New screen causing issues - Nexus 7 (2013) Q&A

I got a screen of ebay and put it in, and when I try to boot, nothing shows up. I plugged it into my windows pc and it showed up as the dreaded "qualcomm hs usb qdloader 9008"
I was a bit freaked out and tried everything, and it turns out that the new screen is causing the temporary brick. When I unplugged the screen, the tablet booted up immediately and I could access adb and get a preview of the screen. I only unplugged the digitizer and LCD, not the LCD cable. Is this a faulty screen or something else?

Can you check if it boots with the backlight plug disconnected?
While at it, examine the nearby backlight converter's components for visible signs of failure. Only the converter could bring down entire N7.

k23m said:
Can you check if it boots with the backlight plug disconnected?
While at it, examine the nearby backlight converter's components for visible signs of failure. Only the converter could bring down entire N7.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I will give it a shot today.

k23m said:
Can you check if it boots with the backlight plug disconnected?
While at it, examine the nearby backlight converter's components for visible signs of failure. Only the converter could bring down entire N7.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unplugged backlight and it still shows up as qualcomm download mode, and I shined a flashlight into the screen and still no image.

ethanchow said:
Unplugged backlight and it still shows up as qualcomm download mode, and I shined a flashlight into the screen and still no image.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It looks like you have another N7 and if so, you could do a screen swap to confirm the issue. Also, while off, measure resistance on power track (att.) to the ground. If it differs significantly from the working N7 then you will have additional confirmation.

k23m said:
It looks like you have another N7 and if so, you could do a screen swap to confirm the issue. Also, while off, measure resistance on power track (att.) to the ground. If it differs significantly from the working N7 then you will have additional confirmation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately I don't have another nexus7 to test, that logic board I asked about is the same one . What resistance should I expect?

k23m said:
It looks like you have another N7 and if so, you could do a screen swap to confirm the issue. Also, while off, measure resistance on power track (att.) to the ground. If it differs significantly from the working N7 then you will have additional confirmation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got 13.74 M ohms measuring at the line you mentioned and using a daughterboard screw hole as ground.

ethanchow said:
Unfortunately I don't have another nexus7 to test, that logic board I asked about is the same one . What resistance should I expect?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A power line like that should be in kOhm range when OK and in Ohms when faulty.
ethanchow said:
I got 13.74 M ohms measuring at the line you mentioned and using a daughterboard screw hole as ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does not seem right and is inconclusive. However, if you are absolutely sure that the mobo is OK then the display is faulty anyway.
Incidentally, on your photo I see damaged ferrite of the mobo's inductors used for voltage regulation and they are more worrisome than the red markings. Have you actually seen it working before or you are putting it together from untested eBay parts?

k23m said:
A power line like that should be in kOhm range when OK and in Ohms when faulty.
It does not seem right and is inconclusive. However, if you are absolutely sure that the mobo is OK then the display is faulty anyway.
Incidentally, on your photo I see damaged ferrite of the mobo's inductors used for voltage regulation and they are more worrisome than the red markings. Have you actually seen it working before or you are putting it together from untested eBay parts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It worked for a month or so before I cracked the screen.

ethanchow said:
It worked for a month or so before I cracked the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you are saying the voltage regulators are normally not chipped like that? I know the mobo is good, and I just ordered a new screen.

ethanchow said:
So you are saying the voltage regulators are normally not chipped like that? I know the mobo is good, and I just ordered a new screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, compare them with mine (att.). It probably happened from the pressure when the screen cracked. The inductors' impedance is now lowered but it may still be within operational tolerance. As there is no circuit diagram for our Nexus, it is hard to say if one of them is involved in power supply of the display.

k23m said:
Yes, compare them with mine (att.). It probably happened from the pressure when the screen cracked. The inductors' impedance is now lowered but it may still be within operational tolerance. As there is no circuit diagram for our Nexus, it is hard to say if one of them is involved in power supply of the display.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK. Thanks, is it feasible to replace the inductors? I have a half-decent soldering iron, but no hot air, although I plan to get one soon.

ethanchow said:
OK. Thanks, is it feasible to replace the inductors? I have a half-decent soldering iron, but no hot air, although I plan to get one soon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I measured a few things for you in my N7.
the inductors are not involved in the display's power supply because it is connected almost directly to the battery.
the resistance on display's power track is 220kOhm
Please make this easy test:
reconnect everything, including the display
measure battery voltage on pin #1 of the black plug/socket
turn it on and observe the battery's voltage
Has there been a significant voltage fluctuation during turning it on?

