I saw this on Chinese forum and it is weird that nobody mention it here
For those battery that cause boot looping problem there's a way to fix it.
First, remove the battery cap
You'll see the metal in the red circle was connected by a conductive glue something like that
i. imgur. com/2Lt1WdE. jpg
(well the forum says I'm new so I can't post link, it will be thankful if there's anyone who can paste this on the reply)
The problem causing looping was because it gets old can the resistance goes up and so affect the battery when it needs to drain lot of power.
Second, use knife or what everto separate the metal plate on the ic board and battery(cut the conductive glue), then remove the conductive glue on both side of the metal plate(ic board and batter) like the picture shown
i. imgur. com/8oPYGja .jpg
(Same reason as above)
Three, solder them together with soldering iron and replace the battery cover back, done.
Now you saved a battery.
Well, I can't find a button for me to attach the photo I took for explanation....
its work
I tried this method before see this post.
but I connected the battery's - directly with battery.
now I follow this method and it's work
thanks
I just ordered a new battery from LG for $15.
JMak00 said:
I just ordered a new battery from LG for $15.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Those batteries are still working well, just the glue part gets old and not functioning well.
Did this fix a few days ago, but i soldered the metal to the upper contact point instead of the lower one. Works good since then. I also bought a new battery that is migth be faulty (always showing 25.0-25.8 c° only, does somebody know why?)
beninho97 said:
Did this fix a few days ago, but i soldered the metal to the upper contact point instead of the lower one. Works good since then. I also bought a new battery that is migth be faulty (always showing 25.0-25.8 c° only, does somebody know why?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought some unofficial manufactured G2 battery and found it has same phenomenon as yours.
I think it's just because of diffreent ic in the battery.
sniperx1211 said:
I saw this on Chinese forum and it is weird that nobody mention it here
For those battery that cause boot looping problem there's a way to fix it.
First, remove the battery cap
You'll see the metal in the red circle was connected by a conductive glue something like that
i. imgur. com/2Lt1WdE. jpg
(well the forum says I'm new so I can't post link, it will be thankful if there's anyone who can paste this on the reply)
The problem causing looping was because it gets old can the resistance goes up and so affect the battery when it needs to drain lot of power.
Second, use knife or what everto separate the metal plate on the ic board and battery(cut the conductive glue), then remove the conductive glue on both side of the metal plate(ic board and batter) like the picture shown
i. imgur. com/8oPYGja .jpg
(Same reason as above)
Three, solder them together with soldering iron and replace the battery cover back, done.
Now you saved a battery.
Well, I can't find a button for me to attach the photo I took for explanation....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My d855 was with two batteries with this problem, I did what is taught in the tutorial and both work perfectly now. I would like to know just what are the risks in the future.
Meanwhile I'm using two new batteries after the procedure.
I have few questions. What kind of wire did you use to jump solder the contacts, also how did you close the cover?
Related
hi everyone,
i having an issue with my battery level and it really pisses me off.
the battery level stuck at 50% - charging or not, it means you will never know if the phone is full charge(on charging) or nearly lowbat(discharging).
Also, it says "battery usage data isnt available.
it stays 50% when in recovery mode too.
i did the ff troubleshooting:
- wipe data, cache, system, etc.
- installed AOSP and CM ROM
- tried downloading battery test and everything is normal -
NOTHING CHANGED
The the battery stays upto 10+ hours but its hard to live without the battery level
hope you guys could help me with this - THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!
ronniefaith said:
hi everyone,
i having an issue with my battery level and it really pisses me off.
the battery level stuck at 50% - charging or not, it means you will never know if the phone is full charge(on charging) or nearly lowbat(discharging).
Also, it says "battery usage data isnt available.
it stays 50% when in recovery mode too.
i did the ff troubleshooting:
- wipe data, cache, system, etc.
- installed AOSP and CM ROM
- tried downloading battery test and everything is normal -
NOTHING CHANGED
The the battery stays upto 10+ hours but its hard to live without the battery level
hope you guys could help me with this - THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here, and did the same, but unlocked boot loader, install ROM and tried to reflash firmware.
