Develop Bugs

How to replace the data port

Hey guys-- got back from the t-mobile store and they told me the data port is dead (from water damage). It turns on with a fresh battery fine, but apparently I'm getting an error code. That code is probably that the data port is messed up because I can't charge my battery. I'm assuming I have to replace it. Does anyone know of a video tutorial or something that will show me how to do it?
thanks.

the chances of the data port being physically damaged by water is very slim- I think they are trying to tell you the circuitry is faulty. If you had ripped the charger out and bent or broke the port, then I could see it- but water cannot bend or break that way and corrosion is unlikely unless its been sitting a while.
Back to the original subject though, I just replaced a faulty USB port on my friends Moto Q. It wasnt bad, but you need a very small pencil iron (I use a station) and good eyes, otherwise you will bridge the tiny connections and be fubar'd.

gospeed.racer said:
the chances of the data port being physically damaged by water is very slim- I think they are trying to tell you the circuitry is faulty. If you had ripped the charger out and bent or broke the port, then I could see it- but water cannot bend or break that way and corrosion is unlikely unless its been sitting a while.
Back to the original subject though, I just replaced a faulty USB port on my friends Moto Q. It wasnt bad, but you need a very small pencil iron (I use a station) and good eyes, otherwise you will bridge the tiny connections and be fubar'd.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you find the port to replace it with...

find a bricked one on ebay or something..or someone selling one with a cracked screen etc...use it for parts

welp, i've never soldered... guess you gotta learn sometime. ports are bout 25 bucks... Guess I have a new hobby. Or maybe I should just buy an external battery charger... soldering sounds more fun though. Yeah, what i meant by getting an error code is when i plug in the charging cord into the cell phone, I get a red light instead of yellow/orange. But, I have to push up on the cable where i insert it into the port to get anything. So, its not dead, but either dying or drunk....... drunk from oil.... which it swam in... and got sick from. vegetable oil, not motor oil... which would be a waste of oil. Anyways, thanks for the replies and if you stumble upon a vid for the dash, please post it. I found some on blackberries, but not an excaliber.

sorry browser problem (double posted)

my friend sourced his usb port from Mouser (P/N 538-67503-1020) for $1.12 each. I still have one (he got a spare) but I dont have a dash to take apart and compare the pins. I assume they are all the same generic port, but the pin spacing could differ
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=7zcQ9RRVJlhHWuXYKEhKMg==

that's pretty sweet speed. I bookmarked that webpage (dunno why really). I could just always link from here; but anyway, I received a new battery that I ordered before the geniouses at t-mobile told me that a red light is an error code, my old battery is perfectly fine, my data port is broken, and no... a new battery won't fix it. *** what's my point you ask?***
They don't know jack fecal matter. I just popped in the new battery and 1) my phone turned on, 2) my charging light turned orange, 3) my plug doesn't need adjusting to charge the phone, and just now 4) my phone has signaled to my through a pretty green light that the new battery just finished charging.
So, to recap, the guys at t-mobile said my port was fried and that all my problems were due to that. My theory was that oil (and come to find out water) damage caused the battery to malfunction and thereby refused to allow a current to charge it resulting in the errors. Turns out, I was right.
Thanks speed and all for your replies. If I need a cheap miniusb port in the future, I now have a good source. Now, Anyone know if a new lcd will fix the splotchy marks on my screen (look like dark puddle spots). I'll post a pic in a new post in a minute.

Yah you can grab a new LCD off ebay (fairly cheap) and then go to youtube and youtube "fix dash screen" and there is a tutorial on there that will guide you on replacing your screen.

just make sure its the lcd thats the problem- the outer clear part that you can touch is separate, and comes with the case. Mine are scratched to hell on both my Dash's but I refuse to buy new cases to fix them

i dunno what's up anymore
I don't know what to think of this thing anymore. This morning it wouldn't turn on, even though I had the green light on the device as it was plugged in all night. So, I kept fiddling with it hoping it would turn on so I could have ATT do a remote hard reset. Well... it wouldn't cooperate. So, I left it alone. Then this evening I was about ready to bury it and I tried the power button one last time and it turned on. But, the battery was really low and I got the red light again when I plugged it in. I guess the battery got a bit of a charge in itself just sitting there. So, perhaps the t-mobile guys do know what they're talking about. Well... i did actually get the orange light while it was on for that sweet minute, which should mean its charging, but I guess its not actually charging the battery. I suppose the last way to go is external charger. I'll probably pick one up off ebay for 15 bucks.

