram - so far so good.
I've plugged it all in and nothing seems to work. I won't have any SatNav software installed until 2moro, but I was expecting the LEDs to light up on the receiver...?
Is there any way I can tell if the receiver is connected right?
I've unchecked the 'receive all incoming beams' box under Connections, do I have to do anything else for the XDA to see the receiver?
Thanks in advance, and for your help so far.
The light may not come on until it is initialised by a program, why dont you download gps dash or another freebie just to see if everything is ok. You can get it here.
http://gpsdash.com/files.php
Great, thanks. I'll let you know what happens...
Nope, nada.
Do I have to make any speacial settings in GPSDash? What about withinn the XDA itself?
Remember, you're talking to a complete novice here...
Thanks.
settings would be nmea 4800 and com 1 in gps dash
Still nothing.
I presume the receiver takes it's power directly from the carkit, right?
Yes it takes the 5 volt feed as per the diagram, I have heard that sometimes you need 5 volts on the tx line to wake up the gps, I wouldnt do that yet though until you check the wiring. Also a common error is getting the rx tx reversed, try reversing these.
It's funny you should mention the TX/RX. I noticed on that diagram you linked that those connections were labelled the opposite to what's in the 204S manual.
In the manual the pin labelled TX (Pin 5) is labelled XDARXD on the diagram. I figured what's RX to the XDA is TX to the receiver so I went with the diagram wire for wire.
Will I do any harm by swapping them and trying it that way?
No harm at all
IT WORKS!!!
I finally got it to work - turns out I had a faulty receiver. Put a new 204S in and it worked straight away.
Thanks again for your help.
D.
Nice one Deke, isnt it great when things go so smoothly
Please,
I have a regular sound system with a AUX-IN. I can connect my ipod, and my sister philips gogear, as my Nokia E72, directly as mp3 players. But I can't connect my Defy. I use a p2-p2 cable, regular, and Defy doesnt recognize, the sound coming from the speakers (defy).
When I connect a "extend-cable" with a earphones, take it out and plug my p2-p2 cable on sound system, its work.
So, Can someone help me?
Why Defy doenst recognize my sound? Its to happens with my car system.
I really think I've spend money on motorola defy.
ps. sorry about my english.
Well...
I noticed that too.
To solve this I made a little modification on the P2 cable, just put a push-button between the ground (negative) and one of another wire (positive). You just need a momentary short on this wires for the phone recognize your sound system as a phone...
I dont now why motorola did this...
Mauricio
I just connected my Defy to my sound system and PowerAmp just started playing. I think that that short usually is done when inserting the jack.
This sounds like an impedance issue. The headphones are low impedance, aroud 32 ohms, but the aux-input is higher impedance, probably around 22k ohms. The proper solution would be to add two 33 ohm resistors to the cable, from ground to left and ground to right. They would add the correct loading to make the Defy think there is headphones connected.
Thanks Daniel, it's really happens w/ Poweramp, only w/ Poweramp, w/ the stock apps, its doesnt works. I've installed poweramp to solve this issue.
Mauricio,
Obrigado pela ajuda, não tenho o menor talento para eletronica, afim de conseguir instalar o botão nos cabos. Mas buscarei no google como proceder, ou mesmo em alguma eletronica especializada. Muito obrigado novamente pela disposição em ajudar.
abraço
A greeting, a good 2016 and thanks to all for their valuable contribution in this forum. Forgive me because I do not speak English. For about a month I bought a Eonon 5165F, specific for BMW.
Mod. S07
MTCB KLD1 v2.55
Android 4.4.4.
Build rk3188
ARMv7 CPU 1.6 GHz (x4)
memory 1024Mb
The problem is that only detects a satellite, both with GPS antenna which is not connected. I measured the voltage on the jack (on the back of the radio) where you screw the GPS antenna, detecting 0 volts. Is there a solution? Thanks in advance and excuse me if I'm wrong section.
I'm not sure I understand your question.
Let me tell you my experience and hope that it answers what your actual question is.
When using navigation software, unless I had a route entered and running, the GPS signal would be lost if I ever exited the navigation program. Unlike when I actually had the program providing me directions; I would still be provided oral directions even if I was on the "radio" screen.
I believe that there is no power to the GPS antenna unless there is a program running that requires it.
