Develop Bugs

GNex will not charge but thinks it is.

Ive been having this issue with my GNex since I got it. I believe the previous owner had the same issue which is why I got a great deal.
When plug the phone in it will show a lightning bolt through the icon in the corner and the lock screen says that it is charging. When I go to the battery screen, however, it always says "not charging". Most importantly, the phone doesn't charge.
It will connect to the computer via usb cable.
When I first got it I found the micro-usb jack was all mangled, pins were all bent. I assumed this was the problem and I replaced the jack with a new one. The problem did not go away. Not only that but I built a cradle charger that uses the pogo pins and that ALSO doesn't work. I do not believe it is software related because this problem has persisted over major updates. Its running stock 4.2
Has anyone seen this problem before???
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Same story for me
I do. Same story for me. Bought it used, Opened up, fully charged, used it, loved it. Two days and i put it to charge overnight. Next morning, phone is powered off. But connected, and it says its charging. I have the exact same issue. Changed the USB charging module ( thought about making a POGO cradle) , bought new batterys ( even a hyperion 3800) , wall charger for the batterys.
Issue is not gone. Im using the phone at the moment with a PowerPack 2200mah . So it thinks it is connected to sumthin and not using the battery. Anoying but it lets me use my phone. Sometimes it charges to 20-30% , 60% once . But the issue is there. I've read a lot and i think is not the charging module itself but the MAX17040 fuel gauge chip that reads the SoC on the batterys.
Anyone else?

My old roommate had this problem and sent hers in for a replacement.

Adler87 said:
When I first got it I found the micro-usb jack was all mangled, pins were all bent. I assumed this was the problem and I replaced the jack with a new one. The problem did not go away.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, you replaced the jack of the wall charger or the microusb module inside the gnex? If i understood correctly and the wall charger had a jack with bent pins, that means that almost certainly either the bent pins damaged the microusb module of the gnex or the damage to the pins was maybe caused while charger was connected to the phone. The fact that the phone still connects to the charger still doesn't mean there is no damage, it could be just a pin, the "wrong" pin, to be damaged.
Replacing the microusb module is not something too difficult with the gnex and it's not too expensive either. You could think about looking for a spare part online and replace it.

Wortdurst said:
Sorry, you replaced the jack of the wall charger or the microusb module inside the gnex? If i understood correctly and the wall charger had a jack with bent pins, that means that almost certainly either the bent pins damaged the microusb module of the gnex or the damage to the pins was maybe caused while charger was connected to the phone. The fact that the phone still connects to the charger still doesn't mean there is no damage, it could be just a pin, the "wrong" pin, to be damaged.
Replacing the microusb module is not something too difficult with the gnex and it's not too expensive either. You could think about looking for a spare part online and replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry I wasn't clear. I replaced the microusb module inside the phone.
My current strategy is to use an external battery charger and two batteries.

I think this is software related. It just happened to my Nexus 4 today. I rebooted it and it fixed itself.

c0LdFire said:
I think this is software related. It just happened to my Nexus 4 today. I rebooted it and it fixed itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty sure its not software related. I had this problem in 4.1 and now I have it in 4.2. Unless there is some more basic software that is not updated with the OS.

There's a few threads like this floating around (including one i made. you may have already looked through them but i'll post the links)
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1794231
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2080383
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2059289
Anyways my issue like this started soon after i flashed my first 4.2 rom. flashing to any other rom (4.1, stock, anything), nor changing chargers, cables, or batteries helped. I eventually gave up and went to the verizon store where i briefly explained to the lady "it only charges to a certain level no matter the battery" and she said alright no problem and had my a like new replacement 2 days later.
in one of the above threads someone tried replacing the microusb board and it resulted in no change.
hopefully this gets sorted out soon.

crowmallet said:
There's a few threads like this floating around (including one i made. you may have already looked through them but i'll post the links)
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1794231
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2080383
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2059289
Anyways my issue like this started soon after i flashed my first 4.2 rom. flashing to any other rom (4.1, stock, anything), nor changing chargers, cables, or batteries helped. I eventually gave up and went to the verizon store where i briefly explained to the lady "it only charges to a certain level no matter the battery" and she said alright no problem and had my a like new replacement 2 days later.
in one of the above threads someone tried replacing the microusb board and it resulted in no change.
hopefully this gets sorted out soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've seen one or two of those and many others but they are all somewhat different than my issue. My phone doesn't seem to charge at all. It doesn't start and stop prematurely, it just thinks it's starting but I have yet to see the charge go up while its plugged in.

