After a year of putting up with the outdated RNS-E in my 2010 TT RS and being disappointed with the pricing and capability of the “name” brands having GPS capability, I decided to go for an Android Head Unit from ATOTO. I was encouraged by some of the on-line reviews I'd seen and when the box arrived I could see that the ATOTO A6 was a nicely made item. I bench-tested the unit using a 12V power source and found everything claimed for the unit to be accurate. I used this opportunity to download some offline maps to give me coverage away from WiFi and mobile phone coverage. I installed it in the Audi, which has a Bose sound system, and am very pleased with the result, with much better sound than the original Audi RNS-E unit. The ATOTO owner's manual is well-written in excellent English, and easy to understand. User support for registered users is also excellent.
What’s in the Box:
It came with the Head Unit, microphone, Wi-Fi antenna, GPS antenna, microphone, 2x USB cables, mounting brackets, plastic trim surrounds, screen protectors (2x), a unit power plug with bare wires, and a double ISO power plug to suit my vehicle (a 2010 Audi TT RS).
What else you need (Connects2 products are branded AerPro in Australia)
Connects2: CTSAD002.2 or AerPro: CHAD3C Audi Can-Bus Steering Wheel Control Interface for cars with full Bose systems.
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Connects2: CT27AA56 or AerPro: APA60 Double Fakra Antenna Adapter
Connects2: CTMULTILEAD.2 or AerPro: APUNIPL2 Patch Lead (for self-learn of steering wheel controls)
Connects2: CT23AU05 or AerPro: FP8022 and FP953000 Facia kit and mounting cradle
ATOTO supplied ISO power Harness for Audi/VW
ATOTO supplied Bare wires Power Harness if you need to fabricate your own
Removing the RNS-E:
Make sure you get a proper set of HU removal keys. I tried some generic ones without success. The Audi/VW/Skoda ones worked perfectly.
You can fit three of the keys into their slots in the RNS-E, but the fourth requires the HU to be powered on so the screen can fold out of the way to allow access. Place a folded towel over the console to prevent damage to the surface during handling.
Once you’ve released the HU, power the HU down or pull the fourth key out quickly before the screen closes automatically. Release the keys by pressing on the spring-loaded retainers on the sides of the HU.
Here’s what’s left after you remove the HU and release the Audi harnesses. Please note this is an Australian delivered car and it does not have a seatbelt warning light to be removed from the original facia – just a blanking plate which is transferred to the new facia.
Installing the Facia Trim – just guide it in, allowing the plastic retainer pieces to bend, then snap into place
Inserting the cradle – guide it in, keeping it square to the facia piece - I had to Dremel the plastic in the corners of the Audi liner to allow easier insertion of the cradle, which was very tight.
Securing the Cradle – use a screwdriver to press as many of the triangular cut-outs into the liner as you can
Attach the mounting plates that came with the facia kit to the sides of the HU. I mounted the plates as far forward as the adjustment allowed to push the HU back as far as possible. There are tiny tabs that fit into slots in the plate, to give positive adjustment. The ATOTO mounting brackets supplied with the HU are not suitable for use with the Connects2 facia.
Assembling the harness and adapters to the HU – here’s what the HU looks like from behind.
Connecting the harnesses and adapter to the HU
Connecting the assembly to the car
The Quadlock connector is the main connection between the HU and the car. The other connections that must be made to the car are:
The aerial Fakra connector adapter to the car’s Fakra connector
Don’t plug the Steering Wheel Control plug into the HU – this is used only when using an aftermarket IR SWC. If plugged in, it prevents operation of the car’s original SWC.
USB and WiFi receivers can be placed in the glovebox in the area to be vacated by the music interface.
The 2x USB cables (one fast charge and one Easy Connect) can also be placed in this area.
There is one car connection that will not be used – this is the 32-pin connector that connects to the top left-hand corner of the rear of the RNS-E. It remains in the space behind the HU.
Booting the Unit up
When I first connected the unit to the car and powered it up, everything worked, except the sound! Disappointing, but I knew the sound worked, from my prior bench-testing. The radio and music displays showed that sound was happening in the HU, but not getting through to the amp. First reaction was to check the blue wire connection that tells the amp to power up. This was connected properly. Following this was a period of consternation and much re-reading of instructions, to no avail. After some serious thinking, I connected my VAG-COM and found that the code to allow an amplifier switch-on by remote wire was not enabled. When I re-coded to do this, all was well. Your vehicle, if optioned the same as mine, may or may not encounter this issue. Advice received from Aerpro was that they had not encountered this issue before, but it was now noted in their notes for installers.
Finishing off
With everything singing and dancing, all that remained was to load some offline maps and music from a smartphone or a WiFi connection, and allow blue-tooth phone connection, and to explore the Android capabilities of the HU. The HU is a good match (in my non-audiophile opinion) for the Bose system and I believe the sound quality is improved over the RNS-E. The HU has a broad range of capabilities, effectively being an Android phone hard-wired to your car, documented very well in the owner’s manual, as well as being well served by ATOTO Customer Support. At this stage, I’m extremely happy with my choice.
great post can I ask where you bought the unit from?
Hi
Mods won't let me post the link, but type "ATOTO A6" into EBay and you should find it...
Atoto A6
Thanks Rob,
I have sent you a PM
h0ssman1 said:
great post can I ask where you bought the unit from?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These can be bought from Amazon as well. There is lots of discussion in the android head unit sub forums. A6 pro is the newest unit.
Rob in Oz said:
After a year of putting up with the outdated RNS-E in my 2010 TT RS and being disappointed with the pricing and capability of the “name” brands having GPS capability, I decided to go for an Android Head Unit from ATOTO. I was encouraged by some of the on-line reviews I'd seen and when the box arrived I could see that the ATOTO A6 was a nicely made item. I bench-tested the unit using a 12V power source and found everything claimed for the unit to be accurate. I used this opportunity to download some offline maps to give me coverage away from WiFi and mobile phone coverage. I installed it in the Audi, which has a Bose sound system, and am very pleased with the result, with much better sound than the original Audi RNS-E unit. The ATOTO owner's manual is well-written in excellent English, and easy to understand. User support for registered users is also excellent.
