I have an Eonon branded RK3188 unit - I replaced an older Pioneer system that a previous owner of the car (2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee) had installed - his setup used a PAC SWC module, which the guys who installed my Eonon used as well - was wondering that since the unit itself seems to have wiring specific to the steering wheel function, if this module is necessary at all? I ask because there on the left side SWC, my middle button mirrors another button, is not recognized independently - I had previously installed a different Android Head Unit, and with that one, the buttons functioned properly -
Jacklad said:
I have an Eonon branded RK3188 unit - I replaced an older Pioneer system that a previous owner of the car (2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee) had installed - his setup used a PAC SWC module, which the guys who installed my Eonon used as well - was wondering that since the unit itself seems to have wiring specific to the steering wheel function, if this module is necessary at all? I ask because there on the left side SWC, my middle button mirrors another button, is not recognized independently - I had previously installed a different Android Head Unit, and with that one, the buttons functioned properly -
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your original car SWC system is resistive then you don't need the box.
halloj said:
If your original car SWC system is resistive then you don't need the box.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that - now how do I know if it's resistive or not? is there a quick test, or a model chart? Thanks for any help - probably dumb questions, but I have no experience with them -
Jacklad said:
Thanks for that - now how do I know if it's resistive or not? is there a quick test, or a model chart? Thanks for any help - probably dumb questions, but I have no experience with them -
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There must be a Jeep Grand Cherokee forum or a ask a dealer.
I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I use SWC without PAC SWC module. You have only to take a couple of wires from the connector under the steering wheel to the radio (yellow connector if I am remember right), disconnecting the original connector.
royalhawk2002 said:
I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I use SWC without PAC SWC module. You have only to take a couple of wires from the connector under the steering wheel to the radio (yellow connector if I am remember right), disconnecting the original connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that info - I'll see what I can find
Jacklad said:
Thanks for that info - I'll see what I can find
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Refer to this diagram (sorry for italian)
royalhawk2002 said:
Refer to this diagram (sorry for italian)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hence, red/yellow should be connected to key1 and red/black should be connected to Key ground. NO box, no nothing.
halloj said:
Hence, red/yellow should be connected to key1 and red/black should be connected to Key ground. NO box, no nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Confirmed! Remember to disconnect the Pin 3 & 4 to the BCM side.
royalhawk2002 said:
Confirmed! Remember to disconnect the Pin 3 & 4 to the BCM side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks so much - I'd the bcm one the connections going to the radio, or part of the car harness?
Jacklad said:
Thanks so much - I'd the bcm one the connections going to the radio, or part of the car harness?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you look at the drawing?
Jacklad said:
Thanks so much - I'd the bcm one the connections going to the radio, or part of the car harness?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you get this going? I figured this out a few months back, myself. My truck (2005 Ram) didn't have SWAC from the factory, but I installed them myself.
What I did was cut the wire going to the MUX (connector behind instrument cluster. I made a jumper to run from the cut wire off the column and made a jumper to get to the head unit. The HU chassis is already grounded via the harness, so there was no need to make a ground. The jumper made a "Y", with one leg going to Key1 and the other to Key2. Really, I guess you could just run one wire and combine the Key wires together as the HU will sort out the resistance.
Jumper-before soldering/heat shrinking.
Done this way, it can easily be restored.
Related
Hi,
My unit has a built in Mic, (little hole on the front).
It sounds like I'm underwater, I've seen a post about cutting capacitors which is beyond my skills.
Is it worth buying an external mic, and wiring it in, assuming there is a port at the back. Or will the result be the same as its all in the circuitry?
Thanks.
As long as you don't make the mod your mic is still going to sound bad. The external mic
is normally in parallel with the built in. One of things you do during the modification is to
separate the internal from the external, hence the removal of the capacitor/Short. Take it to a shop and modify it.
