Develop Bugs

Wireless qi charging - works for GNex

I tried this under a TPU case on my GSM GNex and it works!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qi-wireless...S_Cell_Phone_PDA_Chargers&hash=item2eca5c000c
Edit: there are cheaper listings for it, search and get it for less.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app

Interesting.

No way to install it using the stock battery cover?

Well I'm sure you could, depends on how thick it is. Perhaps a stock extended cover. I don't know about the extended battery though. It's pushing stock cases as it is.
I'm not 100% sold on the USB port and flex cable. I guess if you use a TPU case, this would mostly be concealed but I've seen these where they actually attach between the battery and battery contact inside the phone (double sided flex cable with copper connections on both side). That would be ideal and I'm sure it would work.
Similar to this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Standard-Wireless-Charging-Receiver/dp/B00BCC2B1Q/ref=pd_sim_cps_16
It just bends to go in between the battery and phone contacts. These are also meant to go under the battery cover. Our batteries use 4 prongs, not sure if this one listed is compatible. I would buy one in a heartbeat if someone posted a link to one that works.
My N7 is Qi capable and I have a Qi Charger, but it goes largely unused. I'd use this in my bed room though for night charging. I'd like to keep the USB port open still for charging normally in my car or when traveling like normal.
Edit----------------------
I don't see any actual easy way to do this. The one I posted before actually uses battery contacts under the battery cover that is specifically for this. The Galaxy Nexus does NOT have these. However with a little engineering, it should be just as easy. The battery has 4 contacts. The battery is labeled with (+) and (-) pins. One could probably grab one of these for the Galaxy S3, turn it sideways so the contacts are close to the battery pins, and use some kind of copper foil to wrap around the battery tabs and to the Coil leads.
I use an extended battery, which leaves me with little room. I have been wanting to experiment with cutting one of my backplates in half to just cover the top portion around the camera, giving me some additional room for stuff like this. Probably wouldn't work unless I used one of my stock standard batteries. Losing a few mAh for Qi might be a good trade off though.
The mod would actually adhere to the battery itself, thus no physical modifications are done to the phone. So I could always pick one of these up, hack a battery, and test it.
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player911 said:
Well I'm sure you could, depends on how thick it is. Perhaps a stock extended cover. I don't know about the extended battery though. It's pushing stock cases as it is.
I'm not 100% sold on the USB port and flex cable. I guess if you use a TPU case, this would mostly be concealed but I've seen these where they actually attach between the battery and battery contact inside the phone (double sided flex cable with copper connections on both side). That would be ideal and I'm sure it would work.
Similar to this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Standard-Wireless-Charging-Receiver/dp/B00BCC2B1Q/ref=pd_sim_cps_16
It just bends to go in between the battery and phone contacts. These are also meant to go under the battery cover. Our batteries use 4 prongs, not sure if this one listed is compatible. I would buy one in a heartbeat if someone posted a link to one that works.
My N7 is Qi capable and I have a Qi Charger, but it goes largely unused. I'd use this in my bed room though for night charging. I'd like to keep the USB port open still for charging normally in my car or when traveling like normal.
Edit----------------------
I don't see any actual easy way to do this. The one I posted before actually uses battery contacts under the battery cover that is specifically for this. The Galaxy Nexus does NOT have these. However with a little engineering, it should be just as easy. The battery has 4 contacts. The battery is labeled with (+) and (-) pins. One could probably grab one of these for the Galaxy S3, turn it sideways so the contacts are close to the battery pins, and use some kind of copper foil to wrap around the battery tabs and to the Coil leads.
I use an extended battery, which leaves me with little room. I have been wanting to experiment with cutting one of my backpates in half to just cover the top portion around the camera, giving me some additional room for stuff like this. Probably wouldn't work unless I used one of my stock standard batteries. Losing a few mAh for Qi might be a good trade off though.
The mod would actually adhere to the battery itself, thus no physical modifications are done to the phone. So I could always pick one of these up, hack a battery, and test it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have broken my Gnex's micro USB port recently and I am going to change the whole part:
A broken usb port, believe me is very annoying and I am thinking of adding qi charging capability to my Gnex to reduce the workload my my new port.
I don't know if there will be a risk of overcharging if a qi coil is attached directly to the battery, as a qi receiver coil converts oscillating magnetic field to 5V only.
How about adding a LiPo charging circuit that will cut off when the battery is full:
This exact board measured 10mm(w) X 12mm(l) X 2mm (h), a minor back cover mod is need to install that.

