Hi,
Do you have informations about pinout of eMMC chip on stick basic edition ?
Do you know if it can be rooted with hardware using rom for v2 or v1 ?
Thanks a lot !
Regards
https://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/general/hardware-root-via-emmc-chip-t2885344
https://www.exploitee.rs/index.php/Amazon_Fire_TV_Stick
Thanks you for the links... but the links above are for TV stick v1 not for TV stick basic edition.
Anyway, I will post there.
I'm also looking for the eMMC pinout on the basic. From what I've read, it's the same as the FireTV Stick 2nd Gen, but even that I can't find pinouts for.
Here are some board pics for the Basic.
UPDATE: pic updated with pinouts as I find them.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
UPDATE: It seems as though the difference between the two chips may be more important than I had previously thought. The PD/ZB is the package code, and comparing the MT29TZZZ8D5JKEZB-107 W.95Q to the MT29TZZZ8D5JKETS-107 W.95Q it would appear as though the BGA is completely different (168 pin vs 221, layout also being completely different). I may just have to donate this FireTV basic to the cause and lift it. If i'm lucky my BGA rework skills are still half as good as the Xbox 360 days.
Did a bit of digging, and it seems the markings on the eMMC do not simply reflect any internal models of the chip (as evident by a simple google search), but luckily Micron has their own decoder you can use.
The chip beside the ARM CPU appears to be an eMMC/RAM combo unit. Searching their site I cannot locate anything for MT29TZZZ8D5JKEPD-107 W.95T specifically, but there are some that are very close, like the MT29TZZZ8D5JKEZB-107 W.95Q. The difference between the chips is one has 8GM RAM the other (which I can't find) is the FireTV Basic which has 1GB ram.
Regardless, it looks like we're gonna have to pull the chip to determine where the required BGA pins can be accessed externally as there doesn't appear to be anything close to the eMMC. My guess is the underside of the board will be where most the pins will be accessed (hopefully).
Data sheet can be found here
And below is a cheat sheet:
My SMD rework station came in (needed a new iron and was sick of heatgunning BGAs) so I put it to use right away and lifted the eMMC/RAM BGA.
Lo and behold, my guesstimate appears to be correct.
It would appear as though the MT29TZZZ8D5JKEPD-107 W.95T layout matches that of the board.
I unfortunately lost my bottle of rubbing alcohol so couldn't clean up the board for better pictures so this will have to do for now. Hopefully I'll have some time to trace some of the required pins in the near future once I get some more rubbing alcohol. CMD/DAT0/DAT5 can be visibly traced to outside the chip, the others will require manually mapping across the PCB for alternate locations. But for now, this is looking promising.
It's also worth noting (I picked up another FireTV in case I can't reball this one) that the one I just lifted the BGA from was a Samsung eMMC and not a Micron like my first FireTV Basic. Of course though, the datasheet is not available so I will work from the pinout in the MT29TZZZ8D5JKEPD-107 W.95T as planned.
Thanks you it's really a great work !
Well guys, I'm trying to interface with the eMMC by dead bug (pulled BGA, wired it to the exploiteers low voltage adapter but I'm not having any luck. Can't seem to find any issues with the wiring, but she just won't recognize in the computer. Anyone got some hints/ideas?
iLLNiSS do you have the pinouts? I have the same device and would be willing to try.
goalguy10 said:
iLLNiSS do you have the pinouts? I have the same device and would be willing to try.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Negative. I took a break after the dead bug method came up empty handed for me. I suppose I can trace out the points still and someone else can try without lifting the BGA but I wouldn't make any guarantees.
Keep an eye out here in the near future. If I get around to it I'll have them posted here right after, I'm just busy with other projects and work.
Hey guys,
I opened also my fire TV stick (2nd gen) that shoud be the same like the fire tv stick basic and found the same layout of the board as shown in the picture of iLLNiSS.
The emmc on my fire tv stick is made by SK HYNIX with the part number "H9TQ64A8GTACUR-KUM".
I didn´t find the data sheet for this emmc. However, I found the data sheet for "H9TQ17ABJTMCUR" that has the same dimension but 16gb storage. In this data sheet there you can see that the pinout is the same as found by iLLNiSS. So we are heading the right direction.
iLLNiSS said:
Negative. I took a break after the dead bug method came up empty handed for me. I suppose I can trace out the points still and someone else can try without lifting the BGA but I wouldn't make any guarantees.
Keep an eye out here in the near future. If I get around to it I'll have them posted here right after, I'm just busy with other projects and work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You get a chance to trace the points? I have one with the chip still on it I would be willing to try.
