Develop Bugs

Tab heating up and battery drain

Hi Friends,
I took over a tab 8.0 Lte from my dad but there seems to be a big problem with it. The tab keeps heating up even in idle and battery drain is fast and constant. From full to 0, the graph is a constant downslope going flat in about 3hrs. This happens even after I hard resetted it. I open up the back and found the part that is heating up. I am starting to think that the motherboard is damaged rather than the battery need a change. The metal part is HOT. I cant touch it for more than 2 sec. Even in idle.
I attached the part in the pic, hopefully someone can help me to identify the problem. Thanks lots in advance!!

scpion said:
Hi Friends,
I took over a tab 8.0 Lte from my dad but there seems to be a big problem with it. The tab keeps heating up even in idle and battery drain is fast and constant. From full to 0, the graph is a constant downslope going flat in about 3hrs. This happens even after I hard resetted it. I open up the back and found the part that is heating up. I am starting to think that the motherboard is damaged rather than the battery need a change. The metal part is HOT. I cant touch it for more than 2 sec. Even in idle.
I attached the part in the pic, hopefully someone can help me to identify the problem. Thanks lots in advance!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems you open the rear cover the wrong way as it still have the frame cover around the back. It should open from the front.
You don't tell exactly model , I'm not sure what it is but most of this problem is from cracked battery connector. Re solder the black battery connector will fix it.
This is the proper way to open the rear, do like you did will damage the rear cover, it won't snap back as some plastic locking tabs are broken.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_I2uLqRghAg
This is the black battery connector which need to be re soldered

Ya I opened from the back.. Yes.. Realised some of the locking tabs are broken. :/ took the instructions from ifixit.. The connector looks, feel perfectly fine though..

scpion said:
Ya I opened from the back.. Yes.. Realised some of the locking tabs are broken. :/ took the instructions from ifixit.. The connector looks, feel perfectly fine though..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Trust me it looks fine with bare eyes but not under microscope. Re solder the battery connector will fix the quick discharge, overheating. It takes only under 5 minutes to get it done, this problem is common in Samsung tablets.

Okie.... I give it a try. My last soldering experience was like 15yrs ago....

I just opened up the tab again and have a look at the connector.. It's so freaking tiny! How on earth is someone able to do it?..? I think if I were to do it, I would solder at least 3 pins together in one shot.......

You need magnified glass and small tip iron to do the rework,
Otherwise you will short it

Permernent fix of reboot loop issue caused by battery

I saw this on Chinese forum and it is weird that nobody mention it here
For those battery that cause boot looping problem there's a way to fix it.
First, remove the battery cap
You'll see the metal in the red circle was connected by a conductive glue something like that
i. imgur. com/2Lt1WdE. jpg
(well the forum says I'm new so I can't post link, it will be thankful if there's anyone who can paste this on the reply)
The problem causing looping was because it gets old can the resistance goes up and so affect the battery when it needs to drain lot of power.
Second, use knife or what everto separate the metal plate on the ic board and battery(cut the conductive glue), then remove the conductive glue on both side of the metal plate(ic board and batter) like the picture shown
i. imgur. com/8oPYGja .jpg
(Same reason as above)
Three, solder them together with soldering iron and replace the battery cover back, done.
Now you saved a battery.
Well, I can't find a button for me to attach the photo I took for explanation....

its work
I tried this method before see this post.
but I connected the battery's - directly with battery.
now I follow this method and it's work
thanks

I just ordered a new battery from LG for $15.

JMak00 said:
I just ordered a new battery from LG for $15.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those batteries are still working well, just the glue part gets old and not functioning well.

Did this fix a few days ago, but i soldered the metal to the upper contact point instead of the lower one. Works good since then. I also bought a new battery that is migth be faulty (always showing 25.0-25.8 c° only, does somebody know why?)

beninho97 said:
Did this fix a few days ago, but i soldered the metal to the upper contact point instead of the lower one. Works good since then. I also bought a new battery that is migth be faulty (always showing 25.0-25.8 c° only, does somebody know why?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought some unofficial manufactured G2 battery and found it has same phenomenon as yours.
I think it's just because of diffreent ic in the battery.

sniperx1211 said:
I saw this on Chinese forum and it is weird that nobody mention it here
For those battery that cause boot looping problem there's a way to fix it.
First, remove the battery cap
You'll see the metal in the red circle was connected by a conductive glue something like that
i. imgur. com/2Lt1WdE. jpg
(well the forum says I'm new so I can't post link, it will be thankful if there's anyone who can paste this on the reply)
The problem causing looping was because it gets old can the resistance goes up and so affect the battery when it needs to drain lot of power.
Second, use knife or what everto separate the metal plate on the ic board and battery(cut the conductive glue), then remove the conductive glue on both side of the metal plate(ic board and batter) like the picture shown
i. imgur. com/8oPYGja .jpg
(Same reason as above)
Three, solder them together with soldering iron and replace the battery cover back, done.
Now you saved a battery.
Well, I can't find a button for me to attach the photo I took for explanation....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My d855 was with two batteries with this problem, I did what is taught in the tutorial and both work perfectly now. I would like to know just what are the risks in the future.
Meanwhile I'm using two new batteries after the procedure.

