Develop Bugs

How to tear open the A100 and switch out the microphone module

Alright so by demand and as a newcomer gift to XDA, I will show you how to open up the Acer Iconia A100 tablet and how to replace the crappy microphone they provide with it, this thread is going to have pictures and is going to need a bit of organization skills and some soldering skills , so let's start
Before beginning note: make sure to work on a towel or something soft as the tablet will be upside down, I didn't use one and I got pretty bad scratches on my protector, as you will see in the last picture.
BEFORE BEGINNING NOTE #2 YAY!: I am in no way responsible of any damage to your device, your life, your marriage, your emotions, your cream cheese bagel order at Tim Horton's that wasn't discounted 18 cents, or your cat. So do this at your OWN risk.
Before beginning note #3: This will void your warranty....DUH. But I really don't care about mine because my slogan is "I VOID WARRANTIES "
Things you will need:
1) Set of small philips screwdrivers
2) Soldering iron
3) Solder (optional, not necessary as the mics have solder on them already)
4) Something to pry the plastic open with (I used my nail but you can use a flathead screwdriver...etc)
5) Another microphone you are going to use (preferably from a webcam/ headset, as they need to be the exact size or close to the original one)
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Now let's get to work.
Acer A100, great tablet, crappy battery and crappy mic.
In the next few images, I will pry off the plastic sides of the tablet, don't worry if you feel like they bend, just run your finger across and under the pieces until you hear all the snap ins snap out.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side:
Left side:
Alright, now that all the sides are off, let's get to the screws, there are 5 screws you have to get off, in these pictures you will see where they are.
Bottom side:
Right side:
Top side(NO SCREWS HERE, CARRY ON)
Left side:
Well now I really don't have to say it cause it's really obvious, grab your screw driver and get to work on these screws, make sure you put them on the side after you take em' out.
NOW FOR THE FUN PART , Really opening it up, get your nail ready, or whatever you're going to use for prying the plastic apart, and start SLOWLY prying the 2 pieces apart, CAREFULLY!
And now, completely take off the back cover (Don't worry, there's nothing connected to it, it's just an antenna)
AND BEHOLD, THE INTERNALS! (and that damned battery.....)
Alright now don't get too excited (I learned this the hard way...), there's a few things you must do first, look around and get familiar where everything is, and DISCONNECT THE BATTERY CONNECTOR!(Warning: as soon as you disconnect the battery, the whole tablet will shut down COMPLETELY, so make sure you save anything you haven't saved like game progress etc...then unplug it)
Now the left side is where the good stuff is at, so ignore everything else and just go to the left side.
Notice there is 3 connectors, the Microphone connector (black), some other connector (white and black), and some other connector (yellow), all of these have to go out, and once they are out there are 2 screws holding that small chip down in place, one black and one silver, these 2 have to go out too.
First connector (white and black), just open the small black tab and pull the flat thing out, should be really easy:
Second connector (yellow), this thing just pulls off the board, just easily lift it up:
and now remove the 2 screws and put them aside:
And now really gently pull the small board out, might need some wiggling around but it'll come out, it will be obstructed because the microphone is still in its place, but just lift the microphone out, it slides right out
So I accidentally deleted the rest of this post and lost all the images, but its pretty straight forward, just desolder the microphone, solder a new one on and pop everything back into place, make sure to put the battery connector on last and close up the tablet.
Enjoy your new microphone and hope this wasn't too long, please use the thanks button if it helped you

Man, As soon as I am able to risk opening up my A100 I so want to do this. Thanks, not only for doing it but for taking the time to take pics and post it all. You Rock!

You're very welcome, I had many more pics assembling it back, but I accidentally deleted them and lost all of it haha

Hey do you think this mic might work out? or do you have a part# for the one you used, or from what model webcam you took it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement...950292?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item4ab6c51954

Well I tested 3 mics from 2 webcams and one headset, the headset was the Xbox live one and it sucked crap, and the 2 Logitech webcams were Logitech V-UM14 and V-UBC40, I settled for the one from the ubc40 as it seemed better than the um14.
About the Nokia one, I don't know if it would work as there are no solder points and you gotta take into consideration the size, both my webcams and the headset and the tablet had mics that were really close in size
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk

Nice, ok I'll scour the interwebz to get one. I don't really need it for now... but I know I'll get bored one of these days and I'll give this mod a try. Thanks.

