Develop Bugs

Headphone jack issue

Hey people, I was wondering if anyone has had the faulty headphones issue. After a few days, my headphones stopped working properly, there was a lot of static and they need to be pushed and held towards the screen to function again. This is going on with 3 pairs so it's a phone fault.Maybe all the tech savvy experts here can chime in and propose something.
Thanks!

I have the exact same issue since yesterday... I already tried to clean the headphone jack with no effect so far.
I will unscrew the device and have a closer look at the headphone jack when I find time. Probably not today.

shadowseed said:
I have the exact same issue since yesterday... I already tried to clean the headphone jack with no effect so far.
I will unscrew the device and have a closer look at the headphone jack when I find time. Probably not today.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking of taking it to a local repair shop around here in the weekend. Whoever finds a solution first I guess. Also I have noticed this visi0nary. de/ ?p=30 (I can't post links yet). I think it looks similar

therealtry said:
I was thinking of taking it to a local repair shop around here in the weekend. Whoever finds a solution first I guess. Also I have noticed this visi0nary. de/ ?p=30 (I can't post links yet). I think it looks similar
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly it's not the same problem visi0nary describes on his blog. The Mass contact is fine.
I had the phone open for a few minutes and it seems like all contact wrap thight around the plug. I guess the problem is a broken soldered point at the back of the circuit board.
I had no time to remove the board completly and check the back.
Maybe you can ask your repair shop guy what he did to fix it? Thanks.

shadowseed said:
Sadly it's not the same problem visi0nary describes on his blog. The Mass contact is fine.
I had the phone open for a few minutes and it seems like all contact wrap thight around the plug. I guess the problem is a broken soldered point at the back of the circuit board.
I had no time to remove the board completly and check the back.
Maybe you can ask your repair shop guy what he did to fix it? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey shadowseed,
I took it to a couple of guys in downtown Athens and none said they wanna take a look at an Elephone. And these were techie Asian guys lol. Let me know if you find anything via pm or through here. Thanks. I'll keep looking myself otherwise I'll buy bluetooth headphones.

the problem with bluetooth headphones is that Elephone set the Bluetooth A2DP Bitpool to 35 (basically means compressed data = better range and quicker transfer rate ) which results in terrible sound quality over Bluetooth audio.
I'm not an audiophile but I can't listen to music over bluetooth in my car like I used to with my previous device, it sounds horrible.
This is a software issue but it can't be fixed with a root app or something like this, it's set in the bluetooth drivers. There is a setting under "Sounds & Notifications" called "Lossless BT-Mode", but it does nothing... or not enough, I'm not sure. The Bitpool needs to be raised to 52 or higher for "lossless" mp3 playback.
I wouldn't have bought this phone if I had known this...
UPDATE: I fixed it. This soldering point broke. I didn't solder it, I put a piece of cardboard under the circuit board which presses against the shell. I did this yesterday in the afternoon and used it multiple times since then, it seems to work great.

Put some solder on every point now. That fixed the problems for me, looked like there was no solder there.

Same on my phone >.< seems that the headphone jack has been horribly designed/built then!

The design is excellent, but there are multiple points with no solder on top, just glued or something. That can obviously not work in the long term.. The fix is very easy if you have a soldering iron, you don't need precision tools.

Hello
I have the same problem. I've bought it a few days ago (it has not one month).
What can I do? This phone is warranted?
Thanks,
Diego

shadowseed said:
the problem with bluetooth headphones is that Elephone set the Bluetooth A2DP Bitpool to 35 (basically means compressed data = better range and quicker transfer rate ) which results in terrible sound quality over Bluetooth audio.
I'm not an audiophile but I can't listen to music over bluetooth in my car like I used to with my previous device, it sounds horrible.
This is a software issue but it can't be fixed with a root app or something like this, it's set in the bluetooth drivers. There is a setting under "Sounds & Notifications" called "Lossless BT-Mode", but it does nothing... or not enough, I'm not sure. The Bitpool needs to be raised to 52 or higher for "lossless" mp3 playback.
I wouldn't have bought this phone if I had known this...
UPDATE: I fixed it. This soldering point broke. I didn't solder it, I put a piece of cardboard under the circuit board which presses against the shell. I did this yesterday in the afternoon and used it multiple times since then, it seems to work great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you please give us a detailed tutorial on how to open up the elephone?
I've tried it today (got the same problem) and failed on removing the white case from the fingerprint scanner.

