Develop Bugs

Which GPS receiver for O2 XDA1 car kit?

Can anyone tell me which GPS receiver I should get to plug into my o2/XDA1 car kit?
Thanks in advance.

Any serial gps will wire to the kit as far as I know, I dont think you can "plug" a gps into it, it will use com 1 so make sure under settings/connections that the beams box is unchecked.

Does that mean I'll have to butcher an existing receiver in order to make it connect? I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that... :?
It seems strange that the car kit has a connector for GPS and yet there doesn't seem to be a dedicated receiver that just plugs straight in.
OK, next question then - in the absence of a dedicated receiver, what receiver would you recommend, bearing in mind I have to hack it to make it fit?
Thanks.

Get a cheap haicom SERIAL gps or any other serial gps that has the wiring diagram, here is a link for Haicom gps to xda car kit.
http://www.vanhemert.biz/Car_Kit_GPS_Connection.htm
http://www.vanhemert.biz/XDA.htm

Okey dokey, I bought a Haicom 204 and wired it as per that diagram - so far so good.
I've plugged it all in and nothing seems to work. I won't have any SatNav software installed until 2moro, but I was expecting the LEDs to light up on the receiver...?
Is there any way I can tell if the receiver is connected right?
I've unchecked the 'receive all incoming beams' box under Connections, do I have to do anything else for the XDA to see the receiver?
Thanks in advance, and for your help so far.

The light may not come on until it is initialised by a program, why dont you download gps dash or another freebie just to see if everything is ok. You can get it here.
http://gpsdash.com/files.php

Great, thanks. I'll let you know what happens...

Nope, nada.
Do I have to make any speacial settings in GPSDash? What about withinn the XDA itself?
Remember, you're talking to a complete novice here...
Thanks.

settings would be nmea 4800 and com 1 in gps dash

Still nothing.
I presume the receiver takes it's power directly from the carkit, right?

Yes it takes the 5 volt feed as per the diagram, I have heard that sometimes you need 5 volts on the tx line to wake up the gps, I wouldnt do that yet though until you check the wiring. Also a common error is getting the rx tx reversed, try reversing these.

It's funny you should mention the TX/RX. I noticed on that diagram you linked that those connections were labelled the opposite to what's in the 204S manual.
In the manual the pin labelled TX (Pin 5) is labelled XDARXD on the diagram. I figured what's RX to the XDA is TX to the receiver so I went with the diagram wire for wire.
Will I do any harm by swapping them and trying it that way?

No harm at all

IT WORKS!!!
I finally got it to work - turns out I had a faulty receiver. Put a new 204S in and it worked straight away.
Thanks again for your help.
D.

Nice one Deke, isnt it great when things go so smoothly

FM Radio without Headset - Here is the Solution

Hi at all!
First, sorry for my bad english.
I have a software solution to use the FM Radio without Headset, i know that in the headset is the antenna!
You must change a value in the Registry under:
HKLM/System/State/Hardware/ and now you must chance the Headset value to 1.
When you plug the headset in the device is change the Value automatic to one. When ist not plugged than is 0.
But without antenna i can´t find radioprogramms :-(

Antenna
How about the usb charger cable able to find radioprogramms then? Could be usefull in combination with gps using TMC.

Perjan said:
How about the usb charger cable able to find radioprogramms then? Could be usefull in combination with gps using TMC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tryed that, but with no success, can't find any stations.
PK

Looks like we're getting closer. Good work, dodo-dk.
I can't get any stations either and it doesn't look like you can specify a station if it doesn't scan and identify it. Hmmm. Also, it doesn't look like the registry hack stays after a soft reset either.
db

Capture a photo to indicate that it can open the Radio after change the registry as describe at first post. However, the radio cannot detect any signal

That is possible, if you attaches a thin wire(ca.0.5M) to pin 7 ANTENA.
Here http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=284512

sas90850 said:
Capture a photo to indicate that it can open the Radio after change the registry as describe at first post. However, the radio cannot detect any signal
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now all we need is someone to hack together an external antenna that wont disable the internal speaker.
If anyone manages it don't forget to post about it here.
With pictures

Ahqar said:
Now all we need is someone to hack together an external antenna that wont disable the internal speaker.
If anyone manages it don't forget to post about it here.
With pictures
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As for the Atom/6828, the external speaker can still be powered on with the earphones plugged in. This feature is only available to the radio application.
Does this HTC device have this?