[Q] USB IO PCB Touchscreen calibration for Nexus 7 2013

I replaced my USB PCB IO (due to physical damage) with this : ME571KL SUB_BD./AS(WUS). I can't provide the URL because this is my first time posting, but a quick google should lead you to a link from asusparts.eu
With this new PCB, everything except for the touchscreen is operational. I know the fault is not with the digitizer since if I connect my damaged old USB PCB IO, the touchscreen works. The website mentions thus : " Please note that this part may have to be calibrated to work with your unit. To do this you will have to send your tablet to an Asus service center for calibration"
However, Asus has been very cooperative so far and I was wondering whether you would be able to provide a solution to this issue.
Thank you !

Going to replace the USB board and worried by this.
My Nexus 7 2013 has recently stopped to charge...
Tried to tighten the USB socket but that didn't help. I suppose the USB socket is dead; as I don't know how to solder, I think I'm going to have to replace the whole sub-board... but I came upon the same warning that the board needs to be calibrated and saw this thread, so I was wondering if someone knew if there's any issue with replacing it?

After looking at it closer, I found out one of the pins is broken and gone... The 4 other pins are all okay at the moment.
Off-topic, but does someone have an idea to bridge the gap between the USB socket and the board?

Soldering?
Would applying some solder to all the pins help?

leoetlino said:
Would applying some solder to all the pins help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You didn't mention where the socket pin broke off. If it's between the back pin and the board itself, then it's just a matter of dropping some solder to bridge what's left on the pin itself and the pad, or copper trace, on the board. There's no secret: you need to reestablish continuity between those two points. But since it's so tiny, you need to check for continuity with a volt meter.
How the pin broke though, is hard to understand. That's the area nothing in the operation of the tab ever touches. There are no moving parts. How did it happen?

It seems to be between the back of the connector and the board:
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A few months ago, I started having charging issues. It would charge intermittently, and after some weeks the whole port stopped working...
That's why I opened it, and to no surprise, I could see the USB connector had something wrong: as you can see, the whole GND pin has got off the board. I presume it wasn't soldered properly.
If I use a needle to manually connect the connector and the "pad", then it works fine: charging, USB data, HDMI SlimPort...
In this case, would applying some solder help?

leoetlino said:
A few months ago, I started having charging issues. It would charge intermittently, and after some weeks the whole port stopped working...
That's why I opened it, and to no surprise, I could see the USB connector had something wrong: as you can see, the whole GND pin has got off the board. I presume it wasn't soldered properly.
If I use a needle to manually connect the connector and the "pad", then it works fine: charging, USB data, HDMI SlimPort...
In this case, would applying some solder help?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can drop some solder to link pin 1 of the usb socket to trace "1" on the pad, it should work. But make sure it doesn't short with pin 2. If it's too difficult, try a fine copper strand. That pin is not GND, it's 5v.

Thanks for your reply. I stand corrected.
Just a question, would there be issues if the solder also touches the other pins? Would that create a short circuit?
Hopefully I won't need to solder anything but simply apply some solder...

leoetlino said:
Thanks for your reply. I stand corrected.
Just a question, would there be issues if the solder also touches the other pins? Would that create a short circuit?
Hopefully I won't need to solder anything but simply apply some solder...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't want anything shorted, as it might fry the components. That happens, and it's the end of it. Use some gel flux, and a soldering that's no bigger than 0.8mm. At most a 1.0 mm tip. Don't try your luck with a regular 25W iron, you will fail, and end up destroying the socket. I learned it the hard way so you don't have to..