What’s in the Box:
It came with the Head Unit, microphone, Wi-Fi antenna, GPS antenna, microphone, 2x USB cables, mounting brackets, plastic trim surrounds, screen protectors (2x), a unit power plug with bare wires, and a double ISO power plug to suit my vehicle (a 2010 Audi TT RS).
What else you need (Connects2 products are branded AerPro in Australia)
Connects2: CTSAD002.2 or AerPro: CHAD3C Audi Can-Bus Steering Wheel Control Interface for cars with full Bose systems.
Connects2: CT27AA56 or AerPro: APA60 Double Fakra Antenna Adapter
Connects2: CTMULTILEAD.2 or AerPro: APUNIPL2 Patch Lead (for self-learn of steering wheel controls)
Connects2: CT23AU05 or AerPro: FP8022 and FP953000 Facia kit and mounting cradle
ATOTO supplied ISO power Harness for Audi/VW
ATOTO supplied Bare wires Power Harness if you need to fabricate your own
Removing the RNS-E:
Make sure you get a proper set of HU removal keys. I tried some generic ones without success. The Audi/VW/Skoda ones worked perfectly.
You can fit three of the keys into their slots in the RNS-E, but the fourth requires the HU to be powered on so the screen can fold out of the way to allow access. Place a folded towel over the console to prevent damage to the surface during handling.
Once you’ve released the HU, power the HU down or pull the fourth key out quickly before the screen closes automatically. Release the keys by pressing on the spring-loaded retainers on the sides of the HU.
Here’s what’s left after you remove the HU and release the Audi harnesses. Please note this is an Australian delivered car and it does not have a seatbelt warning light to be removed from the original facia – just a blanking plate which is transferred to the new facia.
Installing the Facia Trim – just guide it in, allowing the plastic retainer pieces to bend, then snap into place
Inserting the cradle – guide it in, keeping it square to the facia piece - I had to Dremel the plastic in the corners of the Audi liner to allow easier insertion of the cradle, which was very tight.
Securing the Cradle – use a screwdriver to press as many of the triangular cut-outs into the liner as you can
Attach the mounting plates that came with the facia kit to the sides of the HU. I mounted the plates as far forward as the adjustment allowed to push the HU back as far as possible. There are tiny tabs that fit into slots in the plate, to give positive adjustment. The ATOTO mounting brackets supplied with the HU are not suitable for use with the Connects2 facia.
Assembling the harness and adapters to the HU – here’s what the HU looks like from behind.
Connecting the harnesses and adapter to the HU
Connecting the assembly to the car
The Quadlock connector is the main connection between the HU and the car. The other connections that must be made to the car are:
The aerial Fakra connector adapter to the car’s Fakra connector
Don’t plug the Steering Wheel Control plug into the HU – this is used only when using an aftermarket IR SWC. If plugged in, it prevents operation of the car’s original SWC.
USB and WiFi receivers can be placed in the glovebox in the area to be vacated by the music interface.
The 2x USB cables (one fast charge and one Easy Connect) can also be placed in this area.
There is one car connection that will not be used – this is the 32-pin connector that connects to the top left-hand corner of the rear of the RNS-E. It remains in the space behind the HU.
Booting the Unit up
When I first connected the unit to the car and powered it up, everything worked, except the sound! Disappointing, but I knew the sound worked, from my prior bench-testing. The radio and music displays showed that sound was happening in the HU, but not getting through to the amp. First reaction was to check the blue wire connection that tells the amp to power up. This was connected properly. Following this was a period of consternation and much re-reading of instructions, to no avail. After some serious thinking, I connected my VAG-COM and found that the code to allow an amplifier switch-on by remote wire was not enabled. When I re-coded to do this, all was well. Your vehicle, if optioned the same as mine, may or may not encounter this issue. Advice received from Aerpro was that they had not encountered this issue before, but it was now noted in their notes for installers.
Finishing off
With everything singing and dancing, all that remained was to load some offline maps and music from a smartphone or a WiFi connection, and allow blue-tooth phone connection, and to explore the Android capabilities of the HU. The HU is a good match (in my non-audiophile opinion) for the Bose system and I believe the sound quality is improved over the RNS-E. The HU has a broad range of capabilities, effectively being an Android phone hard-wired to your car, documented very well in the owner’s manual, as well as being well served by ATOTO Customer Support. At this stage, I’m extremely happy with my choice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, awesome post, how did you connect the SWC wires. the connects2 comes with key1, key2 and gnd but how are they connected to the head unit so that it works
Hi do anybody knows where I can buy a atoto power harness at
Related
Yesterday I installed my new CraigsDocks dock for my AT&T Galaxy S3.
I give it two :good: :good: up.
I created a DIY USB-OTG with power cable.
So the phone gets dropped into the dock.
It goes into dock mode automatically.
This USB-OTG cable bypasses the internal crappy DAC and sends digital audio out to my Behringer UCA202 DAC.
Which then sends the converted analog signal to my car stereo.
Here's my review/how-to on the whole DAC to Car Stereo thing:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2033527
The dock is much smaller in profile than my iBOLT dock. And also easier to put the phone in and remove it from the dock.
It's also more heavy duty and looks pretty good.
My DIY cable of course, detracts from the looks. But it's not too bad.
The dock is very sturdy. I can easily put the phone in one handed. It just slides right into the USB-OTG connector.
Youtube video of my dock in action.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Rda6Vsd9Wc&feature=youtu.be
MFG's info & ordering page for CraigsDocks:
http://www.craigsdocks.com/samsung-galaxy-s3-car-dock/
Pics.
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I haven't had a chance to test it yet, but it sounds like according to the MFGR, that the supplied MicroUSB power/media cable that comes with the dock is actually USB-OTG capable. Either as-is, or with a small DIY mod. I didn't understand exactly.
I'm still incredibly happy with this dock. I have yet to need both hands to insert my phone. True one-handed connect in and remove phone action! :good:
Another benefit to this dock is that because it's adjustable, it will probably work for any similar sized phone with MicroUSB on the bottom. I wouldn't even be surprised if a NOTE II works in this dock. Or a GSIII with extended (fatter) battery + large case.
Wiring
Cz Eddie,
I am surprised at how little action this thread has received.
I wish the CraigsDock was around before the Ibolt. Hmmm, maybe it was.
All my past car docks were this type of one handed in/out deal and I miss it.