[Q] Transplant Surgery - T999 mainboard into SCH-I535/SPH-L710 body

I have been looking around, but no place specifically answers this exact question.
Long story short I have a t-mobile Mainboard that I want to save from a phone with a broken screen that I have. From what I understand the other components work as well (camera, speaker and whatever else). I understand that I can purchase an LCD/digitizer with assembly and carefully place the components into there to make sure the phone works but it would cost me around $120 for the parts + whatever time it takes me to replace the components. My second option which I am asking to see if it is indeed possible, would be to take the mainboard from the T-999 and replace it with a SCH-I535/SPH-L710 that I would purchase (most likely with bad ESN - costing me the same amount) but it would mean that I would not have to deal with screen replacement and I have a higher likelihood of having a good quality screen. (I have never been happy with the quality of screen replacements from ebay). It makes no difference if it doesn't work, but someone with the experience of working with different models should be able to answer this question.

Why not buy T999 with bad ESN ?

Perseus71 said:
Why not buy T999 with bad ESN ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am trying but T999 with bad IMEI's are not only more expensive but a lot of them also have broken screens so im back where I started. I am just stating these two because I can find them cheaply and easy to find as well.

In that case, you could try taking the Display & Digitizer from those phones and put it in your phone. Don't try to transplant your motherboard into that phone unless you have a good reason to do so.

It functions but you have to use a case and...
I did this a about a week ago. Here's how it went.
I bought a SPH-L710 without realizing it did not have a sim card slot. The screen had one slight crack and everything else worked.
After receiving it, I bought a T999 with a cracked screen/ non-working digitizer and everything else worked (the seller heard sounds when it powered on.)
I disassembled both and put the T999 mainboard on the L710 screen digitizer. Most of the screws line up. The two screws that don't line up are:
1. at the bottom near the TOP of the USB port. The hole in the board and the hole in the digitizer are on opposite sides of the USB port. This cannot be remedied, where the screw goes through the board, there's no hole on the digitizer, and you can't put a hole through the mainboard to meet up with the one on the digitizer. You could try but I think there's a circuit on the board there, or not enough room.
The two holes on the SIDES of the USB port will line up only when you squeeze thee mainboard and digitizer together while installing the screws.
2. on the side near the power button, there is a screw that goes there, but on the T999 mainboard near where the screw goes, there's something that looks like a button cell battery about 3mm wide and 1.5-2mm tall. It stuck in a hole made for it in the T999 digitizer, but the L710 digitizer does not have a recess in it to fit this button cell so the T999 mainboard sticks up slightly, enough that if you put the screw in the hole in the side, then the power switch on the mainboard will not stick down far enough, and when you push the power button on the outside of the case, it won't engage the power switch on the mainboard. To remedy this, leave out the screw on the side of the mainboard.
Because the mainboard is slightly bent due to the button cell battery, you need to have a case that compresses the phone together so the power button will engage the power switch properly. I used a "waterproof" chinese knockoff case I got on e$ay for $13. It's not waterproof, but the phone didn't get ruined even thought I tested the waterproof-ness of the case before I put the phone in and it passed, so maybe a genuine otterbox case would have been better. But the case does OK to compress everything enough that the power button and power switch work all the time. With the case on, you can't tell the phone is missing screws internally.
Verdict: everything works properly except the camera doesn't focus properly, it only works in Macro focus, I don't know if I should take the camera module from the L710 and try it or if it won't move because of the stress of the mainboard being slightly bent all time due to the button cell battery. It did focus properly for the few few days I had it.
One other issue: I can't get Windows 7 to recognize it, so I can't use Odin to root it, I've tried all the drivers, I've tried all the modes. I have no idea if this is a Windows issue or if it is somehow caused by the Frankenstein's Monster-ness of the hardware.
So yes, it can be done, with a "rugged" style case and with a few issues. I have no experience with the I535 at all.
I hope this helps,
rollinns

I could not have asked for a better reply. Thanks so much!!!!

