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Samsung Tab S 8.4, bought about 3 months ago in uk from john lewis.
I had kitkat and rooted to be able to disable bloat etc to try and increase the battery life. Battery was still draining much faster than other devices, but in accordande to what a lot of people were reporting. Got used to charging it up every day.
So I got the official lollipop update, using kies, and left as stock was seeing same ballpark battery draining. Before I could get around to modifying the lollipop build the tablet started restarting. At first this was when the battery level would drop below 50% but quickly this turned into repeating boot loops. I was careful to try and be gentle with it in case the battery connection was loose, but the boot loops got quicker. In the end it would not stay on.
Here is how I fixed it. Tried factory reset, no good. But at least knew it wasnt software as had default lollipop image, plus it worked find when connected to the charger. So I didint have time to send it in to samsung for repair as due to travel, so used you tube help to open the cover and simply removed and disconnected the battery, then replaced it. Note that the battery is lightly glued in, so needs some light force to peel it out of the cavity - thats not shown on you tube.
Anyway, checked it didnt boot loop, and it was stable, so charged it up fully. Guess what? I have a much much slower draining battery now. I have manually reloaded my apps from play store (not a kies restore) and performance is the same ie the slower than original battery drain.
I don't know if they modified something between lollipop and kitkat that needed to see a hard reset to trigger or if its something peculiar to the battery requiring to be disconnected independent of the operating system, but just wanted to share and report here as this forum has been so helpful to me.
I am in UK (for lollipop version)
Refitting the battery might make the tablet think it is getting an new battery so it is forced to do an re-calibrate.
Yesterday a owner said when he took is S to a Samsung service centre, he was told the battery connectors were fault, and they replaced it with a more heavy duty version.
Also he was told upgrading to lollipop can cause problems, though i don't see how that is possible.
John.
Tinderbox (UK) said:
Refitting the battery might make the tablet think it is getting an new battery so it is forced to do an re-calibrate.
Yesterday a owner said when he took is S to a Samsung service centre, he was told the battery connectors were fault, and they replaced it with a more heavy duty version.
Also he was told upgrading to lollipop can cause problems, though i don't see how that is possible.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Makes sense on battery recalibration from disconnect, but would that affect the lower drainage rate? Maybe lollipop is better optimized for the 8.4?
I just now turned on power saving, where it was on before with kitkat. Still much more time on standard lollipop than kitkat here. Not going to bother debloating it...
Yesterday and today, owners of the 8.4" have reported problems with the battery connector, on repair Samsung replaces the original with an more heavy duty version, some people recommend soldering the battery directly to the motherboard, (not me)
John.
Tinderbox (UK) said:
Yesterday and today, owners of the 8.4" have reported problems with the battery connector, on repair Samsung replaces the original with an more heavy duty version, some people recommend soldering the battery directly to the motherboard, (not me)
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing is more heavy duty battery connector, they all are the same. Repair center just do a re solder job as this battery connector is prone to crack in most of Samsung tablets.
Read all Samsung tablets, different models and sizes, they all have the same problem but most average users are not able to see it, they need microscope at least at 20X to 40X to see the cracks. Magnified glass at 10X won't be able to see this kind of crack of solder joints.
Well i suppose the owner was lied too by Samsung, as he says in the link below that they installed an thicker connector.
She confirmed that there is indeed a problem for tab S battery connector that comes out of the box when you purchase tab S. The connector is too thin and is very easy to fail even from slightly touching the screen. So she took my tab s for an hour, replaced the battery connector with a new one which she claimed to be thicker, and reinstalled the May lollipop update. Since then I have never had any problem, and my battery performance is very satisfying.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=61977890&postcount=509
John.
Beut said:
Nothing is more heavy duty battery connector, they all are the same. Repair center just do a re solder job as this battery connector is prone to crack in most of Samsung tablets.
Read all Samsung tablets, different models and sizes, they all have the same problem but most average users are not able to see it, they need microscope at least at 20X to 40X to see the cracks. Magnified glass at 10X won't be able to see this kind of crack of solder joints.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
5310 said:
Here is how I fixed it. Tried factory reset, no good. But at least knew it wasnt software as had default lollipop image, plus it worked find when connected to the charger. So I didint have time to send it in to samsung for repair as due to travel, so used you tube help to open the cover and simply removed and disconnected the battery, then replaced it. Note that the battery is lightly glued in, so needs some light force to peel it out of the cavity - thats not shown on you tube.