Well if you ever do it, post which mic you use and if it works or not.
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk

great job man! time to find me a mic! whoop!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium

You are very welcome, feel free to tell everyone how it goes with the new mic
Sent from my A100 using Tapatalk

Mic Dimensions
Anyone have the Mic dimensions? I'm going to try and order one from Digikey while I perform a screen repair on a friends tablet in the next week or two.
Having the dimensions and what type of connection used will help select the correct one. Is it a surface mount or are wires running to it?
Thanks

THANKS
My daughter dropped hers on the power plug and the power plug was fouled inside. I was worried I would not be able to replace the power adapter and sure enough, after reading your post with picks I realized I could buy the adapter for $15 and replace it myself. Worked like a champ! Again thanks for the picks, it really answered how to take it apart.

My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks

superfaker said:
My acer iconia a100 wont charge or power up (maybe because of a one meter fall)
do you think if i remove and reconnect the battery it will boot up ?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1

pio_masaki said:
Only if its disconnected, otherwise not likely, if its under the one year warranty try that first.
Sent from my Nexus 7 - JBSourcery 4.1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your reply !
I bought it in november 2011 so the warranty ended
I opened the a100
I remove the battery connector then pushed the power button several times (5 to 30 seconds)
i reconnect the battery & the powersupply to see if it will charge or power on > Didn't worked
so i was desperate, thinking of destroy the **************** tablet but i reassemble it
i retried to power on with the power button.....blue led on...acer a100 is booting
it's working for now, reset the tablet ....wait n see......

This is very interesting, that you would do this, ive contemplated it but ive sooner used a headset when necessery. I have a phone now though. Im gonna loom into revamping the battery. Now thatd be a mod
Sent from a Soviet base in Indiana

So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris

airbus318 said:
So is it fairly simple to replace just the battery itself? ie, no soldering for the battery?
Thanks
Chris
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I think there are a few screws that hold it down and a plug. So once you open it up it is pretty easy.

Thanks will attempt.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

External Mic
Perhaps a silly question, but how difficult would it be to drill a small hole in the plastic near the microphone and solder wires to the mic location? And what would the max length of wire possible? Just rough guesses, I know it's pretty hard to be specific on stuff like that. Reason is that I have mine installed in my car as a head unit and was curious if I could run wire from the tablet to a mic mounted in the roof/headliner so that I could issue voice commands in a normal volume. I'd post a pic of my install but I don't have enough posts.

What could happen if i disconnect the other connectors first instead of the battery connector?

[Q] Flickering screen problem

Hi All.
I hope that anyone will be able to assist me. I have the Note 10.1 (2014) P-605. After a month with the tablet the screen started to flicker intermittently. Is would do it for a few seconds then go away.
At first I thought it was a problem with my smart cover as it seem to be better if I take it out of the cover. I have since replaced the cover and worked without it and while it has been better it is still there.
I have rooted the tab and thus I can send it back to Samsung.
I have tried apps to disable the magnet cover and still nothing.
I have also tried other roms (Stocky and Revolution) but still have the problem.
Has anyone else have/had the problem and is there a solution to this very irritating issue
Thank you in advance

Best thing to do is reseed the display ribbon. Power off the device, remove back panel, the ribbon on the left overlapping the battery is the display ribbon.

tls. said:
Best thing to do is reseed the display ribbon. Power off the device, remove back panel, the ribbon on the left overlapping the battery is the display ribbon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is there a good manual on how to open the note? Don’t want to do any damage ?

tls. said:
Best thing to do is reseed the display ribbon. Power off the device, remove back panel, the ribbon on the left overlapping the battery is the display ribbon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is there a good manual on how to open the note? Don’t want to do any damage ?
what I am not sure of , is that it never does it in the bootloading or in recovery.