You can see here: KlickKlack

I've tried soldering the points today and the connection seems more stable for now.
No more bzzing in idle when using headphones (Teufel Aureol), but the quality still sounds like some bad compressed mp3.
Pushing the plug (display frontfacing) to the back left seems to fix the problem.
I've tried putting cardboard between the 3.5mm port and the casing of the phone but no luck.
When using in-ears (some cheap philips) there is still a semi-loud bzzing in the backgroud and since the cable goes sideways there is no way of getting a stable connction.
Did I do faulty soldering or might I've broken the port with the soldering iron?
puu(.)sh/ltJDW/ea70467ca2.JPG - Image 1 (Note: I already resolded the point that seems unstable.)
puu(.)sh/ltJNx/08d0ead27a.JPG - Image 2

shadowseed said:
the problem with bluetooth headphones is that Elephone set the Bluetooth A2DP Bitpool to 35 (basically means compressed data = better range and quicker transfer rate ) which results in terrible sound quality over Bluetooth audio.
I'm not an audiophile but I can't listen to music over bluetooth in my car like I used to with my previous device, it sounds horrible.
This is a software issue but it can't be fixed with a root app or something like this, it's set in the bluetooth drivers. There is a setting under "Sounds & Notifications" called "Lossless BT-Mode", but it does nothing... or not enough, I'm not sure. The Bitpool needs to be raised to 52 or higher for "lossless" mp3 playback.
I wouldn't have bought this phone if I had known this...
UPDATE: I fixed it. This soldering point broke. I didn't solder it, I put a piece of cardboard under the circuit board which presses against the shell. I did this yesterday in the afternoon and used it multiple times since then, it seems to work great.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!!!

i'm in the business too, since two days, bought a bt dongle, with eragon rom no bad sound issue, but the asycronious in videos of sound and lips movement is bad, so i have to solder...i need an iron, tomorrow i will try, i hope i will fix it. what about warranty??
thanks for the solutions

I don't care much for warranty on a china phone...

I had the problem that the right in ear speaker didn't work but the left one was okay. But after some time even the left got worse and wasn't usable anymore.
Then I opened the Elephone and soldered the parts of the audio jack (like in the picture above).
It improved the audio quality but it still works only for the left speaker. How do I get both working?

schakalakka said:
I had the problem that the right in ear speaker didn't work but the left one was okay. But after some time even the left got worse and wasn't usable anymore.
Then I opened the Elephone and soldered the parts of the audio jack (like in the picture above).
It improved the audio quality but it still works only for the left speaker. How do I get both working?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm facing the same issue, soldered all the contacts and then only left is working.
Did you solve this?

Romeo76 said:
I'm facing the same issue, soldered all the contacts and then only left is working.
Did you solve this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately it is still the same.

Well looks like im sticking to bluetooth headphones, was hoping someone would confirm the soldering would fix it.

MTCB-HZC gets no love.

I have an XTRONS TD696A that came with Android 4.4.4. I upgraded it to 5.1, using Malaysk Roms and it operates great. Minor issues though is my DVD player no longer works. I'm not sure if it's the app that's missing, or something else. Also, i have the same MIC issues as the rest of them. I opened mine up to have a look at separating two microphones, 1 to codec, 1 to BT. But where some have C32 capacitor and C102. I seem to have a realtek chipset instead. I'm wondering if anyone had been able to do the modification on an hzc unit, and if so, where did they separate them. I will add pictures shortly. Any help on where I should be modding will be greatly appreciated, thanks!!!
*Edit* if anyone had the apk for the DVD player from the stock firmware could they please upload it, so I can see if that fixes my DVD not functioning problem.

Here are some pictures, more to come

The solder circled on the bottom right corner of the chip has continuity to the internal mic, as well as the BT mic+. It also seems to be connected to the external mic through the provided connector on the rear of the unit. The second picture is the same area just zoomed out.

NEXUS 4G said:
The solder circled on the bottom right corner of the chip has continuity to the internal mic, as well as the BT mic+. It also seems to be connected to the external mic through the provided connector on the rear of the unit. The second picture is the same area just zoomed out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this unit and did the mic mod by breaking the connection at the BT board and soldering a new external mic jack. I can't remember where the post was that I used as a guide. It was really simple though and phone calls seem to be crystal clear.
I will try to find the post.