Anyway, checked it didnt boot loop, and it was stable, so charged it up fully. Guess what? I have a much much slower draining battery now. I have manually reloaded my apps from play store (not a kies restore) and performance is the same ie the slower than original battery drain.
I am in UK (for lollipop version)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A permanent fix : re solder the battery connector.
A temporary fix : put a thick piece of paper on top of the battery connector, secure it with a tape. A direct pressure on the back cover will temporary close the gaps of cracked solders. This temporary fix only works with a not badly cracked battery connector. A badly cracked one is the connector that you can lift it off the main board easily or tap hard on the back cover, your tablet shuts down immediately.
I tend to agree, it's unlikely they did anything but resolder. If it's happened on previous devices why would they still be using the same connector if they had a beefed up version?
In any case the connector is non mobile so it makes no difference as long as its securely soldered it should be fine.
There are much flimsier components and connectors in devices nowadays that don't give issue.
The connector to the circuit board looked beefy enough and it didn't feel loose in any way....its the female socket soldered onto the circuit board that you all are describing?
I'll keep an eye out of course, but so far same great performance, much better than when out of the box new
5310 said:
The connector to the circuit board looked beefy enough and it didn't feel loose in any way....its the female socket soldered onto the circuit board that you all are describing?
I'll keep an eye out of course, but so far same great performance, much better than when out of the box new
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is the connector I'm talking about, not exactly, but common in Samsung tablets. Some look perfect from the top but it moves slightly if pushing. I'm already to re solder so I'm not afraid to push or lift it from main board to test its solder joints. Most of erratically behaviors related to power such as shut down, auto restart, battery capacity fluctuation, quick discharge, I know most come from this cracked connector and successful to fix the problem by re solder it.
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Most of this problem is seen in Samsung tablets which have battery connector at the center of the tablet, the bigger the tablet, the more likely it has this problem like 10 inches or bigger. Samsung tablets are so simple in assembly, like the Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 inches, the main board has only 3 screws to hold it to the frame. If putting a finger on the battery connector, you can feel it move up and down easily on top of the LCD.
I have the same issue, this red circled chip keeps on heating, even when I turn it off. I suspect this might have something to do with my battery draining... can anyone help?
Imgur.com/3NLqmh5
How fast is your battery draining when your tablet is in sleep mode overnight.
John.
ozaq1 said:
I have the same issue, this red circled chip keeps on heating, even when I turn it off. I suspect this might have something to do with my battery draining... can anyone help?
Imgur.com/3NLqmh5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tinderbox (UK) said:
How fast is your battery draining when your tablet is in sleep mode overnight.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Measured mulltiple ttimes. 5% approx. Very consistent drain. Even when shut off. (Completely off)
Drain only stops when i remove battery from mobo.
Your battery should take months to become empty when your tablet is completely turned off, Sorry but It sound like you have a fault on your motherboard.
John.
ozaq1 said:
Measured mulltiple ttimes. 5% approx. Very consistent drain. Even when shut off. (Completely off)
Drain only stops when i remove battery from mobo.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahahah. Fml.
Maybe its a problem with the battery connector?
More diagnostic info: once i disconnect the battery from the motherboard, and reconnect, the tablet will not turn on until i plug in the wall charger. Once i plug it in, the tablet turns on fine.
Did you have a look at the circled chip? Any idea what that is?
---------- Post added at 09:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:11 PM ----------
Tinderbox (UK) said:
Your battery should take months to become empty when your tablet is completely turned off, Sorry but It sound like you have a fault on your motherboard.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahahah. Fml.*
Maybe its a problem with the battery connector?
More diagnostic info: once i disconnect the battery from the motherboard, and reconnect, the tablet will not turn on until i plug in the wall charger. Once i plug it in, the tablet turns on fine.
Did you have a look at the circled chip? Any idea what that is?
I google for any tear-downs of Samsung tablets, but none of them identify the shielded component you circled, but as it`s so close to the battery connector it could be a power management chip, but that is a guess.
John.
ozaq1 said:
Hahahah. Fml.
Maybe its a problem with the battery connector?
More diagnostic info: once i disconnect the battery from the motherboard, and reconnect, the tablet will not turn on until i plug in the wall charger. Once i plug it in, the tablet turns on fine.
Did you have a look at the circled chip? Any idea what that is?
