Develop Bugs

Benq E72 USB to 3.5mm audio adaptor

Hi Guys,
I have just got the fantastic little E72 and it is great in almost every way. I want to be able to use my Shure headset with it so I need the adaptor that everyone else wants to find it seems. I have a HTC adaptor but it will not fit into the socket. The socket on my E72 has 5 pin holes and both sides of the interface are curved. The HTC adaptor has one curved side and a straight side so it will not fit in. The E72 does use the usb connection for its headset and audio output but when I did find a Samsung adaptor with both sides curved that did fit into the phone socket it still outputted the music to the external speaker so I am at a loss. There are, therefore, different types of mini usb connectors. Can someone tell me the exact spec of this one fitted to the E72 and possibly where I might get an adaptor that will work??
Much appreciate the help with this.

usb cant be changed to 3.5mm or any type of audio
the reason the htc one dont work is the same reason it dont fit
it have extre connectors which carry analog audio
normal miniusb is a serial digital interface which dont carry analog audio
and usb headsets for pc are really external audiocards which make the serial digital data to analog audio
and that require the ability to usbHost which few pda's support

Many thanks for the explanation. However, my phone came with a stereo headset with mic. I currently use this for listening to music but the quality is not good. Does this not mean then that I should be able to get analogue signal from it??
Please forgive my ignorance; I am learning!!

it all comes down to where you connect your headset
if it's the miniusb port benQ got an extention of miniUSB like htc's extusb
if it's a 2.5mm minijack like older htc devices used you can get a conveter to 3.5mm

The only port on the Benq E72 is the mini USB one. There are no other jacks. The problem is that both sides of the metal housing within this are curved so the HTC one (with one side of the miniUSB adaptor straight) wilkl not fit. I did manage to find and buy an adaptor that was branded Samsung and when I fitted it into the miniUSB socket on the phone it would not work. The music continued to play through the rear speaker even though the adaptor was connected. My supplied headset connects to the phone through the same miniUSB paor but again the metal housing of the miniUSB jack is curved at both sides. I hope this explains better.

as i said then miniUSb should not alow audio at all on the device
and htc use extusb which have more legs then miniusb so if it dont fit
it should not be because of any curves
does your benq device not alow headsets at all ?
if it does how are they connected?

The only connector on the Benq E72 is the miniUSB port. In the attached pic you will see the connector for the wired head set on the left and the miniUSB to standard USB for connection to the PC on the right. I looked inside the silver housing of the connectors on both cables and they seem to have 5 pins along the top (widest) part with the main section being hollow. Now the miniUSB housing on the actual phone does have a plastic inside with 5 pins and , I guess, more connectors along the top of this for the 2 cables. I am to assume that the plastic insert in the phone itsaelf is for the electric charger. There is nothing more that I can give you except to say again that the miniUSB is the only connector on the phone.

if it support headsets connected to the usb connector it must be using some sort
of special usb connector like htc's extusb
i would look at their site if they sell converters

Thanks, as I said the only way to connect the headset is by the miniUSB port so it must support audio. The issue is that the HTC miniUSb headset has a curved side and a straight side so it will not physically fit into the Benq E72 connector. I did get my hands on a philips miniUSB that did fit into the socket on my phone but the music still outputted to the rear speaker of the phone. So, my question is, is there different types of miniUSB wired internals? It would seem so. And would anyone know which would work for the Benq E72 windows mobile poweredsmartphone?

@ 17-apg,
Sorry for this off-topic post. Im planning to buy benq e72 because my o2 xphone2 is too old. Can you please give brief review of the phone, as a user. Is it true that it is laggish? Thank you.

second_east said:
@ 17-apg,
Sorry for this off-topic post. Im planning to buy benq e72 because my o2 xphone2 is too old. Can you please give brief review of the phone, as a user. Is it true that it is laggish? Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No problem ,,
I have the device for over 2 months now and like it a lot. Had a HTC S730 before which was thick and cumbersome and I didnt really need the keyboard. This phone, in contrast, is very light and thin. It runs WinMo 6.0 and I do not find it slower than the HTC in any way. On reflection maybe a little faster even. It is very competively priced as it includes bluetooth, quad band radio and wi-fi. The bluetooth also carries the A2DP functionality. The screen, whilst a little small at 2" is very bright and clear. The keypad has large buttons and is very tactile and positive when texting.There's a 2 meg camera included as well as the microSD slot with a max size of 2GB. You can, however, with software, increase this to the norm of 6GB which I have done. Also the rear speaker (built in) is a reasonable size and therefore can play a decent sound for music if you are travelling and in a hotel room for example. And finally, it has little important assets like the ability to turn on auto redial, a button on the left side which when pressed and held will open the text messaging in a send window. There is also the facility to adjust the screen brightness as well as an internet radio and ringtone editor. All in all, for the price, I definitely recommend this phone. I have bought four more since for friends of mine. They paid of course!!! Now all I need is the miniUSB to 3.5mm audio jack sob sob...