I will probably get one soon.
When I did the analog out of micro usb tests months ago, I went as far as having my own hand made cable wired to output sound but got terrible machine/cpu noise and gargle if I had both power and audio in the car. I tested it in the house with use wall power...same thing. I tested with a ground loop isolator...worse.
So, right now I have the Ibolt and a custom plug coming out of it that plugs into the headphone jack...works fine actually. But it 2 hands and 4 steps to plug it all in...Vs 1 hand, 1 step via your brilliant craigsdock setup. Love it.
Have you shared your DIY wiring scheme for the CraigsDock + DAC?
If yes, can you point me to it. (I have read your dac thread...I don't remember seeing it there)
Cheers
themadproducer said:
When I did the analog out of micro usb tests months ago, I went as far as having my own hand made cable wired to output sound but got terrible machine/cpu noise and gargle if I had both power and audio in the car. I tested it in the house with use wall power...same thing. I tested with a ground loop isolator...worse.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The reason I went with USB-DAC was because of the higher quality audio. But mostly because analog USB just had bits of low level noise that annoyed me.
themadproducer said:
So, right now I have the Ibolt and a custom plug coming out of it that plugs into the headphone jack...works fine actually. But it 2 hands and 4 steps to plug it all in...Vs 1 hand, 1 step via your brilliant craigsdock setup. Love it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, the Craigsdock is true one-handed operation. You have to mess with the dock settings to get it perfect. It took me about 5-10 minutes, but the phone smoothly slips right into the USB connector and is nice and stable.
themadproducer said:
Have you shared your DIY wiring scheme for the CraigsDock + DAC?
If yes, can you point me to it. (I have read your dac thread...I don't remember seeing it there)
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's either in this thread or the USB-DAC thread?
I just bought a very short USB-OTG connector that had a right-angle microUSB connector for the phone plugin at the dock.
Then I bought a normal, USB extension cable.
And bought a three way normal USB-OTG cable (USB-OTG plus a USB connector for charging).
I snipped off one end of the short USB-OTG and matched the four wires by color to the straight (longer) USB cable. Then took that end and matched it up to the three-way USB-OTG cable. Again, just soldering the four wires to each other. All the colors matched up perfectly.
Wish I didn't lose the pics I took of that procedure. I'd post them if I still had them.
It was all super easy to do.
Cables needed for DAC for Craig's Dock?
CZ Eddie said:
Well, it's either in this thread or the USB-DAC thread?
I just bought a very short USB-OTG connector that had a right-angle microUSB connector for the phone plugin at the dock.
Then I bought a normal, USB extension cable.
And bought a three way normal USB-OTG cable (USB-OTG plus a USB connector for charging).
I snipped off one end of the short USB-OTG and matched the four wires by color to the straight (longer) USB cable. Then took that end and matched it up to the three-way USB-OTG cable. Again, just soldering the four wires to each other. All the colors matched up perfectly.
Wish I didn't lose the pics I took of that procedure. I'd post them if I still had them.
It was all super easy to do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, first CZ Eddie, you have been so helpful with this thread and the "The $43 Galaxy S3 + Car Stereo Upgrade for WaaaY better sound quality! USB-DAC Audio" thread. THANK YOU!
I finally bought a new car stereo and will be having it installed by a local company (I am not too handy with vehicle installations). The car stereo has aux and USB on the front side (I want to keep USB on front open for thumb drive music). I purchased a Craigs Dock (from the website you listed above - awesome!) as well. I want to provide the installer with AS MUCH OF THE EQUIPMENT as possible, and a detailed diagram on how to create what you created with the USB-DAC using the Craigs Dock.
As of now I believe I will need to provide the following for a clean installation (can you please tell me if I'm missing something like a necessary connector or cable to connect to Craigs Dock?):
* Two-USB cigarette lighter power source (from amazon, RAVPower® Car USB Charger Dual USB Port 3.1A(2.1A+1A) / 15.5W / ...)
* The new Car Stereo Kenwood KDC-X896 (I can't post links here)
* Craigs Dock (powered by USB connector in cigarette lighter)
* Behringer UCA202 USB DAC (same as posted in your thread, connected to RCA audio cable to aux in on front of stereo)
* Micro USB Host OTG Cable with Micro USB Power for Samsung i9100 i9300 i9220 i9250 (same as posted in your thread; connected from DAC's USB to a power source/micro USB, and then the other end to the Craigs Dock)
* 3.5mm Male To (2) RCA Stereo Audio Cable - (6 Feet) - Step Down Design accommodates iPhone, iTouch, SmartPhones & MP3 cases
* Mini USB male to USB male (for connecting DAC power end to cigarette lighter USB) - such as the Amazon basics A-Male-Mini-B-Cable-...)
Am I missing something? How do I connect the Micro USB Host OTG Cable end into the Craigs Dock?
Thanks for any help you can offer!
ebrowni said:
Thanks for any help you can offer!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does USB-DAC work again for the S3? Last time I checked, it wasn't working on AOSP ROM's. I have an S4 now though so I have not kept up on things.
Btw, the S4 fits in the same Craigsdock just fine. So does the NOTE II.
I recommend this setup for power. It's cleaner and works better. Just tie it into any 12V power lead.
http://img2.media.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=43697113
You don't want Mini-USB. You need Micro-USB.
So, in this pic where it says "This end goes to MicroUSB Power Source", I would just cut off that end of the cable and hard wire it to the power source I linked above.
I don't use DAC's anymore. I use the APT-X Bluetooth codec. It's 95% as good as a DAC when it comes to sound. But 5000% more convenient.
It won't win any audio awards but it's much better than regular Bluetooth and almost as good as DAC.
No need for DAC? OK much easier.
CZ Eddie said:
I recommend this setup for power. It's cleaner and works better. Just tie it into any 12V power lead.
http://img2.media.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=43697113
You don't want Mini-USB. You need Micro-USB.
I don't use DAC's anymore. I use the APT-X Bluetooth codec. It's 95% as good as a DAC when it comes to sound. But 5000% more convenient.
