I recently had to replace my battery in the m8. I managed to find a retailor online, ordered it, came with a install tool and double sided tape to replace the one used before for the speaker covers on top and bottom.
There is so little into on this online, I followed a YouTube video on replacing the digitizer of the phone to learn how to open the phone to replace the battery. I can say from experience its pretty easy, more intimating then anything after watching the video first. After applying heat to phone, I used a hair dryer. Of cource removing the screws that are found after removing the speaker covers that are removed after placing heat. The video I saw suggested guitar pics. I had none and have no idea where to find them. So I used some old credit cards, along with gift cards. The phone was pretty easy to remove from shell after heat. Where I screwed up, and its not mentioned in any videos I saw. THERE IS A SMALL RIBBON THAT SPLICES FROM ANOTHER LARGER RIBBON NEAR OR EXACT LOCATION OF AUDIO BUTTONS ON SIDE OF PHONE. I believe that when opening the phone from frame I may have ripped this ribbon by opening it with a credit card and ever so silently pushing the card upwards to remove the phone from the frame. After replacing the battery and replacing the phone in frame, on first boot my audio buttons don't work. I removed the phone from frame and that's when I noticed the small ribbon that wraps around the side of the phone easily ripple able when using anything along the side of the phone to remove the frame. It's not mentioned in any videos I watched on YouTube, so BEWARE. I'm hoping if anyone knows if this ribbon is replace able and maybe how it might be replaced?? Also if anyone can confirm this ribbon is used for audio connection to buttons?? After noticing the F.UP, I can see how each connector is used to hit the audio up and down but am still puzzled as to why it needs this ribbon I believe. Would think that the audio connection after receiving a hit on up or down would send whatever signal thru the phone onto a much larger ribbon to the motherboard which is on top of the battery. Yes its the same as a small ribbon connection, but I don't see the reason of needing this separate ribbon that appears is just for audio, spliced from a larger ribbon. So I'm hoping that someone can confirm that this is the intenal setup and yes this ribbon is for audio. So that I can maybe replace it, or at least stop me from trying to figure out other reasons of why. But I at least wanted to warn other people of this before they tried to replace the battery themselves. Also if you do replace it and after booting phone on either side it appears that you damaged the digitizer cause maybe one or two buttons don't work on keyboard. Its most likely cause the screws on the frame under speaker covers are to tight. I did that also and thought I broke the digitizer removing the battery. But after removing screw's and enter the booting up the phone with no screw's but in frame, all keyboard functions worked. I then screwed each screw in and applied pressure , then turned phone on to make sure it wasn't to much. Just don't tighting screws with phone booted on, believe you could get a static charge and screw up phone. Hope this guide and question helps anyone replacing battery. Mine failed after using custom ROMs on 5.1.1 , phone began to not stayed charged for more then a hour, also wouldn't even accept a charge. Tried all other fixes, calibrating battery and all. After replacing phone works fine accept for audio which is a pain in the A$$ cause can't manually boot to bootloader on boot by hand.
Related
Hello, I saw that someone else asked a similiar question before but they did not word the question correctly and got little help.
On my HTC EVO logic board, there's three tan "ports" (I don't know what they are actually called). One for the front camera, one for the LCD, and one for the front panel.
While walking home one day, my screen started showing a dark spot. The spot got bigger, and I decided to take apart my phone (something I'd done before a few times) and try to clean things up. I put everything back together, and the LCD would not come on. After numerous tries, I finally decided the LCD was damaged. As I went back in the phone, I saw that regardless of whether you flipped the black tab on top of the LCD tan 'port' back or forward, the cable was capable of being pulled out, e.g., it was not secure. At the time, I thought nothing of it, but now that my new LCD should be here, I'm worried.