You can seperate the piece of plastic (backside) from the "silver" frame, or just seperate the silver frame from the main body/display - they are just clips, just be easy. Use a credit card or a tool seperation.
Eliminate the most obvious problem (ribbon cable), if persists maybe an underlying hardware issue. More then likely its just the ribbon cable as the mainboard is not really flush with battery which can lead to the ribbon coming loose.

LMGray said:
is there a good manual on how to open the note? Don’t want to do any damage ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=49595697

I have the exact same problem with my tab it's something that comes and goes I hope it's the ribbon and not GPU. Coz I also rooted my device and wount b able to take it back. If you guys find a solution please let me know.
Will try to reseat the ribbon tonight. Will give feedback tomorrow

No Luck
I opened my tablet last night, remove ribbon then reinserted it but no luck screen still flickers.

TheVirus1 said:
I opened my tablet last night, remove ribbon then reinserted it but no luck screen still flickers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is not good news. I wonder if anyone else has this problem or is there a way that I can send it back to Samsung?

LMGray said:
That is not good news. I wonder if anyone else has this problem or is there a way that I can send it back to Samsung?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My personal opinion I think it's not the LCD but the GPU, because my screen display artifacts like that of a dying PC GPU.

TheVirus1 said:
My personal opinion I think it's not the LCD but the GPU, because my screen display artifacts like that of a dying PC GPU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It that something I can have replaced?

I had the same problem. The display started flickering, then after I switched it off and on again, the display stayed black, although I could still hear incoming notifications. I sent it in for repair. In the repair log, they told me that a cable was replaced. Since I received it back, it has been working without any problems.
The repair was very quick here in Germany. I sent it in on a Monday and received it back the same week on Friday - that's really quick! I could also check the status online.

Its the LCD ribbon cable that is loose and its at bottom of the ribbon cable that need to "tighten up". Can put electric cable over so it wont become loose again.Might need few tries to do it correct.
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I have been getting horizontal artifacts when using hardware acceleration for videos since the 4.4 update myself. I'm thinking the update may have changed clock speeds or something.

dt33 said:
Its the LCD ribbon cable that is loose and its at bottom of the ribbon cable that need to "tighten up". Can put electric cable over so it wont become loose again.Might need few tries to do it correct.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the advice.
It does seem strange that it never happens in the boot animations. Only in android itself.
what is the best way to open the tablet without damage? The back or the front.
Thank you in advance

LMGray said:
Thank you for the advice.
It does seem strange that it never happens in the boot animations. Only in android itself.
what is the best way to open the tablet without damage? The back or the front.
Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It happens again yesterday, after the tab got lights hits/shaking etc.... past months and the screen starts to show symptons of flickering. But this time I didnt wait until it goes total black, since I know what causing the problem.
Just open the backcover with fingernails (or whatever tools needed, like creditcard but fingernails works best and fastest to open with ) and this time I just needed to remove ribbon cable from zif connector and reinsert it again. Then jsut be sure push a little at bottom of the LCD ribbon cable too. The problem went right away. :victory:

dt33 said:
It happens again yesterday, after the tab got lights hits/shaking etc.... past months and the screen starts to show symptons of flickering. But this time I didnt wait until it goes total black, since I know what causing the problem.
Just open the backcover with fingernails (or whatever tools needed, like creditcard but fingernails works best and fastest to open with ) and this time I just needed to remove ribbon cable from zif connector and reinsert it again. Then jsut be sure push a little at bottom of the LCD ribbon cable too. The problem went right away. :victory:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you
I have opened the Tablet and for two days everything is going great. Thank you all for all the help.