Goose247 said:
I have this unit and did the mic mod by breaking the connection at the BT board and soldering a new external mic jack. I can't remember where the post was that I used as a guide. It was really simple though and phone calls seem to be crystal clear.
I will try to find the post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe you mean this post http://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/mtcb-hardware-development/kgl4-mic-mod-t3252424/page3
So you don't use your provided external mic Jack? How does the internal mic work for system operations?

NEXUS 4G said:
I believe you mean this post http://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/mtcb-hardware-development/kgl4-mic-mod-t3252424/page3
So you don't use your provided external mic Jack? How does the internal mic work for system operations?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wasn't that post but it method is more or less the same. To be honest I very rarely use it for system ops so can't really comment.

Goose247 said:
Wasn't that post but it method is more or less the same. To be honest I very rarely use it for system ops so can't really comment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll give it a shot. So you do not use the external mic connector that is provided with the unit???

NEXUS 4G said:
I'll give it a shot. So you do not use the external mic connector that is provided with the unit???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I soldered a new wire directly to the Bluetooth module and drilled a hole through the back plate for a new mic jack. I'll find the post as it had photos as well.

Goose247 said:
No, I soldered a new wire directly to the Bluetooth module and drilled a hole through the back plate for a new mic jack. I'll find the post as it had photos as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any luck?

NEXUS 4G said:
Any luck?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Still trying to find it. I did find one post but the images are missing now so not sure if it was the same one.

Will just Disconnecting The Front Mic Connection Fix the Issue?

I just bought a JY 2.73 Double Din unit and have the poor microphone quality issue for phone calls. I've seen threads about rerouting the external microphone wiring to connect to the internal microphone wiring. I understand this is done because the internal and external microphones are thought to interfere with each other.
My question is whether we can leave the external microphone connection as is (maybe add some shielding to it) but just cut the microphone connections between the bluetooth card and the main board. Can anyone say whether this worked for them?
Thanks,
Hish

hish747 said:
I just bought a JY 2.73 Double Din unit and have the poor microphone quality issue for phone calls. I've seen threads about rerouting the external microphone wiring to connect to the internal microphone wiring. I understand this is done because the internal and external microphones are thought to interfere with each other.
My question is whether we can leave the external microphone connection as is (maybe add some shielding to it) but just cut the microphone connections between the bluetooth card and the main board. Can anyone say whether this worked for them?
Thanks,
Hish
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Desoldering the internal mic worked well in my mtcd (as an option to remove a jumper or component was not an option) and for my mtcb, tracing the mic+ from the display board to the main board I was able to remove a jumper/zero ohm resistor. The latter is desirable as lowest noise option.

Would putting a small piece of tape on the internal mic hole not achieve the same?

Flavio said:
Would putting a small piece of tape on the internal mic hole not achieve the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No.

MTCD schematic

Found - MTCD Schematic. A most valuable find on russian android car audio forum and attached here.
[Android Car Audio]
The schematic corresponds to a GS Mainboard I have as a spare part. It varies to my JY board in terms of USB operation, with this board OTG is provided for.

This is ridiculously helpful, regardless of what MTCD manufacturer you have. I've had to replace MOSFET's and internally shorted caps in my KGL before, and having a general reference like this would have made the process so much quicker. Cheers!

MbTaNk16 said:
This is ridiculously helpful, regardless of what MTCD manufacturer you have. I've had to replace MOSFET's and internally shorted caps in my KGL before, and having a general reference like this would have made the process so much quicker. Cheers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed! I was astounded to find this. Unfortunately I still wasnt able to get my PX5 board to go into maskrom for OTG flashing, but is probably something I am not doing right. Schematic is absolutely valid and is spot on for MTCD GS.
18/07 - Was able to put PX5 into OTG [LOADER] mode after modifying board.

Thanks @cupi1234

marchnz said:
Anyone with a 4pda account - can you please try and download and attach here - http://4pda.ru/forum/dl/post/9567228/MTCD++Witson-A510-2016-04-28+V01.pdf
[MTCD Witson-A510-2016-04-28+V01.pdf - 4PDA]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
witson

Hi, does somebody knows the wiring of the PB76FSAP-S, an MTCD from Ownice (C500). I am trying to connect a OTS020 tpms to port F. The OTS020 has 4 wires, +, gnd, data and something else. I want to know how the unit supplies power and wich pins are used for data.
Thanks.