MasK said:
As for the Atom/6828, the external speaker can still be powered on with the earphones plugged in. This feature is only available to the radio application.
Does this HTC device have this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it does. Someties you can even have both

Hello!
I'm a bit confused. How does TCM work when the FM device only recognizes stations or transmisions when earphones are pluged in? When in navigation, with TCM capable software, you have to plug in the earphones so you can use TCM? That sound a bit strange to me. Can someone provide a clarification please.
...bye DonQ

DonQuichotte said:
Hello!
I'm a bit confused. How does TCM work when the FM device only recognizes stations or transmisions when earphones are pluged in? When in navigation, with TCM capable software, you have to plug in the earphones so you can use TCM? That sound a bit strange to me. Can someone provide a clarification please.
...bye DonQ
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TMC is encoded in rds, since the artemis is able to use RDS when using the antenna in theory it should be able to translate the tmc out of the RDS. Thus this is merely a software tweak. Its up to us to couple all the loose strings...

Thanks, but that wasn't my question? I know how TCM works, but as stated in a post above, the artemis can tune in to a radio station only with pluged-in earphones. Thus I count one thing to another and come to this conclusion: no pluged-in earphones = no radio station = no RDS = no TCM!? If that's the case the whole TMC feature in artemis is just a joke.
So is TCM working with the bare artemis (none attached wires of any kind)?
...bye DonQ

Here's my question regarding this radio issue for all you electrical engineers out there:
Would it be possible to construct a combo mini-usb radio antenna and audio adapter that would take the place of the earphones as the antenna yet be small enough not to stick out much more than the current 3.5mm headphone adapter that is available on Expansys?
http://www.mobileplanet.com/p.aspx?i=138247
That way you could enable the radio and other functions and still use your good headphones. Or, if the audio adapter and antenna couldn't be combined, with a "mini usb radio antenna", you could at least use A2DP with bluetooth headphones to listen to the radio.
Just food for thought...what do you think?

There is a easier way than messing around with pins and wire...
http://www.expansys.com/htc/p_htc_item.aspx?i=140831
But I'm not sure if TMC will work with this...
Greets, Flocky

The FM radio does not work with either the audio adapter or the audio/power splitter. I have both and just get the message to plug in the earphones that came with it.
db

dcbehan said:
The FM radio does not work with either the audio adapter or the audio/power splitter. I have both and just get the message to plug in the earphones that came with it.
db
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Change the Registry (Post #1 here), and select output in Program Menu->Output "Headset"...
But Radio need Antena!

That was exactly my point in my previous post! We all know that the current adapters will allow you to CONNECT a 3.5mm headset to the P3300, the problem is the lack of an antenna in standard headphones to make the radio work. It would seem to me that a mini usb to 3.5 adapter with a BUILT-IN radio antenna would solve this problem.
Now if only I had the capital and the electronic knowledge to invent it!

the fm radio band is a 98 cm band so you need at least 50 cm cable to have a decent signal. With other words..if you cut the antenne (cable for a mobile phone or pda) you loose the signal. Nothing more or nothing less than this.
Better would be a small cable you could run in and out your phone automaticly (by hand pulling or something) when you're in need of the radio.
Btw sorry for my bad english

kasperke said:
the fm radio band is a 98 cm band so you need at least 50 cm cable to have a decent signal. With other words..if you cut the antenne (cable for a mobile phone or pda) you loose the signal. Nothing more or nothing less than this.
Better would be a small cable you could run in and out your phone automaticly (by hand pulling or something) when you're in need of the radio.
Btw sorry for my bad english
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a small correction: The FM radio band is 3m or 300 cm wavelength. So the best antennalength would be a quarter wave which equals 75 cm

Stal-Ker said:
Change the Registry (Post #1 here), and select output in Program Menu->Output "Headset"...
But Radio need Antena!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a great solution, but you cannot derive the sound to an a2dp headsets, isn't it?

External Antenna Connector

Wilson electronics makes an adapter that will plug into the external antenna jack under the back cover. I tried it, and it worked great... until I disconnected it. Then the internal antenna would no longer work. It's like the act of plugging it in destroyed the phone's ability to use its internal antenna. It would work when I reconnected the external antenna, but when I disconnected it, the phone would only get any signal strength when I was right under a cell tower.
Anyone else try one of their adapters with the Captivate? If so, what were the results?
-nfs
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.