Is my LCD not working because the 'port' is broken? If so, what can I do to repair it? (I heard it is very difficult). I'm worried, because I paid a lot to buy a new LCD and will be unable to send it back.
http://guide-images.ifixit.net/igi/ZYHLZwIIVhjilEpT.large
Also, my front panel cable never sits 'perfectly'..that is, I have to connect everything else first, and then try my best with the front panel. The tape does not stay down flat completely.
These sorts of connectors can be fixed,but there is quite a bit of skill involved. Upload a picture and I can tell you better how hard it is. What I can tell you is that you probably cant do it yourself. I base this on the fact that those who have the necesesary skils will instantly know its going to be a pain. In fact,its easy to screw it up ,and sometimes you do,even if you DO know what your doing. Since I dont want to take my phone apart,Ill need to see a picture of it before I can tell you anything more. One thing to keep in mind is that sometimes the ribbon cable CAN be pulled out anyway,and is making good contact and there is some other problem. If you have not installed the new LCD,install it and see if it all works. If so,your good to go. As a general rule,the connectors are delicate and its not a good idea to pull them out. In fact,dont disconnect them if you dont have to. They have a limited number of connect/disconects they can take and they are very easy to break.
pflatlyne said:
These sorts of connectors can be fixed,but there is quite a bit of skill involved. Upload a picture and I can tell you better how hard it is. What I can tell you is that you probably cant do it yourself. I base this on the fact that those who have the necesesary skils will instantly know its going to be a pain. In fact,its easy to screw it up ,and sometimes you do,even if you DO know what your doing. Since I dont want to take my phone apart,Ill need to see a picture of it before I can tell you anything more. One thing to keep in mind is that sometimes the ribbon cable CAN be pulled out anyway,and is making good contact and there is some other problem. If you have not installed the new LCD,install it and see if it all works. If so,your good to go. As a general rule,the connectors are delicate and its not a good idea to pull them out. In fact,dont disconnect them if you dont have to. They have a limited number of connect/disconects they can take and they are very easy to break.
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Well, I don't really have a means of taking a quality photo except with my computer webcam but I'll try in a second. I can't really show you because there isn't much to see. The little black bar that flips up and down to 'lock' the port is ineffective; the cable can be pulled out regardless. I know I can't fix the port/connector by myself, so I'm hoping that's not the issue. You have given me a lot of hope though. The new LCD should be here by Wednesday at the latest, so I'll be able to test it then.
Does my front panel affect the LCD? Since I dropped my phone on the corner, even with a new panel it does not sit 'perfectly'. I don't think they're related though.
BluRngerGurl said:
Well, I don't really have a means of taking a quality photo except with my computer webcam but I'll try in a second. I can't really show you because there isn't much to see. The little black bar that flips up and down to 'lock' the port is ineffective; the cable can be pulled out regardless. I know I can't fix the port/connector by myself, so I'm hoping that's not the issue. You have given me a lot of hope though. The new LCD should be here by Wednesday at the latest, so I'll be able to test it then.
Does my front panel affect the LCD? Since I dropped my phone on the corner, even with a new panel it does not sit 'perfectly'. I don't think they're related though.
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I dont think so. I bet your ok. Just dont keep playing with the connector. I know,Ive done it. I sit there messing with it,wondering,is it broken? Is it good? Then the little black peice comes off in your hand or the plastic breaks and "well its sure broken now!" Remember,that little latch does not so much hold the cable in place as hold the cable against the contacts,if its making contact,its good to go.
Hi, all. The new LCD I receieved did not work. There are very minor differences in the two; such as some type of blue gunk on the silver part of the LCD, the connector is more of a dark orange on the new one while the original is a yellow-orange, etc. Also, again, the connector does not 100% fit in the slot. It goes in, but a small corner sticks out a bit and you have to either hold it in or clip it in [which I can't, because the black clip is broken].
The only possibilities I can think of are
A] Because the little black thing is damaged, no LCD will work in it. Therefore I need a new phone.
B] The LCD does not work.
C] The LCD is the wrong size.