k23m said:
I measured a few things for you in my N7.
the inductors are not involved in the display's power supply because it is connected almost directly to the battery.
the resistance on display's power track is 220kOhm
Please make this easy test:
reconnect everything, including the display
measure battery voltage on pin #1 of the black plug/socket
turn it on and observe the battery's voltage
Has there been a significant voltage fluctuation during turning it on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, stays at 3.89-3.9 volts the whole time with both LCD and digitizer, but somehow it now boots successfully with the screen,no more qualcomm dl brick

ethanchow said:
Nope, stays at 3.89-3.9 volts the whole time with both LCD and digitizer, but somehow it now boots successfully with the screen,no more qualcomm dl brick
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's good news. I think your battery is weak or was undercharged before and it could not take the full load of mobo+lcd but it was good enough to boot without lcd.
:highfive:

k23m said:
It's good news. I think your battery is weak or was undercharged before and it could not take the full load of mobo+lcd but it was good enough to boot without lcd.
:highfive:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is still no backlight or image though. I just ordered another screen hopefully this one will fix everything.

k23m said:
It's good news. I think your battery is weak or was undercharged before and it could not take the full load of mobo+lcd but it was good enough to boot without lcd.
:highfive:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I booted up and it seems like no image/backlight is the only problem now, the digitizer works, but there is still no image. Could it be just be a faulty LCD cable? Like the orange one.

ethanchow said:
I booted up and it seems like no image/backlight is the only problem now, the digitizer works, but there is still no image. Could it be just be a faulty LCD cable? Like the orange one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could see cracks in the cable. Perhaps the local image/backlight voltage regulator is finally gone and no longer overloading entire N7.

k23m said:
You could see cracks in the cable. Perhaps the local image/backlight voltage regulator is finally gone and no longer overloading entire N7.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The cable looks fine, but I haven't got to testing every pin. What do you mean by local image regulator being "gone"

ethanchow said:
What do you mean by local image regulator being "gone"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Note the inductors on LCD PCB; 2 of them are used for image/matrix IC power supply regulators and the larger one is for step-up backlight voltage converter. It seems one of the ICs next to the inductors (the converter most likely) is faulty. Initially it was overloading the battery and resulting in the 9008 mode, but eventually it burnt out when you fully recharged the battery.

Related

[Q] DHD booting, but no display activity. How to repair?