I've waited so long fo this
Thanks for the tip!

I actually did this to my GNEX. Although not how I pictured before.
I actually took a soldering iron and melted the plastic under the battery door where the pogo pins come in. From there I soldered 2 balls of solder over the outer pin contacts. From there I just laid the Qi pad on it to make contact and taped in place.
I used a slim case, so it required I cut one of my battery doors in half and used a standard battery. Extended battery would kinda work but the case would buldge at the bottom making a poor fit.
In the end, I glued the Qi pad to my feather case with poxy. With the case on, it kept the contacts connected. All that was visible was a small hole under the battery door. Worked great. Don't even have to take it apart.
Sent from my VS980 4G using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

Um, it's not bad. I charged at night. I used a 750mAh Qi Pad, so it was faster then a slow charge but not quite as fast as a quick charge.
It was super easy. I had pictures up on Swappa when I sold it. If I can find the listing I'll post the link. It was probably the only GNex with Qi.
Sent from my VS980 4G using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

http://swappa.com/listing/WZV666/samsung-galaxy-nexus-verizon
There's my post with pics of the Qi mod. Took a soldering iron and melted some plastic under the battery door, exposing the 3 pins. 2 solder balls on the outer pins. I squeezed a small piece of toothpick over the middle pin to provide separation. Then just laid down the pad and taped it. Took 5 min.
I squeezed all mine down to fit into feather case. You'll see the pics in the post. Pretty easy to follow.
Sent from my VS980 4G using XDA Premium 4 mobile app

I didnt know that that is even possible by an easy upgrade Thx! I will try it.

New Charging Method - 0%--> 100% in 40-50 minutes

Hey guys, what's up?!
First and foremost, I want to say, I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE TO WHATEVER MAY HAPPEN. This method is working smoothly for me and I hope it helps you two.
Ok, so recently, I found out that my phone isn't charging with the normal USB cord anymore. Like I put it in, and the LED lights up, but it's not charging at all. After trying many different chargers and USB cords, I realised that the problem is with the phone. I would keep it in charging for hours, and not a single percent goes up, it goes only down. So I wanted a new way to charge my phone and so I came up with this. After figuring it out, I realised that it charges my phone sooo much faster than with the normal cord. PLEASE FOLLOW EVERYTHING I SAY, AND MAKE SURE TO READ THE TROUBLESHOOTING SECTION AFTER THE GUIDE.
___--NOTE--___
1. You may want to have a backup USB cord. But if you follow this guide precisely, you won't need it.
2. Have patience and and time
3. Again, I am not responsible for anything that may happen to you, your phone, your house, your life or your mental state.
___--THE GUIDE--___
1. Unplug your USB cord from the charger.
2. Hold the end of the USB cord that actually goes into your phone.
3. Cut it off with a pliers as shown below
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4. Peel back the rubber coating for approximately three quarters of an inch
5. Cut off this rubber coating
6. Move all the little wires to one side and cut them off with the pliers aswell
7. Remove the aluminium coating around the coloured insulated wires.
8. Move the white woollen string to one side and cut it off
9. Move the white insulated wire to one side and cut it off.
10. Move the green insulated wire to one side and cut it off.
11. Now you should be left with a black insulated wire and red insulated wire.
12. Cut off three quarters of a centimeter of the red insulation of the red wire. This is hard, make sure you cut only the insulation and not the wires inside.
13. Cut off three quarters of a centimeter of the black insulation of the black wire. This is hard, make sure you cut only the insulation and not the wires inside.
14. Roll up the little metal wires of both the black and red wire so they look like this:
15. Now the cord is ready. Take the back cover off your phone.
16. Take out the battery to see this ( note, the phone I am showing this on is not an xperia M, because I was taking the picture on the xperia M. However, it still looks similar and this tutorial works for pretty much all androids!!)
17. Note that there is a + and - on the battery. The two small pins in front of the + is where you will put the red wire. The two small pins in front of the - is where you will put the black wire. SO REMEMBER, RED IS + AND BLACK IS -
18. Now push the battery back into place onto the wires
19. Plug the USB cord back into the charger and turn it on
20. After about 40-50 minutes. REMOVE THE CORD FROM THE CHARGER, take out the battery, remove the wires, reinsert the battery and turn the phone on. VOILA
___--TROUBLESHOOTING--___
1. You will notice that your charger will be very hot. This is normal and ok. Just let it be
2. You will know that your phone has reached 100% when the charger begins to cool down or has already cooled down
3. You can use your phone while it's charging, just make sure not to tangle the wires at the back.
4. I cannot stress this enough, make sure to take the USB cord out of the charger when finished charging.
Ok guys, if this helped you don't forget to hit that thanks button!!

lol this tutorial is like a fix it macgyver style. If you still have the warranty of your phone you may want to take it to a service centre to get your connector/motherboard replaced. Try running this to check out the problem and what is causing it.