747 Driver said:
Hi, does somebody knows the wiring of the PB76FSAP-S, an MTCD from Ownice (C500). I am trying to connect a OTS020 tpms to port F. The OTS020 has 4 wires, +, gnd, data and something else. I want to know how the unit supplies power and wich pins are used for data.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Ownice C500 is not an MTCD unit. Ownice dont make MTCD units, their units are of an entirely different design with totally incompatible software.

Source for Raw Audio Output?
Looking at this schematic on page 10, it appears that the section labeled 'ARM' would be the interface connector from the Android board to the MCU Board.
Following @dazza007 's and @7floor 's posts below, it looks like the raw audio output from the Android Board is available at pins 12 and 13. Without a schematic of the Android Board I can't be sure, but I assume that these should trace back to pins 12 and 13 from the WM8731 Audio Codec chip.
If I'm correct and we could harness these raw line level audio outputs it could give the people that were looking for a clean feed for DSP's and the like.
Full disclosure, I do not have one of these units yet but am looking at a GCS Apex branded unit that appears to be a MTCD KLD model per the merchant website pictures. http://www.subispeed.com/2013-crosstrek/interior/audio-stereo-upgrades/gcs-apex-android-v2-head-unit-w-gps-2013-2016-forester-crosstrek#.WgRiFFuPLIU
dazz007
https://forum.xda-developers.com/android-auto/mtcb-hardware-development/mtc-sound-controlling-bd37xxx-sound-t3234660
7floor
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=63520630

typos1 said:
The Ownice C500 is not an MTCD unit. Ownice dont make MTCD units, their units are of an entirely different design with totally incompatible software.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please enlighten me. It says MTCD in the settings, I have a GS v 2.56 running.
What type of unit is it? According Xtrons it is a PB-76FSFAP-S. What type is it (MCT/B/C/D/E?)
Thanks

747 Driver said:
Please enlighten me. It says MTCD in the settings, I have a GS v 2.56 running.
What type of unit is it? According Xtrons it is a PB-76FSFAP-S. What type is it (MCT/B/C/D/E?)
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it says "MTCD GS" in the MCU field then you have a GS MCD unit.
Xtrons are simply resellers - they buy units from various manufacturers and then give them made up model numbers.
Ownice are an entirely different company that make entirley different units.

i have a GS PX5 Android 6.0 ( now migrated to Oreo) unit, i'd like to know if this board have USB OTG port.
I need to connect a USB/SPDIF Converter , the Matrix X-SPDIF2, and it is Android 8 certified for USB OTG port.

PX5 MX2 Unit No RESET
Hey guys,
I'm half offtopic here, but my thing has to do with the schematics / HW mod (can't open topics due to low post count..)
Just recently bought a replacement for my Opel Astra J '12 and ..
It's a MX PX5 4GB Oreo sold by Witson.
This HU is very specific, because it comes in two parts.
1. Silverbox with the MCU and sockets + 2. Display board with SD slot
My point writing here is, that it doesn't have a reset hole - Oh well yea it has, but behind it there's nothing to push
Desperate as I am, I wanna have a reset button to enter recovery and .. well - if it gets stuck, to recover.
As the silverbox will be behind the dash, my only option would be the display board, where I found two connectors having a PIN def for RST_KEY and now I need instructions how to do the cabling, as I'm not sure how to achieve the reset function.
RST_KEY + GND ?
OTG? Found a little connecter not having a corresponding plug (white 8PIN in IMG_2613)
-> Pictures
abload.de/gallery.php?key=sNOKaV7R
Would be cool if you guys help me out
BR X

Hey Xorit,
I guess you've got the v5754 unit.
The reset line won't help you for recovery, I tried the same and reset is only a hard reset.
I've soldered a cable to key1, gnd and led8v on the display part (under the back cover), put a plug on the end and placed it in the glove department.
I then made a small pcb with a tactile switch connecting key1 - gnd and a 12v led on led8v and gnd, with this you'll be able to enter recovery by holding the button until the led flashes 3 times and then stays on,
Releasing it for a second and the keep on pressing, releasing, pressing for a couple of times.
I'm not sure if you're able to flash any custom rom because the sd slot on these units is a USB converted and not a gps slot.
Btw. I flashed mine with a custom rom by extracting the board, placing it in a xtrons model and then puting it back.