Hi all. In need of a bit of advice here. Hope this is in the right forum.
My beloved DHD has suffered from one too many falls. Despite being protected in an Otterbox Commuter case, he now lies on his deathbed. Even though I was considering an upgrade, I'm thinking I might want to stretch out his life for as long as possible instead. So I've come here to ask for repair advice.
- The phone seems structurally sound from the outside, no damage besides minor aesthetic scratches from before the phone was protected by the Otterbox.
- It appears to boot. Makes the vibration noise etc. Heck the alarm even went off the other morning, at the set time of 0630.
- Screen does not function at all. Lifeless. But not broken in any way externally. Because of this, had to pull the battery to shut the alarm off.
- When plugged in to charge, charging light indicator does not illuminate.
Any ideas?
Sent from my nipple running windows 95 NT.
Cheers, although I'm gonna try a different approach for now.
Any ideas? Can anyone point me in the right direction of some advice?
Sounds like 2 things. Broken lcd and a broken charging port. It wouldn't be worth repairing. You could buy one second hand on ebay for aboot £120.
Sent from my nipple running windows 95 NT.
Thanks for that. Considering trying to sell it broken, for parts. Only thing that concerns me is any sensitive data that may be readily accessed by someone who knows how to get to it.
Is there a way to wipe it?
You could use another dhd with the same firmware and copy the key/button presses and reset it in bootloader mode.
Sent from my laser emitting mammary glands.
Could also be that the connector for the screen has been dislodged due to being drop to many times you mite try opening it up and see if it is that.
lincolnep said:
Could also be that the connector for the screen has been dislodged due to being drop to many times you mite try opening it up and see if it is that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, thanks for the response. So I assume you're referring to this part here?
http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-desire-hd-lcd-screen-fpc-connector/
Seen in this disassembly video from the 3:05 minute mark?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfatoeWbMRk
bump...
I have a problem similar to yours. But in my case, I'd turned the phone off to go to the cinema and the LCD and touch never turned on again.
In order to erase your data, did you try overwriting a stock rom? (In case it's just the charging LED that is broken)
That sucks! Self detonating phone. Does yours still vibrate and 'turn on'?
Haven't actually managed to clear the data. I'm ordering this part here (http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-desire-hd-lcd-screen-fpc-connector/) and I'm going to attempt to pull it apart and fix it.
If I can get it to work again I'll sell the One V I'm using and go back to the old faithful!
Well this saves me from starting a new thread haha
Anyway i am having the exact same problem as you have.
My dad brought home a Desire HD from work wich was not working so i am trying to fix it.
The phone boots, it vibrates ones and after a minute it makes the boot sound.
But nothing responses and the lights wont turn on.
Also no charging light..
Also it does not charge but usb does connect.
Could this be the FPC connector or the screen?
Hmmm...interesting, exact same issue as mine.
Well, I've ordered the FPC connector replacement part I linked above...going to attempt to play around with it when it arrives and see if I can breathe new life into the phone. So I can tell you how that goes...
Although:
1. Would the charging light and screen problem be connected? Is this feasible? Or does it suggest something else is likely shot?
2. I believe the FPC connector requires a solder to replace. This could be a bit ambitious on my part to attempt to repair...any ideas on what sort of a solder would be suitable?
Sent from my HTC One V using xda premium
suitup said:
Hmmm...interesting, exact same issue as mine.
Well, I've ordered the FPC connector replacement part I linked above...going to attempt to play around with it when it arrives and see if I can breathe new life into the phone. So I can tell you how that goes...
Although:
1. Would the charging light and screen problem be connected? Is this feasible? Or does it suggest something else is likely shot?
2. I believe the FPC connector requires a solder to replace. This could be a bit ambitious on my part to attempt to repair...any ideas on what sort of a solder would be suitable?
Sent from my HTC One V using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no clean flux core solder would work best, preferably something very thin (about .015"). A small bottle of noclean flux would also help and you probably will need lead free solder as that is likely what they used on the board to begin with, and lead and leadfree dont typically mix as well.
Thanks for the quick reply...
Something like this?
http://www.oritech.com.au/productDetail.aspx?productID=23244
What sort of iron would be suited? Would any of these suit?
http://www.oritech.com.au/categories.aspx?categoryID=321
Would you say it'd be a difficult process? I've soldered before, but a that was a while ago in high school...
Also the cost of all this equipment will far outweigh the cost of the $3 FPC connector spare!
suitup said:
Thanks for the quick reply...
Something like this?
http://www.oritech.com.au/productDetail.aspx?productID=23244
What sort of iron would be suited? Would any of these suit?
http://www.oritech.com.au/categories.aspx?categoryID=321
Would you say it'd be a difficult process? I've soldered before, but a that was a while ago in high school...
Also the cost of all this equipment will far outweigh the cost of the $3 FPC connector spare!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes, those should both work fine. ya it is costly for equipment. i have a edsyn iron i use at home and solder i get from work. i would say it can be tricky, i havent seen the connector but im sure its similar to other inline ribbon connectors. remember, short burst soldering, heating it for too long will take the pad off the pcb, and repairing THAT can become very difficult.
suitup said:
Hmmm...interesting, exact same issue as mine.
Well, I've ordered the FPC connector replacement part I linked above...going to attempt to play around with it when it arrives and see if I can breathe new life into the phone. So I can tell you how that goes...
Although:
1. Would the charging light and screen problem be connected? Is this feasible? Or does it suggest something else is likely shot?
2. I believe the FPC connector requires a solder to replace. This could be a bit ambitious on my part to attempt to repair...any ideas on what sort of a solder would be suitable?
Sent from my HTC One V using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. We have a spare DHD with broken glass here wich my sister is using unter her SGS is back from repair. Will swap the motherboard when her phone is back.
Sent from my HTC Vision using xda premium