New Charging Method - 0%--> 100% in 40-50 minutes

Hey guys, what's up?!
First and foremost, I want to say, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE TO WHATEVER MAY HAPPEN. This method is working smoothly for me and I hope it helps you two.
Ok, so recently, I found out that my phone isn't charging with the normal USB cord anymore. Like I put it in, and the LED lights up, but it's not charging at all. After trying many different chargers and USB cords, I realised that the problem is with the phone. I would keep it in charging for hours, and not a single percent goes up, it goes only down. So I wanted a new way to charge my phone and so I came up with this. After figuring it out, I realised that it charges my phone sooo much faster than with the normal cord. PLEASE FOLLOW EVERYTHING I SAY, AND MAKE SURE TO READ THE TROUBLESHOOTING SECTION AFTER THE GUIDE.
___--NOTE--___
1. You may want to have a backup USB cord. But if you follow this guide precisely, you won't need it.
2. Have patience and and time
3. Again, I am not responsible for anything that may happen to you, your phone, your house, your life or your mental state.
___--THE GUIDE--___
1. Unplug your USB cord from the charger.
2. Hold the end of the USB cord that actually goes into your phone.
3. Cut it off with a pliers as shown below
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4. Peel back the rubber coating for approximately three quarters of an inch
5. Cut off this rubber coating
6. Move all the little wires to one side and cut them off with the pliers aswell
7. Remove the aluminium coating around the coloured insulated wires.
8. Move the white woollen string to one side and cut it off
9. Move the white insulated wire to one side and cut it off.
10. Move the green insulated wire to one side and cut it off.
11. Now you should be left with a black insulated wire and red insulated wire.
12. Cut off three quarters of a centimeter of the red insulation of the red wire. This is hard, make sure you cut only the insulation and not the wires inside.
13. Cut off three quarters of a centimeter of the black insulation of the black wire. This is hard, make sure you cut only the insulation and not the wires inside.
14. Roll up the little metal wires of both the black and red wire so they look like this:
15. Now the cord is ready. Take the back cover off your phone.
16. Take out the battery to see this ( note, the phone I am showing this on is not an xperia M, because I was taking the picture on the xperia M. However, it still looks similar and this tutorial works for pretty much all androids!!)
17. Note that there is a + and - on the battery. The two small pins in front of the + is where you will put the red wire. The two small pins in front of the - is where you will put the black wire. SO REMEMBER, RED IS + AND BLACK IS -
18. Now push the battery back into place onto the wires
19. Plug the USB cord back into the charger and turn it on
20. After about 40-50 minutes. REMOVE THE CORD FROM THE CHARGER, take out the battery, remove the wires, reinsert the battery and turn the phone on. VOILA
___--TROUBLESHOOTING--___
1. You will notice that your charger will be very hot. This is normal and ok. Just let it be
2. You will know that your phone has reached 100% when the charger begins to cool down or has already cooled down
3. You can use your phone while it's charging, just make sure not to tangle the wires at the back.
4. I cannot stress this enough, make sure to take the USB cord out of the charger when finished charging.
Ok guys, if this helped you don't forget to hit that thanks button!!

lol this tutorial is like a fix it macgyver style. If you still have the warranty of your phone you may want to take it to a service centre to get your connector/motherboard replaced. Try running this to check out the problem and what is causing it.

@Remorcer It's not about just fixing the phone anymore. As the title says, this method charges the phone at least three or four times faster than normally. So personally, I still prefer this!
Sent from my C1905 using XDA Free mobile app

Does the battery get hot?

Remorcer said:
Does the battery get hot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope. Just the actual charger
Sent from my C1905 using XDA Free mobile app

Anyone wild enough to try it?