First a big thank you for your prompt response. I did not understand the answer, because of google translator. I try to explain better, the problem is that my car radio is only one satellite is with navigation software, both in function gps monitor. This occurs with both GPS antenna connected, both with GPS antenna disconnected. An operator Eonon, with whom they are in contact and which still do not receive information, suggested I check if the voltage on the antenna jack on the GPS was 3.3 volts. So I infer that having measured 0 volts, no current then the antenna does not work and accordingly the car radio is only one satellite.
Google Translate is not helpful. I suggest posting in your own language as well so that someone else might be able to help.
Check the GPS antenna voltage while a navigation program is running.
la max said:
First a big thank you for your prompt response. I did not understand the answer, because of google translator. I try to explain better, the problem is that my car radio is only one satellite is with navigation software, both in function gps monitor. This occurs with both GPS antenna connected, both with GPS antenna disconnected. An operator Eonon, with whom they are in contact and which still do not receive information, suggested I check if the voltage on the antenna jack on the GPS was 3.3 volts. So I infer that having measured 0 volts, no current then the antenna does not work and accordingly the car radio is only one satellite.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be sure you're measuring DC Volt? Eonon is correct you should have around 3,3 volt DC. If not, your HU is probably faulty. If Eonon allows you, open it up and check
if the GPS antenna wire is connected. You can also beep the antenna wire from the socket to the MB connection.
The cable is connected because the first few days the GPS working. I noticed the problem after I plugged a +12 volts from the car battery to avoid losing time and the memories of the radio stations. I did a restore to factory state but the problem remained. I do not know if you can be of help, but after you restore disappeared applying air pin pro. Thank you.
la max said:
The cable is connected because the first few days the GPS working. I noticed the problem after I plugged a +12 volts from the car battery to avoid losing time and the memories of the radio stations. I did a restore to factory state but the problem remained. I do not know if you can be of help, but after you restore disappeared applying air pin pro. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, you didn't tell it has been working before you did something. Why don't you load the factory firmware
which might fix your problem. Ask the manufacturer for the correct firmware and instruction how to reload the firmware.
You might also go into recover and clear all various cache, like Dalvik and so on. Ask the manufacturer for information.
I hope that the manufacturer decides to fully answer. Then I will try with different solutions. I will also try to remove the cache with Dalvik, but first, the root. I have the impression that the problem is related to some electronic component burned.
la max said:
I hope that the manufacturer decides to fully answer. Then I will try with different solutions. I will also try to remove the cache with Dalvik, but first, the root. I have the impression that the problem is related to some electronic component burned.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you only installed software then it's unlikely a hardware problem.
la max said:
The cable is connected because the first few days the GPS working. I noticed the problem after I plugged a +12 volts from the car battery to avoid losing time and the memories of the radio stations. I did a restore to factory state but the problem remained. I do not know if you can be of help, but after you restore disappeared applying air pin pro. Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can check the “ACC” and “B+” wire are correctly connected to your car connectors.
If opposite, exchange the “ACC” and the “B+” wire.
---------- Post added at 07:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:41 AM ----------
la max said:
A greeting, a good 2016 and thanks to all for their valuable contribution in this forum. Forgive me because I do not speak English. For about a month I bought a Eonon 5165F, specific for BMW.
Mod. S07
MTCB KLD1 v2.55
Android 4.4.4.
Build rk3188
ARMv7 CPU 1.6 GHz (x4)
memory 1024Mb
The problem is that only detects a satellite, both with GPS antenna which is not connected. I measured the voltage on the jack (on the back of the radio) where you screw the GPS antenna, detecting 0 volts. Is there a solution? Thanks in advance and excuse me if I'm wrong section.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the GPS function cannot work normally, you can check
1. if the GPS antenna is connected well (check manual)
2. if the GPS antenna is broken (you can try another GPS antenna to test)
3. if there is something wrong in the inside of your head unit (you can ask the seller for help)
4. the GPS software (try another navigation, such as google or waze)
Hope can help you!
