I replaced my USB PCB IO (due to physical damage) with this : ME571KL SUB_BD./AS(WUS). I can't provide the URL because this is my first time posting, but a quick google should lead you to a link from asusparts.eu
With this new PCB, everything except for the touchscreen is operational. I know the fault is not with the digitizer since if I connect my damaged old USB PCB IO, the touchscreen works. The website mentions thus : " Please note that this part may have to be calibrated to work with your unit. To do this you will have to send your tablet to an Asus service center for calibration"
However, Asus has been very cooperative so far and I was wondering whether you would be able to provide a solution to this issue.
Thank you !
Going to replace the USB board and worried by this.
My Nexus 7 2013 has recently stopped to charge...
Tried to tighten the USB socket but that didn't help. I suppose the USB socket is dead; as I don't know how to solder, I think I'm going to have to replace the whole sub-board... but I came upon the same warning that the board needs to be calibrated and saw this thread, so I was wondering if someone knew if there's any issue with replacing it?
After looking at it closer, I found out one of the pins is broken and gone... The 4 other pins are all okay at the moment.
Off-topic, but does someone have an idea to bridge the gap between the USB socket and the board?
Soldering?
Would applying some solder to all the pins help?
leoetlino said:
Would applying some solder to all the pins help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You didn't mention where the socket pin broke off. If it's between the back pin and the board itself, then it's just a matter of dropping some solder to bridge what's left on the pin itself and the pad, or copper trace, on the board. There's no secret: you need to reestablish continuity between those two points. But since it's so tiny, you need to check for continuity with a volt meter.
How the pin broke though, is hard to understand. That's the area nothing in the operation of the tab ever touches. There are no moving parts. How did it happen?
It seems to be between the back of the connector and the board:
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A few months ago, I started having charging issues. It would charge intermittently, and after some weeks the whole port stopped working...
That's why I opened it, and to no surprise, I could see the USB connector had something wrong: as you can see, the whole GND pin has got off the board. I presume it wasn't soldered properly.
If I use a needle to manually connect the connector and the "pad", then it works fine: charging, USB data, HDMI SlimPort...
In this case, would applying some solder help?
leoetlino said:
A few months ago, I started having charging issues. It would charge intermittently, and after some weeks the whole port stopped working...
That's why I opened it, and to no surprise, I could see the USB connector had something wrong: as you can see, the whole GND pin has got off the board. I presume it wasn't soldered properly.
If I use a needle to manually connect the connector and the "pad", then it works fine: charging, USB data, HDMI SlimPort...
In this case, would applying some solder help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can drop some solder to link pin 1 of the usb socket to trace "1" on the pad, it should work. But make sure it doesn't short with pin 2. If it's too difficult, try a fine copper strand. That pin is not GND, it's 5v.
Thanks for your reply. I stand corrected.
Just a question, would there be issues if the solder also touches the other pins? Would that create a short circuit?
Hopefully I won't need to solder anything but simply apply some solder...
leoetlino said:
Thanks for your reply. I stand corrected.
Just a question, would there be issues if the solder also touches the other pins? Would that create a short circuit?
Hopefully I won't need to solder anything but simply apply some solder...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't want anything shorted, as it might fry the components. That happens, and it's the end of it. Use some gel flux, and a soldering that's no bigger than 0.8mm. At most a 1.0 mm tip. Don't try your luck with a regular 25W iron, you will fail, and end up destroying the socket. I learned it the hard way so you don't have to..
Why is this not compatible ? they do not say anything about this issue when this item is purchased.
why is this not a 'plug and play' type of replacement part ?
I have been repairing computers for 16 years and all parts that I have purchased and replaced do not need to be returned to the manufacturer for 'Calibration'. updated drivers are readily available for new parts from other vendors, So....
What does this say about Asus ?
Why do they sell replacement parts that they know will not work without their 'special attention/calibration/tool ?
I have purchased this part with the expectation that it will/should work without all this palaver.
I have asked them (ASUS) to take this matter further with their manufacturing unit and for them to 'fix' this issue and supply the already growing market for these parts with the required 'fix' ASAP.....but I'm not holding my breath.
I think this is a disgusting situation for users/pc repairers to be put into knowing that it is easier to buy a new unit than to repair the old one.
Disgruntled pc repairer
K.P.
Related
Here we go:
When I recharged my HTC in my car, I got in a little accident and the HTC flew around the car a little bit.
Long story short; the USB/Charge port broke and I got it fixed by a friend.