EMMC Connections 100 Images
Here is a link for buying those emmc connections
H t t p
electronics-tricks.blogspot.com/2018/07/emmc-connection-pictures.html?m=1
Well, I'm back!
Sorry for the delay, I mostly lost interest due to taking on a new position at my company.
So, good news! I've successfully communicated with the eMMC. I was having the same issues as I mentioned previously, and was about to give up when I traced some voltages while the MMC was plugged into the reader and it came alive. Not sure why, but I'm not complaining. I can confirm that the cheatsheet pinout I previously posted is correct.
Currently setting up a linux distro again so I can dump the contents. Hopefully all goes well!
If anyone who knows what they're doing feel free to request the dumps. Maybe it could help with a non hardware root.
UPDATE: So it wasn't dumping the partitions fully (kept failing randomly) and now it's no longer reading like it was before. I suspect there is too much interference so I may try shortening my wires (they are only like 6" long). So for now, all I can say is the pinouts are accurate.
UPDATE2: CLK pad ripped up as is tradition! Looks like I'll have to look at tracing again. Sorry folks!
Please refer to this post for pinouts. I will be adding them as I find them. https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=74633569&postcount=4
since nobody helped on emmc pinout i had to do it myself
http://s6.picofile.com/file/8375750792/firestick_basic_emmc_pinout.jpg
oktay50000 said:
since nobody helped on emmc pinout i had to do it myself
http://s6.picofile.com/file/8375750792/firestick_basic_emmc_pinout.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tested this with an emmc adapter?
I suppose you have to desolder the clk resistor, in order to stop the SOC from booting?
Sus_i said:
Have you tested this with an emmc adapter?
I suppose you have to desolder the clk resistor, in order to stop the SOC from booting?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you have to pull the emmc to use in the adaptor , if your micros soldering skill is good then you can do it without removing the resistor by using thin wires if not ,remove it program the emmc and then solder the resistor back ,its better than removing the ic itself lol
oktay50000 said:
you have to pull the emmc to use in the adaptor , if your micros soldering skill is good then you can do it without removing the resistor by using thin wires if not ,remove it program the emmc and then solder the resistor back ,its better than removing the ic itself lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thank you.
Yeah, I have the low voltage emmc adapter from exploitee.rs, had it connected to the first generation stick and the first generation firetv.
Yes, it's far better that removing the emmc itself :laugh: I've tried a reflow on a playstation3 years ago, it's a real mess to solder chips back with hotair
Sus_i said:
Ok, thank you.
Yeah, I have the low voltage emmc adapter from exploitee.rs, had it connected to the first generation stick and the first generation firetv.
Yes, it's far better that removing the emmc itself :laugh: I've tried a reflow on a playstation3 years ago, it's a real mess to solder chips back with hotair
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey mate if you have the device can you do me a favor?
i need resistor values for cmd clk and data
oktay50000 said:
i need resistor values for cmd clk and data
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
CLK = 0,0 ohms
DAT = 10,0k ohms
CMD = 10,0k ohms
Related
Here we go:
When I recharged my HTC in my car, I got in a little accident and the HTC flew around the car a little bit.
Long story short; the USB/Charge port broke and I got it fixed by a friend.
Took him a few days because it was totally messed up, but hey, I could recharge it.
He said he couldn't fix the USB connection, but no problem: I still had bluetooth.
However, yesterday I got really stupid...
I tried to flash the rom using my bluetooth connection.
All went fine, but ofcourse, when rebooting it got stuck.
Tried the soft reset, tried the hard reset, but no luck.
Of course I also tried all available tools (mtty) but damn, stupid me again, that won't work since the USB connection won't work; my PC doesn't even detect that there is a device connected.
So here's my question:
Is there a way to get the HTC out of bootloader menu without the use of the USB port?
As I am afraid there isn't a way, does anyone have a layout/schematic of the HTC Universal hardware layout so I can try to fix the USB connection myself?
The friend that fixed it last time moved, so I'll have to try it myself .
here is a link to the HTC Universal service manual, maybe you can find some help there.
leffetripel said:
here is a link to the HTC Universal service manual, maybe you can find some help there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Couldn't find the USB-connector anywhere in the service manual...
Yeah okay, it showed the port itself, but not where it's connected on the motherboard.
Anyone really technical who can point it out?
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
martinbl said:
Couldn't find the USB-connector anywhere in the service manual...
Yeah okay, it showed the port itself, but not where it's connected on the motherboard.
Anyone really technical who can point it out?
http://xs227.xs.to/xs227/08201/usb309.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No one? :'(
i have a working motherboard, that i can sell. If you cant fix the usb connector. pm me if interested
So here's my question:
Is there a way to get the HTC out of bootloader menu without the use of the USB port?
