Okay yes hi, I just bought a used Tab S from eBay the other day and I'm having a serious issue with it.
So, when I bought it I talked with the seller and he promised that everything was in perfect working order.
But today I got it, and neither the charging port, or the SD card slot work at all.
I tried taking the piece out of the tablet and put it into my old one, and both worked just fine, no problems.
So all I can figure is that maybe it's a problem with the mother board. Except, everything else is running fine, and I looked over the motherboard and everything looks fine as far as I can tell.
The only thing I notice that's different between this mother board and the one from my old tablet, is the connector where you connect the ribbon cable from the sd card slot/charging port, but it's just, under the ribbon, on the beige piece, two of the golden lines on it are still there, but like, there's something different about them.
Could two little microscopic bits like this really cause the whole thing to not function like this? I mean it just seems absurd that such a small thing can do this.
I'll take a picture of the spot if anyone would like to see it.
I'm planning on returning the tablet in a few days for a refund, but if anyone can tell me if there's like a simple fix for this I would be eternally grateful, it's taken me forever to find a tab s I can afford and my old one is constantly locking up so I really need a new one...
ElsaReyes said:
Okay yes hi, I just bought a used Tab S from eBay the other day and I'm having a serious issue with it.
So, when I bought it I talked with the seller and he promised that everything was in perfect working order.
But today I got it, and neither the charging port, or the SD card slot work at all.
I tried taking the piece out of the tablet and put it into my old one, and both worked just fine, no problems.
So all I can figure is that maybe it's a problem with the mother board. Except, everything else is running fine, and I looked over the motherboard and everything looks fine as far as I can tell.
The only thing I notice that's different between this mother board and the one from my old tablet, is the connector where you connect the ribbon cable from the sd card slot/charging port, but it's just, under the ribbon, on the beige piece, two of the golden lines on it are still there, but like, there's something different about them.
Could two little microscopic bits like this really cause the whole thing to not function like this? I mean it just seems absurd that such a small thing can do this.
I'll take a picture of the spot if anyone would like to see it.
I'm planning on returning the tablet in a few days for a refund, but if anyone can tell me if there's like a simple fix for this I would be eternally grateful, it's taken me forever to find a tab s I can afford and my old one is constantly locking up so I really need a new one...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you have photos? Have you tried cleaning the connectors on the board? test using air pressure or blowing ..
lytoh said:
you have photos? Have you tried cleaning the connectors on the board? test using air pressure or blowing ..
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See at either end something about I guess the pins just looks off. But I'm not sure.
ElsaReyes said:
See at either end something about I guess the pins just looks off. But I'm not sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
mmm I'm not an expert but it looks like that connector has been soldered to the plate ... you can see two points of welding at the ends ... surely there you have the problem ..
The two pieces of plastic at the ends seem burned .. The first connector pin seems broken ... and the next 3 moves ..
I can also see something that looks like glue un the board ... can it be? They have manipulated it in a bad way .. I would contact the seller and get the money back ..
Look at the original connector .. your motherboard has been modified.
Related
Hi I will try to explain how to open up a Desire, it's easier than you think.
I got one from a friend how had dropped it in a pool and it would not start.
Try to be as ESD proof as possible, before you start.
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If you dropped it into water, remove the battery as fast as possible.
You need 3 tools to open up a Desire: 5x40 torx, philips screwdriver, and a plectrum.
Unscrew all of the four torx in the corners and the two philips. Two of the torx are located under "void" stickers.
Remove the cellular antenna using the plectrum against the edge of the SIM-holder.
Continue with the plectrum around the edges, beware of the small snapps so you don't brake them.
Now it's open.
If you want to bet to the display, you have to remove the three connectors first. Be careful not to break the flexes.
Unscrew the two philips for booth of the PCB.
Carefully lift out the hole package. Be sure not to brake the flex for the side volume keys.