Is it the case in 100% of the KGL HUs? I have a newer Erisin HU and have no C32 on Board so I was a little bit confused if in my case both Microphones run parallelly.
halloj said:
As long as you don't make the mod your mic is still going to sound bad. The external mic
is normally in parallel with the built in. One of things you do during the modification is to
separate the internal from the external, hence the removal of the capacitor/Short. Take it to a shop and modify it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ChrisKay1988 said:
Is it the case in 100% of the KGL HUs? I have a newer Erisin HU and have no C32 on Board so I was a little bit confused if in my case both Microphones run parallelly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since you didn't tell the brand I just went for the symptom. Do you have the same BT-board as in the picture
from the modification thread. It might be another SMD-component in your case. Sometimes it's a capacitor,
sometimes a 0 Ohm resistor.
halloj said:
Since you didn't tell the brand I just went for the symptom. Do you have the same BT-board as in the picture
from the modification thread. It might be another SMD-component in your case. Sometimes it's a capacitor,
sometimes a 0 Ohm resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Brand is Erisin ES 2698V - so a KGL unit. My BT Boards looks similar like that in the picture but differs in the C32 capacitor and in descriptions (I have no descriptions like MIC+ and so on on the Pins). The HU is actually built in my car so I cannot take a pic for you - sorry.
ChrisKay1988 said:
The Brand is Erisin ES 2698V - so a KGL unit. My BT Boards looks similar like that in the picture but differs in the C32 capacitor and in descriptions (I have no descriptions like MIC+ and so on on the Pins). The HU is actually built in my car so I cannot take a pic for you - sorry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you pull it out, beep it from the same pin as in the picture of the BT board. That way you will find
your component, being a cap, short or a = Ohm resistor.
hey,
okay I'll try it. Can you please quote the picture in this thread? I can't find it anymore
Edit: FOUND IT: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=55769802&postcount=3964
halloj said:
When you pull it out, beep it from the same pin as in the picture of the BT board. That way you will find
your component, being a cap, short or a = Ohm resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
halloj said:
When you pull it out, beep it from the same pin as in the picture of the BT board. That way you will find
your component, being a cap, short or a = Ohm resistor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, okay I just disassembled my HU and beeped some components.
I found it finally:
It's C102! the one side beeps at Pin 4 of BT-Module, the other side beeps on microphone "SGN"
I will remove this and bridge the mic with a wire... thanks a lot!
ChrisKay1988 said:
Hey, okay I just disassembled my HU and beeped some components.
I found it finally:
It's C102! the one side beeps at Pin 4 of BT-Module, the other side beeps on microphone "SGN"
I will remove this and bridge the mic with a wire... thanks a lot!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good. Write it down in the BT-thread, your HU brand and the cap-number for others to find it easy. :laugh:
Hello all, I have a Chevy Malibu and I wanted to use the steering wheel control on my eonon GA2114. I have wired ASWC-1 but it didn't give any signal in the learning mode. Any ideas? Anyone did this on GM cars? Thank you.
I am also trying to figure this out, I got a PAC-rg5-gm11 interface which has a blue wire and a 3.5mm headphone plug to retain steering wheel controls, but not sure how to hook that up to the key1 5v, or key 2 5v, none seem to work.
Any luck on this yet? I'm in the same boat with my jeep. Trying to figure out the wiring before everything gets here. The PAC unit has 1 headphones looking jack and 1 blue wire. The eanon radio I'm getting has 2 swc data wires.
dbshane said:
Hello all, I have a Chevy Malibu and I wanted to use the steering wheel control on my eonon GA2114. I have wired ASWC-1 but it didn't give any signal in the learning mode. Any ideas? Anyone did this on GM cars? Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some basic info here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...el-control-t3329989/post65686983#post65686983
using search.
pyraxiate said:
Any luck on this yet? I'm in the same boat with my jeep. Trying to figure out the wiring before everything gets here. The PAC unit has 1 headphones looking jack and 1 blue wire. The eanon radio I'm getting has 2 swc data wires.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you cut off the headphone jack you should have two wires red and black (or possibly white) just connect the red one to one of the key wires (I used key1) on the radio harness.