No, thanks.
I'm pretty sure this will damage battery in the long term:
1) Since you're feeding the battery directly, there's no circuit to cut off power after the battery is fully charged and most chargers will keep a low current, even after the battery is fully charged. Forget your phone plugged and bad things may happen.
2) If something goes wrong during the charging, your phone would interrupt the charging process to prevent issues, that won't happen here since you're feeding the battery directly.
3) You're feeding the battery with 5V while the charging voltage of most batteries (including the BA900 commonly used in Xperia M) is around 4.2V (and that may vary depending of the battery temperature). This voltage variation is correctly calculated by the phone accordingly to the temperature of the battery during the charging process and that won't happen when you feed it directly. In the long term, this also degrades your battery life and may render it unchargeable at all.
4) You're feeding 5V directly in the battery and in the phone board too, while most ICs have tolerable input voltages, in the long term this may also damage phone's board or other sensible ICs since it's expecting something around 3.7-4.2V and you're giving 5V.

mbc07 said:
No, thanks.
I'm pretty sure this will damage battery in the long term:
1) Since you're feeding the battery directly, there's no circuit to cut off power after the battery is fully charged and most chargers will keep a low current, even after the battery is fully charged. Forget your phone plugged and bad things may happen.
2) If something goes wrong during the charging, your phone would interrupt the charging process to prevent issues, that won't happen here since you're feeding the battery directly.
3) You're feeding the battery with 5V while the charging voltage of most batteries (including the BA900 commonly used in Xperia M) is around 4.2V (and that may vary depending of the battery temperature). This voltage variation is correctly calculated by the phone accordingly to the temperature of the battery during the charging process and that won't happen when you feed it directly. In the long term, this also degrades your battery life and may render it unchargeable at all.
4) You're feeding 5V directly in the battery and in the phone board too, while most ICs have tolerable input voltages, in the long term this may also damage phone's board or other sensible ICs since it's expecting something around 3.7-4.2V and you're giving 5V.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know you're probably right about everything you just said. However. I leave my phone to charge in this method over night. It charges to full and stops after that, normally. It may have longterm effects on the battery, however, I cannot charge my phone and other way. My warranty has ran out, so this is pretty much all I have. I've been using this method for around 3 months now. I don't have battery drainage. My phone works completely fine.
Sent from my C1905 using XDA Free mobile app

It Works
Thanks. It works.... I am wild enough to do.:highfive:

Tab flickers, becomes very hot, reboots on battery under 30%

Tab s 8.4 flickers, becomes very hot, reboots on battery under 30%.. please help!!
Sent from my SM-T705 using XDA Free mobile app

Flickers and reboot is usually due to an bad battery connection or bad battery , tablet getting hot is normally an badly behaving app or system process, try the free version of Watchdog, go into settings (hold left soft button) and tick monitor phone processes and any other process, and after a while it will give you an list of apps that are using your cpu and you can tell the app to kill the app or process when the cpu usage gets above a reset level.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.zomut.watchdoglite&hl=en_GB
John.
danishshahidd said:
Tab s 8.4 flickers, becomes very hot, reboots on battery under 30%.. please help!!
Sent from my SM-T705 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

danishshahidd said:
Tab s 8.4 flickers, becomes very hot, reboots on battery under 30%.. please help!!
Sent from my SM-T705 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This problem obvious comes from cracked battery connector. It may cause hot or even burning smell. Re solder the battery connector will fix it permanently.
If your tablet's battery connector is badly cracked, tap hard on the back cover your tablet will shut down immediately.
A temporary fix: place a thick piece of paper on top the battery connector and secure it with a tape. A direct pressure on the back cover will temporary close the gaps
of cracked solders. This method only works if this connector is not badly cracked at its solder joints.

Can you show me what battery connector looks like.. and how can we resolder a plastic connector??
Sent from my SM-T705 using XDA Free mobile app

Beut said:
This problem obvious comes from cracked battery connector. It may cause hot or even burning smell. Re solder the battery connector will fix it permanently.
If your tablet's battery connector is badly cracked, tap hard on the back cover your tablet will shut down immediately.
A temporary fix: place a thick piece of paper on top the battery connector and secure it with a tape. A direct pressure on the back cover will temporary close the gaps
of cracked solders. This method only works if this connector is not badly cracked at its solder joints.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you show me what battery connector looks like.. and how can we resolder a plastic connector??
Sent from my SM-T705 using XDA Free mobile app

A slightly large photo of an T705 you can see the battery connector at the top of the battery with the red, green and black wires coming off it.
http://imgur.com/SRAzdYg
A T705 owner the other day said that the battery connector came away from the motherboard and he had to solder it back in place.
John.