@Remorcer It's not about just fixing the phone anymore. As the title says, this method charges the phone at least three or four times faster than normally. So personally, I still prefer this!
Sent from my C1905 using XDA Free mobile app

Does the battery get hot?

Remorcer said:
Does the battery get hot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope. Just the actual charger
Sent from my C1905 using XDA Free mobile app

Anyone wild enough to try it?

No, thanks.
I'm pretty sure this will damage battery in the long term:
1) Since you're feeding the battery directly, there's no circuit to cut off power after the battery is fully charged and most chargers will keep a low current, even after the battery is fully charged. Forget your phone plugged and bad things may happen.
2) If something goes wrong during the charging, your phone would interrupt the charging process to prevent issues, that won't happen here since you're feeding the battery directly.
3) You're feeding the battery with 5V while the charging voltage of most batteries (including the BA900 commonly used in Xperia M) is around 4.2V (and that may vary depending of the battery temperature). This voltage variation is correctly calculated by the phone accordingly to the temperature of the battery during the charging process and that won't happen when you feed it directly. In the long term, this also degrades your battery life and may render it unchargeable at all.
4) You're feeding 5V directly in the battery and in the phone board too, while most ICs have tolerable input voltages, in the long term this may also damage phone's board or other sensible ICs since it's expecting something around 3.7-4.2V and you're giving 5V.

mbc07 said:
No, thanks.
I'm pretty sure this will damage battery in the long term:
1) Since you're feeding the battery directly, there's no circuit to cut off power after the battery is fully charged and most chargers will keep a low current, even after the battery is fully charged. Forget your phone plugged and bad things may happen.
2) If something goes wrong during the charging, your phone would interrupt the charging process to prevent issues, that won't happen here since you're feeding the battery directly.
3) You're feeding the battery with 5V while the charging voltage of most batteries (including the BA900 commonly used in Xperia M) is around 4.2V (and that may vary depending of the battery temperature). This voltage variation is correctly calculated by the phone accordingly to the temperature of the battery during the charging process and that won't happen when you feed it directly. In the long term, this also degrades your battery life and may render it unchargeable at all.
4) You're feeding 5V directly in the battery and in the phone board too, while most ICs have tolerable input voltages, in the long term this may also damage phone's board or other sensible ICs since it's expecting something around 3.7-4.2V and you're giving 5V.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know you're probably right about everything you just said. However. I leave my phone to charge in this method over night. It charges to full and stops after that, normally. It may have longterm effects on the battery, however, I cannot charge my phone and other way. My warranty has ran out, so this is pretty much all I have. I've been using this method for around 3 months now. I don't have battery drainage. My phone works completely fine.
Sent from my C1905 using XDA Free mobile app

It Works
Thanks. It works.... I am wild enough to do.:highfive:

Htc One M8 not charging after battery replacement

Hi guys, 5-6 days ago i decided to swap battery on my htc one m8 (the battery was kinda weak with 3h SOT and I bought phone from aliexpress so i thought this was right thing to do), i bought a new one, went to internet for tutorials (watched bintek's one) and i disassembled my phone, took a picture which is kinda blurry, then replaced battery and reassembled everything to match the picture. I didn't put case back on, i wanted to test if everything was working and i plugged it in htc original charger (later tried atleast 3-4 others just in case), and i got flashing red LED light with battery icon and a bolt in it (i flashed google RUU and gpe rom so my icon is a bit different from original) and it doesn't start charging at all. I tried disconnecting the battery and putting it back onto the charger and i got the same reaction so I think the contact on battery is the problem, phone doesn't recognize it has battery but it gets warm (i tried leaving it for 24h and it got warm). I then tried putting original battery back into the phone and I got exact same reaction, screen that suggests battery is fully drained or not charging at all. Now I thought I messed something up in disasembly so I redone everything 3 or 4 times, carefully following the instructions on internet and still I get nothing. If you guys could help me identifying the problem, i just have no idea what it could be, i too tried holding all the buttons combination and when i hold power button- the red led stops flashing for couple of secs, the screen turns off, then it starts flashing again and the battery icon is there. Sadly i couldn't link pictures because i still don't have enough posts so maybe i can pm you guys if you need anything, thanks

Hello
Have the same problem
Did you find what is was?