Which replacement screen (Sharp, sony acer)

ok so... the store broke my lcd while they were trying to remove the digitizer... and now i am looking at ebay on which lcd+touch assemlby to buy and i have a question. are the sony, acer and sharp lcd versions compatible with all one x mobos? i did some research and found that the sony version is the best (so they say)
and313 said:
ok so... the store broke my lcd while they were trying to remove the digitizer... and now i am looking at ebay on which lcd+touch assemlby to buy and i have a question. are the sony, acer and sharp lcd versions compatible with all one x mobos? i did some research and found that the sony version is the best (so they say)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
The Sony and Sharp are not compatible with each other( I've tried to replace one with the other), I've never come across the Acer LCD in Australia so I'm not sure. If you don't know how to tell the Sharp and Sony apart, the Sharp has Green backing on the flex cable, while the Sony is sort of orange with a few yellowish stripeson the back of the LCD flex cable. Sorry I couldn't find any of my photos which show the difference. I would recommend buying the LCD/digitizer combo and a separate midframe to mount it on, as it comes with new 3M adhesive, but you may also have to add a few TINY drops of instant adhesive, I say tiny as too much will press out under the digitizer and will show up, but I have found that without it the digitizer will lift from the frame eventually due to the tight fit of the frame in the rear shell of the HOX.
Hope you go ok!
---------- Post added at 06:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:41 PM ----------
Sorry, just a bit of additional info, have also come across posts saying the colours of the LCD look washed out with the wrong LCD.
okhughes said:
Hi,
The Sony and Sharp are not compatible with each other( I've tried to replace one with the other), I've never come across the Acer LCD in Australia so I'm not sure. If you don't know how to tell the Sharp and Sony apart, the Sharp has Green backing on the flex cable, while the Sony is sort of orange with a few yellowish stripeson the back of the LCD flex cable. Sorry I couldn't find any of my photos which show the difference. I would recommend buying the LCD/digitizer combo and a separate midframe to mount it on, as it comes with new 3M adhesive, but you may also have to add a few TINY drops of instant adhesive, I say tiny as too much will press out under the digitizer and will show up, but I have found that without it the digitizer will lift from the frame eventually due to the tight fit of the frame in the rear shell of the HOX.
Hope you go ok!
---------- Post added at 06:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:41 PM ----------
Sorry, just a bit of additional info, have also come across posts saying the colours of the LCD look washed out with the wrong LCD.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok tnx for the info... and i was thinking i can just order whatever. i checked the panel_type in the last_kmsg and i found that i have the replacement screen for which nobody knows who makes it. but it is a warm panel so it probably is sony... but i have to rip it apart to be certain
Sent from my One X using Tapatalk
and313 said:
ok tnx for the info... and i was thinking i can just order whatever. i checked the panel_type in the last_kmsg and i found that i have the replacement screen for which nobody knows who makes it. but it is a warm panel so it probably is sony... but i have to rip it apart to be certain
Sent from my One X using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the only downside - having to pull phone apart to check which one you have. Also another tip, phone need to be on to change LCD's, boot phone up with it apart, then wake up with power button on old screen, then sleep with power button, change screens then wake up again. There are plenty of vids on youtube to help, if new screen doesn't activate, check flex cable is in square and all the way - have had this problem before also.
okhughes said:
That's the only downside - having to pull phone apart to check which one you have. Also another tip, phone need to be on to change LCD's, boot phone up with it apart, then wake up with power button on old screen, then sleep with power button, change screens then wake up again. There are plenty of vids on youtube to help, if new screen doesn't activate, check flex cable is in square and all the way - have had this problem before also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tnx... you answered all i was wondering about really appreciated
edit: ok so i riped it apart again and its a sony. for anyone who is wondering what might happen if the wrong screen is attached to the mobo watch this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHdtgu4rbxI
and the store said: why you dont just buy the "original" for 40€.... god i hate such people
Sent from my One X using Tapatalk
okhughes said:
That's the only downside - having to pull phone apart to check which one you have. Also another tip, phone need to be on to change LCD's, boot phone up with it apart, then wake up with power button on old screen, then sleep with power button, change screens then wake up again. There are plenty of vids on youtube to help, if new screen doesn't activate, check flex cable is in square and all the way - have had this problem before also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I replaced my screen, but I powered down when removing the screen, and putting the replacement in. Now neither will light up. How do you solve this?
There are no guarantees with this, but try pulling the battery out for a minute or two. then with the original screen in, boot up and let it get to the lock screen wait for the screen to sleep then press power button to wake up then again to sleep. when the screen is sleeping try changing over the screens and then press power button to wake again. this is assuming that the screen displays on startup, but even if it doesn't try this process anyway. if it doesn't work, try doing with the new screen back to the old screen after pulling the battery. I have only ever come across this once, but it wasn't from powering down during a screen change, but pulling the battery seemed to fix it.
okhughes said:
There are no guarantees with this, but try pulling the battery out for a minute or two. then with the original screen in, boot up and let it get to the lock screen wait for the screen to sleep then press power button to wake up then again to sleep. when the screen is sleeping try changing over the screens and then press power button to wake again. this is assuming that the screen displays on startup, but even if it doesn't try this process anyway. if it doesn't work, try doing with the new screen back to the old screen after pulling the battery. I have only ever come across this once, but it wasn't from powering down during a screen change, but pulling the battery seemed to fix it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried that, didn't work. I think I know the problem now. after searching on multiple forums, I think it's the 220 coil. A lot of people have had a similar issue, and they say they've solved it by replacing the coil. What I want to know is, how I managed to short the coil in the span of a few minutes, despite having used the same screen as the cracked one.
It is possible to do, although they can go for no reason, I recommend taking it somewhere to get coil replaced, it is a very fiddly job and you need to have a steady hand and the right tools (hot air gun) although my father managed to do one with a standard soldering iron, although it wasn't the best job. you risk damaging other components also if they blow off the mainboard (if you can find them), worst case scenario is the display ic has gone - that one will have to be done by a professional.
what a sh!t phone
we tried to repare it 2 years ago.
but failed.
so i just the pieces to gether wanted to see if i can fix it.
still not lcd just touchscreen (and now im not sure if i even have touchscreen lol maybe i broke that to now not sure
anyway sucks i have a brand new lcd touchscreen with frame we bought back then. and its even the right screen a green flex cable like the original one and still noting so i guess i broke the 220 chip thing how dont know. but not sure if i can replace it sucks it was a good phone
is there any help a easy fix? or do i really need to soldern that chip i cant sell the phone since there is personal data on it contacts and pictures (i guess dont remembrer)
It may still be replaceable, if it's been sitting for 2 headed is the phone taking a charge? It needs to be on to change the screen. If it is charging and booting up, and the screen still won't work when being changed try doing a hard reset by holding the power and volume down button until it restarts - have had advice by someone who repairs phones for a living that this should reset what the phone is looking at for hardware and you should be able to do screen replacement. Failing that chances are it's going to be dead. Not much point in selling it these days as they aren't worth much these days. If the phone won't start the battery may be dead flat. The phone needs some voltage to run its charging firmware, you can try to get it charging by leaving on charge for 10 min or more, even if no charge light, then hold power/vol up/vol down at the same time to recalibrate the charge circuit, it may start to charge after this.
Let me know how it goes, I wouldn't spend too much time on it, unless it's now a project..
okhughes said:
It may still be replaceable, if it's been sitting for 2 headed is the phone taking a charge? It needs to be on to change the screen. If it is charging and booting up, and the screen still won't work when being changed try doing a hard reset by holding the power and volume down button until it restarts - have had advice by someone who repairs phones for a living that this should reset what the phone is looking at for hardware and you should be able to do screen replacement. Failing that chances are it's going to be dead. Not much point in selling it these days as they aren't worth much these days. If the phone won't start the battery may be dead flat. The phone needs some voltage to run its charging firmware, you can try to get it charging by leaving on charge for 10 min or more, even if no charge light, then hold power/vol up/vol down at the same time to recalibrate the charge circuit, it may start to charge after this.
Let me know how it goes, I wouldn't spend too much time on it, unless it's now a project..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ow volum down? okay will try that. but i think i killed it lol cause the charging light wont come on anymore lol
it was just a idea that poped up in my head, that maybe i can save it so i friend can use it but i think i will just trow it away lol or something will give it a shot and see. will report back
nvm it's dead it wont even boot lol. i think i burned sometime lol that little cable that onder the battery thats conects the botem part with the other fliped out 2 time and 3time it smeled burned lol nvm
Sounds like it may have shorted, a replacement is fairly cheap , just depends on how serious you are about spending money on it.
I forgot to mention that when calibrating charge circuit with power/vol up/vol down all held down at the same time, they need to be held down for at least 2 minutes.
okhughes said:
Sounds like it may have shorted, a replacement is fairly cheap , just depends on how serious you are about spending money on it.
I forgot to mention that when calibrating charge circuit with power/vol up/vol down all held down at the same time, they need to be held down for at least 2 minutes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nvm i think i fried the cpu or something lol it wont turn on anymore.
i trew it in the bin
Probably the best result, it's probably cheaper to to buy a second hand one and also cause less aggravation when you can't work out why it won't work. You could always sell the replacement screen.
okhughes said:
Probably the best result, it's probably cheaper to to buy a second hand one and also cause less aggravation when you can't work out why it won't work. You could always sell the replacement screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
dont think i will sell it i mean who would buy it? lol but guess i could try for like 20euro or 10 lol.
and have 2 batteries for 10 or 5 euro lol
have 3 backcovers also 2 white and 1 black.
we bought every thing to repaire it but yeah.
could maybe sell some **** but pff dont knopw. (its my oncles old phone will ask him (maybe sell every thing exept de motherboard)
That's what I'd do, try and sell it for parts minus the mainboard. If that doesn't work, put it away somewhere and if you come across a dead one cheap, swap the mainboards out (providing it has the same screen - that's a given). Good luck with whatever you decide to do. :good:

Unit is working but screen is black - OFF

I have a KGL unit with RK3188 quad core CPU and 1024x600 screen.
I was working with custom ROM (made by Malaysk)
I didn't update anything recently.
Suddenly that morning, the screen is black.
I am able to hear the radio, and Bluetooth calls are being transferred through the unit, but the screen is totally black, zip, nada, nothing at all.
Any ideas what could get wrong?
I've had this happen before also. Do you see any boot logo at all?
Dave
I see nothing at all. Black all over the way.No logo
Sent from my A0001 using XDA-Developers mobile app
that is a hardware failure
contact yoru seller
unfortunately, the seller completely ignores my messages.
amir77a said:
unfortunately, the seller completely ignores my messages.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you tried to enter the recovery or it is shows black screen also?
If yes, maybe your display panel is wrong. If you seller ignore your messages, try to check your panel's contact to the board.
Check to see if you can get into recovery. If screen works, turn off lights when in rom. I had issue with auto brightness which was too low. Only way I could fix was to wipe and reinstall and turn off auto brightness.
Just updating... it was a hardware problem.
Flat cable problem + certain transistor.
Thanks for your comments.
How did you figure it out?
Dave
TT_Vert said:
How did you figure it out?
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The buttons were OK, I was able to listen to radio, switch stations (via the wheel control), and even BT calls went through.
That made me guess that this is a hardware problem, and not software.
and no matter what you did you never got video ? Ive got this same problem but after a hard reset Ill get the video back sometimes.
TT_Vert said:
and no matter what you did you never got video ? Ive got this same problem but after a hard reset Ill get the video back sometimes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, I even didn't try to hard reset the unit.
Took it from my technician, and it was working, without any hard reset.
To be precise, I'm going to visit him again tomorrow, since the colors on the screen are a bit on the green side, and a bit smeared.
Not a disaster, but not as it should be.
I guess one of the flat cables inside the unit, is not in its place.
amir77a said:
Actually, I even didn't try to hard reset the unit.
Took it from my technician, and it was working, without any hard reset.
To be precise, I'm going to visit him again tomorrow, since the colors on the screen are a bit on the green side, and a bit smeared.
Not a disaster, but not as it should be.
I guess one of the flat cables inside the unit, is not in its place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did the technician just reseat the cables or was something actually replaced?
jakejm79 said:
Did the technician just reseat the cables or was something actually replaced?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At first replcaed something... the second visit, probably things were a bit loosen up...
amir77a said:
At first replcaed something... the second visit, probably things were a bit loosen up...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any chance you could get details on what was replaced?
I had a similar issue - would lose screen output, it would go either black or white. Touch screen would still work, and radio/BT as well.
Then I'd disconnect the flat cable and reattach it, and it would work for a couple of days. Final solution (it seems) was to hold the flat cable with tape/hot glue!
Thank you, mine just went out again, it was fine for a month or so after reseating all the ribbon cables in the ZIF connectors, I'll do it again tomorrow and try securing them with some tape.
markinhosmrk said:
I had a similar issue - would lose screen output, it would go either black or white. Touch screen would still work, and radio/BT as well.
Then I'd disconnect the flat cable and reattach it, and it would work for a couple of days. Final solution (it seems) was to hold the flat cable with tape/hot glue!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did you reattach the flat cable with the radio on or off please help me because my head unit had became with black screen but the radio function normaly
Same symptoms here, any updates on what to look for? screen isn't even dim, touch works, sound works, it connects to my hotspot, but no visible screen, Witson PX5.
Which transistor ? I have a multimeter handy