I have few questions. What kind of wire did you use to jump solder the contacts, also how did you close the cover?

Speaker, Mic and Vibration not working?

Hi Folks,
I recently dropped my phone in water. Put the phone in uncooked rice for 2 days, removed sim tray, put it under direct sunlight., tried everything I could possible to dry it. After 4 days, powered on the device, it turned on fine and most of the things working as normal. I did a hardware test with *#808# and most of the tests are passed.
But Speaker, Mic (also the headphone jack) and Vibration isn't working any more. I also noticed that it is charging fine but discharging very fast, even the battery stats shows 100 to 70% as a vertical line. So, I guess battery needs to be replaced. Other than that, on normal use it is heating up.
I did some google search and few forums says, the speaker and vibration connector goes under battery and connect to the top of motherboard. Considering battery is screwed up. I guess the connector is removed or damaged may be.
Has anyone faced the same problem before or anyone can advice something?

_Saul said:
Hi Folks,
I recently dropped my phone in water. Put the phone in uncooked rice for 2 days, removed sim tray, put it under direct sunlight., tried everything I could possible to dry it. After 4 days, powered on the device, it turned on fine and most of the things working as normal. I did a hardware test with *#808# and most of the tests are passed.
But Speaker, Mic (also the headphone jack) and Vibration isn't working any more. I also noticed that it is charging fine but discharging very fast, even the battery stats shows 100 to 70% as a vertical line. So, I guess battery needs to be replaced. Other than that, on normal use it is heating up.
I did some google search and few forums says, the speaker and vibration connector goes under battery and connect to the top of motherboard. Considering battery is screwed up. I guess the connector is removed or damaged may be.
Has anyone faced the same problem before or anyone can advice something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't dry a phone completely without opening it. So if you are upto it, open it up (provided you are out of warranty) and disconnect all the connectors and clean them with alcohol or other suitable liquid, leave it to dry and then reassemble.

It's hard to guess exactly what happened inside, but it seems there are two possibilities:
- it could be that your top (main) board is damaged, which causes malfunction of connected bottom board OR
- you may have damaged both parts of the phone...
Either case, repairs won't be cheap, motherboard is the most expensive part of the phone.
I would suggest disassembling the device and inspecting internals. Corrosion should be visible.
Check some teardown videos (recommend Jerry Rig Everything or iFixit) before doing anything if you haven't yet.
Sent from my OnePlus 3 using Tapatalk

Thank you @Explorer23 and @tnsmani will do a tear down to check for visible damage part if any.

Took the phone to OP service centre, the repair guy opened it in-front of me for diagnosis. The phone was in dry condition but there were traces of water deposits. He checked few things and suggested that needs to replace mother board as there was no signal coming to speaker receiver and this will cost ~17k.
For me replacing motherboard for such a huge cost isn't of any worth.
Any suggestion if it can be repaired in someway or shall I start to think about selling/exchanging it online.

How to charge your Galaxy Note 10+ in "low" temperatures

Hey all, I have had my Galaxy Note 10 for almost a year, and the other day I accidentally dropped it and ever since then I have been getting the message that my phone temperature is too low and that charging would resume when my phone returned to a normal temperature.
So I did some research and found that my phone's temperature sensor is broken and that I would need to get the wireless charging coil replaced as that is where the sensor is located. I also saw that it was a cheap repair and would be covered by warranty. Unfortunately because of the root it would not be covered by warranty and was actually very expensive as the part needed to be imported.
I ran a few tests and apparently my phone is at minus 30 degrees Celsius. When I got a report sensor, it says that it isn't even there. Clearly the sensor is broken. (Look at attached URLs for screenshots)
The strange thing is though, that I can still use my phone whilst it is plugged in. So obviously it can still use power, but not store it in the battery. Because it can still use power and since it is rooted, surely there is a way that I can change the minimum temperature at which the phone can charge? Or delete the piece of software/file that gives jt any limit at all?So I wanted to ask, since my phone is rooted, surely there must be a way I can "override" the error and charge my phone regardless.
So I looked for ways to charge my phone regardless and came across thermal throttling, which I know is dangerous, but surely because my phone isn't actually "low temperature" if it was well managed, it wouldn't be too unsafe? And would thermal throttling even work as I know that it helps to run your phone at HIGH temperatures, but what about low ones?
So the last thing I wanted to say was that with the phone being rooted, is there some app that can allow me to ignore this warning (override it) as there is obviously a file that prevents charging when the temperature is low. Could this file be altered/deleted, or could the while thing just be ignored. Or would thermal throttling work?
Please leave some feedback, anything is appreciated.
Also please link at the attached URLs for screenshots.
https:// we.tl/t-2EfEw150Y9