Took him a few days because it was totally messed up, but hey, I could recharge it.
He said he couldn't fix the USB connection, but no problem: I still had bluetooth.
However, yesterday I got really stupid...
I tried to flash the rom using my bluetooth connection.
All went fine, but ofcourse, when rebooting it got stuck.
Tried the soft reset, tried the hard reset, but no luck.
Of course I also tried all available tools (mtty) but damn, stupid me again, that won't work since the USB connection won't work; my PC doesn't even detect that there is a device connected.
So here's my question:
Is there a way to get the HTC out of bootloader menu without the use of the USB port?
As I am afraid there isn't a way, does anyone have a layout/schematic of the HTC Universal hardware layout so I can try to fix the USB connection myself?
The friend that fixed it last time moved, so I'll have to try it myself .
here is a link to the HTC Universal service manual, maybe you can find some help there.
leffetripel said:
here is a link to the HTC Universal service manual, maybe you can find some help there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Couldn't find the USB-connector anywhere in the service manual...
Yeah okay, it showed the port itself, but not where it's connected on the motherboard.
Anyone really technical who can point it out?
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martinbl said:
Couldn't find the USB-connector anywhere in the service manual...
Yeah okay, it showed the port itself, but not where it's connected on the motherboard.
Anyone really technical who can point it out?
http://xs227.xs.to/xs227/08201/usb309.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No one? :'(
i have a working motherboard, that i can sell. If you cant fix the usb connector. pm me if interested
So here's my question:
Is there a way to get the HTC out of bootloader menu without the use of the USB port?
As I am afraid there isn't a way, does anyone have a layout/schematic of the HTC Universal hardware layout so I can try to fix the USB connection myself?
The friend that fixed it last time moved, so I'll have to try it myself .[/quote]
There is one way to flash it from the SD card, look in the forum or in WIKI for more information. Here you can find picture ( as well broken mini USB) http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=381560
Bulldog said:
There is one way to flash it from the SD card, look in the forum or in WIKI for more information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't find it anywhere?
Only SD flashing for other models... Or am I just ain't looking right?
martinbl said:
I can't find it anywhere?
Only SD flashing for other models... Or am I just ain't looking right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This one may can help you
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=393370
My USB port broken also.
My USB port pulled out also. I did find my connector, even though I purchased a replacement USB off eBay. My eyes are not good enough to resolder, and am not sure what is on the other side of board that may be effected should I try. I just downloaded the PDF file ya'all listed, so now I will check it out in depth. I would prefer having a professional fix this, but here in Memphis Tn USA I have had better luck finding polar bears. I recently got this unit so I know nothing! I do realize that it probably needs to be upgraded from WM5 to WM6. I have also noticed that replacement mother boards are available also on eBay. I just purchased an used JasJar with good mother board but broken screen thinking about using it for parts to fix mine.
Hugh (toolmanfedex)
Hey
My USB port broke off, and I lost it... I dropped the phone out of my motorcycle tankbag (since it opens on the "bottom" end) the impact was severe enough that the case fell appart and speakers popped out, all the wires intact, I put it back together but the port is lost... it still works of course but my battery ran out, can't charge it without the usb port.
Anyway, I see it's delicate but not that delicate, i want to solder a new one on myself what I have to do is find one and here is my question:
Which type/sort of ports work, do I need an htc-universal specific one or is it standard and just any of the correct size where contacts overlap, is good enough?
If the answer is standard I'll get'em at the nearest electronic store, if not, where to get'em? used off ebay or some useful links any of you may have handy?
Thanks in advance,
ciao
JasJar Replacement USB Connector
This is where I got a replacement USB port for my JasJar: eBay
http://stores.ebay.com/Wincom-International
HTC Wizard IMATE JASJAR 838 D900 charge port connector
eBay Item number: 310010162549
Price: US $4.99 Shipping to USA: $5.99
Hugh
The connector you want is a "USB-to-go" or a "USB Mini-AB" SMT Scoket any good electronics component retailer should have them. The big question is have you damaged the pads on the motherboard?
oi, thanks mates, I checked that retailer out, found a local retailer with these components, if it's a standard one, it should work, I'll try to see if it works before soldering (using some duct tape or something I guess).
I'm pretty sure I haven't damaged the pads on the motherboard, the thing just "gently" broke off (as gentle as you can imagine a break can be). How would damage look like? They look intact really... and it's a big enough patch that I feel confident soldering on.
I ordered one of these connectors and should be here tomorrow. Thanks again for info.