Can you tell if a lanyard can be linked to the device - and where? On all available photos on the net I have not seen any holes for fitting the lanyard to :-(
I am really tempted to get that one as well - escpecially as it is the ONLY (!) smartphone with only a normal keyboard that can use microSDHC cards (after installing updated drivers). They seem to double in size every year - and if the standard is fully supported 6 or 8GB (as reported sucesfully) should not be the limit.

Lanyard
Yes, you can connect a lanyard at the top of the phone. If you can see the top view of the device there is a little hole there. You simply slide off the back cover and fit the lanyard to the designated area on the main body of the deivce (very easily) and then slide the back cover on again.
Now we just need a cooked 6.1 rom for the device!!!

Thanks - I found a set of pictures at a Taiwan Review site (http://www.eprice.com.tw/mobile/talk/?prod_id=2621&tid=3430647&page=1&list_page=1) - this tells it as well
I was only looking for a small device that can read memory cards > 4GB and this is the one now. Otherwise my Tornado in the house of a Robbie still perfectly fits my need. I also tried WM6 and WM6.1 on that - but fell back to the original WM5 there.
Just can't wait to get it in my hands - it was really a bargain on ebay. Search for benq E72 there and you will see a guy in London selling refurbished E72 for just 69 GBP (9 of 21 left). I just could not resist for that price, sigh...
BTW - on topic: did anyone try the Motorola mini-USB connectors - for the Razor and alike?

I dont think so. DO you habve one that you coulkd try when you get the phone? If so, let us know here cause I would really like to use my own ear buds.
BTW I think you will love this phone! It really impresses me. And also Expansys anre selling brand new ones for about £90.00!!

Is there a WM6.1 for this? Thanks.

Benq E72
Not thatI am aware of. I know that another avid fan of the E72 has requested ROM cookers to try to come up with the 6.1 version bit I am not sure if anyone has taken up the challenge.
I hope that it will happen soon ...

I have received mine in the meantime, but the refurbished one was delivered with a non-fitting headset :-(
Well, it fits mechanically, but there is no sound at all. It looks like a cheap replica of a Motorola Stereo Headset - but also a normal Motorola does not work in this socket. So I am out of any possibility to measure the data of the socket to build an adapter. I complained at the dealer - hopefully there still is a working headset available!
Otherwise the device is nice - only English language installed though for menus and T9.
bye
tobbbie

With some help from Taiwan - the USB wiring for the headset is identified, see my blog article at http://tobbbie-benq-e72.blogspot.com/2008/12/hacking-usb-headset-connector.html for more details. The main information is:
....So the final result is then for the numbered pins of the USB connector (1-5):
Must be connected with a resistor less than 200 kOhms to ground (pin 5). The voltage will rise briefly to battery level but then drop back to 0,16 V to stay there. I suspect that accepting calls with the headset button will introduce new functionality here...
Speaker channel (l,r not checked, source indicates right here) - must be connected to a speaker or a pulldown resistor at device-headset connection time.
Speaker channel (l,r not checked, source indicates left here)
Microphone channel (checked to work with Audionotes)
Grounds
So luckily no complicated electronics - get your soldering irons ready!
BTW: have still not received the original headset :-(

DIY FM Antenna With 3.5mm Audio Jack

This is not something new and have been shown many times in YouTube. It is interesting to have for any phone with 3.5mm audio jack that can be easily done within a few minutes. I do not use my headset with my phone so this would be a nice hack to have around to listen with your friends on some local radio without consuming your data plan and phone battery.
Find a headset that you do not need. We only want the part with the 3.5mm audio jack. Just trim it down to about 20cm in length and fold it in half and tie a knot at the end. I tied a lasso knot at the end just so I can adjust the length of the receiver later on though it may not help much in reception quality.
Tested several length from 1 meter all the way to 20 centimetres and found not much difference in reception quality for a fact that you will be using your loudspeaker to listen to the FM radio. The same with whether to loop or not to loop the receiver but looping the receiver gives it a cleaner look while maintaining the same reception frequency.
Putting your phone too close to a human body greatly interferes with the FM signal. On the other hand, placing your phone on a metal table may enhance the FM reception.
Perhaps those who have knowledge in electronics can shed some light to optimize this simple hack further.
Have fun...