As I am afraid there isn't a way, does anyone have a layout/schematic of the HTC Universal hardware layout so I can try to fix the USB connection myself?
The friend that fixed it last time moved, so I'll have to try it myself .[/quote]
There is one way to flash it from the SD card, look in the forum or in WIKI for more information. Here you can find picture ( as well broken mini USB) http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=381560
Bulldog said:
There is one way to flash it from the SD card, look in the forum or in WIKI for more information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't find it anywhere?
Only SD flashing for other models... Or am I just ain't looking right?
martinbl said:
I can't find it anywhere?
Only SD flashing for other models... Or am I just ain't looking right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This one may can help you
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=393370
My USB port broken also.
My USB port pulled out also. I did find my connector, even though I purchased a replacement USB off eBay. My eyes are not good enough to resolder, and am not sure what is on the other side of board that may be effected should I try. I just downloaded the PDF file ya'all listed, so now I will check it out in depth. I would prefer having a professional fix this, but here in Memphis Tn USA I have had better luck finding polar bears. I recently got this unit so I know nothing! I do realize that it probably needs to be upgraded from WM5 to WM6. I have also noticed that replacement mother boards are available also on eBay. I just purchased an used JasJar with good mother board but broken screen thinking about using it for parts to fix mine.
Hugh (toolmanfedex)
Hey
My USB port broke off, and I lost it... I dropped the phone out of my motorcycle tankbag (since it opens on the "bottom" end) the impact was severe enough that the case fell appart and speakers popped out, all the wires intact, I put it back together but the port is lost... it still works of course but my battery ran out, can't charge it without the usb port.
Anyway, I see it's delicate but not that delicate, i want to solder a new one on myself what I have to do is find one and here is my question:
Which type/sort of ports work, do I need an htc-universal specific one or is it standard and just any of the correct size where contacts overlap, is good enough?
If the answer is standard I'll get'em at the nearest electronic store, if not, where to get'em? used off ebay or some useful links any of you may have handy?
Thanks in advance,
ciao
JasJar Replacement USB Connector
This is where I got a replacement USB port for my JasJar: eBay
http://stores.ebay.com/Wincom-International
HTC Wizard IMATE JASJAR 838 D900 charge port connector
eBay Item number: 310010162549
Price: US $4.99 Shipping to USA: $5.99
Hugh
The connector you want is a "USB-to-go" or a "USB Mini-AB" SMT Scoket any good electronics component retailer should have them. The big question is have you damaged the pads on the motherboard?
oi, thanks mates, I checked that retailer out, found a local retailer with these components, if it's a standard one, it should work, I'll try to see if it works before soldering (using some duct tape or something I guess).
I'm pretty sure I haven't damaged the pads on the motherboard, the thing just "gently" broke off (as gentle as you can imagine a break can be). How would damage look like? They look intact really... and it's a big enough patch that I feel confident soldering on.
I ordered one of these connectors and should be here tomorrow. Thanks again for info.
---
well apparently not... only A or B in stock, but not the -AB in all the local retailers, guess I'll grab it from the ebay one Thanks for that info too again.
Now then, several months later, my usb socket broke off again.
I really lost trust in my universal, it feels just... touchy, like it's a human baby, that's how I act when I carry it around and don't like it. Since I don't want my mobile device to be such a "burden" really I'm thinking about replacing it.
I'm not an elec-technician, in fact I've soldered a few things in my life, but this one, I somehow did, I didn't have fine enough tools so some of the contacts got spilled and interconnected and I peeled off the links with a boxcutter knife later. It was a few-hour endeavour. Yeah crude and barbaric but in the end, I managed that without damaging the motherboard. It worked, active syncinc, everything, but I felt it wasn't really stable. Since I don't have an external battery charger, my uni is sadly out of order now.
I have a question:
How to solder this thing back on properly?
And when done so, how sturdy is it? Sturdy enough?
Thanks, regards
The USB connector is a pain to solder as you need a big tip to solder to the big pads that hold it in place and a small tip to solder the actual USB data pins. If it is done correctly it can out last the Uni. I can repair it for you if you like, it wont be the first and I'm sure it wont be the last. PM me if you are intrested.
DONT try to resoldere it urself, u need skill and especially a proper LOW WATT soldering tool!! its also easy tofuck it up, permanently.
i'm not sure if u can find electronic guys willing to do this ( cause its a small job for them), but ur best bet would be to visit the local guy who does PS2/XBOX/GAMECUBE modchip iinstalls...he'll solder ur usb port in 2 minutes.