---
well apparently not... only A or B in stock, but not the -AB in all the local retailers, guess I'll grab it from the ebay one Thanks for that info too again.
Now then, several months later, my usb socket broke off again.
I really lost trust in my universal, it feels just... touchy, like it's a human baby, that's how I act when I carry it around and don't like it. Since I don't want my mobile device to be such a "burden" really I'm thinking about replacing it.
I'm not an elec-technician, in fact I've soldered a few things in my life, but this one, I somehow did, I didn't have fine enough tools so some of the contacts got spilled and interconnected and I peeled off the links with a boxcutter knife later. It was a few-hour endeavour. Yeah crude and barbaric but in the end, I managed that without damaging the motherboard. It worked, active syncinc, everything, but I felt it wasn't really stable. Since I don't have an external battery charger, my uni is sadly out of order now.
I have a question:
How to solder this thing back on properly?
And when done so, how sturdy is it? Sturdy enough?
Thanks, regards
The USB connector is a pain to solder as you need a big tip to solder to the big pads that hold it in place and a small tip to solder the actual USB data pins. If it is done correctly it can out last the Uni. I can repair it for you if you like, it wont be the first and I'm sure it wont be the last. PM me if you are intrested.
DONT try to resoldere it urself, u need skill and especially a proper LOW WATT soldering tool!! its also easy tofuck it up, permanently.
i'm not sure if u can find electronic guys willing to do this ( cause its a small job for them), but ur best bet would be to visit the local guy who does PS2/XBOX/GAMECUBE modchip iinstalls...he'll solder ur usb port in 2 minutes.
Just to let you know I've been a electroinc engineer for 15+ years this sort of thing is my bread and butter. If you want to see the standard I work too check out the 128Mb Upgrade page thats my work and the kind of equipment I have.
But I agree with Starik do try it yourself unless your are skilled at soldering and have the right tools.
hi there,
I had spilled water on the top of my galaxy nexus this morning and it wiped out the ear speaker. so i decided to open it up and eventually after some tinkering around I managed to fix it, however, I hadn't realised when lifting the mainboard that the volume switch was soldered onto it, and ended up breaking the connection. you can see it from the picture below. how can I solder this back? its a very small connection. i cant seem to find any videos or guides on how to solder back connections like this.
any help would be grateful, thanks
everything else with the phone is working fine though, but i lost the ability to go to recovery or bootloader
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Can't be done, you broke 2 of the connections from the ribbon itself.
You'll have to either buy a whole new ribbon, or a whole new board with the ribbon already soldered on.
The picture also seems to indicate the pad being lifted from the other board. If that is indeed the case (feel the area of the board for a depression), your repair just got a lot more expensive - you may need to replace the board too.
Below point may be moot given the damage in question, but the actual soldering is best done with a high power but temperature controlled soldering station like the Weller WES51. You also need lead free solder, fresh tip, very steady hand, and quite probably a third hand (a tool that looks like two posable alligator clips, to hold your work piece).
motopig said:
The picture also seems to indicate the pad being lifted from the other board. If that is indeed the case (feel the area of the board for a depression), your repair just got a lot more expensive - you may need to replace the board too.
Below point may be moot given the damage in question, but the actual soldering is best done with a high power but temperature controlled soldering station like the Weller WES51. You also need lead free solder, fresh tip, very steady hand, and quite probably a third hand (a tool that looks like two posable alligator clips, to hold your work piece).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i assume you mean the pads where the connection was? its ok its just that the soldered bits are abit lifted. the board doesn't seem to have any damage.
I've contacted Samsung about this, i hope they get back to me in time. i can still use the phone though, just cant change volume or get any vibrations lol
IINexusII said:
i assume you mean the pads where the connection was? its ok its just that the soldered bits are abit lifted. the board doesn't seem to have any damage.
I've contacted Samsung about this, i hope they get back to me in time. i can still use the phone though, just cant change volume or get any vibrations lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never said the board need replacement because it isn't working , just that if the copper pad itself was lifted (or worse, torn) from the board, you will never be able to fully fix the connection yourself because you have nothing on the board to complete the circuit with, without going for more drastic measures.
Samsung may very well ask you to send the phone in, then I'm willing to bet that they'll swap the board as well. That is if they don't try to void your warranty.
yeah, so i ended up buying a faulty GN with a broken screen off eBay ill swap my screen with that one and sell mine too as faulty..
sad times, but ill be back
Ive been having this issue with my GNex since I got it. I believe the previous owner had the same issue which is why I got a great deal.