Glad I could help
I was looking for this info about 3 weeks ago and didn't really look that hard since i was pretty sure everyone would give me the same replies you got before I replied. But for my entire life I've been asking questions no one else has asked, so I'm used to just having to do stuff to get answers. In this case, it helped you too.
If I had to do it over again, I think I'd try the whole process w/o the L710 parts. Maybe the I535 will work, and I still could drill a recess into the L710 digitizer if I had a mill, but I don't have access to mine now and won't for a while, and I'm not sure I trust the drill press to not crack the digitizer.
Also - NFC is less reliable than it was with my S2, meaning it doesn't work all the time - it's harder to beam contact info to another phone, but QI wireless charging works flawlessly.
My hope is to put some NFC tags in the truck along with a wireless charger so I can listen to internet radio as I drive, i.e. - a tag to turn off wifi, turn on bluetooth, turn on the app that streams music to my JVC car stereo and turn on the "TuneIn" app. and then I can still charge my phone without worrying about wires.

[Q] Please help! Strange problem with my HOX

Yesterday i dropped my device from one feet. It turned off and i turned it on.
Now lower part of screen and capacitative buttons dont work. i will attach a image(non-working area outlined in red)
My warranty has expired so i cant exchange it for a new one. What should i do? Can i fix it by myself?
Please help me

Fycola123 said:
Yesterday i dropped my device from one feet. It turned off and i turned it on.
Now lower part of screen and capacitative buttons dont work. i will attach a image(non-working area outlined in red)
My warranty has expired so i cant exchange it for a new one. What should i do? Can i fix it by myself?
Please help me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Only thing I can think of is that somehow it has damaged the cable from the touchscreen or the tiny wires that feed into the cable without damaging the screen. I came across a brand new screen I was replacing once for someone that had a similar problem where the bottom left hand corner wouldn't respond to touch unless there was firm pressure on the screen to create contact, and this was a brand new screen. It could also be that the touchscreen connector needs to be pushed back onto the board if it's come a bit loose.
If this is the problem, you can fix it by yourself although I'd have a good look around youtube, there are heaps of DIY videos of how to replace screens. If you do go down this path I recommend you replace the touchscreen/LCD/LCD frame in one go, as it's generally already pre- assembled the only thing here is that there are 3 brands of LCD's HTC used with the phone and they aren't all compatible, and you can only tell by pulling down your phone and looking at the LCD flex cable colours, and the other thing is that the screens that are available aren't always the same quality as the original. If this sounds to hard your best bet is to take it somewhere and diagnose the problem just in case it's something else

N7 screen went black

Yes, like it turned itself off but it did not go off as I was still getting audible email notifications. Tried everything speaking with Google support and then even Asus support who told me to go to their website and fill in an RMA form. This unit is 13 months old-out of warranty. There is nothing on the form relevant to the nexus to fill in so you cannot continue with it. So I am stuck right now and do not know what to do if anything. Any help would be appreciated.

claypoole said:
Yes, like it turned itself off but it did not go off as I was still getting audible email notifications. Tried everything speaking with Google support and then even Asus support who told me to go to their website and fill in an RMA form. This unit is 13 months old-out of warranty. There is nothing on the form relevant to the nexus to fill in so you cannot continue with it. So I am stuck right now and do not know what to do if anything. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Normally, 3 things can go wrong:
1. The cable is not connected properly. This could be caused by any impact. You take off the back cover and reseat it. It's the amber cable that runs the length of the battery. Be sure to check both ends. The one on the motherboard's end is in plain sight. The other end is hidden beneath the daughter board at the bottom of the tab, so you need to remove it to inspect the connection.
2. The backlight which illuminates the display went out. You can check this by turning the tab on and taking the tab to a dark room and shine a flashlight on the screen. If you can see the icons or the boot page, the back light is bad. The bad news is that you'd have to remove the lcd/touchscreen unit to replace the backlight. 10 times out of 10, when you do this on an original tab, you will break the touchscreen. Since it's glued to the lcd with LOCA (liquid optically clear adhesive), you will have to separate them, fix the backlight, buy a new touchscreen, then reassemble the whole thing. Most people would find it simpler to just buy a new lcd/touchscreen combo. If you're game though, I can give you an lcd back with a working backlight strip.
3. The video circuit on the motherboard went belly up. To test this, you need a micro usb to HDMI adapter like the one here , and a newer lcd TV. If nothing shows on your TV, the GPU is probably dead, in which case the only practical solution is to replace the motherboard since it's impossible to replace the GPU at home.
Good luck.