Just to let you know I've been a electroinc engineer for 15+ years this sort of thing is my bread and butter. If you want to see the standard I work too check out the 128Mb Upgrade page thats my work and the kind of equipment I have.
But I agree with Starik do try it yourself unless your are skilled at soldering and have the right tools.
Hello!
I've wanted to add a method for reading kernel output for the last few weeks. And, when they found the serial output pads on the mother board in this thread, I KNEW IT WAS TIME!
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1471813
So, I ordered all of the goods needed and got ready to get to work:
SparkFun FT232R for translating serial output to USB.
Soldering Station
Set of small electronics screwdriver set
I wouldn't recommend that everyone jump in and do this:
- In general you risk damaging your Kindle Fire
- Taking the back cover off incorrectly can break off the small tabs that hold it into place, making it difficult to keep on. (I did break 1 tab during this procedure -- but the cover still fits nicely)
- Soldering is not a joke. You need to go do the research and practice. I took out a motherboard from an old laptop and did 10+ tests where I took a wire and soldered it to a pad on the board. Even then... things didn't go entirely smoothly (read below). YouTube also has a GREAT series on how to solder (you'll have to get over the fact that it's the 80's):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIT4ra6Mo0s
Anyway so here we are with the pics:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
This is the equipment I used.
Here I have the back cover off of the Kindle. I recommend using a plastic flat tool to pry the rubberized portion up and away from the front. That way you avoid breaking too many of the small tabs.
Motherboard is out! Note that the pictures make this look like it's fairly good size. It's not.
Here's a better shot right before I moved the Motherboard to start soldering on the wires to the 4 pads on the right. They are so small that at this point I nearly stopped and put the entire thing back together. The tests I did on the other motherboard: the pads were slightly larger and had more solder on them.
Here's a shot of the Motherboard with the new wires attached. I didn't realize at the time that I only needed GND and TX0 attached. I did all 4. And originally I thought I'd have enough solder to attached the wires just by tinning the tip and wires. Such was not the case. I had to pin the wires down with a clamp so I could use 2 hands and add just enough solder to hold the wires to the pads.
And here's the Motherboard back in the Kindle. I flattened one of the speaker screens and ran the wires out through the top so they could be connected to the SparkFun.
I had a real scare while re-attaching everything. The battery connector didn't go in perfectly straight and I bent a pin. Had to pull the battery out and use a very thin screwdriver attachment to go into the connector and straighten it out.
This was around 2:30am. But that didn't stop me from booting it up and checking the output!
This pastebin shows the bootloader and then the kernel output via the new UART connection:
http://pastebin.com/6tEB3PBr
NEXT STEPS?
I've been working with the Nook Tablet guys as we've been hammering on the kernel backport modules. They also have a guy who soldered a UART connection and is working on a 3.0.8 kernel. Amazingly the Nook Tablet is nearly identical to the Kindle Fire. So much so that they have the same TI tagged kernel as we do (L27.13.1-Beta).
I will probably grab the work-in-progress kernel that they've been developing and load up the 3.0 kernel config I already have out on GitHub.
And we'll see where stuff is going wrong.
Donated to you. Thanks for your hard work.
Felnarion said:
Donated to you. Thanks for your hard work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
THANKS!
I'm going to start a new thread where I can keep track of the progress on the new ICS kernel. So everyone can sort of follow along. It won't happen over night that's for sure.
Felnarion said:
Donated to you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you donate to me too? Please?
fiddlefaddle said:
Can you donate to me too? Please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow didn't realize that we requested donations around here. Thought that's exactly what they are DONATIONS?
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using Tapatalk
rawdaddymagraden said:
Wow didn't realize that we requested donations around here. Thought that's exactly what they are DONATIONS?
Sent from my Amazon Kindle Fire using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I realize that fiddlefaddle was merely making a joke. But I would like to add ...
/steps up on the soapbox
While I appreciate and enjoy receiving donations (who wouldn't?), I don't EVER request donations and you should never feel obligated in any way to donate. I do this because I want to.
/end soapbox
Just thought I would toss that out there.
Hashcode said:
I realize that fiddlefaddle was merely making a joke. But I would like to add ...
/steps up on the soapbox
While I appreciate and enjoy receiving donations (who wouldn't?), I don't EVER request donations and you should never feel obligated in any way to donate. I do this because I want to.
/end soapbox
Just thought I would toss that out there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I did mean it as a joke....
Felnarion said:
Donated to you. Thanks for your hard work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you? I also feel like doing the same.
The man deserves some beers for having the balls to do it!