At this point I want to just give up and get a new phone, which is very heart-wrenching because I love my EVO and I doubt I can afford the only other phone I like, the Samsung Galaxy S II Epic Touch 4G.
Is anyone able to identify what connector is used on this phone for the LCD? I broke a pin on the connector while trying to repair a cracked screen. I would like to buy it and re-solder it on to fix the phone.
Can someone link the correct connector maybe from digikey.com?
Broken latch
I too have a problem with the connector... the plastic part that connects the ribbon cable to the main board has broken. There must be a place to buy these tiny plastic latches... does anyone know? Your assistance will be greatly appreciated!
Mac-
I have been looking around, but no place specifically answers this exact question.
Long story short I have a t-mobile Mainboard that I want to save from a phone with a broken screen that I have. From what I understand the other components work as well (camera, speaker and whatever else). I understand that I can purchase an LCD/digitizer with assembly and carefully place the components into there to make sure the phone works but it would cost me around $120 for the parts + whatever time it takes me to replace the components. My second option which I am asking to see if it is indeed possible, would be to take the mainboard from the T-999 and replace it with a SCH-I535/SPH-L710 that I would purchase (most likely with bad ESN - costing me the same amount) but it would mean that I would not have to deal with screen replacement and I have a higher likelihood of having a good quality screen. (I have never been happy with the quality of screen replacements from ebay). It makes no difference if it doesn't work, but someone with the experience of working with different models should be able to answer this question.
Why not buy T999 with bad ESN ?
Perseus71 said:
Why not buy T999 with bad ESN ?
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I am trying but T999 with bad IMEI's are not only more expensive but a lot of them also have broken screens so im back where I started. I am just stating these two because I can find them cheaply and easy to find as well.
In that case, you could try taking the Display & Digitizer from those phones and put it in your phone. Don't try to transplant your motherboard into that phone unless you have a good reason to do so.
It functions but you have to use a case and...
I did this a about a week ago. Here's how it went.
I bought a SPH-L710 without realizing it did not have a sim card slot. The screen had one slight crack and everything else worked.
After receiving it, I bought a T999 with a cracked screen/ non-working digitizer and everything else worked (the seller heard sounds when it powered on.)
I disassembled both and put the T999 mainboard on the L710 screen digitizer. Most of the screws line up. The two screws that don't line up are:
1. at the bottom near the TOP of the USB port. The hole in the board and the hole in the digitizer are on opposite sides of the USB port. This cannot be remedied, where the screw goes through the board, there's no hole on the digitizer, and you can't put a hole through the mainboard to meet up with the one on the digitizer. You could try but I think there's a circuit on the board there, or not enough room.
The two holes on the SIDES of the USB port will line up only when you squeeze thee mainboard and digitizer together while installing the screws.
2. on the side near the power button, there is a screw that goes there, but on the T999 mainboard near where the screw goes, there's something that looks like a button cell battery about 3mm wide and 1.5-2mm tall. It stuck in a hole made for it in the T999 digitizer, but the L710 digitizer does not have a recess in it to fit this button cell so the T999 mainboard sticks up slightly, enough that if you put the screw in the hole in the side, then the power switch on the mainboard will not stick down far enough, and when you push the power button on the outside of the case, it won't engage the power switch on the mainboard. To remedy this, leave out the screw on the side of the mainboard.
Because the mainboard is slightly bent due to the button cell battery, you need to have a case that compresses the phone together so the power button will engage the power switch properly. I used a "waterproof" chinese knockoff case I got on e$ay for $13. It's not waterproof, but the phone didn't get ruined even thought I tested the waterproof-ness of the case before I put the phone in and it passed, so maybe a genuine otterbox case would have been better. But the case does OK to compress everything enough that the power button and power switch work all the time. With the case on, you can't tell the phone is missing screws internally.