---------- Post added at 09:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:11 PM ----------
Hahahah. Fml.*
Maybe its a problem with the battery connector?
More diagnostic info: once i disconnect the battery from the motherboard, and reconnect, the tablet will not turn on until i plug in the wall charger. Once i plug it in, the tablet turns on fine.
Did you have a look at the circled chip? Any idea what that is?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------
To rule out the battery connector you could have the battery soldered direct to the motherboard.
John.
Tinderbox (UK) said:
I google for any tear-downs of Samsung tablets, but none of them identify the shielded component you circled, but as it`s so close to the battery connector it could be a power management chip, but that is a guess.
John.
---------- Post added at 10:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------
To rule out the battery connector you could have the battery soldered direct to the motherboard.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, ill try to have a new connector soldered. Appreciate you trying to help.
But you saying your tablet will not boot without the USB power adapter connected, indicates a power problem, likely a battery connection or that chip that you said was warm even when the tablet is turned off.
All you can do is start with the easiest to fix, which is the battery connector.
John
ozaq1 said:
Thanks, ill try to have a new connector soldered. Appreciate you trying to help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should do one by one to solve a problem with many unknowns: battery connector, battery, or main board.
The first priority is to re solder the battery connector to see any improvement. You will confuse yourselves and others when trying to figure out many things at the same time. The key in troubleshooting is elimination method: solve each unknown one at a time. You cannot find any component of main board on the market, don't think about new battery connector because you'll never find one, but new one is not necessary as re solder is sufficient to solve battery quick discharge problem.
I was the one who recommended to solder tha battery directly to the board. I was having issues with kitkat when i bought my tab last year. Battery drains so much that it will shut itself off. But when you reboot. It will go back to at least 40%. Resetting the battery by unplugging-plugging the battery to the board seems to resolve the issue that i got bored doing it thats why i slder the battery terminals to the board. after upgrading to lollipop. I was able to drain use my phone up to 1%. Battery drain overnight in idle is 1-2%. Im a heavy user, and it lasts me 1 and a half days
Battery soldering is not for the faint hearted. I only recommend it to those who knew what they're doing as those terminals are so small that one mistake could short your board and fry it instantly
Hi guys, my OnePlus 3's battery indicator is stuck on 50%. I think I must have broken the temperature sensor on it when I replaced the screen. The reason I think that is because in TWRP, the CPU temperature reads something like 1648375974799 degrees. I think because the phone thinks my its temperature is too high, so it won't charge my battery. When I unplugged my phone, it will run for a minute and it would run out of battery.
The funny thing is, I've just replaced the battery. When I switched it on, it read 90% and a few seconds later, it went back to 50% again. I just wiped my whole phone and it still reads 50% in TWRP.
I've tried looking at the parts list to see where the temperature sensor is but I couldn't find it. Is it on the mainboard or the sub board on the bottom of the phone?
Cheers!
I've had similar issues with the Nexus 5 not charging, which was caused by a fake battery (temperature sensor was always reading -30).
Given you've just replaced the battery, it might be the same case. I would first try restoring the original battery, just to rule the new battery out.
morphvale said:
I've had similar issues with the Nexus 5 not charging, which was caused by a fake battery (temperature sensor was always reading -30).
Given you've just replaced the battery, it might be the same case. I would first try restoring the original battery, just to rule the new battery out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there, thanks for the reply.
My original battery had this problem, so I thought I would be able to fix it by replacing the battery which was not the case. So I'm pretty convinced that I messed up the temperature sensor. Was looking for a way to disable or spoof the temperature sensor, or replacing the component instead of the main logic board which could be quite costly.
I'm having the same problem, I was told it is from damaging a super small capacitor that's really easy to knock off. Located right beside the battery connection plug on the main board. only problem is I can't find what the cap size is, to try and replace it. I located the damaged cap no problem and mine is diffently damaged, cracked right in the middle, leading me to believe the info about it being the problem was correct, but the article never gave the replacement info. Anyone possibly know the info for the cap located right beside the battery plug under the screen connection, bottom right corner on the one plus 3 main board?
There are 3 possible solutions for this issue.
1: replace battery.
2: change the ROM for one that changes the Kernel for a version without this temperature protection.
3: fix or replace the main board.
To fix the main board you need to check 2 things on it.