But batter stays at 50%...
Maybe this Member can help @Asus_USA
Hi ! I have the same issue with the official rom ZE551ML updated 40.90
Enviado desde mi M52_Red_Note mediante Tapatalk
acaele said:
Hi ! I have the same issue with the official rom ZE551ML updated 40.90
Enviado desde mi M52_Red_Note mediante Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I sent the device in for repair to Asus. Since it's under warranty.
✯ ✵ ✯Judgment is here.✯ ✵ ✯
Got it fix
hi guys i found a fix here..
i did everything i mentioned above but none of those work so i thought it was a hardware issue and i was right.
this is what i did..
I removed the cover of the battery or battery plate (probably I had to unscrew everything) at the middle of the unit there were 3 flex connectors, and all i did was removed those 3 and carefully cleaned it. i used dry toothbrush then put the flexes back. and turned on the unit- and it workS!!!! then put everything back -
never had issue again with the battery
I am not responsible for anything if you follow what i did. there are some videos on youtube how to remove the battery plate that holds the battery..
thanks
ronniefaith said:
hi guys i found a fix here..
i did everything i mentioned above but none of those work so i thought it was a hardware issue and i was right.
this is what i did..
I removed the cover of the battery or battery plate (probably I had to unscrew everything) at the middle of the unit there were 3 flex connectors, and all i did was removed those 3 and carefully cleaned it. i used dry toothbrush then put the flexes back. and turned on the unit- and it workS!!!! then put everything back -
never had issue again with the battery
I am not responsible for anything if you follow what i did. there are some videos on youtube how to remove the battery plate that holds the battery..
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure about this???, i did and nothings changed..
I had the same problem and i took it to a service centre,,, they told me it was the problem of the motherboard....They changed the motherboard and now its working fine
i lived with this for a month till i found an accidental fix for this. i plugged in earphones (first time) to listen to a meditation app that i'd just downloaded, and when i unplugged the earphones and charged the phone, the charging display went back to normal.
This usually happens when there is a loose connection between the motherboard and the battery. It happens on other androids too.
Same here...
I am facing the same issue.. battery bar stuck at 50%.. Sometime hitting at back restores the function.. but again goes back to same within a day or two.. very irritating..
The problem is not the software. the way you fix it is take off the back plate, remove all the tiny Philips screws and remove the hold down backing plate, and take a piece of paper and fold it 2 or 3 times and place it on the black foam piece that the battery connector is on the top of the battery, that's the battery connector connecting the battery to the phone electronic board. the problem is the connection is loose. what you are doing is creating a shim to push the connector in more. you could use electrical tape but paper works ok and you can control how much pressure to apply. do not use too thick of a piece for the shim or you would bulge out the hold down backing plate.
Judge Joseph Dredd said:
Same here, and did the same, but unlocked boot loader, install ROM and tried to reflash firmware.
But batter stays at 50%...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
eksine said:
The problem is not the software. the way you fix it is take off the back plate, remove all the tiny Philips screws and remove the hold down backing plate, and take a piece of paper and fold it 2 or 3 times and place it on the black foam piece that the battery connector is on the top of the battery, that's the battery connector connecting the battery to the phone electronic board. the problem is the connection is loose. what you are doing is creating a shim to push the connector in more. you could use electrical tape but paper works ok and you can control how much pressure to apply. do not use too thick of a piece for the shim or you would bulge out the hold down backing plate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This actually fixed it, I got the battery of my phone replaced from the service center for another issue and got this problem after they replaced it. Wondering why they don't know about this problem they could have prevented it before it's released. First time I had to do this on my own as I'm frkn tired of going back to them. Thanks @eksine :victory: glad you visit XDA from time to time.
I must say : Asus Zenfone 2 is a peace of sh.. or maybe garbage.
I have problems with this phone from the day one.