I just figured that out. Set the canbus to pioneer and it worked perfectly. Wish I saw this post earlier today lol
Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
I have a Pumpkin KD-C0234 3188 A9 quad core unit. Pumpkin answered a question on Amazon asking if it could support their DAB module and they answered no. Most of their other 3188 units do, so I am not sure why. Has anyone got a reliable DAB solution working on one of these?
dab
I have the same unit. I use the Sonichi DAB receiver, £49 at Halfords. You can either have a screen mounted aerial or as I have an aerial signal splitter. I have tried USB dongles but find them not nearly as good as the Sonichi.
Regards
meirion said:
I have the same unit. I use the Sonichi DAB receiver, £49 at Halfords. You can either have a screen mounted aerial or as I have an aerial signal splitter. I have tried USB dongles but find them not nearly as good as the Sonichi.
Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank. Yeah I guess its better to have a separate unit work well than an integrated one not work. Shame. Not sure what is missing from my unit as it has the sockets the Pumpkin unit plugs in to. Maybe libraries not in the ROM or something?
SynC_187 said:
Thank. Yeah I guess its better to have a separate unit work well than an integrated one not work. Shame. Not sure what is missing from my unit as it has the sockets the Pumpkin unit plugs in to. Maybe libraries not in the ROM or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its funny i got the Pumpkin BMW version they said it does not support DAB however inside OEM app its the DAB app so if i buy an external DAB+ i should be good to go. They probably meant that DAB its not installed internally? i dont know its hard to communicate with these Chinese
xterm305 said:
Its funny i got the Pumpkin BMW version they said it does not support DAB however inside OEM app its the DAB app so if i buy an external DAB+ i should be good to go. They probably meant that DAB its not installed internally? i dont know its hard to communicate with these Chinese
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really. You need a later motherboard which is modified for DAB. That's why Pumpkin answers the way they did. Most HU's have had
the app installed for quite some time. You need to confirm with Pumpkin or other sales source your MB is the later version. One hint is no
key-sound, means new MB, but not all of them are DAB-ready. My real life experience.
Found - MTCD Schematic. A most valuable find on russian android car audio forum and attached here.
[Android Car Audio]
The schematic corresponds to a GS Mainboard I have as a spare part. It varies to my JY board in terms of USB operation, with this board OTG is provided for.
This is ridiculously helpful, regardless of what MTCD manufacturer you have. I've had to replace MOSFET's and internally shorted caps in my KGL before, and having a general reference like this would have made the process so much quicker. Cheers!
MbTaNk16 said:
This is ridiculously helpful, regardless of what MTCD manufacturer you have. I've had to replace MOSFET's and internally shorted caps in my KGL before, and having a general reference like this would have made the process so much quicker. Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed! I was astounded to find this. Unfortunately I still wasnt able to get my PX5 board to go into maskrom for OTG flashing, but is probably something I am not doing right. Schematic is absolutely valid and is spot on for MTCD GS.
18/07 - Was able to put PX5 into OTG [LOADER] mode after modifying board.
Thanks @cupi1234
marchnz said:
Anyone with a 4pda account - can you please try and download and attach here - http://4pda.ru/forum/dl/post/9567228/MTCD++Witson-A510-2016-04-28+V01.pdf
[MTCD Witson-A510-2016-04-28+V01.pdf - 4PDA]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
witson
Hi, does somebody knows the wiring of the PB76FSAP-S, an MTCD from Ownice (C500). I am trying to connect a OTS020 tpms to port F. The OTS020 has 4 wires, +, gnd, data and something else. I want to know how the unit supplies power and wich pins are used for data.
Thanks.