AdrienC said:
Where did you? I also feel like doing the same.
The man deserves some beers for having the balls to do it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Click the donate button under his name on the left.
AdrienC said:
Where did you? I also feel like doing the same.
The man deserves some beers for having the balls to do it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed!!! Your a BEAST Hash!! Thanks again for all your hard work! !!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using XDA App
I gotta agree with everyone else. Thanks for the hard work. When I order a new digitizer and replace it I *might* do this if I can polish my soldering skills up(If it'll help, of course. Just let me know). I'll watch the video series you linked to.
If anyone wants a cheap testing device there's a seller on eBay who's been selling Fires with cracked digitizers(touch still works on most) and they've been going for between $45-$70. (I got mine for $60) The badly cracked ones go for cheaper obviously.
They only have one up right now, but they've had them up pretty consistently so i'd keep an eye on them if you want one.
http://myworld.ebay.com/cnn1187_asis/ (someone let me know if I should take the link down for some reason)
Wow. Impressive.. Its just a matter of time now till we will get hw working on the kindle-fire..
Massive respect @HashCode
Loved looking thru the pastebin. Saw usb hid support is this working? I know its only days away now, no pressure, its only the entire community holding their breath lol
I smell fresh cooked hardware acceleration coming to ICS on the kindle-fire soon.
fiddlefaddle said:
Can you donate to me too? Please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ya, not sure how he took your comment seriously... especially with the at the end.
Thank you very much for all your work Hashcode!
I've been working with the Nook Tablet guys as we've been hammering on the kernel backport modules. They also have a guy who soldered a UART connection and is working on a 3.0.8 kernel. Amazingly the Nook Tablet is nearly identical to the Kindle Fire. So much so that they have the same TI tagged kernel as we do (L27.13.1-Beta).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
are they use the same wifi+bluetooth chip?
get bluebooth work is not a dream, right?
ygvuhb said:
are they use the same wifi+bluetooth chip?
get bluebooth work is not a dream, right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah but does the Kindle Fire have a bluetooth antenna ?
NRGZ28 said:
Yeah but does the Kindle Fire have a bluetooth antenna ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wifi and Bluetooth share an antenna.
Sent from my HTC Sensation XE with Beats Audio using XDA
In the ifixit teardown, the chip used in the Jorjin wireless module is shown to be a TI WL1270B, which does not support Bluetooth.
Sent from my Kindle Fire (CM7) using xda premium
_ante_ said:
In the ifixit teardown, the chip used in the Jorjin wireless module is shown to be a TI WL1270B, which does not support Bluetooth.
Sent from my Kindle Fire (CM7) using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not seeing this, I guess. In the ifixit article, they list: Jorjin WG7310 WLAN/BT/FM Combo Module.
Which, if you follow that to Jorjin's website, http://www.jorjin.com/Product_SiPmodule_WG7310.htm
You get:
-IEEE 802.11b/g/n, BT1.1, 1.2, 2.0+EDR, 2.1+EDR
-Powered by TI WL1271 (WLAN MAC), WL1271FE(PA+Switch+Balun)
If you're getting this phone or thinking about it and have doubts because of no sd slot this is the answer. Support these guys and get your micro sd card back!
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/andyfei/mini-microsd-reader-for-android-smartphones-and-ta
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
IMO, this is definitely cool but more novelty than useful. I haven't rooted my GNote 10.1 yet but I have noticed that I cannot move my apps to the SD card. Since both this and my One will be on Jelly Bean, I suspect to encounter the same roadblock. Maybe I'm a minimalist and don't really recognize it, but I don't like the idea of having to add that to my keyring.
Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk 2
I see its usefulness in loading up an SD card with a couple movies or tv shows - watching them and then replacing them with others. Keeps the content off the device and can load up to 64gb of content without touching the phones storage. pretty neat!
I like it because I have over half of my 64gb card filled with music and even though I do have it uploaded to Google music I use neutron to play it and right now there's no way to stream it to neutron
Sent from my EVO using xda premium
There was already thread on this in general section. Few of us have contributed so should get it in July.
Just contributed. I like to do my TiBu backups to SDcard among other things.
DiggerG said:
Just contributed. I like to do my TiBu backups to SDcard among other things.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cool, reached the second stretch goal.
OK10 said:
cool, it is useful. because i have the same question
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure.
I hope one of the big boys electronic companies don't steal his ideas. I'm sure they can have a similar product out in two seconds flat.