On the left side of the battery connector (under a double sided glue tape foam), there are some SMD. The lowest two are related with this problem. I fix my board resoldering the one on the right (nearest to the connector). Be aware that the SMD is small and when are desoldered, it gets sticked on the double sided glue tape foam. I took a picture of it, but i don't know how to insert here.
Good evening,
Since a short time I have problems with my Tab S (10.5 LTE)
The display is now flickering so hard that the tablet can hardly be operated.
Initially, it was only after starting, but now it's getting worse.
Today I unplugged the connector to the battery and connected it again, just like the display flat cable, without change ...
Here I attached a video that shows the problem: https://www.android-hilfe.de/attachments/20180725_231014-mp4.648541
What could it be? The battery that makes the bend after 4 years or something else like the display cable or even the display itself? The battery for 20-30 € I wanted to change anyway, even if the current still holds pretty well. Could not explain to me why the flickering should come from a battery.
What do you think? Who had the same problem and could solve it?
Thanks and regards
Hi, I've faced similar problems.
We talked about it here :
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=76242206&postcount=749
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=76247114&postcount=754
Sadly, you may not fix it.
Hope this helps.
I was having this problem as well. I just reseated the battery in the device (power connector) and it seems to have gotten better.
j1gga84 said:
Good evening,
Since a short time I have problems with my Tab S (10.5 LTE)
The display is now flickering so hard that the tablet can hardly be operated.
Initially, it was only after starting, but now it's getting worse.
Today I unplugged the connector to the battery and connected it again, just like the display flat cable, without change ...
Here I attached a video that shows the problem: https://www.android-hilfe.de/attachments/20180725_231014-mp4.648541
What could it be? The battery that makes the bend after 4 years or something else like the display cable or even the display itself? The battery for 20-30 € I wanted to change anyway, even if the current still holds pretty well. Could not explain to me why the flickering should come from a battery.
What do you think? Who had the same problem and could solve it?
Thanks and regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually I'm having the same problem but on my Tab S2. It happens once the battery depletes below 30%. I believe the problem is down to the battery depleting so much that it can't power the display and/or higher clock speeds. The solution is definitely to replace the battery.
Thanks for the information.
I did that, replaced the battery and also the flex cable for the display but no success, the problem still persists
It seems that my mainboard is broken somehow or the touchscreen and the Tab S is not repairable anymore..
I will maybe buy an used one again or wait for the Tab S4
Regards
Sent from my SM-G960F with Tapatalk
M9x3mos said:
I was having this problem as well. I just reseated the battery in the device (power connector) and it seems to have gotten better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same.
Sadly my SM-T800 screen started having this flicker problem. Nothing helps. The battery connector "looks good", but then I don't have the eyesight to see what's really going on. The logic board on the T800 has a very unfortunate packaging where the battery connector is next to a heatsink. I certainly couldn't resolder it myself even if I tried. I guess this is the end of road for my Tab S.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Yv0AAOSw6eRcWaTL/s-l1600.jpg
Hey all, I have had my Galaxy Note 10 for almost a year, and the other day I accidentally dropped it and ever since then I have been getting the message that my phone temperature is too low and that charging would resume when my phone returned to a normal temperature.
So I did some research and found that my phone's temperature sensor is broken and that I would need to get the wireless charging coil replaced as that is where the sensor is located. I also saw that it was a cheap repair and would be covered by warranty. Unfortunately because of the root it would not be covered by warranty and was actually very expensive as the part needed to be imported.
I ran a few tests and apparently my phone is at minus 30 degrees Celsius. When I got a report sensor, it says that it isn't even there. Clearly the sensor is broken. (Look at attached URLs for screenshots)
The strange thing is though, that I can still use my phone whilst it is plugged in. So obviously it can still use power, but not store it in the battery. Because it can still use power and since it is rooted, surely there is a way that I can change the minimum temperature at which the phone can charge? Or delete the piece of software/file that gives jt any limit at all?So I wanted to ask, since my phone is rooted, surely there must be a way I can "override" the error and charge my phone regardless.
So I looked for ways to charge my phone regardless and came across thermal throttling, which I know is dangerous, but surely because my phone isn't actually "low temperature" if it was well managed, it wouldn't be too unsafe? And would thermal throttling even work as I know that it helps to run your phone at HIGH temperatures, but what about low ones?
So the last thing I wanted to say was that with the phone being rooted, is there some app that can allow me to ignore this warning (override it) as there is obviously a file that prevents charging when the temperature is low. Could this file be altered/deleted, or could the while thing just be ignored. Or would thermal throttling work?