747 Driver said:
Hi, does somebody knows the wiring of the PB76FSAP-S, an MTCD from Ownice (C500). I am trying to connect a OTS020 tpms to port F. The OTS020 has 4 wires, +, gnd, data and something else. I want to know how the unit supplies power and wich pins are used for data.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Ownice C500 is not an MTCD unit. Ownice dont make MTCD units, their units are of an entirely different design with totally incompatible software.
Source for Raw Audio Output?
Looking at this schematic on page 10, it appears that the section labeled 'ARM' would be the interface connector from the Android board to the MCU Board.
Following @dazza007 's and @7floor 's posts below, it looks like the raw audio output from the Android Board is available at pins 12 and 13. Without a schematic of the Android Board I can't be sure, but I assume that these should trace back to pins 12 and 13 from the WM8731 Audio Codec chip.
If I'm correct and we could harness these raw line level audio outputs it could give the people that were looking for a clean feed for DSP's and the like.
Full disclosure, I do not have one of these units yet but am looking at a GCS Apex branded unit that appears to be a MTCD KLD model per the merchant website pictures. http://www.subispeed.com/2013-crosstrek/interior/audio-stereo-upgrades/gcs-apex-android-v2-head-unit-w-gps-2013-2016-forester-crosstrek#.WgRiFFuPLIU
dazz007
https://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/mtcb-hardware-development/mtc-sound-controlling-bd37xxx-sound-t3234660
7floor
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=63520630
typos1 said:
The Ownice C500 is not an MTCD unit. Ownice dont make MTCD units, their units are of an entirely different design with totally incompatible software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please enlighten me. It says MTCD in the settings, I have a GS v 2.56 running.
What type of unit is it? According Xtrons it is a PB-76FSFAP-S. What type is it (MCT/B/C/D/E?)
Thanks
747 Driver said:
Please enlighten me. It says MTCD in the settings, I have a GS v 2.56 running.
What type of unit is it? According Xtrons it is a PB-76FSFAP-S. What type is it (MCT/B/C/D/E?)
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it says "MTCD GS" in the MCU field then you have a GS MCD unit.
Xtrons are simply resellers - they buy units from various manufacturers and then give them made up model numbers.
Ownice are an entirely different company that make entirley different units.
i have a GS PX5 Android 6.0 ( now migrated to Oreo) unit, i'd like to know if this board have USB OTG port.
I need to connect a USB/SPDIF Converter , the Matrix X-SPDIF2, and it is Android 8 certified for USB OTG port.
PX5 MX2 Unit No RESET
Hey guys,
I'm half offtopic here, but my thing has to do with the schematics / HW mod (can't open topics due to low post count..)
Just recently bought a replacement for my Opel Astra J '12 and ..
It's a MX PX5 4GB Oreo sold by Witson.
This HU is very specific, because it comes in two parts.
1. Silverbox with the MCU and sockets + 2. Display board with SD slot
My point writing here is, that it doesn't have a reset hole - Oh well yea it has, but behind it there's nothing to push
Desperate as I am, I wanna have a reset button to enter recovery and .. well - if it gets stuck, to recover.
As the silverbox will be behind the dash, my only option would be the display board, where I found two connectors having a PIN def for RST_KEY and now I need instructions how to do the cabling, as I'm not sure how to achieve the reset function.
RST_KEY + GND ?
OTG? Found a little connecter not having a corresponding plug (white 8PIN in IMG_2613)
-> Pictures
abload.de/gallery.php?key=sNOKaV7R
Would be cool if you guys help me out
BR X
Hey Xorit,
I guess you've got the v5754 unit.
The reset line won't help you for recovery, I tried the same and reset is only a hard reset.
I've soldered a cable to key1, gnd and led8v on the display part (under the back cover), put a plug on the end and placed it in the glove department.
I then made a small pcb with a tactile switch connecting key1 - gnd and a 12v led on led8v and gnd, with this you'll be able to enter recovery by holding the button until the led flashes 3 times and then stays on,
Releasing it for a second and the keep on pressing, releasing, pressing for a couple of times.