I had no idea that input jack was there until you said anything. What happens if you switch airplane mode on and off after the disconnect of the adapter?

nappent said:
I had no idea that input jack was there until you said anything. What happens if you switch airplane mode on and off after the disconnect of the adapter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't remember if I tried it, but it was restarted many times. I would think that power cycling the phone would have essentially the same effect.
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.

I saw this but never had the courage to try it. Did you pull the battery and try the 3 button fix?

photo please?

This should clarify things
TommyZee said:
photo please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's the round gold connector at the bottom right of the SIM card. The adapter (FME on the other end) is available here:
http://www.wpsantennas.com/359919-samsung-captivate-galaxy-s-antenna-adapter-cable.aspx
After one BAD experience, I'm not eager to try again. I was sort of hoping that my experience was a fluke and that other people had been more successful.

Why?
capnoob said:
I saw this but never had the courage to try it. Did you pull the battery and try the 3 button fix?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never occurred to me to do that, since the phone booted and it would work when very near a cell tower.
This struck me as either a defect in manufacture, or a design flaw... either in the phone or in the connector. I suspect it was mechanical in nature, and that once the act of connecting the adapter disconnected the internal antenna, something caused it to stay disconnected.

I wonder if this might have happened?
Read the part under "How To Know If a Cellular Yagi Will Work With Your Phone"
http://www.ehelpfultips.com/how_to_use_cell_phone_yagi_direc.htm

capn1 said:
I wonder if this might have happened?
Read the part under "How To Know If a Cellular Yagi Will Work With Your Phone"
http://www.ehelpfultips.com/how_to_use_cell_phone_yagi_direc.htm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
I was using a dual band antenna without an amplifier, so there should not have been too much SWR. I've used this antenna for years with another phone AND an amplifier without problems.
The evidence clearly indicates that phone's transmitter was not burned out due to too much SWR or anything else, because it would still work just fine when reconnected to the external antenna. Ditto for the phone's receiver section; it worked fine whenever it was connected to the external antenna. Once connected, thereafter the signal bars went to zero when it was disconnected. Also, as I mentioned, the phone would still function normally, if I was VERY near a cell tower.
The only conclusion I can make is that the connector was designed to disconnect the internal antenna when an external antenna is connected. Somehow the connector or the electronics failed to ever reconnect it when the external was disconnected.
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.

try reflashing a modem

It's NOT a firmware problem
I know you guys are trying to help, but it's not a firmware problem. It's a hardware problem. I was just trying to see if anyone else had a similar experience. I just talked with Wilson Electronics, and the guy I spoke with acknowledged that the connector or board can be damaged on the Captivate. He also volunteered that they don't recommend direct connection with that phone. Well, that's kind of odd, since I only learned of the connector by calling them up and asking which one to use with the phone.
Even though I did not buy the adapters from them, I bought them on the recommendation of one of their people, so I have contacted them to get my money back. We'll see; they haven't responded officially yet. I suppose I can contact the vendor, but they were not the ones who told me it would work...
They have another way to inductively connect the phone. The only problem is that my old amplifier won't work for that. I'll have to get a model 801201 instead of my old 812201 which will run another $250 or so, with a cradle and/or velcro attached inductive connector.
comdei said:
try reflashing a modem
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Well guess what!!?? You are in luck!!!
Theres something you can do with hardware problems..
CALL SAMSUNG
your phone is under 1 year old. you have a warranty. call them. flash to stock . and get it replaced then

Why don't you try reflashing the modem or rom? People are offering you solutions and you seem stuck on it being a hardware issue. A rom or modem re-flash takes a few mins of your time. Not to start anything but I do support for a living and it bugs the hell out of me when people jump the gun and won't try other solutions.