It won't win any audio awards but it's much better than regular Bluetooth and almost as good as DAC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks CZ Eddie! So, from what I'm reading I will just use my APT-X Bluetooth codec (inherent in the S4) to stream through my Kenwood audio system, which is bluetooth compatible. (I'm OK with a 5% less quality sound by using the bluetooth!) So the only thing I will need to do is connect the CraigsDock to the power source. Is that it?! To get high quality sound?! It just seams too easy!
ebrowni said:
Thanks CZ Eddie! So, from what I'm reading I will just use my APT-X Bluetooth codec (inherent in the S4) to stream through my Kenwood audio system, which is bluetooth compatible. (I'm OK with a 5% less quality sound by using the bluetooth!) So the only thing I will need to do is connect the CraigsDock to the power source. Is that it?! To get high quality sound?! It just seams too easy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Amazingly easy. I love being to remove the phone from the dock and the audio never stops playing.
All you need the dock for is for charging and to hold the phone at eye level.
You can also use Car Home Ultra to give you a car friendly interface. I have mine set so Car Home Ultra automatically wakes the phone and opens up as soon as it senses the bluetooth connection.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=spinninghead.carhome.license&hl=en
Oh but one problem. No current Car Stereo has APT-X capability.
So you have to buy an APT-X receiver and plug that into the AUX-input of your car stereo.
That's the easy part. The only hard part is hard-wiring the APT-X receiver into a power source. But you can share the same power source that the phone will use.
This is the APT-X receiver I have:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Rocketf...iver/5654132.p?id=1218679203690&skuId=5654132
I'll do a DIY thread here someday. I've had this setup for a few months and it's great.
Thanks so much - Another question... Of course!
CZ Eddie said:
Oh but one problem. No current Car Stereo has APT-X capability.
So you have to buy an APT-X receiver and plug that into the AUX-input of your car stereo.
That's the easy part. The only hard part is hard-wiring the APT-X receiver into a power source. But you can share the same power source that the phone will use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info on the App! I'll get that setup on my S4 once everything's in place. Also thanks for the link to the Rocketfish on bestbuy.
A few more questions (of course!):
* On installation, can I have the Rocketfish placed behind the stereo/out of sight, with it continuing to work/without interference? Assuming I hard-wire it for power then that would be easiest.
* Also, I'm guessing that I need to buy an aux cable to connect to the front aux input of my car stereo. HOWEVER, I'm attaching a picture of the back of the kenwood kdc-x896 - is there another way that I could connect to the car stereo using the connections offered in the back? then the front of the stereo would be completely clean and it would be integrated behind the stereo.
What do you think?
Thank you!
ebrowni said:
* On installation, can I have the Rocketfish placed behind the stereo/out of sight, with it continuing to work/without interference? Assuming I hard-wire it for power then that would be easiest.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely. Mine is buried way deep inside my dash somewhere.
Hard wired power for a few months... not a single problem with it at all.
It turns on when my ignition key turns. And turns off the same way.
It connects to my phone super quick every time I get in the car. I don't have to initiate the connection, ever.
ebrowni said:
Also, I'm guessing that I need to buy an aux cable to connect to the front aux input of my car stereo. HOWEVER, I'm attaching a picture of the back of the kenwood kdc-x896 - is there another way that I could connect to the car stereo using the connections offered in the back? then the front of the stereo would be completely clean and it would be integrated behind the stereo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, you have to connect to the AUX on the front.
You can find car stereo's with rear AUX. It's harder to find them, but they are out there.
If you can handle having a car stereo with rear USB input (run a cord to the front for your USB stick), then there are a couple stereos near your price range that have rear 3.5mm AUX input:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-IuY1I6ICy10/p_105KDX80BT/JVC-KD-X80BT.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-eYwsaEZ5rq0/p_113KDCX996/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X996.html
Just hafta search for the good prices on the Kenwood. I saw it under $200 somewhere.
Thanks for your help!
CZ Eddie said:
Absolutely. Mine is buried way deep inside my dash somewhere.
Hard wired power for a few months... not a single problem with it at all.
It turns on when my ignition key turns. And turns off the same way.
It connects to my phone super quick every time I get in the car. I don't have to initiate the connection, ever.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AWESOME! I'll just tuck it in behind and hard wire to the battery with the craigsdock power... So great that the ignition starts everything and it automatically connects.
CZ Eddie said:
Nope, you have to connect to the AUX on the front. You can find car stereo's with rear AUX. It's harder to find them, but they are out there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I already bought the Kenwood after lots of research... The KDC-x996 looked great but the downfall (for me) was CD insertion; it has to be done with the faceplate off, and I'm "old school" (haha) and like CDs still. Thanks so much for the suggestions with the rear inputs! I'm really happy that the only cable that will be seen (aside from the Craigsdock power line) is the aux input on the front. Very excited to get this setup! Thanks CZ Eddie!
Hi, i hope this is the right forum to post my problem.
I have brought up this issue before, but would like to use the new layout to post again.
I'm still having issues with the SWC controls sending a repeat signal (3 repeats) every time one of the SWC buttons are pressed. I have tried apps like CarService and assigned a delay to the key press, but it does not seem to have any effect.
Has anyone had this issue before and how was it resolved? Is this a know issue or am i not setting it up correctly...
does this happen all the time or just during / short time after startup?
Hi @darkalex, this is a continues problem and is not affected by startup or uptime. I have kept my MCU and firmware updated with the hope that a update would fix it.
@kvantum had a similar problem with his SWC.
Posted in: Old Q&A-Thread - This Thread will be split into multiple KB-Thread soon Post #1868
"SWC and CANBUS
Ok so I've been dealing with a problem for some time, but my seller is now stumped, apparently involving an engineer at this point.
Wondering if anyone else experienced the same - I can't be the only one.
I have a KLYDE unit made for a mazda CX-5, and the SWC controls are... strange
Some buttons, when I hit them - get registered as 3 presses. So skipping a song skips 3. Hitting VOL+ increases by 3, etc. Pickup/hangup don't work.
The app for button re-mapping doesn't register any keypresses at all. CANBUS app sees me opening and closing a door. Seller confirmed I got the right decoder for my car, and all the settings are correct, including canbus type in Factory Settings.
Has anyone else experienced such behaviour?"
Oh yea, this issue drove me nuts
Seller/"engineer" couldn't figure it out. I ended up fixing it myself. The problem is with the canbus box.
To fix it you'll need to do some cable splicing.