I'm not sure if you're able to flash any custom rom because the sd slot on these units is a USB converted and not a gps slot.
Btw. I flashed mine with a custom rom by extracting the board, placing it in a xtrons model and then puting it back.
Thanks for that super helpful post!
Just ordered the needed components
Yep, indeed the V5754.
Dunno why they didnt wire any of those support keys.
Thanks mate!
bunnymc said:
Hey Xorit,
I guess you've got the v5754 unit.
The reset line won't help you for recovery, I tried the same and reset is only a hard reset.
I've soldered a cable to key1, gnd and led8v on the display part (under the back cover), put a plug on the end and placed it in the glove department.
I then made a small pcb with a tactile switch connecting key1 - gnd and a 12v led on led8v and gnd, with this you'll be able to enter recovery by holding the button until the led flashes 3 times and then stays on,
Releasing it for a second and the keep on pressing, releasing, pressing for a couple of times.
I'm not sure if you're able to flash any custom rom because the sd slot on these units is a USB converted and not a gps slot.
Btw. I flashed mine with a custom rom by extracting the board, placing it in a xtrons model and then puting it back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
got it working with ur directions!
the button mutes on single press, so it might be possible that the mute button on the steering wheel will do the same..would be weird tho.
might be helpfull for those who have no reset button either!
that new button selects options on single press in recovery and activates on long press, just like the normal reset hole.
->
on the display board you have two flat flexi cable connectors (not in use), where there are pin outs for usb + led + 2 keys.
thanks again!
Hey i have one Question. It says u can Solder it directly to the SOM or with a Flexible flat Cable. I have on my Unit the SOM and this is connectet to the Bigger Board. On this Bigger board i have 2 Flat Flex Connectors. Can i use them for this method?! And if yes wich one is the Right flat connector and where to get a flexible Band cable!? Would help me much if someone helps me because i have done the USB OTG Cable mod and now i have no Recovery and no USB anymore so i can not flash anything. I tried flashing in Android an MCU update but it does not do. Downloaded all to the units internal storage.
Greetz Tom
Nice I'm glad that it did the trick for you
The mute button from your steering wheel won't work because it's connected via canbus (same as cd3/4/600 button panel).
The mute from the soldered button is just a setting in the firmware (you could change it with the steering wheel button assignment settings to whatever you want.
I also added 2 more tactile switches to the key1 line with different resistors (resistor ladder) to be able to use them as hardware buttons (e.g. Vol up/down and power) but haven't had the chance to test it yet.
Xorit said:
got it working with ur directions!
the button mutes on single press, so it might be possible that the mute button on the steering wheel will do the same..would be weird tho.
might be helpfull for those who have no reset button either!
that new button selects options on single press in recovery and activates on long press, just like the normal reset hole.
->
on the display board you have two flat flexi cable connectors (not in use), where there are pin outs for usb + led + 2 keys.
thanks again!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still in the wrong forum !!
typos1 said:
Still in the wrong forum !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I reported - post gone.
Hello!
I've had a wonderful Android 8 radio for two weeks now, I'm almost hapy with it.
And that makes me the steering wheel control to create.
I think it's a Witson PX5 W2-V5538.
But here are the basic data:
Model: px5 (1024x600)
Buildnumber: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 eng.hct20180514.173404 test-keys
MCU version MTCE_MX_V2.83-1
April 26, 2018
CPU 8 core
My car is a FIAT Qubo year of production 08/2016 (after the facelift)
thus a vehicle without CAN bus on the radio, all signals come in analog.
- B +
- GND
- ACC
- ILL
- SWR left
- SWR right
- SWR GRP (GND from steering wheel control)
Between SWR right (SWR left) and GND, I can clearly identify each key with an ohmmeter, but recognizes that radio no signals from the steering wheel control.
Connection took place as follows:
SWR left = K1
SWR right = K2
SWR GRP = GND
Are there solutions to solve the problem?