Whatsapp,
battery (died after 4 months),
bad signal for internet (my other phones works much better),
software,
now the new battery is stuck on 50%
I promise that I will never again buy any product from Asus in my life, because this phone has destroyed my nerves.
eksine said:
The problem is not the software. the way you fix it is take off the back plate, remove all the tiny Philips screws and remove the hold down backing plate, and take a piece of paper and fold it 2 or 3 times and place it on the black foam piece that the battery connector is on the top of the battery, that's the battery connector connecting the battery to the phone electronic board. the problem is the connection is loose. what you are doing is creating a shim to push the connector in more. you could use electrical tape but paper works ok and you can control how much pressure to apply. do not use too thick of a piece for the shim or you would bulge out the hold down backing plate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good find!!
I change a battery by myself and after that I stuck at the 50% too. After I read your post, I reopen the cover and found that the battery connector is really loosen and I apply your shim method to make it more better connection and it can read the actual battery percentage.
Thank you!
Hi Friends,
I took over a tab 8.0 Lte from my dad but there seems to be a big problem with it. The tab keeps heating up even in idle and battery drain is fast and constant. From full to 0, the graph is a constant downslope going flat in about 3hrs. This happens even after I hard resetted it. I open up the back and found the part that is heating up. I am starting to think that the motherboard is damaged rather than the battery need a change. The metal part is HOT. I cant touch it for more than 2 sec. Even in idle.
I attached the part in the pic, hopefully someone can help me to identify the problem. Thanks lots in advance!!
scpion said:
Hi Friends,
I took over a tab 8.0 Lte from my dad but there seems to be a big problem with it. The tab keeps heating up even in idle and battery drain is fast and constant. From full to 0, the graph is a constant downslope going flat in about 3hrs. This happens even after I hard resetted it. I open up the back and found the part that is heating up. I am starting to think that the motherboard is damaged rather than the battery need a change. The metal part is HOT. I cant touch it for more than 2 sec. Even in idle.
I attached the part in the pic, hopefully someone can help me to identify the problem. Thanks lots in advance!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems you open the rear cover the wrong way as it still have the frame cover around the back. It should open from the front.
You don't tell exactly model , I'm not sure what it is but most of this problem is from cracked battery connector. Re solder the black battery connector will fix it.
This is the proper way to open the rear, do like you did will damage the rear cover, it won't snap back as some plastic locking tabs are broken.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_I2uLqRghAg
This is the black battery connector which need to be re soldered
Ya I opened from the back.. Yes.. Realised some of the locking tabs are broken. :/ took the instructions from ifixit.. The connector looks, feel perfectly fine though..
scpion said:
Ya I opened from the back.. Yes.. Realised some of the locking tabs are broken. :/ took the instructions from ifixit.. The connector looks, feel perfectly fine though..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Trust me it looks fine with bare eyes but not under microscope. Re solder the battery connector will fix the quick discharge, overheating. It takes only under 5 minutes to get it done, this problem is common in Samsung tablets.
Okie.... I give it a try. My last soldering experience was like 15yrs ago....
I just opened up the tab again and have a look at the connector.. It's so freaking tiny! How on earth is someone able to do it?..? I think if I were to do it, I would solder at least 3 pins together in one shot.......
You need magnified glass and small tip iron to do the rework,
Otherwise you will short it
I recently had to replace my battery in the m8. I managed to find a retailor online, ordered it, came with a install tool and double sided tape to replace the one used before for the speaker covers on top and bottom.