Maybe the issue is the USB charge port. I have problem before phone not charge due to USB port not working. It need to be replace then charging work again. It cost about $20 to replace it (need to replace the part with USB which connect to motherboard).

Hi! I've this problem too today . After replacing my camera and reassembled my mobile I tried to charge the mobile but it was not charging .Showed battery sign and stuck on it .. So I again took the back case. On left side there is a jumper with screw . I took the screw . Pushed the jumper on the board (You'll hear click sound). Put the screw back and voilla charging again. Try yourself
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I can't find the jumper you are talking about? I see the two screws to connect battery. Is the jumper under that connector? Or, are you talking about the 6 line ribbon cable? I replaced the battery on my HTC one m8 and now it won't charge and I'm getting vertical green stripes down the screen, but I can still see the lightening bolt and the led is blinking amber, like it's charging. NOT! Help please if anyone knows?

plus one
is there any solution looks like we all have the same problem... i also couldnt find that "bumper". problem is same, when put back phone in together... while on charger blinks batery light and theere's batery picture on screen not charging, just icon of battery. and cant turn on while on charger. when plug of charger it turn on. While turned on, plug back in charger phone goes off... any ideas?

The blinking orange light and 0% battery drove me ape **** until it finally dawned on me. The battery ribbon cable has the flat silver terminal with 2 screw holes. On the back side, in the middle, there is a minuscule connector that is supposed to GENTLY click in place. Once it is clicked in place correctly, the holes line up and the screws can be placed in easily - this fixed the non-charging issue.

Thankyou you just saved me a lot of headscratching, my original battery clicks into place but the replacement doesnt, will ask for a replacement battery
sr4381 said:
The blinking orange light and 0% battery drove me ape **** until it finally dawned on me. The battery ribbon cable has the flat silver terminal with 2 screw holes. On the back side, in the middle, there is a minuscule connector that is supposed to GENTLY click in place. Once it is clicked in place correctly, the holes line up and the screws can be placed in easily - this fixed the non-charging issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Pure genius. Thank you all so much. I thought I lost everything on my phone. It was the CLICK!

sr4381 said:
The blinking orange light and 0% battery drove me ape **** until it finally dawned on me. The battery ribbon cable has the flat silver terminal with 2 screw holes. On the back side, in the middle, there is a minuscule connector that is supposed to GENTLY click in place. Once it is clicked in place correctly, the holes line up and the screws can be placed in easily - this fixed the non-charging issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks very much for your post. Your insight about the connector on the reverse side saved me the few strands of hair I have left on my head. I just could not figure out why the phone was behaving in the manner you described after painstakingly replacing the battery! I searched numerous posts and there was no answer. Then FINALY ... I came across your post & the lightbulb suddenly came on; I had missed that seemingly small step! Needless to say I am a very happy camper.

georgemb said:
Hi! I've this problem too today . After replacing my camera and reassembled my mobile I tried to charge the mobile but it was not charging .Showed battery sign and stuck on it .. So I again took the back case. On left side there is a jumper with screw . I took the screw . Pushed the jumper on the board (You'll hear click sound). Put the screw back and voilla charging again. Try yourself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't do **** for me. Still won't charge. Piece of ****. Folded this phone in half and got a Samsung.

When the Battery is discharged too low there is no Voltage on the output, try to charge the battery with a charger (remove isolation and connect direct to cell) and then put 3V (button cell with soldered short wires) on the output in correct polarity to "clear" the bms. Tada, you have Voltage on the output again. Some Batterys are stored a long time and lost charge and the bms tries to prevent deep discharge. On laptops this is often not possible to reset, because the bms deaktivates completely, then the battery is for the trash, although the cells are good. Its a business, sadly. Also that the mobile os gets outdated so quickly. Remember always charge your devices under supervision, when charging, fire can happen in rare cases, and then you want to be there to prevent bad things from happening.