The manufacturer or seller does his best but it is not enough, I have now updated to another MCU version (2.9.) But unfortunately no change.
The following MCU version has been updated today:
//drive.google.com/open?id=1qELm7uG0PXPk4VVticb6z6pBKsxVc0DE
I think it's a Witson PX5 W2-V5538.
Here is the link to Aliexpress:
//de.aliexpress.com/item/7-HD-1024x600-Pure-Android-Autoradio-For-Fiat-Fiorino-Qubo-Citroen-Nemo-Peugeot-Bipper-DVD-GPS/32816746998.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.432a4c4dpcvFnn
Thank you!
greetings
Gerald
gerald_FS said:
Hello!
I've had a wonderful Android 8 radio for two weeks now, I'm almost hapy with it.
And that makes me the steering wheel control to create.
I think it's a Witson PX5 W2-V5538.
But here are the basic data:
Model: px5 (1024x600)
Buildnumber: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 eng.hct20180514.173404 test-keys
MCU version MTCE_MX_V2.83-1
April 26, 2018
CPU 8 core
My car is a FIAT Qubo year of production 08/2016 (after the facelift)
thus a vehicle without CAN bus on the radio, all signals come in analog.
- B +
- GND
- ACC
- ILL
- SWR left
- SWR right
- SWR GRP (GND from steering wheel control)
Between SWR right (SWR left) and GND, I can clearly identify each key with an ohmmeter, but recognizes that radio no signals from the steering wheel control.
Connection took place as follows:
SWR left = K1
SWR right = K2
SWR GRP = GND
Are there solutions to solve the problem?
The manufacturer or seller does his best but it is not enough, I have now updated to another MCU version (2.9.) But unfortunately no change.
The following MCU version has been updated today:
//drive.google.com/open?id=1qELm7uG0PXPk4VVticb6z6pBKsxVc0DE
I think it's a Witson PX5 W2-V5538.
Here is the link to Aliexpress:
//de.aliexpress.com/item/7-HD-1024x600-Pure-Android-Autoradio-For-Fiat-Fiorino-Qubo-Citroen-Nemo-Peugeot-Bipper-DVD-GPS/32816746998.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.432a4c4dpcvFnn
Thank you!
greetings
Gerald
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The HU came with a canbus unit?
Have you tried "Key Study" on Factory settings? if the SWC keys dont are under canbus controll you can intercept a program key functions here.
P.S.: Also you are wrong about resistive QUBO SWC: all FIAT cars/van after 2010 are all Canbus controlled and in your case all QUBO year 2011 > are canbus controlled, italian models not sure for german versions.
Hope that help
yes, it was a CAN bus box, but it did not work with it.
Therefore, we have the radio connected directly, awie said the ISO plug all voltages and signals directly out.
The on-board system does not even specify a radio, the "old Punto" built in 2011 was different.
According to statement FIAT and original radio manufacturers have all Qubo from year of construction 07/2016 in ISO plug no CAN bus.
From 07/2016, the Daiichi M3003 was installed as a multimedia radio and that can not do anything with CAN.
Is there a possibility to convert the resistance values into CAN telegram?
In order then to convert in a further step into a radio-suitable signal?
greetings
Gerald
gerald_FS said:
yes, it was a CAN bus box, but it did not work with it.
Therefore, we have the radio connected directly, awie said the ISO plug all voltages and signals directly out.
The on-board system does not even specify a radio, the "old Punto" built in 2011 was different.
According to statement FIAT and original radio manufacturers have all Qubo from year of construction 07/2016 in ISO plug no CAN bus.
From 07/2016, the Daiichi M3003 was installed as a multimedia radio and that can not do anything with CAN.
Is there a possibility to convert the resistance values into CAN telegram?
In order then to convert in a further step into a radio-suitable signal?
greetings
Gerald
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try connect you canbus decoder box to HU, then go to factory settings and select "NO" in canbus type menu.
Check if SWC are working.