There is so little into on this online, I followed a YouTube video on replacing the digitizer of the phone to learn how to open the phone to replace the battery. I can say from experience its pretty easy, more intimating then anything after watching the video first. After applying heat to phone, I used a hair dryer. Of cource removing the screws that are found after removing the speaker covers that are removed after placing heat. The video I saw suggested guitar pics. I had none and have no idea where to find them. So I used some old credit cards, along with gift cards. The phone was pretty easy to remove from shell after heat. Where I screwed up, and its not mentioned in any videos I saw. THERE IS A SMALL RIBBON THAT SPLICES FROM ANOTHER LARGER RIBBON NEAR OR EXACT LOCATION OF AUDIO BUTTONS ON SIDE OF PHONE. I believe that when opening the phone from frame I may have ripped this ribbon by opening it with a credit card and ever so silently pushing the card upwards to remove the phone from the frame. After replacing the battery and replacing the phone in frame, on first boot my audio buttons don't work. I removed the phone from frame and that's when I noticed the small ribbon that wraps around the side of the phone easily ripple able when using anything along the side of the phone to remove the frame. It's not mentioned in any videos I watched on YouTube, so BEWARE. I'm hoping if anyone knows if this ribbon is replace able and maybe how it might be replaced?? Also if anyone can confirm this ribbon is used for audio connection to buttons?? After noticing the F.UP, I can see how each connector is used to hit the audio up and down but am still puzzled as to why it needs this ribbon I believe. Would think that the audio connection after receiving a hit on up or down would send whatever signal thru the phone onto a much larger ribbon to the motherboard which is on top of the battery. Yes its the same as a small ribbon connection, but I don't see the reason of needing this separate ribbon that appears is just for audio, spliced from a larger ribbon. So I'm hoping that someone can confirm that this is the intenal setup and yes this ribbon is for audio. So that I can maybe replace it, or at least stop me from trying to figure out other reasons of why. But I at least wanted to warn other people of this before they tried to replace the battery themselves. Also if you do replace it and after booting phone on either side it appears that you damaged the digitizer cause maybe one or two buttons don't work on keyboard. Its most likely cause the screws on the frame under speaker covers are to tight. I did that also and thought I broke the digitizer removing the battery. But after removing screw's and enter the booting up the phone with no screw's but in frame, all keyboard functions worked. I then screwed each screw in and applied pressure , then turned phone on to make sure it wasn't to much. Just don't tighting screws with phone booted on, believe you could get a static charge and screw up phone. Hope this guide and question helps anyone replacing battery. Mine failed after using custom ROMs on 5.1.1 , phone began to not stayed charged for more then a hour, also wouldn't even accept a charge. Tried all other fixes, calibrating battery and all. After replacing phone works fine accept for audio which is a pain in the A$$ cause can't manually boot to bootloader on boot by hand.
Hi all,
Firstly apologies for the long post but I feel the more information I can supply the better diagnosis might be made.
I was recently given an LG G3 D855 16GB/2GB phone which has a very intermittent issue of rebooting and throwing a blue screen, notably it seems after I run any app updates. I have so far done the following to try to fix it:
1: I managed to get it working long enough to get all my friend's pics and movies etc off, then performed a factory reset using vol down and power button. Phone booted up fine, I could proceed through the setup options. Took it to work and using LG PC suite upgraded to Marshmallow. No issues.
2: Updated two apps from Playstore, rebooted and got a blue screen and reboot, but eventually it came right again and I was able to use it for a while.
3: Ran another update from Playstore and got a blue screen before the update was even installed. Left it alone for about an hour with the battery out then booted up and did a factory reset again with back buttons. All good, ran through setup no issues.
4: After using it for a few days I decide to try to update again, and again blue screen and reboot. This time did not come right even after leaving it.
5: Downloaded KitKat TOT and DLL files for my specific area or zone, South Africa, and managed to get the phone into download mode then used LG Flash Tool v 1.8.1.1023 to install ROM from TOT file. All went well. No issues at all.
6: Used for about a week then upgrade to Lollipop via LG PC Suite. Again, no issues whatsoever.
7: Next day decide to do updates, updates went fine until I rebooted then blue screen, followed by green screen with the demigod kernel crash message and reboot. However, I just left it to do its reboots and after about 5 or 6 times it booted up and stayed running.
8: This past Monday I upgraded to Marshmallow using LG PC suite, no issues whatsoever.
9: Yesterday I ran one update and rebooted, blue screen and rebooting. Took battery out and left it for about an hour again, put battery back in and did factory reset using back buttons.
10: As of right now phone is functioning perfectly again.