There are 3 cables going from swc into the stereo - 2 data one return. One data for media and one for Bluetooth controls. You may have 1 data 1 return. It depends on the car.
Each button represents different resistor value. Stereo monitors this resistor value to determine if a button is pressed and which one, depending on resistance read. This is what's supposed to happen with that button learning utility in settings. You may have noticed that it's useless right now.
So, these cables are currently going into the canbus box, which interprets the resistor values and sends a command to android via serial interface, and it does send 3 signals (I monitored the serial port).
The stereo itself has the input cables necessary to interpret the resistor values itself without canbus unit.
My stereo unit has a schematic on top, and those cables are called Key1 & Key2 for data and "Steering wheel ground" for return.
In my case the data wires were just hanging loose, and steering wheel ground was connected to regular ground.
So, I had to figure out which cables to cut going into the canbus box. I happened to have a schematic for my car, but there are ways to figure it out without it. Feel free to post picture of your canbus box, one of the top and one of the cable connector, bonus if you got the full cable connector pic as well. I can help you figure it out.
So, what I've done is cut those cables away from canbus box and connected them directly to stereo. Now all buttons behave properly, and the button learning utility works as well. And since the canbus box is still connected, the door open indicator still works as well.
Also I bought a reverse camera which wouldn't turn on when in reverse gear. I managed to fix that by splicing cables as well.
I only got one picture of the actual work I did.
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I added some connectors so I could easily switch back if I had to, but I never did because everything works great now.
So, if you decide to go through with all of this, feel free to ask questions. Be as detailed as possible describing your set up if it looks different than mine, take lots of pictures, I'll try to help as much as I can.
PS Oh hey, new layout!
Thanks so much @kvantum, this is really awesome news and thanks for the explanation. I'm going to try this out on Saturday and hopefully i wouldn't have to bug you to much.
PS: I'm not able to see the picture you added, but i'm sure i'll manage.
I'll take your advise and document the mod and add to the forum later on, if successful.
I really appreciate the reply and i hope this will reach others that was struggling with this issue.
My specs for reference:
Vehicle: 2010 VW Jetta 5 1.4TSI DSG
Head Unit: KGL
Can you see the picture now?
And I have a correction to make. Looking at the image, I'm realizing that "steering wheel ground" was just going to regular ground.
So on the car end I didn't terminate that cable anywhere. On the stereo end that cable was already spliced into ground (you can see the bundle spliced under my nail in the photo above)
I can see you picture now, thanks!
I have taken some pictures of my setup, but not sure how to upload them (should i upload them somewhere and then post the link or how do you embed them?)
My Key1 & Key2 wires are also hanging loose so i suppose my mod will be similar to yours. I have the plug pinouts for both the head unit and the VW EOM square plug so it should not be to difficult to find the right wire to splice.
Once i figure out how to upload the pics i'll do so (Some guidance here will be appreciated)
Just to add, my CAN BUS does not show any of the car information. No indication of doors that are open and it also does not display any radio/music info in die instrument cluster...
Is there a trick to get this working or should it be working in the first place?
With all of these features not working i'm not actually certain what the Can Bus Box does in my setup.
I don't think there's a way to upload pictures to the forum. I use my web site. If you have dropbox you can put them into your public folder and embed or link. Include your schematic/pinouts too if you want me to confirm.
Canbus box might be responsible for things like dimming trigger when you turn headlights on or reverse camera trigger when in reverse gear. It wasn't in my case, but I've heard of others with such setup. Disconnect it and see if anything stops working.
I don't know of a simple way to get the canbus box to do more than what it does. Same as I don't know how to stop it from sending 3 signals instead of 1. They programmed it, and it's not worth trying to reverse engineer it.
I am however playing around with arduino canbus shield so I can have complete control of the information sent to the stereo. That'll take a while though as it's not really my priority right now.
The CANbus (controller area network bus) is a vehicle bus standard designed to allow devices to communicate with each other without the need of a host computer.
The HU don't come with a CAN bus they have a Decoder Box that tries to interpret signals on the bus for the HU. If you are having problems with the HU not responding correctly either you have the wrong decoder, the HU is set up for the wrong decoder, or that function is not available with aftermarket decoder boxes.
Maybe Contact Rambo @joying. When I original bought my unit they didn't support factory amps. I had to use a PAC decoder. Then he told me that they figured it out and he sent me a new decoder box. After replacing the PAC, all kinds of things started showing up.
What Vehicle, HU?
I have a 2014 Mazda CX-5 with a Klyde HU
My canbus decoder actually says CX-5 on it. Interesting to hear if there's a better decoder out there, I couldn't find anything
@kvantum As you can see i also have the Key1 & Key2 wires that are not connectet. If i understand correctly i must connect the (Brown) Key1 &Key2 wires directly to the CAN + and CAN - (Green) wires on the VW Quad Socket. How do i know which wire to connect to what pin. Eg Key1 -> CAN + and Key2 -> CAN - or vice versa?
Hear are the pictures of my wiring harness, CANBUS Decoder and VW Quadlock Socket as well as the wiring diagrams for the HU and the VW OEM Socket.
Wire to enable or disable CANBUS Power ON control of the HU:
CANBUS Decoder:
Head Unit Wiring Diagram:
Loose Wires [Brake, Amp-Ctrl, Key1 &Key2]:
VW OEM PLUG:
VW OEM PLUG Wiring Diagram:
VW Plug n Play socket:
Wiring Harness:
Hi have a 2010 VW Jetta 5 1.4TSI DSG and a HuiFei/Kei Ge Le [KGL] Head Unit
Ok, bad news.
Looks like your car doesn't supply direct wires to the steering wheel controls.
In my car, I had SWC wires going directly to the stereo.
In your case, SWC send signal to CANBUS, then stereo sniffs the signals from CANBUS, with no SWC cables to the stereo.
Unfortunately, there is no easy/cheap workaround for you. Sorry
Here are some other options I can think of:
-If you don't care about radio and stock mp3 player and instead use aftermarket MP3 player, there's CarService app that's now included with Malaysk's roms. On my request @KeiserSozeyFr included an option to ignore repeated button presses up to x ms (configurable).
Also available here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=53678587&postcount=1179
This was before I was able to figure out the wiring, but I believe the option is still there. Volume will still jump in 3s though.