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
What similar product?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda app-developers app
Just backed $12 is not a bad price including delivery
fazzxx said:
Just backed $12 is not a bad price including delivery
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here just backed them up since I bought my HTC One 2 days ago. With 32GB the phone should have enough for everything and then when I want to watch some videos I can just plug in my Microsdcard 32GB from my old Captivate Glide and have access to all my Videos. I must say I really like the idea.
I really don't like it. It looks atrocious and leaves itself open to be broken very easily. Why can't they just make a smaller connection and have a cable that wrap around to the back of the device which then connects to what we already have available in flash drives?
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
This is a really rough sketch, but what you have here is the smallest connection possible (Very little sticks out) and a flat cable then wraps around to the other side of the device to the the actual flash memory module or whatever. It could be anything like a card reader or even what is found on the inside of a flash drive. (Which is already really small) The housing containing this could have an adhesive side so it can stick to the device. There are adhesives that basically don't lose their stickiness so you can remove it when you're done and reattach it when you want to.
tkoreaper said:
I really don't like it. It looks atrocious and leaves itself open to be broken very easily. Why can't they just make a smaller connection and have a cable that wrap around to the back of the device which then connects to what we already have available in flash drives?
This is a really rough sketch, but what you have here is the smallest connection possible (Very little sticks out) and a flat cable then wraps around to the other side of the device to the the actual flash memory module or whatever. It could be anything like a card reader or even what is found on the inside of a flash drive. (Which is already really small) The housing containing this could have an adhesive side so it can stick to the device. There are adhesives that basically don't lose their stickiness so you can remove it when you're done and reattach it when you want to.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You do realize you can buy the device then simply use a cable extension to place it on the rear. If the cable does not exist you can simply make an extension yourself or simply use adapters to get the required connections needed.
very nice idea
tkoreaper said:
I really don't like it. It looks atrocious and leaves itself open to be broken very easily. Why can't they just make a smaller connection and have a cable that wrap around to the back of the device which then connects to what we already have available in flash drives?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Even if that were physically possible, the phone will power the OTG card reader for as long as it's plugged in. Not only would your phone never go into deep sleep, it would keep the 5V boost converter turned on indefinitely. The battery life on that setup would suck.
The product being Kickstarted seems to be meant for swapping files into/out of onboard flash or being actively used (watching movies, torrenting from public wifi, etc)
pokey9000 said:
Even if that were physically possible, the phone will power the OTG card reader for as long as it's plugged in. Not only would your phone never go into deep sleep, it would keep the 5V boost converter turned on indefinitely. The battery life on that setup would suck.
The product being Kickstarted seems to be meant for swapping files into/out of onboard flash or being actively used (watching movies, torrenting from public wifi, etc)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know where I went wrong, but you're confused about my idea. It is essentially the SAME THING as the kickstarter device... Only difference is the way it looks. Instead of plugging in a device which then hangs directly out of the port you have something that sticks out only a faction of the other device which then sticks on the backside of the device... It is out of your way and less likely to get damaged.
tkoreaper said:
I don't know where I went wrong, but you're confused about my idea. It is essentially the SAME THING as the kickstarter device... Only difference is the way it looks. Instead of plugging in a device which then hangs directly out of the port you have something that sticks out only a faction of the other device which then sticks on the backside of the device... It is out of your way and less likely to get damaged.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course it's just like the Kickstarter device. You wouldn't want to leave it plugged in all the time either.
pokey9000 said:
Of course it's just like the Kickstarter device. You wouldn't want to leave it plugged in all the time either.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm aware, but I'm confused why it was even mentioned. Nothing I said insinuated that that device was going to be there semi-permanently. The only thing the market offers now is either a dongle or a device like this kickstarter one. The KS device is moving in the right direction, but having a device protrude out of a fragile connection bothers me. My idea helps to fix this issue.
tkoreaper said:
I'm aware, but I'm confused why it was even mentioned. Nothing I said insinuated that that device was going to be there semi-permanently. The only thing the market offers now is either a dongle or a device like this kickstarter one. The KS device is moving in the right direction, but having a device protrude out of a fragile connection bothers me. My idea helps to fix this issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then you should go make one and create a project on Kickstarter!
Personally, I like the accessibility of this device. It works much like a current USB flash drive. Plug in to xfer files and then remove.
~ Sent from the HTC One ~
I replaced my USB PCB IO (due to physical damage) with this : ME571KL SUB_BD./AS(WUS). I can't provide the URL because this is my first time posting, but a quick google should lead you to a link from asusparts.eu
With this new PCB, everything except for the touchscreen is operational. I know the fault is not with the digitizer since if I connect my damaged old USB PCB IO, the touchscreen works. The website mentions thus : " Please note that this part may have to be calibrated to work with your unit. To do this you will have to send your tablet to an Asus service center for calibration"
However, Asus has been very cooperative so far and I was wondering whether you would be able to provide a solution to this issue.