Thanks again for all your answers and your advice. I've already checked if the antenna is connected properly. I also tried another GPS antenna. The result does not change. I tried google maps but can not find my position. I do not think they are wrong connections, because the attack is specific to my car. Initially, the GPS worked with these connections. I did not understand what is the thread "B +". I have not updated because Eonon still unresponsive. I wait a few days later I will open the radio and ask you what to check specifically. I thought also to upgrade MCU, what do you think?You could solve? Thanks XDA forum
la max said:
Thanks again for all your answers and your advice. I've already checked if the antenna is connected properly. I also tried another GPS antenna. The result does not change. I tried google maps but can not find my position. I do not think they are wrong connections, because the attack is specific to my car. Initially, the GPS worked with these connections. I did not understand what is the thread "B +". I have not updated because Eonon still unresponsive. I wait a few days later I will open the radio and ask you what to check specifically. I thought also to upgrade MCU, what do you think?You could solve? Thanks XDA forum
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't start to mess around with things that has no connection to the GPS. Have you answered my question concerning when did it fail? I've already explained in this thread what you should do if you open it up. ACC and B+ are the two power connections. B+ is battery power always on/yellow cable . Acc is on when your starter switch/key is Acc position/red cable. No harm done if you switch the two yellow/red. The only thing you lose is radio settings and other memory items as you already experienced.
When did it fail? When you did something mechanical/electronics/software.
welcome back satellites
Hello I have great news, I solved my problem. Tired of waiting for news from Eonon today I decided to open my car radio. After various voltage measurements have found that the base of the GPS coaxial cable, on the motherboard, there were 3.26 volts (but not on SMA female jack on the back of the car as I had already said in previous posts). Moving the cable was impossible to have tension. After careful consideration of the cable I noticed that she had been made a bad weld on SMA female jack, because the cable was not connected and was only held by shrink tubing. I went to an electronics store and took a piece of coaxial cable with SMA female connector already soldered. I proceeded to solder on the motherboard and everything has fallen into place. I thank all the people who helped me and especially the user halloj. You are strong XDA!
Can you tell me about the fix? I have the same problem on erisin unit for e46, sometimes it works i have signal, sometimes no signal... And it stay with no signal untill the car is off for 2-3 hours, from where shoud i start?
la max said:
Hello I have great news, I solved my problem. Tired of waiting for news from Eonon today I decided to open my car radio. After various voltage measurements have found that the base of the GPS coaxial cable, on the motherboard, there were 3.26 volts (but not on SMA female jack on the back of the car as I had already said in previous posts). Moving the cable was impossible to have tension. After careful consideration of the cable I noticed that she had been made a bad weld on SMA female jack, because the cable was not connected and was only held by shrink tubing. I went to an electronics store and took a piece of coaxial cable with SMA female connector already soldered. I proceeded to solder on the motherboard and everything has fallen into place. I thank all the people who helped me and especially the user halloj. You are strong XDA!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there!
Did you perhaps take a picture of your inside work? can you share it here please?
Thank you!
Hi all,
I am trying to install the above into an Audi A4 which is a canbus vehicle.
I got everything plugged in and it all looked to be working fine but after 2-3 minutes the unit always switches itself off. I have noticed the Canbus adapter always gets very hot as well just before the unit switches off.
Could I have connected something incorrectly for this behaviour to occur?
Thanks
Please be more specific.
Do you have ISO connectors?
The CanBus module should be allready wired to the comnector. It was not? If no, post the wiring diagram received (maybe you feed 12 V in a 5V input?....).
În order to get help post pictures and more info.
Hi. The fitting kit I have used is the following;
http://caraudiosecurity.com/ctkau02-audi-a4-2002-2006-complete-double-din-facia-kit
The Canbus adapter is plugged in via the attachment to the ISO cable.
Let me know if you need any pictures.
Thanks
I'm sure there is no easy way to find the problem.
I would do the following :
First make sure that all pins in all connectors are firmly in their place (see below the example).
Get correct pinout data for all connectors (Car connectors, HU, the adaptor kit and the CanBus module and also the pinout for the old stereo). When searching for the car connectors pinout make sure you find the correct one (year, model, audio system type, etc).
After having all the data you should search for any mismatch (power instead of data, different voltages, etc).
I recomend this beacuase I bumped in a similar problem with my car. I have a Mazda 6 and for the same model and year the car Hu connector differs for the Bose system version and the non Bose version, and the pinout of the adapter and Hu is not taking in consideration this posibility. Therefore I had to cut and reconnect some wires.
And one more thing : when I installed my Hu, some pins slipped out of their slots inside the connectors and my CanBus module was beep-ing constantly and the Hu was not starting at all. I had to use a very thin metal rod to push them back into position (with the connectors plugged in).
Thanks for your help. It turns out a Parrot bluetooth module was installed at some point and they have a good mess with the wiring and piggubacked onto the cars wiring. I am having to use that to power the unit now as it stops it turning off after 3 minutes. My next problem is that I don't have the steering controls option available in the settings menu. Any idea why?