I must mention the following:
1: I can install any app that gets wiped when doing a factory rest, like WhatsApp, Nine Email, GBoard etc with no issue whatsoever.
2: The battery is fine as far as I can tell, it lasts about 3/4 of the day under normal to heavy usage and is not swollen at all.
3: The Phone NEVER gets hot at the back, even when rebooting constantly or throwing a blue screen.
4: As far as I know it has not been dropped.
5: It is protected by the LG QuickCircle case with QI charging back.
My question after all this is, could this be a hardware (Motherboard) issue or is it software somehow? I really like this phone when its working correctly so would love to be able to use it with no worries.
Any guidance at all from the wonderful smart people here at XDA will be highly appreciated!
Thank you for your time and patience!
Blue screen is, I think related to SSD losing some contact with motherboard. You need to open the device, get the motherboard out and put 0.5 mm thermal pad on the SSD (under the EMI shield) and put the shield back. Then take a 1mm thermal pad, or 0.5 depending on your preference but I highly recommend a 1mm one to reduce the risk of running into screen fading issue, and put it on the RAM chip. Put everything together and screw the upper screws tight so that pressure is made to the chips.
You can also apply heat to the chip beforehand, while applying some pressure. In that case, I recommend you to put something on the other side, on the RAM chip so that on both chips pressure is made while the heat is being applied. You can use hair dryer but shield the rest of the boad with some aluminum foil. Try only the thermal pads first tho.
more info: https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/general/g3-hardware-problems-solved-bsod-screen-t3597086
xfim said:
Blue screen is, I think related to SSD losing some contact with motherboard. You need to open the device, get the motherboard out and put 0.5 mm thermal pad on the SSD (under the EMI shield) and put the shield back. Then take a 1mm thermal pad, or 0.5 depending on your preference but I highly recommend a 1mm one to reduce the risk of running into screen fading issue, and put it on the RAM chip. Put everything together and screw the upper screws tight so that pressure is made to the chips.
You can also apply heat to the chip beforehand, while applying some pressure. In that case, I recommend you to put something on the other side, on the RAM chip so that on both chips pressure is made while the heat is being applied. You can use hair dryer but shield the rest of the boad with some aluminum foil. Try only the thermal pads first tho.
more info: https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/general/g3-hardware-problems-solved-bsod-screen-t3597086
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi and thank you for your reply. I hear what you are saying about the SSD but my question is why only very erratically and why only when I do updates? The phone works flawlessly with calls, watching movies, doing email, using WhatApp. The ONLY time I have issues that I can ascertain is when I do updates.
marcd2015 said:
Hi and thank you for your reply. I hear what you are saying about the SSD but my question is why only very erratically and why only when I do updates? The phone works flawlessly with calls, watching movies, doing email, using WhatApp. The ONLY time I have issues that I can ascertain is when I do updates.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose because updates require a lot of storage I/O so it heats up more and that causes the solder to expand enough to trigger the cracked connection to do its job lol. It also heats up the CPU more than updating system over PC. Thermal pads are cheap. You can, however use aluminum foil just for the test but thermal pads are safer to use.
xfim said:
I suppose because updates require a lot of storage I/O so it heats up more and that causes the solder to expand enough to trigger the cracked connection to do its job lol. It also heats up the CPU more than updating system over PC. Thermal pads are cheap. You can, however use aluminum foil just for the test but thermal pads are safer to use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi and thanks again for your reply. Well, I can tell you that it is getting worse, I had random reboots and one or two blue screens for no reason, other than just normal usage. I went to the link you provided but the links in that original post to the images no longer work, however I did find the images so just need to ask, what you refer to as the SSD is that the Sandisk 16GB SDIN9DW4 memory as in the image attached?