Screen flickering issue has resulted to a permanent green tint Tab S 8.4

I do have one of the issues where the Tab S 8.4 would suddenly flicker and shutdown. It has been restarting for months, then after several months a green tint appeared throughout the whole display. At first, the issue of the green tint would easily be solved by inserting a bit of pressure on the top area of the display, it keeps on persisting every hour and all I do is insert a bit pressure to return to its original color. Finally, after 2 days the green tint has become permanent. The display would only return to its original color if you keep on holding on the top area and applying pressure OR if I directly point the air conditioning to the tablet for it to be very cold. I don't know why the tablet would return to its original color once it gets very very cold but hopefully it could mean that the display isn't completely broken.
I would just ask if anyone here has the same problem(or other device with amoled). Hopefully you could help me shed light to my problem. The display is completely fine if you would apply some pressure. Presumably other factors could be making the display go green.

It is most likely loose connectors, like display cable and battery cable, A lot of 8.4" owners have problem with flickering screen that was caused by a bad battery connection, I suppose the display cable could come loose as well, You can find guides on youtube on how to open the 8.4" so you can check the connectors, remove and replace them and see if it makes a difference.
John.

You're not alone...
carlchan31 said:
I do have one of the issues where the Tab S 8.4 would suddenly flicker and shutdown. It has been restarting for months, then after several months a green tint appeared throughout the whole display. At first, the issue of the green tint would easily be solved by inserting a bit of pressure on the top area of the display, it keeps on persisting every hour and all I do is insert a bit pressure to return to its original color. Finally, after 2 days the green tint has become permanent. The display would only return to its original color if you keep on holding on the top area and applying pressure OR if I directly point the air conditioning to the tablet for it to be very cold. I don't know why the tablet would return to its original color once it gets very very cold but hopefully it could mean that the display isn't completely broken.
I would just ask if anyone here has the same problem(or other device with amoled). Hopefully you could help me shed light to my problem. The display is completely fine if you would apply some pressure. Presumably other factors could be making the display go green.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine is suffering the same display problem. It is not linked to the display connector, but there must be a defective connexion somewhere on the screen surface... I haven't tried to completely disassemble the thing to see what's going on after the screen connector.
Replacement display are quite expensive.... So any other solution is welcome.

Tinderbox (UK) said:
It is most likely loose connectors, like display cable and battery cable, A lot of 8.4" owners have problem with flickering screen that was caused by a bad battery connection, I suppose the display cable could come loose as well, You can find guides on youtube on how to open the 8.4" so you can check the connectors, remove and replace them and see if it makes a difference.
John.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure if the cable of the LCD can be replaced but if there is any way I'll be really thankful

sunbowch said:
Mine is suffering the same display problem. It is not linked to the display connector, but there must be a defective connexion somewhere on the screen surface... I haven't tried to completely disassemble the thing to see what's going on after the screen connector.
Replacement display are quite expensive.... So any other solution is welcome.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try to replace the battery with a brand new one. Do you think it would work? I was really hoping that it would be fix without replacing the LCD

carlchan31 said:
I'll try to replace the battery with a brand new one. Do you think it would work? I was really hoping that it would be fix without replacing the LCD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A bad battery or bad battery connection usually makes the screen flicker, I have never seen it make the screen change colour, I would says you have a faulty display or a loose or faulty display cable.
John.

Mine did this shortly after I bought it back in 2015. Screen was replaced under warranty, and no problems since.

i use mine as a permanent car install. when temperatures fall below zero and i start my car the screen is green or better all greys turn to a light green. as soon as the tab heats up a bit the screen behaves as normal again. dont know if this helps in any way.

I have the same problem, if someone finds a solution for this.
Please let us know tia
I am talking about a solution other than warranty or screen replacement

Found this display pin for tab s 8.4 https://www.screenfix.ie/product/sa...t700-t705-display-2x20-pin-fpc-connector-d37/
Would this work if I bring this to my local technician?