How to charge your Galaxy Note 10+ in "low" temperatures

Hey all, I have had my Galaxy Note 10 for almost a year, and the other day I accidentally dropped it and ever since then I have been getting the message that my phone temperature is too low and that charging would resume when my phone returned to a normal temperature.
So I did some research and found that my phone's temperature sensor is broken and that I would need to get the wireless charging coil replaced as that is where the sensor is located. I also saw that it was a cheap repair and would be covered by warranty. Unfortunately because of the root it would not be covered by warranty and was actually very expensive as the part needed to be imported.
I ran a few tests and apparently my phone is at minus 30 degrees Celsius. When I got a report sensor, it says that it isn't even there. Clearly the sensor is broken. (Look at attached URLs for screenshots)
The strange thing is though, that I can still use my phone whilst it is plugged in. So obviously it can still use power, but not store it in the battery. Because it can still use power and since it is rooted, surely there is a way that I can change the minimum temperature at which the phone can charge? Or delete the piece of software/file that gives jt any limit at all?So I wanted to ask, since my phone is rooted, surely there must be a way I can "override" the error and charge my phone regardless.
So I looked for ways to charge my phone regardless and came across thermal throttling, which I know is dangerous, but surely because my phone isn't actually "low temperature" if it was well managed, it wouldn't be too unsafe? And would thermal throttling even work as I know that it helps to run your phone at HIGH temperatures, but what about low ones?
So the last thing I wanted to say was that with the phone being rooted, is there some app that can allow me to ignore this warning (override it) as there is obviously a file that prevents charging when the temperature is low. Could this file be altered/deleted, or could the while thing just be ignored. Or would thermal throttling work?
Please leave some feedback, anything is appreciated.
Also please link at the attached URLs for screenshots.
https:// we.tl/t-2EfEw150Y9
If that's the only temp sensor for charging you should have it as it won't shut it down if it gets too hot.
A Li meltdown isn't pretty.
Is the bad sensor in the battery???
If so simply replacing the battery might fix the issue
What is the problem?
blackhawk said:
If that's the only temp sensor for charging you should have it as it won't shut it down if it gets too hot.
A Li meltdown isn't pretty.
Is the bad sensor in the battery???
If so simply replacing the battery might fix the issue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The repair centre that I took this phone to said that the MOTHERBOARD was broken. I think they were mistaken as this is not a problem caused by broken motherboard. Research says the sensor is in the Wireless Charging Coil so I might try fix this. but then what is it about the battery? Which part is broken?
And in the meantime is their any way to override this message with a rooted phone (my original question)
It a thermistor on the wireless charging module or a bad connection going to it. A broken multilayered mobo solder trace can be repaired if it's just one trace and it's beginning/end point isn't under a flat pack.
https://youtu.be/b0__poRAZ94
Elaborate
blackhawk said:
It a thermistor on the wireless charging module or a bad connection going to it. A broken multilayered mobo solder trace can be repaired if it's just one trace and it's beginning/end point isn't under a flat pack.
So are you saying that either the connection (on the wireless charging COIL) from the coil to the battery is broken, or the connection port on the battery might be broken? Is it definitely NOT a motherboard issue?
If so does the wireless charging coil/entire phone battery need replacing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't see a listing under sensors for a internal batter sensor... it appears to be external.
I didn't tear it down.
The sensor or connector issue is more likely but not guaranteed.
You could take an ohmmeter to the sensor to check if it's the culprit. It appears to be on the charging coil assembly, right?
If so a cheap fix.
Sensor
Atie578 said:
blackhawk said:
It a thermistor on the wireless charging module or a bad connection going to it. A broken multilayered mobo solder trace can be repaired if it's just one trace and it's beginning/end point isn't under a flat pack.
So are you saying that either the connection (on the wireless charging COIL) from the coil to the battery is broken, or the connection port on the battery might be broken? Is it definitely NOT a motherboard issue?
If so does the wireless charging coil/entire phone battery need replacing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is only one sensor and its attached to the wireless charging coil, that was the case with the s7 edge back in the day. I see no reason why that would be different now. Its purpose is to monitor the battery and coil temps.
Replacing the wireless charging coil should fix it. You should be able to order one for pretty cheap. its could also just be a loose connection. If your warrenty is void then you might as well open it up (if you have the tools and skill) to confirm the wireless charging connector is seated properly into the motherboard. (since you dropped it, its likely its just come loose)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