If that's the only temp sensor for charging you should have it as it won't shut it down if it gets too hot.
A Li meltdown isn't pretty.
Is the bad sensor in the battery???
If so simply replacing the battery might fix the issue

What is the problem?
blackhawk said:
If that's the only temp sensor for charging you should have it as it won't shut it down if it gets too hot.
A Li meltdown isn't pretty.
Is the bad sensor in the battery???
If so simply replacing the battery might fix the issue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The repair centre that I took this phone to said that the MOTHERBOARD was broken. I think they were mistaken as this is not a problem caused by broken motherboard. Research says the sensor is in the Wireless Charging Coil so I might try fix this. but then what is it about the battery? Which part is broken?
And in the meantime is their any way to override this message with a rooted phone (my original question)

It a thermistor on the wireless charging module or a bad connection going to it. A broken multilayered mobo solder trace can be repaired if it's just one trace and it's beginning/end point isn't under a flat pack.
https://youtu.be/b0__poRAZ94

Elaborate
blackhawk said:
It a thermistor on the wireless charging module or a bad connection going to it. A broken multilayered mobo solder trace can be repaired if it's just one trace and it's beginning/end point isn't under a flat pack.
So are you saying that either the connection (on the wireless charging COIL) from the coil to the battery is broken, or the connection port on the battery might be broken? Is it definitely NOT a motherboard issue?
If so does the wireless charging coil/entire phone battery need replacing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

I don't see a listing under sensors for a internal batter sensor... it appears to be external.
I didn't tear it down.
The sensor or connector issue is more likely but not guaranteed.
You could take an ohmmeter to the sensor to check if it's the culprit. It appears to be on the charging coil assembly, right?
If so a cheap fix.

Sensor
Atie578 said:
blackhawk said:
It a thermistor on the wireless charging module or a bad connection going to it. A broken multilayered mobo solder trace can be repaired if it's just one trace and it's beginning/end point isn't under a flat pack.
So are you saying that either the connection (on the wireless charging COIL) from the coil to the battery is broken, or the connection port on the battery might be broken? Is it definitely NOT a motherboard issue?
If so does the wireless charging coil/entire phone battery need replacing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is only one sensor and its attached to the wireless charging coil, that was the case with the s7 edge back in the day. I see no reason why that would be different now. Its purpose is to monitor the battery and coil temps.
Replacing the wireless charging coil should fix it. You should be able to order one for pretty cheap. its could also just be a loose connection. If your warrenty is void then you might as well open it up (if you have the tools and skill) to confirm the wireless charging connector is seated properly into the motherboard. (since you dropped it, its likely its just come loose)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

vitselvarajah said:
Atie578 said:
There is only one sensor and its attached to the wireless charging coil, that was the case with the s7 edge back in the day. I see no reason why that would be different now. Its purpose is to monitor the battery and coil temps.
Replacing the wireless charging coil should fix it. You should be able to order one for pretty cheap. its could also just be a loose connection. If your warrenty is void then you might as well open it up (if you have the tools and skill) to confirm the wireless charging connector is seated properly into the motherboard. (since you dropped it, its likely its just come loose)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This could be true if the service tech was mistaken. All the OP knows for sure is the chipset isn't getting the temp data.
A good repair center -maybe- could do mobo level repairs. Sammy certainly could.
Remember no repairman likes an open box special.
The OP can try replacing the coil but maybe no better off if it needs a mobo. In the back of my mind I still wonder if the battery pack has a temp sensor the phone is using as well. I see no indication of that but it seems like a logical place for it especially given Samsung's history of exploding batteries.
If the OP goes for a battery replacement there's much more risk of damage involved.
Tough call.
Note: A high G impact can even break internal IC connections. A 3 foot drop onto concrete can generate sufficient G loading to do this. So there's that...
A good case spreads the G force loading over a greater timeframe and lessens it by absorbing some of the energy as well transforming it to heat.
These are heavy, expensive phones with very little impact protection. Get a good case like the Bolt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

blackhawk said:
If that's the only temp sensor for charging you should have it as it won't shut it down if it gets too hot.
A Li meltdown isn't pretty.
Is the bad sensor in the battery???
If so simply replacing the battery might fix the issue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe the sensor is on the wireless charging coil
Guys had the issue back on the s8 too