Please leave some feedback, anything is appreciated.
Also please link at the attached URLs for screenshots.
https:// we.tl/t-2EfEw150Y9
If that's the only temp sensor for charging you should have it as it won't shut it down if it gets too hot.
A Li meltdown isn't pretty.
Is the bad sensor in the battery???
If so simply replacing the battery might fix the issue
What is the problem?
blackhawk said:
If that's the only temp sensor for charging you should have it as it won't shut it down if it gets too hot.
A Li meltdown isn't pretty.
Is the bad sensor in the battery???
If so simply replacing the battery might fix the issue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The repair centre that I took this phone to said that the MOTHERBOARD was broken. I think they were mistaken as this is not a problem caused by broken motherboard. Research says the sensor is in the Wireless Charging Coil so I might try fix this. but then what is it about the battery? Which part is broken?
And in the meantime is their any way to override this message with a rooted phone (my original question)
It a thermistor on the wireless charging module or a bad connection going to it. A broken multilayered mobo solder trace can be repaired if it's just one trace and it's beginning/end point isn't under a flat pack.
https://youtu.be/b0__poRAZ94
Elaborate
blackhawk said:
It a thermistor on the wireless charging module or a bad connection going to it. A broken multilayered mobo solder trace can be repaired if it's just one trace and it's beginning/end point isn't under a flat pack.
So are you saying that either the connection (on the wireless charging COIL) from the coil to the battery is broken, or the connection port on the battery might be broken? Is it definitely NOT a motherboard issue?
If so does the wireless charging coil/entire phone battery need replacing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't see a listing under sensors for a internal batter sensor... it appears to be external.
I didn't tear it down.
The sensor or connector issue is more likely but not guaranteed.
You could take an ohmmeter to the sensor to check if it's the culprit. It appears to be on the charging coil assembly, right?
If so a cheap fix.
Sensor
Atie578 said:
blackhawk said:
It a thermistor on the wireless charging module or a bad connection going to it. A broken multilayered mobo solder trace can be repaired if it's just one trace and it's beginning/end point isn't under a flat pack.
So are you saying that either the connection (on the wireless charging COIL) from the coil to the battery is broken, or the connection port on the battery might be broken? Is it definitely NOT a motherboard issue?
If so does the wireless charging coil/entire phone battery need replacing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is only one sensor and its attached to the wireless charging coil, that was the case with the s7 edge back in the day. I see no reason why that would be different now. Its purpose is to monitor the battery and coil temps.
Replacing the wireless charging coil should fix it. You should be able to order one for pretty cheap. its could also just be a loose connection. If your warrenty is void then you might as well open it up (if you have the tools and skill) to confirm the wireless charging connector is seated properly into the motherboard. (since you dropped it, its likely its just come loose)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
vitselvarajah said:
Atie578 said:
There is only one sensor and its attached to the wireless charging coil, that was the case with the s7 edge back in the day. I see no reason why that would be different now. Its purpose is to monitor the battery and coil temps.
Replacing the wireless charging coil should fix it. You should be able to order one for pretty cheap. its could also just be a loose connection. If your warrenty is void then you might as well open it up (if you have the tools and skill) to confirm the wireless charging connector is seated properly into the motherboard. (since you dropped it, its likely its just come loose)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This could be true if the service tech was mistaken. All the OP knows for sure is the chipset isn't getting the temp data.
A good repair center -maybe- could do mobo level repairs. Sammy certainly could.
Remember no repairman likes an open box special.
The OP can try replacing the coil but maybe no better off if it needs a mobo. In the back of my mind I still wonder if the battery pack has a temp sensor the phone is using as well. I see no indication of that but it seems like a logical place for it especially given Samsung's history of exploding batteries.
If the OP goes for a battery replacement there's much more risk of damage involved.
Tough call.
Note: A high G impact can even break internal IC connections. A 3 foot drop onto concrete can generate sufficient G loading to do this. So there's that...
A good case spreads the G force loading over a greater timeframe and lessens it by absorbing some of the energy as well transforming it to heat.
These are heavy, expensive phones with very little impact protection. Get a good case like the Bolt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
blackhawk said:
If that's the only temp sensor for charging you should have it as it won't shut it down if it gets too hot.
A Li meltdown isn't pretty.
Is the bad sensor in the battery???