Why is this not compatible ? they do not say anything about this issue when this item is purchased.
why is this not a 'plug and play' type of replacement part ?
I have been repairing computers for 16 years and all parts that I have purchased and replaced do not need to be returned to the manufacturer for 'Calibration'. updated drivers are readily available for new parts from other vendors, So....
What does this say about Asus ?
Why do they sell replacement parts that they know will not work without their 'special attention/calibration/tool ?
I have purchased this part with the expectation that it will/should work without all this palaver.
I have asked them (ASUS) to take this matter further with their manufacturing unit and for them to 'fix' this issue and supply the already growing market for these parts with the required 'fix' ASAP.....but I'm not holding my breath.
I think this is a disgusting situation for users/pc repairers to be put into knowing that it is easier to buy a new unit than to repair the old one.
Disgruntled pc repairer
K.P.

tab 3 / P5210 / 10.1 - charging very very slow

All,
I have two P5210 - 10.1 tablets.
Charging the 1st one with a certain charger - very fast, no issues
Charging the 2nd one with the same charger - very slow (but it charges)
Please note that I did replace the internal USB-charge-cable recently of the 2nd device because before that the tablet
did not charge at all.
Because of this I did not use the device for many months so the battery was really really empty.
How slow does the 2nd tablet charge? Well, using the charger mentioned above the battery went from 0% to 17%
in about 3-4 hours ... then I charged it overnight (7 hours or so) and it was around 28%.
Of course I do suspect the new USB-charge-cable being the issue but how does that impact this?
I mean: it charges, or it does not; If it charges then it must be connected correctly (it's hard to do it wrong).
Any ideas??
Thanks!

This tool will help you figure out, these question like this no one can have particular answer as lacking information
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...usb+power+current+and+voltage+tester&_sacat=0
You have 2 identical tablets. why don't swap the battery to see any difference ?
Use the USB tester, current should be 1.5-1.7Amps, voltage should be 5.1--5.2 Volts with good cable, charger, usb charging port.
If below that readings, either bad charger or bad cable or bad USB port. The last resource is cracked battery connector, this one require skill and magnified glass to see the solder joints . This battery connector is prone to crack and is the major problem of charging. If swapping a good battery and problem persists, this is where you should look
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The worst case is defective charging circuit if resoldering battery connector cannot fix the problem.

Similar issue on GT P5200, not charging
Beut said:
This tool will help you figure out, these question like this no one can have particular answer as lacking information
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...usb+power+current+and+voltage+tester&_sacat=0
You have 2 identical tablets. why don't swap the battery to see any difference ?
Use the USB tester, current should be 1.5-1.7Amps, voltage should be 5.1--5.2 Volts with good cable, charger, usb charging port.
If below that readings, either bad charger or bad cable or bad USB port. The last resource is cracked battery connector, this one require skill and magnified glass to see the solder joints . This battery connector is prone to crack and is the major problem of charging. If swapping a good battery and problem persists, this is where you should look
The worst case is defective charging circuit if resoldering battery connector cannot fix the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have Gt P5200 that couldn't charge or power on. Removed that part showed by the green arrow and it started to show the charging animation. Who knows the name? I want to check online if I can buy it. I need your help.
Note: the part removed is in the charging circuitry area. It would get hot when on charge, but nothing would display on the screen, and the tab couldn't power on.
Baptiste

The chip you're looking probably is the U5005, SAMSUNG IC-POWER SUPERVISOR
Part number 1203-007951
Or Q5002, Part Number
0505-002720
Description
Fet-silicon

Beut said:
The chip you're looking probably is the U5005, SAMSUNG IC-POWER SUPERVISOR
Part number 1203-007951
Or Q5002, Part Number
0505-002720
Description
Fet-silicon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you so much for your help. It looks like the part is tricky. I may order both the ic power supervisor and the fet silicon.
I am not sure why the details on the physical part are not found online. Is it of any help if I provide the printed details here? I don't want to use a wrong part. I am afraid it might get irreparable.
Thanks a ton for your support!

Troubleshoot to component levels is not recommended as it's hard to find components and you have to know the schematic of the board.
It's best to find a broken screen tablet or working mainboard or not working mainboard to swap components like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...259216?hash=item3d3dd33e10:g:TjsAAOSw2kZZbcs3
This is an obsolete tablet and only worth around $70 to $80, nobody is going to spend time to fix the mainboard.