I didn't know. Works like a charm !! Thank You

Doesn't work for me. When I plug in the trimmed headset cable with the ear pieces cut off, the FM App keeps asking me to plug in a headset. Works OK when I plug in an untrimmed headset and switch to speaker in FM App menu.
Is there a further trick to getting this to work? Are you using the stock FM App?

I had the same problem myself, and it stems from the fact that smartphones will interrogate any headset you plug in to check if it is suitable. There are basic stereo headphones with three contacts on the jack plug (from the tip they are left, right and ground) and should work on any phone regardless. But there are two variants of headset (i.e. those with a microphone) that use four contacts, the difference being whether they connect the mic on the third or fourth contact.
As of 2016 most manufacturers have standardised on one system (left, right, mic then ground), but there are enough older phones and matching headsets out there that use the alternative pinout scheme. For example my old Sony Xperia used L-R-G-M (the same as say Blackberry), necessitating the use of an adapter for certain accessories. My latest Z5 however, has moved to the L-R-M-G pattern, which means I can no longer use my favourite old Sony headset anymore, not even as plain headphones, the Z5 just refused to talk to them.
That explains why a dumb wire might not work with a smartphone, because it is looking for a signal loop on all four (or three) contacts to try and figure out what's been plugged into it. The solution is to short out the wires to fool the phone into thinking there actually is something on the other end. Simply bare all of the wires at the cut end of the cable, burn off the fine lacquer or cotton that is used as an insulation, then twist the wires together to short them all to the ground. Better still, solder them together and cover with a bit of heat-shrink for a proper finish.

Found some pre-made antennas in ebay, you can try searching for 3.5mm antenna. They look pretty decent. I am also looking for compatible antenna, if any, that is compatible for steven303's new headphone jack.
Edit: did some research and found that the 3.5mm steven303 mentioned is called '3.5mm 4 conductor' or 'TRRS antenna 3.5mm', you can try searching for them in ebay or look for similar ones lying around with wires long enough to be loops around to be used as antenna for new phones with the new type of head jack.
I got two item I think can be suitable for this purpose; search with the following keyword in ebay;
1. 3.5mm 1/8'' Male To Male 4-Pole 3 Ring TRRS AV Audio Extension Cable 1.2M/4Feet
2. 4-Pole 3Ring TRRS 3.5mm (1/8'') Male To Female AV Extension Cable 3FT/1M Black

I have an additional issue. I use my phone's fm radio feature with an old pair of headphones for an antenna and listen via blue tooth headphones when I'm running or just working around the house, etc. My problem is that as the phone moves around in my pocket, the movement causes the phone to think the headphones came unplugged for a second and the radio turns off. When that happens I have to take the phone out and turn the radio back on. This happens often enough that it is a pain in the neck.
A separate but related issue. With some old, non functioning headphone cables the phone doesn't think there is anything plugged into it. I am lucky in that my phone gives me the option to "Play anyway through speaker or bluetooth". So even though it thinks there isn't anything plugged into it, I do, and I have good FM reception.
Here is what I want: I want to know what to do to my old headphone wire so that my phone doesn't think there is anything plugged into it when it is, in fact, plugged in. I hope that makes sense!