danishshahidd said:
Can you show me what battery connector looks like.. and how can we resolder a plastic connector??
Sent from my SM-T705 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Male Black Battery connector is the one soldered to main board, this connector need to re solder, not the female white connector connected with cables.
This is the top view, you can see how female connector plugged to male connector on main board
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If you are pulling battery cable so often, they may not make good contact with pins of male battery connector, this is also a problem.
I cut the plastic of female connector in order to see how they make contact
This case is a bad contact, look at two pins on the right side, they sit in the middle of opening of cable's terminals
You will see intermittent power as well as flickering due to this bad connection between battery and main board.
After re solder the male connector and problem still persists, this is where you should look.
The only fix is pushing the opening of the tip closer or adjust it so it makes good contact with pin of male connector like second picture.
Adjustment of the connectors to make a good contact with pins on male connector. You need magnified glass to do this.
How to do this with a thin knife
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PU0OoZSbma8&feature=youtu.be
This connector may not look exactly like yours but they are similar in all Samsung tablets.

thanks a ton.. got it done today and the problem is solved
thanks a ton.. got it done today and the problem is solved
Beut said:
Male Black Battery connector is the one soldered to main board, this connector need to re solder, not the female white connector connected with cables.
This is the top view, you can see how female connector plugged to male connector on main board
If you are pulling battery cable so often, they may not make good contact with pins of male battery connector, this is also a problem.
I cut the plastic of female connector in order to see how they make contact
This case is a bad contact, look at two pins on the right side, they sit in the middle of opening of cable's terminals
You will see intermittent power as well as flickering due to this bad connection between battery and main board.
After re solder the male connector and problem still persists, this is where you should look.
The only fix is pushing the opening of the tip closer or adjust it so it makes good contact with pin of male connector like second picture.
This connector may not look exactly like yours but they are similar in all Samsung tablets.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

thanks a lot
the problem is solved by resoldering.. LED flash is also now working
Tinderbox (UK) said:
A slightly large photo of an T705 you can see the battery connector at the top of the battery with the red, green and black wires coming off it.
http://imgur.com/SRAzdYg
A T705 owner the other day said that the battery connector came away from the motherboard and he had to solder it back in place.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Beut said:
This problem obvious comes from cracked battery connector. It may cause hot or even burning smell. Re solder the battery connector will fix it permanently.
If your tablet's battery connector is badly cracked, tap hard on the back cover your tablet will shut down immediately.
A temporary fix: place a thick piece of paper on top the battery connector and secure it with a tape. A direct pressure on the back cover will temporary close the gaps
of cracked solders. This method only works if this connector is not badly cracked at its solder joints.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ditched my tab for 6months since I started experiencing
-Random shut down
-Screen flicker
-Sudden drop in battery percentage
-Prolonged battery charge time.
(I couldn't use my tab even for 10mins without experiencing any of the above)
Now, I've been using my tab for 2hours without any problems after applying the fix you mentioned.
Even the battery is charged by 1% every 2 minutes.
Thanks!!!!

good that this help i hope that this dont happen to mine

Screen flickering issue has resulted to a permanent green tint Tab S 8.4

I do have one of the issues where the Tab S 8.4 would suddenly flicker and shutdown. It has been restarting for months, then after several months a green tint appeared throughout the whole display. At first, the issue of the green tint would easily be solved by inserting a bit of pressure on the top area of the display, it keeps on persisting every hour and all I do is insert a bit pressure to return to its original color. Finally, after 2 days the green tint has become permanent. The display would only return to its original color if you keep on holding on the top area and applying pressure OR if I directly point the air conditioning to the tablet for it to be very cold. I don't know why the tablet would return to its original color once it gets very very cold but hopefully it could mean that the display isn't completely broken.
I would just ask if anyone here has the same problem(or other device with amoled). Hopefully you could help me shed light to my problem. The display is completely fine if you would apply some pressure. Presumably other factors could be making the display go green.