Beut said:
Troubleshoot to component levels is not recommended as it's hard to find components and you have to know the schematic of the board.
It's best to find a broken screen tablet or working mainboard or not working mainboard to swap components like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...259216?hash=item3d3dd33e10:g:TjsAAOSw2kZZbcs3
This is an obsolete tablet and only worth around $70 to $80, nobody is going to spend time to fix the mainboard.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are soo kind. Let me order it then. Thanks a lot. Will let you know how it goes.

baptenda said:
You are soo kind. Let me order it then. Thanks a lot. Will let you know how it goes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you do it for fun, it's OK. There're a lot of new LTE/Wfi with affordable prices, like SM-P605V, around $150.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...884969&hash=item1a31f07da5:g:Ps8AAOSwJGlZglri
There are a lot of new models which only required simple fix if you understand the root of problem. Most I bought are new models with problems and under $100.

Beut said:
If you do it for fun, it's OK. There're a lot of new LTE/Wfi with affordable prices, like SM-P605V, around $150.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Gal...884969&hash=item1a31f07da5:g:Ps8AAOSwJGlZglri
There are a lot of new models which only required simple fix I you understand the root of problem. Most I bought are new models with problems and under $100.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean by for fun? I need to swap the components and have the tab fixed. 30 USD for the mainbord is not much for the tab you showed me.
Maybe you meant the mainboard to buy might have the same issue

Fixing the mainboard just by guessing as you do, probability is 50/50 when buying another not working mainboard.
If you're lucky, it has different problem. Bad luck if it has the same problem as yours.
As in US, nobody bothers to fix these old model's mainboards because new one is not much expensive. With $150, one can buy a Note 2014 SM-P605 or Tab A 2016 SM-T580, or the Tab A 8.0 SM-T350 for only $80. However, I understand that other countries, they have no choice other than fixing whatever they have.

eMMC pinout on fire TV stick basic ?

Hi,
Do you have informations about pinout of eMMC chip on stick basic edition ?
Do you know if it can be rooted with hardware using rom for v2 or v1 ?
Thanks a lot !
Regards

https://forum.xda-developers.com/fire-tv/general/hardware-root-via-emmc-chip-t2885344
https://www.exploitee.rs/index.php/Amazon_Fire_TV_Stick​

Thanks you for the links... but the links above are for TV stick v1 not for TV stick basic edition.
Anyway, I will post there.

I'm also looking for the eMMC pinout on the basic. From what I've read, it's the same as the FireTV Stick 2nd Gen, but even that I can't find pinouts for.
Here are some board pics for the Basic.
UPDATE: pic updated with pinouts as I find them.
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UPDATE: It seems as though the difference between the two chips may be more important than I had previously thought. The PD/ZB is the package code, and comparing the MT29TZZZ8D5JKEZB-107 W.95Q to the MT29TZZZ8D5JKETS-107 W.95Q it would appear as though the BGA is completely different (168 pin vs 221, layout also being completely different). I may just have to donate this FireTV basic to the cause and lift it. If i'm lucky my BGA rework skills are still half as good as the Xbox 360 days.
Did a bit of digging, and it seems the markings on the eMMC do not simply reflect any internal models of the chip (as evident by a simple google search), but luckily Micron has their own decoder you can use.
The chip beside the ARM CPU appears to be an eMMC/RAM combo unit. Searching their site I cannot locate anything for MT29TZZZ8D5JKEPD-107 W.95T specifically, but there are some that are very close, like the MT29TZZZ8D5JKEZB-107 W.95Q. The difference between the chips is one has 8GM RAM the other (which I can't find) is the FireTV Basic which has 1GB ram.
Regardless, it looks like we're gonna have to pull the chip to determine where the required BGA pins can be accessed externally as there doesn't appear to be anything close to the eMMC. My guess is the underside of the board will be where most the pins will be accessed (hopefully).
Data sheet can be found here
And below is a cheat sheet:

My SMD rework station came in (needed a new iron and was sick of heatgunning BGAs) so I put it to use right away and lifted the eMMC/RAM BGA.
Lo and behold, my guesstimate appears to be correct.
It would appear as though the MT29TZZZ8D5JKEPD-107 W.95T layout matches that of the board.
I unfortunately lost my bottle of rubbing alcohol so couldn't clean up the board for better pictures so this will have to do for now. Hopefully I'll have some time to trace some of the required pins in the near future once I get some more rubbing alcohol. CMD/DAT0/DAT5 can be visibly traced to outside the chip, the others will require manually mapping across the PCB for alternate locations. But for now, this is looking promising.
It's also worth noting (I picked up another FireTV in case I can't reball this one) that the one I just lifted the BGA from was a Samsung eMMC and not a Micron like my first FireTV Basic. Of course though, the datasheet is not available so I will work from the pinout in the MT29TZZZ8D5JKEPD-107 W.95T as planned.

Thanks you it's really a great work !

Well guys, I'm trying to interface with the eMMC by dead bug (pulled BGA, wired it to the exploiteers low voltage adapter but I'm not having any luck. Can't seem to find any issues with the wiring, but she just won't recognize in the computer. Anyone got some hints/ideas?

iLLNiSS do you have the pinouts? I have the same device and would be willing to try.

goalguy10 said:
iLLNiSS do you have the pinouts? I have the same device and would be willing to try.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Negative. I took a break after the dead bug method came up empty handed for me. I suppose I can trace out the points still and someone else can try without lifting the BGA but I wouldn't make any guarantees.
Keep an eye out here in the near future. If I get around to it I'll have them posted here right after, I'm just busy with other projects and work.

Hey guys,
I opened also my fire TV stick (2nd gen) that shoud be the same like the fire tv stick basic and found the same layout of the board as shown in the picture of iLLNiSS.
The emmc on my fire tv stick is made by SK HYNIX with the part number "H9TQ64A8GTACUR-KUM".
I didn´t find the data sheet for this emmc. However, I found the data sheet for "H9TQ17ABJTMCUR" that has the same dimension but 16gb storage. In this data sheet there you can see that the pinout is the same as found by iLLNiSS. So we are heading the right direction.

iLLNiSS said:
Negative. I took a break after the dead bug method came up empty handed for me. I suppose I can trace out the points still and someone else can try without lifting the BGA but I wouldn't make any guarantees.
Keep an eye out here in the near future. If I get around to it I'll have them posted here right after, I'm just busy with other projects and work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You get a chance to trace the points? I have one with the chip still on it I would be willing to try.

EMMC Connections 100 Images
Here is a link for buying those emmc connections
H t t p
electronics-tricks.blogspot.com/2018/07/emmc-connection-pictures.html?m=1

Well, I'm back!
Sorry for the delay, I mostly lost interest due to taking on a new position at my company.
So, good news! I've successfully communicated with the eMMC. I was having the same issues as I mentioned previously, and was about to give up when I traced some voltages while the MMC was plugged into the reader and it came alive. Not sure why, but I'm not complaining. I can confirm that the cheatsheet pinout I previously posted is correct.
Currently setting up a linux distro again so I can dump the contents. Hopefully all goes well!
If anyone who knows what they're doing feel free to request the dumps. Maybe it could help with a non hardware root.
UPDATE: So it wasn't dumping the partitions fully (kept failing randomly) and now it's no longer reading like it was before. I suspect there is too much interference so I may try shortening my wires (they are only like 6" long). So for now, all I can say is the pinouts are accurate.
UPDATE2: CLK pad ripped up as is tradition! Looks like I'll have to look at tracing again. Sorry folks!
Please refer to this post for pinouts. I will be adding them as I find them. https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=74633569&postcount=4

since nobody helped on emmc pinout i had to do it myself
http://s6.picofile.com/file/8375750792/firestick_basic_emmc_pinout.jpg

oktay50000 said:
since nobody helped on emmc pinout i had to do it myself
http://s6.picofile.com/file/8375750792/firestick_basic_emmc_pinout.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tested this with an emmc adapter?
I suppose you have to desolder the clk resistor, in order to stop the SOC from booting?