Verdict: everything works properly except the camera doesn't focus properly, it only works in Macro focus, I don't know if I should take the camera module from the L710 and try it or if it won't move because of the stress of the mainboard being slightly bent all time due to the button cell battery. It did focus properly for the few few days I had it.
One other issue: I can't get Windows 7 to recognize it, so I can't use Odin to root it, I've tried all the drivers, I've tried all the modes. I have no idea if this is a Windows issue or if it is somehow caused by the Frankenstein's Monster-ness of the hardware.
So yes, it can be done, with a "rugged" style case and with a few issues. I have no experience with the I535 at all.
I hope this helps,
rollinns
I could not have asked for a better reply. Thanks so much!!!!
Glad I could help
I was looking for this info about 3 weeks ago and didn't really look that hard since i was pretty sure everyone would give me the same replies you got before I replied. But for my entire life I've been asking questions no one else has asked, so I'm used to just having to do stuff to get answers. In this case, it helped you too.
If I had to do it over again, I think I'd try the whole process w/o the L710 parts. Maybe the I535 will work, and I still could drill a recess into the L710 digitizer if I had a mill, but I don't have access to mine now and won't for a while, and I'm not sure I trust the drill press to not crack the digitizer.
Also - NFC is less reliable than it was with my S2, meaning it doesn't work all the time - it's harder to beam contact info to another phone, but QI wireless charging works flawlessly.
My hope is to put some NFC tags in the truck along with a wireless charger so I can listen to internet radio as I drive, i.e. - a tag to turn off wifi, turn on bluetooth, turn on the app that streams music to my JVC car stereo and turn on the "TuneIn" app. and then I can still charge my phone without worrying about wires.
Upon power up flashes green then blue, no LG logo or anything else. If i plug USB connection to the PC the PC recognizes the phone any suggestions? By the way this happened after the phone was dropped, no visible signs of the screen being cracked.
Try holding power button for like 30 seconds. Or pull battery
Was this ever resolved? My friends phone did the exact same thing the other night, you can still feel it vibrate across the unlock pads and it makes noise and everything when receiving texts, can even answer calls if you know exactly where to push accept call.
It's the strangest thing.
Looks like a broken mainboard from the drop. Or perhaps cracked screen near the connection to the mainboard.
Not Resolved
VeeDaub said:
Was this ever resolved? My friends phone did the exact same thing the other night, you can still feel it vibrate across the unlock pads and it makes noise and everything when receiving texts, can even answer calls if you know exactly where to push accept call.
It's the strangest thing.
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Replaced the bazel/Screen/LCD, still same issue.
As I said: broken mainboard....
Same friend I was talking about earlier, exact same issue, he had his old phone he was using and just recently we found the issue, it had mild water damage from snow getting in his pocket right around the display connector inside, so we cleaned it up with alcohol, made some colors at the bottom but then would go black again, we took the logic board out, reflowed it in stages on each side so everything was good, tried it again, exactly half the screen (right side) worked perfect, so finally, brought it in, they said the display was faulty and replaced the phone under warranty.
So, conclusion, we didn't touch the display, Bell said the display was broken and just replaced his phone.
We only touched the logicboard and we got it half working, if we knew a better method of reflowing a mobile logic board (chips on both sides so you can't reflow the same way as laptop motherboard) so it was a lot harder but we probably could have fixed it if we kept at it and knew more about what size of the logic board needed the reflow the most
We used a bunch of clay if anyone is wondering, worked it in out hands till it was very plyable, make a pile slightly bigger then logic board, push board flat I to clay so it holds the underside chips pressed and in place, reflow top, repeat once cooled, it got half the screen working from a phone that had physical water damage and corrosion on the display connector so, this will probably work for you.
I read conflicting info on how to open the tabpro. My daughter's TabPro 8.4 is bootlooping. I want to resolder battery connector and possibly replace battery if it turns out to be in need of replacement. Any authoritative answer whether to open from front, separating glass from bezel, or remove the back? Thanks!