Thank you !
Going to replace the USB board and worried by this.
My Nexus 7 2013 has recently stopped to charge...
Tried to tighten the USB socket but that didn't help. I suppose the USB socket is dead; as I don't know how to solder, I think I'm going to have to replace the whole sub-board... but I came upon the same warning that the board needs to be calibrated and saw this thread, so I was wondering if someone knew if there's any issue with replacing it?
After looking at it closer, I found out one of the pins is broken and gone... The 4 other pins are all okay at the moment.
Off-topic, but does someone have an idea to bridge the gap between the USB socket and the board?
Soldering?
Would applying some solder to all the pins help?
leoetlino said:
Would applying some solder to all the pins help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You didn't mention where the socket pin broke off. If it's between the back pin and the board itself, then it's just a matter of dropping some solder to bridge what's left on the pin itself and the pad, or copper trace, on the board. There's no secret: you need to reestablish continuity between those two points. But since it's so tiny, you need to check for continuity with a volt meter.
How the pin broke though, is hard to understand. That's the area nothing in the operation of the tab ever touches. There are no moving parts. How did it happen?
It seems to be between the back of the connector and the board:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
A few months ago, I started having charging issues. It would charge intermittently, and after some weeks the whole port stopped working...
That's why I opened it, and to no surprise, I could see the USB connector had something wrong: as you can see, the whole GND pin has got off the board. I presume it wasn't soldered properly.
If I use a needle to manually connect the connector and the "pad", then it works fine: charging, USB data, HDMI SlimPort...
In this case, would applying some solder help?
leoetlino said:
A few months ago, I started having charging issues. It would charge intermittently, and after some weeks the whole port stopped working...
That's why I opened it, and to no surprise, I could see the USB connector had something wrong: as you can see, the whole GND pin has got off the board. I presume it wasn't soldered properly.
If I use a needle to manually connect the connector and the "pad", then it works fine: charging, USB data, HDMI SlimPort...
In this case, would applying some solder help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can drop some solder to link pin 1 of the usb socket to trace "1" on the pad, it should work. But make sure it doesn't short with pin 2. If it's too difficult, try a fine copper strand. That pin is not GND, it's 5v.
Thanks for your reply. I stand corrected.
Just a question, would there be issues if the solder also touches the other pins? Would that create a short circuit?
Hopefully I won't need to solder anything but simply apply some solder...
leoetlino said:
Thanks for your reply. I stand corrected.
Just a question, would there be issues if the solder also touches the other pins? Would that create a short circuit?
Hopefully I won't need to solder anything but simply apply some solder...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't want anything shorted, as it might fry the components. That happens, and it's the end of it. Use some gel flux, and a soldering that's no bigger than 0.8mm. At most a 1.0 mm tip. Don't try your luck with a regular 25W iron, you will fail, and end up destroying the socket. I learned it the hard way so you don't have to..
Why is this not compatible ? they do not say anything about this issue when this item is purchased.
why is this not a 'plug and play' type of replacement part ?
I have been repairing computers for 16 years and all parts that I have purchased and replaced do not need to be returned to the manufacturer for 'Calibration'. updated drivers are readily available for new parts from other vendors, So....
What does this say about Asus ?
Why do they sell replacement parts that they know will not work without their 'special attention/calibration/tool ?
I have purchased this part with the expectation that it will/should work without all this palaver.
I have asked them (ASUS) to take this matter further with their manufacturing unit and for them to 'fix' this issue and supply the already growing market for these parts with the required 'fix' ASAP.....but I'm not holding my breath.
I think this is a disgusting situation for users/pc repairers to be put into knowing that it is easier to buy a new unit than to repair the old one.
Disgruntled pc repairer
K.P.
All,
I have two P5210 - 10.1 tablets.
Charging the 1st one with a certain charger - very fast, no issues
Charging the 2nd one with the same charger - very slow (but it charges)
Please note that I did replace the internal USB-charge-cable recently of the 2nd device because before that the tablet
did not charge at all.
Because of this I did not use the device for many months so the battery was really really empty.
How slow does the 2nd tablet charge? Well, using the charger mentioned above the battery went from 0% to 17%
in about 3-4 hours ... then I charged it overnight (7 hours or so) and it was around 28%.
Of course I do suspect the new USB-charge-cable being the issue but how does that impact this?
I mean: it charges, or it does not; If it charges then it must be connected correctly (it's hard to do it wrong).