Because this had visited the pool, I opened up the shieldcans to make sure everything looked OK. To do that one had to remove the SIM- and SD reader.
Open them up with the plectrum.
And the same on the other side.
Water had also made some marks on the LCD so I also hade to get the LCD away form the front glass.
Don't miss this connector! You will brake the flex if you don't disconnect this one.
Use the plectrum around the display, carfully, it will come loss eventually.
Don't touch the LCD, it's a hard time to get rid of fingerprints. Clean it with a lens cloth and some compressed air.
Then you do every thing the opposite way and it's soon back together again.
Power it up!
Everything seams to work.
While I had it apart I cleaned all parts and removed as much oxide as possible.
Nice work Mate!
Im sure this will come in handy for afew folks
and good to see its back up and running again as well
Thanks for the post. I really hope I never need it, but if I have to for some reason, at least I know where to look to make things correct.
Absolutley fab guide/tut, mate. Handy to have in times of crisis
Should be added to the Wiki actually. Any mod able to fix?
When the Wiki is back up im sure itll be added
Brilliant guide, nice to see it's working again.
r33z said:
While I had it apart I cleaned all parts and removed as much oxide as possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, 2 questions for you..
Where did you find the most oxide?
what are important areas to clean?
Oh, and a third one.. I find the speaker has become garbeled after my Desire's beer plunge, do you know how I can make it better?
thanks
Dead camera replacement still dead [FIXED]
Thank you so much for this. I had a dead camera - no camera, no flash, no LED, no headphone jack. I tried all the software fixes like rename DCIM directory, factory reset, change SD card, stock ROM etc. but still no joy. I knew it must be a hardware fault so I bought and installed a new camera module ... but still no joy. I then removed the circuit board (your photo 9) and found the long ribbon cable was slightly unplugged under the SD card holder. I plugged it in properly, put the phone back together and all was well. Yay! It must have come adrift when I dropped the phone.
Many thanks, Peter
peterthevicar said:
Thank you so much for this. I had a dead camera - no camera, no flash, no LED, no headphone jack. I tried all the software fixes like rename DCIM directory, factory reset, change SD card, stock ROM etc. but still no joy. I knew it must be a hardware fault so I bought and installed a new camera module ... but still no joy. I then removed the circuit board (your photo 9) and found the long ribbon cable was slightly unplugged under the SD card holder. I plugged it in properly, put the phone back together and all was well. Yay! It must have come adrift when I dropped the phone.
Many thanks, Peter
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And many thanks from me guys. With the photos from r33z and the info about the camera from Peter i fix mine.
Thanx again
Fixed mine too
peterthevicar said:
Thank you so much for this. I had a dead camera - no camera, no flash, no LED, no headphone jack.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you Peter for your troubleshooting efforts and mention of what was wrong. I had dead camera, flash (and LED), and wifi. I didn't try software fixes because it all started after a heavy drop. I don't know exactly what I did to fix it, but I did reseat those three connectors. Thank you r33z for the guide!
Peace,
Greg.
PS: I've just looked at the guide again, and the images aren't loading. e.g. first one loaded directly (URL stripped of http prefix since I'm a new member and not allowed to post links):
lh4.ggpht.com/_k2t8S4X-WRA/TBs4fT6n6RI/AAAAAAAAFLE/lCqINbBDJBs/s800/DSC_8163.JPG
"403. That’s an error.
Your client does not have permission to get URL /_k2t8S4X-WRA/TBs4fT6n6RI/AAAAAAAAFLE/lCqINbBDJBs/s800/DSC_8163.JPG from this server. (Client IP address: xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx)
Rate-limit exceeded That’s all we know."