(Hardwaremod) Samsung Headset, Changed Speakers

I searched around for some better headphones for my galaxy S3 (GT-I9300), to unleash the full music experience the phone got. As I prefer a more powerful earphone I feel not as comfortable with the sound of the original ones, but I don’t wanted to lose the comfort of the Samsung Headset - Microphone and Remote control.
As you can see here, I changed the original Samsung headset cable to a pair of Sennheiser Headphones. In case you are interested in doing the same here is what I Did.
What i used:
A Pair of Samsung Headset Headphones, in my Case Samsung Galaxy S3 (GT-I9300)
A Pair of Headphones, as shown in the Pictures a Sennheiser CX 300-II
A Solder Station, a bit of soldering wire
A Tool called third Hand, or another little vice
Fine Pliers and a little slot screw driver
A Voltmeter
Just to ensure. I am not responsible for any injuries, damages and defects on the headphones, your mobile, other components or your health. The following hints worked for me and my equipment, yours may be different.
If you aren’t use in Voltmeter testing’s, soldering and fine mechanical works you shouldn’t do this.
First I dismounted the silicone Ear Adapters from all headphones. Then I used the pliers to demount the Samsung headphones. In My case I grabbed the stick where the Ear Adapter was on and ripped it off. I have no further use for them, so I broke its housing.
Inside the Cables are mounted on the speaker. I used the solder station, to liquefy the soldered cable connection from the speaker.
In next step I opened the cable knot and got the cable out of the Samsung housing.
Openig the Sennheiser Headphones:
I used my fingernails to get of the silver ring of the housing, maybe also a guitar plektron will do the same. In my case it worked when I turned it around while pressing my nails in.
Please see Picture 1
With the little slot screw driver I opened up the in key and slot position of the housing.
Please see Picture 2 and 3
I also used the solder station, to liquefy the soldered cable connection from the speaker.
I noted myself on which connection which colour of wire was. On the back side of the Sennheiser Speaker there was a red sign on one of the contacts.
I opened the knot and pulled out the cable. Then I inserted the white Samsung cable in the rubber bumper. I think its important to make sure inserting the right side of the Samsung cable into the right side of the new Earphone. To ensure better gliding I used a little of my wives hand cream on the cable.
When mounted the cable in the headphone, I fastened it again with a knot. I had to be carful, the cable isn’t as strong as it seems.
 
This is the pin configuration I measured on my headphones. As I heard that there is more than one pin configurations in different countries, please ensure what’s yours. So the wire connection I made may differ to the one which is the correct in your case.
Please see Picture 4
Soldering, I made,
Please see Picture 5
Right Headphone:
In my case I attached the red wire of the Samsung headset cable on the Sennheiser headphone at the solder position where the red dot was.
Left Headphone:
I attached the green wire of the Samsung headset cable on the Sennheiser headphone at the solder position where the red dot was.
Please see Picture 6
Reassembling should be no problem then.
Have fun with your modified headphones.
Please see Picture 7

Nice work looks pretty good do they sound alot better?
Sent from my SGH-I747M using xda app-developers app

SoundsLegit said:
Nice work looks pretty good do they sound alot better?
Sent from my SGH-I747M using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the originals are ok but, I'm am a bit of ambitious in music, the original samsungs speaker don't have such powerful bass and not so clear highs. So they don't give a good picture of what a great sound experience the Phone itselve provides.
If you buy a original Headset at Amazon its about 5€, the Senheiser are 35€. There might be the difference from .
Greetings

Awesome
I don't understand though why you used the samsung cord couldn't you have just bought headphones from amazon that had their own cord? Or did you have to have the samsung cord because of the plug to match the microphone? Thanks
Sent from my SGH-I747M using xda app-developers app

Nice job. Thanks for sharing.

Dasaita rear camera not immediatly working

The Dasaita V600 does not switch on the rear view camera until the multimedia is turned on. the front parking camera displays immediately. the rear parking camera motor does not work until the dasaita v600 main screen is turned on What could be the reason? this is very bad. the car is running, the rear camera does not display images for 35 to 40 seconds until multimedia is turned on. the front parking camera gives the image immediately without waiting. There is no such problem for the multimedia of other brands. I thought of it as a software
Help Me
does every user have the same problem? the park camera will not work to start the car and move back and forth immediately. Wait for 40 seconds to turn on and then move on. this is ridiculous.

muratemre444 said:
The Dasaita V600 does not switch on the rear view camera until the multimedia is turned on. the front parking camera displays immediately. the rear parking camera motor does not work until the dasaita v600 main screen is turned on What could be the reason? .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Faced this issue on my Dasaita HA2021-V600 but in my case a little work on canbus wires solved the problem.
Looking at connection diagram on top of your head unit you need to search a wire named "Reverse", in my case the wire the nr. 2 in orange color.
This wire in directly connected to canbus box; cut that wire and connect it from head unit side to +12V from reverse lamp.
After that you will see immediatly camera images when you put your car in reverse gear.
Now my turn for a question: what type of front camera are you using and how you have connected it to head unit and which harness you have used?
Hope my suggestion can help you
P.S.: Make that at your risk, im not responsible for whatever damage on your unit with my "mod".

iRcKenny said:
Faced this issue on my Dasaita HA2021-V600 but in my case a little work on canbus wires solved the problem.
Looking at connection diagram on top of your head unit you need to search a wire named "Reverse", in my case the wire the nr. 2 in orange color.
This wire in directly connected to canbus box; cut that wire and connect it from head unit side to +12V from reverse lamp.
After that you will see immediatly camera images when you put your car in reverse gear.
Now my turn for a question: what type of front camera are you using and how you have connected it to head unit and which harness you have used?
Hope my suggestion can help you
P.S.: Make that at your risk, im not responsible for whatever damage on your unit with my "mod".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello. To attach the front camera to the car, first go to the factory settings. Activate the camera in the last section there. how many secs you want to see. then buy and install any front rear camera.
Place the cable in the D. aux in glass on the device. now the front camera will help you when you leave the back cabin during each parking.