When plug the phone in it will show a lightning bolt through the icon in the corner and the lock screen says that it is charging. When I go to the battery screen, however, it always says "not charging". Most importantly, the phone doesn't charge.
It will connect to the computer via usb cable.
When I first got it I found the micro-usb jack was all mangled, pins were all bent. I assumed this was the problem and I replaced the jack with a new one. The problem did not go away. Not only that but I built a cradle charger that uses the pogo pins and that ALSO doesn't work. I do not believe it is software related because this problem has persisted over major updates. Its running stock 4.2
Has anyone seen this problem before???
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Same story for me
I do. Same story for me. Bought it used, Opened up, fully charged, used it, loved it. Two days and i put it to charge overnight. Next morning, phone is powered off. But connected, and it says its charging. I have the exact same issue. Changed the USB charging module ( thought about making a POGO cradle) , bought new batterys ( even a hyperion 3800) , wall charger for the batterys.
Issue is not gone. Im using the phone at the moment with a PowerPack 2200mah . So it thinks it is connected to sumthin and not using the battery. Anoying but it lets me use my phone. Sometimes it charges to 20-30% , 60% once . But the issue is there. I've read a lot and i think is not the charging module itself but the MAX17040 fuel gauge chip that reads the SoC on the batterys.
Anyone else?
My old roommate had this problem and sent hers in for a replacement.
Adler87 said:
When I first got it I found the micro-usb jack was all mangled, pins were all bent. I assumed this was the problem and I replaced the jack with a new one. The problem did not go away.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, you replaced the jack of the wall charger or the microusb module inside the gnex? If i understood correctly and the wall charger had a jack with bent pins, that means that almost certainly either the bent pins damaged the microusb module of the gnex or the damage to the pins was maybe caused while charger was connected to the phone. The fact that the phone still connects to the charger still doesn't mean there is no damage, it could be just a pin, the "wrong" pin, to be damaged.
Replacing the microusb module is not something too difficult with the gnex and it's not too expensive either. You could think about looking for a spare part online and replace it.
Wortdurst said:
Sorry, you replaced the jack of the wall charger or the microusb module inside the gnex? If i understood correctly and the wall charger had a jack with bent pins, that means that almost certainly either the bent pins damaged the microusb module of the gnex or the damage to the pins was maybe caused while charger was connected to the phone. The fact that the phone still connects to the charger still doesn't mean there is no damage, it could be just a pin, the "wrong" pin, to be damaged.
Replacing the microusb module is not something too difficult with the gnex and it's not too expensive either. You could think about looking for a spare part online and replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry I wasn't clear. I replaced the microusb module inside the phone.
My current strategy is to use an external battery charger and two batteries.
I think this is software related. It just happened to my Nexus 4 today. I rebooted it and it fixed itself.
c0LdFire said:
I think this is software related. It just happened to my Nexus 4 today. I rebooted it and it fixed itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty sure its not software related. I had this problem in 4.1 and now I have it in 4.2. Unless there is some more basic software that is not updated with the OS.
There's a few threads like this floating around (including one i made. you may have already looked through them but i'll post the links)
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1794231
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2080383
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2059289
Anyways my issue like this started soon after i flashed my first 4.2 rom. flashing to any other rom (4.1, stock, anything), nor changing chargers, cables, or batteries helped. I eventually gave up and went to the verizon store where i briefly explained to the lady "it only charges to a certain level no matter the battery" and she said alright no problem and had my a like new replacement 2 days later.
in one of the above threads someone tried replacing the microusb board and it resulted in no change.
hopefully this gets sorted out soon.
crowmallet said:
There's a few threads like this floating around (including one i made. you may have already looked through them but i'll post the links)
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1794231
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2080383
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2059289
Anyways my issue like this started soon after i flashed my first 4.2 rom. flashing to any other rom (4.1, stock, anything), nor changing chargers, cables, or batteries helped. I eventually gave up and went to the verizon store where i briefly explained to the lady "it only charges to a certain level no matter the battery" and she said alright no problem and had my a like new replacement 2 days later.
in one of the above threads someone tried replacing the microusb board and it resulted in no change.
hopefully this gets sorted out soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've seen one or two of those and many others but they are all somewhat different than my issue. My phone doesn't seem to charge at all. It doesn't start and stop prematurely, it just thinks it's starting but I have yet to see the charge go up while its plugged in.
All,
I have two P5210 - 10.1 tablets.