That is correct. It is an emmc 5.0 spec. Remember to put pressure on both sides of the board (on ssd and ram)
xfim said:
That is correct. It is an emmc 5.0 spec. Remember to put pressure on both sides of the board (on ssd and ram)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks will do. Now to try to find thermal pads here in South Africa!!! LOL
marcd2015 said:
Thanks will do. Now to try to find thermal pads here in South Africa!!! LOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can try with something else just to test if it works haha. Then you can search for thermal pads. You should be able to find them in a computer shop.
xfim said:
You can try with something else just to test if it works haha. Then you can search for thermal pads. You should be able to find them in a computer shop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I'm sure I will find somewhere. One more question if I may, do I cut the pad to fit the chip or slightly bigger or what is the best tried size for this repair?
marcd2015 said:
Thanks I'm sure I will find somewhere. One more question if I may, do I cut the pad to fit the chip or slightly bigger or what is the best tried size for this repair?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah you can cut it in the size of the chip but it doesnt really matter as long as it isnt smaller than the chip. If you have aluminum foil at home you can try with that first. Fold it a few times until it's thick enough. Just put some tape over it in case it touches the motherboard so it doesnt short out.
xfim said:
Yeah you can cut it in the size of the chip but it doesnt really matter as long as it isnt smaller than the chip. If you have aluminum foil at home you can try with that first. Fold it a few times until it's thick enough. Just put some tape over it in case it touches the motherboard so it doesnt short out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks but I'll rather just do it once right, so I will hunt for the thermal pads. I'm not wanting to disassemble the phone too many times.
marcd2015 said:
Thanks but I'll rather just do it once right, so I will hunt for the thermal pads. I'm not wanting to disassemble the phone too many times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Disassembling the G3 is very easy. Check the guide on youtube and you'll get the motherboard out in less than 5 minutes. Just be careful with the ribbon cables. You got two on the bottom and two cameras at the top. I recommend you to try doing this before buying thermal pads just in case I was wrong and the issue is something else.
xfim said:
Disassembling the G3 is very easy. Check the guide on youtube and you'll get the motherboard out in less than 5 minutes. Just be careful with the ribbon cables. You got two on the bottom and two cameras at the top. I recommend you to try doing this before buying thermal pads just in case I was wrong and the issue is something else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will do and thank you for all the help!! I will post an update soon on whether the fix worked!!
Good luck!
xfim said:
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well it seems there is a deeper issue with this damn phone!! I finally got the thermal pad, Artctic brand, 0.5mm but as soon as i apply the pads to the areas described and tighten up the phone simply refuses to switch on at all!!!. If I remove all screws from the upper frame and then try to switch on it does and blue screens immediately. So I'm thinking I just need to suck it up and get a new motherboard.
Thanks to all for the help with this!
EDIT:
Seems I had to leave it for a while, as it is now switched on and booted up no problem, with pads in place and screwed down. Minor issue now is it won't read the SIM card but I have also found a fix for that. Right now I'm running updates and so far all good, no blue screen yet. Will post back on Monday after I've used it for a bit.
marcd2015 said:
Well it seems there is a deeper issue with this damn phone!! I finally got the thermal pad, Artctic brand, 0.5mm but as soon as i apply the pads to the areas described and tighten up the phone simply refuses to switch on at all!!!. If I remove all screws from the upper frame and then try to switch on it does and blue screens immediately. So I'm thinking I just need to suck it up and get a new motherboard.
Thanks to all for the help with this!
EDIT:
Seems I had to leave it for a while, as it is now switched on and booted up no problem, with pads in place and screwed down. Minor issue now is it won't read the SIM card but I have also found a fix for that. Right now I'm running updates and so far all good, no blue screen yet. Will post back on Monday after I've used it for a bit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the pads dont work well enough, you can take the motherboard out, remove the metal shields and take some hard flat metal pieces that you can put on both ssd and ram (big enough to cover them), then put some aluminum foil big enough to cover the motherboard (to protect the rest of the board from heat) and take something like pliers to put pressure on both of the metal pieces (aim for the middle of chips). Then take a candle and concentrate heat on both chips. Switch sides every now and then for about 5 minutes. This is how I fixed both reboot and screen fading problem atleast temporarily.