Thanks for your reply, but i dont understand what you said in:
muratemre444 said:
Place the cable in the D. aux in glass on the device.during each parking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you explain better please?
Now your rear camera is working right?

iRcKenny said:
Faced this issue on my Dasaita HA2021-V600 but in my case a little work on canbus wires solved the problem.
Looking at connection diagram on top of your head unit you need to search a wire named "Reverse", in my case the wire the nr. 2 in orange color.
This wire in directly connected to canbus box; cut that wire and connect it from head unit side to +12V from reverse lamp.
After that you will see immediatly camera images when you put your car in reverse gear.
Now my turn for a question: what type of front camera are you using and how you have connected it to head unit and which harness you have used?
Hope my suggestion can help you
P.S.: Make that at your risk, im not responsible for whatever damage on your unit with my "mod".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I am having quite the same probem with my dasaita.
when I switch to reverse I can only see a black screen with the green guides and a sort of yellow alert.
Can you tell me the color of the +12V reverse lamp wire? did you find it behind the unit or you cought that +12v from the reverse bulb behind the car?
thank you
Mirko

MirkoCrb said:
Hi,
I am having quite the same probem with my dasaita.
when I switch to reverse I can only see a black screen with the green guides and a sort of yellow alert.
Can you tell me the color of the +12V reverse lamp wire? did you find it behind the unit or you cought that +12v from the reverse bulb behind the car?
thank you
Mirko
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are facing that issue you simply need connect the yellow RCA cable from you rear camera to the right RCA connector in your head unit, you dont need perform any modification on HU wires; that RCA wire is usually labeled CAM-IN or Rear-IN. Check you connection
Also if you connection are OK the camera is not supplied with +12V and you need use the wire that come from the reverse lamp

iRcKenny said:
If you are facing that issue you simply need connect the yellow RCA cable from you rear camera to the right RCA connector in your head unit, you dont need perform any modification on HU wires; that RCA wire is usually labeled CAM-IN or Rear-IN. Check you connection
Also if you connection are OK the camera is not supplied with +12V and you need use the wire that come from the reverse lamp
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried that already. I think it's a problem with the cables. I contacted the Dasaita Support and suggested to work on 2 pins of the canbus.
thank you

MirkoCrb said:
I tried that already. I think it's a problem with the cables. I contacted the Dasaita Support and suggested to work on 2 pins of the canbus.
thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not a probl with canbus. The only problem that canbus can do is "not switching on reverse gear". When you see the yellow "!" mark on screen mean that unit is not receiving video signal from camera.
Try this for checking the camera: connect the yellow RCA cable from reverse camera to AUX-Video IN harness and use AVIN app if you see images the camera is OK if not you need to check camera connections.
Cable 2 from canbus trigger only the "rear view" if the unit is not switch to reverse input.
What are the canbus setting on you factory setting menu? you car is an E46? what type of main connector are you using 17 or 40 pins?

iRcKenny said:
Not a probl with canbus. The only problem that canbus can do is "not switching on reverse gear". When you see the yellow "!" mark on screen mean that unit is not receiving video signal from camera.
Try this for checking the camera: connect the yellow RCA cable from reverse camera to AUX-Video IN harness and use AVIN app if you see images the camera is OK if not you need to check camera connections.
Cable 2 from canbus trigger only the "rear view" if the unit is not switch to reverse input.
What are the canbus setting on you factory setting menu? you car is an E46? what type of main connector are you using 17 or 40 pins?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok will try.
I don't know my car type..it's a Nissan Qashqai

problem solved
problem solved. the original camera was removed and replaced with another camera. electric power was taken as 12v from parking light. As the original camera was 6v and powered from the unit, the rear camera was not working until multimedia was turned on. everything works fine now

Max 6 wrx rear camera
I am having the same issue on my 2018 wrx limited. When I put it in reverse I get the yellow ! Or see a black screen with the guides. If I go to the AV in , I am able to see the reverse camera image. I have the Dasaita Max 6 (px6). Any assistance would be amazing!