I broked my screen on me Desire , when my screen will arrive to me , i will use this method
Sent from my HTC Desire using xda premium
hi there,
I had spilled water on the top of my galaxy nexus this morning and it wiped out the ear speaker. so i decided to open it up and eventually after some tinkering around I managed to fix it, however, I hadn't realised when lifting the mainboard that the volume switch was soldered onto it, and ended up breaking the connection. you can see it from the picture below. how can I solder this back? its a very small connection. i cant seem to find any videos or guides on how to solder back connections like this.
any help would be grateful, thanks
everything else with the phone is working fine though, but i lost the ability to go to recovery or bootloader
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Can't be done, you broke 2 of the connections from the ribbon itself.
You'll have to either buy a whole new ribbon, or a whole new board with the ribbon already soldered on.
The picture also seems to indicate the pad being lifted from the other board. If that is indeed the case (feel the area of the board for a depression), your repair just got a lot more expensive - you may need to replace the board too.
Below point may be moot given the damage in question, but the actual soldering is best done with a high power but temperature controlled soldering station like the Weller WES51. You also need lead free solder, fresh tip, very steady hand, and quite probably a third hand (a tool that looks like two posable alligator clips, to hold your work piece).
motopig said:
The picture also seems to indicate the pad being lifted from the other board. If that is indeed the case (feel the area of the board for a depression), your repair just got a lot more expensive - you may need to replace the board too.
Below point may be moot given the damage in question, but the actual soldering is best done with a high power but temperature controlled soldering station like the Weller WES51. You also need lead free solder, fresh tip, very steady hand, and quite probably a third hand (a tool that looks like two posable alligator clips, to hold your work piece).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i assume you mean the pads where the connection was? its ok its just that the soldered bits are abit lifted. the board doesn't seem to have any damage.
I've contacted Samsung about this, i hope they get back to me in time. i can still use the phone though, just cant change volume or get any vibrations lol
IINexusII said:
i assume you mean the pads where the connection was? its ok its just that the soldered bits are abit lifted. the board doesn't seem to have any damage.
I've contacted Samsung about this, i hope they get back to me in time. i can still use the phone though, just cant change volume or get any vibrations lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never said the board need replacement because it isn't working , just that if the copper pad itself was lifted (or worse, torn) from the board, you will never be able to fully fix the connection yourself because you have nothing on the board to complete the circuit with, without going for more drastic measures.
Samsung may very well ask you to send the phone in, then I'm willing to bet that they'll swap the board as well. That is if they don't try to void your warranty.
yeah, so i ended up buying a faulty GN with a broken screen off eBay ill swap my screen with that one and sell mine too as faulty..
sad times, but ill be back
I've looked everywhere and haven't quite found anything quite like the problem I am having so here it is.
The touchscreen is giving some very weird inputs after installing a new LCD (since mine got cracked). This problem was occurring before and I changed the touchscreen glass but still have the same problem. I changed roms as well and did the basic keyboard calibration with no success. Please help! what else can i do? What could be causing this problem?
PROBLEM:
The very top of the screen does not detect touch at all (therefore I can't drag down the notifications bar). The upper middle of the screen registers only up and down drags when started outside the area. It does not register side to side and does not register touches.
HTC Droid Incredible (tried multiple different roms with no success).
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No one? does anyone at least know where I can post this so that i may get answers? like the basic android forums and whatnot?
on top of the lcd there are 2 wire straps, the ground the screen by a screw. when you replaced the screen did you remember to transfer over the the straps as well?
synisterwolf said:
on top of the lcd there are 2 wire straps, the ground the screen by a screw. when you replaced the screen did you remember to transfer over the the straps as well?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i didn't this time, but i put something else in its place (copper wires) but it's still doing the same thing. I can't swipe down the notifications bar and the middle is still having the same problem. There is a screw (one of the two) on the motherboard that I lost, but I don't know how that would make any difference. Thoughts?
leeroyjenks said:
i didn't this time, but i put something else in its place (copper wires) but it's still doing the same thing. I can't swipe down the notifications bar and the middle is still having the same problem. There is a screw (one of the two) on the motherboard that I lost, but I don't know how that would make any difference. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The motherboard screws don't matter as much. It might be a bad digitizer or the coper isn't conductive enough. Make sure the flat wire is in all the way and there are no kinks.