Charging the 1st one with a certain charger - very fast, no issues
Charging the 2nd one with the same charger - very slow (but it charges)
Please note that I did replace the internal USB-charge-cable recently of the 2nd device because before that the tablet
did not charge at all.
Because of this I did not use the device for many months so the battery was really really empty.
How slow does the 2nd tablet charge? Well, using the charger mentioned above the battery went from 0% to 17%
in about 3-4 hours ... then I charged it overnight (7 hours or so) and it was around 28%.
Of course I do suspect the new USB-charge-cable being the issue but how does that impact this?
I mean: it charges, or it does not; If it charges then it must be connected correctly (it's hard to do it wrong).
Any ideas??
Thanks!
This tool will help you figure out, these question like this no one can have particular answer as lacking information
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...usb+power+current+and+voltage+tester&_sacat=0
You have 2 identical tablets. why don't swap the battery to see any difference ?
Use the USB tester, current should be 1.5-1.7Amps, voltage should be 5.1--5.2 Volts with good cable, charger, usb charging port.
If below that readings, either bad charger or bad cable or bad USB port. The last resource is cracked battery connector, this one require skill and magnified glass to see the solder joints . This battery connector is prone to crack and is the major problem of charging. If swapping a good battery and problem persists, this is where you should look
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The worst case is defective charging circuit if resoldering battery connector cannot fix the problem.
Similar issue on GT P5200, not charging
Beut said:
This tool will help you figure out, these question like this no one can have particular answer as lacking information
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...usb+power+current+and+voltage+tester&_sacat=0
You have 2 identical tablets. why don't swap the battery to see any difference ?
Use the USB tester, current should be 1.5-1.7Amps, voltage should be 5.1--5.2 Volts with good cable, charger, usb charging port.
If below that readings, either bad charger or bad cable or bad USB port. The last resource is cracked battery connector, this one require skill and magnified glass to see the solder joints . This battery connector is prone to crack and is the major problem of charging. If swapping a good battery and problem persists, this is where you should look
The worst case is defective charging circuit if resoldering battery connector cannot fix the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have Gt P5200 that couldn't charge or power on. Removed that part showed by the green arrow and it started to show the charging animation. Who knows the name? I want to check online if I can buy it. I need your help.
Note: the part removed is in the charging circuitry area. It would get hot when on charge, but nothing would display on the screen, and the tab couldn't power on.
Baptiste
The chip you're looking probably is the U5005, SAMSUNG IC-POWER SUPERVISOR
Part number 1203-007951
Or Q5002, Part Number
0505-002720
Description
Fet-silicon
Beut said:
The chip you're looking probably is the U5005, SAMSUNG IC-POWER SUPERVISOR
Part number 1203-007951
Or Q5002, Part Number
0505-002720
Description
Fet-silicon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for your help. It looks like the part is tricky. I may order both the ic power supervisor and the fet silicon.
I am not sure why the details on the physical part are not found online. Is it of any help if I provide the printed details here? I don't want to use a wrong part. I am afraid it might get irreparable.
Thanks a ton for your support!
Troubleshoot to component levels is not recommended as it's hard to find components and you have to know the schematic of the board.
It's best to find a broken screen tablet or working mainboard or not working mainboard to swap components like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...259216?hash=item3d3dd33e10:g:TjsAAOSw2kZZbcs3
This is an obsolete tablet and only worth around $70 to $80, nobody is going to spend time to fix the mainboard.
Beut said:
Troubleshoot to component levels is not recommended as it's hard to find components and you have to know the schematic of the board.
It's best to find a broken screen tablet or working mainboard or not working mainboard to swap components like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...259216?hash=item3d3dd33e10:g:TjsAAOSw2kZZbcs3
This is an obsolete tablet and only worth around $70 to $80, nobody is going to spend time to fix the mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are soo kind. Let me order it then. Thanks a lot. Will let you know how it goes.
baptenda said:
You are soo kind. Let me order it then. Thanks a lot. Will let you know how it goes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you do it for fun, it's OK. There're a lot of new LTE/Wfi with affordable prices, like SM-P605V, around $150.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...884969&hash=item1a31f07da5:g:Ps8AAOSwJGlZglri
There are a lot of new models which only required simple fix if you understand the root of problem. Most I bought are new models with problems and under $100.
Beut said:
If you do it for fun, it's OK. There're a lot of new LTE/Wfi with affordable prices, like SM-P605V, around $150.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...884969&hash=item1a31f07da5:g:Ps8AAOSwJGlZglri
There are a lot of new models which only required simple fix I you understand the root of problem. Most I bought are new models with problems and under $100.