Sus_i said:
Have you tested this with an emmc adapter?
I suppose you have to desolder the clk resistor, in order to stop the SOC from booting?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you have to pull the emmc to use in the adaptor , if your micros soldering skill is good then you can do it without removing the resistor by using thin wires if not ,remove it program the emmc and then solder the resistor back ,its better than removing the ic itself lol

oktay50000 said:
you have to pull the emmc to use in the adaptor , if your micros soldering skill is good then you can do it without removing the resistor by using thin wires if not ,remove it program the emmc and then solder the resistor back ,its better than removing the ic itself lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thank you.
Yeah, I have the low voltage emmc adapter from exploitee.rs, had it connected to the first generation stick and the first generation firetv.
Yes, it's far better that removing the emmc itself :laugh: I've tried a reflow on a playstation3 years ago, it's a real mess to solder chips back with hotair

Sus_i said:
Ok, thank you.
Yeah, I have the low voltage emmc adapter from exploitee.rs, had it connected to the first generation stick and the first generation firetv.
Yes, it's far better that removing the emmc itself :laugh: I've tried a reflow on a playstation3 years ago, it's a real mess to solder chips back with hotair
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey mate if you have the device can you do me a favor?
i need resistor values for cmd clk and data

oktay50000 said:
i need resistor values for cmd clk and data
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
CLK = 0,0 ohms
DAT = 10,0k ohms
CMD = 10,0k ohms

Bought a Used Tab S, Need Help

Okay yes hi, I just bought a used Tab S from eBay the other day and I'm having a serious issue with it.
So, when I bought it I talked with the seller and he promised that everything was in perfect working order.
But today I got it, and neither the charging port, or the SD card slot work at all.
I tried taking the piece out of the tablet and put it into my old one, and both worked just fine, no problems.
So all I can figure is that maybe it's a problem with the mother board. Except, everything else is running fine, and I looked over the motherboard and everything looks fine as far as I can tell.
The only thing I notice that's different between this mother board and the one from my old tablet, is the connector where you connect the ribbon cable from the sd card slot/charging port, but it's just, under the ribbon, on the beige piece, two of the golden lines on it are still there, but like, there's something different about them.
Could two little microscopic bits like this really cause the whole thing to not function like this? I mean it just seems absurd that such a small thing can do this.
I'll take a picture of the spot if anyone would like to see it.
I'm planning on returning the tablet in a few days for a refund, but if anyone can tell me if there's like a simple fix for this I would be eternally grateful, it's taken me forever to find a tab s I can afford and my old one is constantly locking up so I really need a new one...

ElsaReyes said:
Okay yes hi, I just bought a used Tab S from eBay the other day and I'm having a serious issue with it.
So, when I bought it I talked with the seller and he promised that everything was in perfect working order.
But today I got it, and neither the charging port, or the SD card slot work at all.
I tried taking the piece out of the tablet and put it into my old one, and both worked just fine, no problems.
So all I can figure is that maybe it's a problem with the mother board. Except, everything else is running fine, and I looked over the motherboard and everything looks fine as far as I can tell.
The only thing I notice that's different between this mother board and the one from my old tablet, is the connector where you connect the ribbon cable from the sd card slot/charging port, but it's just, under the ribbon, on the beige piece, two of the golden lines on it are still there, but like, there's something different about them.
Could two little microscopic bits like this really cause the whole thing to not function like this? I mean it just seems absurd that such a small thing can do this.
I'll take a picture of the spot if anyone would like to see it.
I'm planning on returning the tablet in a few days for a refund, but if anyone can tell me if there's like a simple fix for this I would be eternally grateful, it's taken me forever to find a tab s I can afford and my old one is constantly locking up so I really need a new one...
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you have photos? Have you tried cleaning the connectors on the board? test using air pressure or blowing ..

lytoh said:
you have photos? Have you tried cleaning the connectors on the board? test using air pressure or blowing ..
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See at either end something about I guess the pins just looks off. But I'm not sure.

ElsaReyes said:
See at either end something about I guess the pins just looks off. But I'm not sure.
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mmm I'm not an expert but it looks like that connector has been soldered to the plate ... you can see two points of welding at the ends ... surely there you have the problem ..
The two pieces of plastic at the ends seem burned .. The first connector pin seems broken ... and the next 3 moves ..
I can also see something that looks like glue un the board ... can it be? They have manipulated it in a bad way .. I would contact the seller and get the money back ..
Look at the original connector .. your motherboard has been modified.