TheMadScientist said:
I believe the sensor is on the wireless charging coil
Guys had the issue back on the s8 too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It be a happy ending if so...
and not the first time a repair tech was wrong.
Maybe the OP could try a better repair shop if they don't feel up to using a heat gun and popping off the back panel. This is one of the easiest repairs for these phones but still requires considerable care to do. Depends on the OP's skill level and having the minimum tools required.

blackhawk said:
It be a happy ending if so...
and not the first time a repair tech was wrong.
Maybe the OP could try a better repair shop if they don't feel up to using a heat gun and popping off the back panel. This is one of the easiest repairs for these phones but still requires considerable care to do. Depends on the OP's skill level and having the minimum tools required.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well said

Don't know if this will help but I have the same problem with my Note 10+. Mine has a cracked back cover and the faulty temp sensor issue seems to emanate from this because as soon as I slapped on a back cover, the issue resolved itself. I'll replace the back cover eventually but it seems the loose panel might be the issue.
Good luck.

Ritpide said:
Don't know if this will help but I have the same problem with my Note 10+. Mine has a cracked back cover and the faulty temp sensor issue seems to emanate from this because as soon as I slapped on a back cover, the issue resolved itself. I'll replace the back cover eventually but it seems the loose panel might be the issue.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Welcome to XDA
There's a temp sensor on the wireless charging coil assembly I believe. There are a bunch of ribbon cables as well, one could be loose or damaged.
Rear covers are cheap, replace it before the phone gets severely damaged. Get a rear cover seal too. Water kills phones.
Always keep the N10+ cased or it will get damaged. The Zizo Bolt is cheap, provides excellent drop protection and makes the N10+ easier to use.

Oneplus 3 shuts down when dropped no more than an inch

I recently changed the battery for my 5-year-old OP3 with an OEM version. The OEM battery was marginally smaller than the original battery, leaving a tiny gap at the bottom in the phone's battery cavity. It worked fine for a few weeks, then I noticed it would have random shutdowns with the slightest of drops. I tried to fix the problem by (1) putting adhesive tape on the battery so that it wouldn't move; (2) filled the gap at the bottom with a roll of electrical tape to further stop any possible movement.; (3) taped the battery connector so that it wouldn't be dislodged from the socket.
None of these worked. You can see from this video how the phone will shut off with the slightest of drops:
https://imgur.com/a/ach7OCZ
It seems more likely to shut off when the mild impact is on the left side of the phone.
Tired of having to handle my phone like it was an egg, I reinstalled the original battery and the problems were gone. But now I'm left with a fast-draining battery that will only get worse.
Any idea what else I can do?
I can't find the original battery, and this was actually my second OEM battery purchase (the first was marginally too big to fit into the cavity), so I'm hesitant to try buying another one.

dltk said:
I recently changed the battery for my 5-year-old OP3 with an OEM version. The OEM battery was marginally smaller than the original battery, leaving a tiny gap at the bottom in the phone's battery cavity. It worked fine for a few weeks, then I noticed it would have random shutdowns with the slightest of drops. I tried to fix the problem by (1) putting adhesive tape on the battery so that it wouldn't move; (2) filled the gap at the bottom with a roll of electrical tape to further stop any possible movement.; (3) taped the battery connector so that it wouldn't be dislodged from the socket.
None of these worked. You can see from this video how the phone will shut off with the slightest of drops:
https://imgur.com/a/ach7OCZ
It seems more likely to shut off when the mild impact is on the left side of the phone.
Tired of having to handle my phone like it was an egg, I reinstalled the original battery and the problems were gone. But now I'm left with a fast-draining battery that will only get worse.
Any idea what else I can do?
I can't find the original battery, and this was actually my second OEM battery purchase (the first was marginally too big to fit into the cavity), so I'm hesitant to try buying another one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't you have OnePlus service centres? The original battery should be available with them. I replaced mine from the service centre with no issues.
Anything bought outside is a hit or miss.

TNSMANI said:
Don't you have OnePlus service centres? The original battery should be available with them. I replaced mine from the service centre with no issues.
Anything bought outside is a hit or miss.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The ones where I'm located don't have batteries for anything prior to OP6

dltk said:
The ones where I'm located don't have batteries for anything prior to OP6
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Buy a op3 battery from ifixit. The batteries are on par with manufactuer. The shutting off issue is caused by a loose plug from the battery.