Thanks for that super helpful post!
Just ordered the needed components
Yep, indeed the V5754.
Dunno why they didnt wire any of those support keys.
Thanks mate!
bunnymc said:
Hey Xorit,
I guess you've got the v5754 unit.
The reset line won't help you for recovery, I tried the same and reset is only a hard reset.
I've soldered a cable to key1, gnd and led8v on the display part (under the back cover), put a plug on the end and placed it in the glove department.
I then made a small pcb with a tactile switch connecting key1 - gnd and a 12v led on led8v and gnd, with this you'll be able to enter recovery by holding the button until the led flashes 3 times and then stays on,
Releasing it for a second and the keep on pressing, releasing, pressing for a couple of times.
I'm not sure if you're able to flash any custom rom because the sd slot on these units is a USB converted and not a gps slot.
Btw. I flashed mine with a custom rom by extracting the board, placing it in a xtrons model and then puting it back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

got it working with ur directions!
the button mutes on single press, so it might be possible that the mute button on the steering wheel will do the same..would be weird tho.
might be helpfull for those who have no reset button either!
that new button selects options on single press in recovery and activates on long press, just like the normal reset hole.
->
on the display board you have two flat flexi cable connectors (not in use), where there are pin outs for usb + led + 2 keys.
thanks again!

Hey i have one Question. It says u can Solder it directly to the SOM or with a Flexible flat Cable. I have on my Unit the SOM and this is connectet to the Bigger Board. On this Bigger board i have 2 Flat Flex Connectors. Can i use them for this method?! And if yes wich one is the Right flat connector and where to get a flexible Band cable!? Would help me much if someone helps me because i have done the USB OTG Cable mod and now i have no Recovery and no USB anymore so i can not flash anything. I tried flashing in Android an MCU update but it does not do. Downloaded all to the units internal storage.
Greetz Tom

Nice I'm glad that it did the trick for you
The mute button from your steering wheel won't work because it's connected via canbus (same as cd3/4/600 button panel).
The mute from the soldered button is just a setting in the firmware (you could change it with the steering wheel button assignment settings to whatever you want.
I also added 2 more tactile switches to the key1 line with different resistors (resistor ladder) to be able to use them as hardware buttons (e.g. Vol up/down and power) but haven't had the chance to test it yet.
Xorit said:
got it working with ur directions!
the button mutes on single press, so it might be possible that the mute button on the steering wheel will do the same..would be weird tho.
might be helpfull for those who have no reset button either!
that new button selects options on single press in recovery and activates on long press, just like the normal reset hole.
->
on the display board you have two flat flexi cable connectors (not in use), where there are pin outs for usb + led + 2 keys.
thanks again!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Still in the wrong forum !!

typos1 said:
Still in the wrong forum !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I reported - post gone.

Electrical noise?

I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy

dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

I have exactly same problem. But when the colors on LCD screen black : electrical noise increases. Any other color : electrical noise decreases. I will check groundings of unit in this weekend. I ll write here if i find out anything.

stinger4321 said:
dirty power maybe? did you connect a chassis ground for the 0v on the unit.. my harness came with a ground with ring terminal..
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It shouldn't be dirty power as it connects into the factory loom. I'll take it out at weekend and see if grounding the chassis of the head unit to the car does anything.
Andy

I had this problem on my ksp. Ultimately I found opamps under the sound processor with dirty ground on the feedback resistors. I substituted resistors to the processor board ground header lead. Now all I hear is my fan.

I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy

ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.

iRcKenny said:
Try grounding the PX5 board heatsink with the unit chassis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy

ADB100 said:
I had the same noise issue when the PX3 board was installed and this has a much smaller heatsink than the PX5?
I'll give it a shot but its a bit more involved than just taking the unit out of the car though...
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, you also have that noise before upgrading the core board, have you any chance to temporaly install another common radio like low budget Pionner, Alpine or similar? If yes check if the noise persist; some TT owners with noise from speakers said that the cause is the factory amplifier.
Have luck!

i have heard that the problem may be from the antenna, try getting a noise filter for the antenna

Record the noise with a video. Some quiet electrical noise is common, but we're talking almost silent and only when no music is playing at all.