graphdarnell said:
Normally, 3 things can go wrong:
1. The cable is not connected properly. This could be caused by any impact. You take off the back cover and reseat it. It's the amber cable that runs the length of the battery. Be sure to check both ends. The one on the motherboard's end is in plain sight. The other end is hidden beneath the daughter board at the bottom of the tab, so you need to remove it to inspect the connection.
2. The backlight which illuminates the display went out. You can check this by turning the tab on and taking the tab to a dark room and shine a flashlight on the screen. If you can see the icons or the boot page, the back light is bad. The bad news is that you'd have to remove the lcd/touchscreen unit to replace the backlight. 10 times out of 10, when you do this on an original tab, you will break the touchscreen. Since it's glued to the lcd with LOCA (liquid optically clear adhesive), you will have to separate them, fix the backlight, buy a new touchscreen, then reassemble the whole thing. Most people would find it simpler to just buy a new lcd/touchscreen combo. If you're game though, I can give you an lcd back with a working backlight strip.
3. The video circuit on the motherboard went belly up. To test this, you need a micro usb to HDMI adapter like the one here , and a newer lcd TV. If nothing shows on your TV, the GPU is probably dead, in which case the only practical solution is to replace the motherboard since it's impossible to replace the GPU at home.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did anyone else read this response and want to hit the edit button, and then type in huge letters "Time to buy a new Nexus!"

Thank you for your detailed reply. I checked the cable from the MB at both ends. Seems OK on the connections. I am unable to turn on the tab to check the backlight. That's about as far as I can go with it at this point. I am thinking that this tab is toast and to make matters worse, the abominably bad Asus customer service. I am considering replacing this with a Samsung and be done with it.

claypoole said:
Thank you for your detailed reply. I checked the cable from the MB at both ends. Seems OK on the connections. I am unable to turn on the tab to check the backlight. That's about as far as I can go with it at this point. I am thinking that this tab is toast and to make matters worse, the abominably bad Asus customer service. I am considering replacing this with a Samsung and be done with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, don't lose hope! Samsung is not any better specs or quality-wise (especially the display). If you're gonna butcher the thing anyway, might as well find out. I was gonna suggest to lend you a used lcd for you to test, but I realize people for some reason are extremely wary of gratuitous offers so I won't. But if you value it, try to get a screen with a good lcd but broken digitizer on Ebay. They wouldn't cost more than 15 bucks. Once you can determine it's not the motherboard, we can go from there. I can guide you on the replacement part if you want. I'm just a hobbyist, but I have messed around with this thing enough to tell.

Graph, you are kind to offer. I also have noticed that the glass has a few cracks in it as well. At this point, I can't turn it on. It seems like when I punch the on button in there is extremely little movement if at all. So I don't know if it is still on which I don't this it is or it shut itself off. When it was black screen and on, I was getting my email notifications audibly but since yesterday-none. I am not looking to spend big bucks on these things as essentially all I do mostly is use for reading. I do want to stick with android if I replace this. I know samsung does not have as good resolution but seems to get good reviews from users.

Black screen, only backlight works. Everything else is ok.

Hi
Sorry for my english, I'm hungarian, this is the best I can do.
So I bought a cheap (but not too cheap) SM-P905, but I can't get the screen to work properly.
The touch layer, the spen, the backlight works well, I managed to mirror the screen on my pc and everything else seems to be okay.
I got off the back cover, I tried to unplug and reattach every flex cable, even the battery. I tried to look everything under magnifying glass to see what could be the problem.
The lcd flex connector looks like this under my lens.
(Upload it in the next post, not working from the android app)
I tried to clean it with a needle, but it still looks like it is corroded or melted.
Is it possible that replacing this connector will get the screen back to normal? (I found flex connector replacement on the internet)
Or is it possible to repair it with some jumpers or something like this?
Is it melted because of some shorted circuit somewhere else, or because of a bad micro capacitor?
How and where can I locate and resolve this problem (s)? Maybe is it still the lcd that is simply dead and I can't bring it back to life?
I dont want to buy a screen, and a motherboard (neither only one of them )
Thank you for your help!