It is most likely loose connectors, like display cable and battery cable, A lot of 8.4" owners have problem with flickering screen that was caused by a bad battery connection, I suppose the display cable could come loose as well, You can find guides on youtube on how to open the 8.4" so you can check the connectors, remove and replace them and see if it makes a difference.
John.

You're not alone...
carlchan31 said:
I do have one of the issues where the Tab S 8.4 would suddenly flicker and shutdown. It has been restarting for months, then after several months a green tint appeared throughout the whole display. At first, the issue of the green tint would easily be solved by inserting a bit of pressure on the top area of the display, it keeps on persisting every hour and all I do is insert a bit pressure to return to its original color. Finally, after 2 days the green tint has become permanent. The display would only return to its original color if you keep on holding on the top area and applying pressure OR if I directly point the air conditioning to the tablet for it to be very cold. I don't know why the tablet would return to its original color once it gets very very cold but hopefully it could mean that the display isn't completely broken.
I would just ask if anyone here has the same problem(or other device with amoled). Hopefully you could help me shed light to my problem. The display is completely fine if you would apply some pressure. Presumably other factors could be making the display go green.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine is suffering the same display problem. It is not linked to the display connector, but there must be a defective connexion somewhere on the screen surface... I haven't tried to completely disassemble the thing to see what's going on after the screen connector.
Replacement display are quite expensive.... So any other solution is welcome.

Tinderbox (UK) said:
It is most likely loose connectors, like display cable and battery cable, A lot of 8.4" owners have problem with flickering screen that was caused by a bad battery connection, I suppose the display cable could come loose as well, You can find guides on youtube on how to open the 8.4" so you can check the connectors, remove and replace them and see if it makes a difference.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure if the cable of the LCD can be replaced but if there is any way I'll be really thankful

sunbowch said:
Mine is suffering the same display problem. It is not linked to the display connector, but there must be a defective connexion somewhere on the screen surface... I haven't tried to completely disassemble the thing to see what's going on after the screen connector.
Replacement display are quite expensive.... So any other solution is welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try to replace the battery with a brand new one. Do you think it would work? I was really hoping that it would be fix without replacing the LCD

carlchan31 said:
I'll try to replace the battery with a brand new one. Do you think it would work? I was really hoping that it would be fix without replacing the LCD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A bad battery or bad battery connection usually makes the screen flicker, I have never seen it make the screen change colour, I would says you have a faulty display or a loose or faulty display cable.
John.

Mine did this shortly after I bought it back in 2015. Screen was replaced under warranty, and no problems since.

i use mine as a permanent car install. when temperatures fall below zero and i start my car the screen is green or better all greys turn to a light green. as soon as the tab heats up a bit the screen behaves as normal again. dont know if this helps in any way.

I have the same problem, if someone finds a solution for this.
Please let us know tia
I am talking about a solution other than warranty or screen replacement

Found this display pin for tab s 8.4 https://www.screenfix.ie/product/sa...t700-t705-display-2x20-pin-fpc-connector-d37/
Would this work if I bring this to my local technician?

Edit: i just realised that OP's tablet is a tab s 8.4 (Facepalm)
well.. it might be related ?... the 8.4 have a strange pad too :/
--------------------------------------------
It might be high temperature related, i think.
When i was making my heatsink mod i removed a kind of rubber pad that is sitting in the back of the PCB, with no apparent function.
This pad links the PCB with the back cover, that has a thin aluminium foil (for isolation and temp dissipation, i believe)
After some minutes on, my screen started flickering like crazy with a strange color balance (it was not all green, but the colors are far from normal) after a while the tab always restarted.
Putting the pad back solved the problem.
I think that it explain the fact it get better if you make pressure on the back. probably your back cover is a bit loose, not making proper contact with that PCB.
Even that it doesn't looks like a thermal pad, it have some important function apparently... maybe a cheap workaround samsung used for a screen controller overheating issue ?
Image showing what i'm talking about:
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