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
To me, the back was the easiest to open. Just use a (plastic) prying tool and start from the MicroSD card slot. By turning the prying tool slightly while inserted, you'll pop out the plastic tabs that hold the backcover attached. Just mind that the tabs are stiffer around the 3.5mm jack and the usb port.
The battery connector is at the back anyway, so once you pop off the back, you have access to any parts you need.
1. I did not compare, but opening the front of 8.4 was quite easy and there was minimal risk to break the latches.
2. There's no need to resolder battery just for to get rid of bootlooping. Use power and volume keys to enter recovery or download mode and do a wipe or reflash it.
3. There's usually no need to open device to decide if the battery needs replacement. What do you expect to find there to make the decision?
I just did this today for my tab pro 8.4 (was not charging and got random bootloops). I followed the vid the link below (I got it from another thread on here but I am afraid I can't find it right now)
https://youtu.be/lEVFYQksmxM
Was very easy to do if a little nerve wracking taking it apart ... I just took out the battery and put it back in and it seems to have sorted the charging issue ... Yet to see if it solved the random bootloops, only time will tell ...
Ian
Hi Folks,
I recently dropped my phone in water. Put the phone in uncooked rice for 2 days, removed sim tray, put it under direct sunlight., tried everything I could possible to dry it. After 4 days, powered on the device, it turned on fine and most of the things working as normal. I did a hardware test with *#808# and most of the tests are passed.
But Speaker, Mic (also the headphone jack) and Vibration isn't working any more. I also noticed that it is charging fine but discharging very fast, even the battery stats shows 100 to 70% as a vertical line. So, I guess battery needs to be replaced. Other than that, on normal use it is heating up.
I did some google search and few forums says, the speaker and vibration connector goes under battery and connect to the top of motherboard. Considering battery is screwed up. I guess the connector is removed or damaged may be.
Has anyone faced the same problem before or anyone can advice something?
_Saul said:
Hi Folks,
I recently dropped my phone in water. Put the phone in uncooked rice for 2 days, removed sim tray, put it under direct sunlight., tried everything I could possible to dry it. After 4 days, powered on the device, it turned on fine and most of the things working as normal. I did a hardware test with *#808# and most of the tests are passed.
But Speaker, Mic (also the headphone jack) and Vibration isn't working any more. I also noticed that it is charging fine but discharging very fast, even the battery stats shows 100 to 70% as a vertical line. So, I guess battery needs to be replaced. Other than that, on normal use it is heating up.
I did some google search and few forums says, the speaker and vibration connector goes under battery and connect to the top of motherboard. Considering battery is screwed up. I guess the connector is removed or damaged may be.
Has anyone faced the same problem before or anyone can advice something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't dry a phone completely without opening it. So if you are upto it, open it up (provided you are out of warranty) and disconnect all the connectors and clean them with alcohol or other suitable liquid, leave it to dry and then reassemble.
It's hard to guess exactly what happened inside, but it seems there are two possibilities:
- it could be that your top (main) board is damaged, which causes malfunction of connected bottom board OR
- you may have damaged both parts of the phone...
Either case, repairs won't be cheap, motherboard is the most expensive part of the phone.
I would suggest disassembling the device and inspecting internals. Corrosion should be visible.
Check some teardown videos (recommend Jerry Rig Everything or iFixit) before doing anything if you haven't yet.
Sent from my OnePlus 3 using Tapatalk
Thank you @Explorer23 and @tnsmani will do a tear down to check for visible damage part if any.
Took the phone to OP service centre, the repair guy opened it in-front of me for diagnosis. The phone was in dry condition but there were traces of water deposits. He checked few things and suggested that needs to replace mother board as there was no signal coming to speaker receiver and this will cost ~17k.
For me replacing motherboard for such a huge cost isn't of any worth.
Any suggestion if it can be repaired in someway or shall I start to think about selling/exchanging it online.