I am stuck on the evidence as to what the nature of the problem is. Did you read what I posted previously?
Let me tell you a little more. At the time I had the problem, the phone was still on the factory firmware. The phone had never been flashed.
All the available evidence points to a hardware problem. The fact that the phone worked when in close proximity to a cell tower, that as soon as there was any distance between the tower and the phone there were no signal bars, but if I plugged the external antenna in there was immediately good signal...the fact that the connector manufacturer has admitted that their adapter could damage the board... I don't mean to be unapreciative, but I do support, too (a well a writing the software itself), and I've learned to really think about the available information when trying to deduce the nature of a problem, and it seems to me that you are stuck on a conclusion that the evidence doesn't support.
Besides, I am not looking for help here. As I wrote previously, I was trying to find out if anyone has had a similar experience. If my experience was a fluke, then I would have been willing to try connecting the replacement phone. See, the problem has been solved, but I don't want to have it again.
Now that the manufacturer has admitted that their connector could damage the board, I have decided to get a different type of amplifier which allows an inductive connection. That should prevent further problems of this nature. It's an expensive solution, but an antenna with a bi-directional amp is really useful when you are in a remote area with a faint signal. When the signal is too weak for that, it's time to use the ham radio... but that's another topic, and yes, I have been known to take my jeep off road... way way off the road.
nappent said:
Why don't you try reflashing the modem or rom? People are offering you solutions and you seem stuck on it being a hardware issue. A rom or modem re-flash takes a few mins of your time. Not to start anything but I do support for a living and it bugs the hell out of me when people jump the gun and won't try other solutions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.

nfs_phone said:
Now that the manufacturer has admitted that their connector could damage the board, I have decided to get a different type of amplifier which allows an inductive connection. That should prevent further problems of this nature. It's an expensive solution, but an antenna with a bi-directional amp is really useful when you are in a remote area with a faint signal. When the signal is too weak for that, it's time to use the ham radio... but that's another topic, and yes, I have been known to take my jeep off road... way way off the road.
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So samsung admitted it is a known problem? Are you sending it in for warranty then?

Trusselo said:
So samsung admitted it is a known problem? Are you sending it in for warranty then?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was referring to the manufacturer of the adapter, not the phone. Samsung was made aware of the problem when I was trouble-shooting the problem. The tech I was talking to blamed the problem on me for using third party accessories not authorized by Samsung. However, since I had been acting in good faith, he did authorize my sending the phone in for warranty repair. I don't know if they can be counted upon to always do that.
I am left wondering how often this problem happens. I used the antenna connector on the back of my Motorola V3xx thousands of times with no issues. It seems really odd to have just connected the Cappy once and suffered such a problem. One key difference is that I don't think that the V3xx disconnected the internal antenna when you connect the external one.
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.

I've seen similar behavior when one of my foster kids mistook the antenna for a screw while disassembling a blackberry.
The antenna jack is a "normalizing " jack in that when you plug something in a circuit is disconnected and when you unplug it restores the circuit.
if there was a problem with the adapter and it applied too much pressure to the middle pin then it may not have normalized and you would only get signal if you sat under a tower.
This is exactly what happened with the poor blackberry.
Glad to hear Sammy is covering it with warranty, other wise you would have been the proud owner of the only door wedge that plays angry birds.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App

Interesting. Not sure I understand what you mean by normalizing nor"middle" pin, but it was pretty clear that the internal antenna was no longer connected. Of course the unit was not entirely useless as a phone, but the requirement of having to always have it connected to an external antenna to get it to work did make it a tad cumbersome to use...
pawadca said:
I've seen similar behavior when one of my foster kids mistook the antenna for a screw while disassembling a blackberry.
The antenna jack is a "normalizing " jack in that when you plug something in a circuit is disconnected and when you unplug it restores the circuit.
if there was a problem with the adapter and it applied too much pressure to the middle pin then it may not have normalized and you would only get signal if you sat under a tower.
This is exactly what happened with the poor blackberry.
Glad to hear Sammy is covering it with warranty, other wise you would have been the proud owner of the only door wedge that plays angry birds.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.

I'd agree that it's a hardware problem, it may actually be that the internal antenna is burned out. I had a similar problem with the wifi on my old ipod.
I used an aftermarket charger which shorted something inside the device. Consequently, the battery would not hold a charge for longer than 15 minutes AND the it would not recognize a wifi signal, unless I held the ipod within inches of the router. Similar to what you experience with the cell towers, except on a smaller scale.
Good luck.