If so simply replacing the battery might fix the issue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe the sensor is on the wireless charging coil
Guys had the issue back on the s8 too
TheMadScientist said:
I believe the sensor is on the wireless charging coil
Guys had the issue back on the s8 too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It be a happy ending if so...
and not the first time a repair tech was wrong.
Maybe the OP could try a better repair shop if they don't feel up to using a heat gun and popping off the back panel. This is one of the easiest repairs for these phones but still requires considerable care to do. Depends on the OP's skill level and having the minimum tools required.
blackhawk said:
It be a happy ending if so...
and not the first time a repair tech was wrong.
Maybe the OP could try a better repair shop if they don't feel up to using a heat gun and popping off the back panel. This is one of the easiest repairs for these phones but still requires considerable care to do. Depends on the OP's skill level and having the minimum tools required.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well said
Don't know if this will help but I have the same problem with my Note 10+. Mine has a cracked back cover and the faulty temp sensor issue seems to emanate from this because as soon as I slapped on a back cover, the issue resolved itself. I'll replace the back cover eventually but it seems the loose panel might be the issue.
Good luck.
Ritpide said:
Don't know if this will help but I have the same problem with my Note 10+. Mine has a cracked back cover and the faulty temp sensor issue seems to emanate from this because as soon as I slapped on a back cover, the issue resolved itself. I'll replace the back cover eventually but it seems the loose panel might be the issue.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Welcome to XDA
There's a temp sensor on the wireless charging coil assembly I believe. There are a bunch of ribbon cables as well, one could be loose or damaged.
Rear covers are cheap, replace it before the phone gets severely damaged. Get a rear cover seal too. Water kills phones.
Always keep the N10+ cased or it will get damaged. The Zizo Bolt is cheap, provides excellent drop protection and makes the N10+ easier to use.
I recently changed the battery for my 5-year-old OP3 with an OEM version. The OEM battery was marginally smaller than the original battery, leaving a tiny gap at the bottom in the phone's battery cavity. It worked fine for a few weeks, then I noticed it would have random shutdowns with the slightest of drops. I tried to fix the problem by (1) putting adhesive tape on the battery so that it wouldn't move; (2) filled the gap at the bottom with a roll of electrical tape to further stop any possible movement.; (3) taped the battery connector so that it wouldn't be dislodged from the socket.
None of these worked. You can see from this video how the phone will shut off with the slightest of drops:
https://imgur.com/a/ach7OCZ
It seems more likely to shut off when the mild impact is on the left side of the phone.
Tired of having to handle my phone like it was an egg, I reinstalled the original battery and the problems were gone. But now I'm left with a fast-draining battery that will only get worse.
Any idea what else I can do?
I can't find the original battery, and this was actually my second OEM battery purchase (the first was marginally too big to fit into the cavity), so I'm hesitant to try buying another one.
dltk said:
I recently changed the battery for my 5-year-old OP3 with an OEM version. The OEM battery was marginally smaller than the original battery, leaving a tiny gap at the bottom in the phone's battery cavity. It worked fine for a few weeks, then I noticed it would have random shutdowns with the slightest of drops. I tried to fix the problem by (1) putting adhesive tape on the battery so that it wouldn't move; (2) filled the gap at the bottom with a roll of electrical tape to further stop any possible movement.; (3) taped the battery connector so that it wouldn't be dislodged from the socket.
None of these worked. You can see from this video how the phone will shut off with the slightest of drops:
https://imgur.com/a/ach7OCZ
It seems more likely to shut off when the mild impact is on the left side of the phone.
Tired of having to handle my phone like it was an egg, I reinstalled the original battery and the problems were gone. But now I'm left with a fast-draining battery that will only get worse.
Any idea what else I can do?
I can't find the original battery, and this was actually my second OEM battery purchase (the first was marginally too big to fit into the cavity), so I'm hesitant to try buying another one.
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Don't you have OnePlus service centres? The original battery should be available with them. I replaced mine from the service centre with no issues.
Anything bought outside is a hit or miss.
TNSMANI said:
Don't you have OnePlus service centres? The original battery should be available with them. I replaced mine from the service centre with no issues.
Anything bought outside is a hit or miss.
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The ones where I'm located don't have batteries for anything prior to OP6
dltk said:
The ones where I'm located don't have batteries for anything prior to OP6
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Buy a op3 battery from ifixit. The batteries are on par with manufactuer. The shutting off issue is caused by a loose plug from the battery.