-Try finding another decoder, or see if SWI-X by pac-audio can do the job
-See if your steering wheel has 2 or 3 cables coming from the SWC module before hitting canbus. To see if you can use them, use a multimeter to measure resistance between those cables (disconnect them first). When pressing a button, you should see changing resistance. If this is the case, then you'll need to connect those to key1+gnd (also key2 if there are 3 cables instead of 2)
-put arduino on the serial interface between canbus decoder and stereo. You can use it to catch the signals from decoder, drop the two repeats, and send single command on to the stereo.
Maybe someone else has better suggestions, but that's what I can think of.
Ah damn, thats unfortunate. Luckily i have not made any changes to the wiring as of yet, just as well.
Thanks for all your input! Much appreciated. I have tried CarService before, but i'll give the new ROM and CS a bash. Maybe just maybe it will work.
Hopefully someone else can assist, but the arduino option sounds like a fun project to explore. Any advise regarding the arduino circuit will be more than welcome.
It's been a while since I've last programmed something...
If you do decide to go the arduino way, I can help out.
It should be fairly simple, with maybe 20 lines of code total.
You can get mini arduino board from ali/ebay for under $5
I would also recommend getting some 2/4-pin male/female connector pairs so that you can easily switch between stock/modified wiring configurations.
Arduino technically has only one serial port, but there's a software serial library that you can use to turn digital pins into more serial ports
For wiring you'll need to cut the two serial cables(TX/RX) between stereo and canbus decoder. Plus you'll need to splice into power + ground to power the arduino(it can take 12V on the VIN pin)
Then serial cables going from canbus box get hooked up to one serial port, from stereo - to another.
I have been reading up on the Arduino option and it looks like most people use this Ardruino Board:
ARD UNO REV3
http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P1424521842
and this shield:
CAN-Bus Shield Microchip MCP2515 CAN controller with MCP2551 CAN transceiver
http://www.communica.co.za/Catalog/Details/P1865739722
The CAN- and CAN+ connect to the shield and then the shield connects to the ardruino board via the seriel port or pin connections ? Arduino is then connects to a pc via USB to display output and write the code. The interpreted code is then sent via the serial connection/pins to the Rx and Tx inputs on the Head Unit?
Do you by chance know at what bus speed my VW CANBUS runs?
I'm planning to visit the electronics shop on Friday, if it doesn't work out to be to expensive to build. Otherwise i'll try online shops, but will need to figure out exactly what i'll need first.
Have you managed to finish and test your Arduino setup and get it working 100%
@Hein3G I have a 2012 Jetta with a factory amp. The PAC decoder did not allow for SWC but it did turn on the factory Amp. Which is why I harassed Rambo at Joying until they figured out how to turn the Amp on through the CANbus decoder. It cost me $20 in shipping to have them send me the new decoder. It was well worth it.
In the harness they sent me the Key1 and Key2 wires went to the decoder box plug they are not loose. The only loose wires are the Blue power ant., Orange/black ext amp, and the red ACC. My decoder says:
(VW-XZM-03) 18/09/15
For Passat, Sagitar, Tigu, Golf6, Touran, Magotan, Jetta
software: V2.3A (JY)
The decoder they sent you may be the wrong one or outdated. I would contact them before doing anything complicated or expensive.
You CAN get Rear RCA Pre-Outs working with a little wiring mod to the Audio/Video cable!
No need to add extra hardware to have Rear feed to factory, or aftermarket amps!
Recently bought a MTCD Android branded as a Pumpkin RQ0278 Android HU for my 1999 Infiniti Q45 with the Bose 4 channel Factory Amp. Well, the Audio/Video plug that came with it had only Front RCA Pre-Amp Outs. No Rear L, & R Pre-Outs! The Pumpkin support forum sucks, and google searches for other generic unit harnesses was fruitless for me.
So, I took a look at the Audio/Video plug and noticed that not all of the slots in the white plastic plug were populated with wires.
So, look at the plug from the side that the wires are going in. Notice the cavities where the Front Pre-Amp wires are going into the plug. Red wire is Right, and White is Left. The shielding braid is a common ground for both channels, and is tied together under the shrink wrap. Now notice the vacant cavities to the Left of the Front Pre-Amp wires,...These are REAR Pre-Amp connection points!
I just took the RCA cables for the Video Out 1, and 2 plugs (which I will not be using), out of the connector, and used them for the Rear Pre-Outs. Red lead next to Red, and White next to White. Jumpered the shielding over to the Front shielding, and insulated the connections.
Sorry no pictures for this post, but unit is back in car now, and it was a hassle to fit it back into the Infiniti dash, but I now have the factory Amp working on all four channels with functional balance and fader controls working in the radio software!
If you are technically inclined enough to be reading threads in this forum, then you can do this mod, and avoid having to buy extra hardware to get rear RCA Pre-Amp Outputs. Hope this helps someone with a rebranded generic unit that the selling company was too cheap to put the output cables in the plug.
TECHADDICT5610 said:
You CAN get Rear RCA Pre-Outs working with a little wiring mod to the Audio/Video cable!
No need to add extra hardware to have Rear feed to factory, or aftermarket amps!
Recently bought a MTCD Android branded as a Pumpkin RQ0278 Android HU for my 1999 Infiniti Q45 with the Bose 4 channel Factory Amp. Well, the Audio/Video plug that came with it had only Front RCA Pre-Amp Outs. No Rear L, & R Pre-Outs! The Pumpkin support forum sucks, and google searches for other generic unit harnesses was fruitless for me.
So, I took a look at the Audio/Video plug and noticed that not all of the slots in the white plastic plug were populated with wires.
So, look at the plug from the side that the wires are going in. Notice the cavities where the Front Pre-Amp wires are going into the plug. Red wire is Right, and White is Left. The shielding braid is a common ground for both channels, and is tied together under the shrink wrap. Now notice the vacant cavities to the Left of the Front Pre-Amp wires,...These are REAR Pre-Amp connection points!
I just took the RCA cables for the Video Out 1, and 2 plugs (which I will not be using), out of the connector, and used them for the Rear Pre-Outs. Red lead next to Red, and White next to White. Jumpered the shielding over to the Front shielding, and insulated the connections.