Cheated on my sexy assistant with a HTC ReZound.
Hmmm...I've repaired about 25 Droid incredibles..never had this problem. I'm thinkin your digitizer is bad or when you replaced the lcd that maybe some adhesive is touching the glass underneath? If I were you I would just order a new digtitizer and give that a shot. Since your lcd is new. If even a tiny bit of the digitizer got cracked that will happen or if you have damage to the ribbon cable that will happen as well. Which would then again me solved by a new digitizer. Let me know how that goes.
Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2
Similar issue
Was there any resolution to this issue?
I am attempting to replace a severely cracked digitizer (that otherwise works perfectly - responding to touch everywhere) with a replacement digitizer and front housing part purchased from repairsuniverse. They've been gracious enough to exchange their product twice but all three replacements they've provided have identical behavior to the original poster. I'd be able to believe it were a hardware issue with the phone/motherboard IF the cracked digitizer didn't work in a similar way, but it's fine every time I reinstall it, which pretty much rules that scenario out.
I've been scouring threads for the better part of the day, but have been unable to find one that provides a solution.
pwii said:
Was there any resolution to this issue?
I am attempting to replace a severely cracked digitizer (that otherwise works perfectly - responding to touch everywhere) with a replacement digitizer and front housing part purchased from repairsuniverse. They've been gracious enough to exchange their product twice but all three replacements they've provided have identical behavior to the original poster. I'd be able to believe it were a hardware issue with the phone/motherboard IF the cracked digitizer didn't work in a similar way, but it's fine every time I reinstall it, which pretty much rules that scenario out.
I've been scouring threads for the better part of the day, but have been unable to find one that provides a solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it was such a long time ago. from what I remember it was just a bad digitizer. I suggest just returning the item and buying it from a different company. That phone, which wasn't even mine, I replaced the digitizer more than once and it only happened that one time.
Hope it helps
Hello guys. I'm currently trying to fix a friends HOX that fell and now the screen doesn't always display image although we can see it always lighting up (it turns on but stays black) .
If I press hardly the HOX's area in red while turning it ON, it works fine. I'm assuming this could be some broken welding points but would like your opinion.
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I'm thinking of heating the area with a heat gun, but I'm afraid I'll kill the rest of the phone... what do you think?
Also, after disassembling the phone, the vibration stopped working and I've checked every flat cable and every connector I could find...no ideas to fix this one since it was working before I cracked the phone open.
Any comments are greatly appreciated.
Tks
Hi
casca said:
Hello guys. I'm currently trying to fix a friends HOX that fell and now the screen doesn't always display image although we can see it always lighting up (it turns on but stays black) .
If I press hardly the HOX's area in red while turning it ON, it works fine. I'm assuming this could be some broken welding points but would like your opinion.
I'm thinking of heating the area with a heat gun, but I'm afraid I'll kill the rest of the phone... what do you think?
Also, after disassembling the phone, the vibration stopped working and I've checked every flat cable and every connector I could find...no ideas to fix this one since it was working before I cracked the phone open.
Any comments are greatly appreciated.
Tks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possibly a chip has become partly detached from the solder ball grid array due to the shock of the fall. You will not be able to repair this by heating, even if you could reach the melting point of the solder.
The manufacturer would repair by replacing the circuit board and the existing one would be considered unserviceable.
Regards
Phil
So in resume, my friend has a HOX for spare parts... damn...
Couldn't you pack the inside of the housing at the point where you need to apply pressure? Using a piece of card or something. Hardly ideal but would make it functional again
That has been my first attempt, and it's better but still, not enough.
I'm going to disassemble it for the tenth time in a final effort...
tks for the tip though!
So, I've just realized the back metal plate comes out nicely and I think I've found the problem for the GPU issue... that small component on the red area has a broken piece lol (WTF!)