Edit: i just realised that OP's tablet is a tab s 8.4 (Facepalm)
well.. it might be related ?... the 8.4 have a strange pad too :/
--------------------------------------------
It might be high temperature related, i think.
When i was making my heatsink mod i removed a kind of rubber pad that is sitting in the back of the PCB, with no apparent function.
This pad links the PCB with the back cover, that has a thin aluminium foil (for isolation and temp dissipation, i believe)
After some minutes on, my screen started flickering like crazy with a strange color balance (it was not all green, but the colors are far from normal) after a while the tab always restarted.
Putting the pad back solved the problem.
I think that it explain the fact it get better if you make pressure on the back. probably your back cover is a bit loose, not making proper contact with that PCB.
Even that it doesn't looks like a thermal pad, it have some important function apparently... maybe a cheap workaround samsung used for a screen controller overheating issue ?
Image showing what i'm talking about:
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[HELP] Screen Freak Out When Display Small Line Of Pixel / Vertical

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My screen is working perfectly fine i try to test display all type video work just normal but it just flickering these rainbow / vertical line when i come close to let say smaller pixel like display shot with camera ... or picture with smaller pixel dots....

Have you found a solution? I have the same permanent vertical lines.

Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?

xfim said:
Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, good thought, I will open up the phone and check the connections.

Babakkardan said:
OK, good thought, I will open up the phone and check the connections.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You know which one is it, right? The wider one on the bottom. Pry it up (use nails if you wish) and use some alcohol to clean it up.

xfim said:
Maybe the screen connector doesnt have good contact with the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Babakkardan said:
Have you found a solution? I have the same permanent vertical lines.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Abandoned War Place said:
My screen is working perfectly fine i try to test display all type video work just normal but it just flickering these rainbow / vertical line when i come close to let say smaller pixel like display shot with camera ... or picture with smaller pixel dots....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.

jdmst77 said:
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.
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Click to collapse
Baking it isnt a good idea. you might damage working things in the process. Usually the RAM chip is the main problem. Check if it is bent a bit on the edges. To test if ram is the problem, put something (aluminum foil, 1mm thermal pad...) on the chip so that it puts pressure on the disconnected areas and reconnects them.

xfim said:
Baking it isnt a good idea. you might damage working things in the process. Usually the RAM chip is the main problem. Check if it is bent a bit on the edges. To test if ram is the problem, put something (aluminum foil, 1mm thermal pad...) on the chip so that it puts pressure on the disconnected areas and reconnects them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sure, it could damage it, but it didn't. For a "completely broken" blue screened device that I purchased for $22.40 off ebay (solely for the display, to fix another device) I had nothing to lose. if it's not done right, anything can happen but I took extra precautions like folded aluminum foil in a sort of accordion like wave pattern so no points are directly sitting on the metal rack. Left ample time for the board to cool before flipping it and before reinserting it into the phone.
Can't argue with the results and people have been baking logic/motherboards for quite some time now just google it and it doesn't hurt to take extra precautions
EDIT: also after removing from the oven, I placed the board between 2 silicone trivets and lightly pressed them together to re-seat any chips/components, on the board

jdmst77 said:
sure, it could damage it, but it didn't. For a "completely broken" blue screened device that I purchased for $22.40 off ebay (solely for the display, to fix another device) I had nothing to lose. if it's not done right, anything can happen but I took extra precautions like folded aluminum foil in a sort of accordion like wave pattern so no points are directly sitting on the metal rack. Left ample time for the board to cool before flipping it and before reinserting it into the phone.
Can't argue with the results and people have been baking logic/motherboards for quite some time now just google it and it doesn't hurt to take extra precautions
EDIT: also after removing from the oven, I placed the board between 2 silicone trivets and lightly pressed them together to re-seat any chips/components, on the board
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You did a good job then. Anyway, I would bake the board as a last resort. I'd try a few different things before (heating individual chips)

jdmst77 said:
This fix seems radical but it's worked for 2 of my G3s so far ( one with the vertical lines, the other with a Blue screen after power on). It's quite logical when you think about it... Give enough heat to reconnect bad/weak solder points
I removed the logic board, disconnected the WiFi cable, removed the heat syncs/chip shields and baked each side at 385 degrees for 10 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Instead if baking the board, how about putting solder paste on the connectors of the cpu & gpu and heating them with a heat gun? Will it give the same result?
---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:47 PM ----------
xfim said:
You know which one is it, right? The wider one on the bottom. Pry it up (use nails if you wish) and use some alcohol to clean it up.
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Click to collapse
I think I'll take it to a repairman and have him diagnose it... then if necessary he can use a heat gun to reset the solders on the cpu & gpu....
Update:
I took the G3 to a repair shop, we reset the connections and did the resoldering of the gpu and cpu. But no change in the display lines. The technician deduces it is a damaged display, especially since there is a lot of heat on the CPU area on the display now.
Any other solutions I can try before changing the display?
thanks.