Sorry no pictures for this post, but unit is back in car now, and it was a hassle to fit it back into the Infiniti dash, but I now have the factory Amp working on all four channels with functional balance and fader controls working in the radio software!
If you are technically inclined enough to be reading threads in this forum, then you can do this mod, and avoid having to buy extra hardware to get rear RCA Pre-Amp Outputs. Hope this helps someone with a rebranded generic unit that the selling company was too cheap to put the output cables in the plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mate I have the same problem and there are empty slots next to the front RCA outs. How do you add wires to those slots and do you need to configure them through android to act as rear RCA outs? Pictures would help a lot. Thanks in advance.
Hello! I've got a 2018 Toyota Auris (yes, i know, in the USA is named Corolla). I changed the radio for a Dasaita PX6 radio with DSP and Android 10.
[**Link to the radio**](https://es.aliexpress.com/item/33011976959.html)
It came with an external Microphone but they don't allow you to use the OEM microphone wich was... honestly perfect. This is what the radio came with:
[**Image of the radio with all the accesories**]
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The microphone connects via 3.5mm Mini Jack. I tested it and I turned the microphone amplification to +10db because if i had it lower, NOBODY CAN HEAR ME. So... +10db, ok.
The audio quality in calls was so horrific that I thought... well maybe is this ****ty microphone, lets try another one. So I bought the Sony ECM-CS3:
[**Sony ECM-CS3 (beautiful)**]
I connected it with the same settings (remember, less than +10db means nobody can hear me), and... I still had the same Issue. The microphone audio is distorted as hell. I tested it by recording a call with my girlfriend. I'm the dude... and i can't even understand myself. The worst part is in the middle, when I am driving in the highway (min. 8 aprox):
[**Sound proof**] (https://freesound.org/s/573025/)
I though about trying to Isolate the microphone with foam because my actual setup is this:
It has foam underneath for vibrations, but the actual microphone has no foam around. I'll test it later but for me it looks more like a software issue.
What do you think? Any idea of how to improve the sound quality? I found this post in a Tacoma forum where **a guy found a way to use the OEM microphone from Toyota in an Android Unit**. But I am scared of not being compatible with the Corollas:
[**Link to his adapter**](https://tombit.com/product/3rd-gen-toyota-tacoma-mic-adapter-atc-ato-fuse-type/)
[**Link to the forum post**](https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-tacoma-oem-mic-adapter.714665/)
Oh! I made a video (in Spanish, sorry. But **it has English subs!**) showing the whole setup of the radio where you can see everything better:
[**Radio Setup**](
)
You have to use the dasaita mic. Other mics don't have the same impedance.
As for quality... maybe your mic or mic input is defective? I use the dasaita mic (and android phone) with no issues.
Bob_Sanders said:
You have to use the dasaita mic. Other mics don't have the same impedance.
As for quality... maybe your mic or mic input is defective? I use the dasaita mic (and android phone) with no issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you mean the internal one or the external that came inside the box?
The external. I have never tried the internal
I have a 2015 Corolla ZRE181R. I managed the built in mic to work on my Dasaita PX6 MAX10-CP (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001566063752.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2d8f7fdcmptC4w). The trim panel bit I bought from Joying a while back - allows your Corolla (Pre-2017) to take a 200x100 toyota universal unit. Also canbus cables is CB004 so you need to get it from a different listing and not the listing for the toyota universal unit.
But before I got this to work, I ended up blowing a little SPDT switch on the board and that shorted the mic input to ground and I could not even use my front panel mic. My temporary solution was replacing the analog SPDT switch (marked with MIAKI) with a 1kiloohm resistor (across the common and normally closed connection). My brother knows how to do SMD soldering/de-soldering so he helped me on that one (with a little fee). MTKNAVI (the seller on aliexpress) was kind enough to tell me which part I needed to fix the board with once I found where the fault was.
It should be the same unit as yours with a different front panel - just a heads up but all these units are quite generic and even the mainboard uses an STM32 microcontroller and the PX6 board is removable.
Attached is what I worked out - try at your own risk. It may allow you to reuse the amplified mic on the harness and it will sound "OK" but I still have to put this through a road test... If someone comes round to selling this for cheap in a kit - send me a free sample. A decoupling capacitor is recommended for when you wire the buck converter to your cigarette lighter connections. The ground strap for the wiring shield is separate - it never gets connected to the microphone but prevents the wiring from picking up noise.
If you need to read up wiring diagrams get them from toyota-tech.eu or any reliable source which is official or even google can help.
Remember the Dasaita supplied mic (even on the front panel) is around 1kiloohm resistance - anything that is much lower impedance may blow up something on the board and you will need help then. Also cannot confirm if the powered mic will not blow the spdt switch again if I replace it and put in a resistance on the input mic. Someone please see if there is perhaps a protection circuit to add on the mic. Any amplified mic will go boom
Your thoughts?
@nxdesign WOW! I was think of trying something similar in my CHR, great job, man! So I basically need to power the factory mic and run a 1k resistor before plugging it's output into the Dasaita, right?
@nxdesign That's it! Tomorrow I'm doing it! Got a 1k + 5k variable resistor so I can tune the attenuating resistance between 1k and 6k.
I wouldn't use a switching regulator, use a linear 7805.
The "protector" is a capacitor connected directly to the head unit mic+/input. 0.1uf should be fine.
Update: It works!
I left the resistance set to the maximum it can do, which is total 5.6Kohm.
For anyone reading this, if you have the same 2018 Toyota CHR + JBL model, you need to take 12V power from somewhere else, as it's not present in F80 pin 3. I just used the Front Camera power cable from the Dasaita unit, but you can splice any ACC power.
Before plugging in, I checked on an oscilloscope and voltage that I put at mic input to Dasaita was +/- about 30mV. Seems high compared to a passive mic, but it seems to clip only if I purposely talk loud close to the mic in the roof. I'll see if I need to increase the resistance more
@nxdesign your schematic works, thanks a lot! And I confirm I didn't fry anything. When I plugged the jack in the unit, it was still using the internal mic and it was working fine. After a reboot, it started using the car microphone.
@marchnz If you're talking about the buck converter, it's a LM2596. What you wrote is above my current understanding of electronics.