I have applied pressure directly on top of it and I think it will be usable like this, but it now needs a bit of daily use to check if I'm right or wrong.
Can anyone identify what component type is that?
Also, unfortunately (and I don't have a clue how this has happened), the vibration stopped working after opening the phone on the first time, any one has any ideas of what to look for? I don't see any flex cable cut or any other damaged parts...
Tks guys.
Problem solved, some back pressure on the broken piece and the hox is good to go.
The only thing still not working is the vibration...
Sent from my HTC One X using xda app-developers app
It seems the body of the phone is so thick at the bottom towards the front, that the usb connector sits way too deep, because of that some micro usb connectors can't reach all the way through to properly lock in. The cable that came with the phone has such thick plastic around the micro usb connector that when pulled a little sideways it acts like a crowbar, pulling the plug out the connector, all it needs a slight pull to the side and the cable disconnects.
Looking at the hole (screen is up) it seems the bottom edge of the metal casing of the connector is almost at the edge of the plastic:
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however top edge is about 1/8" away from the edge:
That 1/8" of plastic is what stands between the connector and cable.
I just checked two other phones I have and their metal casing is at most 1/16" away from the edge of plastic.
Cable from HTC One X that has much slimmer plastic at the connector works almost perfectly, but it still not as secure as on other phones though.
Anyone experiencing same issues? or it's my phone defective?
My advice to u is if it wiggles u might want to talk to samsung..wiggling can cause damage to the motherboard due to disconnection and conection of power source ...goodluck
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using xda premium
Mine too but I have the sprint version. When to the store to complain but they couldn't help. I didn't have this issue with my sprint galaxy 2.
Sent from my SPH-L900 using xda app-developers app
I've had the same problem on my International Note II since day one. Rather annoying. I came from the SI so I thought it was due to the usb being on the bottom instead of the top.
Well if u guys are just "dealing with it" dont move the cable at all,,, I know somtimes it happens ..maybe dont charge it in the car..where its more plausible to get moved
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using xda premium
twanskys204 said:
Well if u guys are just "dealing with it" dont move the cable at all,,, I know somtimes it happens ..maybe dont charge it in the car..where its more plausible to get moved
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The purpose of this topic is not seek for a solution, but rather gather information if more people have the same issue, if it's a design flaw or defective selected units.
The wiggling is inside the connector, not the connector itself.
[QUOTE[email protected];35857862]The purpose of this topic is not seek for a solution, but rather gather information if more people have the same issue, if it's a design flaw or defective selected units.
The wiggling is inside the connector, not the connector itself.[/QUOTE]
Well we clearly know its not a design flaw, s3 has the same exact plug...plz gather that im simply heeding a warning to not move the cable thank u
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using xda premium
This has been discussed before on another thread. It is a widely known issue. The thread mostly concerned AT&T Note IIs, but it appears it's on pretty much every single variant. Last I checked (and it's been a while) there was no solution other than being lucky enough to get your phone replaced for free.
I am on my second Note II (i-317) and I had this very issue on my first device, albeit, the problem seemed to have been a lot worse on my first phone. It's not so bad on this one. Even the Best Buy rep who I've been dealing with for a while, mentioned the issue to ME, when I went in to complain about my terrible battery life on my original Note. He said he was having the same issues with his Note II. He said it's almost like Samsung built the stock charger end too small. He said he didn't think it was a design defect of the phone, itself, because when he uses other non-stock chargers they fit perfectly.
same here.. at first i thought someone unplug my charger but then it's happening most of the time.. i can't think of any solution so i'm just dealing with it..
Mine came with Defective cable as well.
For the fix I trimmed some plastic sleeve off so it slid in further gets bite now
I also purchased kindle replacement cable from amazon that fits much snugger -
http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Kindle-Micro-Cable-Keyboard/dp/B006BGZJJ4/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top