Any ideas??
Thanks!
This tool will help you figure out, these question like this no one can have particular answer as lacking information
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...usb+power+current+and+voltage+tester&_sacat=0
You have 2 identical tablets. why don't swap the battery to see any difference ?
Use the USB tester, current should be 1.5-1.7Amps, voltage should be 5.1--5.2 Volts with good cable, charger, usb charging port.
If below that readings, either bad charger or bad cable or bad USB port. The last resource is cracked battery connector, this one require skill and magnified glass to see the solder joints . This battery connector is prone to crack and is the major problem of charging. If swapping a good battery and problem persists, this is where you should look
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The worst case is defective charging circuit if resoldering battery connector cannot fix the problem.
Similar issue on GT P5200, not charging
Beut said:
This tool will help you figure out, these question like this no one can have particular answer as lacking information
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...usb+power+current+and+voltage+tester&_sacat=0
You have 2 identical tablets. why don't swap the battery to see any difference ?
Use the USB tester, current should be 1.5-1.7Amps, voltage should be 5.1--5.2 Volts with good cable, charger, usb charging port.
If below that readings, either bad charger or bad cable or bad USB port. The last resource is cracked battery connector, this one require skill and magnified glass to see the solder joints . This battery connector is prone to crack and is the major problem of charging. If swapping a good battery and problem persists, this is where you should look
The worst case is defective charging circuit if resoldering battery connector cannot fix the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have Gt P5200 that couldn't charge or power on. Removed that part showed by the green arrow and it started to show the charging animation. Who knows the name? I want to check online if I can buy it. I need your help.
Note: the part removed is in the charging circuitry area. It would get hot when on charge, but nothing would display on the screen, and the tab couldn't power on.
Baptiste
The chip you're looking probably is the U5005, SAMSUNG IC-POWER SUPERVISOR
Part number 1203-007951
Or Q5002, Part Number
0505-002720
Description
Fet-silicon
Beut said:
The chip you're looking probably is the U5005, SAMSUNG IC-POWER SUPERVISOR
Part number 1203-007951
Or Q5002, Part Number
0505-002720
Description
Fet-silicon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for your help. It looks like the part is tricky. I may order both the ic power supervisor and the fet silicon.
I am not sure why the details on the physical part are not found online. Is it of any help if I provide the printed details here? I don't want to use a wrong part. I am afraid it might get irreparable.
Thanks a ton for your support!
Troubleshoot to component levels is not recommended as it's hard to find components and you have to know the schematic of the board.
It's best to find a broken screen tablet or working mainboard or not working mainboard to swap components like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...259216?hash=item3d3dd33e10:g:TjsAAOSw2kZZbcs3
This is an obsolete tablet and only worth around $70 to $80, nobody is going to spend time to fix the mainboard.
Beut said:
Troubleshoot to component levels is not recommended as it's hard to find components and you have to know the schematic of the board.
It's best to find a broken screen tablet or working mainboard or not working mainboard to swap components like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...259216?hash=item3d3dd33e10:g:TjsAAOSw2kZZbcs3
This is an obsolete tablet and only worth around $70 to $80, nobody is going to spend time to fix the mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are soo kind. Let me order it then. Thanks a lot. Will let you know how it goes.
baptenda said:
You are soo kind. Let me order it then. Thanks a lot. Will let you know how it goes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you do it for fun, it's OK. There're a lot of new LTE/Wfi with affordable prices, like SM-P605V, around $150.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...884969&hash=item1a31f07da5:g:Ps8AAOSwJGlZglri
There are a lot of new models which only required simple fix if you understand the root of problem. Most I bought are new models with problems and under $100.
Beut said:
If you do it for fun, it's OK. There're a lot of new LTE/Wfi with affordable prices, like SM-P605V, around $150.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...884969&hash=item1a31f07da5:g:Ps8AAOSwJGlZglri
There are a lot of new models which only required simple fix I you understand the root of problem. Most I bought are new models with problems and under $100.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean by for fun? I need to swap the components and have the tab fixed. 30 USD for the mainbord is not much for the tab you showed me.
Maybe you meant the mainboard to buy might have the same issue
Fixing the mainboard just by guessing as you do, probability is 50/50 when buying another not working mainboard.
If you're lucky, it has different problem. Bad luck if it has the same problem as yours.
As in US, nobody bothers to fix these old model's mainboards because new one is not much expensive. With $150, one can buy a Note 2014 SM-P605 or Tab A 2016 SM-T580, or the Tab A 8.0 SM-T350 for only $80. However, I understand that other countries, they have no choice other than fixing whatever they have.