vitselvarajah said:
Atie578 said:
There is only one sensor and its attached to the wireless charging coil, that was the case with the s7 edge back in the day. I see no reason why that would be different now. Its purpose is to monitor the battery and coil temps.
Replacing the wireless charging coil should fix it. You should be able to order one for pretty cheap. its could also just be a loose connection. If your warrenty is void then you might as well open it up (if you have the tools and skill) to confirm the wireless charging connector is seated properly into the motherboard. (since you dropped it, its likely its just come loose)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This could be true if the service tech was mistaken. All the OP knows for sure is the chipset isn't getting the temp data.
A good repair center -maybe- could do mobo level repairs. Sammy certainly could.
Remember no repairman likes an open box special.
The OP can try replacing the coil but maybe no better off if it needs a mobo. In the back of my mind I still wonder if the battery pack has a temp sensor the phone is using as well. I see no indication of that but it seems like a logical place for it especially given Samsung's history of exploding batteries.
If the OP goes for a battery replacement there's much more risk of damage involved.
Tough call.
Note: A high G impact can even break internal IC connections. A 3 foot drop onto concrete can generate sufficient G loading to do this. So there's that...
A good case spreads the G force loading over a greater timeframe and lessens it by absorbing some of the energy as well transforming it to heat.
These are heavy, expensive phones with very little impact protection. Get a good case like the Bolt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
blackhawk said:
If that's the only temp sensor for charging you should have it as it won't shut it down if it gets too hot.
A Li meltdown isn't pretty.
Is the bad sensor in the battery???
If so simply replacing the battery might fix the issue
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe the sensor is on the wireless charging coil
Guys had the issue back on the s8 too
TheMadScientist said:
I believe the sensor is on the wireless charging coil
Guys had the issue back on the s8 too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It be a happy ending if so...
and not the first time a repair tech was wrong.
Maybe the OP could try a better repair shop if they don't feel up to using a heat gun and popping off the back panel. This is one of the easiest repairs for these phones but still requires considerable care to do. Depends on the OP's skill level and having the minimum tools required.
blackhawk said:
It be a happy ending if so...
and not the first time a repair tech was wrong.
Maybe the OP could try a better repair shop if they don't feel up to using a heat gun and popping off the back panel. This is one of the easiest repairs for these phones but still requires considerable care to do. Depends on the OP's skill level and having the minimum tools required.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well said
Don't know if this will help but I have the same problem with my Note 10+. Mine has a cracked back cover and the faulty temp sensor issue seems to emanate from this because as soon as I slapped on a back cover, the issue resolved itself. I'll replace the back cover eventually but it seems the loose panel might be the issue.
Good luck.
Ritpide said:
Don't know if this will help but I have the same problem with my Note 10+. Mine has a cracked back cover and the faulty temp sensor issue seems to emanate from this because as soon as I slapped on a back cover, the issue resolved itself. I'll replace the back cover eventually but it seems the loose panel might be the issue.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Welcome to XDA
There's a temp sensor on the wireless charging coil assembly I believe. There are a bunch of ribbon cables as well, one could be loose or damaged.
Rear covers are cheap, replace it before the phone gets severely damaged. Get a rear cover seal too. Water kills phones.
Always keep the N10+ cased or it will get damaged. The Zizo Bolt is cheap, provides excellent drop protection and makes the N10+ easier to use.

Black screen with a lightning volt

Hi, i have a 610G if i recall corectly, was going to charge it, but it fell off my hands, maybe 2 feet high, nothing happened to the phone, screen didint break, but it didnt turn on anymore, i just have this black screen with a little lighning bolt inside a circle and it turns on and off, could go torecovery one time and i did a hard reset, didnt work, could go to download mode ones and flashed identicall firmware than the one installed, didnt work, keeps going on and off and its not charging, could it be that something hardware related could have broken? Any ideas?
Displaced connector, or damaged mobo or jack pcb.
blackhawk said:
Displaced connector, or damaged mobo or jack pcb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, no other choice but to open it up huh
skoopster said:
So, no other choice but to open it up huh
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Corrupted firmware is probably the last probable cause simply because you know it was dropped.
Unless the mobo or a chipset was damage by the G loading it normally won't effect the flash memory retention.
i guess your right, ill open it tomorrow, thanks

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