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What do you mean by for fun? I need to swap the components and have the tab fixed. 30 USD for the mainbord is not much for the tab you showed me.
Maybe you meant the mainboard to buy might have the same issue
Fixing the mainboard just by guessing as you do, probability is 50/50 when buying another not working mainboard.
If you're lucky, it has different problem. Bad luck if it has the same problem as yours.
As in US, nobody bothers to fix these old model's mainboards because new one is not much expensive. With $150, one can buy a Note 2014 SM-P605 or Tab A 2016 SM-T580, or the Tab A 8.0 SM-T350 for only $80. However, I understand that other countries, they have no choice other than fixing whatever they have.
Hi,
My HTC 10's battery wasn't holding a charge for very long and the rear camera needed to be replaced so last night, following instructions online, I opened up the phone, and replaced the LCD screen, the rear housing, the rear camera module, the battery and the USB charging port (which includes microphone and capacitive buttons). I made sure to carefully put everything back together exactly as I took it apart. Every wire, every ribbon, every screw and every piece of tape.
Now that I've got it all back together and buttoned up, I tried charging it. It seems to only recognize chargers as USB (as if it's a computer port) and therefore charges EXTREMELY slow. The battery is OEM HTC and the Charging port also looks OEM, identical to the ones I removed. Anyone know what's going on? I've tried plugging the device into the original HTC QC3 charger and cable as well as an Anker battery pack which also supports QC3.
USB charging speed makes this phone basically unusable now. I use the device constantly throughout the day and it's not going to work like this. Does anyone have any experience taking this phone apart and might have any guesses as to what's going on?
Edit: Here's what a night of being plugged into the official HTC charger + cable looks like. What would have charged the phone fine normally via QC3.
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just becuase it looks oem doesnt mean it is.
I had this happen to me with an m7 way back. Charging port was crap and decided on replacing it instead of dealing with the insurance dectuble. Bought the port for 40 bucks and it came with tool all nicely packaged. Replacement was easy but once i tried the port out it kept giving me a usb prompt for connection options and it would only charge at less than 1 amp. Pull the phone apart again and plug in the old port and bam direct fast charging no prompt.
So I opened the phone back up, and swapped back in the original charging port. Still won't quick charge... How can I be sure it's not some software reset that is needed? I'm almost ready to just cave in and go buy a new phone tomorrow...
Any other ideas? I can try reconnecting the original battery and see if that works next. It's just a huge PITA removing the mid-frame from the rear housing every time. I can't test the phone without the rear housing because of the antennas. It just boot loops if you try.
Edit: I plugged it into a PC USB port and it's not detecting that it's a data port at all, and treats it just like it would a wall charger (albeit charging extremely slowly). That leads me to believe it's not the battery at all and the fact that the old port is doing the same thing is concerning. Could I have damaged something? There are 4 plugs that go into that charger board. The main snap down plug, two small cables and another small ribbon cable. All look to be in good solid condition with no visible damage. Hmm.......
drumz0rz said:
So I opened the phone back up, and swapped back in the original charging port. Still won't quick charge... How can I be sure it's not some software reset that is needed? I'm almost ready to just cave in and go buy a new phone tomorrow...
Any other ideas? I can try reconnecting the original battery and see if that works next. It's just a huge PITA removing the mid-frame from the rear housing every time. I can't test the phone without the rear housing because of the antennas. It just boot loops if you try.
Edit: I plugged it into a PC USB port and it's not detecting that it's a data port at all, and treats it just like it would a wall charger (albeit charging extremely slowly). That leads me to believe it's not the battery at all and the fact that the old port is doing the same thing is concerning. Could I have damaged something? There are 4 plugs that go into that charger board. The main snap down plug, two small cables and another small ribbon cable. All look to be in good solid condition with no visible damage. Hmm.......
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I wouldnt trust pc usb ports.
Sounds like it needs to calibrate maybe?. Let it slowcharge until its 100% and reboot.
So I took the phone apart again, took the USB port board off, and wiped it all down with 91% iso including the ribbon connectors, then plugged it all back in. Low and behold, it's working now! Great right? Except in the process of putting the phone back together, I managed to rip off the back button ribbon.... FML
So now that I know the original board is working again, I suspect it had to do with one of the ribbon connectors, specifically the one that's held down by two screws. Maybe it wasn't aligned just right or something.
Tomorrow I'm going to pray to all the non-existent gods and try swapping in the replacement board, cleaning it with iso again, one last time. Hopefully it works.