zimbelj said:
I am having the same issue on my 2018 wrx limited. When I put it in reverse I get the yellow ! Or see a black screen with the guides. If I go to the AV in , I am able to see the reverse camera image. I have the Dasaita Max 6 (px6). Any assistance would be amazing!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try plugging the reverse camera into the reverse camera input?

marchnz said:
Try plugging the reverse camera into the reverse camera input?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried that and tried every combination that I could think of with the Various RCA cables - just the yellows, all the rca connections, the different yellows. I think it may in an issue with whatever wire from the car that triggers the camera when it is put in to reverse.... I read somewhere that the harness provided from Dasaita may have an empty pin hole where that wire should be. I am not savvy enough to know. Thanks for taking time to try and assist. Any other tips to try? could this be a voltage issue?

muratemre444 said:
Hello. To attach the front camera to the car, first go to the factory settings. Activate the camera in the last section there. how many secs you want to see. then buy and install any front rear camera.
Place the cable in the D. aux in glass on the device. now the front camera will help you when you leave the back cabin during each parking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont understand this. I also have android PX3, Back camera works as I put in reverse. Connected front camera tu AVIN, settings set to "enable front camera for 15sec after reverse". But I only see black screen.
When Manually open AVIN I see front camera, how do I enable this?
Thanks

Hello,
ich had also problems with the rear cam and that's what solved the problem in my case!
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...s-general/wired-rear-cam-issue-fixed-t3964902
Best regards

Hi there everybody,
I recently noticed my PX6 unit doesn't see any of the front / rear cameras. With all wires connected the f-cam app shows the orange triangle (no signal) for both front and back cameras. The same happens if I give a 12v signal to the reverse (pink) wire.
I never got to install the backup camera in my car but I did bench tests with a power source and had the cameras working when I first got the unit. Now, a few months later, the cameras simply don't work
I tested with 2 different cameras and also with a DVD player and none worked.
I even opened the unit and checked the motherboard to see if there is a fried circuit or IC...and saw nothing. The video inputs lead to a IC labeled "FMS6502" and the signal gets to it through a 75ohm resistor and a capacitor which both look okay.
What can it be?
Please give me your opinions on this as it drives me crazy !
Thank you!

I would guess your headunit is not providing the 12 volts to both cameras
Hi , I remember your Fcam app requires you to connect your front view camera to your f cam video input and provides thru another lead a 12 volt output in which you can conect the power for both your front and rear camera. If both cameras dont work most possible the radio is not providing the 12 volt output .
cflaviu said:
Hi there everybody,
I recently noticed my PX6 unit doesn't see any of the front / rear cameras. With all wires connected the f-cam app shows the orange triangle (no signal) for both front and back cameras. The same happens if I give a 12v signal to the reverse (pink) wire.
I never got to install the backup camera in my car but I did bench tests with a power source and had the cameras working when I first got the unit. Now, a few months later, the cameras simply don't work
I tested with 2 different cameras and also with a DVD player and none worked.
I even opened the unit and checked the motherboard to see if there is a fried circuit or IC...and saw nothing. The video inputs lead to a IC labeled "FMS6502" and the signal gets to it through a 75ohm resistor and a capacitor which both look okay.
What can it be?
Please give me your opinions on this as it drives me crazy !
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Megv6265 said:
Hi , I remember your Fcam app requires you to connect your front view camera to your f cam video input and provides thru another lead a 12 volt output in which you can conect the power for both your front and rear camera. If both cameras dont work most possible the radio is not providing the 12 volt output .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What. You've just said, connect the front and rear camera and the +12v feed. The headunit doesn't provide a 12v output for the cameras.
Not surprised at the guess, these topics generally are guessing games.
I'd suggest finding a skilled car audio tech or auto electrician. That's not meant to be an oxymoron, seriously

Sygav reverse camera issues

Hello
Today I installed my back up camera to my PX5 6.0 Android unit with the Rockford fosgate system. The Android unit says it's MTCE_HA_V2.85_1 and I wired the wires to my reverse light power and ground and plugged in the RCA cables but I didn't do anything with the wires attached to the RCAs. When I put my car in reverse the reverse mechanism triggers but instead of the video from the camera it's just a black screen and the parking lines. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Check the power supply of the back up camera and the yellow RCA connector. Connect the RCA connector that labeled CAM VIN but not AUX VIN.