If you are using CanBus you do not need that menu. The Hu has two 5V out and two inputs. If you have non CanBus Swc you need to take the 5V wire, pass it through your Swc and then to the Hu Swc input (the clasic controls usses resistors with different values for each button that atenuates the 5V from the Hu in different values for each button pressed and the Hu read that value through the swv input). So if your 5V wire and Swc input is not connected, you will not have the menu available. Once connected you must first go to factory menu and define each button (see the user manual))
Marmalux said:
If you are using CanBus you do not need that menu. The Hu has two 5V out and two inputs. If you have non CanBus Swc you need to take the 5V wire, pass it through your Swc and then to the Hu Swc input (the clasic controls usses resistors with different values for each button that atenuates the 5V from the Hu in different values for each button pressed and the Hu read that value through the swv input). So if your 5V wire and Swc input is not connected, you will not have the menu available. Once connected you must first go to factory menu and define each button (see the user manual))
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I've attached some pictures to show how the unit is connected to the Canbus adapter.
Key1 5V is connected to its equivalent going to the Canbus adapter.
Key2 5V is as above
GND is as above
Do I have it correct and am I just required to correctly map the buttons now?
Thanks
Still can't get this working.
Should I reset the headunit, update MCU and software or does it look like my wiring is wrong?
Thanks
No one can help you without being there. If you do no have the skills to do it yourself you should go to a electronics service.
As I said, you have to analyze all data. You must get all pin-outs and characteristics for your car.
You must know if your Swc is resistive or Can-bus.
With the car main stereo connectors pinout you will see what you have (resistive Swc, Can-bus wires, external amp signal, etc) and theirs place in the connector.
With the Hu pinout you will know what does the Hu can provide and what pins you should use.
And in your case you have a adapter in the middle, for witch you also need the pinout to make sure that everything is routed correctly.
After you have a clear diagram for your car you must check if fizicaly everything is as it should be.
How to get the pin-outs?
The Hu pinout should be on a sticker on the Hu itself.
For the car connectors you must first decode you vin and get info like year, options, version (usualy a more detailed pinout you find if you search the old stereo pin-out by it's exact make and model).
And for the adapter you must get it from the seller or from the Internet.
You said that before you, someone made modifications to wiring; this is one more reasons to get all informations and make yourself a clear wiring diagram for you to be able to start troubleshooting.
I realy wish I could help more but I can't, and there is nobody else that can give you help without being there to see (otherwise it would allready said sommething)
Best regards!
I've searched and searched but only find bits and pieces of information. So far, I haven't been able to connect enough dots to understand how this works.
Back in 2016 I purchased an Android head unit from Auto Pumpkin. I stumbled upon it by pure accident, thought it looked slick, and decided give it a shot. The radio body was Chevrolet specific so it popped right into my Express van. It also came with a canbus decoder box which I didn't know anything about but hooked up anyway and was impressed by the integration. Door status, reverse overlays, brightness control, and some other cool stuff.
Fast forward to last year, I bought another head unit for a new Chevy van but I couldn't find one that came with the canbus integration so it's installed as a standalone radio. The unit has the canbus pins on the back, but the corresponding wire harness didn't have any conductors to match up with them. It also didn't come with any type of canbus decoder. The config area in Factory Settings is still there, though.
That brings me to my first question: Are the pins on units like these still ready/capable to be connected to *something* even though the wire harnesses that come with them don't have the specific wires for it? What I'm asking is, if I purchase a Chevrolet canbus decoder separately, can I hook it up (adding the required wires) and expect it to work?
Lastly, I recently purchased yet another head unit, this time from Dasita, for my RV. It's built on a Ford chassis. Same as before, the radio has the pins (and they're labeled as canbus!), but the wire harness doesn't have wires connected to those pins.
Is there a Ford canbus decoder available somewhere, and, with some tinkering, is it possible to get the vehicle to talk to the head unit?
nomaxtech said:
Is there a Ford canbus decoder available somewhere, and, with some tinkering, is it possible to get the vehicle to talk to the head unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, just make sure you order the right one for your head unit.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000875414226.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2d785d7aDFgDYy&algo_pvid=8d9f7a38-3a25-48c1-8c5b-a0f1372ec0d7&algo_expid=8d9f7a38-3a25-48c1-8c5b-a0f1372ec0d7-3&btsid=0b0a556e16134130756217144e212d&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_