ADB100 said:
I took the head unit out last weekend and tried earthing the chassis to the car and it made no difference - you can still hear the feint pops and hiss (all I can think to describe it is radio interference?). I also noticed that it gets worse when the cars lights are on and the head unit backlights come on (via CANBUS telling it I assume?).
It is a MTCD GS unit and has an external 'dongle' that is covered with heatshrink that is inline with the audio outputs. This has something to do with the level of the audio out - however I am just guessing here TBH.
Any other ideas how to eliminate this noise?
Cheers
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same thing on my A3 and although it doesn’t really bother me I’d be interested to see if someone finds a fix. On the A3’s it only affects the ones with Bose.
All my cabling is exactly the same as yours aswell.
I once emailed a company that sells the factory Bose amps for the audis and reconditions them and the bloke said that the signal sent to the Bose amp from the aftermarket headunit is different to the signal that is sent from the factory unit so I’d guess it’s something to do with that.
In regards to the dongle thing in heatshrink, that is a little board with a plug on it that the audio cables plug into. My speakers stopped working so I cut that open once and the connector had become unplugged inside. I think it’s there because the blue amp cable is connected through it aswell which is supposed to be for the amp to turn it on and that blue cable never used to be there on the older model units.

I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.

checksum123 said:
I have the same issue on my brand new dasaita 10.2 inch px5 android 8. Connected through RCA to my amp.
I will do some troubleshooting and see if I can figure it out.
BTW, there is a very loud static noise when my bluetooth is connected to my phone, I emailed dasaita about that particular issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same unit with the same issues. Hot Audio sent me a replacement bluetooth module to solder in. That fixed the bluetooth noise. I still have slight background hiss all the time.

could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665

I have an equal problem with my eonon px3 7.1, which is then klyde. Light rustling always constant, then when I register with the front usb camera the noise is much higher and seems a squeak of mouse .. I changed mb sent by them but the problem remains, even connecting the ground to the chassis of the car. Quache solution please guys, I'm going crazy.

gwaitsi said:
could you guys please take a look at my issue which includes electrical noise - even when radio is off.
e.g.
- downloading maps on Sygic, there is a clicking that goes with the increase in % of the download.
- browsing the menu and / or selecting apps has a varying noise
Interestingly, the rear-camera power seems unstable as does the GPS.
I also noted, that i couldn't power the unit on the bench via the vw quadlock connector, i had to use the white connector.
Makes me wonder if there is some general grounding problem that is the problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...droid-8-px5-mtcelmv2-881-vw-multiple-t3884665
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ADB100 said:
I have a MTCD GS unit for an Audi TT and I get a feint electrical noise constantly through the cars speakers. If you have music or the radio on it is not too noticable but otherwise it is really obvious. It is definitely the unit as it isn't there with the stock head unit and if you hard reset the GS unit with the reset button whilst it is running it immediately goes away until the unit has booted. It was originally supplied with a RK3188/PX3 board running Android 5.0. I have since replaced the board with a PX5 board and have upgraded it to Android 8.0 (Malaysk). I isn't a software issue and is down to the hardware (I think...).
I have tried disabling WiFi and BlueTooth - although I don't think BlueTooth can be disabled as its not a native Android component of the system - and the noise remains. It is a feint pop and hiss noise that I think is an earth/grounding issue. I was going to replace the cable that goes to the WiFi antenna on the rear socket as this looks flimsy, however I am not sure it will make a difference.
Any ideas?
Andy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.

jerrymh said:
I have the same isue, almost gone when changed the poor quality antenna from the WIFI (used a 9DB antenna)
Pick one from amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GDCLVPJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can try to purchase a extension canble an antenna and put away from the unit and the engine.
In my case the pops and hiss almos gone and are barely noticiable.
The qualty of the original antenna is horrible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?

gwaitsi said:
by that token, simply turning off the wifi would prove it no?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You would think so wouldn't you?
I have a couple of spare SMA WiFi antennas that I can try. If I get some time later today I'll try and get the head unit out of the dash and try them. I'll post whether it makes any difference (the spare antenna I have might also be crap though...).
Andy

What I found helped is that I put some ferrite beads on the power cables to the headunit and the speaker cables from the unit. It hasn’t totally removed the issue but it is certainly better and I haven’t lost any sound quality(if anything it’s slightly better as there’s less interference).