xfim said:
If the pads dont work well enough, you can take the motherboard out, remove the metal shields and take some hard flat metal pieces that you can put on both ssd and ram (big enough to cover them), then put some aluminum foil big enough to cover the motherboard (to protect the rest of the board from heat) and take something like pliers to put pressure on both of the metal pieces (aim for the middle of chips). Then take a candle and concentrate heat on both chips. Switch sides every now and then for about 5 minutes. This is how I fixed both reboot and screen fading problem atleast temporarily.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for the reply. No, the pads are working fine, so far, just that I had to loosen the lower screw on the volume/power panel in order to get the SIM card to read. But otherwise so far so good
marcd2015 said:
Hi, thanks for the reply. No, the pads are working fine, so far, just that I had to loosen the lower screw on the volume/power panel in order to get the SIM card to read. But otherwise so far so good
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to hear!
xfim said:
Good to hear!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi I would just like to post an update to this,. After much battling I have finally managed to get a working phone that seems stable so far after 4 days. I'm using a 0.5mm pad on either side as the phone simply will not switch on with a 1mm pad on the screen side. Also, I had to screw down the screw I loosened at the bottom of the volume rocker/power assembly, the SIM card is still working however the SD card no longer reads but that's not a serious issue as the phone has 16GB onboard and I'm not using it for major games or movies or anything like that, purely for work email, calls/SMS, WhatsApp.
So here's hoping it will now continue to work and i will post here regularly with any updates and/or issues if that's acceptable to the moderators.
Bare in mind, all of these fixes are not permanent, for a permanent one you need a new MOBO
Hi guys, my OnePlus 3's battery indicator is stuck on 50%. I think I must have broken the temperature sensor on it when I replaced the screen. The reason I think that is because in TWRP, the CPU temperature reads something like 1648375974799 degrees. I think because the phone thinks my its temperature is too high, so it won't charge my battery. When I unplugged my phone, it will run for a minute and it would run out of battery.
The funny thing is, I've just replaced the battery. When I switched it on, it read 90% and a few seconds later, it went back to 50% again. I just wiped my whole phone and it still reads 50% in TWRP.
I've tried looking at the parts list to see where the temperature sensor is but I couldn't find it. Is it on the mainboard or the sub board on the bottom of the phone?
Cheers!
I've had similar issues with the Nexus 5 not charging, which was caused by a fake battery (temperature sensor was always reading -30).
Given you've just replaced the battery, it might be the same case. I would first try restoring the original battery, just to rule the new battery out.
morphvale said:
I've had similar issues with the Nexus 5 not charging, which was caused by a fake battery (temperature sensor was always reading -30).
Given you've just replaced the battery, it might be the same case. I would first try restoring the original battery, just to rule the new battery out.
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Hey there, thanks for the reply.
My original battery had this problem, so I thought I would be able to fix it by replacing the battery which was not the case. So I'm pretty convinced that I messed up the temperature sensor. Was looking for a way to disable or spoof the temperature sensor, or replacing the component instead of the main logic board which could be quite costly.
I'm having the same problem, I was told it is from damaging a super small capacitor that's really easy to knock off. Located right beside the battery connection plug on the main board. only problem is I can't find what the cap size is, to try and replace it. I located the damaged cap no problem and mine is diffently damaged, cracked right in the middle, leading me to believe the info about it being the problem was correct, but the article never gave the replacement info. Anyone possibly know the info for the cap located right beside the battery plug under the screen connection, bottom right corner on the one plus 3 main board?
There are 3 possible solutions for this issue.
1: replace battery.
2: change the ROM for one that changes the Kernel for a version without this temperature protection.
3: fix or replace the main board.
To fix the main board you need to check 2 things on it.
On the left side of the battery connector (under a double sided glue tape foam), there are some SMD. The lowest two are related with this problem. I fix my board resoldering the one on the right (nearest to the connector). Be aware that the SMD is small and when are desoldered, it gets sticked on the double sided glue tape foam. I took a picture of it, but i don't know how to insert here.