Burning out the antenna itself would require the kind of amperage generated by a lightning strike. Much more likely that even in your situation some circuitry connecting your antenna to the phone blew out.
In my case there was no overvoltage, just a mechanical connection. I think something just got bent beyond its ability to bend back from... I'm guessing here, but I can see a bar inside the antenna connector. When the center pin of the adapter is pushed into the connector, it will make contact with that bar (the bar is at the side of the opening at 90 degrees to the center pin of the adapter) and pushes it to the side to some extent. I am not sure, but I think that maybe it was pushed a tiny bit too far, and it wasn't able to spring back to its original position. I am assuming that when it is pushed to the side it causes the connection to the internal antenna to be disconnected and that its contact with the center pin of the adapter is the connection to the antenna. I am further concluding that if it doesn't spring back to its original position, that the internal antenna is never reconnected.
jwolfburg said:
I'd agree that it's a hardware problem, it may actually be that the internal antenna is burned out. I had a similar problem with the wifi on my old ipod.
I used an aftermarket charger which shorted something inside the device. Consequently, the battery would not hold a charge for longer than 15 minutes AND the it would not recognize a wifi signal, unless I held the ipod within inches of the router. Similar to what you experience with the cell towers, except on a smaller scale.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from wherever I was when I sent it.

Weird rear camera issue

Hi,
I have an Android 5.1 .1 unit with RK3188 chip 1G RAM. All works well but there is a weird rear camera issue. When I start the car and switch to backup gear, the rear camera always works normally, however, after driving 10 minutes or longer the camera does not work anymore and the screen shows an exclamation mark when gear switched to backup. This happens approximately 80% times, while the other 20% times the camera would work OK even after long driving time.
The camera is wired normally with power connected to backup light. Backup light power is also connect to the head unit as trigger for rear camera video.
I was initially thinking this could be a bad camera issue, but the problem persists after installation of a new camera. So it must be the unit.
Has anyone else experienced similar problem? Any help to fix the issue is much appreciated.

yves31 said:
Hi,
I have an Android 5.1 .1 unit with RK3188 chip 1G RAM. All works well but there is a weird rear camera issue. When I start the car and switch to backup gear, the rear camera always works normally, however, after driving 10 minutes or longer the camera does not work anymore and the screen shows an exclamation mark when gear switched to backup. This happens approximately 80% times, while the other 20% times the camera would work OK even after long driving time.
The camera is wired normally with power connected to backup light. Backup light power is also connect to the head unit as trigger for rear camera video.
I was initially thinking this could be a bad camera issue, but the problem persists after installation of a new camera. So it must be the unit.
Has anyone else experienced similar problem? Any help to fix the issue is much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
modern car? possibly smart power management and therefore not sending enough power to the camera as it detects the reverse light not needing that much power. my vw golf does it and my friends bmw 1 series did, if its wired to a switch 12v does it do the same?

fma965 said:
modern car? possibly smart power management and therefore not sending enough power to the camera as it detects the reverse light not needing that much power. my vw golf does it and my friends bmw 1 series did, if its wired to a switch 12v does it do the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.

yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you may need to use a relay to detect when reverse light is on then trigger camera via 12v connection (elsewhere) otherwise the camera will be always on

yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)

fma965 said:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I ordered a 12v/30amp/4pin relay and will install according to your instructions when it arrives.

fma965 said:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...fixings/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin is what i've used (UK)
12v cigareete lighter / battery to 1 pin, gnd to another pin, camera to the 3rd pin and the reverse light power to the 4th pin (not in that order)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Relay came yesterday and I installed it. Pull cigarette lighter as 12v power source, wired to the relay switch, and connected rear light cable to relay as trigger.
To my surprise, the problem of video still persists! I can get rear camera video when starting the car, but loss video ~10 minutes after driving when shifting gear to reverse.
I made sure the relay wired correctly (If connected wrong, I would be either stuck in permanent rear camera video or no video after shifting to rear gear). I changed video cable as well to be sure no cable issue. Also noticed that when the problem appears, I have to wait for the head unit to shutdown completely (not to sleep mode) in order to get video back from rear camera.
Not sure if this is MCU bug. The problem started since I had the unit and MCU got updated once. I'll update one more time to see if anything changes.