But before doing this have you tried Key Study on Factory settings?
Also if you old radio is a Blaupunkt for sure has a canbus enabled connector (usually ausiliary connector are above the standard ISO main harness).
There in Italy a lot of car accessories shop sell SWC controll box for QUBO, Fiorino, Croma, Bravo, Punto that retain SWC, Odometric signal, PDC signals, etc etc.; they are "universal box" with a certain number of cable each one for each stereo manufacturer and one special one named "for chineses stereo".
Check this link for FIAT stereos pinout: FIAT Car Radio Stereo Audio Wiring Diagram
P.S.: u need use the only one "key" cable, each one have different volgate range: Key1 or Key2; GND cable need to be connected to any GND in car like any metal part. And after the wires connection you need always use/check the Key Study on factory setting for see if is all working
P.P.S.: another manufacturer suggest this type of connection, check this PDF: Key1Key2GND_Steering wheel.pdf
Hope that help
Hello,
Thanks for the information.
The radio was installed until 07/2016 was a Blaupunkt and it supported directly the CAN-bus control.
From the model upgrade, the Turkish Daiichi M3003 was installed.
From there, the problems start for me.
Attached is my pin layout from the original radio, I currently have the new connected directly and the SWR is as clamped as described in the last description (P.P.S) of you.
At Key1 I measure a voltage of 2.9V and Key2 3.3V.
The menu item for switching off the CAN bus input, there is not in the radio, or I do not think so.
gerald_FS said:
Hello,
Thanks for the information.
The radio was installed until 07/2016 was a Blaupunkt and it supported directly the CAN-bus control.
From the model upgrade, the Turkish Daiichi M3003 was installed.
From there, the problems start for me.
Attached is my pin layout from the original radio, I currently have the new connected directly and the SWR is as clamped as described in the last description (P.P.S) of you.
At Key1 I measure a voltage of 2.9V and Key2 3.3V.
The menu item for switching off the CAN bus input, there is not in the radio, or I do not think so.
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Click to collapse
usually +5V are expected for SWC controls, strange...
For Key Study menu and Canbus settings menu go:
HU settings, factory setting, when prompted insert 126 password then ok, on top menu tap on Key study and there try program your keys or tap on Canbus and look for your car model/manufacturer on dropdown list also try "no" options. Remember after any value modification you need fully reboot you HU.
In meantime please tell me the right model of your old car stereo, i can read the pinout from your photo. I will try to find other infos for you.
Can you post some photos of new HU connectors, harness and if present the pinout sticker (the one on first post is unreadable)?
chinaradio.pdf = connection diagram (wiring harness and pin assignment)
connectionplan1.pdf = Pin assignment RNS
pin.jpg = both the original assignment of the plug faced (RNS and car)
gerald_FS said:
chinaradio.pdf = connection diagram (wiring harness and pin assignment)
connectionplan1.pdf = Pin assignment RNS
pin.jpg = both the original assignment of the plug faced (RNS and car)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sticker photo still not working, but for what i see SWR radio pin dont have a correspondance with KEYS wires from new HU. They are "proprietary" im more convinced that you really need a canbus decoder connection/right HU settings.
I have found the following information:
chinaradio.pdf = connection diagram (wiring harness and pin assignment)
connectionplan1.pdf = Pin assignment RNS
pin.jpg = both the original assignment of the plug faced (RNS and car)
can box pinout.pdf = assignment of the CAN box
and the current MCU version 2.92. I got from the manufacturer.
Currently I have SWR right on K1 and SWR left on K2 clamped, the common Masser of the SWR I put additionally on the mass of the RNS.
The CAN box had the following connections from the vehicle
(The occupancy corresponded to the Blaupunkt layout for Fiat Qubo):
Power supply B +
CanA
CanB
to the RNA went out of the box:
ACC
K1
K2
ILL
went to the vehicle:
external amplifier 12V
and antenna 12V
I installed my RNS on a vehicle built in 2012 - everything worked immediately.
gerald_FS said:
Currently I have SWR right on K1 and SWR left on K2 clamped, the common Masser of the SWR I put additionally on the mass of the RNS.