Okay the forum doesnt let me to insert links or photos, because I'm new here -.-
/s/53oab9sykbihn32/20151021_175009.jpg?dl=0 write dropbox dot com in front of link

https://www.dropbox.com/s/53oab9sykbihn32/20151021_175009.jpg?dl=0
In my opinion it died!!

I hoped for better opinions
I wanted to know how this thing can die?
It has to be caused by something.
Bad resistor/capacitor? Is it on the motherboard or on the lcd's circuitboard?? Or is it only the corroded flex connector??
I dont want to throw the whole tablet in the trash. Everything else is just operating fine.
If nobody can answer this, where should I write, where people can help with these very small components / resoldering / measuring what gone wrong here?

Alan-B said:
In my opinion it died!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So today I measured the pins in worst condition. There are 2 pins that I tought can cause the problem and looks corroded. (Number 5 and 9 from the right) Both of them !are not used!. (There is a total of 3 pins that are not used on the connector/cable)
They are not lead through the flex cable, they have no function here.
So the problem comes from somewhere else, but I still don't know why they look like this.
Maybe I will try to seperate the screen from the body and look at it closer and its connectors/smaller circuit boards.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using XDA Free mobile app

Hmm, that pic does not make me think its a corrosion problem. At best, it can lead to a finicky connection, but there seems to be enough there for proper electrical contact. If this were a headphone jack, for example, I would say apply pressure near the cable to see if the headset works properly, and if it does, then I know its a cable problem. No idea if you can try to apply pressure to the cable and see if the LCD turns on.
If the screen mirrors on the TV successfully, then there are a bunch of Samsung Service Codes you can use to test the LCD. Unfortunately I do not know them for this model, but google should get you the service menu very easily. There is definitely a test in there for the LCD that should give you a better idea what to expect.
If the cable is pretty cheap, I would also just pick up one and try replacing. Nothing to lose! AND if you have access to another identical device, you can try to stick this LCD on that device to see if its the LCD thats the problem or the motherboard.
Lastly, I would want to know if the glass on that LCD has ever been replaced. If they did a glass only replacement, its possible they overheated the LCD ... OR used too much LOCA glue that shorted the connectors.
Many possibilities, so I wouldn't call it a day yet. First, look for the service menu, thats the best place to begin.

I will try the service codes.
Unfortunately I don't have more devices. The easiest way would be to test the identical parts on a working one, but I don't know anyone who would risk his/her tablet for this
The other thing I can do is to get another lcd-glass unit from ebay or from ifixit and try it. If the problem was the lcd, it should work, I'm happy, but if its black, I will have (maybe) 2 working lcd units for sale. Or I have to get a new motherboard (sounds expansive).
I don't think that they replaced the glass on this device, it looks very used and scratchy, so it was working before.
Thank you for taking your time for me and answering my dumb questions!!
Sent from my SM-N9005 using XDA Free mobile app

There are more good news than bad, so I'm very happy.
So 1-2 days ago I started to get off the screen to see if I can seperate the LCD from the receiver. Turned out its not that hard. The only hard thing is to get it off the body in one piece. Lots of heating with a hair drier, and a LOT OF PATIENCE. If you can get it off in one piece you are on your way.
Seperating the glass from the LCD is very easy, did it in 10 minutes, I don't think it needs heating...
So I did it, then I saw some water damage (white things) on the back side of the LCD. There is a small board here too, so I cleaned the white thing off with some alcohol.
Then I put the lcd back and voilá, Its WORKING!!!
The only problem is that I damaged the touch screen glass, so I need to order a new one, but its under 20$ so no problem.
Thank you all for your help, I hope that I finished here
Sent from my SM-N9005 using XDA Free mobile app

Good to know! Thank you for the update

Other solution is remove battery five minute and reconnect battery