yves31 said:
Relay came yesterday and I installed it. Pull cigarette lighter as 12v power source, wired to the relay switch, and connected rear light cable to relay as trigger.
To my surprise, the problem of video still persists! I can get rear camera video when starting the car, but loss video ~10 minutes after driving when shifting gear to reverse.
I made sure the relay wired correctly (If connected wrong, I would be either stuck in permanent rear camera video or no video after shifting to rear gear). I changed video cable as well to be sure no cable issue. Also noticed that when the problem appears, I have to wait for the head unit to shutdown completely (not to sleep mode) in order to get video back from rear camera.
Not sure if this is MCU bug. The problem started since I had the unit and MCU got updated once. I'll update one more time to see if anything changes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What MCU manufacturer and what version? i'm on KGL crossflashed to HA

fma965 said:
What MCU manufacturer and what version? i'm on KGL crossflashed to HA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's MTCD_KD_V2.41_1, and is already the latest version. I'll try to flash other manufacturer's MCU since most of them are compatible.
Prior to flashing, I should start by erasing current MCU settings and set to defaults. Do you know the best way to do so?
Edit:
MCU flashed to HA-2.52, but problem not changed. Seems to be a hardware issue, or compatibility issue with Prius.
I tried to wire rear camera to front video input. Image did show up, but I had to press a button each time when switching to back gear. I may have to live with the issue.

Strangely enough I have a 2010 Prius and yes I have a similar issue. Mine works almost always, but if I switch to reverse, then back to any gear, then back to reverse, more then 5-6 time during a minute, then I have the same as you. I'm pretty sure we have the same cause. If I reboot the unit everything is ok. Our situation is definitely different to the german cars as they have a detection circuit for failed bulb and that is the reason for their issues. Ours don't have that, at least ZVW30 Prius. I doubt it's the power or the camera. That is the unit itself and as you say probably poor hardware design.

Agree with you.
Additional note:
I had some issues after cross flashing MCU. Lost RDS in radio and iGo became very slow. Now I flash original KD MCU back and everything got back to normal. Cross flash MCU may not be always a good idea.

Hi you solved?
Mine do the same..its another car...more strange that mine works fine before i change battery...after that start with problems...
It switch but take 5 mins at least...
I rewire.put relay.put direct 12 and nothins..sometimes it works at second..bit after nothings....
Any help?
Thanks

Hello,
I had the same issue and check voltage. For an insane reason, the wire provided with the radar kit was totaly failing.. measured voltage was around 5 volts whereas camera required 12v ( i though to the USB volatge first, but, no!). This red&black wire, i don't known how, went to a huge resistance... may be pinch. I change for good power wire and throw away the bad one. My rear camera get back...
Bruno

yves31 said:
Thank you, fma965. That makes sense.
The car is 2013 Prius. I did not realize cars are getting much smarter since last few years. 12v can come down a lot to save energy. I'll try to rewire the power connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm looking for someone who knows how to rewire. You guys know a good place?

GPS not getting a lock?

Had a problem earlier where the head unit couldn't get a GPS lock. Occasionally I need to close and re-open the satnav application to get a position, however today it just didn't work. After a few resets and it still not working I opened up the GPS Info app and it could see satellites, however it was a bit erratic. I thought it would settle down, however it didn't. I took the video of it but I can't upload it here as video's don't seem to be allowed?
Anyway it just said 'Invalid', the date, time and speed all showed 0 and the number of satellites kept flipping from 1 to 12 with varying levels of signals (23 through 43).
I had to remove the glovebox yesterday as my wife managed to rip out my USB charging socket when trying to connect her phone (AND spilt a can of Pepsi, and she wonders why I don't like her using my car...). The GPS receiver is installed above the glovebox under the dash. Its possible I damaged the cable on re-installing the glovebox but I was pretty careful.
I'll take it apart tomorrow and have a look. Is this likely the cause or could it be something else? It seems odd that it sees a lot of satellites if the GPS receiver is not connected (i.e. cable broken).
Andy

Is it an MTCD?

marchnz said:
Is it an MTCD?
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Its a PX5 MTCD (says MTCE with MCU update). Its a GS (Xtrons) unit.
I took the head unit out this morning and tried a spare GSP antenna and it worked straight away.
I then took the glovebox out, removed the original GPS antenna, put the spare in there and re-routed the cable so it hopefully won't get crushed if I remove the glovebox again.
All working now. The GPS cable is quite flimsy. I can see on the original one where it is slightly flattened so it must have been this.
Andy