The CAN box had the following connections from the vehicle
(The occupancy corresponded to the Blaupunkt layout for Fiat Qubo):
Power supply B +
CanA
CanB
to the RNA went out of the box:
ACC
K1
K2
ILL
went to the vehicle:
external amplifier 12V
and antenna 12V
I installed my RNS on a vehicle built in 2012 - everything worked immediately.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 2012 vehicle had the same connection of your 2016, for same i mean exactly corresponding cables?
Try set you HU with factory settings menu like i said some post above.
Deleted - answer see next post
greetings
Gerald
Hello,
The old model has a Blaupunkt radio and the correct ISO pin assignment.
In my vehicle there are the differences. we have already described it.
I have a reset to factory settings about 30 minutes ago, he does not need a PIN input and there was no change.
The voltages that I can measure correspond to CanHigh and CanLow levels .... But unfortunately you can not change the hardware.
Likewise, have ever set a resistance between K1 and GND, even that is not recognized.
As I see it, the radio definitely wants a digital signal.
greetings
Gerald
gerald_FS said:
Hello,
The old model has a Blaupunkt radio and the correct ISO pin assignment.
In my vehicle there are the differences. we have already described it.
I have a reset to factory settings about 30 minutes ago, he does not need a PIN input and there was no change.
The voltages that I can measure correspond to CanHigh and CanLow levels .... But unfortunately you can not change the hardware.
Likewise, have ever set a resistance between K1 and GND, even that is not recognized.
As I see it, the radio definitely wants a digital signal.
greetings
Gerald
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont want to be rude, but are you sure about you read?
I asked you do not perform a factory reset, but enter in unit factory settings menu and work with some of features present.
Also if you transplant the unit on an old car model and the HU is working like expected, there only 2 option:
some wires in car harness are different connected or like i said from my first post you need a canbus decoder unit for retain swc.
Now you need to choice trying my maybe working suggestions or follow your understantements or go to a professional installer and pay him for the work.
Now if there is present somebody that want help you, he's welcome!
bye
Sorry, I misunderstood something, or I wrote it wrong
I have the CAN module, re-installed in the wiring harness and there was no change.
Then I made the mistake that I have made a remnant, because I misunderstood you.
The plug in the "old" car model does not match that in my vehicle.
There are several differences:
Year of construction 2012: B +; GND; Antenna control; CanA; CanB
Year of construction 2016: B +; GND; ACC; ILL; SWR left; SWR right; SWR GRP
The radio can not be switched on in the original layout.
At the manufacturer's direction, in the first step, I have ACC; ILL; B + directly through. the CAN decoder module remains in the harness, was with GND; ACC; B + and SWR right and SWR left supplied.
The RNS works except for the steering wheel remote control.
In the further research I am here with the request and hope that there is a solution.
gerald_FS said:
Sorry, I misunderstood something, or I wrote it wrong
I have the CAN module, re-installed in the wiring harness and there was no change.
Then I made the mistake that I have made a remnant, because I misunderstood you.
The plug in the "old" car model does not match that in my vehicle.
There are several differences:
Year of construction 2012: B +; GND; Antenna control; CanA; CanB
Year of construction 2016: B +; GND; ACC; ILL; SWR left; SWR right; SWR GRP
The radio can not be switched on in the original layout.
At the manufacturer's direction, in the first step, I have ACC; ILL; B + directly through. the CAN decoder module remains in the harness, was with GND; ACC; B + and SWR right and SWR left supplied.
The RNS works except for the steering wheel remote control.
In the further research I am here with the request and hope that there is a solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check this: G.M. Production - FA004.2 - Kit recupero CAN BUS comandi al volante FIAT dal 2007
Hello, Did you figure it out by any means?