@RPG0 Your setup looks clean but once you are happy with it then do remember to wrap in some wiring harness tape so it's not just wires all over the place and the wires don't get damaged over time. Your regulator needs some kind of enclosure or tape up with kapton tape to prevent any shorts and the like. I used the cigarette lighter connector - you can easily crimp a tap-off if you need ACC. There is also ACC going to the unit - it's the red or yellow wire in the harness that dasaita provides. I reused a power supply for one of these crappy mirror units my dad had in his car - it turned out to inject the least noise from what I had on hand. Once you find the perfect resistance for this I might just do the same for my setup.
@marchnz LM7805 works by wasting the energy to reach that specific voltage (e.g. 5V). Higher the gap between the input and the output - the more heat dissipated. If the upstream is noisy it may not be good enough to filter out the noise at specific frequencies. Some switch mode power supplies have really come a long way and with a switching regulator you really need to massage it to make it smooth. It's the easiest option for most people out there. Even using the LM7805 after a good switching regulator that would be better - you avoid overloading your linear regulator and you killed a lot of the input noise in the switching regulator. If you have a good idea on how to obtain nice stable noise free voltage then we would like to hear it.
I ordered a Daisata 12V to 6V supply intended for original Toyota reversing cameras from the Daisata official store to see if this is something to recommend for the microphone amp power supply. When it arrives and I manage to upgrade the harness with it then I will keep you posted on it. I would assume this what the original Toyota unit would do - with a 6V rail to power the mic and the reversing camera.
I managed to use to use 2 overkill spdt relays to switch video the other day so I can look at the rearview cam when not reversing the car. AV IN does support AHD 720p (no surprise there). Also, I have a nice aftermarket parking sensor setup that outputs to the Canbus to show up on the Daisata screen fooling the unit into thinking I have a parking clearance ecu when I reverse.
@nxdesign I think the current 5.6K is close to perfection.
It was a bit too loud and seemed to clip, but I went into factory settings and set the mic gain to 0 (it was 12 before). Now its still loud enough but also very clear, sounds like talking on the phone.
@nxdesign, 7805/linear vs switched mode/buck - is not about "modern", I suggest using a linear regulator to keep switching regulator noise OUT of the head unit or at least adequately decoupled. Vehicle supply noise you refer to are of low frequency component, while switching is high frequency, so you move the problem either UP or out of the audio spectrum, but it's still there, you just don't hear it. Not good for your head unit though.
I really don't need a lecture in powersupply design, and since you've mentioned that you're buying an aliexpress camera DC regulator, you'll likely be buying a linear regulator - and probably of basic level of electronics.
None of the circuit ideas listed above consider switching noise, nor do they DC block or Noise block / decouple the mic signal to the headunit.
I've had working Toyota factor mic for a couple of years now, creating a similar but properly decoupled and filtered solution a couple of years back.
Finally: decouple the signal to the headunit with a 0.1uF capacitor.
@marchnz I did test a decoupling capacitor on the mic input and it did not improve anything for me. But your consideration is valid and I will add it back when I can. I do decouple off where the power supply gets its 12v and 100nf ceramic is the right capacitor to use. The head unit USB socket 5V was too noisy - any idea why that is and if normal? Will try LM7805 too when I have the chance but right now my setup seems to work fine.
This is what I ordered but my impression is this is just another switching power supply... I'll post pics when I get it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000340322513.html
@marchnz I just did the same thing for the factory mic on my Juke. That one also needs 5V power, if anyone finds this, but only one signal wire.
This time I followed your advice and put a 0.2uF capacitor in series with a 10Kohm resistance because I saw the Juke has mic signal around the 2V area, so it needed DC removal for sure. It works fine.
I think you are both right and wrong about the need of a capacitor.
The CHR factory mic has mic+ and mic- wires which indicate to me there is no DC so no cap needed for DC removal. Unlike the Juke that has only one mic signal back and it's at 2V +/- 0.5V or so.
Used an oscilloscope to confirm and indeed with a cap this went down to AC level.
...Or I might be completely wrong, but both worked for my cars
Edit: Microphone was clipping in fact, changed resistor to 120Kohm, now it's fine. This is for the Juke, with a "Tesla style" unit
@RPG0 could you, please, draw a simple schematic of your wiring? I have done the same wiring on my Nissan and a Pioneer Multimedia source without capacitor and resistance and I get a lot of noise in the mic signal, so I will try adding resistance and capacitor.
A simple em272 did perfectly the job, I set this one at the genuine mic position in a qashqai j11. Mic setting is 5 but I'm going to lower it...
I bought this Vanku head unit on Amazon. It's a double din 7 inch screen.
It's my first Android head unit and I am very, very happy.
I've fitted it into a Honda Civic hatch Mk9 (Euro version) so I needed to buy and install a new fascia plate.
To get steering wheel control working, I had to buy some harnesses and a canbus.
I used the following:
CT27AA71Honda - DIN Antenna Adapter With Phantom Power Supply. *For Aftermarket Radio With DIN Antenna Connector*CTSMARTLEAD
This head unit connection lead can be used with all of the Connects2 steering wheel control interface rangeCTSHO006.2Honda Steering Wheel Control Interface
Steering controls work great after being programmed using the onboard button learning app.
It comes with a microphone, GPS and WiFi antennas and double USB leads. It can also be hooked up to a front and rear camera, but I haven't used these features (I already have rear camera assist on my car, and haven't purchased a DVR camera for the front yet).
The first boot up took under a minute, and the subsequent boot up when turning on the ignition is a couple of seconds.
So far everything feels lightning fast - navigation, app launch, video and music.
I am not getting a great WiFi connection, but I'll check the antenna wire is properly installed before moaning too much.
Bluetooth works great for calls and A2DP. I've also installed an OBD2 adapter and I'm using Torque Pro on the head unit with no issues.
Most apps so far seem to work great - the only app I'm having an issue with is eWeLink (which I use to control all my home automation) and I can't seem to press the log-in button as it's very low down in the screen (app doesn't seem to scale properly for a horizontal screen). I wanted this as I could then open my front gate from the head unit, but I will have to figure out a different way.
The included manual is actually pretty good - the English is by and large pretty understandable.
I will try upload some pictures a bit later - the main purpose of this post is that I wanted to help anyone else researching this particular unit as I could find very little when I was trying to make my purchase decision.